CHAPTER XI.

TORONTO—“BRITISH ENSIGN”—DIPLOMA—SILVER TEA SET—HAMILTON—BELLEVILLE—DIPLOMA—PICTON.

Winter was now drawing nigh, and, as I was desirous to reach Toronto, the Queen City of the Province of Ontario, as soon as possible, I made but a short stay at Brantford and other towns on my way. Arriving at Toronto about the last of November, 1874, I secured possession of the Riding Academy, and fitted it up at considerable cost, after which I gave public exhibitions, which awakened an increasing interest. I remained there sixty days, my class becoming larger daily, until, at the close of my labors, my register showed the names of nearly thirteen hundred members, many of whom were amongst the most influential citizens of the place. During my stay I handled some two hundred horses, each of whom had been addicted to some bad habit.

Many members of my class were desirous that I should exhibit the power of my system to educate horses not to fear the steam engine, and, that I might meet their wishes, I procured a steam fire engine, which I caused to be placed in my academy. During my stay there I educated some hundred horses to the perfect satisfaction of their owners, and the evident gratification of my class. Amongst others, I may name as a signal triumph of my system the case of the stallion “British Ensign,” owned at Richmond Hill, who, from his vicious habits of long standing, was thought to be incurable, and, as a last resort, I was solicited to handle him. This was at the close of my labors there, and, the day being announced, the members of my class gathered in force to witness my last effort in their city. The horse was led into the ring by two men by means of iron rods securely fastened on each side of his mouth. From the account given of this animal, one would almost expect that a man could tame a lion of the desert as easily as him; but, strange as it may seem, within ten minutes he followed me around the ring as meekly as a lamb, and within forty-five minutes I was able to drive him before a vehicle, without reins or side-straps, greatly to the surprise of the throngs who had assembled to witness the spectacle.

The power and efficacy of my system was so completely demonstrated that the leading journals of the city made favorable mention of my unparalleled success, while my class signalized their sense of the value of my system for properly educating the horse by presenting me with an illuminated address, the elegant execution of which reflects credit on the artist, while the courtly language and graceful sentiments are worthy of the distinguished gentlemen whose names it bears. Not satisfied with this, they accompanied the address with a costly tea-service of silver, the intrinsic value of which was at least three hundred dollars. Long will the recollections of my Toronto class cluster about my memory, and fill my mind with pleasing emotions. The following is the diploma presented by the Toronto class, the original of which can be seen in my possession, on parchment:

TORONTO, _January, 1875_.

_Dear Sir_: The undersigned, on behalf of the members of your numerous class in this city, desire to testify their appreciation of the valuable instructions you have imparted to them. The unwearying assiduity with which you have endeavored to make those instructions comprehensive and entertaining, and their high estimation of your admirable system of educating and managing the horse. The knowledge imparted to us during the many lectures and exhibitions of your unexampled method of treating that noble animal may be of incalculable benefit to many of us. We do not hesitate to say that numbers of accidents occur daily (many fatally) through an insufficient knowledge of managing the animal you have made so perfectly subject to your will, and we advise every one whose business or profession require frequent, if not constant, use of the horse to embrace an early opportunity of acquiring a knowledge of your system. Farmers, whom business occasionally calls into our cities, and the immediate neighborhood of our railways, we especially urge the necessity of learning your simple and effective method of control, a method easily understood by the instructive faculties of the horse as by the reasoning faculties of men.

We trust that your sojourn in the Queen City of the West has been both pleasant and remunerative, so far at least that will at no distant day induce your return.

In conclusion, we beg your acceptance of the accompanying Tea-Service. Hoping that it may recall favorably to your recollection those who constituted your class in Toronto and who unanimously wish you every success in your laudable and humane profession.

Signed, on behalf of the class, numbering 1,254 members.

A. MACNABB, JOS. GRAND, SR., R. BOND, B. COOPER, C. W. JOHNSON, R. PAUL, V. S., A. GOURAM, GEO. GOURAM, R. HAY, SR., R. HAY, JR., W. H. SMITH, J. HAY, HON. GEO. BROWN, T. C. PATTERSON, Mail, A. MCCALLER, M. P. P., W. BROWN, Shoe Manf., HON. FRANK SMITH, ANDREW SMITH, V. S., G. W. TORRANO, Merchant, GEO. SMITH, M. P. P., W. A. MURRAY, Merchant, F. T. WORTS, JAMES G. WORTS, AUSTIN SMITH, And 1,230 others.

Before closing my notice of Toronto, I would refer with grateful words to the kind, and even laudatory, notices which my system and myself received from the ably conducted press of that city, and, I might add, of the whole Province, as the following extracts will evince.

The Toronto _Mail_ thus speaks:

HORSE EDUCATION.—To-day we place before our readers illustrations of several of the numerous articles, with the text of the numerous addresses, presented to Prof. Pratt, the horse educator. By close observation, an accurate knowledge of the construction of the horse and its habits, and above all by a recognition of those sound common-sense principles advanced by the best teachers of the human kind. Mr. Pratt has been enabled to build up a system which for its thoroughness and adaptability is unexcelled in the present day. That this is not an unwarranted assertion is proved incontestably by the testimony of the leading horsemen of the United States and Canada, though Mr. Pratt has been but a short time in the Dominion. Wherever he has established classes, a just tribute has been paid to his great services both to man and beast. In Baltimore 3,590 pupils surrounded him, and he left with the thanks of the citizens, and was presented with a magnificently mounted whip. Detroit rallied 1,200 members, who gave the Professor a musical box to sweetly play the song of their appreciation. The Washington class of 2,500 members, presented a gold medal, and that of Philadelphia, of 4,886 members, a gold-headed cane. Toronto has not been behindhand, for, as already announced, the class here made a presentation of a beautiful tea-service and illuminated address. The Toronto class now numbers 1,254 members.

The Toronto _Globe_, in brief but well considered words, declares:

Prof. Pratt’s lectures on the treatment of animals are invaluable to farmers and all owners of horses and cattle. We only wish every farmer and farmer’s boy in Canada could attend one lecture.

The _Canada Farmer_, the leading agricultural paper of the Province, in describing a visit to my exhibitions and lectures, remarks:

We have seldom passed an evening so pleasantly, or with so much real profit, and our advice to every farmer and farmer’s son in the country is, to take a course of lessons if possible, but at all events to attend one of Professor Pratt’s public exhibitions. We feel perfectly satisfied that a couple of hours spent in witnessing one of these performances will impart a better idea of the nature and management of the horse than is possible to obtain by any course of reading on the subject, and in this respect alone one such entertainment is worth fifty times the amount charged for a life-membership.

I next visited the city of Hamilton, where I was welcomed by many warm friends, who took an active interest in my welfare and seemed delighted with my system, which, at this time, had gained great favor with the Canadian people. Here I formed a large and profitable class, and secured the friendship of many, from whom I have since met a cordial reception.

Leaving Hamilton, I directed my course to the town of Whitby, where I formed a class of one hundred and twenty-five; next visiting Oshawa, where my class reached the number of one hundred and forty; then to Bowmanville, where a class of a hundred rewarded my efforts; from there to Port Hope, where one hundred and fifty joined the class I opened; thence to Belleville, where I enrolled about one hundred names. After having left the latter place for about a week, I was followed by a messenger, dispatched to me by my class, who bore a diploma highly eulogizing my system. It was as follows:

BELLEVILLE, _May 11, 1875_.

PROF. O. S. PRATT.

_Dear Sir_: We, the undersigned, express our satisfaction of the tuition we have received from you in the education of the horse and most cheerfully recommend your art to all who own, have or use horses, as being the best known and exhibited.

The manner in which you handled all the vicious horses brought to you here, completely subduing them in a very short time, gave us the greatest satisfaction.

Your liberality and gentlemanly deportment have secured numerous friends.

Trusting you will meet with the same success in other places that attended you here, and hoping you may be long spared to propagate your noble system of horse training, we are, etc.

(Signed),

H. B. HUNT, Brewer. G. H. RAMOY, C. E. C. RAMOY, Coal Merchant. DR. TRACEY, M. D. S. M. HICKS, Miller. E. F. POTS, Wholesale Liquor Merchant. J. C. L. WARE, P. O. Clerk. JOHN LAKE, Livery. T. C. WALBRIDGE, Ex-M. P. WELLINGTON BOULTER, Insp. Life Ins. Co. GEO. A. SIMPSON, Coal Merchant. STEPHEN GARRETT, Bailiff. HAWLEY & MORDEN, Hawley House. G. W. ALLEN, P.O. Clerk. HENRY MCNINCH, Blacksmith. And ninety others.

From Belleville I went to the town of Picton, where I found many admirers of that noble animal, the horse. Though the place is not large, the people flocked to my exhibitions, and gave me a class of one hundred and forty members, while, after I had left their town, and was engaged at the village of Wellington, twelve miles distant, a deputation from Picton waited on me, and presented me with the following diploma, which will speak for itself:

PICTON, _May 17, 1875_.

PROF. O. S. PRATT:

We, the members of your class, formed in the town of Picton, are unwilling to allow you to take your leave without warmly expressing the great satisfaction that has been ours since your arrival among us. Your plain, lucid and highly interesting lectures, combined with your gentlemanly deportment, has been such as to leave a lasting and beneficial impression on our memories. Your manner of handling vicious and untutored horses has been highly gratifying to us, and the rapid progress made by you clearly proves the superiority of your system. Your book, so replete with instructions, illustrating what we have seen practically demonstrated, will, we believe, greatly benefit us in the practice of your system in future years.

Believe us, dear sir, to bespeak for you unequaled success in your future efforts.

Yours, etc., etc.,

G. STRIKER, M. P. P., E. LOUKS, Rector of Picton. A. M. KERR, Bank Agent. FRED. WHITE, Teller. BIDWELL WAY, Ed. “New Nation.” J. H. ALLEN, Mayor, J. F. INGSOLL, M. D., COLIN GEARING, Merchant. R. A. NORMAN, G. E. VANDUSEN, RICHARD LAKE, Hotel Keeper. M. CLARK, Merchant, And one hundred and twenty others.

After forming classes in several places in the old loyal county of Prince Edward, and meeting with good success, I crossed the beautiful waters of the Bay of Quintie, arriving at the town of Napanee about the first of June, 1875. There I formed a class of one hundred. Pursuing my journey, I traveled north and west, exhibiting at many places, until I reached the town of Peterborough, where I remained a short time, and formed a class of one hundred members. Departing thence, I visited many towns and villages, forming classes in each, on my way to Lindsay, at which place I enrolled the names of seventy-eight members.

From Lindsay I went to Fenelon Falls, quite a newly-erected town, yet I found many there to whom my visit was a pleasure, as I soon obtained a class of some sixty members.

Passing on westward, I continued to meet with success, forming classes in some few small villages until, on the 9th of September, I entered the beautiful town of Barrie. There I found warm friends, and many lovers of the horse, who met me cordially, and gave me a class of one hundred and thirty-five members.

I next shaped my course northward, to the old town of Penetanguishine, on the eastern shore of Georgian Bay. The larger portion of the inhabitants are French Canadians, many of whom are unable to speak our language. I was informed by some of the old inhabitants that the town was first settled a century ago; but, notwithstanding this, their progress has been slow, as at present the population is but about one thousand. My class in this place numbered about seventy persons, who seemed highly pleased with my system of educating the horse.

At Penetanguishine I took passage on the steamer Waubuno for Collingwood. The boat is commanded by Captain Peter Campbell, a courteous gentleman, who possesses the power of so adapting himself to his passengers as to make a trip with him pleasant in both the enjoyment and the retrospect, while the romantic scenery which meets the eye of the voyager who ascends the bay is so beautiful that, were it not for the severity of the winters there, one might easily be tempted to select his home amongst the beauties of nature which adorn the shores of Georgian Bay.

On arriving at Collingwood, I gave an exhibition that created a strong interest among the citizens, and resulted in my forming a good class, who manifested both satisfaction and delight with the instructions I imparted.

After exhibiting at small towns on the way, I arrived at the truly beautiful and lately-incorporated town of Meaford, on the fifth day of October. A drenching rain was falling, which seemed to indicate that my prospects of success would be blighted by the inauspicious storm; but, as the day swept on towards noon, the parting clouds allowed the golden sunbeams to flow through, and, by two o’clock, the whole aspect of the scene was changed. I gave a public exhibition, and formed a class of nearly one hundred members.

From Meaford I traveled over bad roads until I reached Owen Sound. Here I did not find as many lovers of the horse as I anticipated, yet I was pleased before the close of my labors by meeting a good degree of success.

Georgian Bay, near the southern bend of which is Owen Sound, is a beautiful sheet of water, broadening out as it leaves Lake Huron, with which it is connected, and forming what seems like a land-locked lake in itself. Large steamers leave this port for Lake Superior, and many tourists deem this route one of the most pleasing of all on the upper lakes. Ere long, it is asserted, a communication will be opened from this point to Winnipeg and the far-off Province of Manitoba.

Having thus brought my narrative down to the present time, I would add a few words to the reader who may have kindly followed me through the scenes I have recorded. In what I have written one object has been to show the strong and unqualified endorsement my system of equine education has everywhere received from the men best qualified to judge of its merits, while, at the same time, the narrative is a fitting, and I hope not an uninteresting, introduction to the system itself, which, with other matter relating to the general subject, will be fully and clearly taught in the following portions of the book.

And now, with a hearty appreciation of the unvarying kindness he has received from his patrons in all portions of the land, the author begs leave to respectfully dedicate this work to those whose aid, appreciation and friendship have so often cheered him in his efforts.

HISTORY OF THE HORSE

From the earliest ages this noble animal has been the friend and companion of man. Prized for his beauty, loved for his docility, and valued for his strength, he has ever been regarded as the highest in value and importance of all domesticated animals. In the remotest ages, as far back as authentic history discloses anything of the life and pursuits of man, we find that the horse occupied a prominent position in his service. Painters have pictured on their canvas the majesty and grace of the spirited animal. Poets have celebrated his strength and beauty in their verses, and even inspired writers have introduced amongst their most glowing descriptions the horsemen and chariots which formed a chief feature in the pomp and magnificence of those early days.

In the most ancient hieroglyphs we find him present, and always so represented as to show that, even in the remote antiquity from which they date, he had been brought into complete and serviceable subjection. In the oldest Egyptian paintings the horse is seen only in the war chariot, and in the descriptions of the siege of Troy only the charioteer appears, from which it has been supposed that the first horses used by the Greeks were too small to be conveniently ridden. But in the lately-discovered paintings in the palace of Nimrod, at Nineveh, disinterred by Layard, and supposed to be more than three thousand years old, horsemen are exhibited both in the chase and war.

But further back than even those distant times, in the ages where authentic history merges into the shadowy light, amidst which myth and fable mingle with the real, we find this noble animal figuring, but then exalted into a semi-human sphere. The Centaurs, who inhabited the passes of Mts. Pelion and Ossa, and the great plains of Thessaly, in Upper Greece, were probably a race resembling in many respects the Tartars of this age, and are supposed to have been the first who brought the horse into subjection to man. They were fabled as being half horse and half man. They are represented as perfect horses in all respects below and behind the withers and the chest; there, at the insertion of the neck, began a human body, the hip-joints articulating into the shoulders of the lower animal, and the abdomen of the man passing gradually into the chest of the horse. Above this the human form was perfect, with the erect bearing, chest, shoulders, arms, neck and head of a complete man. They were reputed to be possessed of extraordinary mental as well as physical powers, and to be as superior to ordinary men in wisdom and art as they were in fleetness and strength. They were evidently a tribe of horsemen whom the ignorance and superstition of that early period elevated into a superior race, in the supposition that the horse and man were united in one. Everything points to them as being the first who succeeded in breaking and using the horse.

Coming down to the times of authentic history, we find the Parthians to have been amongst the most renowned for their skill in training and using the horse. Their feats of horsemanship in battle showed a complete mastery of the animal, which, in their battles with the Romans, rendered them so efficient as mounted archers.

Frequently, in ancient paintings, the mounted steed is represented without a bridle, and the Numidian cavalry are said to have guided and restrained their horses without it; an assertion by no means improbable, as a Comanche Indian of the present day will frequently jump on the back of a wild and untrained horse, and guide him by the simple expedient of covering with his hand the eye of the animal on the side opposite to that in which he wishes to direct it.

In modern times the horse has been so closely associated with man that he appears in every phase of society, and it is only when his numerous uses are considered that we realize how greatly the human family is his debtor. The knight of the days of chivalry would have been impossible but for the trusty steed which bore him so gallantly in the lists at the tourney, and amidst the deadlier strife of the battle. Before the plow and at the harrow he has multiplied the productions of the earth a hundred-fold beyond what human strength alone could have secured. Laboring before the loaded wagon, he has been a steady drudge for man. Harnessed to the elegant equipage or to the humbler “cab,” or bearing along the dusty highway the stage-coach of the traveler, he has performed a thousand offices indispensable to human comfort and advancement. It is not too much to claim for him that civilization itself would have been shorn of something of its present fair proportions but for the valuable services rendered by this noble animal.

Yet, with all his acknowledged value, the horse has been too frequently the victim of neglect and cruelty; often ill-fed, poorly sheltered, and harshly treated, till, in many cases, the innate nobleness of his nature has been obscured by vicious habits, contracted through the mismanagement or abuse to which he has been subjected, and perpetuated by ignorance and prejudice. Naturally, the horse is usually gentle and confiding; he is quick to perceive, and possesses an excellent memory, which qualities render him capable of being educated easily, and to an extent far greater than is generally supposed. Added to this, he is capable of deep and lasting attachment.

What the horse may have been in his natural state is not known, as none at present exist in that condition. The horses which at the present day are found in a wild state in Northern Asia and America, are known to be the descendants of individuals formerly domesticated. On the prairies of the West, the pampas of South America, and the plains of Tartary, they live in troops, roaming at large, without fixed place of abode, seeking the richest pasturages by day, and resting at night in dry and sheltered situations; these large troops, which have lived independently for many generations, entirely exempt from the influence of man, probably afford a tolerably correct idea of what the primeval animal was. They are generally smaller, yet stronger, than the domesticated animal, with rougher coats, stronger limbs, and larger heads. Even when adult, the wild horse is readily domesticated, and may be broken to any use without great difficulty, thus proving the natural gentleness and docility of his nature. They are captured by the lasso, bitted, mounted, and broken within an hour by the daring and skillful Gauchos.

The Arabians, long renowned for their attachment to the horse, early showed the extent to which intelligent training could develop his finer qualities, and render him the most docile and obedient of animals. Something in that country or its climate is especially suited to the development of the horse, and, although introduced there long after his domestication in other eastern countries, he rapidly attained a degree of excellence which surpassed all others, until the horses of Arabia and the adjacent portions of Asia and Africa became the most celebrated for speed, courage, spirit, intelligence and docility of any of the equine race. Small in size, he has a beautiful, lean, bony head, with a very broad forehead, a tapering muzzle, and large, well-opened nostrils; his mane is very long, thin and silky. It is from the Arabian horse, crossed with the Barb, that the best stock of England and America has sprung. Although much of the superiority of these horses is attributable to peculiarly favorable conditions of the country where they originated, yet many of their excellent qualities may be traced to kindness and intelligent training by which those qualities were first developed, and through which they have been transmitted until they have become characteristics of the race.

The Arabian understands the value of his horse, appreciates the nobility of his nature, and treats him accordingly. They kiss and caress them; they adorn them with jewels, and amulets formed out of sentences of the Koran, as a preservative against evil and accidents. “In short,” says a modern author, “they treat them almost like rational beings, which are ready to sacrifice their lives for their master’s benefit.” In the desert he is the familiar comrade, tentmate and playmate of his master, as docile and intelligent as a dog. Rev. V. Monro relates an anecdote of an Arab, “the net value of whose dress and accoutrements might be calculated at something under seventeen pence half-penny,” who refused all offers made to purchase a beautiful mare on which he rode, declaring that he loved the animal better than his own life. The French author, Dr. St. Pierre, quotes a remarkable instance of the attachment an Arabian feels for his horse: “The whole stock of a poor Arabian of the desert consisted of a most beautiful mare. The French Consul at Said offered to purchase her, with an intention of sending her to his master, Louis XIV. The Arab, pressed by want, hesitated for a long time, but at length consented, on condition of receiving a very considerable sum, which he named. The Consul, not daring, without instructions, to give so high a price, wrote to Versailles for permission to close the bargain on the terms stipulated. Louis XIV gave orders to pay the money. The Consul immediately sent notice to the Arab, who soon after made his appearance mounted on his magnificent courser, and the gold he had demanded was paid down to him. The Arab, covered with a miserable rag, dismounts and looks at the money; then, turning his eyes to the mare, he thus accosts her: ‘To whom am I going to yield thee up? To Europeans, who will tie thee close, who will beat thee, who will render thee miserable. Return with me, my beauty, my darling, my jewel, and rejoice the hearts of my children!’ As he pronounced these words, he sprung upon her back and scampered off towards the desert.”

It is not surprising that such a high appreciation of and fondness for this noble animal, united to an intelligent training, has resulted in the production of a race of horses unrivaled in excellence. But among Europeans and Americans the treatment of the horse has been usually so harsh, and the mode of training so deficient in intelligence, as to greatly lessen his value, even where a brutal ignorance has not brought into activity every vice latent in his nature. Of the numerous faults ascribed to the horse a very small portion are chargeable to his natural disposition, the remainder being the direct result of vicious training, or rather of the absence of training, and the substitution of something which, under that name, first produces and then fosters the faults for which the animal is punished; while often the punishment is ineffectual, because the animal has no conception of why it is made to suffer.

Education is as essential to the horse as it is to man, and in each case it must proceed on the same general principles. Man, if uneducated and untrained would degenerate into barbarism, and the horse, unless brought under subjection to an intelligent will, will remain wild and ungovernable. In each case education is the process by which the higher and better qualities are developed and the lower and evil are restrained. The first grand lesson to be learned by each is that of subjection to authority; the child is taught that by his parent; the horse must learn it from his trainer. But, after that, knowledge is required, and this must be imparted by methods adapted to the nature that is to be cultivated. The object of the practical portion of this book is to show in what that knowledge consists and how it may be communicated to the horse, and so impressed upon his memory that it will never be forgotten. The author has the fullest confidence that the methods of breaking and training the horse, herein taught, will, if early applied, prevent his acquiring any of the faults which, under former systems, have proved so numerous; while the treatment recommended for correcting bad habits, already formed, will prove effectual in even the most stubborn cases, and with the most intractable dispositions. The reader will not be asked to accept any unproved theory, but will be instructed in a system which, although subjected to the severest tests, has never failed to accomplish the desired results. And that it never will fail, the author feels assured, it being firmly based on reason and experience. That it may require patience and self-control on the part of the instructor the author does not deny; but so does the instruction of a child, the breaking of a dog to the gun, or even the training of a vine to its trellis; but the satisfactory results which are certain to be attained will furnish an ample reward.

DIRECTIONS FOR FEEDING AND FITTING A HORSE.

1. TO RAISE A TROTTER SO THAT HE WILL LAST A LONG TIME.—A horse that is going to display great excellence as a trotter will not attain his speed at four years, nor at five, but will reach his highest excellence when the well-bred horse of seven years has been long gone from the turf. _Nothing in nature, soon matured, lasts long._

In fitting a running horse, the case is different, as his constitution is not the same; the colts of blooded horses are inclined to mature earlier than any others, and, being of leaner and wiry build, they can stand more feed at an early period than a lower-bred horse.

There are good reasons, which I fully endorse, for not feeding growing colts much grain. If the colt is weaned, I would recommend from one to two quarts per day, varying the quantity according to his size, as one with a large, loose frame will require more than a close-built colt, which keeps in good order and fills out as he grows up. Good pasturage, however, is the main requisite. Give no corn to colts while they are young. Late in the fall give your colt all the hay he can eat, and be careful to have his oats clean and of good quality. When his first winter comes, let the colt have a good place to run, and be well-housed at night. Never turn such colts out with old horses, calves and heifers; should you do so, you may expect a shivering, scrawny colt, scarcely able to put one leg before the other; while, by avoiding this error, your colt will be as gay and frisky as when standing by its mother.

When weaning, a warm bran-mash, now and then, with a few oats mixed in, will be beneficial; it will do the whole system good, and improve digestion. Give colts and horses all the water they can drink, but do not give it often. Never give a colt physic unless it is sick; to prevent sickness, diet when symptoms of indisposition appear.

Yearling colts should have three quarts of oats per day; their other food must be abundant and good. When two years old in the spring, give four quarts of oats per day; when three years old give six quarts, and when four years old give eight quarts daily.

2. TO MOUTH AND BIT A COLT.—The bitting must not be continued long at a time, from five to twenty minutes is sufficient, great care must be observed not to overdo the colt as short lessons, often repeated, make a better impression and are more lasting. When the colt becomes fatigued his temper will begin to rise, and I am satisfied that two-thirds of horses viciously inclined are made so by improper handling when young. In handling a two-year-old trotter the utmost care, as well as gentleness and firmness, must be exercised. It was not customary, in former times, to handle colts until they were four years old, but later experience has shown the advantages of beginning at an earlier age. A colt can be taught at two years old, and be made to trot at three if the handling is properly done. But a danger to be especially guarded against is the impatience of the owner who, when he finds that the young colt can trot a little, always desires to see him do it more or a little faster. If he pushes the colt in such a way he will soon have one that will do nothing. The only proper and safe way is to proceed gradually, but continually; the colt should be kept at it gently, so as to retain all he learns, which he will do if he is not forced off his feet.

Then break him to ride; mount and dismount, but do not straddle him till he gets accustomed to your getting off and on; then ride him for a few moments, but not so long that he will get leg-weary. I recommend less walking for trotters than was formerly employed.

3. TO EDUCATE HIM FOR THE ROAD.—In doing this the skeleton is preferable, to keep the weight off his back. Take your horse to some track; if there is none, then upon the road; do not speed him along at the same rate; but in short “spurts,” when he will extend himself without injury. If he seems tired, let him up a little. You must watch for such indications, as this is a critical time in the education of your horse. This jogging should not exceed from two to four miles a day, with “spurts” of not over a quarter of a mile. You should carefully ascertain whether or not he improves, as at this age his improvement should be constant. Perhaps, at this time, you may see him break his gait, showing that he has had too much work for his age and has become sore. Then suspend your driving and when he gets well apply my trotting rig as shown in the engraving. The colt then, finding something on his mouth and legs to keep him steady, will alter his way of going. Though he is to be taught to go without being pulled hard, it should still be remembered that the colt or horse will often want to get his head down and feel the bit. The driver should then support him, with as little pull as possible, yet enough to accomplish that purpose; the horse with good mouth will always feel the driver’s hand.

SYSTEM OF EDUCATING THE HORSE.

_NEW METHOD OF HALTERING A VICIOUS OR WILD COLT._

Having directed my attention for many years to compiling a system of educating the horse, and traveling over twenty-five States of the Union, together with nearly all the cities and towns in the Provinces of Ontario and Quebec, during the past eight years, it is highly probable that few, if any, men are better prepared to impart instruction or to give direction with regard to the management of the horse than myself. Therefore, without being egotistic, or overrating my ability, I can but say that, if the reader will adopt the various ideas found in my work relating to the colt alone, he will have gained knowledge sufficient to more than repay him for the amount paid for the book.

I deem it advisable to give special directions to those who raise colts, not only as to their manner of treatment and education, but, knowing full well the difficulty sometimes attending the first haltering of wild colts, I have prepared the foregoing plate as illustrative of my method, and now proceed to give directions which, if strictly followed, will insure success.

Take a pole about ten feet long; drive a nail near the end, then drive another about fifteen inches from it; now take a rope halter, and hang the part that goes on the top of the head on these nails; then enlarge the nose-piece, by means of the slip-noose, sufficiently to allow it to slip on easily, observing to hold the halter stale in your hands with the pole; approach your colt with great care, and allow him to smell of the halter, and, in a few minutes, he will yield to your advances, and allow you to place the halter on him without much difficulty. Make the shank or stale of the halter about three times the ordinary length, for, as soon as he finds himself caught, he will use his best exertions to get away from you.

_TO EDUCATE THE HORSE TO THE WORDS “COME HERE.”_

Place a Camanche bridle on the horse, made as follows: take a small cord about sixteen feet long, tie the end around the neck firmly, so that it cannot slip; then double your cord, placing it under the neck, from, the shoulder to the mouth; step back at the side of your horse, and say “Come here;” at the same time give him a sharp jerk, and he will swing around to you; when he comes, caress him with your hand on the shoulder; now repeat the same on opposite side, remembering to caress each time; do this four or five times, and you will find that your horse will obey and fully understand the words “come here.” Always speak the words with a distinct and commanding tone of voice.

