Part 1

THE “KEYSTONE” JACKET AND DRESS CUTTER. A TREATISE ON JACKETS, DRESSES AND OTHER GARMENTS FOR WOMEN. SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR SELF-INSTRUCTION.

BY CHAS. HECKLINGER.

NEW YORK: THE HERALD OF FASHION CO., 15 West 27th Street.

1895.

ENTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1895, BY

THE HERALD OF FASHION CO.,

IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CONGRESS AT WASHINGTON, D. C.

INDEX.

PAGE Title 1 Preface 6 Introduction 7 The Measures 8 Drafting the Waist 12 Large Form with Extra Length of Waist 18 Stout Form 20 Erect Form 22 Stooping Form 24 The Eton Jacket 26 The Bolero or Zouave Jacket 28 The Darts in the Forepart 29 The Dart for a Very Narrow Front 30 Darts for Small-waisted Forms 31 Low-neck Waist 32 Jackets 33 Jackets with Full Skirts 36 Short Jacket with Plaited Skirt 40 Cutaway Jackets 41 Covert Jacket 42 Frock Coat 44 Cutaway Frock Jacket 46 Riding Jacket, Double-breasted 48 Riding Jacket, Single-breasted 50 Shirt Waists 52 Shirt Waist with Yoke 54 The Plain Sleeve 56 Changes from the Plain Sleeve 58 Large Sleeve Head 60 A Very Full Sleeve 62 Sleeve for Shirt Waist 64 Single-breasted Vests 66 Double-breasted Vests 70 Collars 72 Broad Collars 75 Full Round Collar 76 Three-quarter Cape 76 Plain Cape 78 Wrap-shaped Cape 78 The Ulster 80 Dress Skirts 82 The Full Dress Skirt 84 Riding Skirt 86 Trousers 90 Breeches 92

PREFACE.

In preparing this work an endeavor has been made to do three things: First, to make the systems the simplest and most reliable ever offered to the trade; second, to illustrate and explain them so clearly and fully that to study and not understand them will be impossible; and third, to consider and exhaustively treat every style of garment made for women by tailors and dressmakers. That the success attained may be considered commensurate with the intention, study and labor the work represents, is the earnest hope of the

AUTHOR.

INTRODUCTION.

Recognizing the great and growing need of a reliable and comprehensive text book on ladies’ tailoring, and in response to the innumerable inquiries for such a work that have come to the writer during the past few years, the systems and technical information given in these pages were made and compiled. The systems are the outgrowth of the practical experience of the author and of many others who are expert in ladies’ tailoring, and combine simplicity and accuracy as they were never before combined in the systematic delineation of ladies’ garments.

They are essentially the same as those published by the same author some years ago, the principles of which have been demonstrated to be sound by severe and long continued tests under every variety of condition; but they have been so improved as scarcely to be recognized and are, for all practical purposes, new systems. That this work contains a larger amount of valuable information about ladies’ tailoring than is contained in all other works on the subject ever published, will be cheerfully admitted, we are sure, by any one who carefully studies it.

THE MEASURES.

The greatest possible care should be taken in measuring to obtain correct lengths and widths, as only right measures will enable us, in drafting, to define the size and position or attitude of the form measured.

We must, therefore, take the measures from and to accurately located points.

The height of the neck can be easily and correctly located by the eye, and the front and bottom of the arm by the use of a small square; but the waist line, which is a measuring station of the greatest importance, must be defined as follows:

Place an elastic band around the waist, just above the hips, and adjust it so that it is perfectly level.

_Whether the waist is to be long or short, the band must be placed as directed; the actual waist length can then be increased or diminished according to style or taste._

As the measures that terminate at the belt govern the balance of the garment and indicate attitude, the importance of adjusting it accurately _and always over the same part of the waist will be apparent_.

Having adjusted the belt, proceed as follows:

THE BACK LENGTH.

Apply the measuring tape to the socket bone at the neck as marked by A, Figure 1, and measure down to the lower edge of the belt, which gives the actual length of the back.

Should we desire to make the waist longer or make it appear so, because taste or style requires it, take what extra length may be suggested before removing the tape from the neck.

For a jacket we continue down to the point where the bottom should be, and for a long ulster, to the floor, as to D and E.

FRONT LENGTH.

Placing the tape to the same point at neck, carry it along the neck, and let it fall over the shoulder past the front of the arm. It should not be drawn down close against the arm but should pass from 1 to 1½ inch in front of it, but not over the bust, straight down to the bottom of the belt at the side, as shown on Figure 2, where the point is marked N.

THE FRONT OF ARM.

This is also called the “Blade Measure.” For this we use a small square with a short tape measure attached.

