Part 27

Take a pint of milk, four eggs well beaten, three ounces of butter, half a pound of sugar, the peel of a lemon grated; put all together into a kettle, and set it over a clear fire; keep stirring it till it begins to boil; then mix one spoonful of flour with as much milk as will just mix it, and put it into the kettle with the rest. When it begins to boil, take it off the fire, and put it into an earthen pan; let it stand till the next morning; then add a quarter of a pound of currants, a little nutmeg, and half a glass of brandy.

_Almond Cheesecake._

Blanch six ounces of sweet and half an ounce of bitter almonds; let them lie half an hour on a stove or before the fire; pound them very fine with two table-spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower water; put in the stewpan half a pound of fresh butter, add to this the almonds, six ounces of sifted loaf-sugar, a little grated lemon-peel, some good cream, and the yolks of four eggs; rub all well together with the pestle; cover the pattypans with puff paste, fill them with the mixture, and bake it half an hour in a brisk oven.

_Cocoa-nut Cheesecakes._

Take a cocoa-nut, which by many is thought far superior to almonds; grate it the long way; put to it some thick syrup, mixing it by degrees. Boil it till it comes to the consistence of cheese; when half cold add to it two eggs; beat it up with rose-water till it is light: if too thick, add a little more rose-water. When beaten up as light as possible, pour it upon a fine crust in cheesecake pans, and, just before they are going into the oven, sift over some fine sugar, which will raise a nice crust and much improve their appearance. The addition of half a pound of butter just melted, and eight more eggs, leaving out half of the whites, makes an excellent pudding.

_Cream Cheesecake._

Two quarts of cream set on a slow fire, put into it twelve eggs very well beat and strained, stir it softly till it boils gently and breaks into whey and a fine soft curd; then take the curd as it rises off the whey, and put it into an earthen pan; then break four eggs more, and put to the whey; set it on the fire, and take off the curd as before, and put it to the rest: then add fourteen ounces of butter, half a pound of light Naples biscuit grated fine, a quarter of a pound of almonds beat fine with rose-water, one pound of currants, well washed and picked, some nutmeg grated, and sugar to your taste: a short crust.

_Curd Cheesecake._

Just warm a quart of new milk; put into it a spoonful of runnet, and set it near the fire till it breaks. Strain it through a sieve; put the curd into a pan, and beat it well with a spoon. Melt a quarter of a pound of butter, put in the same quantity of moist sugar, a little grated nutmeg, two Naples biscuits, grated fine, the yolks of four eggs beat well, and the whites of two, a glass of raisin wine, a few bitter almonds, with lemon or Seville orange-peel cut fine, a quarter of a pound of currants plumped; mix all well together, and put it into the paste and pans for baking.

_Lemon Cheesecake._

Grate the rind of three to the juice of two lemons; mix them with three sponge biscuits, six ounces of fresh butter, four ounces of sifted sugar, half a gill of cream, and three eggs well beaten. Work them well, and fill the pan, which must be lined with puff-paste; lay on the top some candied lemon-peel cut thin.

_Another._

Boil the peel of two lemons till tender; pound it in a mortar very fine; blanch and pound a few almond kernels with the peel. Mix a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, the yolks of six eggs, all together in the mortar, and put it in the puff-paste for baking. This quantity will make twelve or fourteen cakes.

_Orange Cheesecake._

Take the peel of one orange and a half and one lemon grated; squeeze out the juice; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pound of melted butter, four eggs, leaving out the whites, a little Naples biscuit grated, to thicken it, and a little white wine. Put almonds in it if you like.

_Scotch Cheesecake._

Put one ounce of butter into a saucepan to clarify; add one ounce of powder sugar and two eggs; stir it over a slow fire until it almost boils, but not quite. Line your pattypans with paste; bake the cakes of a nice brown, and serve them up between hot and cold.

_Cherries, to preserve._ No. 1.

Take either morella or carnation; stone the fruit; to morella cherries take the jelly of white currants, drawn with a little water, and run through a jelly-bag; to a pint and a half of jelly, add three pounds of fine sugar. Set it on a quick fire; when it boils, skim it, and put in a pound of stoned cherries. Let them not boil too fast at first; take them off at times; but when they are tender boil them very fast till they are very clear and jelly; then put them into pots or glasses. The carnation cherries must have red currant jelly; if you have not white currant jelly for the morella, codling jelly will do.

