Chapter 4

_Flowers for the Border_.--The following is the mode of working this pattern:--Make 28 chain. Turn. Miss 17, 1 plain, 1 chain, 1 long, 2 chain. Continue to work 1 long and 2 chain all round the flower.--

_2d round_. 3 plain under every 2 chain; 4 plain in the stem. Fasten off for the leaf.

12 chain. Turn. Miss 2; 7 long stitches in 7 following chain, 1 plain; 1 chain to cross the stem; 3 long, 1 plain in the same chain as last long; 3 long, 1 plain, 5 long to turn the point; 1 plain, 3 long, 1 plain twice; 7 plain in stem. Fasten off. The second flower, worked as the first, is united to it by working the eighth plain stitch of the last round of the flowers into a stitch the same distance from the stem of the first flower. To turn the corners of the collar, work a flower without a leaf. Continue these flowers the length of the collar.

_Leaves and Flowers for the Centre_:--

_First leaf_. 31 chain. Turn. Insert the needle into the nineteenth chain; 1 plain, 1 chain to cross the stem; 3 long into three following chain; 2 long in 1 chain, 4 long, 2 long in 1 chain; 3 long to turn the points. Then down the other side of the leaf the same. 4 plain in the stem; 1 chain to cross the stem.--

_Second leaf_. 21 chain, and work as first leaf. When finished, work 4 plain down the stem.--

_Third leaf_. 13 chain. Turn. Miss 1, 1 plain, 7 long, 1 plain.--

_The flower_. 17 chain. Turn. Insert the needle in the tenth chain to form a loop; work 15 plain stitches in the loop.--

_1st round_. 6 chain, miss 2, 1 plain five times.--

_2d round_. 7 plain stitches in every 6 chain.--

_3d round_. 3 chain, miss 1, 1 plain; repeat. 17 plain in the stem. Fasten off for the band.

Work a chain the length of the collar.--

_1st row_. Plain.--

_2d row_. 1 plain, 2 long, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 plain; repeat. _Directions for making up the collar_.--After the leaves, flowers, band, and border are worked, cut the shape of the collar in pink or blue paper; gum a piece of holland at the back of the paper, to prevent its tearing; tack the border on the paper pattern, the right side downwards; then sew on the sprigs as in the engraving. Sew the edges of the leaves and flowers nicely, to prevent their turning up; then, with a sewing-needle and fine cotton, unite the flowers, leaves, and borders, by passing the needle from one part of a leaf or flower to another four or five times; then pass the needle under the bars formed six or eight times, according to the length of the bar; pass the needle to another part, and continue to connect the work in this manner throughout the collar.

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EMBROIDERY

52. CENTRE OF A COVER FOR MUSIC-BOOK OR PORTFOLIO.

_Materials--Black satin or velvet; three shades of green, two ditto of crimson, two ditto of blue, and one skein of olive silk; and one piece of silver twist_.

Work, in embroidery-stitch, the leaves with the greens, the flowers with the crimson, the stems with the olive, the harp with blue, the cords of harp with the silver twist, and the shamrocks with green.

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CROCHET.

53. WINTER HEAD-DRESS.

_Materials--Half-an-ounce of shaded scarlet Berlin wool, and six skeins of white wool; Penelope crochet No. 2_.

With white make a chain measuring 18 inches. Work a row in single open crochet. With scarlet work 2 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each row. Work the next row with white, and continue alternately 2 rows scarlet and 1 white, decreasing every row until 9 rows are completed.

_For the Borders_.--With white work in chains of 7, missing every alternate stitch at the back, and taking every stitch at the sides; and for the space of 24 stitches in the centre of the cap miss 2 stitches. Work a second row of chains of 7 at the sides. Work an additional border in the same manner, taking the stitches above the third row of white. Pass casings of scarlet ribbon through each of the rows of white wool, place loops of the same between the borders, join the cap behind, and finish with a rosette of ribbon.

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54. "BABOCHE," OR ORNAMENT FOR CANDLES.

