The Lady S Own Cookery Book And New Dinner Table Directory In W
Chapter 6
There should be always two soups, white and brown, two fish, dressed and undressed; a bouilli and petits-patés; and on the sideboard a plain roast joint, besides many savoury articles, such as hung beef, Bologna sausages, pickles, cold ham, cold pie, &c. some or all of these according to the number of guests, the names of which the head-servant ought to whisper about to the company, occasionally offering them. He should likewise carry about all the side-dishes or _entrées_, after the soups are taken away in rotation. A silver lamp should be kept burning, to put any dish upon that may grow cold.
It is indispensable to have candles, or plateau, or epergne, in the middle of the table.
Beware of letting the table appear loaded; neither should it be too bare. The soups and fish should be dispatched before the rest of the dinner is set on; but, lest any of the guests eat of neither, two small dishes of patés should be on the table. Of course, the meats and vegetables and fruits which compose these dinners must be varied according to the season, the number of guests, and the tastes of the host and hostess. It is also needless to add that without iced champagne and Roman punch a dinner is not called a dinner.
These observations and the following directions for dinners are suitable to persons who chuse to live _fashionably_; but the receipts contained in this book will suit any mode of living, and the persons consulting it will find matter for all tastes and all establishments. There is many an excellent dish not considered adapted to a fashionable table, which, nevertheless, is given in these pages.
A DINNER FOR FOURTEEN OR SIXTEEN PERSONS.
N.B. It is the fashion to lay two table-cloths, and never to leave the table uncovered. Of course, the individual things must be varied according to the season.
FIRST COURSE.
Queen Soup, white, removed by Plain boiled Turbot.
Petits Patés of Oysters.
+----------+ | Plateau, | | or | | Epergne, | | or | | Candles. | +----------+
Petits Patés of Chickens.
Herb Soup, brown, removed by Dressed fish (Salmon.)
Remove the whole and set on as follows:--
Sweetbreads, Stewed Beef, Small larded. with Beef Vegetables. Pies.
Reindeer Tongues, Dressed Peas. Rissoles of highly dressed in Veal and Ham, sauce. served in sauce.
Macaroni, +----------+ Dressed with | | Eggs. Parmesan | Plateau. | cheese. | | +----------+
Mutton Stuffed Cabbage. Supreme of Cutlets Fowls. glazed in onion sauce.
Vol-au-vent. Roasted Turkey, Small breast with truffles, of Veal morels, chesnuts, &c. glazed brown, with Peas under.
On the sideboard, fish sauces, cold pie, hot ham, saddle of mutton roasted; pickles, cucumbers, salad, mashed potatoes, greens, and cauliflowers, crumbs of bread, and grated Parmesan cheese. These should be handed round, to eat with soup, or game, or fowl, if liked.
SECOND COURSE.
Larded Hare, removed by Souffle[16-*]. Cauliflower, Orange with cheese. Jelly. Apples in compote.
+----------+ Puffs and | | Stewed Tartlets. | Plateau. | Partridges. | | +----------+
Dressed Italian Pigeons. Cream. Creams in Glasses.
Small Puddings, Two roasted Pheasants, Jerusalem with sauce. one larded, Artichokes. one plain, removed by Fondu[16-+].
[16-*] Light sweet Pudding.
[16-+] Melted Cheese.
Remove the whole.
THIRD COURSE.
Gruyère[17-*] Pickles. Cheese Pickles. and Schabzieger[17-*].
Savoury Toasts. Bologna Brawn. Sausages. +----------+ | | | Plateau. | | | +----------+ Cold Pie. Cold Pie. Savoury Toasts.
Anchovies. Kipper Salmon. Stilton and Parmesan.
Radishes, cucumbers, salad, butter, &c. to be handed from the side table.
[17-*] Swiss cheeses.
DESSERT.
Cream Ice, Pistachio Nuts and removed by Figs. Orange chips. a Preserved Pineapple.
Dried Cake. Preserved Sweetmeats. Plums.
+----------+ Chantilly | | Pyramid with Basket. | Plateau. | various Sweetmeats. | | +----------+
Almonds Cake. Preserves of and Raisins. Apricots.
Brandy Water Ice Sugared Cherries. à la Macedoine, Walnuts. removed by Grapes.
