Part 2

Eighth row—slip the first stitch, * put the wool over the needle to increase; knit 1; repeat from *. In this way you ought to have 50 stitches on your needles.

Ninth row—knit every stitch.

Tenth row—pearl every stitch.

Eleventh row—slip 1, take 2 together; continue to knit 2 together until you come to the last stitch, which must be knitted.

Twelfth row—the same as eighth.

Thirteenth row—plain knitting.

Fourteenth row—pearl.

Now join the white wool. Do 9 rows of ribbed knitting, but remember to do 3 plain stitches both at the beginning and end of every row.

Tenth row—plain knitting.

Eleventh row—pearl.

Twelfth row—slip the first stitch, * take 2 together. Repeat from *; knit the last stitch.

Thirteenth row—slip the first stitch, * pass the wool over the needle, knit one; repeat from *. You ought now to have 50 stitches.

Fourteenth row—plain knitting.

Fifteenth row—pearl.

Repeat these four rows three times, so as to have four rows of ornamental holes. Join the pink wool.

Sixteenth row—slip 1, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 together; knit 20, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 together.

Second row—knit plain.

Third row—slip one, take 2 together; continue to knit plain until you come to the 3rd and 2nd from the end, which must be knitted together.

Fourth row—plain knitting.

Fifth row—knit 14. Join the white, knit 16; turn round and work on those 16 stitches in white, leaving the pink on the needle without working them. Pearl a row, and knit a row.

Then, slip the 1st stitch,* take 2 together; repeat from *.

The next row slip 1, and increase before every stitch by passing the wool over the needle: you ought now to have 16 stitches.

Knit a row, pearl a row. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times.

You ought now to have 5 rows of ornamental holes. Cast off the white, and go on with the pink on the right-hand side. Pick up 11 stitches from the side of the white flap, make 11 stitches. Knit 14 rows.

Fifteenth row—*, slip the 1st stitch, take 2 together. This ought to be at the toe. The rest plain.

Sixteenth row—plain knitting.

Seventeenth row—slip 1, take 2 together, the rest of the row being plain knitting.

Eighteenth row—plain.

Nineteenth row—slip 1, take 2 together: take 2 together again; the rest plain knitting until you come to within 3 of the end, when you knit 2 together, the last stitch plain.

Twentieth row—knit plain.

Twenty-first row—slip the 1st, knit 2 together; knit 2 together again; continue plain knitting to within 5 of the heel, when you knit the 5th and 4th together; knit the 3rd and 2nd together, and the last stitch plain.

Twenty-second row—knit plain.

Twenty-third row—slip the 1st, knit 2 together; knit 2 together again; plain knitting till the 2nd and 3rd from the end, which you must knit together.

Twenty-fourth row—plain.

Twenty-fifth row—slip 1, take 2 together, the remainder plain.

Twenty-sixth row—plain.

Twenty-seventh row—slip 1, knit 2 together, the rest plain.

Twenty-eighth row—plain, cast off.

Pick up 11 stitches of pink at _c_ to form the toe.

First row—knit plain. Then increase at the toe until you have 18 stitches. Knit 3 rows plain.

Decrease every other time at the toe, until you have only 11 stitches. Pick up 11 white stitches at the side of flap _d_, still knitting with pink wool, and take up the 14 stitches at _e_.

Knit 14 rows in pink. Go back to * at the 15th row, and end at the 28th row.

This is rather a difficult pattern, but when finished quite repays one for the trouble taken.

_Baby’s Boot._

(A VERY EASY PATTERN.)

White Berlin, and pins No. 13.

Cast on 30; and, if speed be a desirability, the entire sock may be done in plain knitting, but the following way is far prettier. Knit the 1st row; then do 24 rows for the leg, in any fancy stitch you like; the last row,* knit 2, wool over the needle, take 2 together. Repeat from *. This forms holes, into which ribbon must afterwards be run.

Twenty-fifth row.—From this time forward you must knit 1, pearl 1; reversed every third row, to make a kind of dice pattern. Cast on 11 extra stitches at the end of each of the next two rows, making 52 in all. Increase at the beginning of every row until there are 62 stitches; do 4 plain rows; then decrease in the same way until you have only 52 again. Cast off and sew up. Crochet a double scallop at the top in blue Andalusian, to give a little finish.

_Double Knitting._

Cast on any number of stitches.

Knit a plain row.

Second row—slip the 1st stitch, knit the 2nd in the usual manner, _but_ put the thread twice round the needle. Then bring the thread forward as if you were going to pearl, only _do not_ pearl, but take the stitch off, and put the wool in front of the stitch back to its place. Then begin again and knit a stitch with wool twice round the needle.