_Cherries, to preserve._ No. 2.

To three quarters of a pound of cherries stoned take one pound and a quarter of sugar; leave out a quarter of a pound to strew on them as they boil. Put in the preserving-pan a layer of cherries and a layer of sugar, till they are all in; boil them quick, keeping them closely covered with white paper, which take off frequently, and skim them; strew the sugar kept out over them; it will clear them very much. When they look clear they are done enough. Take them out of the syrup quite clear from the skim; strain the syrup through a fine sieve; then put to it a quarter of a pint of the juice of white currants, put them into the pan again, and boil it till it is a hanging jelly. Just before it is quite done put in the cherries; give them a boil, and put them into pots. There must be fourteen spoonfuls of water put in at first with the cherries.

_Cherries, to preserve._ No. 3.

Stone the cherries, and to twelve pounds of fruit put nine pounds of sugar; boil the sugar-candy high; stir it well; throw in the cherries; let them not boil too fast at first, stirring them often in the pan; afterwards boil them fast till they become tender.

_Morella Cherries, to preserve._

When you have stalked and stoned your cherries, put to them an equal weight of sugar: make your syrup, skim it, and take it off the fire. Skim it again well, and put in your cherries, shaking them with care in the pan. Boil them, not on a quick fire, lest the fruit should crack; and take them off the fire several times. Let them boil till done; put your cherries into pots; strain the syrup through muslin, and boil it again till thoroughly done.

_Morella Cherries, to preserve in Brandy._

Take two pounds of morella cherries, when not too ripe, but finely coloured, weighed with their stalks and stones. Put a quart of water and twelve ounces of double-refined sugar into a preserving-pan, and set it over a clear charcoal fire. Let it boil a quarter of an hour; skim it clean, and set it by till cold. Then take away the stalks and stones, and, when the syrup is quite cold, put the stoned cherries into the syrup, set them over a gentle fire, and let them barely simmer till their skins begin to rise. Take them from the fire; pour them into a basin; cut a piece of paper round of the size of the basin; lay it close upon the cherries while hot, and let them stand so till next day. Set a hair sieve in a pan, and pour the cherries into it; let them drain till the syrup is all drained out: boil the syrup till reduced to two-thirds, and set it aside till cold. Put your cherries into a glass jar; put to them a spoonful of their own syrup and one of brandy, and continue to do so till the jar is filled within two inches of the top: then put over it a wet bladder, and a piece of leather over that; tie it down close, and keep it in a warm place.

If you do not mind the stones, merely cut off the stalks of the cherries.

_Brandy Cherries._

To each bottle of brandy add half a pound of white sugar-candy: let this dissolve; cut the large ripe morella cherries from the tree into a glass or earthen jar, leaving the stalks about half the original length. When the jar is full, pour upon the cherries the brandy as above. Let the fruit be completely covered, and fill it up as the liquor settles. Cork the jar, and tie a leather over the top. Apricot kernels blanched and put in are an agreeable addition.

_Cherries, to dry._

Stone the cherries, and to ten pounds when stoned put three pounds of sugar finely beaten. Shake the cherries and sugar well together; when the sugar is quite dissolved, give them a boil or two over a slow fire, and put them in an earthen pot. Next day scald them, lay them on a sieve, and dry them in the sun, or in a oven, not too hot. Turn them till they are dry enough, then put them up; but put no paper.

_Liquor for dried Cherries._

Take some red currants, and boil them in water till it is very red; then put it to your cherries and sugar it; this makes them of a good colour.

_Cherry Jam._

Take twelve pounds of stoned cherries; boil and break them as they boil, and, when you have boiled all the juice away, and can see the bottom of the pan, put in three pounds of sugar finely beaten: stir it well in; give the fruit two or three boils, and put it in pots or glasses, and cover with brandy paper.

_Cocoa._

Take three table-spoonfuls of cocoa and one dessert spoonful of flour; beat them well together, and boil in a pint and a half of spring water, upon a slow fire, for two or three hours, and then strain it for use.