This square is placed under the arm, against which, as it hangs straight down, it presses firmly.

The tape is then drawn smoothly across to the center of the back, at B, as shown on Figure 1, and the measure noted.

THE HEIGHT UNDER ARM.

Without removing the square draw the tape downward, being careful not to disturb or lower the square, and measure to the bottom of the belt at G.

Should the square have changed its position, replace it close up to the arm again.

THE LENGTH OF SLEEVE.

While the square is in position draw the tape down straight to the wrist at K, or to the point desired for the length of the sleeve.

This ends the usefulness of the square.

THE BREAST MEASURE.

Standing behind the figure we place the tape across the fullest part of breast and carry it under the arms and across the back, being careful that it adheres over the surface closely, and call off the measure. This should be smoothly taken, neither too close nor too easy.

THE WAIST MEASURE.

Remove the elastic belt, and place the tape around the waist and draw it tight. Should a belt be worn it had better be removed, especially when measuring for a dress-waist. In the latter case take the size very close.

THE HIP MEASURE.

Is taken 6 inches below the natural waist, always easy, and smoothly around. No measure is required below the hips.

THE ELBOW.

The elbow measure is taken close to obtain the size of arm. Any width can easily be added over this for easy sleeves.

THE WRIST.

Around the cuff of dress or wrist, also taken close to obtain the right size, any extra size needed is added.

On button-up dresses take a close neck measure.

THE SYSTEM.

DRAFTING THE WAIST.

DIAGRAM 1.

I shall commence to explain the drafting of ladies’ garments by showing first how a waist pattern is produced.

This being the covering for the body, from the neck down to the natural waist its construction gives the principle on which all close-fitting garments are based. Whatever the shape or measures used, the points are all established on this principle; and this, therefore, will be the foundation of all our drafts.

We shall use the following measures to draft by:

Back length to natural waist, 15 inches. Front length to side of hip, 18½ „ The blade, or front of arm, 10 „ The height under the arm, 7½ „ Breast, 36 „ Waist, 24 „

Begin by drawing the line O B, and at a right angle with this draw the line O F.

From O to 1 place ¾ inch. _This is always the same, whether the measure is small or large._

From 1, which will be the top of back, apply the natural waist length, which is 15 inches, giving point B.

Upward from B place the height under the arm, 7½ inches in this case, giving point A. Now square lines across from A and B.

From B to C is ¹⁄₁₂ of the breast size. Draw a line from C to 1 at top of back, and from where this line crosses the breast line at A1, apply one-half the breast measure, 18 inches, to locate G.

From A1—the back-seam—measure out the “Front of Arm” measure to K. This is 10 inches. At K square a line up and down, as shown to I and J.

_Now, on the long arm of the square, we find what size is given on the_ TWO-THIRDS _scale opposite the 10-inch (size of blade) point. Having ascertained what it is—for this size it is 15, or ½ of 30_—we find on the short arm 15 on the Scale of Fourths—3¾ inches—and this amount we place back from K to obtain L, from where a line is drawn up to the top line.

Divide the distance between the top—V—and the under-arm line in halves, which gives point Z.

Point T is half-way between Z and the top line, point V.

In the middle, between T and Z, is point 3.

From O to 2 is ⅛ of the blade, 15, the amount found as explained above in italics. Connect 2 with 3 by a straight line, and curve the top of the back from 1 to 2.

O to 9 is ⅓ of the breast, 6 inches. Square a line down from 9. Opposite Z is 8 on the line just drawn.

From X to C draw a straight guide line. Make the width of the bottom of the back, C to D, 1½ inch and form the back.

Measure the distance G to K, and in the middle locate P, from which point square up to E on the top line.

To locate the front length in accordance with the measure, apply the tape 1 inch in front of J on the waist line, as at the dot, and measure up to E, the front length, 18½ inches, _less the width of the top of back_. This will place point E on the upper line in this case.

But this measure will vary for erect and stooping forms. For erect forms it will reach above the upper line, as on Diagrams 6 and 7, and then a line is drawn to the front as E to F, from which point the neck is formed.

For stooping figures this measure is short and will not reach to the top line, as seen on Diagram 8, where it is fully explained.

E is the front shoulder point. Now draw a straight line from E to T.

Place from E to F ⅙ of the breast measure, and to N the same from F down.

Next draw a straight line for the run of the front from F down through G, reaching H.

DIAGRAM 2.

Take the distance of back shoulder from 2 to X, place it on the line from E to 13, and curve the front shoulder slightly.

The distance between the lines X and 3 is placed forward of line K, giving line O O.

Form the armhole from 13 to O O and K.

