Part 3

This draft has three sidebodies, as it is desirable that the width between the seams should be narrow in order to better define the form. These sidebodies should each have about the same width at the waist line.

For a single-breasted front, add for lap on the button-hole side no more than ¾ inch, and about as much more for the button stand. If 3 or more hooks and eyes are sewn to the center line inside it will relieve the strain on the buttons.

It can be made to button up with a standing collar, or with a short roll and turnover collar.

THE SKIRT.

DIAGRAM 35.—Draw a straight line as O B.

From O down to A is ¼ of the waist, which for a 24 waist is 6 inches.

From O as pivot, sweep a circle from A toward H.

Take the sidebody and lay it with its lower point at A, and so that the waist line will rest on the line at 4.

In this position the lower edge will not rest on the sweep, but rise above it at 1.

Now draw along it from A to 1.

Take the next sidebody, close it to 1, and let the forward point rest on the sweep point 2.

Draw a line at a right angle from O to E, and from D the point on the circle to E will be 1 inch.

Now from 2 through E draw the curve to F.

From 2 to 3 lay the third sidebody to obtain the width, and then place the part of the front from K to S from 3, reaching to F.

F to the outside edge, Z, is 1½ inch.

From 2 to Y is the same.

The bottom, B to C, is 2½ inches, and is shaped past X to C like the diagram.

A side plait is added to A and B of the same width as that on the back.

After all is drawn out, the upper seam of the skirt is the line from A to 1, 2, 3 and F.

DIAGRAM 36.—The back is regular down to the waist, where it is usually made very narrow—about 1 inch on line A. The skirt, which is then added to C, is never more than 8 nor less than 6 inches long from B to C.

NOTE.—The sleeve head for these garments is never so large as for other jackets, but is held small or with only a small rise to cause a puff, and the wrist is made small to close with buttons. When a sleeve is made to close at the wrist, it necessitates buttons, and for the prevailing style it is necessary to make the upper sleeve narrower at wrist, so that the buttons shall be on top of the wrist, as shown on Diagram 44.

SHIRT WAISTS.

THE FOREPART.

DIAGRAM 37.—First use a waist pattern either to measure or proportions.

Draw a straight line from O to R, and lay the pattern down against it at breast and waist, as represented by the broken lines.

Mark along the armhole and lay the first sidebody in a closing position to the front at armhole and overlapping just 1 inch below the waist.

Draw a line along its side to W.

Now place in front of O and R 6 to 10 inches, according to the amount of fullness desired to be gathered in, as to P and S.

Curve the line on top of shoulder ½ inch above it, and draw the line P S.

The distance P V must be gathered in to that of O V, and when finished the pattern is laid against the armhole and the neck cut by it.

A yoke of lining can also be cut of the shape at the shoulder and neck, and the material gathered on to it.

THE BACK.

DIAGRAM 38.—On a straight line like O E lay the back center-seam.

Then place the sidebody close to the back at the top and 1½ inch from it at the waist, as shown.

Now mark along the armhole from K to G, and along the side from G to L and N.

Even with the top of back draw a line to C.

From O to C place the same amount added to the front from O to P, and draw a straight line to F.

Apply the length, which is generally 21 inches, from O to E and shape the bottom.

Raise above shoulder at B ½ inch.

When the length has been fixed at N, apply the length from G to N to the front, to finish the bottom.

SHIRT WAIST WITH YOKE.

THE BACK.

DIAGRAM 39.—Take the waist and mark along the armhole from T, along the shoulder top of the back, and down the back to B more or less low, as may be desired.

This will be the yoke pattern, and must be cut out of another sheet of paper.

Then draw a line along the back-seam from O to E and D.

Lay the sidebody close to the back at T and within 1½ inch of it at K.

Mark around it from T to J, J to H and G, and apply the length from O to D for the bottom.

Square lines from B to C and from D to F.

Place 6 to 8 inches from B to C and D to F, and draw the line C F.

From C curve above B 2 inches to T.

THE FOREPART.

DIAGRAM 40.—Lay the forepart against a straight line, as R N.

Point S is opposite point T on the back, when J is laid close to the top of the sidebody.

From S to P curve the line for the yoke, which will be the shape of the shoulder and this line.

