Part 1
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THE LADY'S ALBUM OF FANCY WORK FOR 1850
Consisting of Novel, Elegant, and Useful Designs in Knitting, Netting, Crochet, Braiding, and Embroidery with Clear and Explicit Directions for Working the Patterns
ADDRESS
Encouraged by the kind welcome which greeted their former efforts to provide a volume worthy the attention of the ladies of the United Kingdom, the Publishers of the _Lady's Album of Fancy-Work_ have issued a similar production for 1850. Solicitous to preserve the favourable consideration so flatteringly accorded, every care has been taken to render the _Lady's Album of fancy-Work_ for 1850 as attractive and useful as possible; no expense has been spared in its artistic illustration, letterpress, and embellishment; and it will be found an elegant ornament in the drawing-room as well as a useful ally at the work-table. The patterns and designs are of the most useful and varied character: specimens are given of each style of work recently invented; and no article either of ornament or use at present in fashion is omitted.
The exercise of the needle has been from time immemorial a favourite occupation with the females of every country; and the allusions to the subject from cotemporary historians and poets evince that this feminine pursuit was regarded with approval and respect. The invention of embroidery is ascribed to the Phrygians; and we also learn from ancient authors, that the Sidonians particularly excelled in this beautiful art of decorative needlework; it must have also made considerable progress in the country soon after the Norman Conquest, from the accounts that are recorded of the robes embroidered in gold and silver, generally worn by persons of rank at that period. The Bayeux Tapestry also remains to us as a lasting trophy of the skill and industry of Queen Matilda and the ladies of her court, and is not more interesting as a historical record than as a specimen of the needlework of the mediæval age. The introduction of knitting into this country is comparatively of modern date; so late as the middle of the sixteenth century. The invention of the art is usually ascribed to the Spaniards; though the Scotch, with some appearance of justice, assert their claims as its originators. Like all inventions, knitting has undergone wonderful improvements since it was first simply used for stocking-making: and the value attached to stockings so made may be judged from the fact, that a pair were deemed a fitting present from one sovereign to another. A pair of knitted hose was amongst the gifts received by that lover of finery, Queen Elizabeth; but no record remains to shew if these were preserved with the three thousand robes which were found after her death in the wardrobe of England's Maiden Queen.
The love for domestic occupations, which is so admirable a trait in the character of our countrywomen, has often been a subject of gratulation; and that female ingenuity and skill may continue to be employed in embellishing the drawing-room, rather than in directing the political intrigues of the _salon_, must be desired by all interested in the preservation of those domestic attributes which give so pleasing a charm to home, and secure the comfort of all around.
The taste which her Majesty Queen Victoria evinces for feminine pursuits and occupations has naturally exercised considerable influence in preserving habits of industry amongst her female subjects; and to her Majesty's example, and that of the amiable Queen Dowager, may be ascribed that the labours of the English embroideress are now justly appreciated, and her work esteemed as in no respects inferior to the produce of foreign ingenuity.
In expressing their thanks for the patronage extended to the _Lady's Album of Fancy-Work_ for 1849, the Publishers take leave to state that the present Volume contains designs and patterns for various articles in Embroidery, Braid-Work, Crochet, Knitting, Netting, Ribbon-Work, Scagliola, and Indian Ornamental Work; all of which are executed and engraved in a style of unusual superiority. Each pattern is accompanied with plain and explicit directions; and it is hoped that their execution will afford many hours of pleasurable employment to the fair and industrious votaress of the needle.
CONTENTS.
