Category: Travel Writing

The Idler in France

I have omitted to notice the route to this place, having formerly described the greater portion of it. I remarked a considerable improvement in the different towns we passed through: the people look cleaner, and an air of business has replaced the stagnation that used to preva...

Chapters

5. Chapter 5

_June_, 1828.--A fatiguing journey, over dusty roads, and in intensely hot weather, has brought us to Paris, with no accident save the failure of one of the wheels of our large...

26. Chapter 26

_August 5th_.--There are rumours today that the son of the Emperor Napoleon will be called to fill the vacant throne. This seems to me to be very improbable, when I reflect that...

10. Chapter 10

Made the acquaintance of the celebrated Dr. P----, today, at Madame C----'s. He is a very interesting old man; and, though infirm in body, his mind is as fresh, and his vivacity...

11. Chapter 11

In no part of Paris are so many children to be seen us in the gardens of the Luxembourg. At every step may be encountered groups of playful creatures of every age, from the infa...

9. Chapter 9

An agreeable party dined here yesterday--Lord Stuart de Rothesay, our Ambassador, the Duc and Duchesse de Guiche, the Duc de Mouchy, Sir Francis Burdett, and Count Charles de Mo...

7. Chapter 7

Took possession of our new house to-day, and are delighted with it. Its repose and quiet are very agreeable, after the noise and bustle of the Rue de Rivoli. Spent several hours...

17. Chapter 17

The more I observe Lady C---- the more surprised I am at the romantic feelings she still indulges, and the illusions under which she labours;--yes _labours_ is the suitable word...

8. Chapter 8

Charles Kemble dined here yesterday, and in the evening read to us his daughter Fanny's Tragedy of _Francis the First_--a very wonderful production for so young a girl. There is...

13. Chapter 13

Went to see the Hôtel d'Orsay, to-day. Even in its ruin it still retains many of the vestiges of its former splendour. The _salle à manger_, for the decoration of which its owne...

16. Chapter 16

The approach of spring is already visible here, and right glad am I to welcome its genial influence; for a Paris winter possesses in my opinion no superiority over a London one,...

1. Chapter 1

I have omitted to notice the route to this place, having formerly described the greater portion of it. I remarked a considerable improvement in the different towns we passed thr...

20. Chapter 20

September, 1829.--A chasm of many months in my journal. When last I closed it, little could I have foreseen the terrible blow that awaited me. Well may I exclaim with the French...

14. Chapter 14

Count Charles de Mornay dined here yesterday, _en famille_. How clever and amusing he is! Even in his liveliest sallies there is the evidence of a mind that can reflect deeply,...

18. Chapter 18

Read Victor Hugo's _Dernier Jour d'un Condamné!_ It is powerfully written, and the author identifies his feelings so strongly with the condemned, that he must, while writing the...

12. Chapter 12

Spent last evening in the Rue d'Anjou: met there la Marquise de Pouleprie, and the usual _habitués_. She is a delightful person; for age has neither chilled the warmth of her he...

24. Chapter 24

I have observed a striking change in the manners of the servants during the last three days. They are more familiar, without, however, evincing the least insolence; their spirit...

25. Chapter 25

I have but just returned from the Rue d'Anjou, and now that I find myself once more within the sanctuary of my home, I am surprised at my own courage in having ventured to pass...

23. Chapter 23

_28th_.--My _femme-de-chambre_ undrew my curtains this morning, "with such a face--so faint, so spiritless, so dull, so dead in look, so woe-begone"--proclaiming that barricades...

15. Chapter 15

Much as I deplore some of the consequences of the Revolution in France, and the atrocities by which it was stained, it is impossible not to admit the great and salutary change e...

19. Chapter 19

House-hunting all the day with Lord B----. Went again over the Hôtel Monaco, and abandoned the project of hiring it. Saw one house newly built and freshly and beautifully decora...

22. Chapter 22

May.--Some months have elapsed since I noted down a line in this book. Indisposition and its usual attendants, languor and lassitude, have caused me to throw it by. Time that on...

21. Chapter 21

Mr. Rogers and Mr. Luttrell spent last evening here. The minds of both teem with reflection, and their conversation is a high intellectual treat to me. There is a repose in the...

6. Chapter 6

To my surprise and pleasure, I find that a usage exists at Paris which I have nowhere else met with, namely, that of letting out rich and fine furniture by the quarter, half, or...

3. Chapter 3

The town of St.-Rémy is delightfully situated in a hollow that resembles the crater of an extinct volcano, and is surrounded by luxuriant groves of olive. The streets, though ge...

2. Chapter 2

We stopped but a short time at Beaucaire, where we saw the largo plain on the banks of the Rhone, on which are erected the wooden houses for the annual fair which takes place in...

4. Chapter 4

I see little alteration at Lyons since I formerly passed through it. Its manufactories are, nevertheless, flourishing, though less improvement than could be expected is visible...

31. Chapter 31

Fatiguing Journey--Landau Accident--The Hôtel de la Terrasse, in the Rue de Rivoli--Six Years' Absence--The Duc and Duchesse de Guiche--Joy of Meeting--Fashion at Paris--Visit t...

37. Chapter 37

Groups of Children in the Gardens of the Luxembourg--Joyous Sounds--The Nurses--The Child of Noble Birth and that of the _Parvenu_--Joys of Childhood--Contrast between Youth and...

