Chapter 11

The Wady Hamz--the Classical Ruin--Abá'l-Marú, the Mine of "Marwah"--Return to El-Wijh--Résumé of the Southern Journey.

Before describing the Palace of Sa'íd the Brave, I must devote a few lines to a notice of the Wady Hamz. The Wady Hamz, which has been mentioned as the southern frontier of Egyptian Midian, and the northern limit of the Ottoman Hejaz, is the most notable feature of its kind upon the North-Western Arabian shore. Yet Wallin has unjustifiably described and inscribed it "Wady Nejd," confusing it with a northern basin, whose mouth, the Salbah (Thalbah), we passed before reaching Sharm Dumayghah. He appears to identify it with the classical Wady el-Kura. Sprenger clean ignores the name, although he mentions its branches; and of course it is utterly neglected by the Hydrographic Chart. This main approach to the Arabian interior is not a fissure, like the vulgar Wadys, but rather an opening where the Gháts, or maritime chain, break to the north and south. Distant one long or two short marches from El-Wijh, its mouth is in north lat. 25° 55'; and it is said to head fifteen days inland, in fact beyond El-Medínah, towards which it curves with a south-easterly bend. It receives a multitude of important secondary valleys; amongst which is the Wady el-‘Uwaynid, universally so pronounced. I cannot help thinking that this is El-‘Aúníd of El-Mukaddasi, which El-Idrísí (erroneously?) throws into the sea opposite Nu'ma'n Island. If my conjecture prove true, we thus have a reason why this important line has been inexplicably neglected. Another branch is the Wady el-‘Is, Sprenger's "Al-‘Ys" (pp. 28, 29), which he calls "a valley in the Juhaynah country," and makes the northern boundary of that tribe.

Ethnologically considered, the lower Wady Hamz is now the southern boundary of the Balawíyyah (Baliyy country), and the northern limit of the Jahaníyyah, or Juhaynah-land: the latter is popularly described as stretching down coast to Wady Burmah, one march beyond Yambú' (?). Higher up it belongs to the Alaydán-‘Anezahs, under Shaykh Mutlak--these were the Bedawin who, during our stay at the port, brought their caravan to El-Wijh. Both tribes are unsafe, and they will wax worse as they go south. Yet there is no difficulty in travelling up the Hamz, at least for those who can afford time and money to engage the escort of Shaykh Mutlak. A delay of twelve days to a fortnight would be necessary, and common prudence would suggest the normal precaution of detaining, as hostage in the seaboard settlement, one of his Alaydán cousins. Water is to be found the whole way, and the usual provisions are to be bought at certain places.

The following notes upon the ruins of the Wady Hamz were supplied to me by the Baliyy Bedawin and the citizens of El-Wijh. Six stages up the lower valley, whose direction lies nearly north-east, lead to El-‘Ilá, Wallin's "Ela," which belongs to the ‘Anezah. Thence a short day, to the north with easting, places the traveller at Madáin (not Madyan nor Medínat) Sálih--"the cities of Sálih." The site is described to be somewhat off the main valley, which is here broken by a Nakb (?); and those who have visited both declared that it exactly resembles Nabathæan Magháir Shu'ayb in extensive ruins and in catacombs caverning the hill-sides.

Also called El-Hijr, it is made by Sprenger (p. 20) the capital of Thamuditis. This province was the head-quarters of the giant race termed the "Sons of Anak" (Joshua xi. 21); the Thamudeni and Thamudæ of Agatharkides and Diodorus; the Tamudæi of Pliny; the Thamyditæ of Ptolemy; and the Arabian Tamúd (Thamúd), who, extinct before the origin of El-Islam, occupied the seaboard between El-Muwaylah and El-Wijh. Their great centre was the plain El-Badá; and they were destroyed by a terrible sound from heaven, the Beth-Kol of the Hebrews, after sinfully slaughtering the miraculously produced camel of El-Sálih, the Righteous Prophet (Koran, cap. vii.). The exploration of "Sálih's cities" will be valuable if it lead to the collection of inscriptions sufficiently numerous to determine whether the Tamúd were Edomites, or kin to the Edomites; also which of the two races is the more ancient, the Horites of Idumæa or the Horites in El-Hijr.

And now to inspect the Gasr. The first sensation was one of surprise, of the mental state which gave rise to the Italian's--

"Dear Columns, what do you here? ‘Not knowing, can't say, Mynheer!'"

And this incongruous bit of Greece or Rome, in the Arabian wild, kept its mystery to the last: the more we looked at it, the less we could explain its presence. Not a line of inscription, not even a mason's mark--all dark as the grave; deaf-dumb as "the olden gods."

The site of the Gasr is in north lat. 25° 55' 15";[EN#70] and the centre of the Libn block bears from it 339° (mag.). It stands upon the very edge of its Wady's left bank, a clifflet some twenty-five feet high, sloping inland with the usual dark metal disposed upon loose yellow sand. Thus it commands a glorious view of the tree-grown valley, or rather valleys, beneath it; and of the picturesque peaks of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah in the background. The distance from the sea is now a little over three miles--in ancient days it may have been much less.

The condition of the digging proves that the remains have not long been opened: the Baliyy state less than half a century ago; but exactly when or by whom is apparently unknown to them. Before that time the locale must have shown a mere tumulus, a mound somewhat larger than the many which pimple the raised valley-bank behind the building. A wall is said to have projected above ground, as at Uriconium near the Wrekin.[EN#71] This may have suggested excavation, besides supplying material for the Bedawi cemetery to the south-west. The torrent waters have swept away the whole of the northern wall, and the treasure-seeker has left his mark upon the interior. Columns and pilasters and bevelled stones have been hurled into the Wady below; the large pavement-slabs have been torn up and tossed about to a chaos; and the restless drifting of the loose yellow Desert-sand will soon bury it again in oblivion. The result of all such ruthless ruining was simply null. The imaginative Nájí declared, it is true, that a stone dog had been found; but this animal went the way of the "iron fish," which all at El-Muwaylah asserted to have been dug up at El-Wijh--the latter place never having heard of it. Wallin (p. 316) was also told of a black dog which haunts the ruins of Karáyyá, and acts guardian to its hidden treasures. Years ago, when I visited the mouth of the Volta river on the Gold Coast, the negroes of Cape Coast Castle were pleased to report that I had unearthed a silver dog, at whose appearance my companion, Colonel de Ruvignes, and myself fell dead. But why always a dog? The "Palace" is a Roman building of pure style; whether temple or nymphæum, we had no means of ascertaining. The material is the Rughám or alabaster supplied by the Secondary formation; and this, as we saw, readily crumbles to a white powder when burnt. The people, who in such matters may be trusted, declare that the quarries are still open at Abú Makhárír, under the hills embosoming Abá'l-Marú. We should have been less surprised had the ruin been built of marble, which might have been transported from Egypt; but this careful and classical treatment of the common country stone, only added to the marvel.

It must have been a bright and brilliant bit of colouring in its best days--hence, possibly, the local tradition that the stone sweats oil. The whole building, from the pavement to the coping, notched to receive the roof-joists, is of alabaster, plain-white and streaked with ruddy, mauve, and dark bands, whose mottling gives the effect of marble. Perhaps in places the gypsum has been subjected to plutonic action; and we thought that the coloured was preferred to the clear for the bases of the columns. The exposed foundations of the eastern and western walls, where the torrent has washed away the northern enceinte, show that, after the fashion of ancient Egypt, sandstone slabs have been laid underground, the calcaire being reserved for the hypaethral part. The admirable hydraulic cement is here and there made to take the place of broken corners, and flaws have been remedied by carefully letting in small cubes of sound stone. There are also cramp-holes for metal which, of course, has been carried off by the Bedawin: the rusty stains suggest iron.

The building is square-shaped, as we see from the western wall, and it evidently faced eastward with 25° (mag.) of southing. This orientation, probably borrowed from the Jews, was not thoroughly adopted in Christendom till the early fifth century, when it became a mos. The southern wall, whose basement is perfect, shows everywhere a thickness of 0.95 centimetre, and a total length of 8 metres 30 centimetres. At 2 metres 87 centimetres from the south-western corner is a slightly raised surface, measuring in length 2 metres 15 centimetres. Mr. James Fergusson supposes that this projection, which directly fronts the eastern entrance, was the base of the niche intended for the image. On each side of the latter might have been a smaller colonette, which would account for the capital carried off by us to Egypt. Thus, adding 2 metres 87 centimetres for the northern end swept into the valley, we have a length of 7 metres 89 centimetres; and the additional half thickness of the east wall would bring it to a total of 8 metres 30 centimetres.

The shrine was not in antis, and the site hardly admits of a peristyle; besides which, excavations failed to find it. That it might have had a small external atrium is made probable by the peculiarity of the entrance. Two rounded pilasters, worked with the usual care inside, but left rough in other parts because they could not be seen, were engaged in the enceinte wall, measuring here, as elsewhere, 0.95 centimetre in thickness. Nothing remained of them but their bases, whose lower diameters were 0.95 centimetre, and the upper 0.65; the drums found elsewhere also measured 0.65. The interval between the lowest rings was 1 metre 63 centimetres; and this would give the measure of the doorway, here probably a parallelogram. Lying on the sand-slope to the north, a single capital showed signs of double brackets, although both have been broken off:[EN#72] the maximum diameter across the top was 0.60 centimetre, diminishing below to 0.50 and 0.44, whilst the height was 0.40. The encircling wall was probably adorned with pilasters measuring 0.62 centimetre below, 0.45 above, and 0.11 in height: they are not shown in the plan; and I leave experts to determine whether they supported the inside or the outside surface. Several stones, probably copings, are cut with three mortice-joints or joist-holes, each measuring 0.15 centimetre, at intervals of 0.14 to 0.15.

In the tossed and tumbled interior of this maison carrée the pavement-slabs, especially along the south-western side, appear in tolerable order and not much disturbed; whilst further east a long trench from north to south had been sunk by the treasure seeker. The breadth of the free passage is 1 metre 92 centimetres; and the disposal suggested an inner peristyle, forming an impluvium. Thus the cube could not have been a heroön or tomb. Four bases of columns, with a number of drums, lie in the heap of ruins, and in the torrent-bed six, of which we carried off four. They are much smaller than the pilasters of the entrance; the lower tori of the bases measure 0.60 centimetre in diameter, and 0.20 in height (to 0.90 and 0.25), while the drums are 0.45, instead of 0.65. It is an enormous apparatus to support what must have been a very light matter of a roof. The only specimen of a colonette-capital has an upper diameter of 0.26, a lower of 0.17, and a height of 0.16.

Although the Meccan Ka'bah is, as its name denotes, a "cube," this square alabaster box did not give the impression of being either Arab or Nabathæan. The work is far too curiously and conscientiously done; the bases and drums, as the sundries carried to Cairo prove, look rather as if turned by machinery than chiselled in the usual way. I could not but conjecture that it belongs to the days of such Roman invasions as that of Ælius Gallus. Strabo[EN#73] tells us of his unfortunate friend and companion, that, on the return march, after destroying Negrán[EN#74] (Pliny, vi. 32), he arrived at Egra or Hegra (El-‘Wijh), where he must have delayed some time before he could embark "as much of his army as could be saved," for the opposite African harbour, Myus Hormus. It is within the limits of probability that this historical personage[EN#75] might have built the Gasr, either for a shrine or for a nymphæum, a votive-offering to the Great Wady, which must have cheered his heart after so many days of "Desert country, with only a few watering-places." Perhaps an investigation of the ruins at Ras Kurkumah and the remains of Madáin Sálih may throw some light upon the mystery. In our travel this bit of classical temple was unique.

Mr. Fergusson, whose authority in such matters will not readily be disputed, calls the building a small shrine; and determines that it can hardly be a tomb, as it is hypæthral. The only similar temple known to him is that of "Soueideh" (Suwaydah), in the Haurán (De Vogüé, "Syrie Centrale," Plate IV.). The latter, which is Roman, and belonging to the days of Herod Augustus, has a peristyle here wanting: in other respects the resemblance is striking.

M. Lacaze photographed, under difficulties such as bad water and a most unpleasant drift of sand-dust, the interior of the building, the stones lying in the Wady below, and the various specimens which we carried off for the inspection of his Highness the Viceroy. Meanwhile we "pottered about," making small discoveries. The exposed foundations of the north-western wall, where the slabs of grit rest upon the sands of the cliff, afforded signs of man in the shape of a jaw-bone, with teeth apparently modern; and above it, in the terreplein, we dug down upwards of a yard, without any result beyond unearthing a fine black scorpion. The adjoining Arab graveyard, adorned with the mutilated spoils of the classical building, gave two imperfect skulls and four fragments. We opened one of the many mounds that lie behind the Gasr, showing where most probably stood the ruined town; and we found the interior traversed by a crumbling wall of cut alabaster--regular excavation may some day yield important results. A little to the south-west lies a kind of ossuary, a tumulus slightly raised above the wavy level, and showing a central pit choked with camels' bones: at least, we could find no other.

And here I was told the Arab legend by the Wakíl; who, openly deriding the Bedawi idea that the building could be a "Castle," opined that it was a Kanísah, a "Christian or pagan place of worship." Gurayyim Sa'íd, "Sa'íd the Brave," was an African slave, belonging to an Arab Shaykh whose name is forgotten. One day it so happened that a razzia came to plunder his lord, when the black, whose strength and stature were equal to his courage and, let us add, his appetite, did more than his duty. Thus he obtained as a reward the promise of a bride, his master's daughter. But when the day of danger was past, and the slave applied for the fair guerdon, the Shaykh traitorously refused to keep his word. The Brave, finding a fit opportunity, naturally enough carried off the girl to the mountains; solemnly thrashed every pursuing party; and, having established a "reign of terror," came to the banks of the Wady Hamz, and built the "Palace" for himself and his wife. But his love for butcher's-meat did not allow him to live happily ever after. As the land yielded little game, he took to sallying out every day and carrying off a camel, which in the evening he slew, and roasted, and ate, giving a small bit of it to his spouse. This extravagance of flesh-diet ended by scandalizing the whole country-side, till at last the owner of the plundered herds, Diyáb ibn Ghánim, one of the notables celebrated in the romance called Sírat Abu' Zayd,[EN#76] assembled his merry men, attacked the Gurayyim, and slew him. Wa' s' salám!

Here Egypt ends. We have done our work--

"And now the hills stretch home."

I must, however, beg the reader to tarry with me awhile. The next march to the north will show him what I verily believe to be the old gold-mine lying around El-Marwah. It acquires an especial interest from being the northernmost known to the mediaeval geographers.

El-Mukaddasi (vol. I. p. 101), in an article kindly copied by my friend, the Aulic Councillor, Alfred Von Kremer, says, "Between Yambú' and El-Marwah are mines of gold;" adding ("Itinerary," vol. i. p. 107) the following route directions: "And thou takest from El-Badr (‘the New Moon')[EN#77] to El-Yambú' two stages; thence to the Ras el-‘Ayn (?),[EN#78] one stage; again to the mine (subaudi, of gold), one stage; and, lastly, to El-Marwah, two stages. And thou takest from El-Badr to El-Jár[EN#79] one stage; thence to El-Jahfah (?), or to El-Yambu', two stages each. And thou takest from El-Jiddah (Jedda) to El-Jár, or to El-Surrayn (?), four stages each. And thou takest from El-Yasrib (Jatrippa or El-Medínah) to El-Suwaydíyyah (?), or to Batn el-Nakhil (?), two stages each; and from El-Suwaydíyyah to El-Marwah, an equal distance (i.e. four marches); and from the Batn el-Nakhil to the mine of silver, a similar distance. And if thou seek the Jáddat Misr,[EN#80] then take from El-Marwah to El-Sukyá[EN#81] (?), and thence to Badá Ya'kúb,[EN#82] three marches; and thence to El-‘Aúníd, one march." Hence Sprenger would place Zú'l-Marwah "four days from El-Hijr, on the western road to Medina;" alluding to the western (Syrian) road, now abandoned.

And now for our march. On the finest possible morning (April 9th), when the world was all ablaze with living light, I walked down the Wady Hamz. It has been abundantly supplied with water; in fact, the whole vein (thalweg) subtending the left bank would respond to tapping. The well El-Kusayr, just below the ruin, though at present closed, yielded till lately a large quantity: about half a mile to the westward is, or rather was, a saltish pit surrounded by four sweet. Almost all are now dry and filled up with fuel. A sharp trudge of three-quarters of an hour leads to the Bir el-Gurnah (Kurnah), the "Well of the Broad," in a district of the same name, lying between the ruin and the shore. It is a great gash in the sandy bed: the taste of the turbid produce is distinctly sulphurous; and my old white mule, being dainty in her drink, steadfastly refused to touch it. The distinct accents of the Red Sea told us that we were not more than a mile from its marge.

We then struck north-east, over the salt maritime plain, till we hit the lower course of the Wady Umm Gilifayn (Jilifayn). It heads from the seaward base of the neighbouring hills; and its mouth forms a Marsá, or "anchorage-place," for native craft. A little to the north stands the small pyramidal Tuwayyil el-Kibrít, the "little Sulphur Hill," which had been carefully examined by MM. Marie and Philipin. A slow ride of eight miles placed us in a safe gorge draining a dull-looking, unpromising block. Here we at once found, and found in situ for the first time, the chalcedony which strews the seaboard-flat. This agate, of which amulets and signet-rings were and are still made, and which takes many varieties of tints, lies in veins mostly striking east-west; and varying in thickness from an inch to several feet. The sequence is grey granite below, the band of chalcedony, and above it a curious schistose gneiss-formation. The latter, composing the greater part of these hills, is striped dark-brown and yellow; and in places it looks exactly like rotten wood. The small specimens of chalcedony in my private collection were examined at Trieste, and one of them contained dendritic gold, visible to the naked eye. Unfortunately the engineer had neglected this most important rock, and only a few ounces of it, instead of as many tons, were brought back for analysis.

A short and easy ascent led to a little counter-slope, the Majrá Mujayrah (Mukayrah), whose whitening sides spoke of quartz. We rode down towards a granite island where the bed mouths into the broad Wady Mismáh, a feeder of the Wady ‘Argah. Here, after some ten miles, the guide, Na'ji', who thus far had been very misty in the matter of direction, suddenly halted and, in his showman style, pointed to the left bank of the watercourse, exclaiming, "Behold Abá'l-Marú!" (the "Father of Quartz"). It was another surprise, and our last, this snowy reef with jagged crest, at least 500 metres long, forming the finest display of an exposed filon we had as yet seen; but--the first glance told us that it had been worked.

We gave the rest of the day to studying and blasting the quartz-wall. It proved to be the normal vein in grey granite, running south-north and gradually falling towards the valley-plain. Here a small white outlier disappears below the surface, rising again in filets upon the further side. The dip is easterly: in this direction a huge strew of ore-mass and rubbish covers the slope which serves as base to the perpendicular reef. The Negro quartz, which must have formed half the thickness, had been carried bodily away. If anything be left for the moderns it is hidden underground: the stone, blasted in the little outlier, looked barren. Not the least curious part of this outcrop is the black thread of iron silicate which, broken in places, subtends it to the east: some specimens have geodes yielding brown powder, and venal cavities lined with botryoidal quartz of amethystine tinge. In other parts of the same hills we found, running along the "Mará," single and double lines of this material, which looked uncommonly like slag.

The open Wady Mismáh showed, to the east of our camp, the ruins of a large settlement which has extended right across the bed: as the guides seemed to ignore its existence, we named it the Kharábat Abá'l-Marú. Some of the buildings had been on a large scale, and one square measured twenty yards. Here the peculiarity was the careful mining of a granitic hillock on the southern bank. The whole vein of Negro quartz had been cut out of three sides, leaving caves that simulated catacombs. Further west another excavation in the same kind of rock was probably the town-quarry. The two lieutenants were directed next morning to survey this place, and also a second ruin and reef reported to be found on the left bank, a little below camp.

We have now seen, lying within short distances, three several quartz-fields, known as--Marwah, "the single Place or Hill of Maú'" (quartz); Marwát, "the Places of Quartz;" and Abá'l-Marú, the "Father of Quartz;" not to speak of a Nakb Abú Marwah[EN#83] further north. The conclusion forced itself upon me that the name of the celebrated Arab mine Zú'l Marwah or El-Marwah, the more ancient (Mochura), which Ptolemy places in north lat. 24° 30', applied to the whole district in South Midian, and then came to denote the chief place and centre of work. To judge by the extent of the ruins, and the signs of labour, this focus was at Umm el-Karáyát (the "Mother of the Villages"), which, as has been shown, is surrounded by a multitude of miner-towns and ateliers. And the produce of the "diggings" would naturally gravitate to El-Badá, the great commercial station upon the Nabathæan "Overland."

Thus El-Marwah would signify "the Place of Marú," or "Quartz-land," even as Ophir means "Red Land." A reviewer of my first book on Midian objects to the latter derivation; as Seetzen, among others, has conclusively shown that Ophir, the true translation of which is ‘riches,' is to be looked for in Southern Arabia." Connu! But I question the "true translation;" and, whilst owning that one of the Ophirs or "Red Lands" lay in the modern Yemen, somewhere between Sheba (Sabá) and Havilah (Khaulán), I see no reason for concluding that this was the only Ophir. Had it been a single large emporium on the Red Sea, which collected the produce of Arabia and the exports of India and of West Africa, the traditional site could hardly have escaped the notice of the inquiring Arabian geographers of our Middle Ages. The ruins of a port would have been found, and we should not be compelled theoretically to postulate its existence.