Explanation of the various Terms used in Crochet General Instructions for Embroidery
1. Front for Lady's Cabinet (Embroidery)
2. Cover for Cake-basket (Netting)
3. Infant's Bonnet (Crochet)
4. Lace for Pocket-handkerchief (Crochet)
5. Elizabethan Watch-hook (Crochet)
8. Music-stool Cover (Crochet)
9. Cover for Album (Embroidery)
10. Serviette for Cruet-stand (Crochet)
11. Screen (Embroidery)
12. A Long Purse in Honeycomb Pattern (Netting)
13. German Knitting-bag (Crochet)
14. Cigar-case (Embroidery)
15. Collar au Feston (Embroidery)
16. Card-case (Scagliola Work)
19. Claret-jug Mat (Embroidery)
20, 21. Corner for Handkerchief (Embroidery)
22. Cover for Easy-chair (Crochet)
23. Lady's Reticule (Crochet)
24. Spectacle-case (Scagliola Work)
25. Toilet-cushion (Crochet)
26. Bonnet-preserver (Knitting)
27. Small Ottoman (Embroidery)
28. Card-basket (Crochet)
29. Raised Crochet Collar (Crochet)
30. A Chess-board (Scagliola Work)
31. Garniture for Toilet-basket (Crochet)
32. Greek Cap (Embroidery)
33. Flower-stand (Crochet)
34. Cover for Tassel of Window-blind (Crochet)
35. Under-sleeve (Crochet)
36. Smoking Cap (Embroidery in Braid)
37. Baby's Cap (Crochet)
38. Lace for Cap (Crochet)
39. Apron (Embroidery)
42. Limerick Lace Scarf (Tambour)
45. A Knitting-bag (Netting)
48. Vase-stand (Netting)
49. Watch-pocket (Braid)
50. Mitten (Crochet)
51. Collar (Crochet)
52. Centre of a Cover for Music-book or Portfolio (Embroidery)
53. Winter Head-dress (Crochet)
54. "Baboche," or Ornament for Candles
55. Chess-board (Scagliola Work)
56. D'oyley (Crochet)
57. Gauntlet Cuff (Crochet)
58. Liqueur-stand Mat (Embroidery)
61. Border for a Lace Scarf or Veil (Crochet Appliqué)
62. Card-case (Crochet)
63. Round Collar (Crochet)
64. Prince of Wales's Plume (Embroidery)
65. Pattern for Window-curtains (Netting)
66. Gentleman's Braces (Embroidery)
67. Toilet-cushion (Embroidery)
68. The Helen Cap (Netting)
69. Screen (Indian Ornamental Work)
70. Heartsease (Knitting)
71. Serviette for Liqueur-stand (Crochet)
72. A New and Elegant Work for Sofa-pillows, Card-baskets, &c. (Ribbon Work)
73. Lady's Silk Mitten (Crochet)
74. Couvrette for Devotional Chair (Netting)
75. Sachet (Embroidery)
76. Pen-wiper (Embroidery in Braid)
77. Pattern for Footstool or Cushion (Berlin Work)
78. A Mat for a Flower-vase (Crochet)
79, 80. Lady's Slipper (Embroidery in Braid)
EXPLANATION OF THE VARIOUS TERMS USED IN CROCHET.
CHAIN-STITCH OPEN CROCHET.--This consists of five or any uneven number of loops attached by a plain stitch to every third stitch of the foundation, and in the succeeding rows to the centre loop of the chain of previous row.
THREE CHAIN CROCHET.--Work a chain of three loops as in chain-stitch open crochet.
DOUBLE CROCHET.--Work as follows: having made a chain, pass the needle through the first loop on the chain, draw the cotton through the loop, there will now be two loops on the needle, through these draw the cotton.
SINGLE CROCHET.--Insert the needle in the loops, and draw the cotton through this loop and that on the needle.
RIBBED CROCHET.--This is worked in a similar manner to double crochet, only that the under loop of the previous row is taken, and it is done in rows to and fro.
LONG STITCH.--Twist the cotton round the needle, pass it through the loop, draw the cotton through the first two loops on the needle, then catch the cotton again and draw it through the next two loops; there will be one loop left on the needle.
DOUBLE LONG STITCH.--This resembles long stitch, excepting that the cotton is twisted twice round the needle.
TREBLE LONG STITCH.--Twist the cotton three times round the needle.
SINGLE OPEN CROCHET.--This is a succession of long stitches, with a chain-stitch between each, missing one stitch of the foundation; in the succeeding rows the long stitch is worked between the two long stitches of the preceding rows.
DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET.--This consists of two long stitches, then two chain-stitches; or it may be varied by making one long stitch, two chain-stitches, missing the same number of stitches in foundation as there are chain-stitches.
TREBLE OPEN CROCHET.--Work three long stitches, then three chain, missing three of the foundation.
VANDYKE OPEN CROCHET.--Work three long stitches into one of the foundation, make one chain-stitch, miss three of the foundation; repeat. In the next and following rows the long stitches are worked in the chain-stitch.
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GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR EMBROIDERY.
The various elegant designs for handkerchiefs, jupons, shirts, &c. are worked in raised satin stitch. The material used is French working-cotton; numbers 100 or 120 will be found suitable for most purposes, but this must be regulated by the quality of the cambric. Handkerchiefs embroidered in colours continue to be extremely fashionable; the patterns in the _Lady's Album_ are of the most novel description, and quite suitable for this style of work. The names and initial letters are worked in satin-stitch, sewing over the lines.
