The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 2
Part 17
More than five millions sterling have been sunk in harbour, lighthouse, and railway works at this bleak port. Close under the sheltering hills behind the town are the original harbour and the railway company’s improvements upon it; and away in the distance the great breakwater of the Harbour of Refuge, that occupied twenty-eight years in building, and was completed in 1873. The breakwater stretches half way across Holyhead Bay, a distance of nearly a mile and a half, with a lighthouse at its seaward end; the greater lighthouses of the Skerries, seven miles away, and the South Stack, on the other side of Holyhead Mountain, guarding the approaches to this perilous coast.
LVIII
But to end the Holyhead Road in the mean streets of Holyhead, or by merely tracing Telford’s modern highway, would be to conclude on a very feeble and inadequate note. Fortunately, the “old post road” across Anglesey still remains. It is three miles longer than Telford’s, and is especially interesting because it affords an excellent means of seeing with our own eyes what were the difficulties travellers had to contend with in the days before road reform. The twists and turns, and hills and hollows, remain just as they were, but as the road is still in use as a means of communication between several villages, with one town midway, the surface, it is safe to assume, is in better condition than in old times. It branches off to the right from the modern road, half a mile beyond Menai Bridge, and gives a taste of its quality at the outset, in making straight for a steep hill. Having climbed this, and passed through Braint and Ceint, up and down and to right and left, it climbs the hill of Penmynydd, whose very name is significant. Here the stage-coaches and the mails were accustomed to be overturned, and it was at sight of this portion of the road that some London coachmen, imported to work this stage, threw up their engagement and went home again. Travellers were not so much interested in Penmynydd being the historic place whence sprang the Tydyrs (“Tiddir” in the Welsh pronunciation and “Tudor” in English), as they were concerned in getting over the ground without broken bones; and the horsemen who preceded coach-travelling looked dismayed in each other’s faces at such a wild spot as this; reassured, however, on descending the rough and stony hill by a sight of a gallows that then overhung the roadway. Cheered by this evidence of law and order extending to the uttermost verge of the land, they removed their hands from their pistol holsters and spurred onward with renewed assurance.
Llangefni, beyond Penmynydd, has grown into a town since those times, with a big “Bull” hotel. At Gwyndû or Glanyrafon, half-way across the Island, an old coachman, not so handy as most of his fellows, failed to steer so neatly as he should between the great stones that in the good old days lay loosely about the road; with the result that the jolt knocked him off his box and he suffered a broken leg. Gwyndû in those times was a noted inn. It is now, like many another, a farmhouse, and all the historian can glean of its history is found in the fugitive notes of century-old tourists. Thus, a Mr. Hucks, pedestrianising in 1795, says he dined at Gwyndû inn, and that the hostess, a “fine old lady,” paid him and his companion “the utmost attention, and appeared particularly solicitous; gave us her blessing at our departure, with a thousand admonitions not to lose ourselves,” which of course they did. Rain and storm beset them, and they gladly quitted the “inauspicious island.”
There is little difficulty in losing one’s way on this old road, for when maps fail there is not a soul here who can understand the English tongue. One might talk Hindustani with equal chance of being understood. Welsh is the only language spoken, for the bi-lingual Welshman is left behind when crossing the Menai. Anglesey is the great stronghold of the Welsh language, and in many of its villages it is impossible to find a single person who understands a word of English. _Dim saesoneg_ is the sole reply the traveller is likely to meet with on the road, or if by chance, in some more civilised townlet, he makes himself understood, the broken and grotesque English of the replies he obtains is likely to be quite unintelligible. Even those who can command a little “Saxon” are chary of using it, and not a few of those who gruffly grunt _Dim saesoneg_ do so because they are shy of their attempts at an unfamiliar tongue being laughed at.
The scenery on the high ground near Gwyndû may be commended to the attention of those who describe Anglesey as flat, dull, and featureless. Here the road, to the backward glance, looks down towards Bodffordd, in a deep hollow, and away across the island into a charmingly wooded valley, with great bosses of granite cropping out here and there, and in the distance the inevitable background to Anglesey scenery, the Snowdonian mountains. The hamlet of Llynfaes, with whitewashed granite cottages, very quaint and homely, and very like Cornwall, is pleasing, and at Trefor there is a stretch of tree-shaded road whose like is not often found. Bodedern only is somewhat commonplace, and even that is transfigured by glimpses of the dark Holyhead Mountain and shining sea unfolded as the road goes downhill to Llanyngenedl, and thence to Valley. When it has crossed Telford’s road at this last place, the old way enters upon quite another kind of scenery; very beautiful in its sort. Hills, it is true, are not wholly left behind, but the prevailing landscape is flat, with wide, wild stretches of gorsy and heathery moor, threaded with salt-water creeks and pools. Holy Island is entered at Four-Mile Bridge, a causeway spanning the tidal channel. Windmills, seen in long perspective across the flats, shrilly piping gulls, salt pools, lichened granite rocks, and the ruins of Druidical cromlechs, make up the sum total of foreground and middle distance; with the sea at Penrhos and Trearddur Bay on the left, and a long line of roofs and chimneys in the background under Holyhead Mountain, standing for Holyhead town.