The materials required are, a quarter of a yard of bright rose-coloured glazed muslin, a quarter of a yard of white glazed jaconet muslin, two pieces of card of three inches and a half long and one inch broad; join in, and cut out of rose and white jaconet muslin twenty pieces of each colour; fold them, and sew on the card 5 rose, then 5 white, all round, and your baboche will be completed.--(_See_ drawing.) We assure our fair readers they are exceedingly pretty, and certainly not found _difficult_.

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SCAGLIOLA WORK

55. CHESS-BOARD.

SEE directions in page 22.

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CROCHET.

56. D'OYLEY.

_Materials--Shaded scarlet and green double Berlin wool; Raworth's crochet-thread No_. 16; _Penelope crochet No_. 1.

With green make a chain of 5 stitches, unite the ends; then make 7 chain, 1 single into each loop of the preceding chain.--

_1st round_. 5 chain, 1 single in the centre loop of the 7 chain; repeat four times.--

_2d, 3d, and 4th rounds_. 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat, uniting the ends of each round, and taking the loops at the back of the chain.--

_5th round (crochet-thread_.) 4 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble twice, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat.--

_6th round (green wool)_. 4 treble over the 4 in the last row, 1 double, 5 chain, 1 single through the loop in the last round twice, 5 chain, 1 single; repeat.--

_7th round (crochet-thread)_. 4 treble over the 4 in the last round, 1 double, 5 chain, 1 single over the 1 in the last round.--

_8th round (scarlet)_. 4 treble, 1 double, 3 chain, 1 double through the loop, 5 chain, 1 double twice, 3 chain, 1 double; repeat.

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CROCHET.

57. GAUNTLET CUFF.

_Materials--White and scarlet Berlin wool, three shades, and shaded green wool; Penelope crochet No_. 2.

With white make a chain of 40 loops, and work from the directions given for collar, page 38. Finish, to correspond with, collar, placing a rosette in the centre of the cuff, and fastening with a hook and eye.

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EMBROIDERY

58. LIQUEUR-STAND MAT.

_Materials--White silk or cashmere; three shades of crimson, three ditto of green, two ditto of brown chenille; five shades of scarlet Berlin wool, four skeins of each shade; and four skeins of white Berlin wool_.

Draw the pattern on the material, and work in embroidery-stitch; the roses with the shades of crimson; the leaves with green, shading according to taste; and the stems with brown. In working the designs for the corners, it is an improvement to introduce brown leaves occasionally. Work a shaded fringe round the edge with the wools on a mesh an inch and a half in width. Work the first round with white; the second, the lightest crimson; after which, work one round with each shade to the darkest; cut and comb the fringe, and line the mat with green silk.

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CROCHET APPLIQUE

61. BORDER FOR A LACE SCARF OR VEIL.

_Materials--If for a black veil, fine black crochet-silk; if white, Raworth's crochet-thread No_. 70.

The illustration represents the corner of the border.

_The Rose.--1st row_. 39 c s, 1 l s into eighth stitch, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat from * to end of chain, except the last three stitches, then 6 c s, 1 s c into last stitch.--

_2d row_. 5 c s, 1 l s over 1 s in last row (this row is worked on the other side of chain, where the two stitches were missed), * 2 c s, 1 l s over next 1 s; repeat from * to end of row. Turn. 4 c s, 1 l s round the 2 c s of last row, * 1 c s, 1 l s round the 2 c s of next space; repeat from * to end of row. Turn. 4 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second space, * 1 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second space; repeat from * to end of row. After the last l s one space is left. 1 c s, 1 l s into this. Turn. 4 c s, 1 l s into second space, 1 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second, 1 c s, 1 l s into next, 4 c s, 1 s c into last space. Fasten off. Commence again on last s c stitch of first row. 3 l s, d l s into first space towards the top, 4 d l s into next space, 3 l s, 1 d c into third space, 3 l s, 2 d l s into next space, 3 t l s into top space, 2 d l s, 3 l s into next, 1 d c, 3 l s into next, 4 d l s into next, 4 d l s, 3 l s into next space. Continue all round thus: 6 d l s into next or corner space, 4 d l s into next and every other space except the end, into which 5 d l s, 1 l s. Turn. 4 c s, miss 2, s c into third, 4 c s, miss 2, d c into third, * 4 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third. Continue from * thirteen times, then 4 c s, d c into third stitch, 4 c s, miss 2, s c into third. Turn. 4 d c round every 4 c s all along the last row, 9 c s, s c into middle stitch of the first of three scallops at the top of the rose, 9 c s, s c into second stitch of top scallop, 9 c s, s c into middle of top scallop, 9 c s, s c into last stitch but one of same scallop, 9 c s, s c into middle of next scallop, 9 c s, s c into first of 4 d c stitches round the space of last row * 9 c s, miss 6, s c into seventh; repeat from * until these chains meet where they were begun; then * 1 l c s, s c into s c stitch on the other side of first chain; repeat from * all round.