THE
LADY'S ALBUM
OF
FANCY NEEDLEWORK.
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EMBROIDERY.
1. FRONT FOR LADY'S CABINET.
_Materials--Black satin; six shades of crimson, five shades of yellow, three shades of puce, two shades of scarlet, three shades of yellow-greens, three shades of blue-greens, and two shades of brown embroidery silk, or of chenille_.
Draw the design upon the satin, frame the work, and work in embroidery-stitch. The rose-leaves with the yellow-greens, the leaves of thistles with the blue-greens, the stems with brown, the thistle and bud of thistle with the shades of puce, working the centre of the former with the shades of scarlet.
Work the rose on the right hand of thistle with the four darkest shades of crimson, and that on the left and the buds with the four lightest shades. Work the remaining rose with the yellow shades. Work the designs for corners in a similar manner, shading according to the taste of the worker.
The above design is adapted for the front or door of a small rosewood or an inlaid ebony cabinet, suitable for a lady's boudoir or dressing-room. It looks well if worked upon white instead of black satin; and if the former is used, it is advisable to have plate-glass as a protection to the needlework.
* * * * *
* * * * *
NETTING.
2. COVER FOR CAKE-BASKET.
_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 40, darning-cotton No. 12, meshes Nos. 4 and 9, cornucopia gauge_.
With the crochet-thread make a foundation by netting 33 loops on the large mesh, join and net 6 rounds on mesh No. 9, then on mesh No. 4 net 4 loops in one, missing every alternate loop; net 7 rounds on mesh No. 9, then on the large mesh net 4 loops in one, missing, as before, every alternate loop; net 15 rounds on the small mesh, net 4 loops in every alternate loop on the large mesh, then net 24 rounds on mesh No. 9; (a) net 24 loops, then net back, leaving the last of the 24 loops: continue netting these loops to and fro, decreasing one loop at the end of each row by leaving the last loop, and net until but one loop remains; repeat from (a) all round. This forms the scalloped edge.
With the cotton embroider the pattern in darning-stitch, as given in illustration.
* * * * *
CROCHET.
3. INFANT'S BONNET.
_Materials--Drab crochet-thread and a middle-sized hook_.
Make a chain of 9 stitches; unite and work three rounds in double crochet, increasing in every loop in the first round, in every alternate in the second, and in every third in the third round.
_4th round_. 1 l, 1 ch worked in every loop of previous round.--
_5th round_. 1 l worked in 1 l of last round, 2 ch; repeat.--
_6th round_. 1 l in the 1 l, 3 ch; repeat.--
_7th round_. Double crochet.--
_8th round_. Double crochet, increasing in every eighth stitch.--
_9th round_. Double crochet, increasing as before; repeat from fourth round four times, then work 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2 three times, then three rounds of double crochet without increasing; work these last six rounds three more times. This completes the bonnet.
_For the Roll_.--Make a chain the width required; work three rows in double crochet; three rows 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2; after which work alternately three rows of double crochet; three rows 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2, increasing a stitch at the beginning and end of each row; these six rows may be repeated five more times, or till the size wished for is worked. Make up the bonnet on a foundation covered with blue silk, form the roll for the edge with wadding, trim with a small plume of blue feathers, or a rosette of blue ribbon.
The above directions are for a bonnet for an infant of five or six months old, but by increasing the number of rounds and rows for the roll a larger size may be worked.
* * * * *
CROCHET.
4. LACE FOR POCKET-HANDKERCHIEF.
_Material--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 70_.
Work a chain the required length; d c. into every stitch of this chain.--
_2d row_. 1 d l s, * 3 c s, miss 3; 1 d l s into fourth; repeat from *.--
_3d row_. 12 c s, s c into d l s; * 12 c s, miss 1 d l s, s c into second d l s; repeat from *.--
_4th row_. Begin on centre of loop of 12; * 16 c s, s c round the same loop, close to first stitch; 12 c s, s c round centre of next loop; repeat from *.
