CHAPTER XXXVII

JERUSALEM--MUKMAS--JERICHO--ES SALT--WADI EL JIB

On the 23rd of February the Battalion left Jebel Ektief, and after some discussion in the wadi near the transport lines, some companies chose the route via the Wadi Hindi, Abu Dis and Bethany, while others struck across country over a distinct track, supposed to be the remains of a pilgrims’ road to the Jordan, and thence along the main Jerusalem-Jericho Road, via Bethany. Which was the better route has not been decided, sufficient to say that the troops hated both. Rain poured down when we were half-way to Jerusalem, and when Sir John Grey Hills’ house was reached late at night no one had the heart to argue as to the better way from Jebel Ektief. On the following day (Sunday) we availed ourselves of the rest. In the evening many attended Divine Service in the huge chapel of the German Emperor’s Palace, near to the Mount of Olives. It is a huge structure, and a wonderful view of the surrounding country could be obtained from the tower. It was used as a Corps Headquarters during the operations around Jerusalem; not quite the purpose for which the Kaiser had intended it. The chapel was wonderfully decorated inside, but the two things which struck one as being odd, and even profane, were the panelling of the altar, which was decorated by the crests of each of the Kaiser’s sons; and the ceiling, which was divided into two parts; one containing a beautiful painting of the Son of God, while the other contained, equally well painted, a picture of the Kaiser and his wife sitting on their thrones!

On the 25th of February the Battalion moved from Jerusalem, further north to Mukmas; the route was along the Nablous Road as far as Er Ram, a distance of about five miles, and here we struck off the main road eastwards over the roughly made military roads as far as Jeba. Here the route became more difficult and was across rough mountain paths making it necessary at times for the Battalion to march in single file. The transport could not travel the whole route, and was halted near Mukmas, from which point camels and mules carried stores and rations. The Battalion halted on the hills near Umm et Talah, and outposts facing the Jericho plain were taken up by “D” Company. The distance as the crow flies from Jebel Ektief to Umm et Talah was about five miles, but the country was of such a nature that the only route between these points entailed a long march through Jerusalem, a distance of nearly twenty miles. Just in front of the outpost position was Jebel Kuruntul, reputed to be the Mount of Temptation. For nearly a month of delightful weather all was peaceful on our immediate front. Occasionally patrols pushed out to the front and explored the deep ravines leading on to the Jericho Plain, but only once were we fired on by the Turks, and then from a considerable range, probably 1,000 yards. Acting on the principle, however, that the Devil finds work for idle hands to do, that wonderful pastime for tired troops was revived, namely road-making, and large fatigue parties were so employed. It had been a source of great interest to some of us that nowhere behind the Turkish lines, away from the four main roads which run north to Nablous, south to Bethlehem, east to Jericho, and west to Jaffa from the city of Jerusalem, could any trace be found of ways of communication, except an occasional mule track; whereas, behind our own lines, a network of specially constructed tracks was always to be found. It was a mystery to us how the Turks ever moved their guns, men and supplies in sufficient quantity to even replace normal daily wastage, but the fact that after the repulse of the counter attack on Jerusalem in December, 1917, a Turkish Quartermaster surrendered to one of our posts because he, a Quartermaster, could not get sufficient food, may indicate that they suffered from shortages through lack of roads and means of communication.

We had often gazed at dawn on the gorgeous sunrise over the Mountains of Moab, and seen the dull silver of the Dead Sea turned to burnished gold; we had also seen that white streak across the dark plain of Jericho which denoted the presence of that wonderful stream, the Jordan, but the thought that the words of the old song “One more ribber to cross” would ever come literally true never entered our heads. If it did we gave it no serious thought. We had heard of the Jordan Valley and its appalling heat in summer (for had not the Turk left in Jericho a note to the effect that they would return in the autumn to bury us), and also were familiar with the expression “go to Jericho,” so, indeed, had no wish to spend any time there. If the shades of the hereafter are hotter than the scene of Joshua’s miracle they can have no terrors for the 60th London Division. “Brass hats,” however, have ever since their creation been seers of visions and dreamers of dreams, but their decision to give us an Easter holiday in Moab could only have been the result of a nightmare.

Accordingly, the 21st March, 1918, saw the 60th Division concentrated with the Anzac Mounted Division in the Jordan Valley, ready to carry out a raid on a scale unheard of in the annals of the war: that is, penetrating over thirty miles into enemy territory of the wildest nature, with the destruction of the Hedjaz Railway at Annam as the objective. The Civil Service Rifles crossed the river on the afternoon of the 23rd of March by a pontoon bridge at Makhadet Hajlah, which had been gallantly constructed under fire by the Engineers, and moved up the left bank of the river, passing on our way the Commander-in-Chief, General Allenby, and the Duke of Connaught, who was on a tour of inspection well within range of the Turkish field artillery. Our object to the north was to rout out a nest of machine guns which was delaying the crossing at the El Ghoranyieh Ford some five miles to the north, but to our delight this particular body had realised the threat to their rear, and had “impshied.”