Third row—knit the first stitch. Bring the wool forward, and take off the long stitch, putting the thread down in front. Knit the short stitch, putting the thread twice round the needle.

_Double Knitting with Four Pins._

Cast on twice the number of stitches you wish to have on the right side of the knitting.

* Bring the wool forward, slip 1, put the thread back, knit 1, putting the thread twice round the needle. Repeat from *.

Second round—pearl, putting the thread twice round the needle, put the wool back to the other side, and then slip the long stitch. Repeat these two stitches.

You must be very careful in changing these rows, as otherwise it joins. A good plan is to tie a piece of red wool where the pattern begins. Of course the pattern interlaces at the 1st stitch, but otherwise it ought to be quite separate.

Third round—the same as 1st.

Fourth row—the same as 2nd.

_Comforters, to cost 2s._

Double knitting is most useful for boys’ comforters.

Cast on 60 stitches with pins No. 6, and Berlin fingering or any soft wool, and continue to knit backwards and forwards until the desired length is attained. White or scarlet double Berlin is very warm and soft.

_A Night-Sock or Carriage-Sock, in Double Knitting._

This pattern does for a grown-up person if tolerably large bone needles are used.

The above figure shows the sock completed but not sewn up.

Cast on 80 stitches. Double knitting for 13 rows.

Fourteenth row—double knit 63, plain knit the rest.

Fifteenth row—take off the 17 plain-knitted stitches, double knit 46, plain knit to the end.

Sixteenth row—take off the 17 plain stitches.

Continue double knitting for 13 or 14 rows. Now 1 plain and 1 pearl row.

Knit 1, knit 2 together; knit 6 plain stitches. Repeat to the end of the row.

Pearl 1 row.

Knit 1, knit 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat to the end of the row.

Pearl 1 row.

Knit 1, knit 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat.

Knit 1, knit 2 together, 4 plain; repeat until 12 stitches are left, and cast off, leaving a long thread. Fold the work together and sew it up at the heel; gather it a little in the sewing at the toe. This may seem an odd shape, but it fits very well when on the foot.

_Gentleman’s Waistcoat._

(MEDIUM SIZE. FOR A YOUNG MAN.)

Steel pins, No. 10. ½ lb. dark claret-coloured double Berlin wool, at 6s. 6d.

Cast on 60 stitches.

First row—1 plain, 1 pearl. Repeat.

You must be careful always to pearl where, in the preceding row, you worked a plain stitch. Every row is alike. When you have knitted it long enough, work another side in the same manner, and send it to a tailor to make up. This knitting will not run down when cut.

_Another._

(LARGER OR SMALLER SIZE.)

As sizes vary so much, a good plan to ensure a nice fit is to measure the front of a waistcoat at the broadest part, and then for every inch allow 6 stitches in double Berlin wool, with steel pins No. 10.

Thus: suppose your waistcoat ought to measure 11 inches across, you must cast on 66 stitches; and for the turnings in you had better allow 9 stitches: altogether, 75 stitches.

_Ermine Muffatee._

1 oz. white and 1 oz. scarlet, 1 skein black, 1 skein yellow Berlin wool; 4 pins, No. 17.

Cast on 20 on 2 needles, and 23 on the 3rd. Knit 2 inches in ribs of 3 plain, 3 pearl. Join the scarlet, knit 1 plain inch. Go on with the white and knit 2 inches, ribbed, 3 and 3. Take a wool-needle, and with black wool make 2 little lengthway stitches on the plain stitches of the ribbed part. Then make a yellow stitch between the black, to imitate ermine spots. Now double back the plain knitting and hem it in a neat fold. Any other colour may be substituted for scarlet. A bright blue is pretty.

_Lady’s Muffatee._

(QUICK PATTERN.)

Pins, No. 14. 1 oz. white Berlin, ½ oz. bright blue.

Cast on 20 on two needles, 24 on the 3rd. Plain 3, pearl 3. Knit 3 inches and cast off. With a bone crochet-needle make a very narrow crochet edging lengthways up and down each rib. This has a very pretty and bright effect.

_Gentleman’s Muffatee._

1 oz. brown best Scotch fingering-yarn, price 5½d.