I desire that the reader may understand that obedience in the horse is accomplished by pain; so, when you inflict pain, accompanied by a word, the horse is made to understand that the words mean pain; and, rather than suffer pain, he cheerfully obeys the word.

Persons have practiced the foregoing idea and succeeded in accomplishing their purpose and have, no doubt, been highly gratified that their horse was so intelligent, yielding a quiet obedience to their efforts in a very short time; now had the owner known that a foundation for a complete education was properly laid, how easily could he have built a superstructure thereon that would have been permanent and beneficial during the life of the animal. Men are often conceited and think that because they have experienced no difficulty in the past in breaking and handling their horses, therefore all will be sunshine in the future. I would advise a careful perusal of my work, and, by so doing, those of the character above described will have their conceit supplanted as they gain the knowledge of a practical system of properly educating the horse.

_HOW TO LAY A HORSE DOWN._

Place a rope or rein around the horse’s body, forming a surcingle; pass the other end under the tail and bring it back, tying it to the part around the body, thus forming a surcingle and crooper; also put a ring, say an inch in diameter, in the surcingle on the back; then strap up the nigh fore-leg as follows: take a quarter-strap, pass it two or three times around below the fetlock, then through the keeper; bring the leg up and buckle close to the belly; place around the neck a quarter-inch strong rope, loosely, fixing the knot so it will not slip; bring the end down the near side of the head, through the mouth, and back on the off-side through the ring in the surcingle; now take a position on the nigh-side of the horse, commencing to pull gently, allowing him to struggle a short time, after which he will lie down quite easily, without sustaining any injury.

By adhering strictly to the instructions given, every person will readily see, that the object in laying the horse down is to give him to understand that you are master; and, after repeating this two or three times, he will be perfectly satisfied of the fact. While down, place a small pole between his legs, moving it about; if he shows fear or resists, give him a sharp pull on the cord in his mouth by way of correction. In other words, punish him for doing wrong, and caress him for doing right, thus making him understand the difference between right and wrong.

_HOW TO GET A HORSE UP THAT THROWS HIMSELF._

Animals are often sulky, and quickly acquire the habit of lying down. Balky horses, when urged to go, will lie down and refuse to get up, and an ox will sometimes lie down in the furrow when before the plough. When the habit is thoroughly settled, it becomes very annoying to the owner or driver, who often resorts to severe means, but fails to accomplish the end desired; therefore, to prevent violence and ill-treatment, I give the easy and simple remedy subjoined, which, when adopted, will be found to be practical and _never-failing_:

Raise the animal’s head up, as illustrated in the foregoing plate, and pour into his nostril a small quantity of water, not to exceed a pint, from a pitcher or cup, and you will be amused by the pleasing result: the animal will rise to his feet as quickly as it is possible for him to do so; he believes himself to be drowning, and will extricate himself with all speed.

Simple as is this expedient, it is yet unfailing in its efficacy; and that which most commends it to the acceptance of kind-hearted men is the absence of all cruelty in its application. No pain is caused, but the unusual sensation, together with the necessity for air on the part of the horse, banishes his former feeling of sulkiness or anger and the yields to the almost irresistible impulse to spring to his feet and free his nostrils of the water.

If any one who has never applied this remedy should doubt its power, he only needs to try the experiment in a mild way on himself, when he will realize its power upon the horse.

I believe it would be impossible to devise another method so free from pain, so harmless to the horse, and yet so thoroughly efficacious as is the one we have here given.

_TO EDUCATE A COLT NOT TO BE AFRAID OF HIS HEELS._

Too much importance cannot be attached to the manner of educating a horse’s heels, as it is in that point his greatest means of defense and resistance lies, and most men make the mistake of breaking one end of the horse, while they allow his hind parts to go uneducated. The instructions I am about to give will, if properly followed, insure success.

After laying your colt down, commence to handle his hind parts and heels, being careful to hold the cord firmly in your left hand, so that, if he attempts to get up, you can control him; then strike him gently with a stick, and, if he should show fear, which he naturally will, punish him in the mouth; then place the stick between his legs and commence moving it around, and, if he makes no resistance, remember to caress him; almost as much is accomplished by caressing as by punishing.

The above instruction is equally applicable to a kicking horse, but in his education he will require more lessons before the habit will be entirely removed; still, kindness and a little patience will soon accomplish all you desire.

Men in general exercise too little patience in the training of their colts, and they frequently expect to accomplish more in a short space of time than can possibly be performed. Yet the time really required, when measured by days, is so short as to be really surprising. Let us suppose that in training a colt one were to spend two hours a day for ten days, which is the longest time that could possibly be needed; compute the time at ten hours to the day, and the whole amounts to but two days, at the end of which he would have a well-educated animal. I doubt if a farmer or horse-raiser could employ his time more profitably in any other way than in thoroughly educating his colts, as he thus enhances their value, for there is no sensible man who would not give ten dollars more for a properly educated animal than for one improperly trained.

_TO EDUCATE A COLT TO DRIVE BEFORE BEING HARNESSED._

Place on him the Bonaparte bridle, as shown in engraving, with your cord in the left hand and whip in the right; the cord referred to should be about eighteen feet long; now drive him around a circle to the right about fifteen minutes; then drive him to the left about the same time. You have now educated your colt to drive, and may with safety put on your harness, observing to put the reins through the shaft tugs at his side; then commence driving him carefully for some fifteen minutes on a walk, turning him to the right and left as before directed. Do not use the whip more than sufficient to give him a knowledge of its use. Never drive a colt without blinders. It is better to first hitch him to a sulky or a cart, and do not put on breechings, but allow the cross-bar frequently to come against his heels, so that he may never be afraid, or learn to kick. Never forget, when your colt is obedient, to stop him, and walk up to and caress him.

I am unwilling to pass on to another illustration without more fully impressing on the minds of those who raise or break colts the necessity of kind and careful usage in educating their animals. Never approach your colt quickly. Never, pull the halter or bridle off quickly. Always handle the colt’s ears with great care. Never punish him on the body with anything but a whip, and with it as seldom as possible, as many colts become sulky and show signs of balking when severely whipped. It is better that you should give your colt two or three lessons each day, as heretofore directed, at intervals of say two hours apart: by this means you do not overtax his brain, nor cause him to get weary. In this, as in many other cases, the wisest course is to “make haste slowly.”

_HOW TO EDUCATE A COLT TO MOVE HIS BODY WHEN HE MOVES HIS HEAD._

Place on your bridle, then your harness; carry your reins through the shaft tugs; take your position behind the horse (see engraving); now commence to drive, turning him round frequently, first to the right, then to the left, and he will quickly understand to move his body when he moves his head. By this means you are educating to the shafts, and educating not to be afraid of his heels, thus thoroughly breaking your horse at both sides and both ends.

After your colt has been driven two or three times, as above described, educate him to obey the word “whoa:” let him walk along smartly, then speak plain, with audible voice, and say “whoa;” at the same time pull on the reins with some force; when he stops, caress him; repeat this a few times, and, in the short space of fifteen minutes, you will have taught him the use of the word. Now your horse is educated to drive and stop at the word of command.

The next thing in order is to teach him to back. To accomplish this, grasp your reins firmly, and with a determined effort; speak firmly, making use of the word “back,” at the same time pulling with all your might; if he obeys the first time, step up and caress him; if not, increase the power by inviting one or more of your friends to assist on the reins, being fully determined to accomplish your purpose. As soon as he obeys, don’t fail to caress him, and by this process you will educate your horse to the word, which he will never forget.

Your colt being educated, you may now hitch him up to a vehicle, observing to drive him very slow, only on a walk, and after thus driving him a few times, you can with certainty say that you have a thoroughly educated horse, whose value will be greatly increased, compared with the old or any other system of breaking the colt. _Always_ observing to drive your colt with blinders, only using the whip enough to let him know the use of it. Be kind to your animal, never using harsh means, and he will reward your kindness by implicit obedience.

_IMPROVED METHOD OF BITTING A COLT._

Use the Bonaparte bridle, placing a loop on the lower jaw; carry the cord back on the neck, bringing the end of the cord down through the loop on the jaw; then draw the horse’s head up in an easy and graceful position, and tie a bow-knot. Should the horse attempt to rear and go over backwards, give a little pull to untie the cord, and the horse is saved from any accident. The object aimed at in bitting a horse is to give an easy position, with a high and graceful carriage of the head, and, in our efforts to do this, we must be careful not to give him a dead bearing on the bit, or make him what is usually known as a “lugger.” All the bitting rings which we have examined, and especially those of English make, are objectionable, as having a tendency to produce this result. The rig which we here give you is entirely free from this objection, and is better calculated to produce the desired result of ease and gracefulness than any ever before presented to the public. Our rig, instead of bearing on the jaw-bones whenever the horse presses his weight upon the bit, producing a calloused jaw and indifference to the bit, contracts the side muscles of the cheek on the molar teeth, with a pain the horse cannot endure; he lifts his head, the bit falls on the side rein, and the mouth is at once relieved. Practice has shown that horses bitted with this rig soon acquire the habit of gently and gracefully raising the head with that occasional toss, or upward and downward motion, and playing with the bit, which is the perfection of beauty in a carriage horse, while standing in the harness.

It is not possible for a horse with our rig to become a “lugger.” This bit never bears upon the jaw-bone with more than a light pressure, and when he attempts to rest his head upon the bit, the pressure on the teeth causes him to desist and elevate his head. He soon dreads to rest upon the bit, and of his own free will, without the force of the rein, carries it up with freedom and ease.

_EDUCATING THE COLT TO RIDE_

First put on the Bonaparte bridle, make a double half-hitch, bringing it over the head, back of his ears, and, carrying it down to the mouth, place it under the upper lip, taking the end of the cord in your right hand, placing it on the horse’s rump; then place your left hand in the mane; now spring partly on and off, as seen in the plate on preceding page. Do this several times; if he moves, punish him in the mouth, by means of the cord; if he does not move, when you get off caress him; then go to the opposite side, repeating the same several times, after which you may safely mount your horse, but be particular not to remain on his back too long at a time, as the strength of the animal is not yet sufficiently developed to bear a protracted strain. Like the young of all animals, the colt has a great deal of energy and spirit, but lacks the stamina to endure long-continued exertion, nor can it be imposed on them without certain injury.

Men do not act wisely by practicing the old system of riding colts, viz., by mounting on the back with reins and whip in hand, and, so soon as the colt jumps about or rears, applying the whip or heels; for the reason that the animal _does not know_ what you require of him, but believes you design some injury, and therefore resists your efforts to ride him. No wonder that he repeatedly throws his rider and treats him as an intruder. He cannot be less terrified than a man would be if a wild animal were to mount on his back. In order to secure success in educating his colt to ride let the reader adopt the foregoing instructions, and he will not have cause for regret, but will find that he has gained more than the single point of riding, as he has taught his colt that he does not intend to harm him, and that his duty is to yield a cheerful obedience to his owner’s commands.

_INSTRUCTIONS TO RIDE THE COLT._

Take a small cord, ten to twelve feet long, divide it in the center; then place the center back of the ears, cross it in the mouth, then bring both ends along the neck to the withers, and tie a knot, thus forming a powerful bridle, sufficient to ride the most vicious animal.

Sacred history contains the declaration that there is “the bridle for the horse, the whip for the ass, and the rod for the fool’s back,” and, while writing my book, I have often thought of the first portion of that quotation. The power of the bridle in controlling the horse is really wonderful, and the new forms of powerful bridles given in this work enable the most timid rider to secure the mastery of the most powerful animal. The one described above is excellent, and can never fail to give satisfaction when it is used as directed.

There is no exercise so invigorating and scarcely any so delightful as the manly one of riding the horse, yet three-quarters of the pleasure of equestrianism depends on the early training of the horse for this delightful exercise. The rider who feels that he has beneath him an animal obedient to his slightest wish, and which responds to a touch of the heel or the lightest pressure of the bit, moving to the lifting or the falling of the bridle, such a rider feels almost as though the horse on which he sits forms a portion of himself, and courses onward with a delightful sense of power and freedom. Nearly all of this excellence in a riding-horse depends on the way in which he has been educated while young. Faults then acquired may be corrected, it is true, in later years, yet it is far more desirable that they should never have been formed, but, in place thereof, the qualities secured which form the excellence of a horse.

I throw out these suggestions at this point, for I am now dealing with the early education of the colt; later in the book I shall have to speak more of faults to be corrected, and it is my wish to impress on my reader the great importance of the kind of education which the colt receives at his hands.

_TO HALTER-BREAK A COLT, AND HITCH IN THE STABLE._

Place the center of a sixteen-foot cord under the horse’s tail, and bring it over and cross it on the back; then tie it firmly in front of the breast (as seen by reference to illustration on preceding page); carry the halter-strap through the manger, and bring it back under the mouth; then tie the end of the strap to the cord in front of the breast. The colt is now tied by the head and tail. While he yields quietly to the confinement, he is comfortable and easy, but the moment he begins to resist he punishes himself; this he soon learns, and in a little time ceases the efforts which he finds to be productive of pain. He will always remember the lesson, and give no further trouble.

It may seem a trifling thing to have gained the result described above; yet, as the earth is made up of grains of sand, so the thorough education of the horse is the result of attention to a multitude of small affairs, each one seeming to be of little importance in itself, but which, in their total, make the difference between a gentle and an unruly animal.

Too much care and attention cannot be bestowed on the colt while you are giving him lesson after lesson, as he is susceptible of impressions that will take weeks to overcome, provided you should through neglect or carelessness omit to practice the instructions laid down. Do not suppose that any of the directions given in this book are unimportant. They are, one and all, the result of long experience in the management and education of the horse, and each one, in its place and relation to the general system, is as necessary, though perhaps not as important, as any other. To be certain of reaching the best results of the system, the reader must not pass over any of our directions as unimportant or unnecessary, but accept each as a part of the system which it has required years of time and thought to bring to its present state of perfection.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK AT YOU WHEN ENTERING THE STALL._

Place on the horse the Bonaparte bridle; then drive a staple at the side of the stall, near the manger, three or four feet from the floor; then attach another staple at the entrance of the stall, the same distance from the floor; now pass the cord through both staples and tie it. When you enter the stall, pull sharply on the rope; at the same time use the words “go over.” The head of the horse will be drawn towards you, and his heels to the opposite side. Thus you avoid all danger, and will very soon educate your horse to abandon this bad habit.

Vicious and annoying habits in horses often owe their origin to bad management by their owner or groom. Allow me to instance a few examples: A man walks into the stable and approaches his horse in the stall, and, if he should move about quickly, the person springs back from him, evidently showing his fear, which is at once noticed by the horse, and taken advantage of; so that, after a repetition of this two or three times, the animal fancies he is master, and uses his heels to help the intruder out of the stall. Another custom prevails: that of striking a horse on the rump or hinder parts, with a whip or stick in order to make him stand over, and the effect is to irritate and cause him to kick. Now, in order to insure success, walk up to your animal manfully and determinately, observing never to show fear, and by this means you will never teach your horse to kick at you.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE THAT KICKS OR PAWS IN THE STALL._

First make the Bonaparte bridle, as before directed; carry the cord through a surcingle, attached around the body, back to a ring in front of the hind-leg, to which are attached two straps, one above and one below the gambol joint of the leg he has the habit of kicking with; thus, when he kicks, he is punished in the act, and soon gives up the habit. _Pawing_—Continue the cord forward to a ring attached to two small straps above and below the knee-joint, as seen on engraving, observing, as above directed, to attach the appliance to the leg he paws with, reversing the straps when required, which will give a horse the knowledge that when he paws he punishes himself, and the reader will see, by this treatment, the habit speedily broken up.

The habit of kicking in the stall is one that is not only disagreeable to the owner of the horse addicted to it, but is often destructive and costly, as a horse viciously inclined to that habit will sometimes even splinter the boards of the stall, and with so simple and effective a method of correcting the bad habit it should never be tolerated for a single day, and the possessor of this book would be inexcusable should he suffer it to continue in an animal owned by him.

The habit of pawing in the stall, though not so vicious in its nature as that of kicking, is yet sufficiently troublesome and unpleasant to deserve a speedy correction, and the owner of a horse addicted to even the last-named fault will be more than compensated for the slight trouble caused in its removal.

It may seem needless to repeat what has before been said, in substance, that the seemingly small faults of a horse are the ones which most frequently lessen his value and impair his usefulness, and that the removal of any one, however trifling, adds a money value to the horse more than sufficient to compensate for the time and trouble expended.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO GET CAST IN THE STALL._

Drive a staple in the ceiling over the manger at the side of the stall, then another in the ceiling in the center of the stall over the horse’s head; pass a small cord through the staple at the side of the stall; tie a horseshoe, or the weight of a horseshoe, so that the cord will not draw through the staple; then put the cord through the staple in the center of the stall, bring it down within two and a half feet of the floor, and cut it off, attaching a snap to the end; place a ring in the halter at the top of the head, in the center, as seen in engraving. Now, when his head raises up, the weight comes down; when his mouth is on the floor he can lie down with ease, but he cannot get the top of his head to the floor; and, if he cannot get the top of his head to the floor, he cannot roll; and, if he cannot roll, he cannot get cast. This remedy is as simple as it is certain, and is always perfectly safe.

The habit of rolling in the stable is one often attended with fatal results, in addition to the anxiety experienced by the owner of the horse. Various means are resorted to in order to prevent the animal getting cast, and most of them are wide of the mark; and, in order to acquaint the reader with the variety of ways practiced, so that he may contrast the difference between others and mine, I have thought proper to write more explicitly on the subject.

A favorite idea with many is to tie the halter so short that the animal cannot get his mouth near the floor; this renders the horse uncomfortable, as he cannot lie down when he desires. Another is, hitching the halter-stale at the ceiling directly over the head of the animal, and allowing cord enough that he may get his mouth on the floor; this, too, is attended with bad results, for when he raises his head up there is sufficient slack in the rope so as to permit his getting his foot over the rope and become so entangled as to render his position dangerous.

_TO EDUCATE A COLT TO LEAD BEHIND A WAGON._

First put on the colt a common halter without a leader, then place a small cord about eighteen feet long, divided in the center, under the tail, cross it on the back, then bring the ends through between the under-jaw of the horse and the nose-piece of the halter, and tie it to the hind end of the wagon. This idea will be satisfactory, and your colt will soon be educated to lead without trouble to his owner. The expedient is a very simple one, yet will invariably prove successful, because the colt will find his own comfort to be promoted by doing as you wish; and this is one of the principles which underlie my whole system of training—to make the horse desire to do that which his owner wishes.

Under this head I am satisfied that I cannot be too particular in giving instructions, as persons often grow merry when witnessing the results produced from ideas that are so different from their old and accustomed ones, practiced for leading colts. After you have hitched your colt in the manner described, do not start off immediately, but let him remain as quiet as possible for a few minutes, then start the wagon slowly, and, if your colt attempts to rear or plunge about, stop your vehicle, get out and walk up quietly to your colt and caress him, and when you start him again, if possible, walk along by his side for a short time, then stop him again, and again caress. His attention will not be attracted by objects on the road, but very soon he will understand that his chief business is to walk on quietly away from the punishment inflicted from the cord under his tail.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE THAT IS BAD TO CATCH._

Horses acquire this habit mainly from improperly turning them out; and, to illustrate, I will give the reader an example. First, the man or boy takes his horse to the bars or fence of the field, and lets only a portion of either down; he now takes off the bridle or halter, and, in order to make the horse jump over, hits him on the rump and shouts at him; thus the animal is made to fear the approach of man when loose; so that, with this kind of training, it soon becomes difficult to catch, and requires education in order to counteract this bad habit.

Directions: Put on the Bonaparte bridle, and tie a knot at the mouth, so as to prevent it from slipping down to his teeth, when he might sever the cord; then carry it up to his mane over the shoulder; tie the mane together with a string; then pass the cord through the loop thus made with the mane, and carry the cord through a loop made in the tail by same means, and let your cord lay out behind from ten to fifty feet, as required. Now, when you want your horse, go carefully up behind him and take a firm hold of the cord, and say “Come here,” at the same time pulling with all your might. By giving him three or four lessons of this kind, you may safely take off the cord and go into the field, standing about the same distance as when you last pulled or the cord, and repeat the words “come here;” he will quickly obey your voice, and give you no more trouble in catching him.

When it is remembered how much time is often lost in catching a horse in the field, it will be seen that, in money value, this simple point of horse education will more than repay the cost of this book to the owner of a horse that has heretofore been bad to catch; and the saving of temper as well as time will make the improvement in his habits doubly valuable. Both the man and the horse are made better by it.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO REAR UNDER THE SADDLE OR BEFORE A CARRIAGE._

Attach a small cord tightly around the swell of the body, tied with a loop-knot, and carry it back into the carriage. By doing this you prevent your horse from rearing, inasmuch as he is unable to expand his body, and, without doing so, it is impossible for him to rear. Simple as is this method, the reader, if he should have occasion to practice it, will find the idea of great value, as it will never fail to prove effectual in removing this, to say the least, unpleasant and often dangerous habit. It is possible that the habit might be broken up in other ways, but there are none so harmless and easy of application as is the one I have described.

My readers will, I doubt not, receive with kindly feelings not only the instructions on the important points of educating their horses to break off bad habits, but will profit by the ideas and examples given of the various means adopted by horse-handlers to create these habits. In the present instance, it is rarely, if ever, known that horses acquire the habit of rearing themselves, but are prompted so to do by the means used, viz., starting and stopping suddenly; pulling sharply on the reins, and then striking the animal with the whip, either of which is a sure and certain means of producing this result—that of causing the horse to rear up whenever you desire to move off.

The inconvenience and unpleasantness of such a habit are too plain to need more than a mention, besides its often occasioning great alarm to a timid driver; and the simple yet practical means I have given for breaking up the habit, will be found successful whenever it is tried, as it always should be where the habit exists.

_TO EDUCATE AND PREVENT A HORSE FROM CRIBBING._

Build a manger on the floor or from the floor up. In many cases this will prevent a horse from cribbing by getting his mouth below his chest.

Another method, _sure to be effective_, is to place a piece of sheep-skin of long wool, eight inches wide and about three feet long, or long enough to reach from one side of the stall to the other, and on the skin sprinkle cayenne pepper; take soft soap and rub it on any part of the stall where the horse will be likely to crib. If the above instructions are strictly adhered to, and the horse is fed regularly, three times a day, there will be little danger of his ever becoming a cribber. The slight trouble which this remedy involves will be repaid a hundred-fold by the satisfaction felt in the prevention or cure of a most disagreeable habit, and one which, like every other fault, lessens the value of a horse. In using the cayenne pepper, a small quantity will be sufficient.

There are more bad results accruing from cribbing than many are aware of. From cribbing the horse may become a crib-sucker, which often results in colic, or, as it is sometimes termed, belly-ache. When this occurs of course it becomes a dangerous habit, and no one should think it too much trouble to adopt the instructions given under this head. Do not think you can eradicate this habit by nailing tin or iron over the manger; you cannot remove it thus; your horse may desist for the time being, but when put into a stall that is not thus arranged, he will relapse into his old habit; but by adopting the remedy I have provided he will be thoroughly taught not to attempt to bite or gnaw the manger.

There is a wide difference between preventing a horse from doing what he still wishes to do, and taking from him the disposition to do wrong; the latter alone can properly be called education, and is the only way in which a bad habit can be permanently removed. On this principle I base my whole system; it is education, by appealing to the intelligence of the horse.

_TO EDUCATE AND BREAK A HALTER-PULLER._

Place on the horse a common halter, without tie-strap; then take a small cord, about 16 to 18 feet long; divide it on the center, place it under the tail and cross it on the back; bring the ends each side of the neck, then place the ends through the halter under the mouth; tie round a post or tree. Then tie a strap from the mouth to the post or tree one foot shorter than the rope, after making it taut from the tail; then cut the strap half off, after which, frighten your horse by rolling a barrel in front of him; now he will fly back, breaking the strap, and he will be caught under the tail, which is a severe punishment that will, by repeating it two or three times, educate him not to pull at the halter again.

The practical nature of the idea embraced in the foregoing directions will be seen at a glance, for the following reason: the horse has from time to time been guilty of pulling on his halter and breaking it, much to the displeasure of the owner, but probably much to the gratification of the horse, who, perhaps, has come to take a sort of pleasure in the act; now he is made to repeat the same thing, unconscious of the result that will follow, when immediately on carrying out his old habit he receives a severe punishment inflicted by the very act. The horse is, no doubt, surprised, but he quickly learns to connect the act and the suffering in his mind, and so soon as he does that the habit is cured forever. This I claim as a great excellence in my system, that its results are all permanent; the cure is not for a day only, but for all time; the very disposition to do wrong is wiped out of the animal’s brain.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHEN THE LINE GETS UNDER HIS TAIL._

Horses become kickers from various causes, and one most effectual in producing the habit, is that when a horse gets the rein under his tail, his driver, getting provoked, pulls strongly on the rein in order to liberate it, and by this means burns the skin beneath the tail, when the horse becomes excited and commences to kick. The driver then usually begins to whip, and oftentimes the horse continues to kick, until he breaks everything within reach of his heels, and runs away. Now the owner has a confirmed kicker, and frequently knows not what to do to correct the fault he has himself established. The instructions below, if properly applied, will effect a cure.

When your horse is down, as seen in the engraving, place a strap under his tail and commence moving it up and down; should he kick, or show signs of resistance, at once punish him; if not, caress him, and in a short time his tail will become limber and he will be taught to not be afraid, though, in driving, the rein should get under his tail. Also, after you allow him to rise to his feet, use the same means as just directed when he was lying down.

In my book I have endeavored to grapple with almost every bad habit that the horse is addicted to, and would here advise all persons who handle them to be extremely careful that if their animals acquire unpleasant habits, they are not mostly to be blamed themselves. Horses differ materially in their ability to learn, and many are less susceptible of impressions than others, therefore, it behooves the educator to first make himself acquainted with the disposition of his horse, and treat him accordingly, as the same line of management will not serve for all, but an observance of one important direction, that of _always_ using the utmost kindness, will, in most cases, prevent and remove all habits but those of long standing.

_ANOTHER METHOD OF EDUCATING A HORSE NOT TO KICK._

I design to make this chapter as plain as possible, so that no man need fail to break up this worst of habits, and in order so to do, I will commence at the beginning. With the previously-described rig, lay the horse down, and commence to handle him. Take a stick or a piece of board and ply it on his hinder parts, then thrust it between his legs. Should he kick, punish in the mouth with Camanche bridle, but if he offers no resistance, caress. When you have secured submission allow your horse to rise to his feet, then put on him a head-stall and lines and commence driving him on the walk; every three or four rods pull sharply on the reins and at the same instant say “Whoa,” walk up and caress; start him off again, and repeat the “Whoa,” say ten times, by that time you have so educated him to the word that he will scarcely forget it for years. Take your stick and ply it on his hind parts again; if he resists, jerk suddenly on the reins and say “Whoa.” Ply the stick until all fear is removed. You can now safely hitch your animal to a cart, as seen in engraving, using no breeching. Drive him a short time, simultaneously pull on the reins and say “Whoa,” at the same time allowing the cart to come against his heels. Push the cart sharply against him, saying “Whoa,” each time, speaking with considerable force, that he may understand you design to conquer. Don’t forget to caress when the horse obeys. Should he kick the cart and try to rid himself of it, pull with your might quickly on the reins and repeat the word “whoa” again; so soon as he shall desist take him from the cart and lay him down again as soon as possible, and, if need be, summon one of your neighbors to assist you, to prevent being foiled, for be assured, if you allow him to conquer once you have lost much and really accomplished nothing. Give the animal another _strong_ lesson while down, afterwards repeat it when on his feet, when by this time you will have taken the conceit completely out of him. In all your attempts to handle a vicious horse be resolute and determined and you will soon give him to understand that you are master, and that his duty is to yield a cheerful obedience to your command.

I would enjoin upon the reader to practice the same method when educating colts, but not so severely, because by so doing you may make them stubborn; great patience must be exercised while handling colts, as the faults of one misplaced lesson will be visible. Therefore one cannot be too careful, particularly if the animal is nervous and excitable.

_TO CURE CORNS._

Cut the horn well down, but not to the quick, fit the shoe so that it will not press upon the part, then saturate well with pine sap or gum, which is found exuding from pine trees when cut. Fill the part in nicely with tow, and put on the shoe, which must be so fitted as not to oblige the part to support, but very slightly, if any, the weight of the horse. Horses with corns must be oftener and more carefully shod than those free from them.