48. Chapter 48

Effects of Indisposition--Instability of Earthly Blessings--Captain William Anson (Brother of Lord Anson)--His varied Acquirements--The pretty Madame de la H---- --Prince Paul L...

51. Chapter 51

Sanctuary of Home--Madame C---- --Intoxicated Revolutionist--His Good-Nature--the Proprietor of a Wine-Shop--Politeness of all Classes in France--Barracks in the Rue Verte--Diff...

52. Chapter 52

Rumour relative to the Son of Napoleon--Unsettled State of Affairs--Conflicting Rumours--The Duke of Orleans--Charms of a Crown--Aspect of the Champs-Elysées--Unsought popularit...

49. Chapter 49

The Dead paraded through the Streets to inflame the Populace--The Shops closed--The Duc de Raguse censured--His Supineness--Devotion of the Duc de Guiche to his Sovereign--The M...

50. Chapter 50

Familiarity of French Servants--Power of the People--Misguided Men--Further Rumours--Who are the People?--An Intruder--A Revolutionary Hero--The Tuileries and the Louvre taken--...

33. Chapter 33

Domestic Arrangements--Changes in Young People--Pleasant Recollections--Lord Lilford--The Marquis and Marquise Zamperi--Comte Alexander de Laborde--The Marquis de Mornay--Mode o...

42. Chapter 42

Approach of Spring--Fogs on the Seine--The Jardins des Tuileries--Impurity of the London Atmosphere--Exhilaration of the Spirits--Anecdote--The Catholic Question--Lord Rosslyn--...

45. Chapter 45

A new Resilience--Consolation in Sickness--House in the Rue de Matignon--Its Interior described--The Library--Drive in the Bois de Boulogne--Atmospheric Influence--The Rocher de...

46. Chapter 46

Unexpected Events--Mr. and Mrs. Mathews--Their son, Charles--Evening Party--Recitations and Songs--Pleasant Recollections--Visit to the _Jardin des Plantes_--Amusing Incident--H...

44. Chapter 44

Victor Hugo's _Dernier Jour d'un Condamné_--Value of Common Sense--Conscience--Cunning--Curiosity Shops on the Quai d'Orsay--Expensive and Tasteful Gifts--An Avaricious Vender--...

47. Chapter 47

Mr. Rogers and Mr. Luttrell--Society of Refined Englishmen--Mercurial Temperament of the French--Opposite Characters--M. Erard's Collection of Pictures--Antique _Bijouterie_--Lo...

41. Chapter 41

Consequences of the Revolution in France--Corruption of the Regency--Sarcastic Verses of St.-Evremond--Reign of Louis the Fifteenth--Lessons taught by Affliction--Dangers of Ana...

40. Chapter 40

Comte Charles de Mornay--His Wit and Good Nature--Mademoiselle Mars, in _Henri III_--Some Account of the Play--Love and Ambition--Curious Incident--Romantic Notions--Passion of...

39. Chapter 39

Visit to the Hotel d'Orsay--Sad Change in it--Mr. Millingon, the Antiquary--Liberality of Comte d'Orsay--A Fanciful Notion--General Or-nano--Unhappy Marriages accounted for--_La...

36. Chapter 36

The celebrated Dr. P---- --Society of Medical Men--Dr. Guthrie--Requisites for a Surgeon--Celebrity and Merit--The Road to Fortune, as related by Dr. P---- --Successful Stratage...

43. Chapter 43

Romantic Feelings of Lady C---- --True Love--Disagreeable Neighbours--Credulity--Mademoiselle Delphine Gay--French Novels--French Critics--Eligible Mansions--Comforts of Seclusi...

38. Chapter 38

The Marquise de Pouleprie---The celebrated Madame du Barry--Anecdote--Mademoiselle Mars in _Valerie_--Her admirable Style of Acting--Playing to the Galleries--Exclusive Nature o...

35. Chapter 35

Lord and Lady Stuart de Rothesay--French Politeness--Mr. D---- and Mr. T---- --Study of Shakespeare--Attractions of Mrs. T---- --Lady Charlotte Llndsay and the Misses Berry--Sir...

34. Chapter 34

Charles Kemble--His Daughter's Tragedy of "Francis the First"--Recollections of John Kemble--The Opera--_Count Ory_--Sir A. Barnard--Secret of Happiness--Visit to Mademoiselle M...

27. Chapter 27

Antiquities of this City--The Hôtel du Midi--Articles of Merchandise--History of the Maison Carrée--Work of Poldo d'Albenas--The Building described--Origin of it--Now used as a...

32. Chapter 32

Custom of letting out Furniture--The Prince and Princesse Castelcicala--Lady Hawarden--Lady Combermere--Tone of Society at Paris--Attentions paid by Young Men to Old Ladies--Fli...

28. Chapter 28

Beaucaire--Wooden Houses--Castle of King René--Church of St. Martha--Fabulous Monster--The Hôtel described--The Hostess--Antique Furniture--Plentiful Dinner--Scrutiny--Visit to...

29. Chapter 29

Situation of the Town--Antiquities--The Triumphal Arch described--Male and Female Figures--The Mausoleum--Bassi-relievi of Battles, Infantry, etc.--Figure of a Winged Female--La...

30. Chapter 30