DINNER FOR TWELVE OR FOURTEEN PERSONS.
FIRST COURSE.
White Soups, Lamb Cutlets and removed by plain Fish: Stewed Chicken. Asparagus sauce. removed by Bouilli, dressed according to any of the various receipts.
Patés.
Dressed Vegetable Fricandeau, or in a mould. Beef Olives. Sorrel sauce. +----------+ | | | Plateau. | | | Small +----------+ Small Ham, savoury Pies. glazed. Macaroni in a mould.
Patés.
Breast of Veal, stewed white, as per receipt. Dressed Eggs. Small Ragout of Any of the Brown Soups, Mutton. removed by any of the dressed Fish.
Sideboard furnished with plain joint and vegetables of all sorts, pickles, &c.
SECOND COURSE.
Charlotte. Plover's Eggs. Grouse.
Tart.
Jelly. Custards. +----------+ | | | Plateau. | | | Partridges. +----------+ Woodcocks.
Trifle.
Fried Artichokes. Dressed Sea Kale.
Leveret.
THIRD COURSE.
Various Cheeses, with Red Herring.
Savoury Toasts.
+----------+ | | Radishes, Cucumbers, | Plateau. | Sausages, &c. &c. | | +----------+
Savoury Toasts.
Potted Game.
DESSERT.
Ice Water, Chesnuts. removed by Walnuts. Pineapple.
Various Cake. Green Figs. Apples. +----------+ | | | Plateau. | | | Filberts. +----------+ Grapes.
Various Cake. Plums. Pears. Ice Cream, removed by Peaches.
DINNER FOR TEN OR TWELVE PERSONS.
FIRST COURSE.
Scotch Collops, Brown Soup, Ragout of brown. removed by Ham. Fish, removed by Boiled Turkey, white sauce.
Vol-au-vent Fricandeau, of Chicken. +----------+ with Spinach. | | | Plateau. | | | Cutlets with +----------+ Rissoles Tomata sauce. of Fowl. White Soup, removed by Dressed Fish, removed by Macaroni Roast Mutton. Patés in paste. of Veal.
Sideboard--salad, brocoli, mashed potatoes, cold pie, potted meats.
SECOND COURSE.
Orange Jelly. Peahen, Plum Puddings. larded.
+----------+ | | Stewed Truffles. | Plateau. | Blancmange. | | +----------+
Tart, Two Eggs, with Sponge Cake, Wild Fowls. white sauce, with Custard. cheesecakes.
Sideboard, Sea Kale, Pickles, Greens, Potatoes.
THIRD COURSE.
Gruyère--Schabzieger. Butter. Celery. Grated Parmesan.
+----------+ | | Radishes. | Plateau. | Cheese in | | square pieces. +----------+
Salad.
DESSERT.
Ice. Biscuits. Currants. Apricots.
Various Cakes. Strawberries. Preserved Orange. +----------+ | | | Plateau. | | | Preserved Pine. +----------+ Cherries.
Cakes.
Peaches. Gooseberries. Wafers. Ice.
DINNER FOR EIGHT PERSONS.
FIRST COURSE.
Dressed Patés of Veal Asparagus. and Ham. Fish, removed by Loin of Mutton, rolled with Tomata sauce.
+----------+ | | Dressed Tongues. | Plateau. | Beef Olives. | | Stewed Spinach. +----------+
Soup, removed by Roast Neck of Veal, with rich white sauce and Mushrooms. Macaroni. Stewed Spinach.
Sideboard, a bouilli, a joint, pickles, plain boiled vegetables, &c.
SECOND COURSE.
Stewed Pigeons, Dressed removed by Dressed Eggs. a Fondu. French beans.
+----------+ | | Apple Tart. | Plateau. | Four small | | Plum Puddings. +----------+
Roast Fowl, Fried with Dressed Ham. Artichokes. Water Cresses, removed by Souffle.
When a plain roast fowl, there should be on the sideboard egg sauce or bread sauce; if a plain duck, wine sauce or onion sauce.
CHEESE COURSE.
Various Cheeses, Bologna Sausages, Pickles. Savoury Toasts, &c. &c.
DESSERT.
Ice Cream, removed by a large Cake stuck with Sweetmeats.
