Part 5

MATERIALS.--Half-a-dozen skeins of each of seven shades of green wool, and four of scarlet ditto. A fine netting-needle, four knitting-needles, No. 14, and the same of No. 16.

With the darkest green wool cast on 96 stitches on each of three of the coarsest knitting-needles (that is, 288 altogether), and close into a round.

1st round: Plain knitting.

2nd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 6, knit 3 together, knit 6, make 1, * 18 times.

3rd: Plain knitting.

4th: Change to the darkest scarlet, and repeat the second round.

5th: Knit 7, * knit 3 together, knit 13, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 6.

6th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 5, knit 3 together, knit 5, make 1, * 18 times.

7th: Plain knitting.

8th: Change to the next shade of green, and repeat the 6th round.

9th: Knit 6, * knit 3 together, knit 11, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 5.

10th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 4, knit 3 together, knit 4, make 1, * 18 times.

11th: Plain knitting.

12th: Change to the next shade of scarlet, and repeat the 10th round.

13th: Knit 5, * knit 3 together, knit 9, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 4.

14th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 3, knit 3 together, knit 3, make 1, * 18 times.

15th: Plain knitting.

16th: Change to the next shade of green, and repeat the 14th round.

17th: Knit 4, * knit 3 together, knit 7, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 3.

18th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1, * 18 times.

19th: Knit 3, * knit 3 together, knit 5, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 2.

20th and 21st: Plain knitting, using the finer needles, and decreasing until there are only 96 stitches in the round.

22nd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, * times.

23rd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, twice, knit 7, * 8 times.

24th: Like 22nd.

25th: * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 8, * 8 times.

26th: * slip 1, knit 4, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 3, make 1, slip two together, knit 1, pass the 2 slip over, make 1, knit 2, * 8 times.

27th: Like the 25th.

28th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, * 8 times.

29th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 7, * 8 times.

30th: Like 28th.

31st: * ** slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** twice, knit 8, * 8 times.

32nd: * ** slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** twice, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, * 8 times.

33rd: Like 31st.

Repeat these 12 rows (that is, from the 22nd to the 33rd, inclusive of both), six times more, doing two patterns (that is, 24 rounds) of one shade, and then changing to the next lightest. After the 7th pattern, continue as follows, in order to decrease and form the neck for the lamp.

1st decreasing round: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, * 8 times.

2nd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, * 8 times.

3rd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, * 8 times.

4th: * ** slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** twice, knit 7, * 8 times.

5th: * * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 2, * 8 times.

6th: * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 4, knit 2 together, * 8 times. After this, do two inches of ribbed knitting in the same shade. It is done by alternately knitting and purling two stitches. Cast off.

The edges of the Vandykes are trimmed with tatting, of which five graduated ones surround each. Fill the netting-needle with the darkest shade of wool, and make for every point at the base of the corner the following seven loops:--

1st: 9 double stitches; draw it up to a half-circle.

2nd: 11 double; the same.

3rd: 13 double; the same.

4th: 15 double; draw it up tightly.

5th: Like 3rd.

6th: Like 2nd.

7th: Like 1st.

This cover is intended to protect the lamp from the dust, which greatly injures the bronzing of the Hadrot lamp.

* * * * *

LAMP MAT, IN CROCHET.

MATERIALS.--6 skeins of white netting silk, and 3 skeins each of four shades of cerise ditto, the darkest being almost brown, and the lightest a rich and brilliant cerise. A hank of rather large steel beads, a string of short square steel bugles, and 1 oz. of fluted ditto, 1/2 inch long. A skein of rather fine white cotton cord, and 54 rings. Tapered, indented crochet-hook, No. 22. Begin with the darkest cerise, and do not change until the directions require it.

1st round: With this silk work 8 s.c. on the end of the cord, and form into a round, after which 6 s.c. to secure it.

2nd (Cerise and white): X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last, 1 white, 2 cerise in 1, x 6 times.

3rd: X 1 cerise worked in the same stitch as the last two, 3 white, 2 cerise in one, X 6 times.

4th: Like 3rd, with 5 white instead of 3.

5th: X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last two, 7 white, 4 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

6th: X 1 cerise in the same as the last four, 11 white (the last 2 being over 2 cerise), 4 cerise in one, X 6 times.