_Wreath of Leaves and Buds_.--For the wreath under the corner rose: 94 c s, s c down twelve of these, * 7 c s, s c into third s c stitch; repeat from * three times more, which brings it to top stitch; 8 c s, s c into same stitch, * 7 c s, s c into third stitch down the other side; repeat from * three times more; pass the thread under the stalk, 3 d c into first loop of 7 c s, * 7 c, s c round next loop of 7 c s; repeat from * three times, which brings it to top loop; 7 c s, s c into same loop; repeat the 7 c into every loop down the other side; s c, 5 c s for a stalk; 10 c s, 1 d l s into fifth stitch, 5 more d l s into same stitch. Turn. D c along the top of these d l s. Turn. D c along last d c stitches; 9 c s, s c into d c stitch on the other side. Fasten off; this forms the bud. Commence again at the last s c of the stalk of leaf, s c along thirteen stitches; repeat the leaf and bud five times more; s c the remaining c s for a stalk. The wreaths under the roses at the sides are only to have five leaves and five buds on each, and require a chain of eighty-two stalks for the stem. Tack the flowers on paper wrong side up, as seen in the illustration. Tack the buds to the roses, and unite the leaves by a slight band in button-hole stitch. Tack the edges of the roses together, and the ends of the stems to the adjoining wreath; then remove the paper, and lay the bordering upon the edge of the scarf or veil, which should be of Brussels net. Sew the edge of the upper scallops of the rose to the net very firmly, and cut away the superfluous net.

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CROCHET.

62. CARD-PURSE.

_Materials--One skein of cerise, one of blue fine crochet-silk, one skein of gold twist; one hank of gold beads No. 6, one ditto of silver; a gilt top and tassel will also be required_.

Thread the gold beads on the cerise silk, and the silver on the blue, and with the cerise make a chain of 7 stitches, unite; make 2 stitches in each stitch in the 1st round, in every alternate in the 2d, and in every third in the 3d, passing down a bead in every stitch; work thus, increasing in each stitch until there are 42 bead-stitches in the round; now decrease each division of the star, working 6 bead-stitches, 1 plain, increasing in the plain stitch; then decrease 1 bead-stitch in every round till but one remain, increasing always in the same stitch in each round; work 2 plain rounds, still increasing as before; work 1 round with gold twist, without increasing; 1 round with cerise, passing down a bead at every stitch; and 1 round again with twist. Commence with blue, and work 1 plain round. There ought now to be 64 stitches in the round; if a greater number should be found, decrease by missing a stitch as may be found necessary. This must be done in the first round worked with blue.--_2d round (with blue)_. 10 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 2 bead-stitches; repeat all round.--

_2d round_. 8 plain, 8 beads; repeat.--

_3d round_. 12 plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_4th round_. 4 plain, 4 beads, 5 plain, 3 beads; repeat.--

_5th round_. 2 plain, 6 beads, _4_ plain, 2 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead; repeat.--

_6th round_. 1 plain, 4 beads, 2 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 2 beads; repeat.--

_7th round_. 2 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead; repeat.--

_8th round_. 1 plain, 2 beads, 3 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain, 2 beads.--

_9th round_. 2 plain, 2 beads, 3 plain, 5 beads, 2 plain, 2 beads; repeat.--

_10th round_. 1 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_11th round_. 2 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 2 beads, 4 plain, 6 beads; repeat.--

_12th round_. 5 plain, 3 beads, 4 plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_13th round_. 12 plain, 4 beads; repeat,--_14th round_. 8 plain, 8 beads; repeat.--

_15th round_. 10 plain, 2 beads, 1 plain, 3 beads; repeat.--

_17th round_. Plain, decreasing by missing every 16th stitch. Work 1 round with gold, then divide the purse, and work one-half with cerise; work 8 rows, passing down a bead at every stitch, and decreasing a stitch at the beginning and end of each row; work the other half to correspond; sew on to the top, and finish with tassel in the centre of star.