We bivouacked for the night in the Wadi Nimrin, near Umm Enkhala, and at 5.0 a.m. the next day moved out in support of the London Scottish and the Queen’s Westminsters, who attacked the hill of El Haud which, held in force by the Turk, barred the second means of approach to Es Salt--that by way of the Wadi Arsinyet.

A Boche “pip squeak” battery, which endeavoured to hinder us, drew the attention upon itself of one of our own 4·5 howitzer batteries, and speedily ceased fire. We were not called upon to assist, and were fortunate to witness a most successful attack in open order against an extended position. The sight of lines of London infantry advancing calmly under a heavy enemy field and machine-gun fire, and also of the final assault with the bayonet was one to be remembered and treasured. El Haud was taken with little loss to our forces, and we moved up to the foot-hills and bivouacked in the Wadi Arsinyet, near El Haud.

The river Jordan at Makhadet Hajlah is 1,200 feet below sea level, and El Haud is 846 feet above, and the weather changed, becoming steadily worse. The night was wet and bitterly cold, and we were not sorry to start at 7.0 a.m. the next day on our advance up the Arsinyet track to Es Salt (Ramoth Gilead).

In heavy rain up a most slippery, muddy, and stony track, we toiled upwards and upwards as advanced guard to the Brigade, which, with a Regiment of Australian Light Horse and Mountain Battery, was soon strung out in single file. Communication was maintained with the 181st Brigade on the main Es Salt Road by means of a portable wireless installation, carried by the Light Horse. After a most exhausting climb of nearly 3,000 feet, we arrived on the outskirts of Es Salt about 1.0 p.m., thoroughly fatigued and soaked to the skin. The weather was bitterly cold, and it was felt all the more, for in a little over twenty-four hours we had moved from the tropical heat of the Jordan Valley up some 4,800 feet to the climatic conditions in winter of the top of a mountain higher than Snowdon. The Turk had retired hurriedly, and offered little opposition, and further progress being impossible owing to our exhausted state we bivouacked--and slept in inches of mud. The night was disturbed by much rifle fire from Es Salt, and at dawn on the 26th, No. 16 Platoon was detailed to reconnoitre the town. Under Lieutenant Andrew, who was acting as O.C. Company, they entered the town to find no trace of the Turk, and to receive a tumultuous welcome from the population who, during the night, had kept up a “feu de joie” from their house-tops, which noise we had interpreted as hostile rifle fire. We were the first British infantry to enter Es Salt, for it was not until some hours later that the 181st Brigade, which had been moving up the main road from Shunet Nimrin, arrived in the town. Supplies were lacking owing to the great difficulty of getting the camels up the slippery mountain track, and an officer was detailed to proceed to the 181st Brigade and bring back some water camels--water being the pressing need.

The remainder of the Division moved up the Annam road, and the defence of Es Salt was left to the Civil Service Rifles. The same evening the Battalion moved out to the north-east of the town to Kefi Huda (3,597 feet), and took up a position covering the route from the north to Es Salt.

News came through of a possible attack by some 2,000 Circassian cavalry, and arrangements were at once made for their proper reception. Time available was short, but by toiling all night under the protection of standing patrols of the Australian Light Horse, dawn on the Maundy Thursday saw the 2/15th snugly settled ready behind stone sangars. Firing started with the first light of dawn and continued throughout the day, but no serious attack was attempted by the Turk.

At dawn on Good Friday, under cover of a thick mist, the Turks attacked with bombs a post in the centre of the Battalion. An energetic reply with Mills hand and rifle grenades, and a burst of fire from a machine gun resulted in their speedy repulse. The mist suddenly lifted, and opposite a neighbouring post was discovered a Turkish captain and his batman, with their kit complete. He was brought in and it transpired that he had set out with 200 men to assault the hill under cover of the mist, but his left flank got too far forward and pressed the attack before the remainder were ready, and they in consequence--like the burglar who heard the noise overhead--thought all was lost and fled, leaving their officer stranded on the hillside. In his pocket was found a small diagram which showed the relative positions of all our Lewis and machine guns, and this caused no little searching in the mind, for we had, as we thought, camouflaged them successfully. However, even if he, the captain, knew, his snipers apparently did not, for, though throughout the week-end we were continually sniped, one of our Lewis guns, though continually in action, had not a shot fired at it.