_TO HARDEN A TENDER-MOUTHED HORSE._

Place the bits in the animal’s mouth as low as possible, not to have them drop out, and drive him from two to three weeks with the bits in this way, and when they are buckled up in proper place he is hard-mouthed.

_TO EDUCATE THE HORSE BAD TO GROOM._

After making the Bonaparte bridle, put it on the horse, standing at his side with the end of the cord in your hand, with the other hand use the curry-comb or brush and commence to groom him. If he should resist your efforts by attempting to kick or bite you, reprove him by pulling quickly on the cord, at the same time using the words “stand still.” Afterwards if he remains quiet, caress him; if the punishment should not prove effectual make the double half-hitch under the upper lip, as seen in engraving.

_HUGGING THE POLE._

This is a great annoyance to the other horse, and he will probably learn to do the same thing, not from imitation, but from leaning inwards, so as to enable him to stand against the other horse, leaning upon him. This habit may be broken up by securing a piece of sole leather to the pole upon the side where the animal leans, having a number of tacks driven through it in such a manner as to protrude from the leather towards the horse.

_LUGGERS ON THE BIT._

Buckle a pair of straps, about twelve inches long, with a ring at one end, and a buckle at the other, to the check-piece, and let the straps pass through the rings on either side of the bit; buckle the lines to the rings on these straps, instead of the rings on the bit; this forms a gag similar to the French twitch-gag, and is a powerful means of controlling the mouth of a hard-pulling horse.

_BITS USED IN EDUCATING HORSES ADDICTED TO BAD HABITS._

NO. 1. TO PREVENT A HORSE GETTING HIS TONGUE OVER THE BIT.—Take a piece of leather, say three inches long, an inch and a half wide, and drill two holes in a straight bit; now rivet this leather on the top of the bit, after which sprinkle on the upper side some pulverized rosin, and take a hot iron and pass over it so as to form a coating. Allow your horse to wear this bit say six or eight days when driving, and he will by that time be sufficiently taught to abandon the habit.

NO. 2. LOLLING THE TONGUE.—Take an ordinary straight bit of five-eighths of an inch in diameter and drill two holes, each one three-quarters of an inch from the center; then get a piece of very small chain, attach iron bullets, about the size of ordinary leaden bullets used in guns, suspend them not more than one and a half inches from the bit. Now use the bit, every time you drive your horse, for ten days.

NO. 3. CURE A HORSE OF SUCKING WIND.—A horse that has acquired the habit of sucking wind is truly to be detested, as it is oftentimes attended with fatal results, and when once thoroughly settled, great difficulty has been experienced in removing the habit. The method I have introduced of treating this habit has proved successful in most cases.

Take a piece of small gas-pipe, say from five-eighths to three-quarters of an inch in diameter, the ordinary length of a bit, heat it and circle it a little, then drill on the upper side equal distances apart from each end, as seen in engraving; also drill three holes on the under side, making each hole between an eighth and a quarter of an inch in diameter, and attach a ring near each end and allow your horse to wear this when driving, say for at least from ten to twenty days or until the habit is removed.

NO. 4. TO CURE A SIDE-REINER, ONE THAT PULLS HEAVILY ON ONE REIN.—Take a plain, jointed bit, remove one-half of the part used in the mouth and supply a small chain from the side ring to the center joint, now on the side that the animal pulls place the chain; he is not only attracted by the strange sensation in the mouth, but when pulled on the chain side receives such severe and unexpected punishment that he will quickly give up his habit.

NO. 5. DEAD-MOUTH OR JAW BIT.—This bit may be used on horses that pull very much on the reins, and a lady may with safety drive a horse, as she can control him quite easily.

The attachment to this bit is made as follows: Take two pieces of leather about three inches in diameter, make a hole in the center of each to admit of the bit, cut the leather so as to put pieces on after, sew up slit, attach two billets on under side with buckle, then buckle on under jaw. This bit may be used without a head-stall.

_TO EDUCATE HORSES NOT TO BE AFRAID OF OBJECTS WHEN DRIVING._

It is impossible to overestimate the value of the subjoined instructions respecting nervous and shying horses, therefore on this topic I wish to be particularly clear and explicit. Let the reader understand that horses take fright at objects because they fancy those objects will harm them, and if you can by any means appeal to the horse’s brain, and satisfy him that he is not going to be hurt, you have accomplished your object, and in order to do so, you must have control of your horse. I do not mean by this that you are to adopt the too frequent course pursued by many, viz., subduing with the whip, or other harsh means, which will, without almost an exception, increase the fear instead of removing the habit; again, when a horse shies, the driver commences to jerk on the rein nearest to the object, and at once applies the whip, fully determined to master his horse; both man and horse get excited, and the horse comes off victorious, because he cannot control him by the means used, and the result is that the next time the animal is frightened it bears a two-fold character, the fear of the object, and the fear of the whip-punishment.

In order to properly educate your horses in this department, I would specially direct the reader to observe and practice the following directions: Select, first, the most prominent objects at which he becomes frightened, then make the Bonaparte bridle of small cord, and place it on your horse under the bridle, carrying the end of the cord into the carriage, and when approaching an object at which he takes fright, get out of your carriage, stand nearly in front of him, give a quick downward pull, and say, “Come here!” At first do not punish him too severely; but if he will not obey, increase the punishment, and so soon as he complies, caress him. Bring him quite near the object, and, if possible, let him smell of it, as by adopting this method he will quickly understand that the object will not hurt him. Now turn him around, and drive him past the object two or three times, and you have accomplished your end.

_FIRST LESSON TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO FEAR AN UMBRELLA._

Place on the animal the throwing rig and proceed to lay him down, when, should he jump around and show resistance, do not get anxious to throw him quickly, but let him caper about, he will soon give up. After he is down present the umbrella to him folded up, allow him to smell of it, then rub it gently across his nose and head, now open it partly, again let him smell of it, shut it and open it several times until he becomes perfectly reconciled to the appearance, open or shut; work slowly and carefully so as not to excite him more than possible to avoid.

In another part of my book I have illustrated the education of the animal to the umbrella when on his feet, and will not go further on this point than to use the old familiar word, _caress_.

On no account should the operator, when practicing any idea in my system, forget that success greatly depends upon caressing when the animal obeys.

_HORSE BAD TO BRIDLE._

Horses become unwilling to be bridled from various causes, sometimes from sores on the head or ears, sometimes from hurriedly and improperly removing the bridle, and sometimes from sheer ugliness of disposition, prompted by a desire to be master. The treatment in these cases should be varied. In the latter case named it will be necessary to lay the animal down, and while thus under control, handle his head and ears, after which put your bridle on and off several times, exercising patience and being careful to avoid anything like roughness. Should he resist, punish him in the mouth, using your best judgment to avoid severity, and so soon as he submits caress. As to the former, where a dislike to be bridled arises from abuses, kindness must govern the conduct of the educator. By using my Bonaparte bridle you will be able to control and counteract all predisposition to resist your efforts in a very short time. Should there be sores about the animal’s head, you had better restore to soundness before you attempt to educate to comply with your wishes.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO FEAR AN UMBRELLA._

On page 261 may be found the first lesson to educate a horse that fears an umbrella. I now proceed to explain the idea illustrated by the foregoing cut.

Place on the animal the Bonaparte half-hitch bridle—found on page 306. First present to him the umbrella closed; allow him to smell of it, then rub it gently across his nose and body, observing not to move quickly. Should he resist your efforts, jerk on the bridle and say “Whoa!” Make another attempt, and should he remain quiet, caress him. Now partly open it, placing it over his head, observing to avoid touching his head or ears with the umbrella—while doing so, caress; and you will be satisfied punishment in the mouth and caressing will accomplish all that you may desire.

_TREATMENT OF WOUNDS._

Wounds are caused by accidents of various kinds, when the skin is much torn from the flesh. If you are at hand while the wound is quite fresh, take a square-pointed needle, and a waxed thread, and sew it up. Be sure to put the needle in straight, one side over against the other, draw the skin tight, tie a knot, and cut off the thread; then take another stitch about an inch off, till it is all nicely drawn together. It is quite wrong to sew up a wound as you would a piece of cloth; the thread should be cut after each stitch. When you do not see the wound till the place is growing dead, and the skin is drawing up, then take off the loose skin; for if you permit it to remain, it will leave a blemish.

_ENGLISH STABLE LINIMENT._

Oil of spikes, aqua ammonia, and oil of turpentine, of each 2 oz.; sweet oil and oil of amber, of each ½ oz.; oil of origanum, 1 oz. Mix.

_TO EDUCATE A SINGLE-FOOTED HORSE TO TROT SQUARE._

Upon the hind leg of the horse that hitches or single-foots, place two hame-straps, one above and one below the gambol-joint, attaching a ring on front, by which means the straps are confined; then place a small strap on the opposite front leg just below the knee-joint, now buckle on a strap from fore-leg to hind-leg, passing it up under the surcingle (as seen in engraving). Now proceed to drive your horse, and you will at once discover that he cannot single-foot, but must trot. By paying particular attention to the instructions given, the pleasing result will follow and your horse will be taught to abandon the habit. The reader must be careful not to trot his horse fast up hill nor allow him to draw too much weight while trotting.

_RING-BONE REMEDY._

Pulverized cantharides, oils of spike, origanum, amber, cedar, British, and Barbadoes tar, of each 2 oz.; oil of wormwood, 1 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 4 oz.; lard, 3 lbs. Melt the lard slowly, and add the other ingredients, stirring well till cool; clip off the hair, and apply by rubbing in and heating. In about three days, or when done running, wash off with suds and apply again. In recent cases, two or three applications will cure; old cases require more time.

_AN EXCELLENT LINIMENT FOR SPAVIN, SPLINT CURBS, ETC._

Oils of spike, origanum, cedar, British, and spirits of turpentine, of each 1 oz.; pulverized Spanish flies, ½ oz. Apply once in six or nine days.

_TO EDUCATE A PACING HORSE TO TROT._

Take four hame-straps, attach two on each hind-leg, one above and one below the gambol-joint, confining the straps on the front of the leg by means of a small ring. Then place two hame-straps on the front legs just below the knee-joint; buckle a strap from each fore-leg, carrying them up under the surcingle, and attach them to the rings in front of hind-legs, crossing strap from off fore-leg to nigh hind-leg, and from nigh fore-leg to off hind-leg; now commence to drive your horse, walking him very slow, as the new action of the legs may cause him to stumble; but after a few minutes you may increase his speed, and you will be delighted to see your horse trotting at a rate that will astonish you.

_POLL-EVIL AND FISTULA._

Common potash, ¼ oz.; extract of belladonna, 12 drams; gum Arabic, ¼ oz. Dissolve the gum in as little water as possible; then, having pulverized the potash, unless it is moist, mix the gum water with it, and it will soon dissolve; add the belladonna; mix, and it is ready to use.

The best method for getting this into the pipes, is by means of a small syringe, after having cleansed the sore well with suds. Repeat once in two days, until the callous pipes, and hard, fibrous base around the poll-evil or fistula are completely destroyed.

_NERVE AND BONE LINIMENT._

Take beef’s gall, 1 quart; alcohol, 1 pint; volatile liniment, 12 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 1 lb.; oil of origanum, 4 oz.; aqua ammonia, ½ pint; oil of amber, 3 oz.; tincture of cantharides, 6 oz. Mix.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO TROT._

The appliance required to form the trotting rig is arranged as follows:

Take four hame-straps, attach two on each hind-leg, one above and one below the gambol-joint, confining the straps on the front part of the leg, by means of a small ring. Then take a standing martingale and attach a small pulley on the lower end of the martingale; then take a small, strong cord, tying one end in the ring on one hind-leg, passing the other end through the pulley, bringing it back to the other hind-leg and tie it in the ring; adjust the rope in accordance with the stride of your horse, observing to drive him very slow for a time until he shall become accustomed to the rig.

This idea with alterations as hereinafter set forth may be successfully applied to horses while being used by the husbandman in ploughing, that are addicted to the habit of kicking. I have already given the reader a number of ideas on this point that, if used in accordance with instructions, will not fail to give satisfaction.

Put on the horse the trotting-rig, as seen in engraving, with the exception of the standing martingale attached from the pulley to the bit-ring of the bridle; then through the eye of the pulley insert a small cord, say twelve feet long, carry both ends up between the fore-legs, pass one end through the bit-ring on the off-side up over the head, and down on the nigh-side of the head to the bit-ring, and then tie it. Now take the other end of the cord and carry it up on the nigh-side through the bit-ring and pass it over the head down to the bit-ring on the off-side and there tie it. By thus manipulating your cord you will perceive that you have a system of severely punishing the horse when he shall kick.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHILE IN SHAFTS._

Horses are quite often educated to kick in harness as well as out and almost numberless accidents have been caused by this vicious and bad habit. Men are found reckless enough to tantalize their horse with a whip and sometimes punch him with a stick, regardless of consequences. The result, in most cases, is that the animal becomes a kicker, and the habit when once formed is not easily eradicated by resorting to the old stereotyped method of placing a strap over the horse’s rump and buckling to the shafts on each side. This treatment may in time effect the purpose, but it will require months to do so. Laying _all others_ aside, I with confidence say to the reader, if he will but practice the subjoined idea he will find it not only practical but effectual, because the punishment is so severe that a few lessons will convince the horse that it will be greatly to his advantage to abandon the habit.

Take a cord twenty feet long, divide it in the center, place it back of the ears, bring it down and cross it in the mouth, then bring it up between the eyes, placing a ring or loop there; now bring it back through a ring attached to the head-stall between the ears, then bring both ends of your cord under the saddle of the harness and along the back, to a ring slipped over the crupper against the hip-strap; bring the cords through the ring down to the shaft on each side of the horse, observing to leave just slack enough so that your horse may not be too much confined. The cord used may be quite small, so that it is strong.

Now when your horse makes an attempt to kick he will find a severe punishment immediately meted out to him, and thus, finding his attempt fruitless as well as painful, he will be made to understand that while obedience is rewarded, punishment quickly follows each act of disobedience. This simple yet effective expedient makes the horse punish himself for his own misdeeds, and by making the act of kicking the cause of his suffering disinclines him to attempt it, for neither horse nor man will voluntarily provoke certain pain.

_DIURETIC DROPS._

These drops are reliable in cases of stoppage of water, foul water, or inflammation of the kidneys. Take sweet spirits of nitre, 4 oz.; balsam copaiba, 2 oz.; oil of juniper, 2 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 2 oz.; gum camphor, pulv., 1 oz. Mix all together, and shake well; bottle; and it is fit for use, for man or beast, under all circumstances where a diuretic is required.

Dose for horse, 1 oz. in half a pint of milk, once in six hours.

Dose for man, 1 teaspoonful, in a tablespoonful of milk, once in six hours.

Be sure to shake the mixture up well before pouring out for use.

_TO EDUCATE A LAZY HORSE, AND INFUSE LIFE INTO HIM._

I have already given many ideas referring to balky horses, and as the old, tried remark is verily true, that “in the midst of council there is safety,” so with a multitude of ideas there is certain success. I will add one more to the catalogue.

Something that especially attracts the attention of a horse accustomed to balk often causes him to forget for the moment his offensive habit and start off, much to the surprise of his driver. By adopting the idea illustrated in the engraving and the explanation connected therewith, the reader will have no difficulty, in ordinary cases, with this peculiar _tormentor_, in accomplishing his purpose.

By many this may be considered a kind of jockey trick; but the reader will find the information valuable if he has a lazy horse or one that does not drive up well on the bit, as by following the directions given below he will be prepared to show as much style as any man in his county.

_Directions._—Take a small chain, about three feet long, and attach to it a strap or limber stick about the same length; with this in hand walk into the stable and commence plying on him a few smart blows, with this educator, above the gambol-joint, repeating it once a day for three or four days; when you hit him of course the chain rattles and makes, to him, a peculiar noise. Now, after you harness him up, put the chain in your carriage, then take your place behind him and commence driving, and when you want to show style, just kick the chain about a little with your boot and you will be surprised at the spirit and zeal manifested by your horse.

_AN EASY METHOD OF STARTING A BALKY HORSE WHO STOPS ON THE ROAD._

Among the various bad habits which horses acquire there are none which more severely try the patience of man than does the habit of balking. Frequently a horse is quiet, kind, and a good roadster, but has this habit of occasionally stopping in the road. At such times the almost universal practice is to whip the horse, and sometimes most brutally, or the more sickening custom of procuring a bundle of straw or some shavings and setting them on fire under the body of the horse. Such kinds of treatment I utterly discard, and the reader will find, in another part of my book, that I give several methods which will prove effectual in eradicating this habit, only meting out sufficient punishment to secure obedience.

Below I give an excellent method of starting a balky horse, and one which will prove effectual, though it will not educate the horse to abandon the habit. When your horse balks get out of your carriage, walk up to him and commence kicking him with the toe of your boot under the fetlock joint, first one then the other, using the word “shoo!” loud and quick every time you kick. Then take your seat in the carriage and use the word as before directed, when your horse will start at once. This process diverts his attention and causes him to move on.

_TO EDUCATE A BALKY HORSE TO DRAW IN DOUBLE HARNESS._

Persons have resorted to many things in order to make a balky horse draw, and, after laboring for months, have seen all their efforts fail and are often disappointed by finding their animal worse instead of better. Let me assure the reader that however other methods may have failed, if he will but follow the subjoined instructions he will certainly accomplish the end desired.

_Instructions._—Take a small strong rope, about a quarter of an inch in diameter and sixteen feet long, double the rope and place it under the balky horse’s tail; carry the ends up through a ring attached to the crupper or hip-straps, then pass them through the terret-ring on the saddle of the harness, and bring the ends to the true horse’s hame-ring; then tie firmly, exercising judgment about the slack to be given to the cord; then commence to draw slowly and your balky horse will soon learn that he has got to move with his mate.

_OINTMENT FOR ALL BRUISES, SCRATCHES, HEEL GREASE, SADDLE GALLS, ETC._

Take 3 oz. white lead, 3 oz. lard, 1 oz. burnt alum, and 5 grains calomel. If the sore is of long standing, use 10 grains of calomel.

_HOOF LINIMENT, FOR CONTRACTED HOOF._

Venice turpentine, ½ pint; aqua ammonia, 2 oz.; salts of nitre, 1 oz.; benzine, 1 oz.; alcohol, 3 oz. Apply to edge of the hair and to the hoof, twice a day for the first three days; once a day for the next three days; after that, once in two, three, or four days, as the case may require.

_REMEDY FOR BOTTS._

Take oil of turpentine, 8 oz.; alcohol, 1 quart. Mix and bottle for use. Dose, 4 to 5 oz. in the horse’s feed, once a day for 8 days, will effectually remove every vestige of botts.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHILE BEING SHOD._

The reader has heretofore been instructed how to lay the horse down and thus get him under his control; but as horses possess a variety of bad habits, it becomes necessary that I should treat each one separately, and carefully explain, so that none can misapprehend.

Many horses rigidly resist the efforts of the blacksmith when undertaking to shoe his hind-feet, but the following ideas will enable you to thoroughly educate him to stand quiet.

Place a strap or cord between the hoof and fetlock joint; then stand in front of the horse and commence to pull the foot forward; if he shows resistance punish him in the mouth; continue to pull and punish until he will allow you to thus handle the leg, and, so soon as he remains quiet, step up and caress him; then stand behind him and pull his leg backwards several times until you have removed all stubbornness or fear; when you have accomplished this let him get up, after which repeat the same thing, not forgetting to caress immediately when he submits to your treatment.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE, WHILE STANDING, THAT IS BAD TO SHOE._

The treatment for educating the horse after being laid down, which has been given, is to show him that your power is superior to his; the method now to be given will show him that you have the same power over him when standing as when he is down.

Place on him the Bonaparte bridle, as shown in the engraving, and take a half-hitch, placing it back of the ears and down under the upper lip, as shown in the engraving. Place a man at the side of his head to punish him with this bridle when he does wrong, remembering, as soon as the animal does right, to caress him.

Take a single rein, or a rope, about fifteen feet long, placing it on the hind-foot below the fetlock joint with loops; then stand behind the horse and lift his foot; if he shows resistance or kicks, punish him in the mouth; continue doing this till he will allow you to handle his feet. If one lesson will not answer give him two, and, if necessary, give him three, or four, as he has got to submit to this treatment.

_TO PREVENT HORSES BEING TEASED BY FLIES._

Take one-half pound of walnut or butternut leaves, and pour upon them three quarts of cold water; let it infuse one night, and pour the whole next morning into a kettle, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour. When cold it is fit for use.

No more is required than to moisten a sponge, and before the horse goes out of the stable, let those parts most likely to be irritated be well smeared over with the liquor, between and upon the ears, neck, flank, etc.

_DOUBLE-HITCH BONAPARTE BRIDLE._

This bridle may be used with great success, for many purposes in educating horses possessed of vicious or bad habits, and in order that the reader may not make a mistake I will explain it.

First. Make a small loop with one end of the cord and place it on the under jaw, then carry the cord on the off-side of the head over back of the ears, and bring it down through the loop on the nigh-side, you have now the Bonaparte bridle, afterwards pass the cord through your right hand, then with your left take hold of the cord and place it over the top of the head, and bring the cord down with your left hand under the upper lip.

The great advantage of this bridle is the complete control of the horse which it gives to the one using it. After the animal has learned its power all thought of resisting leaves him and he submits to the will of his owner. Harsh as it may seem to one who does not understand the principle on which it is used, I do not hesitate to say that it is the most merciful device which could be originated, a hundred times more so than the brutal method of whipping a horse to make him obey. In all the horses I have handled I have never twice drawn blood, and the only occasion when I did so was by the drawing of a cord too rapidly as a man might have a rope drawn through his hand. Yet by the use of this bridle I have controlled and educated the most vicious animals that could be found, with the greatest ease to me and with the least possible suffering to themselves. Whipping makes no durable impression on the brain, as this does; it requires hours where this method takes but minutes; it is often unsuccessful, which this never is.

I will only add that a horse never should be coaxed, he is first to be subdued by fear and ever after is controlled only as he has a sense of the superiority of the one who uses him.

_THE ONLY SAFE METHOD OF CONTROLLING A HORSE BAD TO SHOE._

I appended to a former plate instructions whereby a horse may be educated not to kick while shoeing; but if owners of horses will not take the pains to educate, it is scarcely reasonable that the blacksmith should be subject to severe torture in shoeing a vicious horse; therefore I have provided the foregoing plate as descriptive of the mode of perfectly controlling the horse’s hind-foot, so that the farrier need have no fears for his safety. Take a single rein or cord, make a slip-noose and put it on the horse’s hind-leg between the fetlock-joint and hoof; then bring the rein or cord forward to the breast and pass it around over the neck at the shoulder; now bring it down and put it under the rein or cord, forming a half-hitch, and bring up the leg so as to make it convenient for the smith to pare the hoof or nail the shoe; then take a pole-strap or one of similar width, and place it under the other strap or cord, forming a loop by means of the crupper or loop near the buckle with the buckle outside, now pass the end of the strap up on the inside and front of the leg and around the gambol-joint, bring it down and buckle it; when you want to clinch the nails let out the strap two or three holes and draw up tightly on the rein or cord that is in front of the breast and around the neck. By this means you can accomplish the desired end, as you have the foot and leg under your control.

Should the horse attempt to recline over on the blacksmith, put on the Bonaparte bridle with double half-hitch, and pull quickly two or three times, and he will gladly stand erect while being shod.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO BE AFRAID OF THE CARS._

Much difficulty, and loss of property, has resulted from not being able to control horses that become frightened at the approach of the locomotive or cars, and, in order to avoid the annoyance and prevent accidents, I have with great care prepared the foregoing plate, and will now give an accurate description of the mode of educating the animal, and the appliance required, I will first describe the bridle, seen at the right of the horse. Make the Bonaparte bridle as previously directed, then place it on the horse, stand at the nigh-side holding the cord in your right hand, now pass your left hand over the right and take hold of the cord, then by bringing the hand back and stepping in front of the horse, you have formed a half-hitch, then place it over the head and bring it down under the upper lip and above the upper jaw, thus you have a powerful bridle that will control any horse. Use this with great care and judgment, because you are now in a position to handle the wildest horse found in the country. Don’t forget to caress the horse the moment he obeys.

_SWEENY LINIMENT._

Alcohol, and spirits of turpentine, of each 8 oz.; camphor gum, pulverized cantharides and tincture of capsicum, of each 1 oz.; oil of spike 3 oz. Bathe this liniment in with a hot iron, and faithfully follow till a cure is effected.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO BACK AT THE WORD OF COMMAND._

This point in the education of a horse is one of great importance, for no animal can be considered thoroughly educated till he will obey the command of his driver without the necessity of using the rein or the whip. Many persons in order to stop their horse will draw with all their strength upon the rein, and to back him requires the exertion of a force enough almost to bring the horse on his haunches, when in either case a well-educated horse will stop or back at the driver’s voice without the need for even drawing upon the rein.

To educate the horse to back at the word of command, let the reader take his stand behind the horse and with the rein in his hand, previously arranged as shown in the engraving, commence the lesson. He may, if he pleases, start the horse forward for a few paces, then stop him, and then with a sudden, short and pretty powerful backward jerk, utter the word “back!” Great care must be taken to speak the word and give the backward jerk on the rein at the same instant, for the two must come together so as to be associated in the mind of the horse. When he obeys caress him, and continue repeating the lesson, and in a short time you will find that your horse will back at the word without your needing to even touch the reins. But in educating him to this there must not be the least interval between the word and the short, sharp jerk, for if only a few seconds pass he will not associate the two in his mind.

This method will be invariably successful, and is so far superior to the protracted and unsatisfactory means formerly employed, that it should be everywhere adopted.

_TO EDUCATE HORSES OR CATTLE NOT TO JUMP THE FENCE._

Buckle a surcingle around the horse’s body, then buckle a hame-strap, making two turns with strap between the knee and fetlock on each fore-leg; next buckle two hame-straps on each hind-leg, above and below the gambol-joint, placing a ring, say one and one-half inches in diameter, as seen in plate. Now place a strap or cord from the ring on off hind-leg up through the surcingle, then attach it to the nigh fore-leg; then another strap or cord from the nigh hind-leg to the off fore-leg. Now when the horse, or other animal, starts to jump over a fence the appliance will arrest his progress, for, as he throws his fore-legs forward, at the same time it acts upon his hind legs, taking them out from under him, and you will find him sitting up in the field where you turned him out. After three or four lessons your horse will be thoroughly educated not to jump a fence.

_FOR INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS._

First, bleed thoroughly; then give tinc. veratrum, ½ oz.; laudanum, 4 oz.; tincture aconite, ¼ oz.; shake well, and give a teaspoonful every three hours, in a pint of water, well sweetened, and, if the pulse is not reduced in a short time, increase the dose to a tablespoonful, until the fever abates. As soon as the horse recovers so as to eat and lie down naturally, keep him on hay, with a few carrots or potatoes, and daily give a bran-mash, with saltpetre, pulverized antimony and sulphur, for a week or ten days, and you will prevent dropsy of the chest, which usually follows this disease.

_A REMEDY TO CURE THE HEAVES._

One-half pint of turpentine, 2 oz. assafœtida, 2 oz. aloes, 4 oz. lobelia seed, 1 quart of whisky, 2 oz. of sal ammoniac, 4 oz. saleratus, 1 oz. of camphor.

Dose, one tablespoonful once a day.

_TO EDUCATE A COW NOT TO KICK WHILE BEING MILKED._

Hitch the cow to a post, then make the Bonaparte bridle as follows: Make a loop and put it on the lower jaw, carrying the end of the cord on the off-side of the head and around over behind the horns, bringing it down to the mouth on the nigh-side, through the loop. Now carry the cord around the nigh hind-leg, to the off hind-leg and tie it just above the gambol-joint. Then sit down to milk; now the moment the cow kicks, an impression is made on her brain, and she soon learns that by kicking she punishes herself, and rather than suffer the pain inflicted she yields to the influence and says by her actions, “I will not kick again.” The principle here is the obvious one that _no_ animal will persist in doing that which causes suffering to itself, and the moment that it comes to associate the idea of suffering with any action, it will make that action distasteful.

_COLIC OR GRIPES._

_Symptoms._—Pawing, manifesting a desire to lie down, and, without doing so, commence pawing again. As the symptoms increase, the animal cannot be kept on his feet; he frequently falls as if shot; pulse not altered from natural condition. Intervals of rest, together with the condition of the pulse, distinguish the disease from inflammation of the bowels.