Go in from 8 to top of sidebody ¼ inch; curve the side-seam from 11 up, and finish the armhole, being careful not to curve too much at W.

DIAGRAM 3.

From D to 16 is 1 inch.

The sidebody seam is now drawn from 11 down to 16, with a slight round.

Go out from G to the front line ½ inch and shape the front from N, passing the star near G, and touching at H.

Divide the distance G K into 3 parts, which gives S and T.

Place point U ½ inch back of S.

Divide the distance H and J into 3 parts, giving points Q and R.

Draw lines from U through Q and from T through R, for the center of the darts.

Make V ⅓ from U to Q, and make W ½ inch higher.

Measure the pattern from C to D and 16 to H, which will be found to be 17 inches, an amount much too great for the size of the waist.

The amount _that it is too large_ must be taken out in darts, two of which we take out on every waist.

The size of the pattern is 17 inches.

Pattern, 17 inches. ½ waist, 12 inches. —— Difference, 5 inches.

We add a cut under arm of ½ inch, which amount is to be taken from this 5 inches, leaving 4½ inches for the darts. This gives us 2¼ inches for each dart, which amount is placed equally on each side of the center lines Q and R.

From Q, therefore, to 4 and 5 1⅛ inch, and from R to 6 and 7 is also 1⅛ inch.

Now draw the darts.

DIAGRAM 4.

On this diagram take the distance from the dart at 7 to 16, and divide it into 3 parts, giving points 15 and 17.

From point 15 draw a straight line up to 14, parallel with that from J to K.

From point 17 draw the line so that it will be nearly parallel with line 14 to 15.

But it may be desirable to obtain a sidebody narrow at the armhole; if it is, place the line closer to the back.

At 12 nip a slight amount from the middle sidebody, but let the upper point remain on the same level, so that one seam will not be shorter than the other.

Curve the seam slightly below L by taking out no more than ¼ inch.

On the seam 14 to 15 we must take out ½ inch at 15—the amount we subtracted from the total waist when regulating the darts.

Add to the front length from H to 10 1 inch, and shape bottom edge from 16, which is ½ below the waist line, to 17, on to 15 and forward to 10.

LARGE FORM WITH EXTRA LENGTH OF WAIST.

DIAGRAM 5.

The measures by which this diagram was drafted are as follows:

Waist length, 15–20½. Front length, 18½. Blade measure, 10¾. Height under arm, 7½. Breast, 40. Waist, 28. Hip, 46.

Draw all the lines and establish all the points in the same manner as already explained, with the following exceptions:

The pattern measures from C to D and 16 to H, 19½ inches, while the waist is only 14 inches.

Pattern, 19½ inches. Waist, 14 inches. —— Difference, 5½ inches.

Taking off ½ inch for the cut under the arm leaves us 5 inches to be divided and applied to the two darts, or 2½ inches to each.

This is applied equally on each side of the center lines Q and R.

To give the darts a good shape, draw a line in the middle between V and W and 5 and 6, and make the seams run below 5 and 6 to 2 and 3, with only a perceptible difference in width at 2 and 3 beyond that at 5 and 6.

From 4 on the waist line the seam is straight to 1, but from 7 to O it springs out nearly, or quite, to the straight center line of dart.

After the under-arm seams have been established, draw a line across 6 inches below the waist line for the hip.

Draw a line from the top of the sidebody through point 16 at waist, and curve below 16 somewhat for round of hip, or about ½ inch from E to 9.

Draw a straight guide line from C down at right angles with the waist line, then extend the back-seam line down from C, so that it will be in the middle between the two dotted lines and reach to F.

From D draw the line straight down square with the waist line.

Next to establish the spring needed for hip room according to the measures, we first measure F to E, then 9 to O, then 3 to 2, and then 1 to front line M.

This gives us 19 inches, while ½ of the hip is 23 inches.

Hip, 23 inches. Pattern, 19 inches. —— Difference, 4 inches.

These 4 inches must be added to make the draft roomy enough to cover the hips.

The lines under the arms having been drawn as far as necessary, we place on either side of them to C and D 1 inch, and the same to A and B, making the allowance at each place 2 inches, or equal to the size we must have.

Commencing then at 17, draw to C and D, and commencing at 15 draw to A and B.

The lower edge may be drawn as on this diagram by shortening it over the hips, or it may remain on the lower straight line.

“_Remember in getting the size of the hips not to include the darts, as they are established and their amount is to be cut out._”

STOUT FORM.

DIAGRAM 6.

The measures for this diagram are:

Length of back, 15–19½. Front length, 20. Blade, 13. Height under the arm, 7. Breast, 46. Waist, 33.