There were constant alarms, and on the night of the 30th/31st March “D” Company repulsed four separate determined attacks on their position, with no loss to themselves. On the right and left “A” and “B” Companies were troubled slightly, but the brunt of the defence of Es Salt fell on the centre of the line.

The situation was nevertheless serious, and the 2/14th and 2/16th Battalions were brought back to Es Salt.

The Battalion was relieved on the night of the 31st of March, and at dawn moved down to the south side of Es Salt. The Divisional withdrawal from Annam, the assault on which place had not been entirely successful, was now in full swing, and the majority of the Armenian population of Es Salt, terrified at the prospect of the return of the terrible Turk, was hastily evacuating the town. The road, which had been churned up by men, horses, guns, and wheeled transport, was inches deep in liquid mud, and was packed with refugees. Old men and boys, women and children of all ages, with their household goods in large bundles on their backs, staggered along obsessed with great fear. Their flight was terrible, and not a few of us hurriedly realised that it is not only troops who suffer in war time. We could give little assistance; our own baggage wagons were already overburdened and our own loads were heavy, but we did what we could.

At 8.0 a.m. on the 1st of April (Easter Monday), after standing in full marching order in the mud for a solid hour, we started our retirement, and though hindered and hampered by the crowd of refugees which surged and swayed either side of us, we marched steadily until 5.0 a.m. next day, when we emerged from the hills at Shunet Nimrin, and bivouacked for a few hours, after which we continued and, crossing the Jordan River by the Ghoraniyeh Ford, we arrived at a position in the Wadi Nuemiah about 3 p.m., having covered a distance of about thirty miles since 8.0 p.m. the previous night.

Every one was footsore, dirty, unshaven, with seven days’ growth of beard, and thoroughly tired, but we soon settled down to our first proper night’s rest for nine days, during which time we had experienced almost the extremes of heat and cold, and had marched about seventy miles through some of the most atrocious country our army has ever operated in. The other Brigades had fared even worse than we had, but the whole Division had covered itself with honour, and had no reason to be dispirited at the apparent failure of its novel enterprise. Gains in warfare are not measured by territory alone, and the influence of this raid--indeed it was almost a campaign--had a far reaching effect on the strategy of the Palestine campaign.

We were happy, on our return to the Jordan Valley, to welcome back from leave in England our Commanding Officer, Lieut.-Colonel Bisdee, and the Battalion, though it had worked well under its temporary Commander, was delighted to see its Commanding Officer back once again, and it speaks much for the spirit of comradeship of the Regiment that no one was perhaps more pleased to be with us again than Colonel Bisdee himself.

After a day’s rest in the valley, we moved once again up towards Jerusalem, and halted at Talat ed Dumm for twenty-four hours. At Talat ed Dumm there is a wayside house reputed to be the Good Samaritan Inn of Biblical times. After this short rest we again pushed up the old Jericho road, which we had come to know almost as well as the Strand. On arriving at Jerusalem we were again billeted on the Mount of Olives. The road from Jericho goes through particularly desolate and wild country, and no doubt in years to come, many a Civil Service Rifleman, when questioned by his offspring concerning the man who fell among thieves, will truthfully say, “If you had seen the road you would not be surprised.”

It was not a habit in those days to keep us idle, and we were soon moved on up the Jerusalem-Nablous road via Bireh and Ram Allah to the Wadi el Jib, where we temporarily relieved the 10th (Irish) Division. The Battalion was in reserve, and bivouacked on a terraced hillside which was covered with fig trees and vines. It was very hot, and we were glad to resume our summer kit. The camping ground was one of the most pleasant we had experienced in Palestine, and we made the most of it. There were flowers and plants in great profusion, and botanists amongst us spent hours collecting specimens; one of them, a botanist by profession, collected a hundred or so specimens which he had never seen before, and which he could not name.

Of actual war we saw but little, occasional bombing raids were made by enemy planes, but our chief enemy was just behind us--a gunner officer in charge of an 18-pounder battery, whose idea of humour was to give an order for ten rounds gun fire regularly each night at varying times between midnight and 4.0 a.m. Our considered opinion of this gentleman cannot be published here.

A week later we moved back as far as Attara, where we gave a most sincere and regretful God speed to our Colonel, who left us to take command of the 2/13th Battalion London Regiment. Colonel Bisdee had joined us at El Shaulth in September, 1917, and no Commanding Officer was ever so popular, both with his officers and men. He had instilled into the Regiment a magnificent spirit, and it is no idle boast to say that the Regiment would have gone into action anywhere and under any circumstances with Colonel Bisdee, with no misgivings and fully aware that, whatever happened, he would be their leader.