LIX
If a grand and awe-inspiring finish to the Holyhead Road be sought, let the pilgrim, instead of making for the town, ascend the misty steeps of Holyhead Mountain, and make his rugged and circuitous way to the South Stack. The road runs past some peculiarly depressing outskirts, and by a long row of empty and forlorn cottages offered to be let at fourpence a week, and not finding tenants even at that modest sum. These desolate dwellings were built for the use of the men employed on the Holyhead Harbour Works, and have not been occupied since the Harbour was completed.
The South Stack, at the rocky edge of Holy Island, cannot be gained under four miles of wandering by winding roads across the heathery uplands: the way traced by whitewashed stones placed at intervals to mark the track in foggy weather. Long before the traveller gains the cliff’s edge, he will perhaps be suddenly overtaken by one of the sea fogs, and at last come to the place unawares. Then he may be grateful indeed for the strong breast-wall of masonry that saves the strayed visitor from walking over the precipices into the sea some five hundred feet below.
A sea-fog is a ghastly and chilling phenomenon, but in no other circumstances does the South Stack rock appear so impressive, or the fog-horn of its lighthouse seem so uncanny. As a light wind springs up and gradually clears away the fog, like clouds of white smoke, the first object looming in ghostly fashion out of the absolute void is the lighthouse lantern, apparently detached and swimming in air; while the strange bellowing, like that of a dyspeptic cow, that has been coming at half-minute intervals from some unknown quarter, is located from it. The distant wail, throbbing in a higher key across the invisible water, is the fog-horn on the Skerries.
As the fog gradually dies away, the lighthouse becomes revealed with the island rock it stands upon. This is the South Stack: a great mass of seamed and crannied rock torn off from the cliffs and standing as an island, itself rising to a height of 212 feet above high water, and looked down upon by sheer granite cliffs three hundred feet taller. In the narrow chasm below the sea dashes savagely in and out of the gloomy caverns, with a sound like muffled thunder. The grandeur and scale of this terrific scene—a fitting climax to all the varied scenery of the Holyhead Road—are not fully realised when looking down upon it. There, on the island rock, stands the white lighthouse, with whitewashed stone walls zigzagging along the verge of its cliffs, and forming a little compound where the store-houses and the cottages of the staff are situated; and the whole looks so neat and toy-like that its dimensions are not at first grasped. But when the slow and winding descent to it down the face of the cliff by 381 rude rocky steps has been cautiously accomplished, the awful savagery of the spot is realised. There may possibly be a few places on these coasts to approach the grimly bristling rocks of the South Stack in their wild beauty, but none can surpass them.
At the foot of the long descent, but still perched high above the fearful waves that even in calm weather run and recede, hissing and foaming, for a distance of thirty or forty feet up and down the face of the cliffs, is the entrance to a suspension-bridge hung from side to side of the channel. Before this was built, the only means of access was by a line and basket, followed at a little later period by a rope bridge; but the risk was so great that the present one, a miniature reproduction of the Menai Bridge was constructed.
Perhaps as remarkable a feature of this strange place as anything else to be seen is the vast concourse of sea-birds inhabiting the rocks—shags, penguins, guillemots, cormorants, sea-gulls, puffins, razor-bills, and even peregrine falcons, screaming and chattering loud enough to drown even the sound of the waves. The lighthouse-keepers and other observers tell how the gulls all migrate to other and warmer climes on or about every 12th of August, returning in a body about February 10th. The keepers state that in midst of the February night they are advised of the birds’ arrival by a great noise, as though it were a mutual greeting and cheering. These feathered inhabitants of the South Stack are under the protection of the Government, and are as useful to the Trinity House as any of the lighthouses, buoys, beacons, or fog-horns on the coast; their incredible numbers and deafening noise warning mariners just as effectually as any mechanical devices. As no sportsmen (so-called) are allowed to disturb the birds, they are wonderfully tame, and present an odd sight, row upon row of them perched upon the ledges like some vast and patient audience. The cliffs for long distances are populous with them, and one particularly noisy and turbulent place near the North Stack has acquired the name of the “Parliament House.”
