CHAPTER XXXI

ON THE DOIRAN-VARDAR FRONT--THE ADVANCE

A short description of the situation on the Doiran-Vardar sector of the Salonica Front will no doubt assist the reader to better realise the type of operations peculiar to this theatre of war. A few miles west of Lake Doiran was a mountainous ridge running north and south, about five or six miles long, known as “P” Ridge. This chain consisted of a series of five distinct peaks, the southern one, “Pip 5,” being about 800 feet high, while the remaining four progressively increased in altitude until “Pip 1” at the northern end reached the height of about 1,700 feet (or 535 metres); this was the famous “535” which dominated the country for many miles around, in fact on a clear day the peak could be distinctly seen from the hills at Dudular near Salonica, some 60 miles away. The Bulgar held practically all this ridge of the “Pips” except at the lowest part at the south, where the British had gained a footing. The Bulgar was strongly entrenched on all the slopes of the ridge, and each peak was an almost impregnable fortress in itself.

From the northern end the enemy lines ran due west along a mountainous chain some 1,000 to 1,200 feet high through the town of Devedzili, thence south of Paljorca to Pobreg. Just east of Pobreg the line ran due south for some six miles along another ridge of hills about 600 to 700 feet high which terminated at the “Nose,” a fortified stronghold on the borders of Serbia and Greece. From the “Nose” the enemy trenches were situated on the hills just north of Macukova, finally having the right flank on the banks of the Vardar at a point some four miles from the “Nose.”

The British line ran from the southern extremity of the “P” ridge in a south-westerly direction to the village of Bekerli, from which point it ran practically due west to the Vardar, where our lines were only about 1½ miles from the enemy trenches. The whole of the British line was on the low hills just north of the Cidemli Dere, a valley through which a small stream of about 20 feet in width bubbled along.

South of this stream the reserve British positions were situated on the chain of the Kolonovan Heights (500 feet) which ran along north of Ardzan, Smol and Karasuli. It will therefore be seen that only on our flanks were we in close touch with the enemy; on the left flank near the Vardar for about four miles east of the river banks as far as Reselli opposite the “Nose” where the enemy line turned north, and on the right flank at the foot of the “P” ridge at its southern extremities south of the village of Krastali. Even at these points the lines were at least a mile apart. The remainder of “No Man’s Land” consisted of a plain through which the ravine of the Selemli Dere formed a definite line between the opposing parties. From this ravine the ground was fairly flat for about 500 yards on each bank, but it soon developed into a land of hillocks some hundred feet above the level of the Selemli Dere plain, forming the foot-hills up to the higher ground held by the two armies. In this part of “No Man’s Land” were dotted the deserted villages of Dautli, Selemli and Sejdelli. The enemy had taken up a strong defensive line on the high ground which overlooked the whole of the lesser hills on the southern side of the Selemli plain, and his observation on our movements was therefore good. Any movement by day on our part was restricted, and from the commanding position of “P” ridge he could practically look into our trenches which had been constructed on the forward slopes of the small hills north of the Kolonovan Heights. In daytime these trenches were therefore only held by a sentry group, while the remainder of the garrison retired to the small bivouac camps which had been dug in on the reverse slopes.

By reference to the sketch map at the commencement of this chapter it will be seen that no further advance on our part was possible beyond the Bekerli Village Line, for from “Pip I” the Bulgars could enfilade any camps that were pushed forward. Not until the whole of the “Pip” ridge was gained could any advance on the Vardar section be made.

The British Army had therefore to sit content on the line of low hills, each of which was made into a strong point held by a garrison at night and a sentry group by day. The whole front was strongly wired and the ground or dip between these hills held by a Lewis gun post, or sometimes a Vickers machine-gun section. The wire had been cunningly arranged so that all these re-entrants formed “culs de sac” into which heavy machine-gun fire could be poured by the defenders.

During daytime no one disputed “No Man’s Land,” but at night time strong patrols were sent out by both sides to obtain the mastery, and prevent raids or surprise attacks on the defensive lines that were held. Across the centre of “No Man’s Land” was a line of large white stone pillars at regular intervals, representing the frontier between Greece and Serbia; an interesting fact, though, of course, having no bearing on the actual operations in this part of the world.