_Cocoa-Nut Candy._

Grate a cocoa-nut on a fine bread grater; weigh it, and add the same quantity of loaf-sugar: melt the sugar with rose-water, of which, for a small cocoa-nut, put six table-spoonfuls. When the syrup is clarified and boiling, throw in the cocoa-nut by degrees; keep stirring it all the time, whilst boiling, with a wooden slice, to prevent it burning to the bottom of the pan, which it is very apt to do, unless great care is taken. When the candy is sufficiently boiled, spread it on a pasteboard previously rubbed with a wet cloth, and cut it in whatever shape you please.

To know when the candy is sufficiently boiled, drop a small quantity on the pasteboard, and if the syrup does not run from the cocoa-nut, it is done enough; when the candy is cold, put it on a dish, and keep it in a dry place.

_Coffee, to roast._

For this purpose you must have a roaster with a spit. Put in no more coffee than will have room enough to work about well. Set it down to a good fire; put in every now and then a little fresh butter, and mix it well with a spoon. It will take five or six hours to roast. When done, turn it out into a large dish or a dripping-pan, till it is quite dry.

_Another way._

Take two pounds of coffee, and put it into a roaster. Roast it one hour before a brisk fire; add two ounces of butter, and let it roast till it becomes of a fine brown. Watch, that it does not burn. Two hours and a half will do it. Take half a pound for eight cups.

_Coffee to make the foreign way._

Take Demarara--Bean Dutch coffee--in preference to Mocha coffee; wash it well. When it is very clean, put it in an earthen vessel, and cover it close, taking great care that no air gets to it; then grind it very thoroughly. Put a good half pint of coffee into a large coffee-pot, that holds three quarts, with a large table-spoonful of mustard; then pour upon it boiling water. It is of great consequence that the water should boil; but do not fill the coffee-pot too full, for fear of its boiling over, and losing the aromatic oil. Then pour the whole contents backwards and forwards several times into a clean cup or basin, wiping the basin or cup each time--this will clear it sufficiently. Let it then stand ten minutes, after which, when cool, pour it clear off the grounds steadily, into clean bottles, and lay them down on their sides, well corked. Do not throw away your coffee grounds, but add another table-spoonful of mustard to them, and fill up the vessel with boiling water, doing as before directed. Be sure to cork the bottles well; lay them down on one side, and before you want to use them set them up for a couple of hours, in case any sediment should remain. Let it come to the boil, always taking care that it is neither smoked nor boils over. All coffee should be kept on a lamp while you are using it.

By following this receipt as much coffee will be obtained for threepence as you would otherwise get for a shilling; and it is the best possible coffee.

_To make Cream rise in cold weather._

Dip each pan or bowl into a pail of boiling water before you strain the milk into it. Put a close cover over each for about ten minutes: the hot steam causes the cream to rise thick and rich.

_Cream, to fry._

Take two spoonfuls of fine flour and the yolks of four eggs; grate in the rind of one lemon; beat them well with the flour, and add a pint of cream. Mix these very well together; sweeten to your taste, and add a bit of cinnamon. Put the whole in a stewpan over a slow fire; continue to stir it until it is quite hot; but it must not boil. Take out the cinnamon; beat two eggs very well, and put them into the cream; butter a pewter dish; pour the cream in it; put it into a warm oven to set, but not to colour it. When cold, cut it into pieces, and have ready a stewpan or frying-pan, with a good deal of lard; dredge the cream with flour; fry the pieces of a light brown, grate sugar over them, glaze with a salamander, and serve them very hot.

_Artificial Cream and Curd._

A pint of good new milk, nine whites of eggs beat up, and well stirred and mixed with the milk; put it on a slow fire to turn; then take it off, and drain it through a fine sieve, and set it into a basin or mould. To make the cream for it, take a pint of milk and the yolks of four eggs well beat, boil it with a bit of cinnamon over a slow fire; keep it constantly stirring; when it is as thick as rich cream, take it off, and stir it a little while afterwards.