Treat as follows:

Frequent injections of soap and water, and give internally spirits of nitre, 1 oz.; laudanum, 1 oz.; water, ½ pint; mix for drench. This may be repeated in twenty minutes, if relief is not obtained.

Another remedy, giving _instant_ relief:

From 5 to 10 drops of chloroform, given on sugar, I have never known to fail giving immediate relief. I have known men to be from home, and have their horses taken with this disease, and use this remedy, and in thirty minutes the horses were able to be driven.

_TO EDUCATE A COW TO LET HER MILK DOWN WHILE MILKING._

Much inconvenience, besides an actual loss of money, is experienced by persons who own cows that are in the habit of withholding their milk. Having spent fifteen years of my life in gathering knowledge of value to the farmer, and to other owners of animals, I am unwilling that even one valuable idea should be lost to the reader, and therefore I have, at considerable expense, illustrated the above-named point, believing that it will be of benefit to many persons. Although the method to be employed is very simple, it will be found practical in its operation, while success will be certain where the directions are followed:

Take a common bag, put into it a bushel or a bushel and a half of grain, or its equivalent in weight of sand, then place the bag across the back of the animal, as indicated in the engraving and the result will be shown in the milking. As an indication of the purpose of the cow to hold up her milk you will always see her hump up her back, then, by applying the remedy named, the habit will be speedily removed.

_PRACTICAL RESULT OF EDUCATING THE COW TO GIVE DOWN MILK._

Having directed the attention of the reader to the education of the cow so as not to disappoint her owner in receiving the quota of milk he may rightly expect, it is but natural that the eye should be gratified by witnessing the result. For this purpose I have prepared this engraving, in which is represented the bag and its contents upon the back of the animal, in just the spot where it should be placed. The reader will also perceive the impatient wife standing with milking pail and stool in hand, waiting for the result, which becomes apparent in the freely flowing milk, and one can almost imagine that he hears her saying to her husband that it is scarcely necessary now to milk the cow, for the simple method adopted has caused a spontaneous flow of milk, and nothing now is needed but to set the pail under her and view with wonder and delight the pleasing effect produced!

_A CURE FOR HEAVES, NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED._

Take a common stone jar, fill it with eggs, cover them with cider vinegar, and let it stand till the vinegar eats up the shells. Then stir all together. Take a lump of lime about the size of a goose-egg, slack it in hot water, using about one quart of water. Add one-half pint of the lime-water to a quart of the egg mixture. Give a teacupful, at feeding time, in feed, three times a day.

_TO CURE WORMS IN HORSES._

One dram white hellebore in powder, 1 dram sulphate of iron in powder, 1 oz. flaxseed meal.

The above for one dose, mixed with bran-mash, given at night. Repeat in forty-eight hours, if the horse is old. Two doses are enough for the worst case.

_TO EDUCATE CATTLE TO LEAD BEHIND A WAGON._

Make a rope halter and put it on the head of the animal you desire to lead; then take a small rope, about twenty feet long, double it in the center, placing it under the tail; cross it on the back, bringing the ends down each side of the animals neck and then through the nose-piece of the halter under the lower jaw, and tie the ends firmly to the end of your wagon.

If you wish to lead more than one, take another rope, twice the length of the former one, double it in the center, placing it under the tail, cross it on the back, bringing the ends down each side of the animal’s neck and then through under the lower jaw. Now bring the ends, one on each side of the forward cow, and carry the rope through the halter under the jaw and tie it to the wagon.

By adopting this plan no difficulty will be experienced in educating your animals to lead, and when you drive home with your cattle following thus they will be sure to arrive there at the same time as yourself.

_TO EDUCATE A TENDER-MOUTHED HORSE TO PULL ON THE BIT._

Many horses are very sensitive to a hurt in any part of the body, so much so that they often grow frantic when severely punished, and it seems to be the delight of some persons to inflict injury to a horse of this temperament, sometimes with a view to make him rear or prance about, believing it adds to the appearance of the animal, when the contrary is the fact; a bad habit is almost sure to grow out of such treatment, and then it may take some time to eradicate it. One of the evils often presented is that the animal becomes tender-mouthed, and I have known many cases where balking has been the result. Let me urge the reader never to jerk sharply on the bit, except when educating or correcting a habit, as heretofore directed.

The only effectual method of treatment for a tender mouth is to use a large straight bit, leave the check-rein quite loose, and drop the bit low down in the mouth, as seen in engraving, which will slip up and down and harden the mouth in a short time.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO BE AFRAID OF A BUFFALO ROBE._

The education of the horse being quite a new idea to many persons, it therefore becomes necessary that, in my characteristic explanations, I should make my ideas both plain and simple—so that even the most unlettered may not become fogged while attempting to apply any illustrated idea in my work.

A Buffalo robe is an article in common use, and one at which very many horses become frightened, proving a decided source of annoyance. Let not the reader imagine that one lesson, as below indicated, is sufficient to warrant success and thoroughly eradicate the habit. Much depends upon the temperament of the animal; but, in most cases, three lessons carefully imparted will accomplish the purpose. After you have given two or three lessons do not tempt your horse by suddenly approaching him with the robe, and when you do approach him, be sure you have the Bonaparte bridle on him, that you may be able at once to control when the slightest resistance is seen.

_Directions._—If your animal is very nervous lay him down, as directed in other places, fold the robe, hair side in, making it as small as possible; let him smell of it, rub it gently over his nose, head and body; punish if he resists—if not caress. When submission is apparent allow him to rise to his feet; then, with your Bonaparte bridle, properly adjusted, present the robe to him again. Bearing in mind the grand idea, punish for disobedience and caress when he obeys. Carefully avoid all unnecessary excitement while educating any animal, as it only tends to benumb their senses and make them less susceptible of being taught.

INTELLIGENCE OF ANIMALS.

In discussing the intelligence of animals I am aware that many persons, at the outset, would question the propriety of the term. Man has so long arrogated the exclusive possession of mind, or at least of a mind capable of rational reflection, that he is reluctant to concede the fact of its possession by the lower orders of animate life. Those acts which, in the brute creation, seem to proceed from the action of powers analagous to human intelligence, it has been usual to ascribe to an irrational faculty called instinct; a power invariable and despotic in its action, but in no degree the result of reflection; some metaphysicians even going so far as to assert that the action of animals is purely automatic, the difference in this respect between them and the automaton moved by wires and springs being that the former possesses a consciousness of their acts, while the latter does not. Facts in myriads, exist which challenge the correctness of such a theory, while in almost equal number they assert the existence, at least in its embryonic state, of a mind capable of thought, and, to a limited degree, of reflection and comparison, with the ability to deduce conclusions from the facts which it considers.

This intelligence varies greatly in the different animal races, in some species being barely perceptible, while in others it is too conspicuous to be ignored; and between individuals of the same species there exists a difference so marked that, in the more favored ones which come under our observation, the intelligence is so clear as to almost startle us by the feeling that behind the full, liquid eye of the horse, or prompting the fixed gaze bent on us by our trusty canine companion, there may be a mind kindred to our own and which lacks only the power of articulate expression to respond to our thoughts by answering sentiments. It is the absence of the power of speech in animals which leaves us in doubt as to the exact degree of intelligence possessed by them. If, when the farmer says, “Carlo! the cows are in the corn—turn them out!” the dog should turn his head and reply, “Yes, sir, I’ll have them out in a moment!” there could be no doubt of the intelligent interchange of thought. But the fact of his _doing_ that which in the supposed case he would express, proves as conclusively his comprehension of the command and his purpose to obey. The horse or dog, however fully he may understand the directions he receives, can give no other response than by his acts, and to words of praise or censure he can reply only by signs; these are clearly understood by us and show that our meaning is comprehended by the animal, thus proving a real interchange of thought. A popular author has said: “A dog may bark, a horse may neigh, but it is not by these sounds that they express the delicate shades of ever-varying emotion; it is by a thousand varieties of gesture which few indeed of us can analyze but which all clearly understand. A dog converses with his master by means of his eyes and his ears and his tail, nay rather by every muscle of his body.”

To test the existence and extent of intelligence we must determine the capacity for comprehending thought. We recognize this capacity in a child long before it can express itself in language. Its dawn is seen as the infant learns to associate certain articulate sounds with certain persons, acts, or things, and to distinguish the meaning of tones which encourage, restrain or chide it. It is only after a twelve-month or more of constant tuition, lovingly and intelligently given, that our children begin to express in language the thoughts which are awakened by our words and acts, yet the comprehension is as evident and the response as apparent, the whole mental process being as perfect, long before. The same test which proves the intelligence of the child demonstrates its existence in animals there is a similar power of comprehending the wishes expressed, by associating certain articulate sounds with certain acts required, as well as an equal recognition of the tones of voice by which approval, reproof or anger are made known; but, lacking the organs of speech, they are debarred, and forever must be, from any except the most limited _interchange_ of thought. For this reason, attentive study is needed in ascertaining the extent to which they comprehend and respond to the intelligence which addresses them.

In the case of wild or undomesticated animals there is little opportunity for investigating this interesting subject. We see the beaver build his dam, and we understand the object so admirably attained by his work. We know that the elephant, to be taken in the pitfall, must see on the earth that covers it the foot-prints of one of his fellows, and we surmise the process of reasoning by which he concludes that he is safe in venturing where another of his kind has trodden. We learn that the ostrich which in torrid regions trusts to the heat of the sand for the incubation of her eggs, will in a more temperate latitude supply the heat which would else be lacking by setting on her eggs during the cooler nights; but in none of these, nor in a score of other cases, in which there seems a rational foresight, can we determine how far the acts result from intelligent reflection. In domesticated animals, and especially in such as are trained for the service of man, the action of intelligence may be clearly traced; it is demonstrated by the ease and certainty with which they can be educated; it is seen in the readiness with which many receive and act upon ideas communicated to them; and in a multitude of instances the mental process is evident by which they have, independently, reached conclusions rationally deduced from facts of their previous knowledge. Mr. J. Hope relates a circumstance of a terrier who had been temporarily left by his master in the care of a Mrs. Langford at St. Albans. This lady owned a large house-dog which, disliking the presence of the stranger, quarreled with him, biting and severely wounding him, after which the terrier disappeared; but in a few days he returned again, accompanied by a powerful mastiff, when both together fell upon the original assailant, whom they nearly killed. The mastiff was the watch-dog at his master’s house, more than a day’s journey distant, and had been brought by the terrier for the sole purpose of avenging the injury he had received, after which they left in company and proceeded together to their home. Here was displayed a power of combining ideas and of communicating them to one of his own kind, when the two acted on the plan they had preconcerted.

In a work just issued, an anecdote is related of a dog who had lost his master and afterwards became old and blind, passing his time sadly in the same corner, which he rarely quitted. “One day came a step like that of his lost master, and he suddenly left his place. The man who had just entered wore ribbed stockings as his master had done. The old dog had lost his scent and referred at once to the stockings that he remembered, rubbing his face against them. Believing that his master had returned, he gave way to the most extravagant delight. The man spoke; the momentary illusion was dispelled, the dog went sadly back to his place, lay wearily down, and died.” Here was a double process of reasoning and even a balancing of testimony with a decision that the negative evidence of the strange voice outweighed the affirmative proof in the step and the stockings.

Much evidence favors the belief that animals not only become familiar with the words habitually addressed to them, but that they, to a certain extent, understand our language. A dog, belonging to a friend of the writer, would slink from the room with every indication of shame if a fault of which he had been guilty was spoken of in his presence. The author of “Chapters on Animals” describes a dog in his possession which clearly distinguishes between those visitors at the house who are favorites with his master and those whom he dislikes, and adds: “I know not how he discovers these differences in my feelings, except it be by overhearing remarks when the guests are gone.”

The elephant, though one of the clumsiest of animals, exhibits marks of high intelligence, and evidently understands the language in which he is addressed. He can be stimulated to unusual exertions by the promise of a reward. “I have seen,” says a French writer, “two occupied in beating down a wall which their keepers had desired them to do and encouraged them by a promise of fruits and brandy.” They were left alone and continued at the work, stimulated by the promised reward, until it was accomplished. “When a reward is promised to an elephant,” says the same author, “it is dangerous to disappoint him, as he never fails to revenge the insult.” Nothing of this could occur without an understanding of the language.

In India they were formerly employed to launch vessels, and it is related that one being directed to force a large ship into the water, the task proved beyond his strength; whereupon his master, in a sarcastic tone, ordered the keeper to take away this lazy beast and bring another; the poor animal, as if stung by emulation, instantly repeated his efforts, fractured his skull and died on the spot.

It may be said that the tones of the voice rather than the words are what the animal understands, yet a dog knows his name however spoken, and a horse understands a whole vocabulary of orders. But the intelligence which comprehends the meaning of a tone, is not less than that required to understand a word or sentence. Mr. Hamerton, the artist, widely known as a lover of animals, mentions a favorite dog which met an untimely death by drowning, and in his lament over his lost pet, says: “He was a dog of rare gifts, exceptionally intelligent, who would obey a look where another needed an order. He would sit studying his master’s face and had become from careful observation so acute a physiognomist that he read whatever thoughts of mine had any concern for him.”

The shrewd intelligence of our countrymen is nowhere more clearly seen than in the keen bargains the New Englander is famous for driving. But our domestic animals make bargains with us and sometimes resolutely keep us to them. On this point a pleasant writer relates an anecdote of a favorite mare who was so difficult to catch in the pasture as to often require six men to effect it; “but,” says he, “I carried corn to her for a long time, without trying to take her, leaving the corn on the ground. Next, I induced her to eat the corn while I held it, still leaving her free. Finally I persuaded her to follow me, and now she will come trotting half a mile at my whistle, leaping ditches, fording brooks, in the darkness and rain, or in impenetrable fog. She follows me like a dog to the stable and I administer the corn there. But it is a bargain; she knowingly sells her liberty for the corn. The experiment of reducing the reward to test her behavior having been tried, she ceased to obey the whistle and resumed her former habits; but the full and due quantity having been restored, she yielded her liberty again without resistance, and since then she is not to be cheated.”

A horse which is regularly used for attending church, will, from its own observation, learn to recognize the Sabbath and understand the meaning of the church bells. Two interesting illustrations of this fact I give on the authority of a recent number of the Hartford _Post_:

A pair of horses that had been used during the week in team-work to Springfield, on Sunday were harnessed and driven to the door unhitched, and, the family being rather tardy that morning, as soon as the second bell began to ring the horses started off alone, and with their usual Sunday motion went up in front of the church, when, after waiting the usual time, they quietly went around under the horse-shed.

Here the horses plainly understood the distinction between that day and the six previous ones when they had been driven to Springfield, else they would have gone, after starting, to where they had been going through the week; they also evidently understood that at the ringing of the second bell it was time to start for church. The gentleman who communicated the foregoing adds an instance which occurred in his own family:

The father of the writer, owing to increasing infirmities, rode alone to meeting, half a mile, driving an old gray mare twenty years old, and had not failed of going every Sabbath for some years. On one occasion, owing to a fall, he could not go to meeting, and on Sunday morning, as the time for meeting approached, the horse, in a lot near the house, manifested great uneasiness, and when the second bell struck she leaped over the fence and trotted quietly to church, stopping at her usual hitching-place, under an old elm tree, until the close of the service, when the faithful animal returned safely to the house.

When we remember that such exhibitions of intelligence occur continually where the animals have received no training on the subjects to which they relate, it seems certain that they are the result of a mental process which strongly resembles thought, and we would expect, from patient culture, displays of intelligence greatly in advance of those ordinarily taking place. Such an expectation is justified by the results which have followed training when directed to this end. In a paper entitled “Canine Guests,” Philip Gilbert Hamerton gives an account of the trained dogs of M. du Rouil which, but for the unimpeachable veracity of the writer, would be almost incredible. M. du Rouil began to educate his first dog out of curiosity to see the effect of the sort of education which seemed to him best adapted for establishing a close understanding between the human and canine minds; the results astonished himself and were so gratifying that he subsequently educated two others on the same principles. Two of these dogs, “Blanche” and “Lyda,” with their master, were guests of Mr. Hamerton, and the intelligence they exhibited, and which he describes, is, by his own admission, “incredible,” yet may be so only because of our ignorance of the nature and extent of the mental powers belonging to the animal creation. Among the many feats performed by them were the spelling of words by lettered cards; the correction of words purposely misspelled; the working out of simple problems in arithmetic and the playing of cards and dominoes. Of the latter, Mr. Hamerton says: “Both the dogs played a game at dominoes. This was managed as follows: the dogs sat on chairs opposite each other, and took up the domino that was wanted; but the master placed it in its position and kept announcing the state of the game. Their distress when they could not go on without drawing from the bank was announced in piteous whines, and amused us all exceedingly. Lyda was the loser, and precipitately retreated to hide herself with an evident consciousness of defeat.”

An incident occurred in the course of the evening which showed some understanding of language. A little girl wanted Blanche to come to her, but the dog kept away, on which M. du Rouil said, “Blanche, go salute the little girl!” She immediately went up to the child and made a formal obeisance.

The owner of Blanche stated that he was going home one night accompanied by the dog and on his way saw a man who was searching for some object that he had lost. “What are you seeking?” he asked. The man answered that he had lost 280 francs. “Possibly my dog may be able to find them for you; have you any money left? If you have, show her a piece of gold.” It was done and the dog directed to search. She at once set out and soon returned, bringing first one piece of gold, then another, and then a bank-note, till the whole sum that had been lost was regained.

M. du Rouil said that Blanche really knew all the letters and the playing-cards by their names, and Lyda really knew all the figures. In addition to this Blanche had studied about one hundred and fifty words in different languages, something like twenty in each language. So it was with Lyda and the figures. She knew each one by its name, and would bring the one called for. In describing the earlier stages of training through which these dogs had passed, their owner said the first thing was to make the dog fetch an object, the next to make him discriminate between one of two very different objects placed together, and bring one or the other as it was mentioned by its name. In beginning the alphabet he put two most dissimilar letters side by side to begin with, such as an O and an I, avoiding the confusion of similar ones, such as O and Q or B and R. Gradually the dog became observant enough to discriminate between letters in which the difference was not so marked. M. du Rouil said he had found the greatest difficulty in teaching Blanche to distinguish between the knaves and kings in playing-cards, but that she learned the aces very promptly. When he was asked what, after his ten years’ experience, was his opinion of the intelligence of dogs, he answered, with great emphasis, “that it is infinite.”

In subsequent pages I shall set forth my method of educating both dogs and horses to perform a variety of feats, which will be described, and from the ideas thus imparted the reader may multiply the number of tricks to any desired amount.

_FERREN’S PATENTED STEEL HORSESHOE._

One of the most valuable patents for Horseshoes was granted to H. B. Ferren, of Batavia, N. Y., for a Steel Horseshoe, which promises to come into general use, and will, to a very large extent, supersede an Iron Shoe, whether made by a machine or by hand, _because its form is the best, the material is durable_, and the manner of making is such as to secure economy, and its adoption will prevent many of the prevalent cruel malpractices upon a horse’s foot.

TRICK HORSES.

Many horses are susceptible of an education far more extensive than is necessary for ordinary use, and for the benefit of such persons as may desire to teach their horses something more than the usual accomplishments, whether for their own amusement, or for the purpose of seeing how far the intelligence of the animal can be developed, I have prepared a description of a variety of tricks, which, as performed by my horses, have been received with universal applause, both in Canada and in the United States; to simplify which, I have, at considerable cost, procured plates, illustrating each of the tricks. But that no person may be misled into supposing that this forms a part of my general system of educating the horse, I deem it proper to present these directions separately.

Though the tricks to be hereafter illustrated and explained will add nothing of intrinsic value to the horse, nor of real benefit to his owner, yet the reader will readily see in them the demonstration of a highly important fact, viz., that horses can be taught the meaning of words, and to yield obedience to sounds to such an extent as to convince a candid mind that their intelligence is far in advance of that generally attributed to them. With these remarks I will proceed to explain the _modus operandi_, as I call attention to a variety of tricks they may easily be taught to perform. Before passing to this, let me impress on the reader some leading principles in educating the horse. First, never allow yourself to get in a hurry; impatience or excitement on your part will go far in defeating the object of your instructions. Second, do not prolong your lessons beyond twenty minutes at one time; and, especially, never use severity beyond that which may be absolutely necessary. Thus by kindness and patience in repeating your lessons at short intervals, you will surmount every difficulty and accomplish your purpose in a manner satisfactory to yourself.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO MOUNT A PEDESTAL._

First make the Bonaparte bridle, and place it on your horse, then lead him quietly up to the pedestal, and say to him, “Get up with your fore-feet!” of course he will not obey; now you must teach him your meaning. While you hold the bridle let some one take hold of his front foot, raise it carefully and place it on the pedestal; then caress him, after which say, “Get down!” at the same time using your bridle in gently backing him. When he puts his foot down do not omit to caress him. Repeat this until he will obey when spoken to, then go through the same process with the other foot. After this, place both feet on the pedestal; then require him to get down, then up and down till he will obey you without the use of the bridle. Great care should be taken not to excite the horse while educating him, for when excited his brain becomes muddled, and he is unfitted for retaining your instruction.

To make your horse stand on three legs: take a pin, and place it in the end of your whipstock, and with the point prick him slightly on the leg, in front, just below the fetlock joint, but not hard enough to make him kick; repeat this several times accompanied by the words, “hold up your foot!” continuing to repeat the punishment and words until he will obey the command without punishment.

_HOW TO MAKE A HORSE WALTZ._

Tie his head to his side by means of a surcingle and cord, fastening the cord at the side, reaching from the mouth; touch him lightly with the whip. He has to go, and, of course, he must go around and around. He soon learns perfectly to waltz by the motion of the whip, the teacher still repeating the word “waltz.”

_TO EDUCATE THE HORSE TO WALK ON HIS HIND FEET._

Make the Bonaparte bridle, and put it on your horse; also put on a bitting rig, similar to the one shown in the engraving, drawing his head pretty well up and in. Now stand near his head with bridle in hand, and jerk upward, as though you desired to lift him up, at the same time repeating the words, “stand up on your hind feet!” repeat this several times, and if he does not make a move to please you, take hold of one leg, raising him up with one hand and using the bridle with the other, as before directed, not forgetting to caress him if he makes the slightest move in the direction of obedience. In order to ensure success, kindness and patience should be the ruling principles. After you have taught your horse to stand on his hind feet you will next educate him to walk upright. This can be easily done by observing the following directions. Stand in front of him, whip in hand, saying, “Get up!” then shake the whip in front of him, stepping backwards slowly, at the same time say to him, “Come here!” repeating it sharply and touching him gently with the whip on the knees. By carefully observing the above directions, you will quickly teach your horse to stand upright, and to walk on his hind feet.

_HOW TO MAKE A HORSE SAY “NO.”_

Prick him on the neck at the terminus of the mane till he shakes his head, then remove the pin, caress him, repeat for a while, and your horse will soon shake his head when you raise your hand to your heart; be always sure to treat the animal kindly for well-doing, and caress him when he deserves it, and he will repay you by his love for you and willingness to do your bidding.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO PUSH A VEHICLE._

After your horse has been taught to mount a pedestal with his fore-feet, and to stand and walk upright on his hind-feet it is a comparatively easy task to educate him to mount upon a vehicle and push it. It is not at all necessary that a horse should be attached to it in front, as appears in the illustration, where the engraver has placed a representation of my black horse, Prince Albert, as a matter of taste, not as being necessary in conducting the instruction.

In this trick it will be scarcely necessary for the educator to put the Bonaparte bridle on his horse unless he should show some stubbornness, but, with bitting rig on, stand near his head, whip in hand, and say to him in rather a loud and sharp tone of voice, “Get up!” Some fear on his part may be manifested, still do not give up nor lose your patience, but lift his feet up and caress him. When he does get up do not at first allow the vehicle to move, nor until he has mounted two or three times, then say to him, “Push!” and in a short time you will have taught him not only to get up on the vehicle but to push it in front of him. After your horse has been thoroughly taught, you will discover that he is delighted to amuse you, and he will appear pleased to participate in the enjoyment of the trick.

_HOW TO MAKE A HORSE GO LAME._

Tap him on the fore-leg till he holds it up, then caress him kindly; lead him with the left hand to the bit, and tap the left fore-leg with a stick in your right hand; repeat the word “lame, lame, lame,” and your horse will soon learn to hold up one leg at the command.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO BE VICIOUS._

Many persons are incredulous in regard to the assertion that horses can be educated; had one lived a hundred years ago he might have been excused for such incredulity, but in this age of knowledge and advancement in all departments of human life, no man should close his eyes to any of the developments wrought by man’s ingenuity. That the horse possesses more intelligence than many are disposed to admit, facts abundantly prove, and that he is quite as susceptible of acquiring evil and vicious habits as is man, the following trick will show.

My horse, Prince Albert, appears to enjoy the subjoined trick greatly, and I regard it as quite a sensational one. To educate a horse to be vicious you have only to attract his attention, and then appear to be afraid of him. For instance, strike him lightly with a whip on the knees, then run away from him, and after you have repeated this a few times he will run after you. You may make the trick more interesting by calling him names, such as “a nigger,” “a mean horse,” and on speaking the words run from him. But be careful to have some place of safety, so that, when he follows, you may get out of his reach, as at some time he may disappoint and overtake you and mete out a punishment that will be anything but pleasing or desirable.

_HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO LAUGH._

Prick him with a pin on the nose till he turns his lip up; then caress him well. He will soon learn that when you point towards him and say, “Laugh,” that it means a prick in the nose, if he does not turn his lip up.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO WALK ON HIS KNEES._

The reader will observe, by reading my book, that great use is made of the Bonaparte bridle, and if those who handle horses will always resort to it when obedience from the horse is desired, they will save much time, trouble and annoyance that so often occur, especially to persons who quickly loose their tempers. Men can accomplish more in fifteen minutes using the bridle than in fifteen hours with any other means, as it does not inflict a severe punishment when properly used, but never fails to secure obedience. Therefore, as in most cases it is used, I, in the present, introduce it again.

Put a surcingle on the horse, attach a strap to his nigh fore-foot between the fetlock joint and hoof and draw it up to within eight or ten inches of his body, then take a strap or cord, say 6 or 7 feet long, and fasten it to his off fore-leg in the same manner and secure the services of some person to assist you, directing him to stand on the off-side, and, when directed, to pull up his foot. Place on the horse the Bonaparte bridle, and take your position in front of him with bridle in hand, requesting assistant to pull, when your horse will come down on his knees, now pull on your bridle and say, “Come here,” when he will soon obey you. Do not make your lessons long, but repeat them often; not forgetting to caress him if he should make the slightest move towards you.

Never attempt to teach a horse this trick with shoes on his hind-feet, as he might cut himself, which would cause him to dread a second effort.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO DRIVE A BOY OFF THE PEDESTAL._

It will be necessary to first educate the horse to mount the pedestal. Instructions to do this may be found elsewhere; then proceed in the following manner to educate to the above trick. Put on the Bonaparte bridle, using a cord, say twenty feet long, and send your horse away from you with a whip, the length of the cord, then give him a slight pull, and say, “Come here;” then run from him and mount the pedestal yourself; when he approaches he will try to mount, and as he does so you jump off. After you have thus exercised him a few times get a boy to assist you. Let the boy stand on the pedestal, and say to your horse, “Come here and mount up;” instruct the boy to leave so soon as the animal shall mount.

You will find this trick quite a sensational one, and not difficult to learn your horse.

_TO SHAKE HANDS._

This is easily accomplished by tying a short strap or piece of cord to the forward foot below the fetlock; then stand directly in front of the horse, and hold the end of the strap in your hand, and say, “Shake hands, sir.” After which pull immediately upon the strap, which will bring his foot forward, and which you are to accept as shaking hands; then, of course, you must caress and feed him, and keep him repeating, until, when you make the demand, he will bring the foot forward in anticipation of having it pulled up.

_HOW TO MAKE A HORSE BOW._

Prick him in the breast with a pin, till he throws his head down and up the least bit; then take the pin away, and caress him kindly; repeat for a few times, until when you stand back and attract his attention, he will nod his head, expecting a prick in the breast.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO SIT DOWN._

Horses differ very much in their capacity for being taught therefore, if you desire a pleasing subject, select one that is tractable. Directions: Make the Bonaparte bridle, and place it on your horse, so that you may have him under proper control, then put on him a common hame collar; now take two pole-straps and place one on each hind-leg, below the fetlock joint, and attach a cord, say twelve feet long, to each strap, carry your cord up through the collar on each side and bring the ends behind him, holding also the end of the Bonaparte bridle in your hand, and commence to pull on your cords; now repeat over the words, “sit down;” as he goes backwards draw up still more on your cords, until he shall sit down. Do not allow him to remain in this sitting posture more than a minute the first lesson. Repeat this two or three times a day for five or six days, and you, with the assistance of a whip pointed downwards to the ground, will witness the pleasing effect of your instruction by seeing your horse sit down at the word of command.