* * * * * *

And now nothing remained but to escape as quickly as possible from the ugly Wady Mismáh; with its violent, dusty wester, or sea-breeze, and its sun-glare which, reflected and reverberated by the quartz, burned the grass and made the trees resemble standing timber.

April 10th saw the last of our marches, a hurry back to the stable, a sauve qui peut. The camel-men, reckless of orders, began to load and to slip away shortly after midnight. Ali Marie, who, as usual, had lost his head, when ordered to enjoin silence gave the vain and vague direction, "Tell the Arabs to tell the camels not to make so much noise." Even the bugler sounded the "general" of his own accord; and the mules, now become painfully intelligent, walked as if they knew themselves to be walking homewards. Our last stage lay over the upper skirts of the maritime plain which has already been noticed. At 10.15 am., after riding five hours and thirty minutes (= seventeen miles), we found ourselves once more upon the seaboard. Our kind host, Captain Hasan Bey, came to meet us in his gig: the quarter-deck had been dressed with flags, as for a ball; and before twelve bells struck, we had applied ourselves to an excellent breakfast in the gun-room of our old favourite, the Sinnár. The auspicious day of course ended with a fantasia.

Résumé of Our Last Journey.

We had left the Sharm Yáhárr on March 21st, and returned to it on April 13th; a total of twenty-four days. Our actual march through South Midian, which had lasted thirteen days (March 29--April 10), described a semicircle with El-Wijh about the middle of the chord. The length is represented by 170 miles in round numbers: as usual, this does not include the various offsets and the by-paths explored by the members; nor do the voyages to El-Wijh and El-Haurá, going and coming, figure in the line of route. The camels varied from fifty-eight to sixty-four, when specimens were forwarded to the harbour-town. The expenditure amounted to£92 13s., including pay and "bakhshísh" to the Baliyy Shaykhs, but not including our friends the Sayyid, Furayj, and the Wakíl Mohammed Shahádah.

This southern region differs essentially from the northern, which was twice visited, and which occupied us two months, mostly wasted. Had we known what we do now, I should have begun with the south, and should have devoted to it the greater part of our time. Both are essentially mining countries; but, whilst the section near Egypt preserves few traces of the miner, here we find the country carefully and conscientiously worked. The whole eastern counterslope of the outliers that project from the Ghát-section known as the mountains of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah, is one vast outcrop of quartz. The parallelogram between north lat. 26 degrees, including the mouth of the Wady Hamz, and north lat. 27°, which runs some fifteen miles north of the Badá plain, would form a Southern Grant, sufficiently large to be divided and subdivided as soon as judged advisable.

If the characteristics of North Midian (Madyan Proper) are its argentiferous, and especially its cupriferous ores, South Midian worked chiefly gold and silver, both metals being mentioned by the mediaeval geographers of Arabia. Free gold in paillettes was noticed by the Expedition in the micaceous schists veining the quartz, and in the chalcedony which parts the granite from the gneiss. The argentiferous Negro quartz everywhere abounds, and near the ruins of Badá lie strews of spalled "Marú," each fragment showing its little block of pure lead. Saltpetre is plentiful, and a third "Sulphur hill" rises from the maritime plain north of the Wady Hamz.

The principal ruins and ateliers number five; these, beginning from the north, are the Umm el-Karáyát, the Umm el-Haráb, the Bújat-Badá, the Kharábat Abá'l-Marú, and the old Nabathean port, E1-Haurá. Amongst them is not included the gem of our discovery, the classical shrine, known as Gasr Gurayyim Sa'íd, nor the minor ateliers, El-Kubbah, Abá'l-Gezáz, and the remains upon the Marwát ridge. Good work was done by the Egyptian Staff-officers in surveying the fine harbour of El-Dumayghah, so well fitted as a refuge for pilgrim-ships when doing quarantine; and I venture upon recommending, to the English and Egyptian Governments, my remarks concerning the advisability of at once re-transferring the station to El-Wijh. It is now at Tor; and, as has been said, it forms a standing menace, not only to the Nile Valley, but to the whole of Europe.

Whilst abounding in wood, the Southern Country is not so well watered as are Central and Northern Midian On the other hand, the tenants, confined to the Baliyy tribe, with a few scatters of the despised Hutaym, are milder and more tractable than the Huwaytát. As I have remarked, they are of ancient strain, and they still conserve the instincts of their predecessors, or their forefathers, the old mining race. It will be necessary to defend them against the raids and incursions of the Juhaynah, or "Sons of Dogs," who border upon them to the south, and from the Alaydán-‘Anezah to the south-east; but nothing would be easier than to come to terms with the respective Shaykhs. And the sooner we explore the Jaww, or sandstone region in the interior, with its adjacent "Harrahs," the better for geography and, perhaps not less, for mineralogy. The great ruins of Madáin Sálih upon the Wady Hamz still, I repeat, await the discoverer.

Conclusion.

The next day saw us at El-Wijh, dispensing pay and "bakhshísh" to the companions of our Desert march; and shipping the men and mules, with the material collected during the southern journey. The venerable Shaykh ‘Afnán and his Baliyy were not difficult to deal with; and they went their way homewards fully satisfied. We exchanged a friendly adieu, or rather an au revoir, with our excellent travelling companion, Mohammed Shahádah; and I expressed my sincere hopes to find him, at no distant time, governor of the restored Quarantine-station.

On the morning of April 12th we set out betimes, and anchored for the night in one of the snug bays of Jebel Nu'man. The next day placed us at the Sharm Yáhárr, where the process of general distribution happily ended. Here the final parting took place with the gallant companions of our four months' travel. Shaykh Furayj, delighted with the gift, in addition to his pay, of a Styrian skean-dhu and an Austrian Werndl-carbine, at once set off to rejoin the tribe up-country; while the Sayyid steadfastly stayed with us to the last. These men had become our friends; and my sorrow at leaving them was softened only by the prospect of presently seeing them again.

Immediately after my return to Cairo I strongly recommended the Sayyid for promotion, in these words:--"First and foremost is the Sayyid ‘Abd el-Rahím, the head of a noble family, settled for generations at El-Muwayláh, where he is now Kátib (‘accountant') to the Fort. He knows thoroughly the whole Land of Midian; he is loved and respected by all the Arabs, and both he and his are devoted to the Government of your Highness. Evidently it would be advantageous to promote such a man to the post of governor of the place--a post which will presently become of high importance, and which is actually held by an old officer, almost bed-ridden.

"The second is Shaykh Mohammed Shahádah, of El-Wijh, a man of family and position; known far and wide, and made generally popular by his generous and charitable actions. He was formerly Wakíl, or ‘agent,' to the Fort el-Wijh, until that office was abolished. The port will presently have its custom-house; and I propose forwarding to her Britannic Majesty's Government my notes upon the subject of the Quarantine-station, which has imprudently been transferred from Arabia to Tor, in the Sinaitic Peninsula. Meanwhile it would, I venture to suggest, be most advantageous if Mohammed Shahádah were named governor of his native place."

The Expedition, in its urgent desire to return northwards, was not seconded by weather. Despite an ugly gale, the Sinnár boldly attempted giving the slip to Arabia on April 16th, but she was beaten back before she reached El-Muwaylah. After another stormy day, we again got up steam; and, fighting hard against adverse winds and waves, greatly to the distress of the unfortunate mules and gazelles, we reached Suez on April 20th.

At Suez my wife had been awaiting me for long weeks, preferring the simplicity of the Desert to the complex life of Cairo. Some delay was again necessary in order to telegraph our arrival, to apply for a special train, and to sort and pack in the travelling-cases our twenty-five tons of specimens. As often happens, the return to civilization was in nowise cheery. Everything seemed to go wrong. For instance, the Dragoman despatched to town from the New Docks in order to lay in certain comforts, such as beef and beer, prudently laid out the coin in a brand-new travelling suit intended for his own service. Such an apology for a dinner had not been seen during the last four months of wild travel--unpleasant when guests have been bidden to a feast! The night at the Docks, also, was a trifle mortuary, over-silent and tranquil: all hands, officers and men, who could not get leave to sleep ashore, simply took leave--I believe myself to have been for a time both captain and crew of the Sinnár. And, lastly, we heard that both our dog-companions, Juno and Páijí, had died of some canine epidemic.

The next day ended our halt at Suez, with visits to slop-shops and a general discussion of choppes. The old hotel, under the charge of Mr. and Mrs. Adams, had greatly improved by the "elimination" of the offensive Hindi element; and my old friends of a quarter-century's standing received me with all their wonted heartiness. Sa'íd Bey was still a Bey, but none the less jovial and genial; Captain Ali Bey, who had commanded the Sinnár, was now acting commodore; and my only regret was having again missed Colonel Gordon (Pasha).

April 22nd convinced us that, even in these prosaic regions, our misadventures and accidents had not reached their fated end. A special train had been organized by Hanafi Effendi for eight a.m. About ten miles from Suez one of the third-class carriages began "running hot;" and, before we could dismount, the axle-box of a truck became a young Vesuvius in the matter of vomiting smoke. I ordered the driver, who was driving furiously, to make half speed; but even with this precaution there were sundry stoppages; and at the Naffíshah station, where my Bolognese acquaintances still throve, we could not be supplied with a change of "rolling-stock." About Tell el-Kabír, the brake-van also waxed unsafely warm; but it reached Zagázig without developing more caloric. Briefly, we caught fire three times in one morning.

These accidents must always be expected, where spare carriages are placed for months upon sidings to become tinder in the sun; and where the cracks and crevices of the woodwork fill up with the silicious sand of the Desert, an admirable succedaneum for flint and steel. One consolation, however, remained to us: the Dragoman, brand-new clothes and all, was left behind at Suez. His last chef d'œuvre of blundering has already been noticed[EN#84]--the barrel of Midianitish oysters sent to Admiral M'Killop (Pasha) had been so carelessly headed up, and so carefully turned topsy-turvy, that the result was, to use my friend's words, they could be nosed from the half-way station. The "Kyrios" had probably passed a Bacchanalian night with his Hellenic friends, and he subsequently made act of presence at Cairo with a very British-looking black eye. His accident at Suez was a bit of "poetical justice," which almost convinced one of the "moral government."

A succulent breakfast à la fourchette, in the charming garden of our friend M. Vetter, of Zagázig, duly discussed, we again went "on board," amusing the lookers-on by our naive enjoyment of the Nile-valley: they had not been in Arabia, and they found the "emerald-green" dusty and yellow. We reached Cairo at 5.30 p.m. More troubles! Ten minutes after arrival we found ourselves in possession, in sole charge of the gare. The train was loaded with Government property, officers, soldiers and escort, mules, boxes and bags of specimens whose collecting had cost money. Yet station-master, agent, and employés at once went their ways, declining even to show the room allotted to our goods, although a telegram from the railway authorities had advised me that one had been made ready. The assistant-agent, when at last hunted up, declared, before vanishing once more, that the porters for whom we applied were busy loading cotton, and that we must e'en do the best we could for ourselves. So the waggons were shunted and unloaded by their tenants, and the minerals were deposited under a kind of shed whose key was not forthcoming. We failed to find even a light, till the local train from Suez was announced; and, when it began whistling, the officials, who had returned like rats from their holes, gave us peremptory directions to shunt again. This time, however, I had the game in my hands; and replied by taking due precautions against being turned out.

At first the soldier-escort worked as well as could be expected; but the numbers fell off every quarter of an hour, till we were left with a very select party; the only recipients, by-the-by, of "bakhshísh." The Sub-Lieutenant Mohammed Effendi mounted a donkey the moment he stepped out of the R.R. carriage; and, utterly disregarding so vexatious a frivolity as asking leave, rode off to his home at Torah. His example was followed by the Sergeant Mabrúk ‘Awaz. And yet both these men had the impudence to call upon me at the hotel, and to apply for especial Shahádahs, or "testimonials" of good conduct. In short, we were detained at the station for three mortal hours, working with our own hands. If this be a fair specimen of European management in Egypt, and I am told that it has now become worse, much worse in every way, the sooner we return to Egyptian mismanagement the better. The latter is, at any rate, cheap and civil.

On the next day the Viceroy graciously sent his junior Master of Ceremonies, his Excellency Tonino Bey, to welcome me back; and I was at once honoured with audiences at the Khedivial Palace, ‘Abidin, and by Prince Husayn Kámil Pasha at Gizah (Jízah). The Khediv was pleased to express satisfaction with my past exertions, and ordered several measures to be carried out at once. Amongst them was a little exhibition of mineralogy and archaeology, maps and plans, sketches and croquis, at the Hippodrome.

I need hardly say that his Highness at once saw the gist of the matter. Many concessions had been applied for, even from Australia; but the Viceroy determined that, before any could be granted, careful analyses of the specimens must be made, at his Highness's private expense, in London. M. Ferdinand de Lesseps, of world-wide fame, volunteered, in the most friendly way, to submit échantillons of the rocks to the Parisian Académie des Sciences, of which he is a distinguished member. The Viceroy was also pleased spontaneously to remind me of, and to renew, the verbal promise made upon my return from the first Expedition to Midian; namely, that I should be honoured with a concession, or that a royalty of five per cent. on the general produce of the mines should be the reward of discovery. The young Minister of Finance, Prince Husayn Kámil Pasha, after courteously congratulating me upon the successful result of our labours, put as usual the most pertinent of questions.

The opening of our little Exposition was delayed by sundry difficulties. The Greek Easter set in with its usual severity about later April. A general shop-shutting, a carouse unlimited, catholic, universal; and, despite stringent police orders, a bombardment of the town by squibs and crackers, were the principal features of the fête. The 29th was the classical Shamm el-Nasin, or "the Smelling of the Zephyr," a local May-day religiously kept with utter idleness. Mr. W. E. Hayns and I utilized it by going a flint-hunting on the left bank of the Nile.[EN#85] Then the terrible "May coupon" gave immense trouble and annoyance to the rulers; who, so far from making merry with the lieges, had to work in person between five a.m. and midnight. After such exertion as this, rest was of course necessary. Subsequently, a grand review monopolized one day; another was spent by the Court in despatching the young Prince Fu'ád to Switzerland; and yet another was given to his Highness the Prince Hasan Pasha, Commander-in-Chief of the Egyptian auxiliaries, who, on the conclusion of the war, had returned to Cairo en route for Europe.

Briefly, it was not before May 9th that the Khediv, accompanied by the Prince héritier, Taufík Pasha, found leisure personally to open the Exhibition--the first, by-the-by, ever honoured with the Viceregal presence. Despite all my efforts, the rooms, which should have been kept clear till his Highness had passed through, were crowded at an early hour. The maps prepared at the Citadel by Lieutenants Amir and Yusuf, with the aid of three extra hands, were very imperfect, half finished at the last moment, and abounding in such atrocities as "Ouorh" for "El-Wijh." The engineer, M. Marie, when asked aloud, and with all publicity, by the Khediv whether he was sure that such and such specimens contained gold, shirked a direct reply, evasively declaring that "Midian is a fine mining country." He had pointed out to me the precious metal during our exploration of Umm el-Karáyat; but such is the wretched result of "knowing the people," instead of telling the truth like a man. And one of the many jealous, a mild Mephisto., whispered in the Viceregal ear, "There can't be much gold there, or ces messieurs would have said more about it."

Despite these small contretemps the Exhibition[EN#86] was pronounced a success, and served, as such things do, for a nine days' wonder. Several travellers from England and Australia took the opportunity of inspecting the rocks; and I was much encouraged to find the general opinion so highly favourable. Locally there were dissidents, but this must be expected where interests differ.

Meanwhile his Highness kept me hard at work. I was directed to draw up a concise general description of the province; to report upon the political and other measures by which the Midian country would be benefited; and, lastly, to suggest the means which, in my humble opinion, were best calculated for successfully working the mines. In former days the Viceroy would at once have undertaken the task, and probably would have sent down five thousand men to open the diggings. Now, however, the endless trickery of European adventurers and speculators has made a wise precaution absolutely necessary. During the last audience, his Highness ably and lucidly resumed the history of the past measures, and the steps which he proposed for the future. The first Khedivial Expedition had been simply one of exploration, sent to ascertain whether the precious metals really existed. The second was intrusted with the charge of laying down the probable limits of the mining formation; and of bringing back varied specimens, in quantities sufficient for scientific analysis. The third and next step would be to organize a Compagnie de Recherche, with the object of beginning a serious exploitation. The future thus settled, I was kindly and courteously dismissed, with a desire that I should take charge of the specimens, and personally superintend the work of assaying. Mr. Charles Clarke received pay and leave for three months, and was ordered to convey the boxes by "long sea."

On May 10th we left Cairo in company with our friend Mr. Garwood, C.E. At Alexandria a great repose fell upon my spirit; it was like gliding into a smooth port after a storm at sea. All the petty troubles and worries of Cairo; the cancans, the intrigues, the silly reports of the envious and the jealous, with the buzz and sting of mosquitoes; the weary waiting; the visits of "friends" whose main object in life seemed to be tuer le ver; and the exigencies of my late fellow-travellers, who, after liberal pay and free living for four months, seemed determined to quarter themselves upon the Egyptian Government for the rest of their natural lives;--all these small cares, not the less annoying because they were small, disappeared like magic at the first glimpse of blue water. I had barely time to pass an afternoon at Ramleh, "the Sand-heap," with an intimate of twenty-five years' standing, Hartley John Gisborne, an old servant of the Egyptian "Crown," for whom new men and new measures have, I regret to see, made the valley of the Nile no longer habitable.

The next Sunday placed us on board the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's screw-steamer Austria (Capitano Rossol). As usual, the commander and officers did all they could to make their voyagers comfortable; the Company did the contrary. At this spring season, true, the migratory host of unfeathered bipeds crowds northwards; even as in autumn it accompanies the birds southwards. But when berths are full, passengers should be refused; and if the commercial director prefers dead to live goods, travellers should be duly warned. The accommodation would have been tolerable in a second-class or third-class English steamer, which charges fifteen shillings to a sovereign per diem; here, however, we were paying between £2 and £3.

The Alexandrian agent had been asked to lodge us decently. My wife found herself in a cabin occupied by two nurses. I was placed in a manner of omnibus, a loose box for six, of whom one was an Armenian and two were Circassians from Daghistán--good men enough, but not pleasant as bedroom fellows. No extra service had been engaged for an extra cargo of seventy-two; that is, forty-two first, and thirty second class. There were only three stewards, including the stewardess; and the sick were left to serve themselves. At least half a dozen were required; and, in such places as Trieste and Alexandria, a large staff of cooks and waiters can always be engaged in a few hours. On board any English ship some of the smartest and handiest seamen would have been converted into temporary attendants--here no one seemed to think of a proceeding so far out of the usual way. There was only one, instead of three or four cooks; and the unfortunate had to fill a total of one hundred and thirty-five mouths, the crew included, three times a day. The other tenant of the close and wretched little galley lay sick with spotted typhus; and, after barbarous neglect, he died on the day following our arrival at Trieste--I did not hear that the surgeon of the screw-steamer Austria had met with his deserts by summary dismissal from the service. The Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's was once famed for good living; over-economy and high dividends have now made the cuisine worse than the cheapest of tables d'hôte. Provisions as well as their preparation were so bad that Sefer Pasha, an invalid, confined himself to a diet of potatoes and eggs.

Add the quasi-impossibility of obtaining a bath; the uncleanliness of the offices; the hard narrowness of the sofas; the small basins, or rather bowls, and the tiny towels like napkins; the clamorous pets of the small fry, cats and dogs; the crowding of second-class passengers on the quarter-deck; and the noise of the Armenian lady beating her maid, who objected to the process in truly dreadful language: throw in an engine which, despite the efforts of her energetic English engineer, Mr. Wilkinson, managed only nine instead of eleven and a half knots an hour; an ugly north-easter off Cape Matapan, bringing tropical downfalls of rain; and a muggy Scirocco off Istria, when we breathed almost as much water as air: and I think that the short entry in my journal, "horridly uncomfortable," was to a certain extent justified by the conduct of the poor Austria. Yet the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's boasts a dividend of seven per cent. She shall see no more of my money: until she mend her ways I shall prefer the Genoese Rubattino.

But, as the Persian poet has it, Ín níz bug'zared--"Even these things pass away." At Corfu we were cheered by once more meeting Sir Charles Sebright, who looked hale and hearty as of yore. When we reached Trieste, his Excellency Baron Pino von Friendenthall, accompanied by the most amiable of "better halves," came off in his galley, happily unconscious of typhus; and carried us away without the usual troubles and delays of landing in harbour bumboats. Friendly faces smiled a welcome; and, after an absence of some seven months, I found myself once more in the good town which has given us a home during the last five years.