Here, then, where the sea-birds scream and fly, on the rocky ramparts of this wild land, overlooking that broad belt of water known by choice either as St. George’s Channel or the Irish Sea, shall the Holyhead Road most fittingly end. From this outlook one may watch the great liners coming by, bound for America, or within an hour of ending their voyage at Liverpool, and may see the packets set forth or come in from Ireland. Whether Ireland itself, or that other Mona, known better by its modern name of the Isle of Man, can be seen, lying afar off, like cloudbanks upon the horizon, is a matter for the most favourable weather, the keenest eyesight, and the most robust faith to decide in the affirmative, or for scepticism to deny.
INDEX
Allesley, i. 301
Anglesey, Isle of, i. 20; ii. 288, 292–295, 320
—— Marquis of, i. 165; ii. 295–297, 313
Ashby St. Ledgers, i. 241–243, 251
Atcham, ii. 89–91
Atherstone, i. 210–217
Baddesley Ensor, i. 217
Bangor, i. 20, 22, 219; ii. 112, 265, 273
Barnet, i. 27, 34, 38, 65, 66–79, 96
—— Fair, i. 69–72
Battlesden, i. 156, 162
_Beneventa_, i. 232
Berwyn, ii. 209
Bethesda, ii. 260–262
Bettws-y-Coed, ii. 87, 112, 218, 232–245
Bickenhill, i. 307–311
Bicton, ii. 145
Bilston, ii. 36–38
Birmingham, i. 4, 10, 11, 15, 24, 27, 188, 277, 307, 312–314; ii. 1–27, 109
Bodedern, ii. 320
Bodffordd, ii. 320
Boningale, ii. 64
Bordesley, i. 313
Boscobel, i. 225–227
Braint, ii. 318
Braunston, i. 182, 240
—— Hill, i. 239
Breidden Hills, ii. 88, 145–147, 151
Bridgetown, i. 221
Britannia Bridge, The, ii. 298–302
Brownhills, i. 5, 220
Brown’s Wells, i. 58
Brunsford Bridge, i. 208
Burcot, ii. 78
Caer Ceiliog, ii. 305–307
Caldecote, i. 213, 215
Capel Curig, ii. 108, 112, 249–253, 271
Catesby, Robert, i. 243, 252
Catthorpe, i. 205, 207
Cave’s Inn, i. 205, 207
Ceint, ii. 318
Cernioge, ii. 225–230
Cerrig-y-Druidion, ii. 223–225
Chirk, i. 2; ii. 162, 171–175
Churchbridge, i. 221
Coaches:— “Accommodation,” St. Albans, i. 121 “Albion,” Birmingham, i. 37 “Balloon,” Birmingham Post Coach, i. 28 Birmingham Mail, i. 157; ii. 12 Birmingham and Lichfield Flying Coach, i. 291 —— Stage, ii. 12 Birmingham and Shrewsbury Mail, i. 16, 31; ii. 112, 129 —— and Holyhead Mail, i. 16, 40 “Caravan,” the, London and Shrewsbury, ii. 104 Chester and Holyhead Mail, i. 16, 81, 102, 157, 162; ii. 113 —— Stage, i. 3, 6, 12, 291 —— and Shrewsbury Stage, i. 5 “Coburg,” Manchester, i. 85 “Coventry Flying Machine,” i. 291 —— Stage, i. 205; ii. 101 “Defiance,” Worcester and Shrewsbury, ii. 110 Diligence, Shrewsbury Stage, i. 32; ii. 107 “Eclipse,” Birmingham, i. 261–263, 291 “Economist,” Birmingham, i. 27, 32 “Emerald,” Birmingham, i. 31; ii. 