_Cream of Rice._

Wash and well clean some very good rice; put it into a stewpan, with water, and boil it gently till quite soft, with a little cinnamon, if agreeable to the taste. When the rice is boiled quite soft, take out the cinnamon. Then take a large dish, and set it on a table: have a clean tamis--a new one would be better--a tamis is only the piece of flannel commonly used in kitchens for passing sauces through--and give one end of the tamis to a person on the opposite side of the table to hold, while you hold the other end with your left hand. Having a large wooden spoon in your right, you put two or three spoonfuls of boiled rice into this tamis, which is held over the large dish, and rub the rice upon it with the spoon till it passes through into the dish. Whatever sticks to the tamis take off with a silver spoon and put into the dish. When you have passed the quantity you want, put it in a basin. It should be made fresh every day. Warm it for use in a small silver or tin saucepan, adding a little sugar and Madeira, according to your taste.

_Almond Cream._

Make this in the manner directed for pistachio cream, adding half a dozen bitter almonds to the sweet.

_Barley Cream._

Take half a pint of pearl barley, and two quarts of water. Boil it half away, and then strain it out. Put in some juice of lemons; sweeten it to your taste. Steep two ounces of sweet almonds in rose-water; and blanch, stamp, and strain them through into the barley, till it is as white as milk.

_French Barley Cream._

Boil your barley in two or three waters, till it looks white and tender; pour the water clean from the barley, and put as much cream as will make it tolerably thick, and a blade or two of mace, and let it boil. To a pint and a half of cream put two ounces of almonds, blanched and ground with rose-water. Strain them with cold cream; put the cream through the almonds two or three times, wringing it hard. Sweeten to your taste; let it boil; and put it in a broad dish.

_Chocolate Cream._

Boil a quart of thick cream, scraping into it one ounce of chocolate. Add about a quarter of a pound of sugar; when it is cold put nine whites of eggs; whisk it, and, as the froth rises, put it into glasses.

_Citron Cream._

To a quarter of a pound of citron pounded put three gills of cream: mill it up with a chocolate-stick till the citron is mixed; put it in sugar if needful.

_Clotted Cream._

Set the milk in the usual way; when it has stood twelve hours, it is, without being skimmed, to be placed in a stove and scalded, of course not suffered to boil, and then left to stand again for twelve hours; then take off the cream which floats at the top in lumps, for which reason it is called clotted cream; it may be churned into butter; the skim milk makes cheese.

_Coffee Cream._

Take two ounces of whole coffee, one quart of cream, about four ounces of fine sugar, a small piece of the yellow rind of a lemon, with rather less than half an ounce of the best picked isinglass. Boil these ingredients, stirring them now and then, till the cream is highly flavoured with the coffee. It might, perhaps, be better to flavour the cream first, and then dissolve the isinglass and put it to it. Take it off the fire; have ready the yolks of six eggs beaten, which add to the cream, and continue to beat it till it is about lukewarm, lest the eggs should turn the cream. Strain the whole through a fine sieve into the dish in which you mean to serve it, which must be first fixed into a stewpan of boiling water, that will hold it so commodiously, that the bottom only will touch the water, and not a drop of the water come to the cream. Cover the cream with the lid of a stewpan, and in that lid put two or three bits of lighted charcoal, moving them from one part to another, that it may all set alike; it should only simmer. When it has done in this manner for a short time, take off the cover of the stewpan; if not done enough, cover it again, and put fresh charcoal; it should be done so as to form a weak jelly. Take it off, and keep it in a cool place till you serve it. If you wish to turn it out in a mould, boil more isinglass in it. Tea cream is made in the same manner.

_Eringo Cream._

Take a quarter of a pound of eringoes, and break them into short pieces; put to them a pint of milk; let it boil till the eringoes are very tender; then pour the milk from them; put in a pint of cream to the eringoes; let them boil; put in an egg, beaten well, to thicken, and dish it up.

_Fruit Cream._

Scald your fruit; when done, pulp it through a sieve; let it stand till almost cold; then sweeten it to your taste; put it into your cream, and make it of whatever thickness you please.

_Preserved Fruit Creams._

Put half a pound of the pulp of any preserved fruit in a large pan: add to it the whites of three eggs, well beaten; beat these well together for an hour. Take it off with a spoon, and lay it up high on the dish or glasses. Raspberries will not do this way.