The sidebody is laid close against the front at the armhole and overlaps 1 inch below the waist line. Mark along the side-seam to L and M.

Apply the length of the back to the front, and curve from M forward.

From P to Q place the same amount as on the back, and the same from N to O; now draw the straight line O Q.

From S to Q curve the upper part 2 inches above P to R.

The material between S and Q is gathered into the distance P S, and that of the back into T B.

A band is usually sewn inside the waist, to which the waist amount is gathered, but sometimes the waist is left loose and worn inside of a skirt, the back of which holds it close.

THE PLAIN SLEEVE.

When the waist, basque or jacket is drafted, measure the armhole all around, being careful to obtain the actual circumference.

By the size obtained we draft the sleeve head.

We then require the length to the wrist, the elbow and wrist size.

As an example, we shall use the following measures:

Armhole, 16. Length of sleeve under arm, 16½. Width at elbow, 12. Width at wrist, 10.

DIAGRAM 41.—Commence by drawing lines O C and O J at right angles.

O to A is ⅓ armhole, 5⅜ inches.

O to J is ½ armhole, 8 inches.

Draw a line down from J to F, and across from A to G.

From A to C is the length, 16½ inches.

B is in the middle between A and C.

C over to D is ½ wrist size and ½ inch.

From D to E is 1¾ inch.

Connect E with F by a straight line.

Point H is in the middle between O and J.

Point I is in the middle between J and H.

DIAGRAM 42.—G up to K is ¼ armhole, 4 inches.

Now, with a pair of compasses, sweep from K by H toward P, and from H by K. This gives point P, where both sweeps cross.

Now use P as pivot and sweep from K to S. This curve will touch the upper line at H and give a suitable round for the sleeve head.

Raise above A to R ½ inch, and with a slight curve connect with the sweep as shown.

Draw a short line from K to line I, which gives N, and make L 2 inches from A.

Shape the under-arm scye from R to the line at L and up to N, curving above and below a straight line from N to L, as represented.

From F forward to M is ½ of elbow width.

Draw straight lines M to A and C, and curve inside of these as shown.

DIAGRAM 43.—Work out the outlines as follows:

Shape from K to G, past F, clearing it by ½ inch, and thence with an easy curve to E at bottom. Curve the edge of cuff from C to E.

Point 9 is ½ inch back from E, and should be straight across from E. Curve from C to 9.

Draw the elbow-seam of the under part from N to 1 straight down, and thence to Q and 9, making Q ½ inch inside of the straight line at F.

The inside-seam of the under side follows that of the upper sleeve from A through T to C.

This finishes the plain sleeve.

CHANGES FROM THE PLAIN SLEEVE.

DIAGRAM 44.—When the shoulders are drafted narrower than given by the system proper, it is necessary to add to the sleeve top the amount the width of the shoulder has been reduced; this amount, which may be ½ to 1 inch, must be added above 2 to 3, and the curve drawn as shown from 1 through 3 to 4.

The under sleeve requires no change.

It is sometimes desirable, when a vent with buttons is required, as on close wrists for riding jackets or dresses, to reduce the width of top at wrist 1 inch, with the intention of having the button show more forward on the hand.

With the view of effecting this, go in from P on the upper sleeve 1 inch to S, and draw the elbow-seam from 6 to S.

Then draw the under sleeve from 5 at elbow to P, and add a stand for the buttons.

DIAGRAM 45.—It is often desirable to change the seams in order that they shall lie more under the arm, or sew into the sidebody instead of the back.

To accomplish this, draw a line across on the ordinary sleeve, R to X, and fix a point in the middle Q.

Point A, the dot, is point F on Diagram 41.

Go down from Q to O ¾ or 1 inch, and sweep from O over toward S and Y, pivoting at A.

Continue the sleeve head curve from R to Y, and from where it crosses the sweep at Y redraw the back-seam to the elbow near A.

As the width of the upper sleeve has been increased, we take the distance R Y and reduce the seam from X to S that amount, and from this point draw the under sleeve to the elbow.

From the front line at 9 fix a point 1 inch on the under sleeve at V. Now, pivoting at T, sweep from 9 to V U, which makes the length from T to U the same as from T to V.