7th: X 1 cerise on the next stitch, 13 white, 1 cerise on 1, 3 on the centre one of 5, X 6 times.

8th: Like 7th, with 15 white. Change to the next shade of cerise.

9th: X 1 cerise on next, 8 white, 1 cerise, 8 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise on centre of 5, X 6 times.

10th: X 1 cerise on next, 8 white, 3 cerise (the second over 1 cerise), 8 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

11th: X 1 cerise on next, 6 white, 3 cerise, 1 white, 1 cerise, 1 white, 3 cerise, 6 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

12th: X 1 cerise in next, 6 white, 11 cerise, 6 white, 1 cerise. 3 in 1, X 6 times.

Next shade of cerise.

13th: X 1 cerise in next, 5 white, 5 cerise, 2 white, 1 cerise, 2 white, 5 cerise, 5 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

14th: X 1 cerise in next, 7 white, 3 cerise, * 1 white, 2 cerise, * twice, 1 white, 3 cerise, 7 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, x 6 times. 15th: X 1 cerise in next, 11 white, 3 cerise, 1 white, 3 cerise, 11 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

16th (Lightest cerise): X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last 3, 13 white, 2 cerise, 1 white, 1 cerise, 1 white, 2 cerise, 13 white, 4 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

17th: X 1 cerise in the next, 16 white, 3 cerise (over 1 w., 1 c., 1 w.), 16 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

18th: X 1 cerise on next, 18 white, 1 cerise, 18 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

19th: X 1 cerise in next, 39 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

20th: X 1 cerise in 1, 2 white, * 2 cerise, 3 white, * 7 times, 2 cerise, 2 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

21st: X 1 cerise in next, * 3 white, 2 cerise, * 8 times (the white over white, the cerise over cerise), 3 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

22nd: X 1 cerise in next, 3 white, * 1 cerise, 2 white over 2 cerise, 1 cerise, 1 white, * 8 times, 2 more white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

23rd: X 1 cerise in next, 3 white, * 1 cerise, 4 white, * 8 times, 1 cerise, 3 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

24th: Entirely cerise, working 3 in 1 at all the 6 points.

25th: White and cerise alternately, a single stitch of each, with 3 in 1 at the points.

26th: All cerise, increasing, as before, at the corners.

This completes the centre of the mat. Now cover six of the rings with the darkest cerise, 12 with the lightest, 12 with the second lightest, and 24 with white. They are to be done in s.c. The darkest are sewed in the centre of each side of hexagon, with a white at each side, and two more (joined together) above it. The lightest cerise are placed at the points the two being joined together, and one to the mat. These form the extreme points, and the other twelve are placed to connect the lightest rings with the white. The short square bugles are threaded, with some of the beads, to form a cross in the centre of each of the white rings; the other rings have a cross of beads only. All the rings are sewed together, and to the mat.

The elegant fringe round the edge is formed of the long steel bugles, connected with each other at the outer edge by a chain of 4 steel beads. The needle is slipped down them to connect them with the rings, and a single bead is threaded at the base of each. The side rings have 6 bugles each, placed at equal distances; the corners have 8; and 1 is placed where every two rings are joined.

This mat would be very beautiful if worked in white and shades of green, with gold beads and bugles.

* * * * *

CANDLE LAMP MAT.

MATERIALS.--Half-ounce each of stone-colour and shaded violet, 8-thread; half-ounce of shaded amber, 4-thread Berlin Wool; 4 yards of ordinary sized Blind or Skirt Cord; 77 small Curtain Rings, the size measuring across five-eighths of an inch; Nos. 1 and 2 Penelope Hook: 2 bunches No. 6 Steel Beads.

With No. 1 Hook, and drab Wool, work 11 stitches d.c., over the end of the cord; double in as small a circle as possible, unite, and work 2 stitches into every loop for three more rounds.

5th: 1 stitch into every loop.

6th: Increase 1 stitch in every 2nd loop. There must be 72 stitches in this round.

7th: Place a pin in every 9th loop, and in this same 9th loop work with 8-thread violet, 1 stitch; then 9 stitches drab in the next 8 loops, that is, increasing 1 stitch in about the 4th loop; repeat this all round.

8th: Work 3 stitches violet into the 1 violet stitch; then 9 stitches drab, working only 8 stitches in the last compartment, to commence next row.