16, 118 “Gee-ho,” Shrewsbury stage waggon, i. 32; ii. 102 “Greyhound,” Birmingham and Shrewsbury coach, i. 27, 32, 37, 152, 157; ii. 39 “Hero,” Manchester and Coventry, i. 292 “Highflyer,” Shrewsbury and Chester, ii. 120 Holyhead stage, i. 15 —— Mail (see “New Holyhead Mail”) —— Post Coaches, ii. 113 “Hope,” Halifax, i. 156 “Independent Tally-ho,” Birmingham, i. 24, 28, 29; ii. 14 “Little Wonder,” Coventry and Birmingham, i. 292 Liverpool Mail, i. 311 Manchester Mail, i. 193 New Holyhead Mail, i. 16, 22, 31, 81, 87, 102, 152, 157, 193; ii. 14–16, 98, 112, 113, 210, 223, 246, 267–270, 281 “New Shrewsbury Flying Machine,” or “London and Shrewsbury New Fly,” ii. 105 “Nimrod,” Shrewsbury, i. 27, 30; ii. 116–118, 133 “No Wonder,” Birmingham, i. 27 “Old Times,” St. Albans, i. 119 “Original London and Salop Machine,” ii. 106 “Original Tally-ho,” Birmingham, i. 24, 29 “Oxonian Express,” Holyhead, ii. 113 “Patent Tally-ho,” Birmingham, ii. 14 “Peeping Tom,” Manchester and Coventry, i. 292 “Prince of Wales,” or “Prince Regent,” Holyhead, i. 32; ii. 53, 113 “Real Tally-ho,” Birmingham, i. 24; ii. 14 “Shrewsbury Flying Machine,” ii. 105 —— —— Stage-waggon, ii. 103 —— Long Coach, ii. 104, 107 —— Machine, ii. 105 —— Stage, ii. 104, 107 “Stag,” Shrewsbury, i. 27; ii. 117 “Tally-ho,” Birmingham, i. 23, 24, 28, 44, 155, 192; ii. 12, 19 “Union,” Shrewsbury, i. 30; ii. 113 “Wolverhampton and Birmingham Flying stage,” i. 6 “Wonder,” Shrewsbury, i. 24, 27, 32; ii. 64, 74, 75, 91, 97–100, 114–119, 122, 155, 223 —— St. Albans i. 116–119
Coaching, i. 2–6, 12–18, 23–37, 43, 81–91, 98–102, 116–119, 121, 156–162, 192–194, 261–263, 291–298, 311; ii. 11–26, 39, 46, 91, 99–122, 152–155, 210, 223, 267–270, 280–282, 318
—— Accidents, i. 30–32, 81–88, 156, 192–194; ii. 39
—— Notabilities:— Chaplin, William, i. 82, 169 Clarke, Thomas, i. 293 Evans, Richard, ii. 46–49 Harper, Charles, ii. 267–269 Hassall, Robert, i. 263 Hayward, Sam, ii. 91, 97–100 Horne, B. W., i. 24, 29, 37; ii. 116 Jobson, John, ii. 116, 133 Kenyon, Hon. Thos., ii. 121, 150–155, 164, 223 Lawrence, Robert, i. 15; ii. 105, 108–113 Lee, Harry, ii. 16 Lloyd, Mrs. Sarah, ii. 19 Mountain, Mrs., i. 23; ii. 19 Peck, Tom, i. 263, 293 Pinner, Tom, i. 249–292 Rothwell, Nicholas, ii. 12 Rumney, P.J., i. 119 Sherman, Edward, i. 37; ii. 16 Taylor, Isaac, ii. 75, 114, 117, 133, 155 Tresslove, Harry, ii. 14 Vickers, Dick, ii. 223 Waddell, William, ii. 12, 20 Williams, Jack, ii. 268–270, 314 Williams, William, ii. 120–122
Corwen, i. 15, 18, 20; ii. 109, 211–218
Cosford, ii. 65
Coventry, i. 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 15, 29, 34, 210, 214, 266–301, 307; ii. 109.