Now draw the inside-seams from V to T and U to the same place, U being also 1 inch from 9. Then curve from P to U.

DIAGRAM 46.—This is made the same as the last one, only there is more space between 6 and 5.

Establish A, 1½ to 2 inches below F, and make the sweep by O at elbow.

Remodel the sleeve head from E to 5 by extending the curve of the upper part, and from where it crosses the sweep draw the elbow-seam.

Take off what has been added—E to 5—from the under sleeve—D to 4—and from 4 draw to 2.

The same amount may be taken off on the inside as on Diagram 45, if so desired, or it may be left as shown, without any change.

LARGE SLEEVE HEAD.

DIAGRAM 47.

Take a regularly cut sleeve, and on this mark a line through the center, O A, and also mark the elbow line.

Lay it down on a sheet of paper and mark along it from the elbow down, H to 10 and G to T, and across from T to 10.

_The upper part is shown by P and S._

From S by H sweep to F.

From P by G sweep to R.

Draw a line straight across the top of sleeve head—each way from A—at right angles with line O A.

A to C is 2½ inches, and C to D is the same.

Go over from A to N 3 inches, and the same from A to B, and square up from these points.

Hold the sleeve at H and swing it over at top till point A will rest on line B 7, and when in this position draw along its edge from F to H and F to 9.

Shape the top from 9 upward in a nearly straight line to E, and from thence through 8 to D as represented.

_Points 8 and E are not established, except by the run of this curve, which must be directed by the eye._

Put the pattern in the first position, and holding it at G move it over till A rests on line N; then mark the elbow line, R to G.

To obtain the back curve we place the distance from the line at 7 to 8 over from 6 to fix 5, and that of B to E over from N to get 3. Through these points shape the sleeve head.

This large sleeve is shown by the solid black lines R, D, E and F, H, 10 and R, G and T.

The under sleeve is not changed.

This gives a good, fairly full sleeve; but if one is wanted quite full, take the one just made, lay it down on paper, and proceed as follows:

Place the under sleeve against the upper at the wrist, T, and closing about 2 inches below the elbow, as shown on the diagram.

It will overlap a trifle at M, but this is of no consequence. The object is to keep the elbow width nearly the same and not change the wrist in size.

In this position we gain all the distance between R and 2, which is the amount it increases in size.

Now draw along the front-seam F to 10, up from F to D, and from D curve past 4 to 2 in such a shape that the line will have a curve between 4 and D similar to that between D and 9.

This sleeve has no back-seam, as its outer edge is the one shown on the diagram Z, 2, D, F, 10 and G.

In sewing it into the armhole it requires a heavy box-plait on the center of top at Y and a series of side plaits on each side of this point until it has been reduced to the size of the armhole.

A VERY FULL SLEEVE.

DIAGRAM 48.

This sleeve can be easily held as close from the elbow down as an ordinary sleeve, as follows:

Take any sleeve pattern—upper and lower parts—and draw a straight center line from F to G, to which mark line Y X at right angles.

Lay the upper and the under sleeve with the elbow at H, so that they will be separated at G 1½ inch. _This is correct when the wrist of the sleeve used is small, but when of medium size the distance should be only 1 inch._

Mark along the edges of the patterns used from X and Y down.

Using X as pivot sweep over from point R, which will go to 2.

_According to the size wanted, or the volume of fullness in the upper part, we add on the sweep from R to 2 either 3 inches for medium or 4 for an extra large sleeve._ Then holding the pattern used at X, swing it over until point R reaches 2, and then follow along its inside edge from 2 to X for the seam.

By Y on the lower sleeve sweep from O toward point 3 from Q.

Now add from Q to 3 on the sweep the same amount as has been added on the upper sleeve from R to 2, which gives point 3; and pivoting at Y, swing the inside sleeve forward to 3, and shape the in-seam from 3 to Y.

Draw a straight line from 2 to 3; this gives us point P.

P to O is 4 inches. Making O the pivot, sweep the upper curve from 6, passing F and 4 and reaching 5.

As we must retain some semblance of an under arm, we reduce this sweep from 4 to 3 by going inside of 5 about 1½ inch.

This sleeve closes with buttons and has a strip 1¼ inch wide sewed on the under sleeve to act as a button stand.