9th: In the last drab stitch that was not worked into, work 1 violet stitch; then 4 more violet; then 7 drab, increasing 1 in 4th stitch; in the last compartment make only 2 drab after the increased stitch, in order to make 8 violet in next round.

10th: 8 violet, the 1st to come before the 5th violet of last row, and the last to come after the 5th violet, but increasing 1 violet on the 5th stitch; then 7 drab, increasing 1 in the 4th drab stitch.

11th: All violet, increasing 1 in every 5th stitch.

12th. All violet, but without increasing, unless required.

The diameter of the mat should now measure 6 inches across, but should it be required larger, another row of cord, or even two, will give the increased size.

Now d.c. under all the rings, about 30 to 32 stitches for each ring is necessary; unite and tie the knot very neatly, and sew six of these rings round a 7th, sewing them with cotton the colour, and sewing them at the parts where each ring is joined, about 6 stitches in length; be careful that no stitches are seen on the right side; then sew steel beads round the centre ring, taking up 5 to 6 beads at a time on the needle; then place the needle between the joinings of the rings, take upon it about 35 beads, and draw the cotton across to the opposite point; repeat this twice more, the beads will then form as given in engraving; sew the circles of rings on to the mat by two of the rings, and sew the circles together by one ring. Any other colour beside amber will do for the rings. If the table cover is scarlet, green wool should be used; if blue, amber; or if green, scarlet or pink.

* * * * *

HAND SCREEN, IN CROCHET.

MATERIALS.--5 skeins of rich dark blue purse silk, 6 skeins of fine and pure gold thread; Penelope hook, No. 18; 2 yards of dark blue silk fringe, 2 inches deep; 2 yards of fine wire, and 3/4 yard of white gros-de-Naples. A pair of screen handles.

Of course silk of any other colour may be used, if blue will not correspond with the furniture. Green looks very handsome with gold, and scarlet with silver. The metal thread used must be of the very best description only.

Begin by making six gold flowers, thus:--26 ch., close in 19th for a round, X 7 ch., s.c. under loop, X twice, 7 ch., slip on the closing of the round--thus there are three loops in the centre one; work under the chain of the first, 1 s.c., 1 d.c., 6 t.c., 1 d.c., 1 s.c. Under the centre one 1 s.c., 1 d.c., 9 t.c., 1 d.c., 1 s.c.; and the third loop like the first. Slip on the base of the flower, and work down the 19 ch. in s.c.

Six of these flowers are to be made, and afterwards sewed on the silk, radiating from the centre, and each occupying the middle of one side of the hexagon.

FOR THE SCREEN (beginning in the centre).--With the blue silk, make a chain of six, and close into a round.

1st: X 1 d.c., 5 ch., miss none, X 6 times.

2nd: X 5 t.c. on 5 ch., 5 ch., miss 1 d.c., X 6 times.

3rd: X 7 t.c. (beginning on the last of 5 ch.), 5 ch., X 6 times.

Continue in this manner, increasing the t.c. stitches by 2 at each section of the hexagon, in every round, until there are 33 t.c. in each division, always making 5 chain between. Then s.c. all round, adding the silk flowers where they occur--that is, over the 8th, 17th, and 26th of the 33 t.c. in each section. The flowers are made in the following mariner:--12 ch., close into a loop at the 7th, 6 ch., s.c. under loop. 8 ch., s.c. under loop, 6 ch., slip at the stem, X 5 ch., s.c. under first loop of 6, X 5 times, * 5 ch., s.c. under the loop of 8, * 7 times, ** 5 ch., s.c. under loop of 6, ** 5 times; s.c. down the chain, and continue the round.

The gold flowers are to be worked in the same way, and attached over the centre of each 5 chain which form the corners of the hexagon. Work a chain all round, catching up the points of the flowers at regular intervals, and then work two rounds of s.c., with three stitches in one at the points.

Do all the crochet work of these screens rather tightly. Sew on the large gold flowers, passing the ends through the centre loop of the screens, and form a little rosette of X 6 chains, s.c. in the round, X repeated to close the middle.

TO MAKE UP THE SCREENS.--Cut out a hexagon, the exact size of the crochet, in paper, and bend the wire into the same form. Be very particular that the wire frame shall be true and even. Cover it on both sides with white silk, over one side of which sew the crochet. It will only require to be fastened round the edges. The fringe must then be laid on, the handles attached, and the screen is completed.