Cast on 70 stitches, 1 row plain; 2nd row, 2 plain, 2 pearl. Repeat for about an inch. Then 4½ inches of plain knitting. Another inch to match the bottom part, of 2 plain and 2 pearl alternately; remembering, of course, to make the plain stitches in one row, the pearled ones in the next. Cast off, and take care not to cast off too tightly, as this part goes over the hand. Sew up, leaving about four inches unsewn for the thumb. Join the wool at the lower part of the thumb, nearest the wrist; pick up 2 stitches; with your second needle turn and pearl off these 2 together. Now you have 1 stitch upon your needle; knit this stitch and pick up 1 from the side; turn and pearl these two; pick up another from the other side. Continue to pick up these side-stitches, but every 3 rows you must knit (or pearl) 2 together until you have decreased 8 stitches. You will now find it more convenient to have the knitting on 2 pins. Continue knitting and pearling until you have picked up nearly all the side-stitches. These few remaining stitches, about 8 (4 on either side), take up on a third needle, and knit 3 plain rounds.

Fourth round—pearl 2, plain 2. Repeat 9 times and cast off.

_Knitted Purse._

One skein blue and one black of purse twist.

These old-fashioned long purses are still occasionally used; the following pattern is rather a small one.

Cast on 72. Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1. Repeat. Second row plain. When broad enough double it and sew up, leaving about 3 inches open for the money to slip in. Finish off with steel rings and tassels.

_Another Purse._

With pins No. 17 or 18, and 1 oz. embroidery silk, price 1s. 6d., from Adams & Co. 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E., cast on 144, and proceed as above; or make 1, knit 3, draw the first of the 3 over the other 2.

Second row—plain. Repeat.

_Lady’s Knitted Woollen Vest, or Jersey._

(BEAUTIFULLY WARM AND COMFORTABLE.)

Needles, No. 9; merino wool, or 2-ply fleecy; the former for summer wear.

These cost about 1s. 1d. each, and are the greatest comfort to those who suffer from the cold.

The 2-ply fleecy is the best wool to use, as it does not wash hard.

For the back—cast on 78 stitches, pearl 3, plain 3, in ribs for 140 rows.

141st row—knit 18 stitches; now turn (these 18 stitches form the shoulder-strap); pearl the 18; knit them; turn, and pearl them. You ought now to be beginning the row again, and this time you pearl; and now pearl the 17th and 18th stitches together; turn and knit back; knit a row, taking the 16th and 17th together; turn and pearl back; knit a row, taking the 15th and 16th together. Turn, and knit the row. Go on in this way, remembering always to decrease at the left side, at the end of every row, until you have done 5 ribs altogether. You ought to have 12 stitches on now. Then cast off. These ribs ought to be crossways instead of lengthways.

Now begin to cast off the remaining stitches, until you come to the last 18. Work this shoulder the same as the last.

The _Fig._ is the right-hand shoulder, the plain and pearl each counting as one rib, making 5 in all.

For the front part of the vest you cast on 78 stitches and knit 125 rows. Begin the right-hand shoulder by pearling, and make ribs as before, only this time you do not begin to decrease at the left until you have done 7 ribs. Reduce to 12 stitches; make 11 ribs and cast off. Cast off the remaining stitches, and proceed as before with the last 18 for the fourth shoulder-piece.

Now sew up these two sides until you get to within 24 rows from the top of the front piece, which is the shortest. You must now join the rest with a gusset, which you form by picking up one stitch, knit it and turn; in every row you must now take up one stitch, and rib them the same as the other part of the vest in 3 and 3. Thus, the first row you have 1 stitch, the next row 2, the next row 3, and so on. When 24 rows are done, cast off. Sew up the shoulders, and crochet a narrow border of small even holes, into which run a piece of crochet wool or white ribbon.

It is a good plan to pick up the stitches all along the shoulder-strap, and knit a few rows, according to the depth of sleeve desired.

_Shetland Shawl._

This takes ¾ lb. of wool, and costs about 9s. A scarlet or violet crocheted border improves it. It can be finished off with a fringe or not, as suits the taste. Bone pins, No. 7.

Cast on 302. Knit a plain row; knit 1 plain stitch at the beginning and end of every row. * Make 1, knit 3, draw the first of the three over the other two. Repeat from *. The next row plain. Repeat these two rows until enough is done, and cast off.

Any fancy stitch will do: it had better be rather a simple one.

_Pence Jug._

½ oz. pink and ½ oz. black Andalusian would do three. They would cost 3½d. each. 5 needles, No. 16.

Cast on 12 stitches on 1 pin for the spout, 10 on each of the three other needles; 4 rounds plain. Now do rounds of 2 plain, 2 pearl, except the spout, which leave plain, decreasing 1 stitch at each side of the twelve in the first 4 rounds, and 1 stitch on every alternate side in the next 8 rounds. The spout is now finished, and you ought to have 31 stitches on the needles.

Knit 12 rounds, 2 pearl, 2 plain, except under the spout, where 1 stitch is to be plain.