It may sometimes be advisable to have the buttons run toward the top of wrist. In such a case, whatever is placed forward is added to the under part, as shown.

SLEEVE FOR SHIRT WAISTS.

DIAGRAM 49.—This style of sleeve is worn with shirt waists, dresses and wash fabrics.

Sometimes the sleeve head is plain or with only a slight fullness, but it may have a large and full sleeve head.

In case it is to be plain or to have only a slight fullness, use an ordinary sleeve pattern and lay the top and undersides together at the elbow O, and closing at top P, or separated only 2 or 3 inches for some little fullness.

In this position it is open at the bottom, V to Z.

The lower curve is drawn from T through Z and V to U, as illustrated.

There is no elbow-seam, as the sleeve is cut in one piece.

A modification of this sleeve is to gather it in from 1 to 2, close to the arm, which gives a loose sleeve above these points and a ruffle effect at the bottom.

This sleeve can be cut for a puff effect by using the top of a large sleeve such as has been shown.

DRESS SLEEVES.

DIAGRAMS 50 AND 51.—On low-neck dress waists these sleeves are generally made short. Some reach only a few inches below the armhole and some to the elbow.

The manner of cutting is very simple.

Take a sleeve pattern and lay the upper against the lower part on the back-seams, as shown on these diagrams, and draw along the top and on the side.

Fix whatever length is wanted and cut across from W to X (Diagram 50), curving somewhat above a straight line at Y.

Another style is to curve, as shown by Diagram 51, from B to C and A.

Yet another style is, curve from C up to the middle of sleeve at U, and from U to A. This style is, however, made a little wider at U, so as to allow these two points to overlap about 1 inch.

SINGLE-BREASTED VESTS.

DIAGRAM 52.

The measures by which the diagram on the opposite page were produced are as follows:

Back length, 15. Front length, 18¼. Blade, 10. Height under arm, 7½. Breast, 36. Waist, 25. Length of front, 23.

The method of delineating is the same as for a waist pattern in the main points.

Square the lines O C and O F. O to 1 is ¾ inch. Measure from 1 to B, the back length 15. B to A is the height under arm, 7½. From both points draw lines across.

B to D is ¹⁄₁₂ breast. Draw the back line from 1 through D. From this line (point A1) to K is the blade measure, 10 inches.

This is ⅔ of a 30 size, as shown by the number 15 on the square.

Take ¼ of this, which is 3¾, and place it from K to L.

Draw a line up and down from K and one up from L.

Divide the distance L to top line in halves, which locates the star.

Point Y is in the middle between the star and the top line. O to 2 is ⅛ of 15.

From 2 to Z, which is in the middle between the star and Y, draw a line.

Curve the armhole from X to 12.

A1 to G is one-half of the full breast, 18 inches.

In the middle between G and K locate point P, from which point a line is drawn up to E. E to F is ⅙ breast, 3 inches.

From F through G draw a straight front line. F to N is ⅙ breast, 3 inches.

Apply the front length from 1 inch in front of J at waist up to line E, less the width of top of back, and locate E by the measure, whether it goes above or below the top line. In this case it falls on the top line.

From E to Y draw a line and place the distance 2 X of the back from E to locate 13, and finish the armhole. Line K to 00 is the same distance as from Z to X.

Divide the distance G K into three parts, giving points S and T. From S go back ½ inch to U. Also divide the distance from the front waist line at H to the side at J into 3 parts, to locate the points Q and R.

Now from U through Q draw a straight line, and draw another from T through R. Measure the distance on the waist line from D to H, which will be found to be 18 inches. Deduct 1 inch from this, leaving 17.

Width, 17. ½ waist, 12½. ———————— Difference, 4½.

This difference is to govern the darts, each of which will therefore require a width of 2⅛ inches.

Place this 2⅛ inches equally on each side of Q to 4 and 5, and of R to 6 and 7.

From the point V, which is about ⅓ way from U to Q, draw the dart lines through 4 and 5, and let the line below 4 to A be straight down, and that from 5 to B have only a slight spring from a straight line.

Draw in the seams from W through 6 and 7, holding the line from 6 to C straight, and giving that from 7 to D a little spring—say about 1 inch forward from a line drawn down at right angles with the waist line.