_5th row_. Commence on centre of 12 c s in last row; * 9 c s, s c into top of 16 c s; 9 c s, s c into centre of 12 c s; repeat from *.--_6th row_. 1 d c, 3 l s, 1 d c round every 9 c s in last row.--
_7th row_. Commence on centre of 3 l s; * 13 c s, s c into same stitch to form a ring; d c round this seventeen times; 12 c s, miss 1, scallop, s c into second scallop; repeat from *.--
_8th row_. Commence on top stitch of 17 d c, round the ring in last row; * 8 c s, s c into same stitch; 8 c s, d c round centre of next loop of 12 c s; 8 c s, s c into centre stitch of ring; repeat from *.--
_9th row_. Begin in small loop at top of ring; 8 c s, 1 l s into same small loop; * 5 c s, s c into fifth of 8 c s in last row; 5 c s, s c into fourth of next loop of 8 c s; 5 c s, 1 l s into top loop; 5 c s, 1 l s into same loop; repeat from *.--
_10th row_. Begin in small loop at top of former small loop; * 11 c s, s c into next small loop; repeat from *.--
_11th row_. Begin on centre of 11 c s; * 7 c s, 1 t l s into same stitch; 6 c s, 1 s c into last part of t l s; 7 c s, s c into first stitch of the row; 12 c s, s c into centre of next 11 c s *; repeat from * to *.--
_12th row_. 9 c s, d into small loop of 6 c s; repeat.--
_13th row_. 7 c s, s c into centre of 9 c s; repeat.--
_14th row_. 7 c s, s c into centre of 7 c s; repeat.--
_15th row_. * 9 c s, 1 l s round 7 c s; 9 c s, 1 l s round same loop of 7; 9 c s, 1 s c into same loop; 10 c s, miss 1 loop of 7 c s, s c round next loop; repeat from *.
* * * * *
CROCHET.
5. ELIZABETHAN WATCH-HOOK.
_Materials--Half-an-ounce of pink four-thread Berlin wool, half-an-ounce of white ditto, four yards of cord, and a pair of pearl watch-hooks_.
With pink work in double crochet over the cord a circle of three inches and a half diameter; there should be 140 stitches round the edge, on which work the border, thus:--
_1st row white_. Work 1 stitch in open crochet, 1 chain, miss 1 of the foundation; repeat.--
_2d row white_. Work two treble long stitches into every space, 1 chain stitch between each.--
_3d row pink_. Work 1 open crochet into every space, 1 chain; repeat.--
_4th row pink_. 1 plain crochet, 2 chain, miss 20, 1 plain; repeat. Tack the loops in the centre, and sew on a pearl watch-hook.
* * * * *
* * * * *
CROCHET
8. MUSIC-STOOL COVER.
_Materials--Shaded green Berlin wool, four threads; ivory crochet-hook_.
Make a round the size of a shilling, and work thirty-two treble-stitches round it.--
_2d round_. 3 treble, 3 chain; repeat.--
_3d round_. 1 single into the middle treble-stitch of the 3 in last round, 9 treble in the loop of 3 chain; repeat.--
_4th round_. 1 single into the third of the 9 treble, 5 chain, 1 single into the seventh of the 9 treble; repeat.--
_5th round_. 2 treble, 5 chain, 2 treble in the chain of five in the last round, 5 chain; repeat.--
_6th round_. 2 treble over the 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble in the loop of 5 chain, 2 chain, 2 treble over the second, 2 treble, 3 chain; repeat.--
_7th round_. 2 treble over the first 2 treble-stitches, 3 chain, 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble, 1 chain; repeat.--
_8th round_. 4 treble, commencing on the last 2 treble-stitches in the last round, 5 chain, 2 treble, 5 chain; repeat.--
_9th round_. 2 treble over the 2 middle of the 4 treble, 7 chain, 2 treble, 7 chain; repeat.--
_10th round_. 1 single into the last chain-stitch in the last round, _(a)_ 5 chain, 1 single into the second of the chain of seven, 7 chain, 1 single into the last but one of the 7 chain; repeat from _(a)_.--
_11th round_. 1 single into the centre stitch of the 7 chain, 9 chain; repeat.
_12th round_. Treble.--
_13th, 14th, and 15th rounds_. Single open.--
_16th, 17th, and 18th rounds_. The same, only making 2 treble-stitches together, with 1 chain.--
_19th round_. Plain treble.--
_20th round_. 1 single, 7 chain into every 3 stitch in the last round.--
_21st round_. 1 treble into the centre of the 1 loop of 7 chain, 6 chain, 1 single into second loop of 7 chain, 6 chain; repeat.--
_22d round_. 3 treble, commencing on the chain-stitch before the treble in last round, 6 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 6 chain; repeat.--
_23d round_. 5 treble, commencing on the chain-stitch before the 3 treble in last round, 6 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 6 chain; repeat.--
_24th round_. 7 treble, commencing as before, and making a chain-stitch between each treble, 5 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 5 chain; repeat.