_TO CURE THE SCRATCHES IN THE SHORTEST TIME EVER KNOWN._

Use two tablespoonfuls of lard, and one tablespoonful of slacked lime; brush out the dirt and dust from the foot; _use no water_. Apply the salve, well mixed, twice each day. It will cure the worst cases in 4 to 6 days.

Another remedy:

Hydrate of potassa, 10 grains; pulverized nut-galls, ½ oz.; white lead, pulverized opium, each ¼ oz.; lard, ¼ lb. Wash with soap-suds, rub dry, and apply the mixture night and morning. Give purging ball.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO BORE FOR OIL._

Place on your horse the Camanche bridle, and educate him to the words, “Come here,” so that he will mind you readily on hearing the words; by this you can better control him while educating to the trick in question. Some difficulty may at first be experienced, but by patience and perseverance you will not fail.

Take an ordinary pole-strap and place it on your horse below the fetlock joint on the off fore-foot; now take one loose turn round the nigh fore-foot, and take the end of the strap in one hand, with the other hand pull gently on the bridle, using the words as instructed. Your animal will attempt to obey, but will find himself somewhat hampered, yet he will quickly learn. If he should at first move a foot to please you, say “Whoa,” and then caress. Make your lesson short, and do not try to force him too much, for if you do he will become excited and resist your effort.

_HOW TO MAKE A HORSE WALK UP._

First put a rope around his neck, bring it down through his mouth, back through the loop on the neck, jerk him till he raises his fore-feet the least bit, then stop and caress him; then check him up tight to a surcingle—from the bit to the side-ring is the better way; then jerk on the cord, and he will soon get up erect; repeat, still caressing him well for all he does; he will soon get up at the motion of the whip. You should, when practicing him, repeat the words, “get up, sir!” It is in this manner I taught Tom Thumb to go up and down stairs, and to perform on the stage in different places, affording amusement to thousands of witnesses.

_A SURE METHOD OF MAKING A HORSE BAD TO CATCH._

Two or three pages might be written upon this subject, and profitably read by owners of horses. Young men and boys are largely addicted to the habit of riding or leading the horse up to the bars or fence, and, some being too lazy to let down the rails properly, compelling him to jump over, and if he resists, the first effort is to hit him with the bridle or halter, and away the animal goes almost frantic with fear. To another class it proves an amusement, certainly arising from a depraved nature, as they like to see the animal jump; and to enjoy their sport they hurry him over regardless of consequences—not thinking they are laying the foundation of a very bad habit in the horse—that of being bad to catch in the field. Let those who have been guilty in the past, after reading this paragraph over, desist from pursuing such a course of conduct toward horses, and ere long the time will come when there will be no need to apply the remedy—elsewhere found—to educate the horse that is bad to catch in the field.

_HIDE BOUND._

This condition of the skin is usually produced by any derangement of system. Medicine of an alterative character is here indicated. The most successful remedy is sulphur, pulverized, 8 oz.; nitrate of potassa, pulverized, 3 oz.; black antimony, pulverized, 2 oz.; sulphate of iron, 4 oz. Mix well together, and give one tablespoonful twice a day.

Another good remedy:

Take saltpetre, 4 oz.; crude antimony, 1 oz.; sulphur, 2 oz. Both the saltpetre and antimony should be finely pulverized, then add the sulphur, and mix well together. Dose: tablespoonful of the mixture in bran-mash daily.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO TAKE A HANDKERCHIEF FROM HIS SIDE._

The reader must understand that it is necessary first to educate your animal to obey the words “come here” and “whoa,” before he can be taught tricks successfully.

There must be great caution used in teaching the above trick. First stand on the nigh-side and prick the animal lightly on the shoulder; he will reach round and bite near where the punishment is inflicted. After you have repeated this a few times, hold a handkerchief in hand with the pin and he will soon catch hold of it with his teeth; as you use the pin, say “Take it from the nigh-side.” Next prick him with a pin on the off-shoulder, handkerchief accompanying, and say “Take it from the off-side.” When you have given him five or six lessons, you may hold the handkerchief on his side and touch him with your finger, repeating the words above directed. The instructor must be cautious when using the pin in educating, not to provoke so as to make the animal cross.

_DISTEMPER._

All catarrhal affections are classed by horse owners under the head of distemper. Common catarrh, epidemic catarrh, laryngitis, bronchitis, and all other diseases accompanied by nasal discharges, are regarded by horsemen as one and the same.

The following remedy is to cure distemper in its simple form, as we find it in colts soon after the disease commences. If there is swelling under the jaws, poultice the throat with flaxseed meal, or bread and milk. Apply mustard and vinegar, and give internally one of the following powders in feed: pulverized gentian, 2 ounces; sulph. copper, 1 oz.; pulverized ginger, 6 drams; mix, and divide into 8 powders.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO KISS A BOY._

This kind of education is not particularly beneficial to the horse owner, but it illustrates clearly the idea foreshadowed in many parts of my work: first, that the horse may be taught almost anything that is in his power to do; second, that if you go rightly to work you may so gain his confidence that he will cheerfully obey every reasonable command.

_Direction._—Take a piece of apple, place it in your mouth and say to your horse, “Kiss me.” He will approach you to take it; when he does so caress him. After repeating this a few times, when you approach him extend your mouth towards his and repeat the words “kiss me.” If he does not respond, place a piece of apple in your mouth as before, and repeat it until he shall obey without the use of the apple.

_BONE SPAVIN._

One-half pound of blood root; 1 quart of alcohol; 2 oz. tannin; ¼ lb. alum. Mix and let stand. Shaking several times a day till the strength is all in the alcohol, and bathe the spavin twice a day, rubbing with the hand.

_FOR WINDGALLS._

Olive oil, 2 oz.; nitric acid, ¼ oz. Rub as much in every day, or every second or third day, as will bear without starting the hair.

_FOR INFLAMED SWELLINGS OR LAMED SHOULDERS._

Equal parts oil amber, oil spike, gum camphor, and ether. Should be shaken well before using, and well rubbed in with the hand.

EDUCATING DOGS.

_TO ROLL A BARREL._

Place, on the dog the Bonaparte bridle so that you may control him; then put his fore-feet upon the barrel, standing in front of him with a piece of meat extended towards him, and say, “Roll the barrel;” pull gently on the cord, and if he should start the barrel don’t fail to caress him. With two dogs, put one on the top of the barrel, and they will quickly learn to roll it without being enticed by meat.

_TO FIRE A GUN._

Drill a hole in the back of a common chair; attach a piece of iron at the lower part of the pistol, and place it in the chair as illustrated; tie a string with a knot in the end, to the trigger; let it run through a ring in the butt of the pistol, then tie a piece of meat to the end of the string; now the dog will try to get the meat; in doing so he will fire it off. Load the pistol with blank cartridges. A few lessons will educate the animal so that at the order, “Make ready—present—fire!” he will obey. Place his mate in front of the pistol in a sitting posture and stand near him, and when the report is heard, teach him to lie down, which you can easily do by at first pressing him down with your hand until he will mind the word “dead.” Dogs are remarkably fond of being caressed, and the reader should not neglect this important accompaniment to his instructions.

_TO PASS BETWEEN YOUR LEGS._

Hold meat in your hand and pass it from one hand to the other between your legs. Occasionally give the animal a small piece; you will thus induce him after a little to obey the command “Pass through,” motioning in the direction with your hand.

_TO JUMP THROUGH A HOOP._

At the first lesson procure a barrel hoop and elevate it, say six inches from the ground, holding it in your hand, and with the other hold out a piece of meat a short distance from the hoop, and say to your dog, “Jump.” He will go for the meat; increase the height of the hoop a little each time, and you will soon have taught him so that you may not only reduce the hoop in size, but he will obey you without the use of meat.

_TO STAND ON CHAIRS._

Place two chairs back to back; then separate the chairs, say one foot apart, and decoy your dog to mount on one chair; then hold a piece of meat in your hand elevated above the chairs, and it will attempt to climb for the meat; repeat this process a few times, and soon you will educate the animal to rest its feet on the back of each chair; after which you may increase the distance until you distend the body, as seen in engraving, in accordance with your wishes. Continue until it will readily obey you without the use of meat; often caress the animal, as by this means you increase confidence and secure obedience.

MISCELLANEOUS.

_FOR CURING COLIC IN HORSES._

_Symptoms._—Pawing, manifesting a desire to be down, and, without doing so, commence pawing again. As the symptoms increase the animal cannot be kept on his feet; he frequently falls as if shot; pulse not altered from natural condition. Intervals of rest, together with the condition of the pulse, distinguish the disease from inflammation of the bowels. Treat as follows:

Take a piece of woolen cloth, about one foot square, or its equivalent in pieces, saturate the cloth thoroughly with mutton or beef tallow, using from a quarter to a half pound, then roll up the cloth and it is ready for use; next place a blanket over the head of the horse, as seen in engraving; then set fire to the cloth, holding it under the horses head with a shovel, and allowing him to inhale the smoke. Care should be used so as not to strangle the horse. By strictly following the foregoing treatment the efficacy of this remedy will be shown, as the animal will be relieved in from fifteen to twenty minutes.

Another remedy is:

Frequent injections of soap and water; and give internally, spirits of nitre, 10 drams; laudanum, 10 drams; water, ½ pint. Mix for drench. This may be repeated in twenty minutes, if relief is not obtained.

Another remedy, giving _instant_ relief:

From 45 to 50 drops of chloroform, given on sugar, I have never known to fail giving immediate relief.

I have known men to be from home, and have their horses taken with this disease, and use this remedy, and in thirty minutes the horses were able to be driven.

_THE ONLY SAFE AND PRACTICAL WAY TO GIVE A HORSE MEDICINE._

Much difficulty is experienced in giving medicine to a horse, but those who view and comprehend the foregoing illustration will see how easily all difficulty may be removed. In administering the medicine while the animal is standing, there is a constant liability to annoyance from the danger of strangling, by holding the head too high, or of spilling the medicine, in which cases the owner is foiled and the horse is left to suffer. The idea as illustrated, of which I claim to be the originator, though simple in itself is of great importance.

_Directions._—If your horse is standing, use the directions previously given to throw him; when down, turn his mouth upward and pull a little on the cord used in throwing him, when he will open his mouth, and you can give the medicine with a spoon without risk of spilling it; always observing care not to allow it to enter the nostrils, by which a horse may easily be strangled. Any person following these directions, will soon appreciate the value of the method described.

_SPAVIN._

This being a valuable recipe, it is worth money to any man dealing in horses.

Euphorbium, 5 oz.; cantharides, fine, 2 oz., iodine, 1 oz., dissolved in alcohol; red precipitate, ½ oz.; corrosive sublimate, 2 oz.; quicksilver, ½ oz.; hog’s lard, 6 oz.; white turpentine, 6 oz.; verdigris, ¼ lb. Melt the lard and turpentine together, then, while hot, add the others, except the quicksilver, which must be stirred in as it becomes cold. Mix well. When cold it is fit for use. Rub it in well on the spavin every day for three days, then wash clean with soap-suds, and omit for three days; then repeat for three days, and so continue until a perfect cure is effected. Should it blister, use more cautiously.

_TO TELL A HORSE’S AGE._

There is only one sure way of telling the age of a horse, and that is by an examination of his teeth, and that only extends to a certain age, although an experienced horseman can guess very nearly for some time after that period. There are six teeth in the front part of a horse’s mouth, above and below, called the gatherers, from which we may judge of his age. When a colt is foaled, he generally has no teeth in the front part of his mouth. In a few days, two come in the upper jaw, and two below; and again, after a few days, four more appear, but the corner teeth do not make their appearance until he is four or five months old; these twelve teeth remain unchanged in the front of the colt’s mouth until he is about two years old, when he sheds the two center nippers.

At three years old, a colt sheds the adjoining teeth. At four years old, the under or corner teeth. At five years old, the bridle tooth makes its appearance. At six years old, the cups leave the two center teeth below. At seven years old, the cups leave the adjoining teeth. At eight years old, the cups leave the outer or corner teeth. At nine years old, the cups leave the two center nippers, above. At ten years old, the cups leave the adjoining teeth. At eleven years old, the cups leave the corner upper teeth. At twelve years, or past, the groove on inside of the bridle tooth disappears in a horse. Mares very seldom have them.

_NEW METHOD TO TELL THE AGE._

(See engraving of horse’s teeth from the age of 7 to 18 years. Always look for the cups in the upper teeth.)

7 years. The cups in center of teeth are large. 8 years. A trifle smaller. 9 years. Still smaller. 11 years. Smaller. 12 years. Cups in center of teeth are smaller and nearly round. 14 years. The teeth are round and cups have nearly disappeared. 16 years. Are a mere speck in the teeth; scarcely discernible. 18 years. The cups have worn away, and the teeth are round.

TRAINING STEERS.

Drive your steer in a small yard, fenced so that he cannot escape. Then approach him gently, and if he runs, do not run after him, but follow slowly and quietly. Should he again run from you, do not strike him with the whip, or in any way frighten him, he will soon stand and permit you to approach him. Place then around his body a surcingle or strap, near the fore-legs. Take a hame-strap and buckle around the near fore-foot; take a cord or rope, and pass it through under the surcingle, and tie to the strap which is around the foot. The cord should be twenty or thirty feet long, to permit him to run about you in the yard, without your pulling on it. Draw up on the rope to force him to move on three legs; approach him gently, till he will permit you to handle him as you please. Then hold up the near fore-foot by the cord, with your left hand, and holding the whip in your right, pass it over his shoulder, and quietly touch him on the off-side of his head, and at the same time say, “Haw!” continue thus till he moves his head towards you, for which caress him about the head and neck; repeat this till he will “haw,” at the word, towards you. Should he attempt to run from you, pull on the strap, say “Haw,” at the same time touch him on the head with the whip. He will soon learn to stop at the word of command, in, this way, and turn towards you readily. Then take off the rig and turn him loose. Then proceed with the mate in the same way, when you can turn it out, and by this time the other steer will be ready to receive another lesson. Drive it in the same yard, and repeat the lesson with a whip. Quietly touch on the near side of the head, and at the same time say, “Gee!” until he will move around from you. Then caress him, till he will “gee” or “haw” readily. Go through the same lesson with the other. That is all you should try to do with them in four hours’ time. Take both together in the yard; repeat this lesson till both understand what you desire of them. Take one of them near the wall; stand by his side; hit him gently on the head, at the same time say “Back!” till he will step back; then caress him. Repeat, till he will go back readily at the word. Give each the same lesson. This manner of training steers will make them always do your bidding. When convenient, repeat the above lessons, with both together. Then put on the yoke, and let them go. One hour, at first, is long enough to become accustomed to the restraint of the yoke. Repeat this in the yard.

If the steers should ever run from you, which often occurs in an ordinary method of training, buckle a hame-strap around the foot, bring it up through the surcingle back to the sled or wagon, between the steers. Let the man pull on the cord if they attempt to run away; this will pull up their feet; whip them over the head, which will stop them and break up the habit.

TREATISE ON HORSESHOEING.

The main object should be to have the shoe so formed as to size, weight, fitting, and fastening, as to combine the most advantages of protection, and preserve the natural tread of the foot the best. In weight, it should be proportioned to the work or employment of the horse. The foot should not be loaded with more iron than is necessary to preserve it. If the work of the horse is principally on the road, at heavy draught, the shoe should be rather heavy, in order that it may not be bent by contact with hard, uneven earth; it should be wide in the web, and of equal thickness and width from the toe to the heel, that it may as much as possible protect the sole, without altering the natural position of the foot; it should be well drawn in at the heels, that it may rest on the bars, thereby protecting the corn place, or angles between the bar and crust, and should in no part extend beyond the outer edge of the crust.

It is too often the case that the shoe is made according to the smith’s notions of what the form of the horse’s foot should be, and the foot is pared, burned, and rasped until it fits the shoe. Now, it should always be borne in mind that the shoe is intended for the foot, and not the foot for the shoe, and that it is therefore peculiarly proper to make the shoe fit the natural form of the foot. It is impossible to have the foot of a horse sound and safe, for work and use, after bringing it to an unnatural figure, by the use of the knife and rasp. The foot of the horse being elastic, it expands to the weight of the horse, in precisely the same degree, whether resting upon the most open or the most contracted shoe. Therefore, the shape of the shoe cannot possibly affect the shape of the foot. The form of the foot is determined by the situation of the nails If the nails are placed so that the inside quarters and heels are left free to expand in a natural manner, no shape which we can give to the shoe can of itself change the form of the foot. It must not be inferred, however, from this that the shape of the shoe is of no importance; quite the contrary being the case, as I have already shown. In forming the shoe, we should always adopt that which produces the greatest number of advantages with the fewest disadvantages.

We find that the sole-surface of the foot is by nature concave in form, which seems to offer the greatest fulcrum of resistance to the horse when traveling. It is important to preserve the natural mechanical action of the horn and sole; therefore the ground surface of the foot, that is to say, the ground surface of the shoe, should be leveled cup fashion; its outer edge being prominent, corresponds to the lower and outer rim of the hoof; while the shoe being hollow, resembles the natural cavity of the sole of the foot. The ground surface of the shoe should always be concave.

The pattern that nature has presented us in making the sole concave, cannot be improved upon by the smith, with all his skill. The expansion of the heels, and growth of the foot, require that the shoe should be long enough, and wide enough at the heels, to allow for the natural growth of the foot in the time it is calculated the shoe should be on before being reset; for as the foot enlarges, the shoe is brought forward until it loses its original proportion, and becomes too short and narrow. The shoe may be about a quarter of an inch wider and longer than the extreme bearing of the heels; and the nail-holes should be punched coarse and in the center of the web. The manner of fastening the shoe is what really affects the foot, and what requires the most special attention in shoeing; for the foot, being elastic, expands in the same proportion on the rough as on the nicely-fitted shoe. It is the number and position of the nails that really affect the foot. If they are placed well back in the quarters, four on a side, as is common, the crust is held as firmly to this unyielding shoe as if in a vice, which utterly prevents the free action necessary to its health. Inflammation is produced, which causes contraction and the consequent, derangement of the whole foot. If the free natural expansion of the foot, and the spreading of the quarters in proportion to the growth of the hoof is prevented by the nailing of the shoe, irritation of the fleshy substance between the crust and coffin-bone will result, and ultimately create so much diseased action of the parts as to cause contraction and navicular disease. Shoes may be fastened without causing such mischief, if the following method of nailing is observed.

In experimenting, for the purpose of ascertaining how few nails are absolutely necessary, under ordinary circumstances, for retaining the shoe securely in its place as long as it should remain upon the foot, it has been satisfactorily established that five nails are amply sufficient for the fore shoes, and seven for the hind ones, three should be placed on the outside of the foot, and two on the inner side, near the toe, thereby leaving the foot free to expand in a natural manner. The nails should not be driven high up in the crust, but brought out as soon as possible. Another mistake with most smiths is in rasping the clinches away too fine; they should be turned broad and flat. It is also a custom with some to rasp and sand-paper the whole surface of the hoof, for the purpose of making it look nice and smooth. Such a practice should never be tolerated; the covering thus removed is provided by nature to protect the too rapid evaporation of the moisture of the hoof, and when taken away, causes the horn to become dry and brittle. It has so long been customary to use as many nails as could be conveniently driven, in fact, of fastening the shoe as if it were to a lifeless block of wood, that the fear is very commonly entertained that the shoe will not be held in its place with so few nails. Such fears are utterly groundless, as both theory and practice demonstrate. If the presence of a nail in the crust were a matter of no moment, and two or three more than are really necessary were merely useless, no great reason would exist for condemning the common practice of using too many nails, but it is far otherwise; the nails, aside from confining the natural expansion of the hoof, separate the fibres of the horn, which never, by any chance, become united again, but continue apart and unclosed, until, by degrees, they grow down with the rest of the hoof, and are finally, after repeated shoeing, removed by the knife.

As these holes cannot possibly grow down and be removed under three shoeings, it will be found, even with a small number of nails, that three times that number of holes must exist in the hoof all the while; and as they are often, from various causes, extended into each other, they necessarily keep it in a brittle, unhealthy state, and materially interfere with the future nail-hold. As the position of the hind-foot, and the nature of its office, render it less liable to injury than the fore-foot, consequently, it less frequently lames; however, disease of the navicular bone of this foot is by no means impossible. The same care should be taken as with the fore-foot. Calks, although they may be turned down of perfectly even length on each side (which is seldom done), are objectionable appendages, and should be dispensed with, except, perhaps, for very heavy draughts, or when the roads are frozen or covered with ice.

_TO PREVENT HORSES INTERFERING._

Nature has provided a proper hoof for the horse, but sometimes it is round and flat and the animal will strike itself with the crust when not shod; the natural tendency being to travel very close, especially with the hind-feet.

Well-informed minds, together with the mechanical skill of many blacksmiths, have been brought to bear upon this topic, and after years of experience and research they have been unable to remedy this evil. As such I term it, because horses have suffered much, and become depreciated in value because of being addicted to the annoying habit of interfering.

I here propose to give a sure and certain remedy that has never been known to fail. The preparation of the hoof is by no means as important as that of the shoe; yet, should the animal interfere very badly, it may be better to leave the outside a trifle the lowest; however, the smith ought to be governed by circumstances, not as to the shoe, but to paring the hoof. All that can be removed from the inside without putting the hoof out of shape ought to be done. Also pare the hoof at the toe instead of the heel, simply rasping it so as to form a level surface. Prepare the shoe carefully in accordance with the following directions, and as illustrated on foregoing engraving, Fig. 1:

Make the inside twice the width and twice the thickness that you do the outside, gradually tapering the width and thickness from the toe-calk. Make the heel-calk on the inside or heavy part of the shoe, about an inch long, and lengthwise from heel to toe, and incline it a little inward to the frog of the foot. Don’t allow your shoes to remain on longer than four weeks at most, and use as small nails as possible.

_OVERREACHING._

Young horses are more subject to overreaching than old ones. It very frequently disappears as the speed of the animal is increased. At a moderate gait, the front feet do not always get out of the way in time for the hind ones, as they are brought forward. Sometimes the heels are cut or badly bruised, and occasionally the shoes are torn from the fore-feet.

_Remedy._—Have the front shoes made nearly twice the weight of the hind shoes. Lower the toe-calk on the fore shoe and increase the ordinary length of the calk on the hind shoe, and do not make the fore shoe to project more than half an inch beyond the heel. If the horse should have a good square heel, don’t allow the shoe to project any. Observe to instruct the smith to pare the toe or forward part of the fore-foot, and _not the heel_, simply rasping it to form a level surface. See illustration of shoes, Figs. 2 and 3.

SURE METHOD OF PRODUCING A RAPID GROWTH IN HORSES’ HOOFS.—Wash the hoof and apply common soft soap inside and out, twice a day, avoiding to rub any on the frog of the foot. Care should be used so as not to allow the soap to remain on the hair near the hoof. By putting a mark near the hair, the operator will be better able to judge the rapid growth. While using the above, should the hoof get soft, apply salt, which will quickly harden. I have grown an entirely new hoof on a horse in six weeks, by following the above direction.

AN EXPOSITION OF THE DUNBAR SYSTEM OF HORSESHOEING, AND TREATMENT OF THE HORSE’S FOOT.

_As taught to the Farriers of the United States Army by ALEXANDER DUNBAR, under the authority of the Joint Resolution of Congress, and for which Dunbar received twenty-five thousand dollars. Highly recommended to the U. S. Army by Robert Banner and George Wilkes._

_INSTRUCTIONS FOR FITTING AND DRIVING THE SHOE._

The first thing to be done is to carefully examine the horse’s feet all around, to see that they are of a natural shape, taking care to abstain from any action that will tend to excite the horse.

The shoes should be removed one at a time, and the nails carefully drawn after the clinches are cut, one at a time; anything like tearing off the shoe by main force should by all means be avoided.

The shoe being removed, the rasp should then be used on the edge of the foot where the shoe has been, removing all dirt and gravel which may have accumulated there, and thus prevent injury to the shoeing knife.

If the foot is healthy and of a natural shape, and has been shod regularly, no alteration is required, but simply to pare out the sole of the foot, removing the bors entirely, and opening out the heels back. The surface of the frog should be trimmed off a very little, but the sides should never be cut.

By reference to Plate No. 12 the exact idea of the system of paring the foot may be gained. It has been practiced successfully, and is recommended for the simple reason that by the system of removing the bors and opening out the heels, contraction is prevented, and the frog retains its natural shape, because all pressure is removed from each side.

The foot should not be scooped out so as to leave the wall projecting without any support; for the wall of the hoof is the base upon which the horse travels, and this should be supported by a sufficiency of the sole as a “ground surface.” The shoes should be removed and the feet prepared one at a time.

In fitting a shoe to the foot, after it has been thoroughly prepared, the farrier should take hold of the foot and see that the shoe is perfectly easy on the heels, and that he has sufficient room all around in the manner illustrated on Plate No. 11. If the shoe is found to fit well everywhere, he will take the foot between his knees, and placing the shoe properly, drive the nails with great care, so that the shoe cannot get out of its proper place. When the nails are started he should hammer them home lightly, or according to the foot he is working on. The three nails on the inside and outside, toward the toe, should always be driven a little tighter than the heel nails, so as to prevent pressure on the heels. No man should be in a hurry in shoeing a horse, but should always be careful in fitting and driving the shoe as instructed.

A shoe should never be fitted tightly, unless the coffin-bone has too much play; then it should be fitted tight around the toe and each quarter, as far as the nail-holes extend back, in order to contract the foot, and bring the coffin-bone to its proper place. Such cases are, however, very rare.

The heels of the shoe should never be allowed to curve inward toward the frog, and the foot should be prepared so as to prevent any pressure from the shoe on the heel, in the manner shown by Plate No. 14, at the same time allowing the bearing of the shoe to be perfectly equal.

If the horse has a long foot it should be shortened on the toe as much as possible—the more the better—for the hoof grows out more quickly at the toe; and it is necessary, because in a case of this kind the coffin-bone is necessarily out of its proper position, and the operation of shortening the toe must be continued until it resumes its natural shape; but a close operation, and working the horse at the same time, is not recommended, because the foot can be brought to its proper shape by cutting gradually in time.

After the cutting has been performed, a shoe should be fitted so as to have the pressure on each quarter, and with heels, if the horse’s heels are naturally low, in order to prevent a sudden change.

A horse should be re-shod at least once a month.

PLATE NO. 3—_Paring out the Foot._—By reference to this plate it will be seen what a difference there exists between the system recommended and practiced by Mr. Dunbar, and the old style practiced and recommended by all authorities on the subject heretofore.

The bors should be _cut away entirely_, removing the pressure from the frog, and cutting out the heel. By this system of paring the foot a ground surface will always be left, commencing at the heel and expanding gradually, as illustrated by the plates “A” to “C;” the sides of the frog should never be cut, but the top should be cut down sufficiently to allow it to be clear of the ground after the shoe is fitted. The cleft of the frog should always be cleaned out thoroughly every time the shoe is renewed.

PLATES NOS. 4. AND 5—_Long Feet before and after Cutting._—A horse with a long foot, as will be easily seen, will suffer from an undue pressure on the heels (see article on Corns), causing corns, and in addition to that, if the foot is not shortened in time, it will cause the coffin-bone to lose its proper shape, but this can be remedied by shortening the toe every time the horse is shod, thus keeping the foot in its proper shape.

The common practice of fitting a shoe tight on the heels, to prevent interfering, is entirely wrong; an interfering horse does not strike with his heel, but with the inner side of the toe, not further back than the heel-nails, both hind and forward. To prevent this, the shoe should be fitted wider on the _inner_ than on the _outer_ heel. A horse that interferes should be carefully examined by the farrier before shoeing, who will notice particularly the shape of his feet. If the animal stands _inward_ and interferes, the _outside_ quarter should be cut down, and thus throw the foot level; and if he stands outward and interferes, the _inside_ quarter should be cut down for the same reason. After this a shoe should be fitted with no nails on the inner quarter, which should be _thickest_.