Obtain all the points by the measures as explained, with the following exceptions:

Mark a point 1 inch in front of J on the waist line.

Measure up from this point to the line at E, applying the front length 20, less the width of the top of the back. This measure locates point E somewhat above the top line, in this case 1 inch. It may, however, be more or less on different forms, as much in fact as 2 inches for very stout figures.

When point E has been established, draw a line over to F and place ⅙ of breast to locate F.

Then ⅙ breast is placed below F for the neck or height of gorge.

The neck in front is always regulated by the position of the shoulder point, and rises or falls with it.

On large forms, such as we are now considering, the distance between the darts and the back is so great that it is advisable to make three sidebodies.

Take the distance between the dart point 7 and the point of the sidebody at 16 and divide this in the middle, which gives B.

Then divide 7 and B, fixing 15, and also B and 16, locating 17.

Draw the first two lines, 14 to 15 and A to B, straight up, and that from 17 to 12 with the view of gaining a narrow form at top. Draw the seams by curving slightly, as suggested by the diagram.

The hip room is in this case divided on the three seams, each one being increased, of course, less than when there are only two used.

Should the form be very fleshy over the stomach, it will be necessary to add a trifle extra spring to the dart-seams below the waist line, as shown by 1, 2 and 3.

ERECT FORM.

DIAGRAM 7.

The measures of this draft are:

Length of back, 16–20. Length of front, 21. Blade measure, 10½. Height under arm, 8. Breast, 38. Waist, 26. Hip, 44.

All the points are located as already explained, with the following exceptions:

To establish the front shoulder apply the front length from the dot at side to line at E. This will reach above the top line.

_Always deduct from this measure the width of the top of back._

When E has been located, draw the line over to F, and place ⅙ of breast forward from E to fix F.

From F go down ⅙ breast to N for the neck, and draw all the other lines as directed.

It will be seen that the lower edge is kept straight across the hip line, the same as on a short jacket.

STOOPING FORM.

DIAGRAM 8.

For this form the measures are:

Length of back, 16–18. Front length, 18½. Blade, 10½. Height under arm, 7½. Breast, 36. Waist, 25.

The points are located by these measures as previously explained, with the following exceptions:

In drawing in the darts, guide lines may be of benefit. These are as follows:

After the points have been located, draw straight lines from V through 4 and 5, and from W through 6 and 7.

It will be seen that from 4 down to 8 the dart-seam must run nearly straight down, and that those from 5 to 9 and 6 to 3 follow with the same shape. The one from 7 to 2, however, must have more spring, or twice as much from the dotted line as any of the others.

The front length in this case is short because of the stooping figure and flatness of chest.

Applying the front length, 18½ inches, toward E, it will not reach to the top line, but falls, instead, 1 inch below it.

When fixed, place over from 12 to F, on a line drawn from 12, the usual ⅙ breast, and from F to N the same.

_Whenever the shoulder point is low the neck must follow._

As stooping forms usually have prominent shoulder-blades, it is necessary to enlarge slightly the opening between the top of the sidebody and the back at 8, and take out at waist (16) ¼ to ⅜ inch more to conform with the curve of the blade, and at the same time to enlarge the opening at Z a trifle.

It is also an advantage to take a measure from the neck in front, N, to the natural waist, to determine how long the front should be.

A form like the one just described needs no change in the darts.

THE ETON JACKET.

DIAGRAM 9.

After the right-angled lines O F and O B have been drawn, place from O to 1 the regular ¾ inch.

From 1 to B is the length of the natural waist.

B up to A the height under the arm.

The other fitting points are all fixed by the measures, as already explained.

When point X has been established, lay the square against the back line A1 and D, and move it up or down till its short arm will rest on point X, and then draw a line to X.

Next place the square on this line and square down from X to 8, giving thus the best run of the scye line of the back.

This method can be used on all drafts, instead of merely relying on the eye.

Only one dart is needed and cut in these jackets, and we must therefore reduce the size one-third at the side under the arm, leaving only two-thirds for the dart as the amount to be suppressed to the size of the waist.

In locating the one dart, start it from the center point P and let the line run parallel with the front edge, which causes the distance Q H to be equal to that of P to G, and then place what is to be taken out in a dart on either side of Q to 5 and 6.

Do not curve the lines of the dart below the waist line, but follow the form shown at S and T. This will cause the jacket to cling close to the waist, while if spring were added it would be loose on the lower edge and flare out.

The shape at the bottom is 1 to 1½ inch longer than the natural waist at back, point 10, and only ½ to ¾ inch over the hips; but toward the front it points downward, giving the effect desired.

The star below the shoulder point E is 1 inch from the curve of the neck.