* * * * *
EMBROIDERY
9. COVER FOR ALBUM.
_Materials--Black or crimson satin or velvet, gold thread, and gold-coloured silk braid_.
Draw the pattern with a white crayon, and work the leaves and the name with the gold thread in embroidery-stitch; sew on the braid on the scroll which encircles the cover.
* * * * *
CROCHET.
10. SERVIETTE FOR CRUET-STAND.
_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 30, or three shades of rose and one of drab crochet-thread_.
If the coloured threads are used, commence with the lightest pink, and make a chain of 30 stitches; work on each side and in the end of this in close double crochet, increasing by making three stitches in the end-stitches.--
_2d round_. 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2, except at the three end-stitches, when none must be missed.--
_3d round_. 1 long in the 1 long of last round, 2 chain; increase at the ends by working 1 long in the alternate chain-stitches.--
_4th round (with the second shade)_. 5 single, 11 chain, miss 7; repeat all round.--
_5th round_. Work a stitch of double crochet in each of the chain-stitches, and in the first two of the single of last round, 5 chain, unite to the single in the ring which this forms; work 1 single, 3 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 1 single, work 2 double in the 2 single; repeat all round.--
_6th round (with the darkest shade)_. 1 single in the centre of the 11 chain-stitches, 9 chain, 1 single in double long, 9 chain; repeat.--
_7th round_. Double crochet in every stitch of last round.
_For the Forget-me-nots_.--With drab make a chain of 6 stitches, unite, and into this ring work 3 long stitches, 3 chain-stitches; repeat four times more. Make a chain of 5 stitches for the stem, and fasten off.
_For the Leaves_.--Make a chain of 15 stitches, work 11 double crochet down this chain, pass the thread under the stalk, and draw it through the 12 stitch on the opposite side. Work 1 long stitch into each of the next 3 loops; 4 chain-stitches, (_a_) 1 single crochet into the next loop; 1 long stitch into the following loop; 2 double long into the next; 1 treble long into the next; 2 double long, 1 single long, 4 chain; repeat from (_a_) to the 1 treble long, which brings you to the point of leaf. Work on the reverse side 2 double long, 1 long, 1 single, (_a_) 4 chain, 1 single, 2 double long, 1 long, 1 single; repeat from (_a_), and finish by working down the stem. 27 forget-me-nots and 12 leaves will be required. Cut a paper pattern the size and shape required; tack the centre of serviette to this, the right side to the paper, arrange the leaves and flowers as indicated in illustration; work stems for the flowers in chain-stitch, and to this attach each flower; work between the flowers and the leaves in button-hole stitch, and sew the leaves and flowers to the centre.
* * * * *
* * * * *
EMBROIDERY
11. SCREEN.
_Materials--Black satin, three shades of green chenille, three shades of brown chenille gold twist, and gold beads_.
Work the shamrocks with the green chenille, veining the leaves with gold twist; the foliage in the background is also worked with green chenille. The framework of the harp is executed with beads, and the strings with twist. The wolf-hound is worked with brown chenille in embroidery-stitch, as also are the stems of the shamrocks and foliage.
* * * * *
NETTING
12. A LONG PURSE IN HONEYCOMB PATTERN.
_Materials--Three skeins of coarse purse silk, either a rich green, dark blue, or cerise, according to fancy; mesh No. 12_.
For the length, you will require a foundation of 72 stitches.
_1st row_. Net plain.--
_2d row_. Net the 2d stitch, then the 1st, now net the 4th, and afterwards the 3d; continue in this way to the end of the row.--
_3d row_. The first and every alternate stitch of last row will appear to be twisted, into which net 1 stitch; but into 2d and every other net 2; repeat to the end of the row.--
_4th row_. Net plain, leaving the extra stitches of last row unnetted; these 4 rows form the pattern, which must be repeated fourteen times more; join one-third of the rows together at each side, net 2 rows round the opening with a No. 21 mesh, draw up the ends, and finish with steel tassels and slides.
* * * * *
CROCHET.
13. GERMAN KNITTING-BAG.
_Materials--Green and puce Berlin wool (four shades of green and three of puce), three skeins of each shade, and four skeins of black wool. One pair of tassels of corresponding colours, and a quarter of a yard of morocco leather for lining, will also be required_.