With black begin the bowl; increase by knitting 2 in 1; pearl 2 rounds; knit 4 rounds with pink; knit 1 round with black, increasing 12 stitches (one in every six); pearl 2 rounds with black; knit 4 rounds pink; knit 1 round black, increasing 12: there ought to be 86 now. Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 6 rounds pink. Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 4 rounds pink. Knit 1 round black, decreasing 10 stitches at intervals. Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 4 rounds pink, 1 round black, decreasing 6. Pearl 2 black rounds. You ought now to have 72 stitches. Divide these by 6. Knit 11 rounds pink, decreasing 6 stitches in each round by knitting 2 together at the commencement of each division, where a star of 6 points will be found, and 6 stitches will remain on the needles. These are to be drawn up and sewn together. Now cast on 6 stitches in black, and knit and pearl alternately until you have done 3 inches: this is for the handle; attach one end to the bowl and the other to the top of the jug.

_Another._

(LONG SHAPE.)

Andalusian wool as the preceding pattern, and pins No. 15.

Cast on 12 stitches for the spout, and 15 on two other pins. Knit 4 rounds. Now decrease each side of the spout in every round. Do 9 rounds and then 3 pearl rows; then 9 more plain rows. Now for the bowl—increase 1 stitch in every five, and then do three rounds in black; now join the pink and * knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1: repeat from *, the next round plain. Repeat these rows twice more, and with black increase again 1 in every 8. Then with pink repeat the pattern from *, and when the black begins again decrease instead of increasing. Repeat as in preceding pattern and sew up. Take up 6 stitches at the top of the jug opposite the spout, and knit and pearl for three inches; cast off. Leave about a third of an inch hanging, and above that attach it to the bowl.

_Another._

(ON TWO PINS.)

Berlin wool, and pins No. 15.

Cast on 3 stitches in blue or any other bright colour. 1st row, make 1, knit 1, repeat. 2nd row, make 1, pearl 2, repeat. 3rd row, make 1, knit 3, repeat. 4th row, make 1, pearl 4, repeat. Continue in this way until you have 42 stitches. Pearl a row and join the black wool. * Bring the wool forward, knit 2 together; repeat from *. Knit the next row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. Do the same in blue, then the same in black again. Join the blue, * knit 2 together, knit 1; repeat from *. The next row plain. Do this for 4 rows. To form the neck of the jug rib with black for 6 rows. For the spout, knit to the middle; increase, knit 1; increase; the rest plain. Pearl a row, increasing on each side of the 2 centre stitches. Increase in this way until you have 14 for the spout; cast off in blue. Sew up the jug and make the handle in blue, beginning a third of an inch from the top; take up 4 stitches; pearl and knit alternately until long enough, then attach to the bowl of the jug.

This can be knitted in Andalusian and pins No. 17, but in that case you must make the bowl larger—68 stitches is a good size; and the neck or ribbed part must be done for 12 rows instead of 6.

_Easy and Handsome Pattern for an Antimacassar, or Couvrette._

In 6-thread fleecy wool, ¼ lb. for each stripe. Pins, No. 6. This costs 9s. 9d. Scarlet maize, black, green, violet, are pretty contrasts.

Cast on 14 stitches plain knitting until you have attained the required length. The only difficulty is in the casting off. You begin by slipping the first stitch and knitting the second, which must be very loose indeed, almost an inch in length; pass the slipped stitch over. Now drop the 3rd stitch and let it run the whole length of the knitting. Continue thus. The dropped stitches are allowed to run down, and they form a kind of loop-pattern separated by ridges. Add a fringe at top and bottom.

_Another._

4-ply fleecy, and bone pins to match.

Cast on 19 and rib cross-ways in nines. When long enough drop the middle stitch. Cast on 9 in white, rib another stripe in the same way, and drop the middle stitch. Crochet with black along every coloured stripe, and join to the white with maize or orange. Two stripes of green and one of purple look very nice.

_Persian Antimacassar._

This is extremely pretty, and is not difficult. The cost of these couvrettes is generally about the same.

2 or 3 skeins of 4-thread fleecy, of each colour, according to the length required. Pins, No. 10. Scarlet, gold, green, violet, dark crimson, and blue. 6 skeins black, and 6 white filoselle, at 3d. per skein, from Adams and Co., 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E.

Cast on 22. Knit any length you like and cast off. Now select any simple wool-work pattern—a palm is best—or any Moorish pattern, and work it in cross-stitch on the knitting. Do 5 on one strip and 6 on the next, so that they do not come exactly in a line one with another. This has a very handsome effect, indeed. The pattern ought to be worked in black, or black and white filoselle. Join, and add a fringe.