To prevent a horse traveling pigeon-toed is simply to pare off the inner quarter of the toe, and have the shoe fitted as above. By this operation the bearing will be level. This will apply also to a horse for light riding, and for a horse traveling between the shafts; but for the latter a good block heel on the outer, and a small one on the inner quarter of the shoe should be made; the toe also to be made thick in proportion, to make the bearing level.

PLATE NO. 10 is a representation of a perfectly healthy coffin-bone, with the upper and lower pastern and navicular bones front, and reverse sides. The system recommended by the author is intended to prevent any pressure whatever on the wings of the coffin-bone. Anything that prevents the perfectly free action of the coffin-bone will cause “navicular disease,” and “ossified cartilages.” After a foot is pared, as recommended in this, so as to be easily expanded, the wings of the coffin-bone, which are the widest part, should be protected by a wide shoe, and there should be no pressure whatever on the heels.

_CORNS._

The pressure of the bor on one side of the seat of the disease, and of the horny substance of a contracted heel on the other side, added to a tight shoe, causes inflammation, which, when it becomes chronic, is styled a _corn_.

A corn may be detected by paring the foot close. It is not necessary, as recommended by some authorities, to use pincers, squeezing the hoof all around to find the corn, thereby giving the horse unnecessary pain. They are to be found only in the heel, and do not result from bruises, but from pressure.

_Treatment._—The shoe having been removed, the inside of the hoof should be pared out thoroughly all around, and if a long hoof, it should be shortened. If the corn is visible, the heel should be pared down and the bors weakened, opening the heel as far back as possible (see Plate No. 11), and fitting an open shoe, so as to throw the pressure off the heel. The pressure having been removed, the corn will disappear, or grow down in the quarter, in which case the farrier should fit a bor shoe, so as to throw the weight off the diseased heel and partly on the frog, the elastic surface of which will prevent severe pressure.

If a horse has a long foot, the pressure is more on the corns, because his foot is in front of him, and an over-proportion of his weight comes on his heels. A horse with a long foot is like a man with a thick sole to his boot and no heels, for with his heels he strikes the ground first.

Every horse should have his feet well _under_ him, and not in _front_ of him. This fact should be taken into consideration when fitting the open shoe.

Inflammation should be reduced by placing a swab over the coronet, and using a hot poultice of linseed meal for the foot.

The pressure having been removed from a corn for a fortnight, it will be observed to have a light color, representing the color of a new corn, and if properly treated, it will gradually disappear, and be displaced by a healthy growth of foot.

The horse should be allowed at least a month in which to recover from his lameness; but it is not necessary to turn him out to grass, and care should be taken that his feet are closely attended to, having the shoes renewed about once in a fortnight.

_Contraction_ is the result of neglect, want of natural moisture, and tight shoeing. The result is lameness, if in one foot, and if in both feet, the loss of their free, natural use, causing short steps and stumbling. If the inner quarter is contracted, it is the cause, if not soon remedied, of quarter-crack. The practice of fitting a shoe so as to fit tighter on the inner than the outer quarter, to prevent interfering, renders it more liable to contraction.

The want of proper moisture causes the horn to shrink, and prevents the foot from expanding naturally. This should be remedied by soaking the feet, if feverish, in warm, and if healthy, in cold water, twice a day, an hour at each time. This moisture should be applied at least two hours before the horse is used. This will render the foot elastic, and prevent abuse from traveling over rough roads.

By reference to accompanying plate, No. 12, the difference will be observed between a natural and a contracted foot. The quarters growing toward each other in the contracted, cause the coffin-bone to lose its proper shape, and forcing the sensitive frog upwards from its proper place, causes scratches and thrush.

Treatment of contraction, briefly speaking, is _expansion_. The foot should be thoroughly prepared in the following manner: If the horse is lame, the farrier should shorten the toe, lower the foot all around, and open the heels back until the blood is drawn. The sole of the foot should be pared as closely as possible on each side of the frog, in the manner shown by the illustration on Plate No. 12, “natural foot.” The frog should be lowered, but the side should _not_ be cut. A groove should be made with a rasp just under and parallel with the coronet on each side (see Plate No. 14) deep enough to draw blood, then with a fine shoeing knife, cut little notches down from the cornet and across the groove at certain equal distances, as shown by illustration No. 14, the entire length of the groove. These notches should also be deep enough to draw blood. This will relieve the pressure caused by contraction from the cartilages on both sides, and allow them to resume their proper shape.

Having the foot ready for a shoe, a hand should be placed on each side of the foot, pressing it outward in the manner shown by Plate No, 15. The shoe must be very carefully fitted, and must have eight nail-holes, for the reason that it is the heel nails that relieve a horse while in contraction.

The shoe should be fitted so as to project at least a quarter of an inch on each side of the foot, so as to see the nail-holes projecting on each side of the outer and inner quarter. Having this accomplished, the bearing should be equal; the nails must be driven first toward the toe, then toward the heel, driving them half-way, and using the utmost care and skill; the higher the nails are driven the better. The shoe being fitted so wide, there is no fear of pricking.

The nails toward the heel should be driven by alternate taps on each side, because the foot expands on each side on account of being pared so thin on either side of the frog, the source of the expansion.

The heel nails should relieve the wings of the coffin-bone, which suffer most while in a state of contraction, and allow them to come back to their proper position.

Considerable soreness will result from this mode of treatment, which can be remedied by using thin poultices of linseed meal, applied as hot as possible, to be renewed at least once every two days for the period of two weeks. The foot should also be thoroughly soaked in a bucket of warm water for half an hour at each renewal of the poultice; this will remove all soreness, and prevent the foot from shrinking when exposed to the weather. The _expansion_ treatment should be continued gradually until the coffin-bone resumes its natural shape; when this is accomplished, the growing hoof will naturally accommodate itself to the bone.

The severe treatment recommended is necessary only in an aggravated case causing lameness. It can be so modified by cutting the hoof, and expanding the foot gradually, as to allow the horse to be used while under treatment, if he has not been disabled.

_QUARTER AND TOE-CRACKS._

Quarter-cracks are commonly found in feet of saddle horses, and are caused by contraction and pressure, and are also the result of a shoe being fitted tightly on the inner quarter, to prevent interfering, as stated in remarks on “Contraction.”

Most commonly found on the inner quarter; it commences at the coronet, extending downward, and when it extends through to the laminæ causes lameness, and is especially serious if the foot is contracted, as shown by Plate No. 16.

There are two kinds of quarter-cracks, as shown by plates Nos. 17 and 18—the _lateral_ and the _straight_ the latter being the most serious, if the separation commences at the coronet.

_Treatment._—If the foot is inclined to contract, it should be prepared as for contraction; shorten the toe and expand the foot, under the directions already given. If lameness has resulted, a bor shoe should be fitted, so as to remove all pressure from half an inch on each side of the crack, then with a rasp cut a groove under and parallel with the coronet, extending about half an inch on each side of the crack; with a shoeing knife cut some small notches on each side of the groove, after which the edges of the crack may be cut away. (See Plates Nos. 17 and 18.) If the foot bleeds freely so much the better. After this is done a firing-iron should be applied so as to cauterize the crack. This operation having been performed, the foot should be dressed with tar every morning for about three weeks. The pressure being removed, the new growth will commence at the coronet, and extend downward, as shown in Plate No. 19, until a permanent cure is effected.

Toe-crack, more common to heavy and draught horses, is caused by want of room; the space inside the wall of the foot not being large enough to accommodate the laminæ, it causes inflammation, and breaks out at the weakest point, which is the coronet, and extends downward to the toe, causing the foot to assume the appearance of a cloven foot. (See Plate No. 20.)

_Treatment._—Shorten the toe as much as possible, and then pare the sole of the foot until it will yield to the pressure of the thumb. No pressure should be allowed within half an inch on each side of the crack on the toe, for the reason that the pressure on the toe prevents the coronet from uniting. Having prepared the sole of the foot, a fine shoeing knife should be used to remove the horn that is inclined to grow inward on each side of the crack, after which a groove under the coronet, extending on each side of the crack, will be made, and the notches on each side of the groove as already directed. A firing-iron should be applied to cauterize the crack from the coronet downward. Then the crack should be cut away in the center, so as to allow the use of an “expansion plate,” as shown in Plate No. 21. This expansion plate can be made of brass or steel. It is composed of four pieces, as follows: A plate divided in the center into two equal parts, A and B (see Plate No. 21), and a thread cut in the center. Each part is made so as to fit dove-tailed into the crack, held in place with a screw C, and a burr D, underneath, to prevent the screw from pressing the laminæ of the foot. The screw, which has considerable power as a lever, forces the two plates apart, lifts up the wall of the foot which is pressing each side of the crack, and presses it outward. This being done, an open shoe should be fitted, wider than the foot, so as to expand it, which, together with the notches cut in the groove under the coronet, will cause a new and strong growth from each side of the crack, commencing at the coronet and extending downward.

The length of time required to effect a removal of the crack depends on the treatment and skill of the operator. If the foot is expanded by the plate with skill, and the nails in the shoe driven so as to prevent the wall of the foot from closing in on the crack, the plate may be removed at once; otherwise it should remain stationary, which can be done by substituting the small screw E, which will not prevent the horse from being used while under treatment. The use of the expansion plate is not necessary, unless the crack extends the whole length of the hoof. The crack extending from the coronet, partly down the front of the foot, should be treated at once, removing pressure by shortening the toe and expanding the foot, as already instructed; then, by means of the groove and notches, promote a new growth at the coronet.

_THRUSH._

Is a disease of the frog, most common to a foot which is hoof-bound or contracted, but all horses’ feet are subject to it when they are neglected. The frog, pressed on each side by the bors of the foot, and from the overgrowth of the hoof, becomes inflamed, and the result is _thrush_. (See Plate No. 22.)

_Treatment if the Hoof is Hoof-bound._—The farrier, after removing the shoe, should use his rasp, and lower the wall of the foot all around from heel to heel; then, by the free use of the knife, pare the foot to its natural size. Also pare around the frog until the sole of the foot yields to the pressure of the thumb, then open the heels and remove the pegs that grow on each side of the heels. All this should be done before a knife is used on the frog. After all pressure is removed by this paring operation, the condition of the frog will show how it was affected by pressure on each side.

Next, by the use of the knife, cut a slice off the top of the frog, and carefully clean out the cleft, which suffers most on account of the direct pressure of the bors on each side of the frog. After this cleaning operation is performed, a warm poultice of flaxseed meal should be applied two or three times, according to the condition of the foot. When the poultice is removed, the foot should be washed out occasionally with castile soap and warm water, after which a little salt, ground into fine powder, should be forced into the cleft, and kept in by a mixture of tar and oakum as a dressing, after which an open shoe should be fitted so as to expand the foot gradually. This treatment should be pursued until a permanent cure is effected.

If the foot is in a state of contraction, it should be expanded under the instructions already given. By this expansion all pressure is removed, and a permanent cure is easily effected by following the instructions already given.

No liquid remedies, such as butter of antimony, or chloride of zinc, should be used, as they dry up the foot before the inflammation is removed.

By reference to Plate No. 22 a good idea may be obtained of the manner of paring out a hoof suffering from thrush.

_PUMICE FOOT._

(See Plate No. 23) should always be pared out on each side of the frog until it yields to the pressure of the thumb. This paring should, however, be done immediately around the frog, leaving more than the usual ground surface (see plate After Treatment). The toe should be shortened as much as possible, and the heels cut out back. If the horse is lame a bor shoe is the best to protect the foot, with a leather sole, and some spirits of tar as a moisture. This shoe should be renewed at least once a month, with a leather sole, until a cure is effected.

_HOOF-BOUND._

(Plate No. 24.) A horse that is hoof-bound is deprived of his free action, and resembles a horse that is foundered.

_Treatment._—The foot should be pared out thoroughly, and on each side of the frog, until it yields to the pressure of the thumb. Open the heels and remove the bors that press the frog on each side, and cause the animal much pain.

The toe should be shortened, and if the foot is inclined to contraction, the shoe should be fitted wider than the foot, which, if done properly, will expand the foot (see article Contraction). The shoe should be a good, heavy, open one, well eased off at the heels. Having the foot prepared, the operation should next be performed around the coronet, as follows: If the cartilages are hard, as they are generally from being pressed upwards, a groove should be made with a rasp immediately under the coronet, and extending all the way across from heel to heel, deep enough to draw blood. Next, with a fine knife cut notches across the groove at equal distances the whole length of the groove, and extending from the coronet downward.

By this operation, illustrated on Plate No. 24, the pressure is removed from the cartilages. After this a poultice of linseed meal should be applied around the coronet, which loosens all pressure and starts a new growth.

If the horse is lame from this disease the close cutting operation should be performed and the poultice applied one week; otherwise the operation need not be so severe.

PLATES NOS. 25, 26, 27—_Illustrations of Overgrowth of Hoof and Neglect before and after Treatment._—The illustration, “Before Treatment,” Plate No, 25, represents the ground surface of a foot operated upon, and “After Treatment” represents the same foot after one pound of overgrowth had been removed from one foot. Plates Nos. 26 and 27 show the difference between the foot before and after treatment, and show the importance of being careful in observing a horse’s foot so as to prevent lameness, and the various diseases caused by neglect.

PLATES NOS. 28 AND 29—_Enlargement of the Metacarpal Bone._—In a great many cases because the enlargement interferes with the free use of the flexor tendon, pressing it out of its proper place. A horse with a contracted foot suffers from this pressure when the shoe is fitted tight and brings the heels inward. The metacarpal bones extend from the back of the knee downward to the pastern joint, forming, as it were, a brace on each side. They become quite small as they extend downward, and the enlargement is generally found on the inside of the leg. (See Plate No. 28.)

The enlargement may be discovered by running the hand downward from the knee, the thumb on the side and the forefinger on the other, until it is felt (see Plate 29, “A”). If pressed and the horse yields to the pressure, it is a sure sign that he is affected, and he should be properly shod at once as if for contraction, or the enlargement should be removed. To do this, the horse should be in the following position: First, with plenty of straw under him to prevent bruising; then he should be thrown on his side and fastened down, so as to allow the operator to make an incision with a fine pocket knife partly to the front and near where the enlargement is. This operation will not interfere with the tendons, or veins that extend upward from the foot. The incision having been made, the finger may be inserted, as shown in Plate No. 29, “B,” so as to raise the enlargement and make it visible. Then, with a pair of nippers, snap the end off with one motion. The incision should be closed, fastened together with a needle and silk thread; then apply a linen bandage and over this a woolen cloth, containing a little moisture, to prevent fever. A little sweet oil should be applied, to keep it clean while healing. The operation is not severe and is thoroughly effective.

PLATES NOS. 30 AND 31 represent a foot which has been deprived of the free use of the back tendons, caused by a sudden jar or misstep, causing a horse so affected to travel on his toe, and can be remedied only by a system of expanding the foot under the directions already given for contraction.

After this a shoe should be fitted with a toe and no heels, for by raising the toe the bearing is thrown on the heels. If the action is heavy on the toe, the shoe should be provided with a steel toe-calk. This will prevent a horse from traveling on his toe, and such a case, if taken in time, can be remedied, if not permanently cured, by simply fitting a shoe so as to throw the bearing on the heels.

PLATES NOS. 30 AND 31 represent an aggravated case, which from neglect became incurable.

PLATE NO. 32 represents the exterior surface of the sensitive frog. The great principle of this system of paring the horse’s feet, is to remove all pressure from the frog. It should be protected from all pressure, and such diseases as thrush and scratches may be avoided.

PLATE NO. 33 gives a sectional view of all the bones and tendons of the horse’s foot. Every blacksmith and farrier should thoroughly understand this and the anatomy of the horse’s foot, in order to be able to know exactly how to treat any disease which may be brought to their notice.

RECIPES.

The following recipes have been gathered from souses entitled to the fullest confidence, as remedies of value to all owners of horses, and are presented with the hope of doing good:

_INFLUENZA._

For several years past a disease has been more or less prevalent in various sections of this country, known to the Veterinary as epidemic catarrh or influenza. The symptoms of this disease are so various in different animals—no two being precisely alike—that a variety of opinions are current concerning it and its nature; and, as a consequence, various other diseases are often confounded with it. The usual or leading symptoms are a slight watery or mucous discharge from the nose; eyelids presenting a reddish appearance; matter collects in the corner of the eyes; pulse feeble; great debility, as shown by the quick, feeble action of the heart—a symptom rarely absent; membrane of nose much reddened; sore throat and cough; occasionally the feet become fevered as in founder, causing much stiffness, and might be easily taken for that disease.

_Treatment._—This being a typhoid disease, it requires a sustaining treatment, or success will be very doubtful. In the early stage of this disease, give the first two days ten drops of tincture of aconite, or bryonia, in a little water, every six hours; after which give a pail of water to drink, and, once a day, 1 oz. spirits of nitre, or 2 drams extract of belladonna; and give in the feed, three times a day, one of the following powders: gentian root, saltpetre, and anise seed, of each 1 oz.; sulphate of quinine, 1 dram; mix, and divide into eight powders. The throat should be bathed with mustard and vinegar; or with linseed oil, 3 oz., spirits of hartshorn, 1 oz. Mix together. No hay or corn should be given, but scalded oats or wheat bran, with linseed tea, or oatmeal gruel, should constitute the diet. I would recommend a few carrots. But above all, good nursing is to be desired, and by strictly following the foregoing instructions a successful result is probable.

_CONDITION POWDER._

Fenugreek, cream of tartar, gentian, sulphur, saltpetre, resin, black antimony, and ginger, of each 1 oz.; cayenne ½ oz.; all finely pulverized. Mix thoroughly. It is used for yellow water, hide bound, colds, coughs, distemper, and all other diseases where a condition powder is needed. They carry off gross humors, and purify the blood.

_Dose._—In ordinary cases one tablespoonful once a day. In extreme cases give twice daily. This powder has never failed to give entire satisfaction.

_GLANDERS._

This is one of the most fatal diseases to which the horse is subject. It is propagated in most cases by contagion, the infection being disseminated by seed from the nasal discharge, not, as many suppose, by the breath. According to eminent foreign authors, the disease has its origin also in a vitiated state of the blood, and this may result from improper treatment or neglect of almost any disease to which he is liable. In its early stage it appears to be only a slight inflammation of the inner membrane of the nose, not, however, attended with the usual florid red characterizing inflammation, but of a paler hue, and afterwards becoming darker. The first marked symptom is a discharge from the nose, scarcely to be distinguished at first from the natural moisture, either by its color or consistence, and generally coming from one nostril only, and that the left one. In appearance it is thin and transparent, closely resembling the natural discharge, a little increased in quantity, and sometimes continues in this doubtful stage for several weeks or months. Instances are indeed known where it has existed for several years before it became fully developed. In such cases it is attended with no loss of appetite, no cough, or apparent illness of any kind, with little enlargement of the glands under the jaw, and at the same time the horse is capable of communicating disease.

Too many of these horses, with a decided glanderous discharge from the nose and adherent glands under the jaw, are found on our roads, or are employed in agriculture, which (although they are otherwise in good health, and perform their work well) should not be permitted; for by such means the contagion is widely spread. No cough accompanies real glanders in any of its stages, except the last, which is usually soon cut short by death.

In addition to the preceding tokens for discovering at an early period the true glanders from other disorders, let the nostrils be closely examined. In the real glanders, the left or running nostril will be found of a deeper color than ordinary, while the other, or dry nostril, is of a paler color, or almost white.

The reader must bear in mind the varied color of the nostril in deciding all cases of this character. Also that in colds, etc., both nostrils run.

Before the disease finishes its course, both sides of the nose and head become affected—the ulcers extend down the windpipe, and fasten upon the lungs. The virus, secreted by and discharged from the ulcers, is absorbed and carried through the whole system, and soon puts an end to the creature’s miserable existence. The best preventives of glanders are dry, clean, well-ventilated stables, moderate exercise, green food, when it can be procured, and roots in the winter.

The disease may be cured in its early stages, or before ulcers are formed in the nose, or the lumps under the jaw adhere to the bone, by turning the animal on a dry pasture, by proper attention to the bowels, and by use of alterative medicines, to work the poisons out of the system. Should the bowels require loosening, give the common purge. For purifying the blood, the condition powder is the most effectual remedy. The owner must beware of putting the horse to hard labor too soon, after having been turned out as before directed, as the disease is liable to return on subsequent confinement, even after the running at the nose has entirely disappeared. It is conceded by all, that when this disease is once seated, it cannot be cured; and humanity dictates, and economy should prompt us to terminate the animal’s existence at once. This course has now become an imperative duty, as the fact is established that man is susceptible to the contagion; and there are numerous cases on record where those who have had the care of glandered horses have fallen victims to this disease.

_LOCK JAW._

This disease generally arises from nail wounds in the feet, or from sharp metallic substances taken into and wounding the stomach or intestines. The first symptoms of the disease are observed about the ninth or tenth day after the injury is done, which are a straggling or stiffness of the hind-legs, to which succeed in a few days the following: on elevating the head, a spasmodic motion of the membrane in the inner corner of the eye will be observed, showing little more than the white of the eye; the muscles of the jaws become rigid; the tongue is swollen, and the mouth is filled with saliva; the ears are erect, and the nose poked out; the nostrils expand; respiration becomes much disturbed; and finally, the jaws become firmly set, and the bowels constipated.

_Treatment._—Tinct. of aconite, 2 drs.; tinct. of belladonna, 2 drs.; water, ½ oz. Mix, and give 40 drops every 4 hours on the tongue; keep a ball of aloes in the mouth for several days. There is no fear of giving too much. I have known half a pound to be given in a few days with good success. Hydrocyandic acid, 20 drops in a little water, and put upon the tongue every four hours, is an excellent remedy. Foment the jaws with bags of hops steeped in hot water, and bathe the line of the back from the pole to the croup with mustard and vinegar. Be careful not to allow the animal to be unnecessarily excited by noises and confusion about him. Go about him quietly; keep a pail of bran slop before him all the time. If the foot has been injured, poultice with flaxseed meal, and keep the wound open until a healthy action has been established.

_TO DISTINGUISH BETWEEN DISTEMPER AND GLANDERS._

The discharge from the nose in Glanders will sink in water. In Distemper it will not.

_CHRONIC COUGH._

This is generally the consequence of neglected catarrhal affections, worms, etc. For treatment, give twice each day Barbadoes aloes, 2 oz.; pulv. foxglove (or digitalis), 1 oz.; linseed meal, 13 oz. Mix with molasses. Dose, 1 oz.

Another remedy is, sal ammoniac, 1 oz.; squills, pulv., ½ oz.; aloes, pulv., 1 oz.; linseed meal, 16 oz.; mix with molasses, and divide into four balls; to be given one each night for four days.

_TREATMENT FOR RHEUMATISM._

Poultice the feet with mustard and flaxseed meal. Give internally of nux vomica, 1 oz.; pulv. gentian root, 1½ oz.; pulverized ginger, 1 oz. Mix and divide into 12 powders; give one every night in the feed, keep the body warm, and give no corn.

_FOUNDER REMEDY._

Give from 1 to 4 ounces of saltpetre, according to the severity of the case. For a severe case, draw about one gallon of blood from the neck; then drench with linseed oil, 1 quart; rub the fore-legs with water as hot as can be borne without scalding, continuing the washing till the horse is perfectly limber.

_HORSE OINTMENT._

Resin, 4 oz.; beeswax, 4 oz.; honey, 2 oz.; lard, 8 oz.; melt these articles slowly, bringing gradually to a boil; remove from the fire, and slowly add a little less than a pint of spirits of turpentine, stirring all the time this is being added, and stir till cool. This is an extraordinary ointment for bruises of the flesh, or hoof, or broken knees, galls or bites, or when a horse is gelded to heal and keep off flies.

_MAGIC LINIMENT._

Take 2 oz. oil of spike; 2 oz. origanum; 2 oz. hemlock; 2 oz. wormwood; 4 ounces sweet oil; 2 oz. spirits ammonia; 2 ounces gum camphor; 2 oz. spirits turpentine; 1 quart proof spirits. Mix well and bottle for use. Cork tight. For sprains, bruises, or lameness of any kind, this liniment is unsurpassed. This is the same liniment, leaving out the turpentine, which has achieved so many wonderful cures for human ailment.

A more simple liniment can be made by putting into spirits of turpentine all the gum camphor it will cut. For ordinary purposes it is fit for use; but if you wish to reduce pain, add as much laudanum as there is turpentine.

_FRENCH PASTE FOR BONE SPAVIN._

Corrosive sublimate, quicksilver, and iodine, of each 1 oz., with sufficient lard to form a paste. Rub the quicksilver and iodine together, and add the sublimate, and finally add the lard, rubbing thoroughly. Shave off the hair the size of the bone enlargement, then grease all around it, but not where the bone is shaved off. This prevents the action of the medicine only upon the spavin; rub in as much of the paste as will lie on a five cent piece, each morning for four mornings only, and in from six to eight days the spavin will come out; then wash out the wound with suds, soaking well for an hour or two, which removes the poisonous effects of the medicine, and facilitates the healing, which can be done by any healing salve. I prefer the horse ointment to any other.

_HOW TO CLEAN AND OIL HARNESS._

First take the harness apart, having each strap and piece by itself; then wash it with warm water and Castile soap. When cleansed, black each part with the following dye: 1 oz. extract of logwood; 12 grains bichromate of potash—both pounded fine; put into two quarts of boiling rain-water, and stir till all is dissolved. When cool, it may be used. It may be bottled and kept for future use, if desired. It may be applied with a shoe brush. When the dye has struck in, you may oil each part with neatsfoot oil, applied with a paint brush. For second oiling, use one-third castor oil and two-thirds neat’s-foot oil, mixed. A few hours after, wipe clean with a woolen cloth, which gives the harness a glossy appearance. This preparation does not injure the leather or stitching, but makes it soft and pliable, and obviates the necessity of oiling as often as is necessary by the ordinary method. When the harness is removed from the horse, take a woolen cloth or chamois skin, kept for the purpose, and wipe off the dust and all moisture from rain or perspiration, and when the harness is nearly dry, rub the damper parts very thoroughly with a second cloth or skin, until they are quite soft and pliable.

The bits, and plated mountings, should be cleaned and rubbed with a slightly-oiled rag, before the harness is finally hung in its place; the harness should be protected from dust either by a covering of cloth, or by hanging in a closet. Whenever the leather becomes dry and hard, it should be cleaned and oiled according to the foregoing directions.

_PHYSIC BALL._

Barbadoes aloes, 1 lb.; syrup buckthorn, 3 oz.; cod-liver oil, 3 oz. Melt the whole, and stir till cool. In winter, add a little water, make into 18 pills, and give 1 every four hours, or as much as will move the bowels.

_TO SCATTER POLL-EVIL._

Take a quantity of mandrake root, bruise and boil it, strain and boil down until rather thick; then form an ointment, simmering with sufficient lard for the purpose. Anoint the swelling once a day until cured. It has cured them after they were broken out, by putting it in the pipes a few times; also, anointing around the sore.

_HEALING SALVE FOR ABRASIONS AND CUTS._

Oxide of zinc, 4 drams; fresh lard, 1 oz.; carbolic acid, 6 grains. Melt the lard, and stir in the oxide of zinc, which must be very finely powdered; add the carbolic acid and mix thoroughly. Apply twice a day to the wound. This salve is very valuable for its healing properties, and will be found of special service, if there is any foul discharge.

_WASH FOR FOUL ULCERS._

Permanganate of potassa, 1 dram; pure water, 6 fluid ounces. Clean the sore once or twice a day, with a quart of water, to which a large tablespoonful of the wash has been added, using a soft sponge.

The discoloration of the solution indicates its complete loss of power as a disinfectant.

The bottle must be kept tightly corked, as impurities in the air will, in time, impair its value.

_ANTISPASMODIC TINCTURE._

(_For Man or Beast._)

Oils of cajeput, cloves, peppermint, anise, of each 1 oz.; of alcohol, 1 quart. Mix together, and bottle for use. Dose, for horse, 1 oz. every 15 minutes, in a little whisky and warm water, sweetened with molasses. Continue till relieved.

Dose for man, one teaspoonful.

RECORD OF FAST HORSES FOR 1875.

The author of this work would not have the reader imagine that he is known to the popular world as a sporting man, but believing his book will come into the hands of not only lovers of the noble animal as a beast of burden, and highly prized by the honest yeomanry of this continent, but into the hands also of those who admire more for qualities of speed, as exhibited on the turf, deems it advisable to gratify the appetite of all who appreciate fast trotting, by devoting a corner to record the driving of all horses having a public record of 2.30, or better. Considerable trouble and expense has attended the research, and it embraces a complete list of horses that have shown on the turf since 1870, compiled in the most accurate manner, and alphabetically arranged.