If preferred, the back of the screen may be covered with silk of the colour of the crochet, as more durable than white.

* * * * *

CROCHET COUNTERPANE FOR A BASSINET.

MATERIALS.--Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Knitting Cords, Nos. 12 and 16; 8 oz. of blue beads, large enough to thread on the finest cotton, they should be turquoise blue; crochet hooks, Nos. 19 and 20.

The centre of the counterpane is made in diamonds, with small pieces at the edges, merely to fill in the parts where the diamonds leave spaces, and form the whole into a solid square. It is done in ribbed crochet. Ribbed crochet is so called from the work having the appearance of ridges. It is worked backwards and forwards thus: the top of a row of crochet, whether s.c., d.c., or t.c., presents an appearance of chain stitch; in working ribbed crochet, take up always that side of the chain which is furthest from you. The middle of the counterpane is done in knitting cord, No. 12; crochet hook, No 19.

FOR THE DIAMONDS.--(a) Make 2 ch., miss 1, 3 s.c. in the next ch.

2nd: Turn the work; 1 ch., 1 s.c. in one, 3 s.c. in next, 1 s.c. in third.

3rd: Turn, 1 ch., 2 s.c. in second, 3 s.c. in next, 2 s.c. in two last.

Thus you proceed, turning the work at the end of every row, working 1 s.c. in every one but the middle stitch, in which you work 3, until you have made 15 ribs, and the row has 61 stitches, a chain stitch being made at the beginning of every row.

Now make 3 ch., on turning, and work 3 d.c. in the first stitch, X miss 2, 3 d.c. in third, X 9 times, miss 1, 3 d.c. in second, 1 ch., miss 1 (which should be at the point), 3 d.c. in second, miss 1, 3 d.c. in second, * miss 2, 3 d.c. in third, * 9 times. This completes the row, the last 3 d.c. coming on the last stitch.

Turn, X 5 ch., d.c. between the sets of 3 d.c. of the last row, X to the end; s.c. only at the last.

Turn, X 3 ch, s.c. under loop, X to the end but with 5 ch. at the point; another s.c. in the last loop.

Turn, 2 ch., d.c. in every stitch of last row. Turn, 1 ch., s.c. in every stitch of last row; fasten off.

This completes one diamond, which for a bassinet quilt will be large enough. For a large counterpane they may be considerably increased. A glance at the engraving will show how they are joined together.

For the half diamonds at the side _(b)_ make 2 ch.; work 2 s.c. in the first of these, turn, 1 ch., 1 s.c. in the first of the two of last row, 2 s.c. in the second; turn, 1 ch., 2 s.c. in the first, and 1 in each of the other 2 s.c. of last row. Continue working thus, making two in one at the end of one row and the beginning of the next, until there are 31 stitches and 15 ribs. Then, for the open part, 2 ch., turn, work 3 d.c. in the first stitch, X miss 2, 3 d.c. in next, X 10 times.

2nd row of open work: Turn, X 5 ch., d.c. under the chain between the first and second set of 3 d.c. X repeat to the end of the row; 5 ch., s.c. at the end.

3rd: Turn, X 3 ch., s.c. under loop, X repeat to the end.

4th: 2 ch., turn d.c. in every stitch to the end.

5th: 1 ch., turn, s.c. to the end.

For the side pieces _(c)_ work in exactly the same manner, only beginning by working thus: 2 ch., turn, 2 s.c. in the first of these, 1 ch., turn, _2 s.c. in the first of the two and 1 in the second_. This is just the reverse of the other, the increase continuing to be made at that edge where the first increases. Of course the last row will end at the point of one piece, and the short side of the other.

_(d)_ 2 ch., work 3 s.c. in the first of these, 1 ch., turn, 2 s.c. in the first, 3 in the next, 2 in the last. Turn, 1 ch.; work this and all the following rows until you have 61 stitches in this manner. 2 s.c. in the first and last stitches, 3 in one in the centre, and 1 in one in every other (increasing 4 stitches in every row). The five open work rows to be done as in _a_.