_Raised Plait Knitting for Carriage-rug._

(THIS IS EXTREMELY HANDSOME.)

Pins, No. 5. 3 lbs. and 3 ozs. 12-thread fleecy wool. You must have a third pin pointed at both ends. This costs 25s.

Cast on 20, and knit 6 plain rows.

Seventh row—knit 4, pearl 4, turn round, and knit and pearl these 4 alternately until 11 rows are done. An easy way of counting is to look at the side of the small strip, where there ought to be 7 large chains. When 11 rows are done you slip these 4 stitches on to the third pin, which you must keep on the right-hand side of your knitting.

Pearl 4 stitches on the right-hand pin off the 2nd pin on the left, leaving the 3rd pointed pin hanging down over the right side of the knitting; then pearl the 4 stitches on the above-mentioned 3rd pin; pearl 4, knit 4.

Eighth row—plain knitting.

Ninth row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4.

Tenth row—knit 8, turn round, and pearl and knit these 4 alternately until 11 rows are done. Slip them on to the pointed pin, and let it hang down over the right side of the knitting. Knit 4 stitches on the right-hand pin off the left one; then knit the 4 on the double-pointed pin; knit the remainder.

Eleventh row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4.

Twelfth row—plain knitting.

Repeat from the 7th row until one yard and a half are done; knit 6 plain rows and cast off. You must knit 5 stripes, three scarlet and two white, and join with Berlin or Scotch fingering. Put a fringe, which must be crocheted on. Take about 24 inches of wool, double it, insert the crochet-needle in a stitch of the couvre-pied and pull the ends of the wool through the loop, and tighten gently with the fingers.

_Baby’s Berceaunette Cover._

Long wooden pins, No. 10. 1 lb. pink and 1 lb. white, 4-thread fleecy. Costs 15s. with lining.

Cast on 7 stitches with pink, 7 with white; continue to cast on alternately 7 in each colour until you have 147 altogether. Do * 7 stitches in pink, 7 in white. Repeat 3rd row, 7 pink stitches, and pass the wool in front; then go on with the white. Continue this knitting, and when 7 rows are done do white over the pink squares and pink over the white; you thus make regular rows of squares. You must be careful always to pass the wool after every alternate row to the front of the knitting, so as to have all the long threads on the wrong side: care must be taken not to pull these threads too tightly in passing from one coloured square to another. Make a fringe, and line carefully with pink silk.

Several of the couvrette patterns would make the above, and nearly all the fancy stitches would be pretty done in stripes of pink and white.

_Knitted Quilt._

In stripes with cross-stitch sprigs.

Bone pins No. 6, and 4 lb. 6-thread fleecy, scarlet and white.

Cast on 12 stitches; knit a stripe of plain knitting, 208 rows long. Now work about 17 sprigs or any other pattern on it, in bright filoselle silk (see page 10), leaving 10 rows between each pattern. Now knit a scarlet stripe 108 rows long. This stripe has no sprigs worked on it. Do 10 scarlet and 9 white stripes, and join together.

_Hearth-Rug._

This must be made in squares and then sewn together. Cast on with ordinary twine and steel pins any even number of stitches. Have ready narrow pieces of cloth, about 2¾ inches long and ½ inch broad. Knit one plain row. Second row, slip one; * put a strip of cloth between the two needles and knit a stitch; then turn the end of cloth up again so that both ends may come on the right side. Knit a stitch. Repeat from *. The next row plain. You must pull this knitting rather tight.

The cloth can be bought of almost any tailor by the pound of scraps. It makes a pretty border to put scarlet stripes at regular intervals.

_Loop Knitting._

This knitting leaves loops on one side, and is very pretty and warm for quilts, couvrettes, &c.

Cast on, in 6-thread fleecy and pins No. 7, any number of stitches. Do not slip the first stitch, but always knit it.

First row—plain knitting.

Second row—put the wool round the needle as if you were going to knit a plain stitch, but instead of knitting let the wool hang straight down over the forefinger of the left hand; wind it round and put it for the second time over the right needle. Wind the wool a second time round the finger, and for the third time put it round the needle; and now knit this stitch, which ought to have the appearance of three in one. Repeat. The next row plain. Do about six rows plain and then repeat with the loops; of course you must only make them on one side of the knitting, and they will require a little pulling to keep them in the right place. This is handsome in stripes of shaded red.

_Fringe._

Berlin wool or cotton. Pins, No. 14.

Cast on 14. Knit the desired length, cast off 4 stitches, and then unravel all the rest.

_Woollen Fringe._