Abdallah, b. s. 2.30 Adelaide, b. m. 2.22½ Ajax, b. s. 2.29 Albert, blk. g. 2.24¾ Albion Boy, b. g. 2.30 Alice, b. m. 2.25 Allie West, blk. s. 2.25 Alton Boy 2.29½ [2]American Girl, b. m. 2.16½ Amy, b. m. 2.22¼ Amy B, b. m. 2.30 Annie Collins, b. m. 2.26 Arthur, blk. g. 2.28¼ Aurora, s. m. 2.27 Baby Boy, wh. g. 2.30 Badger Girl, g. m. 2.25½ Barney Kelley, b. g. 2.26¼ Bashaw, Jr. 2.25 Bashaw Maid, ch. m. 2.30 Basil Duke, cr. g. 2.28½ Bateman, b. g. 2.27 Bay Henry, b. g. 2.30 Bay Jack 2.30 Bay Sallie, b. m. 2.30 Bay Whalebone, b. g. 2.26¼ Bella, b. m. 2.22 Belle, b. m. 2.28¼ Belle Brasfield, b. m. 2.25¼ Belle Deane, blk. m. 2.30 Belle of Toronto, g. m. 2.28½ Ben Cummings, ch. s. 2.26 Ben Flagler, g. g. 2.26½ Ben Morrill, br. s. 2.28 Ben Smith, b. g. 2.28½ Ben Star, b. g. 2.24¾ Beppo, or J. W. Conley, b. g. 2.24½ Bertie, g. m. 2.27 Billy Hoskins, g. g. 2.26¼ Billy Lambertson, b. g. 2.28¼ Billy Platter, g. g. 2.26 Black Bird, blk. s. 2.22 Black George, blk. s. 2.23¾ Black Mack, blk. g. 2.26½ Black Swan, blk. m. 2.28½ Blanche, blk. m. 2.23½ Bodine, b. g. 2.19¼ Bonner, ch. g. 2.23 Breeze, b. g. 2.25½ Bristol Bill, g. g. 2.29 Bro. Jonathan, b. g. 2.24¼ Brown Dick, br. s. 2.24½ Brown Jack, br. g. 2.28½ Bully Brooks, b. g. 2.30 Buzz, br. g. 2.28½ Byron, s. s. 2.25½ Caledonia Chief, ch. s. 2.29½ California Dexter, b. g. 2.27 Calmar, b. g. 2.30 [2]Camors, blk. g. 2.19¾ Capitola, b. m. 2.29½ Captain, b. s. 2.28 Captain Jinks, s. g. 2.30 Carrie, b. m. 2.24½ Castle Boy, b. g. 2.21 Catskill Girl, b. m. 2.28½ Cattaraugus Chief, b. g. 2.29½ Chas. E. Loew, blk. s. 2.25½ Chas. Hinson, g. g. 2.28 Charlie Green, b. g. 2.26¼ Clara G., b. m. 2.26 Clarence, ch. g. 2.27½ Clementine, b. m. 2.21 Colbourne, dun. g. 2.30 Col. Barnes, ch. g. 2.28½ Col. Moulton, ch. s. 2.28½ Col. Russell, b. g. 2.25¾ Col. Pike, b. g. 2.29½ Comee, b. g. 2.24½ Commodore, b. g. 2.25 Commonwealth, br. s. 2.24½ Cozette, blk. m. 2.23 Crown Prince, wh. g. 2.25 Dan, br. g. 2.28½ Daniel Boone, g. g. 2.28¾ Dan Voorhies 2.26 Defiance, blk. s. 2.29½ Defiance, br. g. 2.24¼ Delhi, b. g. 2.29½ Denmark, br. g. 2.30 Derby, b. g. 2.25½ Dick Jamison, b. g. 2.26 Dinah, rn. m. 2.30 Doble, blk. s. 2.28 Dolly, b. m. 2.30 Don Elipha (buckskin mustang) 2.30 Dot, b. g. 2.29¾ Doubtful, g. g. 2.29½ Draco Prince, blk. s. 2.24½ Dreadnaught, ch. g. 2.27½ Duchess, b. m. 2.28 Duke, b. g. 2.26½ Dutchman, b. g. 2.30 Ella Wilson, b. m. 2.30 Ella Lewis, br. m. 2.27 Eva, b. m. 2.25¼ Ella Madden, b. m. 2.26¾ Ella Wright, b. m. 2.24¾ Everett Ray, b. g. 2.25 Edginton 2.26 Ed. White, p. g. 2.27 Easton Boy, wh. g. 2.25½ Ella Elwood, b. m. 2.29 Elmo, ch. s. 2.27 Fleetwood, ch. g. 2.29 Frank Wood, b. g. 2.24 Frank, br. m. 2.27¼ Factory Girl, b. m. 2.29¼ Flora Bell, b. m. 2.22¾ Flora Bell, ch. m. 2.30 Frank Palmer, b. g. 2.26¼ Fannie, ch. m. 2.29 Frank J., dun. g. 2.23¾ Frank Davis, 2.30 Frank Munson, 2.30 Frank Reeves, 2.30 Fox, b. g. 2.30 Fred Hooper, b. g. 2.23 Fleety Golddust, g. m. 2.20 Filbert, g. g. 2.28 Fanny Otis, b. m. 2.28¾ Falmouth Boy, b. g. 2.29½ Frank Ferguson, br. g. 2.27 Flora Shepard, b. m. 2.30 George Miller, b. g. 2.30 Gray Jack, g. g. 2.28¼ Glengarry, b. g. 2.27 George Treat, 2.28½ George M. Patchen, 2.23½ Gray Alex, g. g. 2.28¾ Gazelle, b. m. 2.21 Grace, b. m. 2.27¼ Goldsmith Maid, b. m. 2.14 George, b. g. 2.24½ Gen. Sherman, g. g. 2.28¾ Gold Leaf, s. g. 2.28¼ Gen. Grant, s. s. 2.20 Granville, ch. g. 2.29 Governor, b. g. 2.30 Gen. Howard, br. g. 2.30 [2]Gloster, b. g. 2.17 Geo. B. Daniels, s. g. 2.24 Grafton, ch. g. 2.22¼ Gen. Picton, g. g. 2.30 Gen. Love, s. s. 2.30 Gray Chief, g. g. 2.26½ Great Eastern, br. g. 2.28¾ Gen. Garfield, b. g. 2.21 Gray Eddy, g. g. 2.27 Gov. Sprague, blk. s. (4 years, public trial, 1 mile) 2.21¼ Grace Bertram, ch. m. 2.29 Grand Duchess, b. m. 2.26½ Henry, b. g. 2.20¼ Hannah D., b. m. 2.27½ Harry Mitchel, b. g. 2.28¼ H. C. Hill, br. g. 2.25½ Honesty, b. s. 2.26 Huntress, b. m. 2.21¼ Hattie, ch. m. 2.30 Hopeful, g. g. 2.17¼ Hotspur, b. g. 2.23¾ Hamperion, br. s. 2.29½ H. W. Genet, b. s. 2.25½ Huckleberry, b. g. 2.26½ Herod, br. g. 2.29 Hope, s. g. 2.28 Haviland, b. g. 2.29½ Honest Harry, m. g. 2.25 Honest Dutchman, 2.26½ Harry Harley, b. g. 2.25¾ Harvest Queen, b. m. 2.29½ Hal. Terrel, b. g. 2.28¾ Idol, ch. m. 2.27¼ Idol, b. m. 2.23 J. N. Mansua, b. g. 2.29½ Joe Udell, b. g. 2.30 John Stuart, b. g. 2.30 Joe Brown, g. s. 2.26½ Jerome, ch. g. 2.28½ Jas. Howell, Jr. 2.24 Jubilee Lambert, br. s. 2.25 Judge Fullerton, ch. g. 2.18 Joker, b. g. 2.23 Jennie, b. m. 2.22½ John H., b. g. 2.23 Jim Irving, b. g. 2.23 Jack Draper, g. g. 2.29 John W. Hall, ch. g. 2.25 Joe Green, b. s. 2.29½ John T. Rich, b. s. 2.28 John C. Fero, br. g. 2.27½ John Morrissey, ch. g. 2.26½ J. J. Bradley, b. g. 2.25½ [2]J. H. Burke, blk. g. 2.27½ J. D. McMann, b. g. 2.28¾ Jackson, b. s. 2.27¾ Joe, or Triumph, s. g. 2.25¼ John E., b. g. 2.28¾ Jay Gould, b. s. 2.20½ J. G. Blaine, blk. g. 2.28¼ Joe Coburn, 2.30 Judge Robertson, b. g. 2.29 John T., br. g. (fraud same as Huckleberry), 2.29½ [2]Kilburn Jim, b. s. 2.23 Ki-Ki, b. g. 2.28 Kittie D., b. m. 2.26¼ Kansas Chief, b. g. 2.21½ Kate Campbell, br. m. 2.25½ Kittie Cook, br. m. 2.29½ Kate Bennett, rn. m. 2.29¼ Lady Blanchard, g. m. 2.26¼ Lady Garfield, b. m. 2.29½ Lady Hughes, b. m. 2.30 [2]Lady Hamilton, b. m. 2.30 Lydia Thompson, b. m. 2.26¼ Little Longfellow, s. g. 2.29¼ License, ch. g. 2.26½ Lothair, blk. s. 2.29½ Lothair, br. g. (fraud same as Small Hope), 2.28¼ Little Gipsy, b. m. 2.28 Lew Ives, b. g. 2.28 Lady Mack, b. m. 2.25 Logan, s. s. 2.28 Lucille Golddust, b. m. 2.19½ Lady Dahlman, br. m. 2.28 Lizzie Keller, br. m. 2.30 Lady Thompson, 2.28 Lady Star, br. m. 2.24¼ Little Mack, br. s. 2.28½ Lady Griswold, g. m. 2.29 Lewinski, b. g. 2.26¾ Lady Emma, ch. m. 2.28 Lady Star, 2.25 Little Fred, b. g. 2.25 Lady Blanche, b. m. 2.28¼ Lady Turpin, blk. m. 2.23 Lottery, g. g. 2.27 Lulu, b. m. 2.14¾ Lady Williams, ch. m. 2.28½ Lady Banker, b. m. 2.23 Lady Snell, b. m. 2.23¼ Lida Picton, br. m. 2.27½ Lady Stout, ch. m. 2.29 Lew Scott, b. g. 2.30 Lady Elgin, g. m. 2.27¾ Lillie Shields, s. m. 2.29½ Lady Byron, blk. m. 2.28 Lady H., g. m. 2.30 Lady Maud, b. m. 2.18¼ Lady Ross, b. m. 2.29¾ Major Edsall, b. s. 2.29 Major Allen, s. g. 2.24¼ Mat. Smith, b. s. 2.26½ Mountain Boy, b. g. 2.20¾ Myron Perry, b. g. 2.24½ Mollie Morris, ch. m. 2.22 Mila Caldwell, s. m. 2.26½ Mack, g. g. 2.28 Mary A. Whitney, b. m. 2.28 May Howard, g. m. 2.24½ Molsey, b. m. 2.21¾ Mary Davis, b. m. 2.26¼ Music, ch. m. 2.21¾ Mollie, b. m. 2.28¾ Mystic, b. g. 2.22 Maud, b. m. 2.29¾ Medoc, g. g. 2.28½ Mambrino Star, b. g. 2.28½ Mambrino Gift, br. s. 2.20 Monarch, Jr., rn. s. 2.25½ Monroe, ch. s. 2.28½ Mac, br. g. 2.27¾ Magnolia, g. g. 2.26¼ Major Root, br. g. 2.27 Major King, s. g. 2.30 May Queen, b. m. 2.20 May Bird, blk. m. 2.27 Maggie Briggs, b. m. 2.27 Moscow, blk. g. 2.28¾ Mazoumanie, ch. g. 2.27¼ Mohawk, Jr., b. s. 2.25 Mary, b. m. 2.28 Newberlin Girl, b. m. 2.29½ None Such, s. m. 2.25½ Natchez, blk. g. 2.30 Nellie Gray, 2.24 Nellie Irwin, b. m. 2.25 Nick, br. g. 2.29¾ Nettie, b. m. 2.18 Nino, b. g. 2.29¾ Ned Forrest, blk g. 2.28½ Nellie, g. m. 2.30 Nellie Walton, b. m. 2.26 North Star Mambrino, 2.26½ Nettie Burlew, b. m. 2.25½ Nerea, s. m. 2.23½ Ned Wallace, b. s. 2.29 Ohio Boy, b. g. 2.27¼ Observer, ch. g. 2.24¼ Orient, s. g. 2.24 Oakland Maid, g. m. 2.26 Occident, br. g. 2.16¾ Prince Allen, ch. s. 2.26½ Patchen Chief, blk. s. 2.25½ Pownall Mare, br. m. 2.29 Pat Ring, 2.28 Polly, or Tackney 2.26 Phil Sheridan, blk. s. 2.26½ Pilot Temple, b. s. 2.24½ Parkis’ Abdallah, b. s. 2.26¾ Prince, rn. g. 2.28 Preston, dun. g. 2.28½ Planter, 2.30 Prospero, 2.22½ Pumpkin, 2.27½ Queen of the West, 2.26¼ Royal John, g. g. 2.27½ Red Dick, ch. g. 2.28 Rolla Golddust, b. g. 2.25 Rhode Island, br. s. 2.23½ [2]Ripon Boy, b. s. 2.25¾ Rosalind, b. m. 2.21¾ Ross, sp. g. 2.29¾ Rex Patchen, b. s. 2.30 Randall, ch. g. 2.24½ Red Cloud, b. g. 2.18 Rattler, b. g. 2.27 Royal George, g. g. 2.26½ Rosewood, br. m. 2.27 Rarus, b. g. 2.20¾ Rival, g. s. 2.30 Rutledge, b. g. 2.30 St. Elmo, g. g. 2.29¼ Sleepy John, b. g. 2.24½ Shakespeare, ch. s. 2.30 Susie Parker, b. m. 2.27½ Sentinel, b. s. 2.29½ Skinkel’s Hambletonian, b. s. 2.28¾ St. James, b. g. 2.23¼ Sam Purdy, b. g. 2.23¼ Spotted Colt, sp. g. 2.25½ Stump Puller, or Columbia Chief, blk. s. 2.30 Shepard Knapp, Jr., b. g. 2.27¾ Sisson Girl, blk. m. 2.28½ Star, s. g. 2.30 Snowball, wh. g. 2.27½ Scotland Maid, b. m. 2.28½ Silver Side, g. g. 2.30 Stewart Maloney, b. g. 2.27 Surprise, g. g. 2.26 Sam West, b. g. 2.29 Star of the West, bk. s. 2.26½ Smuggler, b. s. 2.20 Susie, s. m. 2.25 Sleepy Tom, b. g. 2.30 Simon, ch. g. 2.30 Snowflake, g. m. 2.22 Sir Wm. Wallace, b. s. 2.27¾ Swallow, b. m. 2.30 Sea Foam, g. m. 2.24½ Sunbeam, b. m. 2.30 San Bruno, br. g. 2.25¼ Silas Rich, s. s. 2.28 Sconchin, 2.25¼ Sensation, 2.24½ Sorrel Frank, 2.28¾ Sucker State, 2.28¼ St. Julien, b. s. 2.22½ Sciota Belle, br. m. 2.28 Tennessee, br. m. 2.27 Tanner Boy, g. g. 2.27 Twilight, wh. m. 2.27¾ Tom Wonder, br. g. 2.29 Tom Hendricks, 2.30 Thos. L. Young, ch. g. 2.19½ Tom Keeler, b. g. 2.26 Thos. Jefferson, blk. s. 2.23 Tom Britton, br. g. 2.27½ Tom Walter, s. g. 2.29 Tom Moore, b. g. 2.28 T. A., b. g. 2.28 Tom Brown, s. g. 2.27½ Unknown, ch. g. 2.23 Viola, b. m. 2.28 Vanity Fair, b. g. 2.24¼ Western, b. g. 2.30 Western Girl, b. m. 2.27 W. B. Whitman, or Billy Barr, 2.23¾ W. K. Thomas, g. g. 2.26½ W. H. Allen, b. s. 2.23¼ Winthrop Morrill, Jr. 2.28¾ White Cloud, wh. g. 2.27½ Whitestockings, 2.30 Westfield, ch. g. 2.26½ Wild Oats, br. g. 2.29¼ Wellesley Boy, b. g. 2.26¾ Whalebone, b. g. 2.29 Young Bruno, b. g. 2.22¾ York State, b. g. 2.23¼ Young Rattler, 2.30 Young Magna, b. g. 2.29 Young Grafton, ch. h. 2.30 Zephyr, br. m. 2.30

[2] Dead.

RULES AND REGULATIONS ADOPTED BY THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF THE AMERICAN TROTTING TURF.

RULE 1.—_Mandate._—All trotting and pacing engagements and performances over the several courses which are, or shall be represented by membership in the “NATIONAL ASSOCIATION FOR THE PROMOTION OF THE INTERESTS OF THE AMERICAN TROTTING TURF,” and each and every person who shall in any way be concerned or employed therein, as well as all associations and proprietors themselves who are or shall become members of said National Association, shall be governed by the following rules from and after February 4th, 1874. [See also Articles 12 and 13 of By-Laws.]

RULE 2.—_Entries._—All entries for premiums must be made under cover, enclosing the entrance money for purses and forfeits in sweepstakes, and sealed and addressed to or deposited with the Secretary, or other person authorized to receive the same, at such time and place as shall have been prescribed.

Notices by telegraph of intention to enter shall be received up to the hour advertised for closing, and all such entries shall be eligible, provided the entrance fee specified shall be paid in due course, by mail or otherwise. [See also Art. 17 of By-Laws.]

It shall be the duty of the Secretary, or other person authorized, to prepare the list of entries for publication, comprising all information necessary for the enlightenment of the general public and parties to the race; and all entries as aforesaid shall be opened and announced at a public meeting, of which reasonable notice by advertisement or otherwise shall be given to the parties in interest.

RULE 3.—_Entrance Fee._—The entrance fee shall be 10 per cent. of the purse, unless otherwise specified; and any person failing to pay his entrance dues may, together with his horse or horses, be suspended until they are paid in full, which shall be with an addition of 10 per cent. penalty and interest at 7 per cent. per annum until paid—the penalty to go to the National Association. _Provided_, that no such suspension imposed after April 1, 1874, shall be lawful unless imposed within sixty days from the close of the meeting; _and further provided_, that any entry which shall be accepted upon conditions differing from those applied by the terms of the race to other entries in the same class shall be regarded a “conditional entry,” and as such shall be void. And any associate member who shall accept any such conditional entry, shall, upon satisfactory evidence produced to the Board of Appeals, be held to forfeit to the National Association 20 per cent. of the amount of the purse in which such conditional entry has been accepted.

RULE 4.—_How Many to Enter._—In all purses three or more entries are required, and two to start, unless otherwise specified.

RULE 5.—_Horses to be Eligible when Entries Close._—A horse shall not be eligible to start in any race that has beaten the time advertised prior to the closing of the entries for the race in which he is entered, unless otherwise specified in the published conditions.

Horses shall not be eligible if the time specified has been beaten by them at a greater distance; that is, a horse having made two miles in five minutes is eligible for a 2:30 race, but not eligible for a race limited to horses of a slower class than that.

RULE 6.—_Description and Name of each Horse Required._—An accurate and satisfactory description of each entry will be required, and shall be in the following form, to wit:

_Color._—The color and marks shall be accurately given.

_Sex._—It shall be distinctly stated whether the entry be a stallion, mare, or gelding, and the names of the sire and dam shall be given in all cases (and when unknown shall be so stated in the entry), under penalty of $25 fine for each omission. And the pedigree so given shall be published by the associate member with the advertisement of entries.

_Name of Horse._—Every horse shall be named, and the name correctly and plainly written in the entry; and after trotting in a public race such name shall not be changed, except by permission of the Board of Appeals, and upon payment of a recording fee of $10, the fee to go to the National Association; for each violation of this requirement a fine of $100 shall be imposed, together with suspension or expulsion; and if the horse has ever trotted in a public race the last name under which he or she trotted shall be given with the entry; and if the name has been changed within two years, each name he or she has borne during that time must be given; and if any horse without a name has ever trotted in a public race, mention must be made in the entry of a sufficient number of his or her most recent performances, to enable interested parties to identify the animal; _provided_, that it shall not be necessary to furnish any one association or proprietor with the same record the second time.

In entries and nominations hereafter made, the words “no name” shall not be received as a name; neither shall such descriptive words as “bay horse,” “gray mare,” &c., be allowed as names, under penalty of a fine not to exceed the entrance fee, to be imposed on the member who violates this restriction.

A horse having once been named, shall not again start in a race on any course in the United States or Canada without a name, nor under a different name, unless the foregoing requirements have been complied with.

_Double Teams._—In all double-team races the entry must contain the name and description of each horse, in the manner provided for entry of single horses.

RULE 7.—_Name and Address._—The residence and post-office address, in full, of the person or persons in whose name an entry is made, and if he or they be not the owner, then that of the owner or owners also must accompany each nomination.

RULE 8.—_Entries that Cannot Start._—As many horses may be entered by one party, or as many horses trained in the same stable as may be desired, but only one that has been owned or controlled in whole or in part by the same person or persons, or trained in the same stable within ten days preceding the race, can start in any race of heats.

RULE 9.—_No purse for a “Walk Over.”_—No purse will be awarded for a “walk over,” but in cases where only one of the horses entered for any premium shall appear on the course, he shall be entitled to his own entrance money and to one-half of the entrance money received from all other horses entered for said premium.

RULE 10.—_In Case of Death, Engagements Void._—All engagements, including obligations for entrance fees, shall be void upon the decease of either party or horse, so far as they shall affect the deceased party or horse; but forfeits, also matches made play or pay, shall not be affected by the death of a horse.

RULE 11.—_Match Races._—In all match races these rules shall govern, unless the contrary be expressly stipulated and assented to by the club, association, or proprietor of the course over which the race is to come off.

RULE 12.—_When Matches Become Play or Pay._—In all matches made to come off over any of the associate courses, the parties shall place the amount of the match in the hands of the stakeholder one day before the event (omitting Sunday) is to come off, at such time and place as the club, association, or proprietor, upon application may determine, and the race shall then become play or pay.

RULE 13.—_Purse or Stakes Wrongfully Obtained._—A person obtaining a purse or stake through fraud or error shall return it to the Treasurer if demanded within one year, or be punished as follows: He, together with the parties implicated in the wrong, and the horse or horses, shall be expelled until such demand is complied with, and such stake or purse shall be awarded to the party justly entitled to the same.

RULE 14.—_Fraudulent Entries, or Meddling with Horses._—Any person found guilty of dosing or tampering with any horse, or of making a fraudulent entry of any horse, or of disguising a horse with intent to conceal his identity, or being in any way concerned in such a transaction, shall be expelled.

Any horse that shall have been painted or disguised, to represent another or a different horse, or shall have been entered in a purse in which he does not belong, shall forfeit the entrance money and be expelled.

RULE 15.—_Reward._—A reward of $50 will be paid to the person who shall first give information leading to the detection and conviction of any fraudulent entry and the parties thereto, to be paid out of the funds of the National Association for the Promotion of the Interests of the American Trotting Turf, by the Treasurer, upon the decision and order of the Board of Appeals; _provided_, that this shall not be construed to extend to courses outside of this Association.

RULE 16.—_Protests._—Protests maybe made verbally before or during a race, and shall be reduced to writing, and shall contain at least one specific charge, and, when required, a statement of the nature of the evidence upon which they are based, and they shall be filed with the Judges, Association, or proprietor before the close of the meeting.

The Judges shall in every case of protest demand that the rider or driver, and the owner or owners, if present, shall immediately testify under oath, in the manner hereinafter provided; and in case of their refusal to do so, the horse shall not be allowed thereupon to start or continue in that race, but shall be considered and declared ruled out, with forfeit of entrance money.

But if the parties do comply, and take the oath as herein required, unless the Judges find conclusive evidence to warrant excluding the horse, they shall allow him to start or continue in the race under protest, and the premium, if any is won by that horse, shall be retained a sufficient length of time (say three weeks) to allow the parties interested a chance to sustain the allegations of the protest, or to furnish information which shall warrant an investigation of the matter by the associate member, or the Board of Appeals, and all outside bets on such horse shall be held in abeyance pending the decision of such protest; _provided_, that where no action as aforesaid has been taken to sustain a protest, during three weeks, the associate member shall proceed as if such protest had not been made.

In any heat which such protested horse shall win, the Judges shall waive the application of a distance as to all other horses, except for “fouls” defined in Rule 48.

When a protest is presented before or during a race, and the parties refuse to make the prescribed oath, if the Judges believe the refusal is designed to favor a fraud, they may require the horse under protest to start or continue in the race.

Any person found guilty of protesting a horse falsely and without cause, or merely with intent to embarrass a race, shall be punished by a fine not exceeding $100, or by suspension not to exceed one year, or by expulsion.

When a protest has been duly made, or any information lodged with the Judges in support of a protest, alleging an improper entry or any act prohibited or punishable under these rules, the same shall not be withdrawn or surrendered before the expiration of three weeks, without the approbation of the association or proprietor of the course upon which such protest or information was produced; and if any association or proprietor shall permit such a withdrawal of protest or information, with a corrupt motive to favor any party who shall be affected by the same, the association or proprietor so permitting, if convicted thereof by the Board of Appeals, shall be expelled from all connection with the National Association.

Associations or proprietors shall be warranted in retaining the premium of any horse, during the time herein mentioned, without any formal protest, if before it is paid they shall receive information in their judgment tending to establish fraud.

The oath required in answer to protest shall be in the following form, to wit:

I ________ of ________ in the County of ________ State of ________ on oath depose and say that I am the ________ of the ________ called ________ the same entered in a purse for horses that have never trotted better than ________ minutes and ________ seconds, to be trotted this day on this course, and the same that has been protested, and to which protest this affidavit is in answer, hereby declare and affirm that to the best of my knowledge and belief said before-mentioned horse is eligible to start or compete in the race aforesaid; and that I fully believe all the provisions and conditions required in the rules and regulations for the government or trials of speed over this course were fully and honestly complied with in making the entry aforesaid.

Given under my hand, at ________ this ________ day of ________ A. D. 187__.

________________

Subscribed and sworn to before me, this ________ day of ________ A. D. 187__.

________________

_Justice of the Peace._

[NOTE.—In the absence of a Justice of the Peace, if this oath be administered by an officer of the association, or one of the Judges of the race, it will be considered sufficient for the purposes of the National Association.]

RULE 17.—_When Horses Shall not be Drawn._—No horse shall be drawn except by permission of the Judges of the race, under penalty of being expelled, unless at or before seven o’clock P. M. of the day preceding the race (omitting Sunday), the proper party shall have lodged with the President, Secretary, or proprietor of the course, a written notice of his intention not to start, after which notice the horse so drawn shall be ineligible to start in the race.

Parties having two or more entries in one race shall elect which they will not start, and notify their decision at the same time, in the same manner, and under the same penalty as provided above.

RULE 18.—_Power of Postponement._—In case of unfavorable weather, or other unavoidable cause, each association or proprietor shall have power to postpone to the next fair day and good track (omitting Sunday), all purses or sweepstakes, or any race to which they have contributed money, upon giving notice thereof; and they may exercise this power before or after the race has commenced. [See also Rule 19.]

RULE 19.—_No Trotting After Dark._—No heat shall be trotted when it is so dark that the horses cannot be plainly seen by the Judges from the stand, but all such races shall be continued by the Judges to the next fair day (omitting Sunday), at such hour as they shall designate.

In all matches and stakes, the above rule shall govern, unless otherwise especially agreed between the parties and the association or proprietors.

RULE 20.—_Weights and Weighing._—Every horse starting for purse, sweepstake, or match, in any trotting or pacing race, shall carry, if to wagon or sulky, 150 lbs., exclusive of harness: and if under the saddle, 145 lbs., the saddle and whip only to be weighed with the rider.