At Trieste I was delayed for some time, awaiting the report that the specimens collected by the Expedition had arrived at their destination, the warehouses of the London Docks. Mr. Clarke met with obstacles at Suez; and, consequently, did not reach England till June 20th, after twenty-three rough days. As her Majesty's Foreign Office had been pleased to accord me two months of leave to England, I determined to make the voyage by "long sea." Both suffering from the same complaint, want of rest and of roast-beef, as opposed to rosbif, we resolved to ship on board the English steamer Hecla, of the B. and N. A. R. M. S. P. Company, the old Cunard line, famous for never having lost a life, a ship, or a letter. We left Trieste on July 7, 1878, in charge of our excellent commander, Captain James Brown; and, after a cruise of twenty days, viâ Venice, Palermo, and Gibraltar--a comfortable, cheery, hygienic cruise in charming weather over summer seas--we found ourselves once more (July 26th) in the city of the Liver.

Appendix I.

DATES OF THE THREE JOURNEYS (Northern, Central, and Southern) made by the Second Khedivial Expedition.

First Journey.

(December 19, 1877, to February 13, 1878.)

December 6, 1877, left Cairo. 10 1877, left Suez. 14 1877, reached El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr) on the "Day of 'Arafát." * * * * * December 19, 1877, landed at El-Muwaylah. 21 1877, marched upon Wady Tiryam. 22 1877, marched upon Wady Sharmá. 23 1877, marched upon Jebel el-Abyaz. 30 1877, returned to Wady Sharmá. January 7, 1878, marched upon 'Aynúnah. 8 1878, halted at 'Aynúnah. 9 1878, halted at Wady el-'Usaylah. 10 1878, reached Magháir Shu'ayb. 25 1878, marched upon Makná. February 3 1878, embarked for the Marsá Dahab in the Sinaitic Peninsula. 4 1878, to the anchorage of El-Nuwaybi'. 5 1878, anchored at Pharaoh's Island. 6 1878, halted at Pharaoh's Island. 7 1878, steamed to El-'Akabah town. 8 1878, ran down Gulf el-'Akabah. 9 1878, anchored under Tírán Island. 10 1878, halted at Tírán Island. February 11, 1878, ran from wrecking to Sináfir Island. 12 1878, halted at Sinafir Island. 13 1878, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr).

Second Journey.

(February 17, 1878, to March 8,1878.)

February 17, 1878 walked to ruins of Abú Hawáwít. 18 ,, marched upon the Safh Jebel Malíh in the Wady Surr. 19 ,, camped in the Sayl Wady el-Jimm. 20 ,, marched upon El-Nagwah. 21 ,, reached the head of the Wady Sadr. 23 ,, camped below the Col, "El-Khuraytah." 24 ,, reached the Hismá. 25 ,, descended the two Passes and camped in the "Jayb el-Khuraytah." 26 ,, marched upon the Majrá el-Ruways. 27 ,, ,, ,, ,, Wady Damah. 28 ,, ,, ,, ,, ruins of Shuwák. March 1 ,, halted at the ruins of Shuwák. 2 ,, visited the ruins of Shaghab and camped at the Majrá el-Wághir. 3 ,, visited the ruins El-Khandakí and camped at the plain El-Kutayyifah. 4 ,, marched down the Wady Salmá and camped at the Má el-Badíah. 5 ,, reached Zibá town. 6 ,, halted at Zibá. 7 ,, visited the turquoise-diggings of Zibá and camped at the Máyat el-Ghál. 8 ,, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr).

Complementary Excursion to the Shárr Mountain.

March 13, 1878, camped in the Wady el-Káimah. 14 ,, camped in the Wady el-Kusayb. 15 ,, camped in the Safhat el-Wu'ayrah. 16 ,, up the Shárr. 17 ,, camped in the Wady Kuwayd. 18 ,, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr).

THIRD JOURNEY.

March 21, 1878, to April 10, 1878.)

March 21, 1878, left Sharm Yáhárr and made the Sharm Dumayghah. 22 ,, halted at El-Dumayghah. 23 ,, anchored in harbour of El-Wijh. 24 ,, set out in the Sinnár southwards. 25 ,, anchored at El-Haurá. 26 ,, halted at El-Haurá.

(On March 26th MM. Marie and Philipin marched from El-Wijh to the Wady Hamz, and rejoined head-quarters on the 28th.)

March 27, 1878 returned to El-Wijh. 29 ,, left El-Wijh and camped at inner fort. 30 ,, to Umm el-Karáyát (ruins and mine). 31 ,, visited ruins of El-Kubbah; camped in Wady Dasnah. April 1, 1878 to Umm el-Haráb (ruins and mine). 2 ,, camped in the Wady Abá'l-Gezáz. 3 ,, camped in the plain of Badá. 4 ,, halted at the plain of Badá. 5 ,, camped at the Ayn el-Kurr. 6 ,, camped in the Wady Laylah. 7 ,, camped in the Wady Abá'l-'Ajáj. 8 ,, to the ruins of the Gasr Gurayyim Sa'íd (classical temple). 9 ,, to the Abá'l-Marú (Marwah mine). 1O ,, return to El-Wijh.

THE RETURN TO EGYPT.

April 12, 1878 steamed northwards to Nu'man Island. 13 ,, reached El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr). 18 ,, left El-Muwaylah, night at sea. 19 ,, in Gulf of Suez. 20 ,, reached Suez. 22 ,, reached Cairo.

Appendix II.

EXPENSES OF THE EXPEDITION TO MIDIAN, commanded by Captain R. F. Burton, H.B.M. Consul, Trieste.

Cairo, November 1, 1877.

£ s. d. Sum received from Egyptian Finance 1977 12 0

Amounts Paid out by Order of Captain Burton. £ s. d.

Hotel bills for five persons (thirty-six days) 149 6 9 Advanced to members of Expedition up to date (May 3rd)[EN#87] 74 12 3 Cost of provisions for journey to Midian, fourteen persons 314 8 9 Cost of tools, chemicals, instruments, canteen, etc. 185 19 0 Medicine chest from Dr. Lowe 10 10 0

Journey to Suez from Cairo, December 6th, 1878:-- Hotel bill for eleven persons (three days) 33 3 6 Tobacco for presents to Bedawin 6 8 0 Sundries 13 10 6 Telegrams and post service 3 9 0 __________________ £791 7 9

El-Muwaylah, December 16th, to return, February 13th:-- Journey to north[EN#88] 316 14 3 Post service 14 8 0 Cost of sheep[EN#89] 32 14 0 Sundries[EN#90] 20 7 7 Five foot-soldiers' salaries 7 4 0

Eastern journey to the Hismá[EN#91] 187 6 6 Post service 3 8 0 Cost of sheep[EN#92] 11 19 0 Sundries 5 11 0 Sambúk from Suez, as per contract 9 4 0 Soldiers from fort 3 0 0

Journey to Shárr[EN#93] 44 11 6 Cost of sheep[EN#94] 3 4 0 Thirty pairs of boots for soldiers[EN#95] 6 0 0 Sundries 1 0 0 Journey to south[EN#96] 92 13 0 Cost of sheep[EN#97] 15 16 0 Post service 2 0 0 Sundries[EN#98] 18 3 6 Special payments:-- Sayyid 'Abd el-Rahím Effendi 16 0 0 Bukhayt 1 12 0 Husayn 1 12 0 Shaykh Furayj 4 0 0 Shaykh Furayj salary for twenty-five days 5 0 0 Expenses at Suez, unloading, etc., and hotel bills for ten persons 39 17 0 Post and telegrams 1 16 0 Suez to Cairo 1 12 6 _________________ £1658 1 7

Expenses at Cairo up to date May 5, 1878:-- Unloading, cartage, and preparing for Exhibition 24 5 5 Salaries of persons engaged from Cairo and Muwaylah:-- Anton Dimitri, Giorgi, and Petro[EN#99] 93 17 6 Magazine-man at El-Muwaylah[EN#100] 6 8 0 Sais from Suez, engaged through governor[EN#101] 9 0 0 Mr. Clarke's salary[EN#102] 180 0 0 _________________ £1971 12 6 In hand for small expenses not yet sent in for payment 5 19 6 _________________ £1977 12 0 _________________ Sent in May 6, 1878.

(Signed) CHAS. CLARKE. (Countersigned) RICHARD F. BURTON. Commanding Expedition.

Appendix III. PRESERVED PROVISIONS AND OTHER STORES, supplied by Messrs. Voltéra Bros., of the Ezbekiyyah, Cairo.

£ s. d. 95 okes potatoes, at 5d. 1 19 7 670 okes best rice, at 8 1/2d. 23 14 7 152 okes sugar, at 11 1/2d. per kilog. 8 19 6 1/2 60 okes ground coffee, at 4s. 6d. 13 10 0 120 tins milk, at 14s. 7 0 0 120 bottles pickles 6 0 0 15 tins butter (of 1 lb.), at 2s. 6d. 1 17 6 60 okes oil, at 2s. 6d. 7 10 0 6 heads English cheese (60 1/4 lbs.) at 1s. 5d. 4 10 4 1/2 160 okes dried French beans, at 10d. 6 13 4 60 okes maccaroni and paste 3 0 0 54 okes onions, at 7d. 1 11 6 10 okes garlic, at 10d. 0 8 4 50 packets candles 2 10 0 5 okes cavendish tobacco, at 12s. 3 0 0 6 okes tobacco (Turkish), at 24s. 7 4 0 120 bottles soda-water, at 8d. per dozen 4 0 0 20 bottles syrups, at 2s. 2 0 0 50 bottles vinegar 2 10 0 10 dozen beer, at 11s. 5 10 0 15 bars soap, at 1s. 6d. 1 2 6 20 pots mustard, at 1s. 6d. 1 10 0 6 bottles curry, at 1s. 6d. 0 9 0 20 lbs. table raisins 0 16 0 10 large bottles pepper, at 2s. 1 0 0 _________________ £118 6 3

10 small packets salt, at 1s. 0 10 0 5 large packets salt at 1s. 6d. 0 7 6 6 bottles sauces, at s. 12d. 0 7 0 12 bottles lime-juice, at 2s. 6d. 1 10 0 12 umbrellas, at 4s. 2 8 0 12 bottles blacking, at 1s. (for tracing inscriptions) 0 12 0 6 lanterns, at 1s. 6d. 0 9 0 12 large tins sardines, at 1s. 6d. 0 18 0 2 corkscrews, at 1s. 3d. 0 2 6 2 opening knives 0 2 0 101 1/4 okes of biscuits, at 1s. 5 1 3 1 case Mumm's champagne 4 5 0 1 case cognac, XX 2 8 0 1 case whisky 1 16 0 1 tin plum-pudding 0 2 6 10 packets matches, at 1s. 2d. 0 11 8 8 barrels flour, at L3 24 0 0 4 okes Curani (Kora'ni) tobacco, at 16s. 3 4 0 30 lbs. tea, at 4s. 6 0 0 24 tins green peas, at 1s. 1 4 0 18 tins haricots verts, at 1s. 0 18 0 18 tins haricots flageolets, at 1s. 0 18 0 18 tins champignons, at 1s. 2d. 1 1 0 18 tins macedoine, at 1s. 0 18 0 8 tins carrots, at 1s. 0 8 0 16 tins asparagus (large), at 3s. 2 8 0 53 1/2 lbs. ham, at 1s. 6d. 4 0 3 100 bottles 'Ráki, at 2s. 10 0 0 100 tins meats, at 1s. 6d. 7 10 0 4 dozen pints beer, at 8s. 1 12 0 7 empty tins for coffee, at 1s. 6d. 0 10 6 17 empty bags 0 14 2 4 okes packing rope, at 2s. 0 8 0 1/4 okes isinglass 0 3 0 2 bottles spices 0 2 0 10 nutmegs 0 1 0 _________________ £205 16 7

£ s. d. 1 packet starch 0 3 0 1 oke twine 0 2 6 2 okes nails, at 10d. 0 1 8 1 box cigarette papers 0 8 0 Kitchen utensils 0 13 6 Empty bags 0 2 0 Packing 2 10 0 _________________ Total £209 17 3 _________________

Additional Supplies.

£ s. d. 50 bottles 'Ráki, at 2s. 5 0 0 95 okes potatoes, at 5d. 1 19 7 16 lbs. tea, at 4s. 3 4 0 50 tins preserved meats, at 1s. 6d. 3 15 0 20 tins green peas, at 1s. 1 0 0 12 tins haricots verts, at 1s. 0 12 0 12 tins champignon, at 1s. 2d. 0 14 0 6 tins first size asparagus, at 4s. 1 4 0 10 tins butter (1 lb.), at 2s. 8d 1 6 8 36 lbs. English cheese, at 1s. 6d. 2 14 0 60 okes maccaroni 3 0 0 126 okes onions, at 7d. 3 13 6 20 packets candles 1 0 0 50 boxes matches, at 1s. 2d. doz. 0 5 0 5 bars soap, at 1s. 6d. 0 7 6 12 bottles sauces, at 1s. 2d. 0 14 0 6 large bottles pepper, at 2s. 0 12 0 10 small packets salt, at 1s. 0 10 0 5 bottles lime-juice, at 2s. 6d. 0 12 6 108 okes hard biscuits, at 1s. 5 8 0 2 1/2 okes snuff 2 10 0 16 lbs. ginger-root, at 1s. 6d. 1 4 0 2 doz. whisky, at 36s. 3 12 0 2 doz. Martel's cognac 4 4 0 6 bottles absinthe, 2s. 6d. 0 15 0 _________________ £49 16 9

5 bottles Oxley's essence of ginger, at 4s. 1 0 0 5 bottles pyretic saline, at 3s. 6d. 0 17 6 3 boxes seidlitz powders, at 2s. 0 6 0 1 bottle aconite 0 2 6 4 iron tea and coffee kettles 1 14 0 2 empty tins for tea 0 3 0 Packing 1 10 0 Carts, 2s.; railway fare, 82s. 4 4 0 _________________ Total £59 13 9

APPENDIX IV. BOTANY AND LIST OF INSECTS.

SECTION I.

PROFESSOR D. OLIVER'S LIST OF DRIED PLANTS presented by Captain Burton to the Herbarium, Royal Gardens, Kew, September, 1878.

Núman North Middle South Isle. Midian. Midian. Midian.

Anastatica hierochuntina, L. Kaff maryam ................ - I - - Morettia parviflora, Boiss. Eaten by cattle. Thagar; Gaf'aa ..................... - - I I Matthiola oxyceras, DC. forma gracilis. Animals eat. Hazá; Muhawwil ..... - - I - Malcolmia aegyptiaca, Spr. Animals eat. Tarbeh ...... - I - - Zilla myagroides, F. Silla. Camels eat. ............... - I - - Biscutella Columnae, Ten .... - - I - Diplotaxis Harra? Hárrah. Eaten by cattle. .......... - - I - Diplotaxis acris, Boiss. (Moricandia crassifolia, Gay) ...................... - I - - Sisymbrium erysimoides, Desf. Salih. Eaten by camels and sheep ................. - I I I Farsetia Burtonae, Oliv. sp. nov. Ghurayrá ........ - I I - Schimpera arabica, H. and St. ....................... - I - - Enarthrocarpus lyratus, F., vel E. strangulatus, Boiss ..................... - I - - Capparis Sodada, Br. (Sodada decidua, Forsk.). Tanzub. Red berries eaten. ........ - - - I Cleome chrysantha, Dcne. Mashteh. Pounded and drank for worms, etc. ..... - - - I Cleome arabica, L. 'Ubaysd. Eaten by animals. ......... - - - I Papaver Decaisnei, H. and St. - - I - Ochradenus baccatus, Del. Gurzi. A large tree; eaten by cattle ........... - I - I Reseda (Caylusea) canescens, L. Zanabán. Eaten by cattle .................... - I I - Reseda, an R. stenostachya(?), Boiss. Khizám. Eaten by animals ................... - I - - Helianthemum Lippii, Pers. Kazim. Cattle eat. ........ - - I - Silene villosa, Forsk. 'Abaysá. Too much coated with sand to serve as food for animals .......... - I - - Gypsophila Rokejeka, Del. ... - - I - Polycarpaea fragilis, Del. Makr ...................... I - - - Portulaca oleracea, L. ...... - - - I Hibiscus micranthus, L. fil. forma. Khusiyat Ráshid. Eaten by animals. ......... - - I I Abutilon fruticosum, G. and P. (Sida denticulata, Fres.). ................... - - - I Abutilon muticum, Don ....... - - - I Erodium laciniatum, Cav. Garná. Eaten by cattle ... - I I I Monsonia nivea, Gay ......... - I - - Geranium mascatense, Boiss. Hiláwá. Eaten by man and beast. .................... - - I - Erodium cicutarium, L. ...... - I - - Tribulus terrestris, L. Katbeh .................... - I I I Zygophyllum simplex, L. ..... - - I - Zygophyllum album, L. Gallúm. Camels eat. ...... I - - - Zygophyllum coccineum, L. forma (Z. propinqiuum, Dcne.). Muráká. Animals eat. .............. - I - - Fagonia cretica, L. van (F. glutinosa, Del.). Shikáá (North Midian); Darmeh (Núman) ........... I I - - Fagonia mollis, Del. Warágá; and young plant of same = Zarag. Animals eat. ...................... - I I - Fagonia Bruguieri, DC. Jamdeh. Animals eat. ...... - I - - Dodonmaea viscosa, L. var. (D. arabica, H. and St.). Athab ............... - - I - Rhus oxyacanthoides, Dum. 'Ar'ar .................... - - I - Neurada procumbens, L. Sáadán. Eaten by man and beast. Mountain region. ... - I - I Trianthema pentandra, L. .... - - - I Trianthema(?). (Imperfect specimen.) Rumayh. Eaten by sheep and cattle. ......... - - - I Aizoon canariense, L. Dááá. Grain pounded and eaten. .. - - - I Gisekia pharnaceoides, L. ... - I - - Cucumis prophetarum, L. Locality mislaid. ......... Cotyledon umbilicus, L. forma ..................... - - I - Pimpinella arabica, Boiss. Rujaylet el-Ghuráb (Little Crow's-foot). Sheep eat. Locality astray. .......... Pimpinella (Tragium palmetorum? St. and H.). Very young. ............... - I I - Ferula (? sp., leaf only). Kalkh. Animals eat. High up on SHÁRR. ................. Grammosciadium scandicinum, Boiss. sp. nov. ............ - - I I Medicago laciniata, All. ..... - - I - Taverniera aegyptiaca, Boiss. (ex descr.). Shibrig. Eaten by animals. ................ I - - - Indigofera spinosa, Forsk. Shibrig. Camels eat. Good fodder. .................... - - - I Indigofera paucifolia, D. .... - I - - Indigofera (stunted specimen, may be I. paucifolia). 'Afar. Animals eat. ........ - I - - Tephrosia Apollinea, DC. Dalsam; Táwil. Animals eat. - I I I Genista (Retama) monosperma, Del. ....................... - I - - Lotononis Leobordea, Bth. Hurbat. Eaten by cattle. ... - I I - Trigonella stellata, Forsk. (T. microcarpa, Fres.) ..... - I I - Onobrychis(?), possibly O. Ptolemaica. (Barren specimen). ................. - I - - Astragalus sparsus(?), Dcne. . - I - - Astragalus Sieberi, DC. Ghákeh. Dry and pounded root mixed with clarified butter. Drunk as a restorative. ............... - I - I Astragalus Forskahlei, Boiss. Kidád. Camels eat. ........ - I - - Cassia obovata, Coll. Senna .. - I I I Iphiona scabra, DC. Zafrah. Camels eat. ................ - I - - Pulicaria undulata, DC. Rabul. Fine perfume. ....... - I - - Blumea Bovei, DC. (B. abyssinica, Sch.) ...... - I - I Ifloga spicata, Forsk. Zenaymeh. Animals eat. ..... - - - I Asteriscus pygmaeus, C. and Dur. ....................... - - - I Anvillaea Garcini, DC. (fide Boissier). Nukud. Eaten by camels and sheep. . - - I - Anthemis, an A. deserti(?), Boiss. Gahwán. Camels eat: also called Gurrays, pounded and eaten with dates. ..................... - I I I Matricaria (Chamaemelum) auriculata (Boiss.) ........ - - I - Senecio Decaisnei, DC. Umm lewinayn ............... - - I I Senecio coronopifolius, Desf. - I I - Calendula aegyptiaca, Desf. . - - I - Calendula aegyptiaca(?) ..... - I - - Calendula, an var. aegyptiacae(?) ............ - - - I Echinops spinosus, L. Akhshir. Eaten by camels, sheep, and asses. ......... - - I I Zoegea purpurea, Fres. Rubayyán. Cattle eat. .... - - I - Centaurea sinaica, DC. Yemrár. Eaten by sheep, asses, etc. ............... - I - I Picridium tingitanum, Desf. forma. Huwwá; Tiz el-Kalbeh; El-Haudán. Eaten by man and animals. . - I I I Urospermum picroides, Desf. . - I - - Microrhynchus nudicaulis, Less. 'Azid ............... I - I I Pterotheca bifida, F. and M. - I I - Picris, conf. P. Saha*ae, C. and K. ................. - - - I Picris cyanocarpa, Boiss. ... - - I - Callipeltis cucullaria, Stev. 'Ikrish. Cattle eat. North or Central Midian. Crucianella membranacea, Boiss. ................... - - I - Galium capillare, Dcne ..... - - I - Salvadora persica, L. El-Arák ................. - I - I Rhazya stricta, Dcne. Harjal. Eaten only by mules. Very fragrant. .... - I - - Daemia cordata, R. Br. ..... - - I - Steinheilia radians, Dcne. Faká .................... - I - - Convolvulus Hystrix, V. Shibrim. Root used as a purgative. Animals eat upper part of plant. .... - - - I Cuscuta, conf. C. brevistyla, A. Br. ... - - I - Withania somnifera, Dun. Shajarat el-Dib ......... - I - - Lycium europaeum, L. 'Aushaz. Eaten by animals. ................ - - I I Solanum coagulans(?), Forsk. var. (A small fragment only). ......... - - I - Hyoscyamus pusillus, L. Saykrán ............. - I I - Heliotropium arbainense, Fres. Rahháb. Cattle eat. .................... - I I - Trichodesma africanum, R. Br. Ahmim. Camels and other animals eat. ...... - - I - Echium longifolium(?), Del. Kahlá. Animals eat. .... - - I - Anchusa Milleri, W. ....... - - I - Anchusa Milleri(?) young specimens. .............. - - I - Anchusa Milleri(?) young specimens. .............. - I - - Gastrocotyle (Anchusa hispida, Forsk.). Karir. Camels eat. ............. - - - I Arnebia hispidissima, A. DC. Fayná. Animals eat. .................... - I I - Lithospermum callosum, V. . - I - - Lindenbergia sinaica, Bth. Mallih. Cattle eat. - - - I Verbascum (in bud), an V. sinaiticum(?), Bth. . - - - I Verbascum, sp. nov. Sammá - - I - Herpestis Monniera, Kth. Nafal. Animals eat. - I - - Veronica Anagallis, L. ... - - - I Linaria aegyptiaca, Dum. . - I - - Linaria macilenta, Dcne. Zuraymat el-Himar. Eaten by animals. ...... - - I - Linaria (*§ Elatinoides), sp. imperfect. ......... - - I - Linaria simplex(?), DC. .. - I I - Linaria Haelava Chav. (fide Boissier) ........ - I - - Blepharis edulis, Pers. (Acanthodium spicatum, Del.). Shauk el-Jemel. Camels fond of it. ..... - I - I Lavandula coronopifolia, Poir. Zayteh. All animals eat. ........... - I I - Mentha lavandulacea, W. Habag. Animals do not eat. Pounded and mixed with fresh dates, "good for stomach". .......... - I - - Salvia aegyptiaca, L. .... - I - - Salvia deserti, Dcne. .... - - I - Salvia, an S. deserti(?). Jáadeh. Pounded in water and snuffed up nose. .................. - - I - Otostegia, var. O. scariosae(?), Bth. (vel O. repanda, Bth.) Ghasseh. Sheep eat. .... - - I I Statice axillaris, Forsk. Annúm. Camels eat. .... - I - I Plantago Psyllium, L. Nez'i'ah. Animals eat. . - I I - Plantago amplexicaulis, Cav. Yanameh. Animals eat. ................... - - I - Aerwa javanica, Jass. Rayl. Cattle eat. ...... - I - I Chenopodium murale, L.? .. - I - - Chenopodium murale, L.? (Small seedlings.) Nafal. Cattle eat. ..... - - - I Atriplex dimorphostegia? K. and K. Roghol. Animals eat. ........... - I - - Echinopsilon lanatum, Moq. Garay'á. ............... - I - I Suaeda sp.(?). (Small fragment.) .............. - I - - Suaeda sp.(?). (Barren fragments, insect punctured?) 'Aslá. Forage plant. ........... I - I - Suaeda monoica? Forsk. Zuraygá. Forage plant. . I - - - Salsola(?), cf. S. longifolia, F. Hamz. Camels eat. ............. I - - - Caroxylon(?) (barren specimen), near C., foetidum. Akahrit. Animals eat. ............ I - - - Rumex vesicarius, L. (R. roseus, Del.). Hammáz. Animals eat. ... - - I - Emex spinosus, Camp. ...... - I - - Crozophora tinctoria, Juss. Hinaydieh. Not eaten. ... - - - I Euphorbia cornuta, Pers. 'Atir ................... - I - - Euphorbia scordifolia, Jacq. Gharghir. Animals eat. .................... - I - - Euphorbia (Anisophyllum) granulata, Schf. Rugaygeh. Animals eat. .. - - - I Euphorbia (Anisophyllum) granulata, forma(?). Lubayneh. Cattle eat. ... - - - I Juniperus phoenicea, L. At four thousand feet on Sharr. Trunk thicker than a man's body. Halibeh. ................ - - I - Parietaria alsinifolia, Del. .................... - - I - Forskahlea tenacissima, L. Lissák. Animals eat. ... - - I - Asphodelus fistulosus, L. (var. tenuifolius, Bker.). Bo'rak. Only eaten by animals when very hungry. Asses eat. . - I I - Bellevalia flexuosa, Boiss. - I - - Dipcadi erythraeum, Webb .. - I - - Gagea reticulata, R. and S. - I - - Juncus maritimus, L. ...... - - - I Scirpus Holoschoenus, L. Namas. Sent to Egypt for mats. ................... - - - I Cyperus conglomeratus, Rottb. (Young specimens) - I - - Chloris villosa, Pers. .... - - I - AEluropus repens .......... - I - - Tricholaena micrantha, Schrad. Ghazuiar. Eaten by camels, etc. ......... - - I I Panicum turgidum, Forsk. Zarram. Good fodder. .... - I - I Arundo Donax, L. Kasbá ... - I - - Polypogon monspeliensis, Desf. Kháfúr. Sheep eat. .................... - - - I Stipa tortilis, Desf. Pehmeh. Animals eat. .... - I I I Aristida caerulescens, Desf. Shárib el-Kale. Animals eat. ............ - I I - Hordeum maritimum, L. ..... - I - - Pappophorum, an P. phleoides(?), R. and S. Nejil. Sheep eat. ....... - - - I Barren specimen. Indeterminable. Grass ... - I - - Grass(?). Root and leaves. Hashmil. Animals eat. ... I - - - Typha(?). Root and fragments of leaves. Birdi ................... - - - I Grass. Fragmentary. Záeh. Cattle eat. ............. - - - I Chara foetida, Braun. 'Ishnik ................. - I - - A barren fragment of undershrub, with opposite fleshy leaves with recurved margins. Ajid. Eaten by animals. Doubtful. ............... I - - -