_Italian Cream._

Boil a pint of cream with half a pint of new milk; when it boils throw in the peel of an orange and a lemon, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a small pinch of salt. When the cream is impregnated with the flavour of the fruit, mix and beat it with the yolks of eight eggs; set it on the fire to be made equally thick; as soon as it is thick enough for the eggs to be done, put into it an ounce of dissolved isinglass; drain it well through a sieve: put some of the cream into a small mould, to see if it is thick enough: if not, add more isinglass. Lay this preparation in a mould in some salt or ice; when it is quite stiff, and you wish to send it up, dip a napkin in hot water, and put it round the mould, which turn upside down in the dish.

_Another._

Put two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, half of a gill of white wine, with a little brandy, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and the rind of a lemon, in a basin, with a pint of cream well whipped together; put thin muslin in the shape or mould, and set it in a cold place, or on ice, till wanted.

_Lemon Cream._ No. 1.

Take five large lemons and rasp off all the outside; then squeeze the lemons, and put what you have rasped off into the juice; let it stand two or three hours, if all night the better. Take eight whites of eggs and one yolk, and beat them well together; put to it a pint of spring water: then mix them all, and sweeten it with double-refined sugar according to your taste. Set it over a chaffing-dish of coals, stirring it till it is of a proper thickness; then dish it out. Be sure not to let it boil.

_Lemon Cream._ No. 2.

Pare three smooth-skinned lemons; squeeze out the juice; cut the peel in small pieces, and put it to the juice. Let it stand two or three hours closely covered, and, when it has acquired the flavour of the peel, add to it the whites of five eggs and the yolks of three. Beat them well with two spoonfuls of orange-flower water; sweeten with double-refined sugar; strain it; set it over a slow fire, and stir it carefully till it is as thick as cream; then pour it into glasses.

_Lemon Cream._ No. 3.

Set on the fire three pints of cream; when it is ready to boil, take it off, and squeeze a lemon into it. Stir it up; hang it up in a cloth, till the whey has run out; sweeten it to your taste, and serve it up.

_Lemon Cream._ No. 4.

Take the sweetest cream, and squeeze in juice of lemon to your taste: put it into a churn, and shake it till it rises or ferments. Sweeten it to your taste, but be sure not to put any sugar before you churn it, for that will hinder the fermentation.

_Lemon Cream._ No. 5.

Pare two lemons, and squeeze to them the juice of one larger or two smaller; let it remain some time, and then strain the juice to a pint of cream, and add the yolks of four eggs beaten and strained; sweeten it, and stir it over the fire till thick. You may add a little brandy, if agreeable.

_Lemon Cream without Cream._

Squeeze three lemons, and put the parings into the juice; cover and let it remain three hours; beat the yolks of two eggs and the whites of four; sweeten this; add a little orange-flower water, and put it to the lemon-juice. Set the whole over a slow fire till it becomes as thick as cream, and take particular care not to let it boil.

_Lemon Cream frothed._

Make a pint of cream very sweet, and add the paring of one lemon; let it just boil; put the juice of one large lemon into a glass or china dish, and, when the cream is nearly cold, pour it out of a tea-pot upon the juice, holding it as high as possible. Serve it up.

_Orange Cream._

Squeeze the juice of four oranges to the rind of one; pat it over the fire with about a pint of cream, and take out the peel before the cream becomes bitter. Boil the cream, and, when cold, put to it the yolks of four eggs and the whites of three, beaten and strained, and sugar to your taste. Scald this, but keep stirring all the time, until of a proper thickness.

_Orange Cream frothed._

Proceed in the same way as with the lemon, but put no peel in the cream; merely steep a bit a short time in the juice.

_Imperial Orange Cream._

Take a pint of thick sweet cream, and boil it with a little orange-peel. When it just boils, take it off the fire, and stir it till it is no hotter than milk from the cow. Have ready the juice of four Seville oranges and four lemons; strain the juice through a jelly-bag, and sweeten it well with fine sugar, and a small spoonful of orange-flower water. Set your dish on the ground, and, your juice being in it, pour the cream from as great a height as you can, that it may bubble up on the top of the cream; then set it by for five or six hours before you use it, if the weather is hot, but in winter it may stand a whole night.

_Pistachio Cream._