Riders and drivers shall weigh in the presence of one or more of the Judges previous to starting for any race, and after each heat shall come to the starting stand, and not dismount or leave their vehicles without permission of the Judges, and those who are deficient in bodily weight shall be re-weighed after each heat. Any rider or driver not bringing in his required weight shall be distanced, unless such decision shall be deemed to favor a fraud. But a rider or driver thrown or taken by force from his horse or vehicle, after having passed the winning-post, shall not be considered as having dismounted without permission of the Judges, and if disabled may be carried to the Judges’ stand to be weighed, and the Judges may take the circumstances into consideration and decide accordingly. And the riders or drivers who shall carry during the heat and bring home with them the weights which have been approved or announced correct and proper by the Judges, shall be subject to no penalty for light weight in that heat; provided the Judges are satisfied the mistake or fault was their own, and that there has been no deception on the part of the rider or driver who shall be deficient in weight; but all parties shall thereafter carry the required weight.

RULE 21.—_Handicaps and Miscellaneous Weights._—In matches or handicaps, where extra or lesser weights are to be carried, the Judges shall carefully examine and ascertain before starting, whether the riders, drivers or vehicles are of such weights as have been agreed upon or required by the match or handicap, and thereafter the riders and drivers shall be subject to the same penalties and conditions as if they were to carry the weights prescribed by the rules.

RULE 22.—_When Riders and Drivers are Overweight._—If the bodily weight of any rider or driver shall be found to exceed that which is prescribed in the rules, or that which is required by the conditions of the race, and the overweight shall exceed twenty pounds, it shall be announced from the stand before the heat; and the judges shall have power, if in their belief such extra weight was imposed on the horse for an improper or fraudulent purpose, to substitute another rider or driver of suitable weight; and if they believe the horse has been prejudiced in the race by such overweight, he shall not be allowed to start again or continue in the race, and all outside bets on such horse shall be declared off. [See also Rule 28.]

A horse prevented by this rule from continuing in the race shall not be distanced, but _ruled out_.

RULE 23.—_Length of Whips._—Riders and drivers will be allowed whips not to exceed the following lengths: For saddle horses, 2 ft. 10 in,; sulkies, 4 ft. 8 in.; wagons, 5 ft. 10 in.; double teams, 8 ft. 6 in.; tandem teams and four-in-hand, unlimited: snappers, not longer than three inches, will be allowed in addition to the foregoing measurement.

RULE 24.—_Judges’ Stand._—None but the Judges of the race in progress, and their assistants, shall be allowed in the Judges’ stand during the pendency of a heat, except members of the Board of Appeals.

RULE 25.—_Selection of Judges._—[See also Art. 13 of By-Laws.] In every exhibition or race, over any course represented in the National Association, each course for itself, through the proprietor or association controlling the same, shall choose or authorize the selection of three (3) competent Judges, for the day or race, who shall understand the rules of the said National Association, and shall rigidly enforce the same; and all their decisions shall be subject to and in conformity with said rules.

Any person having any interest in, or any bet dependent upon the result of a race, or having any interest in either of the horses engaged therein, shall thereby be disqualified and restricted from acting as a Judge in that race. And if any person who is thus disqualified shall intentionally and deceptively violate this restriction, he shall, upon conviction thereof by the Board of Appeals, be adjudged guilty of a dishonorable act, for which he shall be expelled from every course represented in said National Association.

RULE 26.—_Authority of Judges._—The Judges of the day or race shall have authority, while presiding, to appoint distance and patrol judges and timers; to inflict fines and penalties, as prescribed by these rules; to determine all questions of fact relating to the race over which they preside; to decide respecting any matters of difference between parties to the race, or any contingent matter which shall arise, such as are not otherwise provided for in these rules; but all their decisions shall be in strict conformity with the rules, or with the principles thereof. They shall have control over the horses about to start, and the riders or drivers and assistants of the horses, and, in the absence of other provision in these rules, they shall have authority to punish by a fine not exceeding $100, or by suspension or expulsion, any such person who shall fail to obey their orders or the rules.

RULE 27.—_Distance and Patrol Judges._—In all races of heats there shall be a Distance Judge appointed by the Judges of the race or by those in authority, who shall remain in the distance stand during the heats, and immediately after each heat shall repair to the Judges’ stand and report to the Judges the horse or horses that are distanced, and all foul or improper conduct, if any has occurred under his observation.

Patrol Judges may be similarly appointed, and it shall be their duty to repair in like manner to the Judges’ stand, and report all foul or improper conduct, if any has occurred under their observation.

RULE 28.—_Powers and Duties of Judges._—The Judges shall be in the stand fifteen minutes before the time for starting the race; they shall weigh the riders or drivers, and determine the positions of the horses, and inform each rider or driver of his place, before starting; they may require the riders and drivers to be properly dressed; they shall be prepared to take the time of each heat in the race, and they may appoint some suitable person or persons to assist them in that respect, and the time so taken shall be recorded and announced in conformity with these rules. [See also Rules 39 and 40, and Art. 13 of By-Laws.]

The Judges shall ring the bell, or give other notice, ten minutes previous to the time announced for the race to come off, which shall be notice to all parties to prepare for the race at the appointed time, when all the horses must appear at the stand, ready for the race, and any rider or driver failing to obey this summons may be punished by a fine not exceeding $100, or his horse may be ruled out by the Judges and considered drawn; but in all stakes and matches a failure to appear promptly at the appointed time shall render the delinquent party liable to forfeit.

The result of a heat shall not be announced until the Judges are satisfied as to the weights of the riders or drivers, and sufficient time has elapsed to receive the reports of the Distance and Patrol Judges.

The Judges shall not notice or consider complaints of foul from any person or persons except the Distance and Patrol Judges appointed by themselves or by those in authority, and from owners, riders, or drivers in the race.

If the Judges believe that a horse is being or has been “pulled,” or has been ridden or driven in other respects improperly, with a design to prevent his winning a heat which he was evidently able to win, and that such act was done on the part of the rider or driver for the purpose of throwing the race, or to perpetrate or aid a fraud, they may declare that heat void, and they shall have power to substitute a competent and reliable rider or driver for the remainder of the race, who shall be paid a reasonable compensation for his services, but not to exceed $50; and any professional rider or driver who, without good and sufficient reason, refuses to be so substituted, may be fined, suspended, or expelled, by order of the Judges and upon approval of the Board of Appeals; and if the result and circumstances of the race shall confirm their belief, the rider or driver so removed shall be expelled by the Judges. And at the close of the race, if they are warranted under the foregoing circumstances in deciding that such improper conduct has changed the result of the race to the prejudice of innocent parties, they shall declare all outside bets “off,” and if the owner or person or persons controlling the offending horse shall be a party or parties to such fraud, he or they, together with the horse, shall be punished by expulsion. [See also Rules 22 and 48.]

RULE 29.—_Starting and Keeping Positions._—No rider or driver shall cause unnecessary delay after the horses are called up, either by neglecting to prepare for the race in time, or by failing to come for the word, or otherwise; and in scoring, if the word is not given, all the horses in the race shall immediately turn, at the tap of the bell or other signal given, and jog back for a fresh start. But there shall be no recall after the starting word or signal has been given. _Provided, however_, that if the Judges shall through any error give signal of recall, _after having given the word_, DISTANCE shall be waived in that heat, except for foul riding or driving.

When the Judges are prevented from giving a fair start by a horse or horses persistently scoring ahead of others, or being refractory, or from any other fault of either horse, rider, or driver, it shall be their duty, after three scorings, to select one of the contending horses, of average speed compared with the others, and no driver shall come up in advance of said horse before crossing the score.

No driver shall be allowed to sponge out his horse or horses oftener than once in five times scoring.

If these requirements are not complied with on the part of any rider or driver, the Judges may not only start the race, or give the word without regard to the absence or position of the offending party or parties, but the offender may be punished by a fine not exceeding $100, or by suspension not to exceed one year.

In all cases, the starting word or signal shall be given from the Judges’ stand, and in no instance shall a standing start be given.

When, through any fault of either horse, rider, or driver, the Judges are prevented from giving a fair and prompt start, they shall warn the faulty party of the penalties to which he is subject, and if such warning is not heeded, they shall rigidly enforce said penalties.

The horse winning a heat shall take the pole (or inside position) the succeeding heat, and all others shall take their positions in the order assigned them in judging the last heat. When two or more horses shall make a dead heat, the horses shall start for the succeeding heat in the same positions they occupied at the finish of the dead heat.

In coming out on the homestretch the foremost horse or horses shall keep the positions first selected, or be liable to be distanced; and the hindmost horse or horses, when there is sufficient room to pass on the inside or anywhere on the homestretch, without interfering with others, shall be allowed to do so, and any party interfering to prevent him or them shall be distanced.

If a horse, in attempting to pass another on the homestretch, should at any time cross or swerve, so as to impede the progress of a horse behind him, he shall not be entitled to win that heat.

Although a leading horse is entitled to any part of the track, except after selecting his position on the homestretch, he shall not change from the right to the left, or from the inner to the outer side of the track, during any part of the race, when another horse is so near him that in altering his position he compels the horse behind him to shorten his stride, or causes the rider or driver of such other horse to pull him out of his stride; neither shall any horse, rider, or driver, cross, jostle, or strike another horse, rider, or driver, nor swerve or do any other thing that impedes the progress of another horse; nor shall any horse, in passing a leading horse, take the track of the other horse so soon after getting the lead as to cause the horse passed to shorten his stride.

In any heat wherein there shall be a violation of any of these restrictions, the offending horse shall not be entitled to win the heat, and he shall be placed behind all other horses in that heat. And if the impropriety was intentional on the part of the rider or driver, the offending horse may be distanced, and the rider or driver shall be suspended or expelled. [See also Rule 48.]

RULE 30.—_Horses Breaking._—When any horse or horses break from their gait in trotting or pacing, their riders or drivers shall at once pull them to the gait in which they were to go the race, and any party failing to comply with this requirement, if he come out ahead, shall lose the heat, and the next best horse shall win the heat; and whether such breaking horse come out ahead or not, all other horses shall be placed ahead of him in that heat, and the Judges shall have discretionary power to distance the offending horse or horses, and the rider or driver may be punished by a fine not to exceed $100, or by suspension not exceeding one year.

Should the rider or driver comply with this requirement, and the horse should gain by a break, twice the distance so gained shall be taken from him at the coming out; but this provision must not be so construed as to shield any trotting or pacing horse from punishment for running.

In case of any horse (in a trotting race) repeatedly breaking, or running, or pacing, while another horse is trotting, the Judges shall punish the horse so breaking, running, or pacing, by placing him last in the heat, or by distancing him.

A horse breaking at or near the score shall be subject to the same penalty as if he broke on any other part of the track.

RULE 31.—_Relative to Heats and Horses Eligible to Start._—In heats, one, two, three, or four miles, a horse not winning one heat in three, shall not start for a fourth, unless such horse shall have made a dead heat. In heats best three in five, a horse not winning a heat in the first five shall not start for a sixth, unless said horse shall have made a dead heat. But where ten or more horses start in a race, every horse not distanced shall have the right to compete until the race is completed—subject, however, to all other penalties in these rules.

RULE 32.—_Dead Heats._—A dead heat shall be counted in the race, and shall be considered a heat which is undecided only as between the horses making it, and it shall be considered a heat that is lost by all the other horses contending therein; and the time made in a dead heat shall constitute a record for each horse making such dead heat.

Whenever each of the horses making a dead heat would have been entitled to terminate the race had he won said dead heat, they only shall start again; and, in that case, each of the horses thus prevented from starting shall retain his position in the award of premiums as if said dead heat had been decided in favor of one of the horses which made the same a “dead heat.”

A horse prevented from starting by this rule shall not be distanced, but ruled out.

RULE 33.—_Time Between Heats._—The time between heats shall be twenty minutes for mile heats; and for mile heats best three in five, twenty-five minutes; and for two-mile heats, thirty minutes; for three-mile heats, thirty-five minutes; and should there be a race of four-mile heats, the time shall be forty minutes.

After the first heat the horses shall be called five minutes prior to the time of starting.

RULE 34.—_Time Allowed in Case of Accidents._—In case of accidents, ten minutes shall be allowed; but the Judges may allow more time when deemed necessary and proper.

RULE 35.—_Collision and Break-Down._—In case of collision and break-down, the party causing the same, whether willfully or otherwise, may be distanced; and if the Judges find the collision was intentional or to aid fraud, the driver in fault shall be forthwith suspended or expelled, and his horse shall be distanced; but, if necessary to defeat fraud, the Judges may direct the offending horse to start again.

No horse but the offending one shall be distanced in such a heat, except for foul driving.

The Judges in a concluding heat, finding that a collision involved a fraudulent object, may declare that heat void. [See also Rule 48.]

RULE 36.—_Placing Horses._—A horse must win a majority of the heats which are required by the conditions of the race to be entitled to the purse or stake; but if a horse shall have distanced all competitors in one heat, the race will then be concluded, and such horse shall receive the entire purse and stakes contended for.

When more than one horse remains in the race entitled to be placed at the finish of the last heat, the second best horse shall receive the second premium, if there be any; and if there be any third or fourth premium, etc., for which no horse has won and maintained a specific place, the same shall go to the winner; _provided_, that the number of premiums awarded shall not exceed the number of horses which started in the race.

The foregoing provisions shall always apply, in such cases, unless otherwise stated in the published conditions of the race.

In deciding the rank of horses other than the winner, as to second, third, and fourth places, etc., to be assigned among such as remain in the race entitled to be placed at the conclusion of the last heat thereof, the several positions which have been assigned to each horse so contending shall be considered as to every heat in the race—that is, horses having won two heats, better than those winning one; a horse that has won a heat, better than a horse only making a dead heat; a horse winning one or two heats and making a dead heat, better than one winning an equal number of heats but not making a dead heat; a horse winning a heat or making a dead heat and not distanced in the race, better than a horse that has not won a heat or made a dead heat; a horse that has been placed “second” twice, better than a horse that has been placed “second” only once, etc.

When two or more horses shall be equal in the race at the commencement of a final heat thereof, they shall rank as to each other as they are placed in the decision of such final heat.

In case these provisions shall not give a specific decision as to second and third money, etc., the Judges of the race are to make the awards according to their best judgment, but in conformity with the principles of this rule.

RULE 37.—_Distances._—In races of mile heats, 80 yards shall be a distance. In races of two-mile heats, 150 yards shall be a distance. In races of three-mile heats, 220 yards shall be a distance. In races of mile heats, best three in five, 100 yards shall be a distance. But if any association or proprietor shall choose, they can provide, in heats of not over one mile, wherein eight or more horses contend, to increase the distance one-half, in which case such change shall be stated in the published conditions of the race before entry.

All horses whose heads have not reached the distance-stand as soon as the leading horse arrives at the winning-post shall be declared distanced, except in cases otherwise provided for, or the punishment of the leading horse by setting him back for running, when it shall be left to the discretion of the Judges.

A distanced horse is out of the race, and if in any heat one horse shall distance all competitors the race will then be completed, and the winner shall be entitled to the entire purse and stakes contended for, unless otherwise stipulated in the published conditions of the race.

RULE 38.—_Rank Between Distanced Horses._—Horses distanced in the first heat of a race shall be equal, but horses that are distanced in any subsequent heat shall rank as to each other in the order of the positions to which they were entitled at the start of the heat in which they were distanced.

RULE 39.—_Time and its Record._—In every public race the time of each heat shall be accurately taken and placed in the record, and upon the decision of each heat the time thereof shall be publicly announced by the Judges, except as provided in these rules concerning those heats which are “not awarded to either of the leading horses.”

It shall be the duty of the Judges of the race to take the time as aforesaid, or to appoint some suitable person or persons to assist them in that respect, and no _unofficial_ timing shall be announced or admitted to the record. [See also Rule 40.]

RULE 40.—_Two Leading Horses to be Separately Timed._—The two leading horses shall be separately timed, and if the heat is awarded to either, his time only shall be announced and be a record.

In case of a dead heat, the time shall constitute a record for the horses making the dead heat; and if for any other cause the heat is not awarded to either of the leading horses, it shall be awarded to the next best horse, and no time shall be given out by the Judges or recorded against either horse; and the Judges may waive the application of the rule in regard to distance in that heat, except for foul riding or driving.

RULE 41.—_Suppression of Time._—In any public race, if there shall be any intentional suppression or misrepresentation in either the record or the announcement of the time of any heat in the race, procured through any connivance, or collusive arrangement, or understanding between the proprietor or Judges or Timers and the owner of the winning horse or his driver or other authorized agent, it shall be deemed fraudulent. And any horse winning a heat or making a dead heat wherein there was such a fraudulent suppression of time, together with the parties implicated in the fraud, shall by operation of the rules be thenceforth expelled.

RULE 42.—_A Public Race._—Any contest for purse, premium, stake, or wager, on any course, and in the presence of a Judge or Judges, shall constitute a public race.

RULE 43.—_When Time Becomes a Bar._—Time made at fairs and on any track, whether short or not, shall constitute a bar, the same as if made over a track that was full measurement.

RULE 44.—_When Time shall not be a Bar._—Time made under the saddle, as well as time made when two or more horses are harnessed together, shall constitute a record for races of the same character, but shall not be a bar for races of a different character.

RULE 45.—_Complaints by Riders or Drivers._—All complaints by riders or drivers, of any foul riding or driving, or other misconduct, must be made at the termination of the heat, and before the rider or driver dismounts or leaves his vehicle.

RULE 46.—_Decorum._—If any owner, trainer, rider, driver, or attendant of a horse, or any other person, use improper language to the officers of the course or the Judges in a race, or be guilty of any improper conduct, the person or persons so offending shall be punished by a fine not exceeding $100, or by suspension or expulsion. [See also Rule 48.]

RULE 47.—_Loud Shouting._—Any rider or driver guilty of loud shouting, or making other improper noise, or of making improper use of the whip during the pendency of a heat, shall be punished by a fine not to exceed $25, or by suspension during the meeting. [See also Rule 48.]

RULE 48.—_Fouls._—If any act or thing shall be done by any owner, rider, driver, or their horse or horses, during any race or in connection therewith, which these rules define or warrant the Judges in deciding to be fraudulent or foul, and if no special provision is made in these rules to meet the case, the Judges shall have power to punish the offender by fine not to exceed $100, or by suspension or expulsion. And in any case of foul riding or driving they shall distance the offending horse, unless they believe such a decision will favor a fraud.

The term “foul” shall be construed to apply to riding or driving contrary to rule, to any act of a fraudulent nature, and to any unprincipled conduct such as tends to debase the character of the trotting turf in the estimation of the public. [See also Rules 28, 29, 35, 46 and 47.]

RULE 49.—_Fines._—All persons who shall have been fined under these rules, unless they pay the fines imposed in full on the day of assessment, shall be suspended until they are so paid or deposited with the Treasurer of the National Association.

All fines which shall be paid to the association or proprietor on whose grounds they were imposed, shall by them be reported and paid to the Treasurer of said National Association.

RULE 50.—_No Compromise of Penalties._—In no case shall there be any compromise in the manner of punishment prescribed in the rules, but the same shall be strictly enforced.

RULE 51.—_Suspensions and Expulsions._—Whenever the penalty of suspension is prescribed in these rules, if applied to a horse, it shall be construed to mean a disqualification during the time of suspension to enter or compete in any race to be performed on the course of the association or proprietor; and if applied to a person, it shall be construed to mean a conditional withholding of all right or privilege to make an entry, or to ride, drive, train, or assist on the course and grounds of the association or proprietor.

If no limit is fixed in an order of suspension and none is defined in the rule applicable to the case, the punishment shall be considered as limited to the season in which the order was issued.

Whenever the penalty of expulsion is prescribed in these rules, it shall be construed to mean unconditional exclusion and disqualification from any participation in the privileges and uses of the course and grounds of the association or proprietor.

No penalty of expulsion shall be removed or modified, except by the order or upon the approval of the Board of Appeals.

Whenever either of these penalties has been imposed on any horse or person, on the grounds of any association or proprietor holding membership in said National Association, written or printed notice thereof shall immediately be forwarded to the Secretary of said National Association, stating the offense and the character of punishment, who shall at once transmit the information to each associated course or member; and thereupon the offender thus punished shall suffer the same penalty and disqualification with each and every association and proprietor holding membership in said National Association.

RULE 52.—_Right of Appeal._—Any person who has been subjected to the penalty of suspension, or a fine, by the decision of the Judges of a race, can appeal from such decision to the association or proprietor upon whose grounds the penalty was imposed, and from their decision can appeal to the Board of Appeals; _provided_, that where the penalty was a fine, it shall have been previously paid.

All decisions and rulings of the Judges of any race, and of the several associations and proprietors belonging to said National Association, may be appealed to the Board of Appeals, and shall be subject to review by said Board, upon facts and questions involving the proper interpretation and application of these rules, and their decisions shall be final; _provided_, that parties to be affected thereby, shall be notified as the Board shall direct, of a time and place when such appeal will be acted on by the Board.

_Provided further_, if the appeal relate to the decision of a race, immediate notice shall have been given to the Judges of the race, of the intention so to appeal. Notices of all other appeals must be given within one week from the announcement of the decisions appealed.

Any person who shall appeal from any order suspending him or his horse for non-payment of entrance money or a fine, may deposit the amount claimed with the Treasurer of said National Association, who may thereupon issue a certificate or notice temporarily reinstating or relieving the party and his horse from such penalty, subject to the final action of the Board of Appeals.

RULE 53.—_Age of a Horse—How Reckoned._—The age of a horse shall be reckoned from the first day of January of the year of foaling.

RULE 54.—_Colts and Fillies Equally Eligible to Enter._—All colts and fillies shall be eligible alike to all premiums and stakes for animals of their age, unless specially excluded by the conditions imposed.

RULE 55.—_A Green Horse._—A green horse is one that has never trotted or paced for premiums or money either double or single.

RULE 56.—_Races made and “No Hour Named.”_—All races shall be started at 3 o’clock P. M., from the 1st day of April to the 15th day of September, and after that date at 2 o’clock P. M., until the season closes, unless otherwise provided.

RULE 57.—_Race made and no Distance Specified._—When a race is made and no distance specified, it shall be restricted to the following distances, viz.: One mile and repeat; mile heats, best 3 in 5; two miles and repeat, or three miles and repeat, and may be performed in harness to wagon, or under the saddle.

RULE 58.—_Race made to “Go as they Please.”_—When a race is made to go as they please, it shall be construed that the performance shall be in harness, to wagon, or under the saddle; but after the race is commenced no change shall be made in the mode of going, and the race shall be deemed to have commenced when the horses appear on the track.

RULE 59.—_Race made to go “in Harness.”_—When a race is made to go in harness, it shall be construed to mean that the performance shall be to a sulky.

RULE 60.—_Matches made against Time._—When a horse is matched against time, it shall be proper to allow any other horse to accompany him in the performance, but not to be harnessed with or in any way attached to him.

In matches made against time, the parties making the match shall be entitled to three trials, unless expressly stipulated to the contrary, which trials shall be had on the same day—the time between trials to be the same as the time between heats in similar distances.

RULE 61.—_Horses sold with Engagements._—The seller of a horse sold with his engagements has not the power of striking him out.

In case of private sale, the written acknowledgment of the parties that the horse was sold with engagements, is necessary to entitle the buyer to the benefit of this rule.

A true copy from the record.

D. F. LONGSTREET. Secretary.

GENERAL INDEX.

PAGE.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY, 11

BITS USED IN EDUCATING HORSES ADDICTED TO BAD HABITS: To prevent a horse getting his tongue over the bit, 251 Lolling the tongue, 251 Cure a horse sucking wind, 252 Dead mouth, 253 Cure a side-reiner, 253

CATTLE, EDUCATION OF: To educate a cow not to kick while being milked, 327 To educate a cow to give down her milk, 331 Practical result of educating cows to give down milk, 335 To educate cattle to lead behind a wagon, 339 System of educating steers, 428

DIRECTIONS FOR FEEDING AND FITTING THE HORSE, 451

DOGS, EDUCATION OF: To roll a barrel, 411 To fire a gun, 411 To pass between your legs, 415 To jump through hoops, 415 To stand on chairs, 416

DUNBAR SYSTEM OF HORSESHOEING, ETC., 445

EDUCATING THE HORSE, SYSTEM OF: New method of haltering a vicious or wild colt, 161 Teaching the words “Come here”, 165 How to lay a horse down, 169 How to get a horse up that throws himself, 173 To educate a colt not to be afraid of his heels, 177 To educate a colt to drive before being harnessed, 181 How to educate a colt to move his body when he moves his head, 185 Improved method of bitting colts, 189 Educating a horse to ride, 193 Instructions to ride the colt, 197 To halter-break and hitch a colt in the stall, 201 To educate the horse not to kick at you when entering the stall, 205 To educate the horse that kicks or paws in the stable, 209 To prevent a horse from getting cast in the stall, 213 To educate a colt to lead behind a wagon, 217 To educate a horse that is bad to catch, 221 To educate a horse not to rear, 225 To educate and prevent a horse from cribbing, 229 To educate and break a halter-puller, 233 To educate a horse not to kick when the rein gets under his tail, 237 Another method of educating a kicking horse, 241 To harden a tender-mouthed horse, 244 To educate the horse bad to groom, 247 Hugging the pole, 248 Luggers on the bit, 248 To educate horses not to fear objects while driving, 257 First lesson in educating horses not to fear an umbrella, 261 Second lesson in educating horses not to fear an umbrella, 265 Horse bad to bridle, 262 To educate a single-footed horse to trot square, 269 To educate a pacing horse to trot, 273 To educate a horse to trot fast, 277 To educate a horse not to kick while in shafts, 281 To educate and infuse life into a lazy horse, 287 To educate a balky horse to draw in double harness, 295 An easy method of starting a balky horse, 291 To educate a horse not to kick while being shod, 299 To educate a horse while standing bad to shoe, 303 Double hitch educating bridle, 307 A boon for the blacksmith, 311 To educate a horse not to be afraid of the cars, 315 To educate a horse to back at the word of command, 319 To educate horses or cattle not to jump fences, 323 To educate a tender-mouthed horse to pull on the bit, 343 To educate horses not to fear a buffalo robe—illustration and instructions found between pages, 344 and 345 To educate and make a horse bad to catch, 399

FAST HORSES, RECORD OF, 513

HISTORY OF THE HORSE, 141

INTELLIGENCE OF ANIMALS, 345

MISCELLANEOUS: The only practical way of administering medicine to a horse, 423 To tell a horse’s age, 425 New method to tell the age, 426 Sure method of producing a rapid growth in horses’ hoofs, 444 Corns and their treatment, 459 Ferren’s steel horseshoe, 362 Hoof-expanding shoe for contracted feet, 362

RECIPES—MANY NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED: An excellent liniment for sprains, splints or curbs, 270 A remedy for heaves, 324 A sure cure for worms in horses, 336 A cure for colic or gripes, 328 Cure for spavin, 408 Cure for windgalls, 408 Cure for colic, 419 Cure for heaves—never before published, 336 Diuretic drops, 284 Treatment of wounds, 266 To prevent horses being teased by flies, 304 An English stable liniment, 266 Liniment for contracted hoof, 296 For inflammation of the lungs, 324 To cure the scratches in the shortest time ever known, 392 To cure distemper, 404 To cure hide-bound, 404 To cure inflamed swellings or lame shoulders, 408 Ring bone remedy, 270 Remedy for botts, 266 Another cure for spavin, 424 A valuable liniment for sweeny, 316 Ointment for bruises, scratches, saddle galls, etc., 296 Nerve and bone liniment, 274 Sure cure for poll-evil and fistula, 274 To cure influenza, 496 Condition powders, 498 Glanders, 499 Lock-jaw, 503 To distinguish between distemper and glanders, 504 Chronic cough, 505 Treatment for Rheumatism, 505 Founder remedy, 506 Horse ointment, 506 Magic liniment, 507 French paste for bone spavin, 508 How to clean and oil harness, 509 Physic Ball, 510 To scatter poll-evil, 511 Healing salve for abrasion and cuts, 511 Wash for foul ulcers, 512 Antispasmodic tincture, 512

SHOEING, A TREATISE ON, 431 To prevent horses interfering, 441 To prevent overreaching, 443

TRICK HORSES: To educate a horse to mount a pedestal, 367 To make a horse waltz, 368 To walk on his hind-feet, 371 To teach to say “No”, 372 To teach to go lame, 376 To teach to be vicious, 379 To teach to push a vehicle, 375 To teach to laugh, 380 To teach to walk on his knees, 383 To teach to drive a boy off a pedestal, 387 To teach to make a bow, 388 To teach to shake hands, 388 To teach to sit down, 391 To teach to bore for oil, 395 To teach to walk upright, 396 To teach to take handkerchief from his side, 403 To teach to kiss a boy, 407

RULES TROTTING COURSE, REVISED, 521