D. OLIVER.

SECTION II.

The spirit-specimens submitted to Mr. William Carruthers, of the British Museum, are described by him as follows:--

1. Phallus impudicus, Linn. (in Arab. Faswat el-'Ajúz). The common "stinkhorn," extremely common in some districts of England, and obtruding on the notice of every one from its detestable odour. It is widely distributed over America and Africa, as well as Europe, but I find no record of its occurring in Asia.

2. Tulostoma mammosum, Fr. Also British, but not so common. Widely distributed.

3. Phelipoea lutea, Desf. A dark, fleshy broom-rape, with scaly leaves. We have one species of the same genus in England. They are parasitic on the roots of plants; and the Midianite species, which is found in North Africa, Egypt, and Arabia, grows on the roots of a Chenopodium.

4. Cynomorium coccineum, Mich. A fleshy, leafless plant, also a root- parasite. It was called by old writers Fungus Melitensis, and was of much repute in medicine. It is known from the Himalayas to the Canary Islands, and is said by Webb, in his history of the Canaries, to be eaten in the Island of Lancerotte.

5. Doemia cordata, R. Br. A spiny shrub, with roundish leaves and small sharp-pointed fruit, found in Egypt and Arabia.

6. Capparis galeata, Fres., with large fruit, long and pear-shaped. This caper is well known; from Syria and Egypt.

(Signed) W. CARRUTHERS.

INSECTS COLLECTED IN MIDIAN BY CAPTAIN BURTON. (Identified by Mr. Frederick Smith, of the British Museum.)

COLEOPTERA.

Geodephaga

l. Anthia 12 guttata.

Melolonthidoe.

2. Schizonycha reflexa. 3. Pachydema.

Dynastidoe.

4. Heteronychus.

Curculionidoe.

5. Cleonus arabs.

Heteromera.

6. Mesostenanear punctipennis. 7. Adesmia. 8. Akis Goryi? 9. Mylabris.

Hemiptera.

10. Nepa rubra.

Mantidoe.

11. Eremiaphila arenaria. 12. Blepharis mendica.

Orthoptera.

13. Acocera. 14. Acridium peregrinum. 15. Poecilocera bufonia.

Scorpionidea.

16. Androctonus funestus. 17. " leptochelys. 18. " quinquestriatus.

Arachnida.

19. Galeodes arabs, in spirit. 20. Clubiona Listeri, in spirit.

(Signed) FREDK. SMITH.

APPENDIX V.

METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL (December 19, 1877, to April 17, 1878).

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES ON TRAVELLING IN MIDIAN.

Midian follows the rule of Syria--travel in the spring. The best time on the seaboard is during the months of March, April, and May. In the mountains and the Hismá plateau, April, May, and June are the most favourable. In Syria (Damascus) the autumn is dangerous: the finest travelling weather is in March to May. The second best season is between October and December.

January and February are cold; the latter also (sometimes) rainy.

March is stormy at first (El-'Uwweh), but afterwards gets warmer (El-Ni'ám). Dews now begin, and last some three months: they wet everything like a sharp shower, and make the air feel soppy.

In July the first dates come in. Fevers are prevalent during this month, and also during August and September.

October is a month of heat and drought.

In November the first cold occurs.

December is the coldest month.

NOTES on TRAVELLING IN LOWER EGYPT.

September is very bad--all should escape who can. Fruits everywhere; sun hot; air damp with irrigation water, white fogs and other horrors.

October is a good month, the weather being neither too hot nor too cold.

November is the month of the "second water" irrigation about Cairo.

December is pleasant.

January is cold and sometimes wet.

February is stormy, and even foggy with sand-mist.

March is windy, but on the whole a good month, except for Khamsin, which begins about March 20th.

April begins to feel warm (April 29, 1878, Shamm el-Nasim).

The winter presents a marvellous contrast to that of England, which can often show one hour and five minutes' sunlight in the twenty-four, or 2.8 per cent. of its possible duration.

THE TIDES

In El-'Akabah are like Suez: first of month, flood, 6--12 a.m. and p.m.; ebb, the rest. But at Suez the tides rise one metre, and at times two metres; at El-'Akabah (February 7), one foot.

For the instruments NOT used in this Expedition, see Chap. I. p. 11.

The barometre aneroid sold by M. Ebner was partially repaired by M. Lacaze, and served for Mr. David Duguid's observations.

My pocket set by Casella (maker to the Admiralty and Ordnance) consisted of--

One watch aneroid (compensated, 1182). Two sets wet and dry bulb thermometers (one broken). One set maxima and minima thermometers, Nos. 12,877 and 12,906. Two pocket hygrometers not numbered.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING FIRST MARCH BETWEEN DECEMBER 19, 1877, AND FEBRUARY 18, 1878

December 19, 1877, compared ship's (Mukhbir) mercurial barometer, 758 millimetres, with my aneroid by Casella (29.85) = 765 millimetres; difference in ship's, + 007 millimetre.

January 31, 1878, returned on board Mukhbir at Makná. Ship's mercurial barometer, 773 millimetres; my aneroid by Casella, 764 millimetres; difference in ship's, + 009 millimetre.

Date. Time. Aneroid Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. Inches. Milli. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.)

Dec. 19. 7a.m. 29.85 765 76 - - 58 On deck of gunboat Mukhbir, at Sharm Yahárr, steaming to El- Muwaylah. Morning ugly. Strong land-breeze, turned to Azyab ("south- easter"). Waves rising. Dark-blue clouds to windward.

Noon. 29.80 757 77 - - 54 In big tent on shore, open east and west. Wind high. Everything feels damp; looks gloomy; mountains almost hidden by clouds. Landscape that of Europe. No sun nor sunshine all day.

3p.m. 29.09 - 86 - - 51 In my small tent. Clearing to windward (north). Wind veering to north. Moon nearly full. High fleecy clouds. Sea high. No sun all day.

Azyab (the wet wind) generally lasts two or three days; veers round by west to north. Much rain has already fallen (Arab lies). Land green (all brown); grass plentiful (not a blade to be seen). Rains here December 15th to February 15th; downfall one hour to four hours, then clears. On December 8th, violent rain for one hour; filled all the torrents (Sayl).

Dec. 20. 7a.m. 29.80 758 63 - - 40 In small tent open to east. Morning clear. Few fleecy clouds: cool and bright. "Misri" from north-west; cold and rain.

3p.m. 29.92 759 78 - - 32 Hot in tents, cool in breeze. "Misri" high and strong sea. At 1.10 p.m. heavy clouds; expected rain--few heavy drops.

AT EL-MUWAYLAH AND RAS WADY TIRYAM.

Dec. 21. 6.35a.m. 30.02 763 71 - - 35 Inside tent. Full moon and clear. Dawn, 6 a.m.; night, 6.30. Speckled clouds.

Noon. 30.48 764 76 - - 48 Under umbrella. Air clear. Mottled clouds on mountains. Sea horizon. Low white bank of clouds.

3p.m. 30.05 763 77 - - 39 "Misri." High cirri from west. Big black cloud over sea. Suspected rain: Arabs said no. Cloud dispersed.

AT RAS WADY TIRYAM.

Dec. 22. 7a.m. 30.01 760 57 - - 32 Cold night. Clear morning. Cold sunrise. Dry north-wester. Instruments on paper, resting on the sand. Very dry.

Noon. 30.14 - 82 - - 22 Very dry. Straight streaks of cirri everywhere.

4p.m. 30.00 763 72 - - 17 At Wady Sharmá, on sand protected from west wind. Bright moon, showed halo.

Kayhak 14 begins the Coptic winter, properly speaking evening of 13th; after sunset 1 hour 51 minutes. Sea-breeze and land-winds regular to-day and throughout the month.

AT WADY SHARMÁ.

Dec. 23. 7a.m. 29.90 760 58 - - 19 Instruments on box standing on sand. Moon with halo at night. Red sunrise, grey clouds. Mountains blue-grey, brightly defined. Before dawn moon two halos, large and small. Fleecy clouds. Nine a.m. clear, sun hot.

2.30p.m. 29.15 740 78 - - 25 Under rock in upper Wady Sharmá. Streaky cirri. Sun hot; air cool. Little sea-breeze, kept off by hills.

Arrived at the "White Mountain," and stayed there a week.

4p.m. 29.12 740 75 - - 28 At Jebel el-Abyaz, on box behind tent sheltered from wind. Air quite still; streaky cirri. Camp Jebel el- Abyaz, say, 800 feet above sea. Felt very dry.

AT JEBEL EL-ABYAZ.

Dec. 24 7a.m. 29.10 738 61 - - 29 In mess tent on mess table. Cold. Mottled clouds east and zenith. Grey bank to sea reddened by sunrise, like storm clouds. Rain here from Azyab ("south- east"). Sunrise at Cairo, 6.55 a.m.

Noon. 29.00 737 64 63 55 33 Suspended instruments. Grey day: cold breeze from east. Cold comes only from wind; when no breeze, very mild. Getting greyer and colder. Very like rain-- heavey clouds.

3.10p.m. 29.00 737 64 64 52 28 Wind west, cold and raw. Air grey and cold. Evening cold; clouds dispersed, sun came out. Wind to west, inclining to north.

Small thermometer shows higher than Casellás because in brass case; not so well exposed to air.

Dec. 25. 7a.m. 29.10 739 50 50 45 29 Morning cool and clear.

Noon. 29.20 - 72 68 55 21 Very clear, still, and hot. Slight breeze from sea (west). Sun strong. Swarms of flies. Dry bulb in sun, 73 degrees; wet, 60 degrees.

3p.m. 29.16 741 72 69 54 15 Cool and gentle breeze from sea, dispersing the swarms of flies. At times "sand-devil" from north-west.

All this day's observations taken on writing table in large tent. Night cold: cold severest after two a.m. and before sunrise. Sky at night perfectly clear. Wind from north turning to east, a Barri ("land-breeze"). Height of Jebel el- Abyaz above tents, by aneroid = 350 feet (29.20 - 28.85 = 0.35).

Dec. 26. 7.15a.m. 29.21 743 48 46 43 22 In tent. Sky perfectly clear.

Noon. 29.26 - 76 77 55 6 Sun very hot. Air quite still. Fleecy clouds from west over the sun.

4.45p.m. 29.23 743 73 69 55 8 Sun cooler. Air perfectly clear.

Dec. 27. 7a.m. 29.16 740 50 49 43 5 3 In tent. Morning cold and clear: few flecks of cloud to east. Air feels intensely dry.

12.30p.m.29.23 743 77 74 58 9 Fine cirri high up. Sky blue. Sun veiled at times. Very little wind, a breath from north.

3.20p.m. 59.16 742 80 77 56 6 Sky with filmy white clouds, thicker at west. Sun hidden; very hot at noon (rain-sun?). Not a breath of air. Sense of intense dryness. Ink evaporates at once. Cool breeze started up shortly after 3.30 p.m. from west, then clouds thickened. Thermometer fell 4 degrees.

Cool evening; quite clear. Fevers and feverish colds begin to show themselves in camp. Minimum thermometer during night--No. 1, 45 degrees; No. 2, 46 degrees; French, 15-1/2 degrees (Centigrade).

Dec. 28 7a.m. 29.10 739 55 53 46 10 In tent. Still. Neither warm nor cold. Mottled clouds.

Noon. 29.13 740 78 72 58 4 Clouds thin. Sun very hot (rain-sun?). Light breeze from north-west.

3p.m. 29.10 739 79 72 58 - Feels intensely dry. Hot, close. Heavy clouds, and purple to west. Gusts from west.

No wind. Morning and evening very mild. At eight p.m. dark cloud moving from south-west to mountains. Drops of rain; then stars. Minimum thermometers during night, both 48 degrees. None of the maximum will act.

Dec. 29. 7a.m. 29.10 738 58 58 54 9 In tent. Cool, clear. Blue-pink in west. Light sea-breezes from west. Must be awfully hot in summer. In closed tent at eleven a.m., 92 degrees.

Noon. 29.13 - 77 75 60 10 Nice breeze from sea (west), bending to north.

4p.m. 29.00 739 82 79 59 5 Warm and quite still.

Mean of nineteen aneroid observations at Jebel el-Abyaz = 29.13.

MARCH FROM JEBEL EL-ABYAZ TO WADY SHARMÁ.

Dec. 30. 7a.m. 29.10 739 56 - - 7 Clear, still. No speck of cloud. Moon Náim (sleeping = *[figure]).

5p.m. 29.88 758 66 - - 8 Air quite clear. Camped at Sharmá. Change to shore pleasant and soft.

Noon on journey; sun very hot. Evening still. Violent weather at night; cold and comfortless. Abated somewhat after sunrise.

AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH.

Dec. 31. 7a.m. 29.88 758 59 - - 7 Wind cold and dusty. Sky perfectly clear. A few light mist-clouds on mountain-wall.

Noon. 29.94 760 75 73 58 6 Wind still. Sun much warmer.

3p.m. 29.90 - 74 71 58 3 Wind cool; some dust.

Clouds about sunset sailing out of Suez Gulf, forming archipelago of sky islets. Dark bank to south. Minimum thermometer at night = 42 degrees.

AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH (about 100 feet above sea-level).

Jan. 1. 7a.m. 29.90 759 53 50 45 10 Clear, fine, quite still. Nice breeze began about nine a.m.

Noon. 29.97 - 71 69 57 4 Cold. North wind high. Light clouds to west; the rest clear.

3p.m. 29.94 760 73 72 61 4 Clouds to west from Suez sea.

High wind fell before midnight. Cold--sat in tent. Flies troublesome everywhere. Minimum at night, 42-43 degrees.

AT WADY SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT.

Jan 2. 7a.m. 29.98 761 53 - - 10

3p.m. 30.00 762 76 72 58 3 Cool breeze from north. No signs of clouds. Sun hot and air cool.

Evening no wind, no clouds. At night high cold wind from east, seems to pierce clothes. Lasted till morning and sun well up. Minimum thermometer, No. 1 = 45 degrees; No. 2 = 46 degrees.

Jan. 3. 7a.m. 29.92 760 58 57 47 3 Dawn comfortless. Cold. Fire in tent. Sand blowing. Air highly electrical.

Noon. 29.90 762 77 76 61 2 Wind still. Hot sun.

3p.m. 29.91 759 76 74 58 4 Hot sun. Gentle breeze. Warm in tent.

Night very cold. Minimum thermometers, No. 1 = 40 degrees; No. 2 = 41 degrees.

Jan. 4. " 29.83 - 52 50 - 5

Noon. 29.93 760 81 80 60 3 Decidedly hot. No breeze.

3p.m. 29.90 - 78 75 63 0 Very hot and still.

In evening few fleecy clouds to south-west. Appearance of Azyab. Minimum thermometers at night, No. 1 = 36 degrees; No. 2 = 38 degrees.

AT WADY SHARMÁ.

Jan. 5. 7a.m. 29.90 - 48 45 43 6 Pink clouds south-west and south-east. Cirri everywhere.

Noon. 29.87 761 79 79 67 3 Hot and still. Clear; few cirri.