Oranges. Brandy Dry Preserves. Cherries.
+----------+ | | | Plateau. | | | +----------+
Wet Preserves. Apples. Brandy Peaches.
Strawberries.
DINNER FOR SIX PERSONS.
FIRST COURSE.
Asparagus Soup, removed by Small Ham. Fish, Sea Kale, removed by white sauce. Roast Veal bechamelled.
+----------+ | | | Plateau. | | | +----------+
Stewed Turnips, Alamode Mutton Cutlets, browned. Beef. Sauce piquante.
SECOND COURSE.
Turkey Poult stuffed, Blancmange. glazed brown, Croquets fine rich brown sauce of Potatoes. under.
+----------+ | | | Plateau. | | | +----------+
Dressed Peas. Stewed Duck, Tart. with Truffles, Morells, &c.
THIRD COURSE.
Two or three sorts of cheeses (plain), a small fondu, relishes, &c.
DESSERT.
Ice, Brandy Peaches. removed by Apples. Preserved Citron.
+----------+ | | | Plateau. | | | +----------+
Large Cake Oranges. like a hedgehog, Dry Preserves. stuck with Almonds.
DINNER FOR FOUR PERSONS.
FIRST COURSE.
Hare Soup, removed by Fish, removed by Bouilli Beef.
+----------+ | | Tendrons de veau. | Plateau. | Dressed Ham. | | Brocoli. +----------+
Chicken Pie
SECOND COURSE.
Raspberry Widgeon. Stewed Cream. French Beans.
+----------+ | | Croquettes | Plateau. | Tart. of Potatoes. | | +----------+
Partridge.
Cheese as usual.
DESSERT.
Orange Chips. Dry Preserves.
Wet Preserves. Wafers.
SOUPS.
_Almond Soup._
Take lean beef or veal, about eight or nine pounds, and a scrag of mutton; boil them gently in water that will cover them, till the gravy be very strong and the meat very tender; then strain off the gravy and set it on the fire with two ounces of vermicelli, eight blades of mace, twelve cloves, to a gallon. Let it boil till it has the flavour of the spices. Have ready one pound of the best almonds, blanched and pounded very fine; pound them with the yolks of twelve eggs, boiled hard, mixing as you pound them with a little of the soup, lest the almonds should grow oily. Pound them till they are a mere pulp: add a little soup by degrees to the almonds and eggs until mixed together. Let the soup be cool when you mix it, and do it perfectly smooth. Strain it through a sieve; set it on the fire; stir it frequently; and serve it hot. Just before you take it up add a gill of thick cream.
_Asparagus Soup._
Put five or six pounds of lean beef, cut in pieces and rolled in flour, into your stewpan, with two or three slices of bacon at the bottom: set it on a slow fire and cover it close, stirring it now and then, till your gravy is drawn; then put in two quarts of water and half a pint of pale ale; cover it close and let it stew gently for an hour. Put in some whole pepper and salt to your taste. Then strain out the liquor and take off the fat; put in the leaves of white beet, some spinach, some cabbage lettuce, a little mint, sorrel, and sweet marjoram, pounded; let these boil up in your liquor. Then put in your green tops of asparagus, cut small, and let them boil till all is tender. Serve hot, with the crust of a French roll in the dish.
_Another._
Boil three half pints of winter split peas; rub them through a sieve; add a little gravy; then stew by themselves the following herbs:--celery, a few young onions, a lettuce, cut small, and about half a pint of asparagus, cut small, like peas, and stewed with the rest; colour the soup of a pea green with spinach juice; add half a pint of cream or good milk, and serve up.
_Calf's Head Soup._
Take a knuckle of veal, and put as much water to it as will make a good soup; let it boil, skimming it very well. Add two carrots, three anchovies, a little mace, pepper, celery, two onions, and some sweetherbs. Let it boil to a good soup, and strain it off. Put to it a full half pint of Madeira wine; take a good many mushrooms, stew them in their own liquor; add this sauce to your soup. Scald the calf's head as for a hash; cut it in the same manner, but smaller; flour it a little, and fry it of a fine brown. Then put the soup and fried head together into a stewpan, with some oysters and mushrooms, and let them stew gently for an hour.