Divide the distance between A1 on the back and G, which gives point 12.

From D at back of waist place ½ of the waist measure and 1 inch to point 9.

From the front at H to 4, 5, 6 and 7 to 8 place ¼ of the waist less 1 inch.

Then draw in the under-arm seams from 12 through 8 and 9, adding a little spring below the waist line to E and F.

Apply the length from E to M at the bottom, which for this draft is 23 inches.

From M draw a straight line parallel with the waist line to T.

In the middle between T and 8 mark a point, which is E, and from E to M draw a straight line.

Follow this line from E to D, and a trifle above it locate C; draw to B, and then even across from B will be A. From this point draw down to the line M.

Reduce the width of shoulder from X to 3, 1 to 1½ inch, for small sizes 1 inch, but for larger sizes 1½ inch is preferable. The same must be reduced on the front shoulder from 13 to 14. The form from E to N is for a front to button up to the neck, and usually has a standing collar.

If, however, it is desired to have an open front, measure from E down the front line to point 20, the opening wanted, which may be 10, 12 or 14 inches, always remembering that the width of the top of the back must be subtracted.

Beyond G go out ½ inch, and then curve the front edge as shown.

Even with point E at the lower part of the vest draw a line across, which gives the bottom of the back—the line F to G.

As the vest is generally worn over a corset, it would be too large around the waist if cut by the measure taken over a dress, so we must reduce the size at the waist by inserting a V from 16 to 15, which will be ½ inch in width.

DIAGRAM 53.—After following the explanations given for Diagram 52, we place above point E to 1 the width of the top of the back, which is 2 to O on the preceding diagram.

Having located the point to which we want the opening to extend—at G for instance—draw a straight line from G to the shoulder point E.

From just in front of the line squared up from E, start to curve the outer edge, drawing it so that it will be a trifle inside of the line at 4 and ending at G.

Go back from E ½ inch, make the distance 1 to 2 the same as 3 and E, and draw out the shape of the collar as shown. The collar can then be traced out on a separate piece of paper.

All the points on this diagram are drawn in the same way as those on the foregoing, but for this vest we reduce the front by one dart only.

In drafting, however, it is best to first draw both darts. Then knowing the amount which must be taken out, we can so modify it that it will be right with one dart.

While we cannot cut out the total amount of the two darts in one, we can reduce the size by one dart by making its width from R to S ⅓ less than the full amount of the two darts, and we can then reduce to the size required under the arm at Y.

The position of the dart in the middle between the two original darts has already been so clearly explained and illustrated that it is not necessary to go over it again.

DOUBLE-BREASTED VESTS.

DIAGRAM 54.—When the draft has been drawn to the front edge, as shown on Diagram 52, add over the front edge for a double-breasted at B 1¾ to 2 inches, and at A 2½ to 3 inches, depending on the amount of lap-over you wish.

As the button-holes must always be ¾ inch from the edge, it will be necessary to take the distance from the end of the button-holes to the center line, and place this back from the center of the front to locate the place for the buttons.

On Diagram 53 we have shown the manner of arranging the collar on a flat surface. In the case of double-breasted fronts the same method can be followed by drawing the break line from the shoulder point to the point of opening at A wherever this may be desired.

Add above O to 1 the width of the top of the back, and draw the break line with some curve below O, as shown by the dotted line.

Next shape the collar as shown by the dotted line, or in any other form that may suggest itself.

In drafting a collar by what may be called the old method, make the break line straight from O to A, but instead of following this as for a flat collar, we commence at O and curve the seam-edge by C and to about 1 inch above A; we then extend from O to 2 the width of back, and draw the stand from D through C, along the curve to A, after which we shape the outer edge from 1 to A, according to taste or style.

The two darts inserted in this forepart should always be put into vests, the material of which is hard to make; but on soft goods one dart, as shown on Diagram 55, will answer as well.

DIAGRAM 55.—On this diagram we have a change, which is generally desirable, as the seam between the forepart and the lapel gives the garment a close fit without the aid of extra work in shrinking in the edge.

In cutting the lapel, follow the same rule as that used in drafting the double-breasted jacket, Diagram 28.

Trace along the front edge of the forepart from E to B, and keep the same shape from B to J.