3p.m. 29.96 760 74 71 60 0 Cool wind. Cold in shade. Cirri to south, at times over the sun.

Very cold at night. Saw new moon; set in fire. Planets veiled in mist. Moon Káim (points upwards = *[figure]).

Jan. 6. 7.20a.m. 29.94 760 53 51 46 8 Still, clear. Light breeze about 10.30 a.m.

Noon. 29.80 761 82 - - 4

4p.m. 29.96 761 76 - - 3 Clear and hot. Sunset, red cirri. Water very cold. Moon clear.

Jan. 7 " 29.98 758 52 - - 18 At Sharmá. Cool and raw. Few clouds to south and south-west.

Noon. 30.08 764 78 - - 26 At 'Aynúnah, in big tent. Fresh wind from north. Air much damper; more pleasant.

AT 'AYNÚNAH.

Jan. 8. 7a.m. 30.11 763 55 - - 22 Morning still--windless Breath from east. Warm and pleasant.

Noon. 30.02 767 77 74 61 13 Quite clear and dry. Gusts of wind. Flies very bad, even in the waste.

3p.m. 30.15 767 77 76 63 7

Cold high wind at night.

LEFT 'AYNÚNAH.

Jan. 9. 7a.m. 30.04 - 63 - - 10 Outside tent. Light clouds everywhere at dawn. Morning warm and close.

Noon. 29.91 759 80 - - 48 At El-'Usaylah. Sky covered with clouds. Sun coming out.

4p.m. 29.87 758 53 - - 23 In tent at El-'Usaylah. No wind.

Cool pleasant night. Rain in Mount Sinai(?).

Jan. 10. 6.45a.m. 29.85 - 56 - - 15 Observations in open. Cold north wind. Clear and cirri.

3p.m. 29.30 745 77 - - 1 At Magháir Shúayb, under a tree.

Night cold. High wind; shook the tents.

AT MAGHÁIR SHÚAYB.

Jan. 11. 7a.m. 29.37 747 60 - - 20 In open, on box.

Noon. 29.40 748 82 - - 8 In tent.

3p.m. 29.38 747 84 - - -4 Still. Air hot.

As a rule, at Magháir Shúayb we had land-breezes; cold from north and east. Seabreezes during day, after noon.

Jan. 12. 7a.m. 29.35 746 59 - - 3 In tent. Cool. Cirri. At two a.m. cool fresh wind from north.

Noon. 29.46 747 83 - - -5 In tent. Hot sun. Light clouds.

3p.m 29.30 746 83 81 64 -9 In tent. No sun, no wind. Thin clouds.

Night warm; wind towards morning. Mosquitoes in tamarisks of Wady. Minimum thermometer, 52 degrees.

Jan. 13. 7a.m. 29.38 745 65 - - -4 Outside tent, on box. Cloudy; little wind. elt warm. Sun came out strong at ten a.m.

Noon. 29.27 744 87 87 67 -9 In big tent. Heat like summer. Flies troublesome, travel on our backs.

3p.m. 29.20 743 85 85 65 -15 Very hot. Thin clouds. Sea-breeze.

Very hot and sultry weather: Arabs say portends rain. Wind (generally) from north in morning; afternoon from sea.

Jan. 14. 7a.m. 29.01 740 63 63 55 0 In tent. Land-breeze set in. Expected heavy rain, and pitched camp higher up.

2.30p.m. 29.15 - 81-1/279 68 0 Taken by Mr. Clarke.

Rain began 2.30 a.m. (Jan. 15), small drops, then heavy, lull, and again heavy; ended about 4.30 a.m. A little wind from south-west rose after rain.

The last rain was on December 7-10, 1877; violent storms accompanied it.

Jan. 15. " 29.00 - 71-1/270 66 30 By Mr. Clarke at Magháir Shúayb. Sky all covered ; little clear to west. Mist all over north. Things feel damp.

Noon. 29.06 737 76 73 65 30 All cloudy. After rain, sultry heat of noon quite disappeared.

3p.m. 29.06 738 75 73 65 25 Still cloudy. Cool.

Cold nights and mornings.

Jan. 16. 7a.m. 29.20 - 48 45 42 18 No rain. Cold. Little wind. Cloudy. No wind.

Noon. 29.05 - 69 65 54 3 Sun hot. Cool breeze from north as usual. No clouds.

3p.m. 29.25 - 69 65 52 12

Night fine and clear. Stars and moon very bright.

Jan. 17. 7a.m. 29.30 - 42 42 39 17 Clear morning. Very cold. Land breeze.

Noon. 29.36 745 69 66 54 18 Fine stiff breeze from north-east.

3p.m. 29.34 745 73 70 59 16 Fine breeze falling.

Fine clear night, moon nearly full. No clouds. Not cold. Cool at night and towards morning. Wind rose about four a.m.

Jan. 18. 7.30a.m. 29.28 745 55 55 50 26 In tent. Cool, clear. Gentle land-wind.

Noon. 29.30 - 79 79 63 16 Same weather.

3p.m. 29.25 - 81 79 62 8 Night cool. Hardly any wind.

Jan. 19. 7a.m. 29.15 - 53 52 45 16 In tent. Cold wind from north.

Noon. 29.17 - 81 79 63 9 Sun hot. Cool breeze from north. Sky clear.

3p.m. 29.15 - 80 77 60 5

Remarkably warm pleasant night.

Jan. 20. 7a.m. 29.05 - 50 48 45 19 In tent. No wind. Air sharp.

Noon. 29.10 - 79 75 63 12 Light wind (south-west). Sun hot. Sky clear.

3p.m. 29.10 - 73 73 60 8 Cool and pleasant.

Curious moonrise. Thin clouds like volcanic smoke, separated into cirri like sheep-skin: all said sign of heat. Night still and warm. Few stratified clouds to west.

Jan. 21. 8a.m. 29.13 740 56 54 50 20 In tent. Cold raw wind (El-Ayli) from north- east. High clouds. Worse near Gulf.

Noon. 29.20 743 68 66 55 16 High cold wind, continuous. Bright sun. Sky intensely blue and clear.

4.15p.m. 29.22 744 66 65 53 8 Cool. High wind.

Strong wind at night; fell about midnight; gusts at times. Very cold. Bad weather at Sharm Yahárr. Fortuna ("strong wind") began January 21st, ended January 23rd: the next gale was on night of January 28th. As a rule, the people say; black clouds show that the wind will increase; light clouds the contrary.

Jan. 22. 7a.m. 29.32 745 50 49 45 15 Cold and cloudy. El-Ayli continues.

Noon. 29.36 748 66 62 52 11 High cold north-easter rose about 11.30. Sun warm. Air cold.

Heavy purple clouds to north and west. Night still; occasional gusts. Eight p.m. quite still. Mukhbir delayed by bad weather.

Jan. 23. 7.20a.m. 29.39 748 50 50 45 19 Gusts and calm. Nimbi to west. High north wind set in.

Noon. 29.40 747 66 64 54 14 Cold in shade, hot in sun. High wind.

4p.m. - - 66 65 52 9 Wind still high. Dust.

Night alternately gusty and still. Warm. Mukhbir steamed back to her anchorage, Sharm Yáhárr.

Jan 24. 7a.m. 29.29 745 55 52 47 15 Gentle breeze from north. No clouds--sign of no wind.

1.30p.m. - - 83 78 68 10 The normal hot, windless, cloudless day.

3p.m. - - 78 74 62 7 Pleasant sea-breeze. Sun hot; air coolish.

Night warm and pleasant.

MAGHáIR SHÚAYB TO MAKNÁ (March).

Jan. 25. 7a.m. 29.30 - 61 - - 15 On box. Fine, and perfectly clear.

Noon. 29.45 - 78 - - - On road to Wady Makná, riding mule. Sea-breeze about noon, strong. Shortly after noon heavy clouds (from north and west) hid the sun.

3p.m. 30.06 - 71 - - 23 Arrived at Makná, on box.

Warm pleasant night. Appearance of rain. Wind from north. Moon clouded.

AT MAKNÁ.

Land and sea breezes regular. Morning and evening cool. Noon hot. Evaporation immense. Healthy near shore; feverish up the valley. Damp air from neighbourhood of Mount Sinai.

Jan. 26. 7a.m. 30.02 - 68 - - 21 Cloudy. Heavy white waves on water. Wind west; dangerous for ships.

12.30p.m.30.07 - 80 77 62 21 Sun hot; sky clear. Light fleecy clouds on Sinai.

3.30p.m. 30.04 743 82 80 70 18 Air and sun hot. Clear. Sea-breeze. No gale.

Rain probably during the day in Sinai. Muttali, or "fort," of Makná showed aneroid 760 (29).

Jan. 27. 7a.m. 30.02 - 60 59 55 35 In tent. Fine clear; nice land-breeze. Rush of wind at two a.m. Wind at four a.m. Loud noise of reef.

1.30p.m. 30.04 - 80 76 68 28 In big tent, opening to south. Quite clear and bright. No clouds. Slight sea-breeze.

3p.m. 30.02 - 80 79 70 26 Hot and still.

Night glorious. No wind. Only sigh and sound of reef.

Jan. 28. 7a.m. 29.98 - 58 58 53 30 Perfectly still and clear. Light land- breeze.

12.45p.m.30.00 - 80 78 66 20 Weather breaking. Clouds forming everywhere. High horizontal cirri. North wind, whistling over country.

3p.m. 29.98 - 80 79 67 20 Packed up wet and dry bulbs.

At sunset high streaky cirri of red colour: all said wind. Same as at Magháir Shúayb (January 21-23). At eleven p.m. El-Ayli (north wind from 'Akabat- Aylah?) came down upon us with a rush. Gravel like drops of rain. Tents at once on the ground. Sky still clear--stars shining.

Jan. 29. 7.15a.m.30.02 - 62 - - 19 In tent-hut. Wind violent. Cold and raw between moonrise and sunrise.

Noon. 30.04 - 81 - - 13 In tent-hut. Wind (El- Ayli) gusty and violent. Sky quite clear.

They say this gale denotes end of Zamharir ("great cold"). Wind fell about three p.m. Mild at sunset. Wind then increased, and became very violent at night (l0-11 p.m.); seems to beat down from above. Summit of quartz-hills, 2 obs. = 29.40

Jan. 30 7a.m. 30.06 - 62 - - 19 In tent-hut. Mountains perfectly clear. Fleecy clouds to north and south, sailing from west to east.

3p.m. 30.06 - 72 - - 15 Clear and fine. Wind falling.

Wind fell during afternoon and evening, but rose again at night; was at its worst about eleven p.m.

Jan. 31. 7a.m. 30.06 - 67 - - 22 In tent-but. Wind worse; signs of blowing everywhere. Light clouds north and south. Mottled clouds (cirri, mackerel- back). Gusts violent after sunrise.

Noon. 30.08 - 73 - - 19 In cabin on board Mukhbir. Wind violent. Sky clear. White clouds, as yet wind increasing. Sand and dust but mountains clear.

3p.m. 30.09 - 78 - - 22 On board Mukhbir. Wind violent. Sky covered with grey clouds.

At sunset, gleams to west and round horizon; heavy to north. Hoped for rain, but none came. Fires alight all night. Very bad night; perhaps the worst yet seen. Chain dragging. At nine p.m. sky clear, but wind worse.

AT MAKNÁ, ON BOARD "MUKHBIR."

Feb. 1. 7a.m. 30.08 - 70 - - 21 Wind worse than ever. Dark cirri to south. Mountains clear on all sides.

Noon. 30.06 - 74 70 63 21 Wind very bad, turning to east (?). Cirri everywere: to west formed ascending rays like sun, extending to zenith; to east were crosses and lozenges.

3p.m 30.04 - - 70 65 - Wind still bad. White clouds have thickened to south, and thinned to north. Bases of mountains blurred (by dust?); summits clear.

At sunset wind lighter. Dark clouds to south, going westward from Suez. Cirri overhead, presently disappeared; also about the horizon. At night fine zodiacal light. Wind increased. Observations in main cabin throughout voyage.

Feb. 2. 7a.m. 30.00 - 69 70 65 22 Perfectly clear. Wind worse.

Noon. 30.00 - 78 - - 21 Clear sky; only cloud, thin white strata to north.

3p.m. 29.04 - 75 73 63 19 No clouds. Wind milder. Barometer falling (sign of wind ceasing?). Wind getting warmer, and bending east.

Wind less in evening, and warmer; ceased about midnight; lasted from eleven p.m., January 28, to midnight, February 2 = five days and five nights. Zodiacal light.

Feb. 3. 7a.m. 29.93 - 56 65 56 20 On deck (wet and dry bulbs in main cabin). Fresh breeze from east. Fleecy clouds south and east.

Noon. 29.96 - 74 - - 25 On deck. Fine breeze from north.

In evening cirri to west and east. Black dots in regular lines. Night at Minat Jinái. Very fine and clear; young moon and Venus. Deadly still. Zodiacal light seen every night in the 'Akabah Gulf: not outside it.

Feb. 4. 7a.m. 29.92 - 74 70 67 24 En route to Nuwaybi', along Sinai shore. Morning grey; light clouds everywhere. Dull brassy sunrise. Water dark. Wind south, felt very damp. Sinai hills clouded over: cirri strata high up; nimbi in fragments below.

Noon. 29.86 - 74 73 68 28 Under awning on board; going north. Sickly sun. Cirri to east.

3p.m. 29.80 - 75 73 66 26 Main cabin South wind strong, increased after noon. Clear horizon then. Sea foaming: wind became very strong, and raised water about sunset, then fell.

A regular day of south wind, blasts, mists, and gusts; calmed down in evening. Quiet night. All day cirri and strata high up from west. Wásit sand forming cloud.

Feb. 5. 7a.m. 30.00 - 72 68 60 9 En route to Kaláh (Jezirat Faráun of maps), in main cabin. Wind north. Clouds on hill-tops and to north-- effects of yesterday. East mountains misty; west clear. Mottle of clouds.

Noon. 29.94 - 73 70 61 7 On deck, steaming north. Dry and wet bulbs in main cabin. Clouds-- light cumuli to north, east, and west; south clear. Wind north, light.

3p.m. 29.97 - 75 70 59 19 In main cabin off island El-Kaláh. Violent gusts from west, down valleys- -deflection of south wind, lasted only few minutes. Cloudy and clear.

Night clear. Violent gusts from south, lasting a few minutes, then still.

ON BOARD "MUKHBIR," OFF ISLAND EL-KALÁH.

Feb. 6. 7a.m. 30.12 - 70 66 59 15 In main cabin. A regular raw and gloomy English morning. Clouds everywhere--drops of rain. Wind south, deflected west. Gusts at times. All felt damp and uncomfortable.

Noon. 30.10 - 70 65 59 26 In main cabin. Sky all covered with clouds. Wind from north, gusty. Barometer rising.

3p.m. 30.12 - 66 68 60 21 In main cabin. Sky covered; gleams of sun. Clear to south. Wind north, mild.

A few drops of rain morning and evening. Pleasant quiet night.

Feb. 7. 6a.m. 30.13 - - 62 57 19 In main cabin. Still; fresh air; no wind. Heavy clouds from west, covering east-west mountains. West mottled; north and south clear.

3p.m. 30.10 - 71 66 62 25 In main cabin. Cool breeze. Hot sun. Cloudy and clear.

Drops of rain at sunset. Wind west. Heavy rain twice at night; after midnight wetted deck. Rain at 'Akabah from west, with clouds and winds.

FROM EL-'AKABAIT, GOING SOUTH.

Rise of tide off El-'Akabah town, one foot.

Feb. 8. 7a.m. 30.20 - 56 63 61 3 On deck. Dry and wet bulbs in main cabin. At sunrise heavy purple clouds drifting over plain, covering hills on both sides. Cold, raw, wet wind. Rain on Sinai to north-west and south- west. Saw rainbow. Wind gradually turning to east (favourable). Play of light and shade over plains and hills.

Noon. 30.15 - 65 64 57 22 In main cabin. Glorious day. Blue sky; bluer sea. Strong breeze. Cloudy and clear.

3p.m. 30.16 - 67 65 58 25 In main cabin. After noon wind gradually fell, and sky cleared; became much warmer. Steamer (five and a half knots) beat the sailing tender. North perfectly clear; south and east, fleecy clouds. Sun clear and warm.

At sunset red cirri. Wind increased greatly. Waves following us, high and hollow. Bad night. Wind and water high. At midnight(?), rode with head to gale. February 9th, four a.m., turned south. Six a.m. stood for Makná (right angles, and nearly "turned turtle").

ON BOARD "MUKHBIR."

Feb. 9. 7a.m. 30.22 - - 64 26 26 In main cabin, off Sharm Dabbah. Sky quite clear. North wind colder than ever, yet we are going south. Beginning of dangerous gale which lasted till February 13th. Ugly hollow sea.

1p.m. 30.15 - - 66 58 28 In main cabin. Out of 'Akabah Gulf. Passed into a summer sea. Under lee of Tirán. On deck 63 degrees (F.).

3p.m. 30.11 - - 69 59 27 In main cabin, rounding south of Jezirat Tirán. Sky all clear, except wind cirri over 'Akabah Gulf and to west.

At nine p.m. halo round moon, and far from it--bad sign! Before midnight gusts began. Increased at one a.m. (February 10). At four a.m. very violent north wind from El-'Akabah.

Feb. 10 7a.m. 30.07 - - 69 65 30 In cabin of Mukhbir, south of Tirán. Water ruffled. Clouds everywhere. Rain on the coast. Felt raw. Mottled sky.

Noon. 30.03 - - 72 64 38 In cabin at Tirán. Sun out at nine a.m. Clouds and clear. Windy sky. Cirri to west and north- west. Dark clouds to leeward.

3p.m. 29.94 - - 74 65 25 In cabin at Tirán. Rain- storm to south-west. Wind north. Sky cloudy and clear. Cool breeze, not high.

At four p.m. a few large drops fell. Heavy rain at El-'Akabah and on east coast. Sand-veil over Sinaitic shore. Six p.m., wind gusty. Rain-clouds all over coast. Wind becoming warm. At 1.15 a.m. (February 11), terrible rush and fall of rain. Wind westing. Mild at first. Five a.m., hard Gharbi, threatening Azyab. All mist--could hardly see the shore.

Feb. 11. 7a.m. 29.82 - - 71 67 35 To windward of Tirán. Howling west wind. Sun like pale cheese. Aneroid falling. After seven a.m. the storm broke, and we narrowly escaped a wreck in two places, Tirán and Sináfir. Crisis of gale.

Noon. 29.80 - - 70 60 30 In Sináfir port, main cabin. Wind west, bending to south on falling.

3p.m. 28.20 - - 72 65 24 In main cabin. Mist and sand. English sun. Wind west and warm. Sea green and breaking.

At five p.m. the sand-mist began to clear off. Wind died away, then turned north and north-north-east. Light scud over moon, going slowly. Patches of blue, and stars. Barometer rising fast. Perfectly still night till midnight, when it began to blow, about the setting of the moon. At Suez, during the gale, red dust prevented ships seeing one another; and at Cairo trees were uprooted.

AT SINÁFIR ISLAND.

Feb. 12 " 30.13 - - 68 62 31 In main cabin. At 3.30 a.m. a violent Ayli, like that of El-'Akabah, began to blow. Gusts and shivering water. Swept off all sand-fog.

Noon. 30.17 - - 73 64 27 In main cabin. Howling wind. Sea less, because of ebb. Breeze fresh. Sky clear to south; few white clouds to north- east and west. Sun bright and warm.

3p.m. 30.14 - - 75 65 24 In cabin. Wind violent as ever, and cold from north.

During the night the wind blew from all possible directions; north-east, and at one time due west.

LEFT SINÁFIR FOR SOUTH.

Feb. 13. " 30.18 - - 66 60 36 In main cabin. Howling north wind till four a.m., then milder. Hardly a speck of cloud. Fresh cool air from north. Sea very blue. All sail set. Mist- clouds on tallest peaks of coast-range. Wind diminished as we went south. Cirri everywhere, zenith and on horizon.

Noon. 30.12 - - 69 59 26 On deck. Soft pleasant air; before cold and hard. Influence of El'Akabah. Thermometer on deck 69 degrees (F.).

3p.m 30.10 - - 71 62 20 On board. Sky milky everywhere with cirri. Wind north-west, going west.

Red sunset. Distant halo round moon--cleared off soon (a good sign), and not well marked. Light westerly gale (No. 2).

AT SHARM YÁHÁRR.

Feb. 14. 7a.m. 30.06 - - 64 58 22 In cabin (open). Splendid morning. Wind west, set in hard before noon. Milk-and-water sky. Should have been kept at Sináfir.

Noon. 30.04 - - 71 60 20 West wind increased. Sky clear; but SHÁRR Mountains cloudy-- condensing moisture.

3p.m. 30.02 - - 71 60 20 In cabin. North-west wind strong. Moved ship. Heavy black clouds on mountains.

ON BOARD "MUKHBIR" AT SHARM YÁHÁRR.

Feb 15. " 30.10 - - 66 58 30 In cabin.

Noon. 30.13 - 72 - - 35 In cabin.

3p.m. 30.14 - 75 - - 26 On deck. Clouds above the mountains.

Cold north-west breeze at five p.m. Sea high. Aneroid observations at Sulphur Mountain--foot, 30.14; top, 29.90; difference .24 = 250 feet.