_Carrot Soup._
Take about two pounds of veal and the same of lean beef; make it into a broth or gravy, and put it by until wanted. Take a quarter of a pound of butter, four large fine carrots, two turnips, two parsnips, two heads of celery, and four onions; stew these together about two hours, and shake it often that they may not burn to the stewpan; then add the broth made as above, boiling hot, in quantity to your own judgment, and as you like it for thickness. It should be of about the consistency of pea-soup. Pass it through a tamis. Season to your taste.
_Another._
Take four pounds of beef, a scrag of mutton, about a dozen large carrots, four onions, some pepper and salt; put them into a gallon of water, and boil very gently for four hours. Strain the meat, and take the carrots and rub them very smooth through a hair sieve, adding the gravy by degrees till about as thick as cream. The gravy must have all the fat taken off before it is added to the carrots. Turnip soup is made in the same way.
_Clear Soup._
Take six pounds of gravy beef; cut it small, put it into a large stewpan, with onions, carrots, turnips, celery, a small bunch of herbs, and one cup of water. Stew these on the fire for an hour, then add nine pints of boiling water; let it boil for six hours, strain it through a fine sieve, and let it stand till next day; take off the fat; put it into a clean stewpan, set it on the fire till it is quite hot; then break three eggs into a basin, leaving the shells with them. Add this to the soup by degrees; cover close till it boils; then strain it into a pan through a fine cloth. When the eggs are well beaten, a little hot soup must be added by degrees, and beaten up before it is put into the stewpan with the whole of the soup.
_Clear Herb Soup._
Put celery, leeks, carrots, turnips, cabbage lettuce, young onions, all cut fine, with a handful of young peas: give them a scald in boiling water; put them on a sieve to drain, and then put them into a clear consommé, and let them boil slowly till the roots are quite tender. Season with a little salt. When going to table put a little crust of French roll in it.
_Cod's Head Soup._
Take six large onions, cut them in slices, and put them in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of the freshest butter. Set it in a stove to simmer for an hour, covered up close; take the head, and with a knife and fork pick all the fins you can get off the fish. Put this in a dish, dredge it well with flour, and let it stand. Take all the bones of the head and the remainder, and boil them on the fire for an hour, with an English pint of water. Strain off the liquor through a sieve, and put it to your onions; take a good large handful of parsley, well washed and picked clean; chop it as fine as possible; put it in the soup; let it just boil, otherwise it will make it yellow. Add a little cayenne pepper, two spoonfuls of anchovy, a little soy, a little of any sort of ketchup, and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Then put the fish that has been set aside on the plate into the stewpan to the soup, and let it simmer for ten minutes. If not thick enough add a small piece of butter rolled in flour.
_Crawfish Soup._
Boil off your crawfish; take the tails out of the shells; roast a couple of lobsters; beat these with your crawfish shells; put this into your fish stock, with some crusts of French rolls. Rub the whole through a tamis, and put your tails into it. You may farce a carp and put in the middle, if you please, or farce some of the shells and stick on a French roll.
_Crawfish, or Lobster Soup._
Take some middling and small fishes, and put them in a gallon of water, with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, sweetherbs, and onions; boil them to pieces, and strain them out of the liquor. Then take a large fish, cut the flesh off one side, make forcemeat of it, and lay it on the fish; dredge grated bread in it, and butter a dish well; put it in the oven and bake it. Then take one hundred crawfish, break the shells of the tails and claws, take out the meat as whole as you can; pound the shells and add the spawn of a lobster pounded; put them into the soup, and, if you like, a little veal gravy; give them a boil or two together. Strain the liquor off into another saucepan, with the tops of French bread, dried, beat fine, and sifted. Give it a boil to thicken; then brown some butter, and put in the tails and claws of the crawfish, and some of the forcemeat made into balls. Lay the baked fish in the middle of the dish, pour the soup boiling hot on it; if you like, add yolks of eggs, boiled hard, pounded, and mixed by degrees with the soup.
_Curry or Mulligatawny Soup._
Boil a large chicken or fowl in a pint of water till half done; add a table-spoonful of curry powder, with the juice of one lemon and a half; boil it again gently till the meat is done.
For a large party you must double the quantity of all the articles, and always proportion the water to the quantity of gravy you think the meat will yield.
_Eel Soup._