Cox, David, ii. 234–239, 243
Crackley Bank, i. 228
Crick, i. 205; ii. 224
Cross-in-Hand, i. 208
Cycling, Historical sketch of, i. 278–291
Cycling Notabilities:— Drais, Baron von, i. 281 Dunlop, J. B., i. 287 Johnson, Dennis, i. 281 Lallemont, P., i. 282 Lawson, Harry, i. 286 Macmillan, Kirkpatrick, i. 282 Marriott, Jas., i. 280 Mayall, John, junr., i. 282 Niepce, M., i. 281 Spencer, C., i. 282 Starley, J. K., i. 286 Turner, R. B. i. 282
Cyfyng Falls, ii. 249
Dancer’s Hill, i. 81
Daventry, i. 29, 182, 188, 193, 210, 229, 232–239, 244, 245, 249
Denbigh Hall, i. 36, 169–171
Deodand, Law of, i. 86–88
Deritend, i. 313; ii. 236
Digbeth, i. 313
Dinas Hill, i. 18; ii. 231
Dirt House Hill, i. 193
Dodford, i. 230–232
Dordon, i. 217
Dove Bridge, i. 205
Dudley, ii. 9, 29, 37
Dunchurch, i. 188, 249–259; ii. 14
Dunsmore, i. 250, 251, 254, 259–263
Dunstable, i. 6, 101, 136, 139, 140–146, 204
—— Downs, i. 146–150
_Durocobrivæ_, i. 142, 204
Dyrham Park, i. 79
East Finchley, i. 58
Easton Neston, i. 185
Elmdon, i. 312
_Etocetum_, i. 218, 221
Fawkes, Guy, i. 250
Fazeley, i. 217
Fenny Stratford, i. 167–169
Finchley Common, i. 8, 58, 61–63
Flamstead, i. 134
_Forum Dianæ_, i. 204
Foster’s Booth, i. 194
Frankwell, ii. 142
Friar’s Wash, i. 133
Gaerwen, ii. 304
Gailey, i. 221, 224
Gibbet, i. 208
Glanyrafon, ii. 319
Glasfryn, ii. 225
Glyndwr, Owain, ii. 144, 172, 214–216, 271
Glyndyffws, ii. 221
Glyndyfrdwy, ii. 210
Gobowen, ii. 156, 169
Godiva, i. 270–273
Great Wyrley, i. 221
Gunpowder Plot, i. 241–243, 250–253
Gwalchmai, ii. 305
Gwyndû, ii. 319
Hadley Green, i. 79
Hammerwich, i. 219
Handsworth, ii. 27
Hatherton, i. 221, 246
Havencote Houses, i. 184
Hay Mills, i. 313
High Cross, i. 209–213
Highgate, i. 44–59
—— Archway, i. 44–54
Highwaymen, i. 5, 61–64, 93–96, 124–127, 137–140, 142, 223, 261; ii. 28
—— : —— Cady, William, i. 61 Garrett, Tom, i. 125 Simms, Harry, i. 137–140 Simpson, Jonathan, i. 261 Whitney, Captain James, i. 96
Hilltop, ii. 30
Hints, i. 217
Hockley, ii. 27
Hockliffe, i. 27, 28, 29, 102, 139, 140, 151–162
Holloway Bank, ii. 30
Holyhead, i. 10, 11, 18, 19, 20, 37, 38; ii. 273, 307–317, 321
Holyhead Mountain, ii. 306, 317, 320–326
Holywell Hill, i. 111, 115–117
Horsebrook, i. 224.
Inns (mentioned at length):— “Angel,” Islington, i. 27, 38–40 “Berwyn Arms,” Glyndyfrdwy, ii. 210 “Blue Ball,” Potterspury, i. 183 “—— Boar,” Dunsmore, i. 261 “Bull,” Weedon Beck, i. 199 “Bull and Mouth,” St. Martin’s-le-Grand, i. 24; ii. 114, 117, 119 “Bull’s Head,” Meriden, i. 303–305 “Cambria,” Menai Village, ii. 281 “Cave’s Inn,” i. 207 “Cock,” Stony Stratford, i. 172 “Craven Arms,” Coventry, i. 292 “Cross Foxes,” Oswestry, ii. 165 “Crown,” Holloway Road, i. 24 “Denbigh Hall,” i. 36, 169–171 “Druid’s Head,” ii. 219 “Dun Cow,” Dunchurch, i. 253, 254 “Fighting Cocks,” St. Albans, i. 122–124 “Four Crosses,” Hatherton, i. 221, 246 —— —— Willoughby, i. 244–247 “Gatehouse Tavern,” Highgate, i. 57 “George,” Bangor Ferry, ii. 280 “George,” Little Brickhill, i. 165 —— St. Albans, i. 120, 127 “Globe,” Weedon Beck, i. 198, 229 “Goat,” Maes Mawr, ii. 219 “Green Man,” Barnet, i. 78 “Haygate Inn” (“Falcon”), i. 30; ii. 74–76 “Hand,” Llangollen, ii. 194, 196, 205 “Hen and