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CROCHET.

63. ROUND COLLAR.

_Materials--White, and three shades of scarlet and shaded green Berlin wool;_ _Penelope crochet No. 2_.

With white make a chain of 84 stitches; work a row of single open crochet.--

_2d row (lightest scarlet)_. 3 chain, 3 long, miss 2; repeat to the end.--

_3d row (second shade of scarlet)_. 1 long worked in the centre long stitch of previous row, 5 chain; repeat.--

_4th row (dark scarlet)_. 3 long worked above the long, and the last and first stitches of the chain, 4 chain; repeat.--

_5th row (green)_. Commence in the edge stitch of third row. 5 chain, miss 3 *, 5 long, 3 chain, miss 1; repeat from *, and work to the end, which must be finished with 5 chain, 1 plain, worked in the third row.--

_6th row (white)_. Commence at the edge-stitch of the third row. 6 chain, * 5 plain worked above the 5 long of previous row, 4 chain: repeat from * to the end, and finish with 6 chain. Fasten the white wool to the second stitch of fourth row, 6 chain, 3 plain worked above the 3 long of fourth row; repeat. Pass through every second stitch of white row, and place a rosette of ribbon at the end.

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EMBROIDERY

64. PRINCE OF WALES'S PLUME.

_Materials--Crimson satin and gold twist_.

Draw the design, and work in embroidery-stitch. This elegant design is suitable for the centre of a book-cover, a watch-pocket, and many other purposes, which the taste of the worker may suggest.

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NETTING

65. PATTERN FOR WINDOW-CURTAINS.

_Materials--Raworths crochet-thread No. 30, or fine knitting-cotton_.

Use cotton No. 10 for embroidering the pattern. Meshes No. 4, No. 6, and a flat mesh three-fourths of an inch in width, will be required for the edge.

Commence with a foundation of 300 loops on mesh No. 4, and net till the length required is worked; then net the following edge at the sides and end; net two loops in every loop on the large mesh, making four loops in the corner loops.--

_2d row_. Take two loops together, netting two in these.--

_3d row_. Take every loop on mesh No. 6.--

_4th row_. Like 3d row.--

_5th row_. Net two loops in every loop on the large mesh.--

_6th and 7th rows_. Like 3d and 4th. Work the pattern in darning-stitch, as in illustration.

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EMBROIDERY

66. GENTLEMAN'S BRACES.

_Materials--Black velvet or white satin ribbon of a very good quality, and five shades of crimson and three of green embroidery silk_.

Line the ribbon with linen; draw the design, and work in embroidery-stitch, shading, as taste may direct,--the leaves with the greens, and the roses with crimson, using three shades for each rose, and working first only with the lightest shades, then with the darkest only.

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EMBROIDERY

67. TOILET-CUSHION.

_Materials--White or black satin; three shades of crimson, three shades of yellow, three shades of green, and two shades of olive green embroidery silk; one yard of crimson and one yard of green chenille will also be required_.

Draw the pattern on the material, and work in embroidery-stitch one rose with the shades of crimson, and the second with the shades of yellow; the leaves with the shades of green, and the stems with olive; work a few stitches with the shades of the roses in the centre of the rose-buds, and work the corner designs with green and olive. In the arrangement of the colours, the taste and judgment of the worker must be exercised, as much depends upon the harmoniously blending of the various shades.

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NETTING

68. THE HELEN CAP.

_Materials--Scarlet floss silk, or five shades of scarlet Berlin wool; meshes Nos. 3 and 6; cornucopia gauge, and a flat mesh, an inch in width_.