Feb. 16. 7.30a.m. 30.23 - - 63 55 20 In cabin. Aneroid unusually high. Clear and cloudy at mountains. Cool air and light breeze.

12.50p.m. 30.23- - 64 55 20 Cool. Wind north. In cabin.

3p.m. 30.20 - - 66 56 18 In cabin. Cool. No clouds.

Splendid night. Not a sign of cloud. Cool. White streak on the water (milky sea, like that of Bombay, caused by fish?). Finest weather yet seen.

ON BOARD "MUKHBIR."

Feb. 17. 6a.m. 30.17 - 66 - - 15 In cabin. Cool, clear, splendid. Forenoon warm and still. Sea glassy.

Noon. 30.16 - 74 - - 20 In cabin. Sea-breeze came up strong at eleven a.m.

3p.m. 30.13 - - - - 23 In cabin. Sky clouded all the afternoon--did not see the sun. Moon veiled--not a nice look.

Night very cold (shivery). Wind Barri ("land-breeze").

IN MESS-TENT, OPEN TO EAST.

Feb. 18. 6.30a.m. 30.00 - 61 - - 14 Cold and clear. Land- breeze.

Noon. 30.04 - 78 - - 33 Sea-breeze setting; land-breeze stopped. Sky perfectly clear. Sun hot. No end of flies.

3p.m. 30.04 - 78 - - 22 Fierce and violent west wind--a Gharbi, or exaggerated sea-breeze? Sky quite clear.

Night quite still. Cold wind stopped at nine p.m. rather suddenly.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING SECOND MARCH TO THE HIMSÁ PLATEAU, SOUTH-EASTERN MIDIAN, BETWEEN FEBRUARY 19 AND MARCH 8, 1878.

The distance traversed comprised 222-1/4 statute miles, mostly through unexplored country.

On return compared aneroids:-- French .............................. 763 millimetres. My Casella .......................... 762 "

Difference .......................... .001 "

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Hygr. Remarks. Inches. (deg.)(deg.)

Feb. 19. 6.20a.m. 30.07 65 23 In big tent at El-Muwaylah. Cool land- breeze. Sky quite clear.

Noon. 29.82 74 23 At Wady Surr, under tree in sea-breeze. Clear sky, few white clouds. Cold land- breeze in Wady Surr at ten a.m.; cold sea- breeze at eleven a.m.

3.40p.m. 29.60 76 20 At Safh Wady Malayh (Malih), in big tent. Feels as if high up.

Night perfectly still, except a gust about midnight.

Feb. 20. 6.25a.m. 29.53 60 21 In big tent at Safh Wady Malayh. Clear and fine.

11.20a.m.29.40 73 43 Under tree at base of western Gháts. Fine cool sea-breeze.

3p.m. 29.44 78 17 At Sayl Wady el-Jimm ("water-gathering"). Hot sun. Cold sea-breeze.

Night cold, with land-breeze.

Feb. 21. 6.15a.m. 29.38 64 7 In big tent at Sayl Wady el-Jimm. Clouds to north and east; air damp. High wind and clouds.

12.45p.m.28.82 71 25 On march up Wady Sadr, under tree. Cold sea-breeze. Sky quite clear; sun warm. Awful east winds down these Wadys form the Goz or sand-heaps.

3.30p.m. 28.86 76 7 In small tent at El-Nagwah, in Wady Sadr. Sun hot; breeze cold.

Night cold, but not so cold as we expected.

Feb. 22. 6a.m. 28.86 56 8 In big tent at El-Nagwah.

11.50a.m.25.40 65 4 Under tree in Wady Sadr; say, 1600 feet high. White clouds. West wind (sea-breeze deflected to north) blowing. Here cold comes from wind.

3p.m. 27.80 74 3 In big tent at Amwáh el-Rikáb, Wady Sadr.

At four p.m. cold and clouds; cumuli and cirri. West wind deflected to north. At five p.m. thermometer in tent 66 degrees. Fire in tent. Night cold, clear, and still. A few gusts about midnight.

AT HEAD OF WADY SADR.

Feb. 23. 6.30a.m. 27.80 53 5 In big tent foot of Gháts. Weather lovely- -clear, fine, and cold. At eight a.m. sun warm, then cold wind.

1.30p.m. 26.88 72 5 In big tent. Cold easterly gale.

4p.m. 26.90 65 2 In small tent, same place.

Violent wind at midnight. Cold; thermometer 38 degrees.

Feb. 24. 6a.m. 26.95 48 0 At head of Wady Sadr.

26.15 45 0 To summit of Khuraytat el-Jils (Pass). Above the Pass, aneroid 26.25; below, 26.70: difference, .55 = 450 feet. Walked down in twenty-six minutes.

11.30a.m.26.18 56 0 In the open, under shade. Perfectly clear of clouds. Sun hot.

3p.m. 26.26 66 -2 In big tent on Hismá plateau (short descent to camping-ground). Air clear; sun hot.

Very cold when sun sets. Gusts from east at night.

ON HIMSÁ PLATEAU.

Feb. 25. 6.30a.m. 26.30 42 3 In big tent.

12.30p.m.27.84 74 12 At foot of Khuraytat el-Jils. Still, no wind; no clouds.

3.30p.m. 27.83 78 17 No wind; no clouds.

Night splendidly clear and still. Felt warm.

Feb. 26. 6a.m. 27.72 64 2 In big tent on Hismá plateau. Glorious orange-coloured dawn. Mild north wind. Moon in last quarter. At eight a.m. good breeze from north; at eleven a.m. cool and pleasant breeze from east.

Noon. 28.00 70 -8 On march in Shafah Mountains. Hot sun. Cold wind.

3p.m. 28.30 85 -4 Camp Majrá el-Ruways. In small tent. Strong west breeze in gusts.

Night glorious at foot of the two Passes.

Feb. 27. 6a.m. 28.10 65 -4 On ground outside tent at Majrá el-Ruways. Sky overhead quite clear; a few flecks to south, low clouds to east. At 8.30 a.m. wind south. Sun at first hot; then sky cloudy.

11.45a.m.28.48 80 3 At El-Rahabah, head of Wady Dámah, under tree. Fine sea-breeze. High white strata to north-east and south. No clouds elsewhere.

5p.m. 28.56 76 -5 Under thorn-tree at Wady Dámah. Fleeting cirro-cumuli.

Night very cold. Not a sign of dew till we returned on board Mukhbir.

Feb. 28. 6a.m. 28.50 44 -5 At Wady Dámah, on box in open. Clouds and sea-breeze at 8.45 a.m.

1p.m. 28.29 70 19 Under tree at Shuwák ruin. Thermometer in sun, 82 degrees. Bits of cumuli from south. At two p.m. furious wind and dust (sand-devils) scouring up valley from south, also deflected to west by Pass gorge. "Sand-devils" in Wadys Surr, Sadr, Dámah, Shuwák, and Salmá.

3p.m. 28.19 71 16 In big tent.

A few gusts during early part of night; the rest very still. Cold and clear.

AT SHUWÁK RUIN. Mar. 1. 6.45a.m. 25.30 46 10 Very cold; hands chilled. Land-breeze at eight a.m. At barrage (dam), aneroid 28.36.

Noon. 28.37 76 17 In small tent. Noon hot. Wind gusty--not regular and strong as yesterday.

3p.m. 28.34 77 6 In small tent. Sky clear; air still and sultry.

Mar. 2. 6a.m. 28.30 58 11 In big tent at Shuwák. Air still. Clouds to east. Afterwards sky mottled, windy striae. At seven a.m. rainbow without rain; thin cloud north of sun; perpendicular streak, brilliant enough: lasted twenty minutes.

9a.m. 28.75 66 - At Shaghab ruin. Sea-breeze at eleven a.m. Clear and cool. Day slightly cloudy; sun partly hidden.

3p.m. 28.60 86 15 In big tent at Majrá el-Wághir. Mild sea- breeze. Hot sun. High clouds.

Night windless, except few occasional gusts. Stars veiled. Grand zodiacal light (now the regular thing). Cool and pleasant.

Mar. 3. 6a.m. 28.55 66 14 At Majrá el-Wághir, outside tent. Sky cloudy; mist to north, "mackerel's back" to east. Sea-breeze at 9.30 a.m. in Wady Dámah.

Noon. 29.13 75 26 Under tree in Wady Dámah. Cool wind from south-west. A few clouds, getting gradually darker to west and south-west.

4p.m. 29.20 78 15 At El-Kutayyifah (camp) under a tree. Cool south-west wind.

6a.m. 29.30 63 16 Cold north wind. Sea-breeze at nine a.m, In big tent at El-Kutayyifab.

Mar. 4. 11.30a.m. 29.33 68 11 In shade of rock, Umm ámil.

4p.m. 29.63 80 10 In small tent at Má el-Badi'h, Wady Salmá. Cold, stiff gale: dust-laden sea-breeze up the ugly gorge.

5.45a.m. 29.50 60 13 At Má el-Badi'h, on box in open air. Air clear; thin threads to south.

Mar. 5. 12.30p.m. 30.06 84 -3 At Zibá, in big tent, open east and west, fronting the bay.

2.45p.m. 30.00 82 4 At Zibá, in small tent.

AT ZIBÁ, IN CAMP (our second halt).

Mar. 6. 6a.m. 29.92 61 15 In big tent. Rather heavy clouds to east and elsewhere. Sea-breeze began at ten a.m.

Noon. 30.04 86 10 In big tent. Air dull and heavy. "Rain- sun."

3.45p.m. 30.00 81 3 Sky quite clear.

Storm at sunset. Heavy clouds rising over arch from west to north: all said meant wind. At seven p.m. violent gusty gale; nearly blew down tents. Rushing and furious rain from north-west. Gusts lasted long. Fell about eleven p.m. Rose again very violently at midnight; then blew itself out. Followed by cold air. Rain lasted about one hour; damped the ground, and left deep puddles in the rock-hollows. Never had thunder and lightning in Midian.

Mar. 7. 6a.m. 31.12 58 15 At Zibá, on box. Cold and clear. A few clouds to west.

11.30a.m.29.96 74 19 At Jebel el Ghál, in shade in the open. Fine west wind.

Night and morning cold. On summit of Jebel el-Ghál, aneroid 29.75.

Mar. 8. 6a.m. 30.04 51 11 At Máyat el-Ghál (camp), on box.

March 8th is the 30th (last day of) Imshir (February), 1094. March 9th is the 1st of Barmáhát (March). See Chap. I. p. 22. In the early days of Barmáhát they expect the Husum or violent wind which destroyed the tribe of Ad. After seven nights and eight days begins the Bard el-Agúz, or "old man's cold." On Barmáhát 12 (March 20) is the Intikál el-Shams, or "vernal equinox;" after which the weather becomes warmer.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD "MUKHBIR" IN SHARM YÁHÁRR, BETWEEN MARCH 8 AND MARCH 12, 1878.

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.)

Mar. 8. 12.40p.m.30.08 74 - - 18 Main cabin, Mukhbir.

Mar. 9. 7a.m. 30.10 20 69 62 - In cabin.

12.30p.m.30.13 73 72 64 - Quite clear. Fresh sea-breeze.

3p.m. 30.11 75 74 64 - Clouds white and streaky everywhere.

In the evening clouds on hills and mountains, especially the SHÁRR; elsewhere clear. Red sunset, grand. At night dew heavy on board Mukhbir; gunwales wet in morning. Moon with kind of half halo round her. Night very hot--sign of coming storm.

At noon compared ship's (Mukhbir) mercurial barometer ......................... 773 millimetres. With my aneroid by Casella .................. 765 millimetres. And (Mr. Duguid's) aneroide ................. 765 millimetres. Difference .................................. -008 millimetres. On December 19, 1877, ship's difference ..... +007 millimetres. Difference .................................. +001 millimetres.

Mar. 10. 6.30p.m. 30.12 73 69 61 - In cabin. Clouds on SHÁRR like flights of birds, low-lying banks to south. Morning slightly muggy: no breeze.

Noon. 30.12 76 75 60 - In cabin. Gentle sea-breeze. Sky quite clear.

3p.m. 30.11 76 76 66 - Cool, pleasant sea-breeze.

Fine night, pleasant and cool.

Mar. 11. 6a.m. 30.10 73 68 65 - In cabin. Splendid morning.

Noon. 30.10 - 80 64 - In cabin. Glorious day; sea- breeze cool and fresh.

3.30p.m. 30.05 78 77 65 - In cabin. Sea-breeze lively and strong.

Mar. 12. 7a.m. 30.04 - 67 61 - In cabin. Warmish. Splendid sunrise on SHÁRR; cold to north, warmer tints in centre, and glowing red-yellow flush to south.

3p.m. 30.03 78 77 70 - In cabin. Fine cool sea- breeze.

Tides high and low (March) pier shows difference of three feet in rise, about the midlength of Sharm Yáhárr.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING EXCURSION (SECOND MARCH) ON AND AROUND THE SHÁRR MOUNTAIN, BETWEEN WEDNESDAY, MARCH 18, AND MONDAY, MARCH 18, 1878.

The distance traversed comprised 59 miles.

On return compared aneroids:-- French (left on board Mukhbir) .... 758 millimetres. My Casella ........................ 756 " Difference ........................ 002 "

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Hygr. Remarks. Inches. (deg.)(deg.)

Mar. 13. 6.20a.m. 29.96 66 23 On deck of Mukhbir. Cool land-breeze; hot at nine a.m. Sea-breeze at 10.45. At Wady Sanawiyyah aneroid 29.60.

3p.m. 29.26 82 13 Under tree (acacia, but shady). Grand sea- breeze from one to three p.m.

Warm night under the SHÁRR, stones retaining heat. Moon misty. Very heavy dew, like rain; wetted boxes; saw for the first time inland. Will last for some three months, and must greatly assist vegetation.

Mar. 14. 6a.m. 29.30 68 28 In big tent. All the sky clouded over as if rain coming. Sea-breeze 10.30.

Noon. 29.60 88 28 Camp at Safh Wady Kusayb. Cloudy and sultry all day. Little sun, except from nine till eleven a.m. Rain-heat; seems to threaten rain.

3p.m. 29.56 86 23 In big tent. Sultry-feels like storm.

At night, violent storm of wind from north-east, with nasty warm gusts. The people call it Sabáh, probably for Sabá, the "Zephyr"--the Bád-i-Sabá of poetry; also El-Farawi, because it blows at night. Big tent down in a moment, as at Makná. N.B.--No windstorm on the coast. At foot of Abú Sháar Pass, aneroid 28.80; at foot of quartz-vein (wall), 28.50.

Mar. 15. 6a.m. 29.50 76 1 In big tent at Safh Wady Kusayb, north- east wind still blowing. No dew in morning.

11.45a.m.29.22 93 -5 In Wady Surr. Curious windy cirri to west. Wind blew itself out in Wady Surr. Pleasant sea-breeze from south.

3p.m. 28.93 100 14 In big tent at Safhat el-Wúayrah, Wady Surr. Cloudy. Wind from south, a deflected sea-breeze.

ASCENDING SHÁRR MOUNTAIN.

Mar. 16. 6a.m. 29.86 70 2 On box outside tent. Morning grand; still, clear, warm, and dry. At seven a.m., going uphill, aneroid 28.20; at 7.35, half-way up, 27.70.

9a.m. 26.83 63 3

Noon. 26.70 82 - Under rock. Pleasant sea-breeze from north-east. Sun hot; day quite clear.

3p.m. 26.76 86 3 Shade of rock, summit of outlier. Strong wind from west.

Mean of two observations on summit of outlier, 26.79 = 3,200 feet above sea- level.

EN ROUTE TO THE COAST.

Mar. 17. 9a.m. 28.36 80 3 Under tree. Very hot sun that tired all. Breeze at 8.30 a.m.

11a.m. 28.76(?)93 - Same place. At summit of Pass el-Kuwayd, aneroid 28.13; in Wady Kuwayd, 28.20. Very small descent to 28.50, say 400 feet.

3.40p.m. 28.65 90 -9 In big tent.

ON THE RETURN MARCH TO SHARM YÁHÁRR.

Mar. 18. 4.20am 28.63 73 -4 Complete change of climate. No Khamsin to- day. Fine sea-breeze in puffes at 9:30 a.m.; came up strong about noon.

11.45am 29.43 91 5 Under tree in Wady el-Bayzá.

On March 17th began what our Egyptians called the Khamsin, and the Arabs El- Dufún (Bedawin, Dafún) generically; and specifically Dufún el-Suráyyá ("of the Pleiades""). Sky dark without clouds. At night, yellow clouds over moon. Gusts alternately hot and cold. Highly electrical; few could sleep at night. Tents left open. It was followed by damp and gloomy weather, which the Arabs attribute to the Intikál el-Shams ("vernal equinox"). This began on March 19th, and lasted till the 22nd. Aneroid falls lower than we have yet seen it.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR," BETWEEN MARCH 18 AND MARCH 20, 1878.

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.)

Mar. 18. 3p.m. 29.91 84 - - 24 In main cabin. A few light clouds.

Mar. 19. 7a.m. 29.83 - 70 64 - Under deck awning. Morning still, calm, and muggy. Clouds everywhere. Presently cool land-breeze came up. Regular Khamsin at eight a.m.

Noon. 29.80 - 79 71 - In captain's cabin. Cloudy and cool.

3p.m. 29.76 - 79 70 - In captain's cabin. Afternoon sultry. Wind Azyab, and from south. Seems to threaten a storm. Heavy clouds from west and north-west.

Mar. 20. 7a.m. 29.82 - 75 71 - In captain's cabin. Sultry, "juicy" morning.

Noon. 29.75 - 76 70 - Dark and cloudy. Cool wind from south-west.

4p.m. 29.80 - 76 68 - In captain's cabin. Sultry air; no breeze; nasty and damp. Cloudy all over. A storm somewhere (Alexandria? Suez?). Swell on sea, breaking on south reef; comes from north- west. Weather looks like that of Europe.

About eight p.m. a cool draught from north. No moon or stars. Expect it to end either in a gale or in heavy rain. It ended on morning of March 22nd, with a fine north wind; and at 9.10 p.m. with slight earthquake.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR," DURING VOYAGE FROM SHARM YÁHÁRR TO EL-WIJH, EL-HAURÁ, ETC., BETWEEN MARCH 21 AND MARCH 29, 1878.

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hydg. Remarks. Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.)

STEAMING SOUTH.

Mar. 21. 7a.m. 29.76 - 75 71 - In captain's cabin. Aneroid very low. Wind south-west. Ugly, gloomy weather. Mountains misty. Very slight roll in sea--became heavy in afternoon--mar vecchio (Bahr madfún). Bursts of half sun after nine a.m.

12.40p.m.29.84 - 77 71 - Aneroid rising. At noon sea quite calm and oily. Shortly after, sea-breeze from west set in. About one p.m. made sail; rolling began. More sun. Sails down. At two p m. rolling heavy, cross sea (mar vecchio).

3.30p.m. 29.85 - 76 73 - Damp increases.

After five p.m. sky clearer and weather finer, but still dark to south. Stars veiled.

IN MARSÁ DUMAYGHAH.

Mar. 22. 6.15a.m. 29.92 - 73 66 - In cabin. Morning cool. Wind north. Total change of weather. Sky clear, except cirri, and wind increased. White "horses" outside. All nature gay.

Noon. 30.01 - 79 65 - In cabin. Damp disappeared.

3p.m. 30.90 - 74 64 - Fine, strong, bright sea- breeze. North wind, threatening to blow hard. Cloudy and clear. Windy sky.

At 9.10 p.m. earthquake from north to south; lasted twenty seconds; followed by strong north wind, which lasted only a short time. So end the Equinoctials.

Mar. 23. 6a.m. 30.00 - 70 61 - At Dumayghah. In cabin. Glorious morning; cool, calm, bright. Zephyr from north. At noon a few wind-clouds and cirri to north and west. Very heavy rolling (mar vecchio) from north-west. Long waves.

3p.m. 29.98 - 74 65 - At El-Wijh. Pleasant, cool north wind. Afternoon cloudy and cold, as if wind came through rain.

Cleared in the evening. Saw stars.

AT EL-WIJH, IN PORT.

Mar. 24. 5.45a.m. 29.94 - 71 68 - In cabin. Grey, cloudy morning. No cold.

3p.m. 29.98 - 74 65 - In cabin. Fine north breeze. Warm sun. Air cool. Wind- clouds to east; the rest blue. Sky wondrous clear.

At 4.30 p.m. left El-Wijh, and steamed nearly due south-west. Fine breeze and long waves from north-west. Wind and waves fell. Rolled horridly from seven p.m. to midnight: no ballast; very bad steering: then turned south-east, and movement somewhat improved. Very heavy dew. Zodiacal light clear.

IN CABIN AT SEA.

Mar. 25. 7.30 a.m.30.04 - 73 68 - Marvellous fine morning. Wind north. Glorious day.

12.15p.m.30.01 - 75 64 - Near El-Haurá. Lovely day. Steady north breeze.

4p.m. 29.97 - 77 69 -

NEAR EL-HAURÁ.

Mar. 26 6a.m. 29.94 70 - - 36 In cabin. Red morning, warm and still. Sea oily. Light mists. Venus throws shadow. Very heavy dew--all wet.