Chickens,” Birmingham, ii. 18–23, 99 “Hollybush,” Wellington, ii. 75 “Jerningham Arms,” Shiffnal, ii. 69 “King’s Head,” Coventry, i. 268, 272 —— —— Llangollen, ii. 106 “Lion,” Dunchurch, i. 253 —— Shrewsbury, ii. 41, 46–49, 75, 98–100, 103, 104, 107–109, 111, 114, 123–133, 155, 223 —— Wolverhampton, ii. 46–49 “—— and Pheasant,” Shrewsbury, ii. 102, 134 “Mad Tom,” Redbourne, i. 131–133 “Mitre,” Barnet, i. 73 “Mona,” ii. 304 “New” Weedon Beck, i. 198 “—— Royal,” Birmingham, ii. 24 “Old Royal,” Birmingham, ii. 8, 23 “—— Salisbury,” Barnet, i. 78 “—— White Lion,” Finchley, i. 58 “Owen Glendower,” Corwen, ii. 217, 267 “Peacock,” Islington, i. 43, 44 —— Sandhill, i. 31, 163 —— Wolverhampton, ii. 40 “Peahen,” St. Albans, i. 82, 116, 119 “Penrhyn Arms,” Bangor, ii. 265–267 “Pomfret Arms,” Towcester, i. 188–191 “Prince Llewelyn,” Cernioge, ii. 225–230 “Queen’s Head,” ii. 156, 159 “Raven and Bell,” Shrewsbury, ii. 100, 104, 108, 109, 134 “Red Lion,” Barnet, i. 74–78 “Royal,” Capel Curig, ii. 251 —— Llangollen, ii. 106 “—— Oak,” Bettws-y-Coed, ii. 235–239, 243 “Saracen’s Head,” Daventry, i. 239 —— —— Towcester, i. 188–191 “Spread Eagle,” Gailey, i. 224 “Star,” Shiffnal, ii. 69 “—— and Garter,” Wolverhampton, ii. 50 “Stonebridge Hotel,” i. 307 “Stork,” Birmingham, ii. 24 “Struggler,” Moxley, ii. 36 “Sun,” Glyndyfrdwy, ii. 210 —— Markyate, i. 136 “Swan,” Birmingham, ii. 12, 20, 23 —— Wolverhampton, ii. 45, 49 “—— and Peacock,” Wolverhampton, ii. 40 “—— with-Two-Necks,” Lad Lane, i. 82 “Talbot,” Atcham, ii. 90 —— Shrewsbury, ii. 116, 133 —— Towcester, i. 187 “Up and Down Post,” Meriden Heath, i. 306 “Verulam Arms,” St. Albans, i. 122 “Voelas Arms,” Pentre Voelas, ii. 230 “Wheatsheaf,” Daventry, i. 233 “White Horse,” Hockliffe, i. 152–156 “—— Lion,” Allesley, i. 301 “Woodman,” Finchley, i. 54 “Wynnstay Arms,” Oswestry, ii. 165
_Isannavaria_, i. 233
Islington, i. 39–44; ii. 173
Ivetsey Bank, i. 225, 227; ii. 103
Kensworth, i. 137
Ketley, i. 204, 228; ii. 72
Kitt’s End, i. 81
Knightlow Cross, i. 263–266
_Lactodorum_, i. 186, 204
Lilbourne, i. 205–207
Little Brickhill, i. 31, 164–167
Llandegai, ii. 264
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerchwyrndrobwlltysiliogogogoch, ii. 295–302
Llangefni, ii. 308, 319
Llangollen, i. 15, 18; ii. 108, 109, 162, 180–209, 215
—— Ladies of, ii. 191, 193–206
Llangristiolus, ii. 304
Llanyngenedl, ii. 320
Llyn Ogwen, i. 19, 20; ii. 254–257
Llynfaes, ii. 320
London Colney, i. 29, 95, 98–102, 125
Lonisaf, ii. 264
Maerdy, i. 18; ii. 220
Maes Mawr, ii. 219
_Magiovintum_, i. 204
Mancetter, i. 215
_Manduessedum_, i. 215
Markyate i. 136
Menai Bridge, i. 22; ii. 269, 282–288, 291, 318, 324
—— Straits, i. 20, 271, 280–289, 298, 302, 319
—— Village, ii. 288, 290, 295, 297
Merevale, i. 217
Meriden, i. 6, 302–306
Mimms Wash, i. 81, 85, 96
Mona, ii. 304
Monmore Green, ii. 39
Montford Bridge, ii. 145
Morland, George, i. 65
Moxley, ii. 36
Muckley Corner, i. 219
Mytton, John, ii. 123–125, 157–161
Nant Ffrancon, i. 20; ii. 257–260
Nesscliff, ii. 147
North Finchley, i. 64
Norton, ii. 88
Oakengates, i. 204, 228; ii. 72
Offa’s Dyke, ii. 162, 175
Ogwen Falls, ii. 257
—— Pool, i. 19, 20; ii. 254–257
Old Stratford, i. 182