The cap is worked in honeycomb netting, and the borders and rosette in plain netting. With the darkest shade make a foundation of 56 stitches on mesh No. 3, net 2 rows with each shade, increasing a stitch at the end of each row; leave one-half of the cap plain, and net a border in the following manner on the remaining loops and at the ends:--With the darkest shade net 4 loops in every loop on the flat mesh, increasing by making 6 loops in each of the three corner stitches; then on mesh No. 3, net 1 loop in each, and finish by netting a row with the next shade on the smallest mesh: this must be repeated at each side of the cap. For the second border, net 100 loops on the flat mesh on a foundation of wool, and finish to correspond with the first border. Two pieces netted in this manner are required, and they are arranged in festoons at the sides of the cap. Pass a cord the size required through the foundation-stitches, join it, and sew on a rosette made in the following manner:--With the darkest shade net 100 loops on mesh No. 3; then with the next shade net 2 rows at each side and at the ends; make this into a rosette with long ends, as in illustration.

This elegant and becoming head-dress derives its name from the beautiful sister-in-law of the Emperor of Russia, the Grand Duchess Helen, who introduced this style of coiffure at St. Petersburg.

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INDIAN ORNAMENTAL WORK

69. SCREEN.

Beautiful cabinets, work-boxes, work-tables, fire-screens, &c., may be painted in imitation of ebony inlaid with ivory by the following means:--Let your screen be made of an elegant form, but merely of common white wood or deal, prepared as below.

_Composition for the Surface of Wood_.--Steep one ounce of glue in a pint of cold water all night; throw off the water in the morning. Take six ounces of finest white lead in powder, mix it by degrees in a mortar, with about half a pint of cold water, till it is perfectly smooth, then place it, along with the glue, in a clean pan. Add half a pint more water; set it on the fire, stirring constantly till it boils. Let it boil three minutes; take it off, and pour it into a stone jar, and continue to stir it occasionally till cold. When cold, but before it congeals, take a clean paint-brush, and paint your screen with the composition. When it is quite dry, rub it over with sand-paper, to make it quite smooth; then give it another coat of the white composition, repeating the rubbing with sand-paper as before. Repeat this same process five or six times, until you obtain a smooth, equal, white surface. When that is accomplished, dissolve the fourth of an ounce of isinglass in a quarter of a pint of water; when cold, but liquid, give the screen a coat of it with a clean brush, and do not use the sand-paper after it.

_To Ornament the Screen_.--Lay a sheet of black tracing-paper on the screen, with the black side downwards; then place a pattern above it, with the right side uppermost; place a weight here and there, to prevent it slipping; then trace over the outline with a rather blunt stiletto. On removing the paper, you will find the outline of the pattern transferred to the surface of the screen. Trace over the outline, and shade, in lines, with a fine camel's-hair pencil dipped in Newman's lamp-black; fill in with the same.

_Varnish_.--Place four ounces of rectified spirit of wine in a wide-mouthed bottle; add one ounce of gum sandarac, a quarter of an ounce of gum mastic, and a drachm of camphor, all in powder. Put a stopper in the bottle, set it near a fire, and shake it occasionally. When all the gums are quite dissolved, add one ounce of oil of turpentine; then strain through muslin into another clean, dry wide-mouthed bottle. Let it stand a day or two before using.

_Mode of Varnishing_.--Take a large clean new varnish-brush, dip it into the bottle, and then cover over all your screen with it. When perfectly dry, give it another coat, and so on till it has had six coats; let it remain untouched for two days; rub it smooth with sand-paper; then give it two more coats of varnish, and repeat the rubbing, being careful to wait between each coat till the last is dry, and not to rub with sand-paper sooner than two days after varnishing, and never give more than two coats of varnish in a day--one in the morning, another at night. When you think it looks clear and sufficiently thick, give it another coat without using the sand-paper after it; let it stand four days; then rub it all over with pounded rottenstone, and wipe it off with a wet cloth; after which take a little Florence oil and hair-powder, and polish with your hand.

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KNITTING

70. HEARTSEASE.

_Materials--Split Berlin wool, and knitting-needles No. 20; cornucopia gauge_.

_Violet Petals_.--Cast on three stitches with a bright shade of violet; knit and pearl in alternate rows, making a stitch at the beginning of every row, until you have fourteen or sixteen stitches; then knit and pearl six rows alternately, without increase, and continue in knitted and pearled rows, decreasing one stitch at the beginning of each row, till six or eight stitches alone remain; these cast off in the plain row, taking the two last as one before you turn the last stitch over. Two petals like these are required.