_(e)_ Work these pieces like _a_, until 10 ribs are done; then turn and s.c. up to the three centre stitches, _slip_ on the first of the three, X turn, miss the slip stitch, slip on the next, and s.c. to the end; turn, 1 ch., s.c. on all the s.c. but the last, which slip; X repeat between the marks until one stitch only remains, through which the thread is drawn. The other side of the point must then be worked to correspond with the first, the centre stitch not being worked at all.

_(f)_ These two morsels are begun like _b_ and _c_, and finished in the same way that _e_ is. They will then exactly fit those corners. The other corners _(g)_ are worked by beginning, as usual, with 2 ch., in the first of which work 3 s.c. X ch., turn, 2 s c. in first and last stitches, and one in each intermediate; X repeating backwards and forwards until 3 stitches are in the row, when complete by open work as in _b_ and _c_.

The numbers required of each piece are--_a_, 28; _b_ and _c_, five of each; _d, e, f_, and _g_, two each. (A glance at the engraving will show the manner in which these are joined into an oblong square.)

EYELET-HOLE BORDER.--When all are sewed together, a line of d.c. must be worked all round, with 3 stitches in one at the corners, and two in one on each side of the three. This will make the corners perfectly square.

2nd round: X 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1 X; repeat all round, but not missing any at the corners.

3rd: (Eyelet-holes). These are to be worked quite separately from the last, at first. X 9 ch., close for a round in the second, and work 8 s.c. under the half, X repeat until a length is done sufficient to surround the square, every little round being half-covered by the s.c. In covering the other half of each circle, you will attach it to the work thus:--4 more s.c. make a ch., slip the needle off the loop, insert it at the corner of second round, and draw the loop through, then 4 s.c. under the remainder of the circle, 1 s.c. on ch. between; X 4 s.c. under next eyelet-hole, miss 2 on the second round, insert the hook in the third, draw the loop through, and work 4 more under the ch.; X repeat, allowing 3 between, except at the corners.

4th: S.c. (putting the hook under both sides of the chain) at the top of an eyelet-hole, X 5 ch., s.c. in the same way under the centre of the next, X all round, with 6 ch. at the corners.

5th: X 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, X all round, not missing any at the corners.

6th: S.c. all round, with two stitches in one at the corners.

MOTTO BORDERS.--For these use Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Cotton, No. 12, on which the beads must be strung before beginning to work. The borders are done entirely in s.c., the beads being dropped on, according to the pattern, _on the wrong side_, this _wrong_ side being the _right_ when beads are used in crochet. The ends have 241 chain each: the sides, 397. The pattern occupies 55 rows, and the squares at the corners have 55 chain, and the same number of rows.

The motto borders and corners are all worked separately, and afterwards sewed together. When completed, the eyelet-hole border is again added all round, and the counterpane then only requires a deep open border.

This quilt would be very handsome, if worked in coarser cotton, for a full-sized bed. The small diamonds in the centre would thus be increased in size, and a sufficient number should be done to form a middle just three times the dimensions of that now given. The borders should be worked in open square crochet instead of s.c.; the pattern and letters in close squares on an open ground. It would for this purpose, be requisite to make the chains of three times the number of stitches, and one over: 724 for the ends, 1,192 for the sides, and 166 for the corners. In other respects the counterpane might be worked exactly from the instructions.

The family coat-of-arms and crest, correctly drawn, would make a very handsome centre for a counterpane in crochet. Where a quilt is done in square crochet, it should be laid over one of the new patent wadded counterpanes of a colour appropriate to the furniture of the room, as this displays the work to great advantage.

* * * * *

DEEP BORDER FOR BASSINET QUILT.

MATERIALS.--Brooks' Knitting Cord, Nos. 4 and 6; Crochet-hook, No. 18.

This lace is to be worked round the last eyelet-hole border with No. 6 Brooks' Cotton.

1st round: S.c. round the edge of the last border, with two stitches in every one for two inches on each side of the corners.

2nd: X 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, X all round, but not missing any at the corners.

3rd: Like first, but with 2 in 1 for 3 inches round the corners, at the extreme points of which there will be 3 in 1 three times.

4th: Begin at a corner. X 2 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 2 d.c., 9 ch., miss 2, X 4 times. Then continue along the side, missing 6 instead of 2, until you come to within 41 stitches of the next corner, when you will miss 2 only again, and at the point of the corner miss none. All the sides are to be worked alike.