12.15p.m.29.91 - 74 70 - Same place. Warm sun; cool breeze from north.

3.20p.m. 29.87 - 78 74 - At sea. Cirri and wind-clouds to east and nearly everywhere.

Weather fine, yet glass falling. Damp air. Hence (possibly) many have colds, coughs, and hoarseness. Wind-clouds, but clear to north. Dew very heavy.

RETURNING NORTH TO EL-WIJH.

Mar. 27. 7a.m. 29.87 - 73 68 - In captain's cabin Dew-clouds everywhere. Air very damp.

11.45a.m.29.98 - 78 70 - Air still and pleasant.

3p.m. 29.85 - 78 72 - Day decidedly hot and damp. Aneroid very low.

Mar. 28. 6.30a.m. 29.89 - 70-1/2 68 - In cabin. Dew wetted tents and decks like heavy shower. Sky all dew; air feels soppy. Violent wind from north-west. Ship rolling.

1p.m. 29.97 - 70-1/2 67 -

Mar. 29. 7a.m. 29.97 71 - - 33 In cabin. Strong, cold north wind. Men coughing like cries of camels. Sky very clear. This kind of storm is called Hawwá el-'Uwwah ("last storm of March"), and blows fourteen days. Followed by El-Ni'ám el- Kabir ("greater"), and El- Saghir ("less"); continues forty days.

6p.m. 28.78 74 - - 30 At Fort El-Wijh, two hours' journey up the valley.

Fine day on seaboard--not much gale. Wind north-west. Night cool, but no dew. Ship's barometer, 6 a.m., 30.7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F.) 64 deg. Ship's barometer, noon, 30.7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F.) 76 deg. Ship's barometer, 3 p.m., 30.7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F.) 76 deg.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING THIRD MARCH, FROM EL-WIJH TO EL-BADÁ AND BACK, BETWEEN MARCH 30 AND APRIL 11, 1878.

Compared ship's (Sinnár) mercurial barometer, 30.07 (64 deg. F.), with anerold, 30.01; difference, aneroid,--0.06.

On return compared ship's (Sinnár) mercurial barometer, 29.99, with aneroid, 29.86; difference, aneroid,--0.13.

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hydg. Remarks. Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.)

Mar. 30. 5.30a.m. 29.70 64 - - 24 At Fort El-Wijh, on box before tent. Cold and cloudy morning. Moon and stars veiled.

Noon. 29.55 90 - - 43 In camp at Umm el-Karáyát-- deep valley. Puffs of sea- breeze from south. Strong sun.

3.15p.m. 29.50 86 - - 29 In big tent at Umm el-Karáyát- -lat. 26 deg. 13'. Sun very hot. Fresh and strong sea- breeze from east (?).

Cool and pleasant night. No sign of dew. Climate healthy. Garrison at Fort El- Wijh in excellent condition.

Mar. 31. 5a.m. 29.44 45 - - 19 In big tent at Umm el-Karáyát. Very clear, still morning. West pink. At sunrise wind, and hot and cold puffs (south- east and land-breeze).

11.10p.m.29.46 90 - - -3 At Wady el-Kubbah, under tree. Very hot. Wind shifting from east to west (sea-breeze). Stones in sun so hot that they cannot be held. At noon regular Khamsin; air sandy.

Top of Jebel el-Kubbah, aneroid 29.34; in valley below, aneroid 29.46 (47?); height, 120 feet.

3p.m. 29.30 94 - - -20 At Máyat el-Dasnah. Hot west wind. Thermometer in big tent, unwalled.

Night cool.

April 1. " 29.30 63 - - -12 At Máyat el-Dasnah. Morning pleasant, still, and quite clear. No sign of dew or Khamsin. Hygrometer exceedingly dry. Sun rose hot. Slight breeze from eight a.m. to 8.30 a.m., when the rocks and stones have become thoroughly heated. Very refreshing: cools head; stops perspiration.

9.30a.m. 28.96 83 - - -10 At foot of Marú Rábigh, in shade of rock.

12.30p.m.28.92 99 - - -8 At Marú Rábigh, under big tent awning. About noon a medley of winds; hot blasts of Khamsin from south-west, suddenly changed to north.

3p.m. 28.88 100 - - -25 At Marú Rábigh. Hot sun. Wind in puffs, mostly south-west. No sand in air. Stones in sunshine too hot to hold; yet there are flies.

This is second day of Khamsin. Comes up about ten a.m.; wind either too much or too little. At 2.5 p.m. nearly blew tent down.

April 2. 5.10a.m. 28.98 70 - - -6 At foot of Marú Rubayyigh in Wady Rábigh. Morning perfectly still. All appearance of Khamsin. Light horizontal striae to north.

Noon. 29.15 92 - - -18 At Abú Gezáz valley, under tree. Much bothered by small flies.

3.10p.m. 29.14 100 - - -25 In big tent, which was again blown down.

Third day of Khamsin. All animals weak and worn out. Wind comes up later-- 11.30 a.m. to noon. Gives feeling of faintness and awful thirst. "Devils" (Zawábah) rose high in valley with electrical whirl. Evening lowering. Wind or rain clouds from west and north. Night still and cool. Threatening clouds east and west.

April 3. 5a.m. 29.20 65 - - -13 At Abú Gezáz valley. Morning cool (sign Khamsin gone). Sun pleasant. Red wind-clouds to north and east. At six a.m. pleasant, cool land-breeze from south.

Noon. 28.80 90 - - -16 At El-Badá, under palm-tree. Wind west. Milky sky, all white.

3p.m. 28.75 95 - - -24 In big tent. Regular Khamsin-- very nasty. Clouds to west.

Night still. Neither warm nor cool. climate fine. Colds and coughs disappeared.

AT EL-BADÁ.

April 4. 5.30a.m. 28.70 68 - - -7 On box outside tent. Traces of dew. White clouds. Looked regularly like a Khamsin day.

Noon. 28.74 90 - - 2 In big tent. No sun. Air muggy. White gleams. View poor; like rain. Strong blast from south-west. Heavy clouds west and north. Drops of rain fell three times between one p.m. and three p.m.

3p.m. 28.70 90 - - -8

At four p.m. in west a dust like general or prairie fire. A few drops of rain fell at long intervals--could not catch any for photographs. Broad parallel veins of white, red, and black cloud rising from east to west. Puffs of cold wind came on, soon growing to blasts; then storm came down upon us. No thunder or lightning. Kind of "dust-bow" in west (no rain), half the arc. Wind then turned north and felt cold and rainy. Heavy cloud-bank to west. Forms of mountains crept out of the brown and purple mist, half dust, half rain. All enjoyed storm. No rain for two years has fallen here. Rainbows at El-'Akabah (double) and at Shuwák (single). Cool and pleasant night, with dew. Mean of six aneroid observations at El-Badá, 28.78. After leaving El-Badá mornings and evenings delightful; sun warm in day; nights cool and pleasant. Dust at times.

April 5. 4.30a.m. 28.65 - - - -8 In big tent at Badá. Dust "devils." Great change after rain. Very damp.

3p.m. 28.58 86 - - -3 At 'Ayn el-Kurr, under shade of rock. Strong north wind.

Though all prophesied Azyab or "south-easter," this was perhaps the finest of all our days. Night cool. Cold wind at one a.m., of which all complained.

April 6. 5.45a.m. 28.59 58 - - 6 At 'Ayn el-Kurr, on box outside tent. White clouds to south. No wind. False sea- breeze at seven a.m.; true at ten a.m. Cloudy forenoon.

11.45a.m.28.90 84 - - - In Wady el-Kurr.

3p.m. 28.87 87 - - -3 At Wady Laylah, in big tent. Afternoon windy as usual. Puffs from west (sea-breeze), cold. Sky quite clear. Mountains milky.

Night cool, but not cold.

April 7. 4.15a.m. 28.80 60 - - +5 In big tent at Wady Laylah. Morning especially bright. Lucifer like a little moon. Breeze at eight a.m.

Noon. 29.39 54 - - +2 Wady Birkat, under rock. Going down seawards fast. Cool west wind. Good sea-breeze. Sky and sun clear--sun not unpleasant. Hot in sheltered bends.

3.10p.m. 29.46 81 - - 4 At Abál-Ajáj, under tamarisks.

Dew at night.

April 8. 5a.m. 29.55 60 - - 27 Outside tent at Abál-Ajáj. Cool morning; warmer at eight a.m. before breeze set in.

Noon. 29.94 83 - - 22 At the temple (El-Gasr), Wady Hamz. Sand-dust with sea- breeze, terrible at temple and around it. Eyes filled, clothes covered. Saw mirage-- well defined for first time.

3p.m. 29.90 52 - - 20 At Wady Hamz. Hygrometer damp on account of sea-breeze.

April 9. 4a.m. 29.92 70 - - 25 Still, clear, and beautiful, like all these mornings. Hot sun. Blue sea, glassy near the shore. Puffs of wind from east.

Noon. 29.90 96 - - -8 In big tent at Wady Mismáh. Cool breeze from north-cast. Heat strongly reflected from quartz. Vegetation dreadfully dry; plants look dead. Two bad years.

3p.m. 29.74 92 - - -18 In big tent at Abál-Marú. Another nasty afternoon. High west wind--sea-breeze, not Khamsin; tent almost blown down. Dust dreadful.

Evening charming. Night admirably cool.

April 10 4.20a.m. 29.74 - - - 0 In big tent at Abál-Marú. Splendid morning; few striae in east. Will be hot.

4.30p.m. 29.95 - 76 73 - On board Sinnár, captain's cabin. Pleasant afternoon. Cool sea-breeze.

ON BOARD "SINNÁR."

April 11.6a.m. 29.86 - 70 66 - In captain's cabin. Felt damp strongly after the Desert.

12.30p.m.29.87 - 78 74 - All complaining of heat (white heat); damp is the cause. No sea-breeze to speak of.

3.15p.m. 29.83 - 79 75 - White clouds everywhere. Curious wind-clouds, not a little like comets.

Heavy dew. Streets of El-Wijh wet.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STREAMER "SINNÁR," EN ROUTE FROM EL-WIJH TO SUEZ, FROM APRIL 12 TO APRIL 17, 1878.

Date. Time. Aneroid Dry Wet Remarks. Inches. Bulb. Bulb.

April 12. 6.20 a.m. 29.89 78 73 En route to El-Muwaylah, captain's cabin. Red sunrise. Clouds thin all about horizon. Looks like regular Khamsin day. Feels exceedingly damp.

12.20 p.m. 20.80 79 70 In dead calm. Sea oily, like mirror. No winds. Thin white clouds everywhere.

3.35 p.m. 29.78 81 76 In captain's cabin. Wretched day at El-Wijh and ashore. Very muggy.

At night a "bruch" (halo) of clouds round moon, and far from it. Expect storm. "Bruchs" round moon on 13th, 14th, and 15th.

April 13. Noon. 29.84 78 70 Anchored before El-Muwaylah. No dew in morning, and clouds everywhere. No sun seen. Very hot at noon. White clouds everywhere. Smoke of steamer hangs low. Mountains look very high. Muggy. Fine drinkytite.

3 p.m. 29.80 83 73 At Sharm Yáhárr. Hot and sweaty. Light west wind rose after noon; soon fell.

At night clouds and "bruch." Clear to north, thick to south.

April 14. 6.30 a.m. 29.82 78 72 At Sharm Yáhárr. Nasty muggy morning. Light north breeze set in.

12.40 p.m. 29.88 82 75

3 p.m. 29.85 83 76 Warm and cloudy.

Weather threatening. The same storm that found us at Makná last year.

April 15. " - - - Water flooded pier, and waves broke on shore.

April 16. " - - - Ran to El-Muwaylah. Had to return to Sharm Yáhárr. Furious wind from west (Gharbi) began about nine a.m.

April 17. Noon. 29.98 77 65 In captain's cabin, Sharm Yáhárr.

3 p.m. 29.92 76 65

Wind changed to north. Weather became cool and pleasant. Gale still, but shows signs of abating.

On April 18th weather somewhat abated. Stopped at El-Mawaylah to drop Sayyid 'Abd el-Rahim; and steamed off for Suez, where we arrived on 20th. Voyage very slow in teeth of north wind. Yet at Suez had had south wind for some days, and congratulated us upon the fact.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN BY MR. DAVID DUGUID, BETWEEN JANUARY 8 AND FEBRUARY 1, 1878.

(He used the French aneroide and the Centigrade thermometer bought at Cairo.)

Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. Millimetres. Centigrade. (deg.)

Jan. 8. Noon. 768 25 At Sharmá camp.

Jan. 9. Noon. 768 25 Ditto.

Jan. 10. Noon. 761 26 Ditto.

Jan. 11. Noon. 763 19 Ditto.

Jan. 12. Noon. 763 19 Ditto.

Jan. 13. Noon. 760 30 Ditto. Very hot.

Jan. 14. Daylight 760 20 (?) 755 25 Very hot. 8 p.m. 758 23

Jan. 15. (?) 757 21 (?) 757 25 Hot. Nightfall 759 20

Jan. 16. Daylight 762 18 Mr. Duguid marched from Sharmá to El-Muwaylah.

Jan. 17. Sunset. 768 25 On board Mukhbir at Sharm Yáhárr.

Jan. 18. Sunrise. 766 22 On board Mukhbir. (?) 766 23 Ditto. Sunset. 764 28 Ditto. Hot.

ON BOARD.

Jan. 19. Sunrise. 763 21 Noon. 762 25 Sunset. 763 25

Jan. 20. Sunrise. 761 21 Noon. 762 25 Nightfall 762 28 Hot

Jan. 21. Sunrise. 763 23 Bad weather at Sharm Yáhárr. Noon. 763 24 Sunset. 767 25

Jan. 22. Sunrise. 769 19 Mukhbir delayed by bad weather. Noon. 768 24

Jan. 24. Noon. 767 24

Mr. Duguid steamed out of Yáhárr for Makná. Anchored off Sináfir Island.

Jan. 25. Sunrise. 767 23 Reached Makná. Noon. 766 24 Sunset. 765 25

Jan. 26. Sunrise. 764 23 On board Mukhbir. Noon. 763 27 Sunset. 763 29

Jan. 27. Sunrise. 765 22 Ditto. Noon. 763 23 Sunset. 763 27

Jan. 28. Sunrise. 763 21 Ditto. Noon. 762 24 Sunset. 762 22

Jan. 29. Sunrise. 763 20 Ditto. Noon. 762 22 Sunset. 762 23

Jan. 30. Sunrise. 766 20 Ditto. Noon. 764 24 Sunset. 765 24

Jan. 31. Sunrise. 765 22 Ditto. Noon. 764 23 Sunset. 764 23

Feb. 1. Sunrise. 765 21 Ditto. Noon. 764 22

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "MUKHBIR," BY MR DAVID DUGUID (DURING OUR SECOND JOURNEY), BETWEEN FEBRUARY 18 AND MARCH 8, 1878.

Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. Millimetres. Centigrade. (deg.)

Feb. 18. 7 a.m. 764 18 Clear sky. Light breeze. Noon. 763 23 Same weather. 5 p.m. 764 23 Clear sky. Good breeze.

Feb. 19. 7 a.m. 764 20 Clear sky. Light wind. Noon. 764 23 Light wind. Few clouds in east. 5 p.m. 764 24 Clear sky. Light wind.

Feb. 20. 7 a.m. 765 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. Noon. 765 21 Clear sky. Light north-west wind. 5 p.m. 764 23 Clear sky. Light east wind.

Feb. 21. 7 a.m. 765 20 White clouds all round. Light east wind. Noon. 766 23 Few clouds to south. Light north-west wind.

Feb. 22. 7 a.m. 765 20 Few clouds to east. Light west wind. Noon. 764 22 Few clouds to east. Good north-west breeze. 5 p.m. 764 22 Few clouds to west. Light north wind.

Feb. 23. 7 a.m. 764 19 Clouds to south-west. No wind. Noon. 765 21 Clouds to east. Light north-west wind. 5 p.m. 765 22 Few clouds to east. Light north-west wind.

Feb. 24. 7 a.m. 767 19 Clear sky. No wind. Noon. 768 22 Clear sky. Light north wind. 5 p.m. 768 24 Same weather.

Feb. 25 7 a.m. 769 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. Noon. 769 22 Clear sky. Light west wind. 5 p.m. 768 24 Clear sky. No wind.

Feb. 26. 7 a.m. 766 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. 5 p.m. 766 20 Same weather.

Feb. 27. 7 a.m. 762 20 Few clouds to south. Light north-east wind. Noon. 762 23 Clear sky. Light north wind. 5 p.m. 761 25 Clear sky. Light west wind.

Feb. 28. 5.p.m. 764 23 Heavy clouds to west. Strong west wind.

Mar. 1. 7 a.m. 767 20 Few clouds in south. Light north wind. Noon. 767 23 Clear sky. Good north-west breeze. 5 p.m. 765 22 Few clouds to west. Light wind from west.

Mar. 2. 7 a.m. 765 20 Clouds all round. Light east wind. Noon. 765 23 Clouds all round. Light west wind. 5 p.m. 764 24 Clouds all round. Light north wind.

Mar. 3. 7 a.m. 762 20 Few clouds to east. No wind. Noon. 763 22 Few clouds to south. Good north-west breeze. 5 p.m. 763 23 Few clouds to north. Good west breeze.

Mar. 4. 7 a.m. 767 21 Clear sky. Light breeze from east. Noon. 768 23 Clear sky. Light breeze from west. 5 p.m. 767 24 Clear sky. Light breeze from north.

Mar. 5. 7 a.m. 764 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. Noon. 764 22 Clear sky. Good breeze from east. 5 p.m. 762 25 Light clouds all round. North-west wind.

Mar. 6. 7 a.m. 763 20 Heavy clouds to east. Light east wind. Noon. 763 23 A few clouds to east. Light west wind. 5 p.m. 762 24 Dark clouds all round. Strong west wind. At ten p.m. gale from west, with some flashes of lightning.

Mar. 7. 7 a.m. 766 19 Clouds to south. Wind north. Noon. 767 23 Clear sky. Good breeze from north-west. 5 p.m. 766 24 Clear sky. Wind north.

Mar. 8. 7 a.m. 763 19 Clear sky. Light east wind. Noon. 763 23 Clear sky. Light west wind.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "MUKHBIR," BY MR. DAVID DUGUID (DURING OUR WEEK IN EL- SHÁRR), BETWEEN MARCH 13 AND MARCH 19, 1878.

Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. Millimetres. Centigrade. (deg.)

Mar. 13. 6 a.m. 762 25 Clear sky. Good breeze. Wind west. Noon. 761 26 Clear sky. Light breeze. Wind west.

Mar. 14. 6 a.m. 762 21 Light clouds all over. Wind east. Light breeze. Noon. 764 24 Same cloudy weather, but wind from east (?). 3 p.m. 763 26 Light clouds all round. Wind west and light.

Mar. 15. 6 a.m. 762 21 A few clouds to south. Wind east and light. Noon. 761 26 Light clouds all round. Moderate breeze from west. 3 p.m. 760 27-1/2 Same weather.

Mar. 16. 6 a.m. 760 24 A few clouds to south. Light east wind. Noon. 760 26 Clear sky. Wind south-west. Light breeze. 3 p.m. 759 29 Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze.

Mar. 17. 6 a.m. 759 24 Clear sky. Light breeze from east. Noon. 760 26 Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze. 3 p.m. 760 27 Same weather.

Mar. 18. 6 a.m. 760 23 Same weather, by wind west. Noon. - - Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze.

Mar. 19. 6 a.m. 759 23 Few clouds to north. Wind east, and very light. Noon. 758 19 Clouds to north-west. Good breeze from west. 3 p.m. 758 29 Clouds all round. Wind south-west. Good breeze.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR," BY CAPTAIN NÁSIR AHMED, BETWEEN MARCH 29 AND APRIL 10, 1878.

Date. Time. Mercurial Thermometer. Remarks. Barometer. Fahr.

Mar. 29. 6 a.m. 30.7 64 Noon. 30.7 76 3 p.m. 30.7 76

Mar. 30. 6 a.m. 30.00 61 White clouds to north-east. Wind north-east. Noon. 30.05 77 3 p.m. 30.00 80 Air very damp from noon to sunset. Wind west.

Mar. 31. 6 a.m. 29.9 63 Wind north-east. Never saw barometer so low. Noon. 30.00 80 Dry and fine. 3 p.m. 29.98 82

April 1. 6 a.m. 29.94 66 Wind east. Fine day. Noon. 29.95 83 3 p.m. 29.92 83 Damp from noon to sunset.

April 2. 6 a.m. 29.90 68 Wind east. Fine day. Noon. 30.00 80 Damp. 3 p.m. 29.90 81 Red clouds at sunset.

Gale of wind at El-Wijh from north-east, began at seven p.m. Ship under shelter. Rain for half an hour.

April 3. 6 a.m. 30.00 69 Wind north. Noon. 30.20 80 Damp. 3 p.m. 30.00 79 Wind north-west at sunset.

April 4. 6 a.m. 30.00 73 Wind north-west. Noon. 30.03 76 Wind north-west all day. 3 p.m. 30.00 77

Storm on seaboard. Heavy clouds, wind, and gale all day from north-west. Sinnár rolling.

April 5. 6 a.m. 29.93 66 Wind north-west. Noon. 30.00 76 Wind north-west. 3 p.m. 30.00 75 Fine day.

April 6. 6 a.m. 29.93 62 Wind north. Noon. 30.00 74 Wind north-west. 3 p.m. 30.00 74 Same weather.

April 7. 6 a.m. 29.94 64 Wind north. Noon. 30.00 79 Fine day. 3 p.m. 30.00 76 Wind north-west from noon to sunset. Fine weather.

April 8. 6 a.m. 30.02 61 Wind east. Noon. 30.04 73 Fine day. 3 p.m. 30.04 78 From noon to sunset, fine but damp.

April 9. 6 a.m. 30.04 68 Wind east. Noon. 30.06 77 3 p.m. 30.06 81 Damp from noon to sunset.

April 10. 6 a.m. 30.06 64 Wind north. Fine day. Damp and north-west wind from noon to sunset.

CAIRO.

Reaching Cairo, I found Dr. T. E. Maclean from Thebes, with good instruments. He kindly compared mine with his, and gave me the following results:--The difference between my aneroid (Casella) and his is very slight, varying generally from 0.05 to -0.10. He advises me to neglect this slight difference. The dry bulb is, on the whole, a little higher than his; and we have not sufficient observations for the wet bulb. The pocket thermometer wants correction; it reads from +1 deg. to +2 deg. 15'.

LIST OF OBSERVATIONS.

N&Z = Negretti and Zambra No obs. = No observation.

Date. Time. N&Z's My Differ- Casellás Differ- N&Z's Casellás Differ- N&Z's Casellás Differ- (1878) standard Casella. ence for portable ence for dry bulb. dry bulb. ence. wet wet ence for aneroid. correc- thermo- correc- No. bulb. bulb. correc- No.1140. tions. meter tions. 39,518. tions. (deg.).

April 28. 12.30p.m. No obs. No obs. - 91 -1.6 89.4 90.0 -0.6 71.75 71.0 +0.75 3p.m. No obs. No obs. - 84 -2.1 81.9 82.5 -0.6 69.0 69.0 0.0 6.30p.m. No obs. No obs. - 73 -2.5 70.5 71.0 -0.5 61.0 61.0 0.0

April 29. 9a.m. No obs. No obs. - 69 -2.4 66.6 67.0 -0.4 59.1 59.0 +0.1 11.30p.m. 29.796 29.850 -.054 77.5 -2.0 75.5 76.0 -0.5 63.5 64.0 -0.5 3p.m. 29.755 29.752 +.003 77.5 -1.5 76.0 76.0 0.0 62.75 62.0 -0.75

April 30. 9a.m. 29.828 29.850 -.022 67.5 -2.15 65.0 66.0 -1.0 59.5 60.5 -1.0 12.30p.m. 29.822 29.850 -.028 76 -1.5 74.5 75.0 -0.5 63.75 63.5 +0.25 3p.m. 29.799 29.802 -.003 77 -2.0 75.0 73.5 -0.5 64.0 58.0 +1.5

May 1. 9a.m. 29.959 30.100 -.141 66.5 -1.75 64.75 65.5 -0.75 57.5 58.0 -0.5 12.30p.m. 29.945 29.952 -.007 76 -2.5 73.5 74.5 -1.0 61.5 62.0 -0.5 3p.m. 29.984 29.902 +.082 77.5 -1.75 75.75 76.5 -0.75 61.75 61.5 +0.25

May 2. 9a.m. 30.051 30.102 -.051 66 -1.25 64.75 65.0 -0.25 58.0 58.5 -0.5 12.30p.m. 29.978 30.000 -.022 78 -2.0 76.0 76.0 0.0 63.0 66.5 -2.5 3p.m. 29.936 29.950 -.014 78 -1.5 76.5 No obs. - 63.75 No obs. -

May 3. 9a.m. 29.961 29.952 +.009 71.5 -1.5 70.0 No obs. - 58.5 No obs. - 12.30p.m. 29.880 29.900 -.020 83 -2.5 80.5 81.0 -0.5 63.23 62.0 +1.25 3p.m. 29.820 29.850 -.030 83 -1.1 81.9 82.5 -0.6 62.0 62.5 -0.5

May 4. 9a.m. 29.716 29.750 -.024 71.5 -1.25 70.25 71.0 -0.75 63.25 63.0 +0.25 12.30p.m. 29.679 29.700 -.021 89.5 -1.25 87.75 88.0 -0.25 70.25 69.5 +0.75 3.30p.m. 29.617 29.650 -.033 89.5 -1.0 88.5 89.0 -0.5 70.0 69.0 +1.0

May 5. 9.30a.m. 29.586 29.600 -.014 76.5 -1.5 75.0 No obs. - No obs.No obs. - 12.30p.m. No obs. No obs. - 83 -2.0 81.0 82.0 -1.0 69.75 68.5 +1.25 3p.m. 29.603 29.602 -.001 82 -1.5 80.5 81.0 -0.5 69.0 67.0 +2.0

May 6. 9a.m. 29.780 29.800 -.020 70 -1.75 68.25 69.0 -0.75 63.0 63.0 0.0 12.30p.m. 29.785 29.800 -.015 77 -2.0 75.0 76.0 -1.0 65.25 65.0 +0.25 3p.m. 29.778 29.800 -.022 79 -2.0 77.0 77.5 -0.5 67.5 66.0 +1.5

May 7. 9a.m. 29.854 29.850 +.004 67 -2.0 65.0 66.0 -1.0 60.75 61.0 -0.25 12.30p.m. 29.822 29.802 -.020 80.5 -1.5 79.0 79.0 0.0 66.0 65.0 +1.0

Endnotes:

[EN#1] The word is explained in my "Itineraries," part ii. sect. 3.

[EN#2] See Appendix IV. "Botanical Notes."

[EN#3] "Opens," i.e. the door for a higher price: it is the usual formula of refusing to sell.

[EN#4] Chap. XVI.

[EN#5] The Saturday Review, in a courteous notice of my first volume (May 25, 1878), has the following remarks:--"The Arabs talk of some (?) Nazarenes, and a 'King of the Franks,' having built the stone huts and the tombs in a neighbouring cemetery ('Aynúnah). But there can be no local tradition worth repeating in this instance." Here we differ completely; and those will agree with me who know how immutable and, in certain cases, imperishable Arab tradition is. The reviewer, true, speaks of North Midian, where all the tribes, except the Beni 'Ukbah, are new. Yet legend can survive the destruction and disappearance of a race: witness the folk-traditions of the North-Eastern Italians and the adjacent Slavs. Here, however, in South Midian we have an ancient race, the Baliyy. And what strengthens the Christian legend is that it is known to man, woman, and child throughout the length and breadth of the land.

[EN#6] In Sinai "Shinnár" is also applied to a partridge, but I am unable to distinguish the species--caccabis, Desert partridge, (Ammoperdix heyi, the Arab Hajl), or the black partridge (Francolinus vulgaris).

[EN#7] Chap. IX. has already noticed Ptolemy's short measure.

[EN#8] Chap. XVII.

[EN#9] Helix desertorum (Forsk.) and Helix (sp. incert.)

[EN#10] See "The Gold Mines of Midian,'' Chap. II.

[EN#11] So in Moab the ruins of "Méron" or Mérou of the Greeks has degenerated into Umm Rasás, "the Mother of Lead."

[EN#12] Their names will be given in Chap. XIII.

[EN#13] A. G., p. 24. See "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. XI. Sprenger spells the word either with a Zád or a Zá: I have discussed the question in my "Itineraries," part ii. sect. 4.

[EN#14] See the end of this Chapter for a list.

[EN#15] See Chap. XIV.

[EN#16] "Irwin's Voyage," 1777.

[EN#17] This was probably a misprint originally, but it has been repeated in subsequent editions. Hence it imposed upon even such careful workmen as the late Lieutenant Henry Raper, "The Practice of Navigation," etc., p. 527, 6th edition.

[EN#18] See an excellent description of the phenomenon in that honest and courageous work, "Through Bosnia and the Herzegovina on Foot," by Arthur J. Evans, B.A., F.S.A. London: Longmans, 1877.

[EN#19] There is, however, nothing to prevent its being eaten.

[EN#20] See Chap. X.

[EN#21] Chap. X.

[EN#22] Not to be confounded with the luguminous "Tanúb" mentioned by Forskâl ("Flora," etc., p. 197).

[EN#23] The word classically means the cypress or the juniper-tree: in Jeremiah, where it occurs twice (xvii. 6 and xlviii. 6), the Authorized Version renders it by "heath." It is now generally translated "savin" (Juniperus sabina), a shrub whose purple berries have a strong turpentine flavour. When shall we have a reasonable version of Hebrew Holy Writ, which will retain the original names of words either untranslatable or to be translated only by guess-work?

[EN#24] In Cairo generally called Espadrilles, and sold for 1.25 francs. Nothing punishes the feet at these altitudes so much as leather, black leather.

[EN#25] The explorers laid this down at a few hundred feet. But they judged from the eye; and probably they did not sight the true culmination. Unfortunately, and by my fault, they were not provided with an aneroid.

[EN#26] See Chap. V.

[EN#27] For the usual interpretations see Chapter I. The Egyptians, like other nations, often apply their own names, which have a meaning, to the older terms which have become unintelligible. Thus, near Cairo, the old goddess, Athor el-Núbí ("of the Gold"), became Asr el-Nabi ("the Footprint of the Apostle").

[EN#28] "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. XI.

[EN#29] See Chap. XI.

[EN#30] Chap. XII.

[EN#31] Chap XV.

[EN#32] Chap. XV.

[EN#33] Vol. ii. Chap. X. I have also quoted him in "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. VI.

[EN#34] My "Pilgrimage" (Vol. I. Chap. XI.) called it "Sherm Damghah": it is the "Demerah" of Moresby and the "Demeg" of 'Ali Bey el-'Abbási (the unfortunate Spaniard Badia).

[EN#35] See "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. VII.

[EN#36] The old being the classical (Iambia Vicus), in north lat. 24°. This is Yambú' el-Nakhil, in Ptolemy's time a seaport, now fifteen miles to the north-east (north lat. 24° 12' 3"?) of the modern town. The latter lies in north lat. 24° 5' 30" (Wellsted, ii. II), and, according to the Arabs, six hours' march from the sea.

[EN#37] Vol. I. pp. 364, 365.

[EN#38] "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. IX.

[EN#39] Chap. VI. describes one of the sporadic (?) outcrops near Tayyib Ism; and Chap. IX notices the apparently volcanic sulphur-mount near El-Muwaylah.

[EN#40] See Chap. IX.

[EN#41] "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. XII.

[EN#42] See "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. VIII.

[EN#43] "Pilgrimage," Vol. I. Chap. XI.

[EN#44] In "The Gold Mines of Midian" (Chap. IV.) I unconsciously re-echoed the voice of the vulgar about "the harbour being bad and the water worse" at El-Wijh.

[EN#45] This style of writing reminds me of the inch allah (Inshallah!) in the pages of a learned "war correspondent"--a race whose naive ignorance and whose rare self-sufficiency so completely perverted public opinion during the Russo-Turkish war of 1877-78.

[EN#46] Not Shaykh Hasan el-Marábit--"Pilgrimage," Vol. I. Chap. XI.

[EN#47] "Pilgrimage," Vol. I. Chap. XI., where it is erroneously called "Jebel Hasan;" others prefer Hasa'ni--equally wrong. Voyagers put in here to buy fish, which formerly was dried, salted, and sent to Egypt; and, during the Hajj season, the Juhaynah occupy a long straggling village of huts on the south side of the island.

[EN#48] There are now no less than three lines of steamers that connect the western coast of Arabia with the north. The first is the Egyptian Company, successively called Mejidíyyah, Azízíyyah, and Khedivíyyah, from its chief actionnaire: the packets, mostly three-masted screws, start from Suez to Jeddah every fortnight. Secondly, the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd which, with the subvention of £1400 per voyage, began in 1870 to ply monthly between Constantinople, Port Sa'íd, Suez, Jeddah, and Hodaydah: it has been suspended since the beginning of the Russo-Turkish war. Thirdly, the British India Steam Navigation Company sends every three weeks a ship from London viâ the Canal to Jeddah, Hodaydah, and Aden. A fourth is proposed; Bymen's (Winan's?) steamers are establishing a London-Basrah (Bassorah) line, in whose itinerary will be Jeddah.

[EN#49] The observation was taken on board the Sinnár, by the first lieutenant Násir Effendi Ahmed: of course I am not answerable for its correctness, although the latitude cannot be far out. Thus the difference of parallel between it and El-Wijh (north lat. 26° 14') would be sixty-eight direct geographical miles.

[EN#50] Beni Kalb: so the Juhaynah were called in the Apostle's day.

[EN#51] The site was probably near the Shaykh's tomb, where there are wells which in winter supply water.

[EN#52] This is the volume which I have translated: see also Dr. Beke's papers in the Athenæum (February 8 and 15, 1873).

[EN#53] See "Mount Sinai a Volcano" (Tinsleys). For a list of Yakut's volcanoes, see Dr. Beke, "Sinai in Arabia," Appendix, p. 535.

[EN#54] Vol. II. p. 187.

[EN#55] "The Gold-Mines of Midian," p. 213.

[EN#56] As regards these and similar graffiti see (Athenaeum, March 16, 1878) an excerpt from the last Comptes Rendues of the Acad. des Inscript. et B. Lettres, Paris. The celebrated M. Joseph Halévy attacked in their entirety (about 680) the rock-writings in the Safá desert, south-east of Damascus. The German savants, mostly attributing them to the Sabá tribes, who immigrated from Yemen about our first century, tried the Himyaritic syllabaries and failed. M. Halévy traces them to the Beni Tamúd (Thamudites), who served as mercenaries in the Roman army, and whose head-quarters we are now approaching. They contain, according to him, mostly proper names, with devotional formulae, similar to those of the Sinaitic inscriptions and the Kufic and later epigraphs which we discovered. For instance, "By A., son of B., in memory of his mother; he has accomplished his vow, may he be pardoned." The language is held to be intermediate between Arabic and the northern Semitic branches. Names of the Deity (El and Loo or La'?) are found only in composition, as in Abd-El ("Abdallah, slave of El"); and the significant absence of the cross and religious symbols remarked in the Syrian inscriptions, denotes the era of heathenism, which lasted till the establishment of Christianity, about the end of the third century. "At that time," M. Halévy says, "Christianity became the official religion of the Empire; doubt and scepticism penetrated amongst those Arabic tribes which were the allies of Rome, and amongst whom, for a certain time, a kind of vague Deism was prevalent until the day when they disappeared, having been absorbed by the great migrations which had taken place in those countries."

[EN#57] Some call it so; others Umm Karáyát: I have preferred the former--"Mother of the Villages," not "of Villages"--as being perhaps the more common.

[EN#58] See Chap. XIX.

[EN#59] Vol. II. Chap. X.

[EN#60] This rock, assayed in England, produced no precious metal. As has been said, gold was found in its containing walls of quartz.

[EN#61] This is the valley confounded by Wallin and those who followed him (e.g. Keith Johnston) with the Wady Hamz, some forty miles to the south.

[EN#62] See the illustration, "Desert of the Exodus," p. 306.

[EN#63] Vol. II. Chap. X.

[EN#64] Described in "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. XII.

[EN#65] Chap. XVIII.

[EN#66] The barbarous names, beginning from the west, are Jebels Sehayyir, 'Unká ("of the griffon"), Marákh (name of a shrub), Genayy (Jenayy), El-Hazzah, El-Madhanah, Buza'mah, and Urnuwah.

[EN#67] Dr. C. Carter Blake examined the four brought home, and identified No. 1, superior pharyngeal bone and teeth (Scarus); No. 2, inferior bone and teeth of a large fish allied to Labrus or Chrysophrys; No. 3, left side, pre-maxillary, possibly same species; and No. 4, lower right mandible of Sphœrodon grandoculis, Rüppell.

[EN#68] The MS. of this geographer was brought to light by Professor Sprenger, and Part I. has been published by Professor de Goeje in his "Bibliotheca Geographarum Arabicorum," here alluded to.

[EN#69] We have seen (Chap. II.) that the Arabs of Midian mistake iron for antimony; and the same is the case in the Sinaitic Peninsula.

[EN#70] Ahmed Kaptán's solar observation.

[EN#71] Written in pleasant memory of two visits to Uriconium, the favourite "find" of poor Thomas Wright, under the guidance of our steadfast and hospitable friend, Mr. Henry Wace, of Brooklands, Shrewsbury.

[EN#72] The capital was also transported to Cairo; it could not have been voluted as there were only two projections.

[EN#73] Lib. xvi. c. iv. § 24. The MSS. differ in the name of the "village situated on the sea;" some call it Egra, others Negra, after the inland settlement; and the commentator Kramer remarks, Mire corrupta est h?c ultima libri pars.

[EN#74] North lat. 26°, which would correspond with that of the Abá'l-Maru' ruins.

[EN#75] My friend Sprenger strongly protests against Ælius Gallus, begging me to abandon him, as the Romans must long have held the whole coast to El-Haurá, their chief settlement.

[EN#76] For a specimen of the superficiality which characterizes Lane's "Modern Egyptians," and of the benefits which, despite the proverbial difficulty of changing an old book into a new one, an edition, much enlarged and almost rewritten, would confer upon students, see Vol. III. Chap. XXI. Instead of a short abstract of all this celebrated story, we have only popular excerpts from the first volume.

[EN#77] On the maritime road between Meccah and El-Medínah, celebrated for the apostolic battle which took place in A.H. 2.

[EN#78] The names marked with interrogations are unknown to all the Arabs whom I consulted : they are probably obsolete.

[EN#79] Identified by Niebuhr and Wellsted with certains ruins south of Yambú'. See Chap. IV.

[EN#80] The straight path, the highway to Egypt or Cairo.

[EN#81] Elsewhere called Sukyat Yezíd, a name now forgotten.

[EN#82] I have remarked that the name of the Patriarch Jacob is no longer connected with the Badá plain.

[EN#83] Schweinfurth (the Athenæum, July 6, 1878) speaks of a "Wadi Abu Marwa ('Quartz Valley')" south of the Galalah block.

[EN#84] Chap. IX.

[EN#85] A paper describing our "finds" was read before the Anthropological Section of the British Association Meeting at Dublin on August 21, 1878, and subsequently before the Anthropological Institute of London (December 10, 1878).

[EN#86] The following was the announcement offered to the public:--

"La collection minéralogique et archéologique rapportée par le Capitaine Burton, de sa seconde Expédition au pays de Midian, est exposée dans les salles de l'Hippodrome, avant d'être envoyée à l'Exposition Universelle de Paris, sous la direction de M. G. Marie, inge'nieur des mines.

"La salle du sud renferme les croquis et les aquarelles faits par M. E. Lacaze.

"La partie du nord commence avec Akabah, point extrême atteint par l'Expédition; elle contient les résultats du premier voyage de l'Expédition, c'est-à-dire: Shermá, Djebel el-Abiat, Aynouneh, Moghair-Schuaib, Mokna et Akabah.

"Le mur de l'est contient tout ce qui se rapporte à la seconde exploration, c'est-à-dire l'Hismá et le grand massif du Shárr.

"Le mur du sud contient les principaux points de vue pris au sud du pays de Midian: Wedje, la forteresse, la montagne de Omm-el-Karáyát, travaillée par les anciens, la mine de Omm el-Hárab, le temple antique, etc., etc.

"Sur la table sont les médailles et la collection anthropologique fait par le Capitaine Burton.

"La salle du nord contient la collection géologique et minéralogique faite par M. G. Marie; les minéraux sont classés suivant l'ordre des pays parcourus, c'est-à-dire en commencant à Akabah et finissant au Ouadi Hamz, frontière du Hedjaz.

"Tout autour de la salle sont rangées les vingt caisses contenant des échantillons que Son Altesse le Khédive envoie en Angleterre pour y être analysés. Près de la porte de l'est sont placés les restes du temple de l'Ouadi Hamz, les moulins pour écraser le quartz, les briques réfractaires, et enfin les inscriptions Nabathéennes.

"Dans les loges de l'Hippodrome, derrière les deux salles, sont déposés environ quinze tonnes d'échantillons, destinès a être analysés par une Commission locale, nommée par Son Altesse le Khédive."

[EN#87] M. Marie, £35 12s.; Haji Wali, £23; M. Philipin, £12 4s.; M. Lacaze, £3 16s.

[EN#88] Starting with a hundred camels and three Shaykhs.

[EN#89] For all hands.

[EN#90] Includes "bakhshísh."

[EN#91] Sixty-one camels, four Shaykhs.

[EN#92] For all hands.

[EN#93] Fifty camels, three Shaykhs.

[EN#94] For all hands.

[EN#95] Got from Mukhbir.

[EN#96] Fifty-eight camels, three Shaykhs.

[EN#97] For all hands.

[EN#98] Includes "bakhshísh."

[EN#99] Six months' pay.

[EN#100] Four months.

[EN#101] Four months and a half.

[EN#102] Employed on special service.

End of The Land of Midian, (Revisited) By Richard F. Burton,