The British transport lines and ration dumps were behind the cover of the Kolonovan Heights which ran parallel with the main Karasuli-Kilindir Road which made communication along the rear of our positions comparatively easy. From the transport up to the line the journey was done at night time, except in the case of individual runners, or perhaps two or three men in a party, but so keen was the observation of the Bulgar that even these small parties attracted the unpleasant attention of a “pip-squeak” gun which had the tracks over the ridge “taped” to a nicety.

On the 19th of March, 1917, the Battalion marched up to the line from its bivouacs at Kolonova and took over from the 2/18th London Regiment (London Irish). All reliefs were carried out by night and under cover of darkness the Battalion left its sheltered camp, by Platoons at intervals. Every one had been ordered to maintain silence and no smoking was allowed. All the average man knew was the fact that somewhere over the ridge at Kolonova was the line, how far or how near he was never told, and the order for strict silence on the march led him to believe that the enemy was fairly close to hand, although in point of fact the Bulgar was comfortably settled in the dug-outs of his mountain stronghold at least five miles ahead. Knowing this fact the following incident on the march will be appreciated. A nervous private recently joined approached his Platoon Commander with a whisper, “Don’t you think that officer on horseback ought to cover his luminous wrist watch?” True, Major Oliver was in charge of the Battalion canteen, and probably had first choice of the luminous Ingersolls that occasionally came our way, but even the most luminous are not guaranteed to dazzle the eyes at a distance of five miles. However, such was the keenness of this rifleman to save his platoon from a strafe by the enemy artillery.

For a whole month the Battalion held the line from Waggon Hill, just east of Reselli village, to the village of Bekerli. On our left was a battalion of the 180th Infantry Brigade, while our neighbour on the right was the Queen’s Westminster Rifles of our own Brigade. The Battalion front consisted of Waggon Hill, which overlooked the Selemli Plain and the village of Sejdelli in front, while the ground on the left flank was low and formed a branch of the Selemli Ravine, and made a dangerous entrance to the rear of our positions just opposite the “Nose.” “D” Company occupied this hill, with “B” Company in immediate support in the valley of the Cidemli Dere. The right of the Battalion front was on the high ground near the ruined village of Bekerli, and formed the angle from which the British line ran north-east through Bastion Hill, Bowls Barrow, Whaleback, Horse Shoe Hill to the foot of “Pip 5” on the “P” ridge. “A” Company was responsible for the Bekerli defences, with “C” Company in immediate reserve, while Battalion Headquarters were farther back at Bekerli Ford, on the Cidemli Dere. As previously stated, movement was restricted during the daytime, which was spent in sleep, writing letters and card playing, leavened, of course, by fatigues and working parties for the improvements of dug-outs and similar work which could be undertaken by day under cover of the hills. No movement was allowed beyond an occasional runner to the support Companies or Battalion Headquarters. At night time, however, work commenced. The trenches were strongly garrisoned, and sentry groups were posted along the wire, while still farther out in “No Man’s Land,” about 500 yards from the wire, standing patrols of an N.C.O. and 20 men were posted in order to prevent the enemy from approaching our lines in force.

The support companies furnished large carrying parties to bring up rations, letters and the _Balkan News_, a newspaper specially printed in Salonica for British troops; all of which arrived from the Quartermaster’s stores at Kulonova, about one hour after dark. They also provided working parties to improve the trenches, which for the most part had been blasted from solid rock. Communication trenches were also made up to the forward companies, care being taken to conceal them in the numerous shallow dips in the ground as any sign of digging was sure to be strafed the next day. All earth had to be removed, as the smallest heap of soil above the level of the ground was looked upon by the Bulgar as the commencement of a new gun emplacement and consequently bombarded. There is no doubt that the Bulgar took every advantage of his higher position, and his observers were very keen, and this together with the wonderful accuracy of his guns made us very careful to conceal all signs of digging.

The support companies also furnished an officer’s patrol each night of about 24 men strong. These fighting patrols had orders to approach the enemy’s wire on the other side of the plain. How different from the patrols of three or four men on the Neuville St. Vaast front in France, where movement was very restricted. On the Doiran front it became a nocturnal route march. A few points were sent ahead and the main body followed _en bloc_. Although instructions were issued to reach the enemy’s wire it was rarely accomplished; Bulgar patrols were always wandering about on the plain at night. In the area allotted to our Battalion for patrol work were the two villages of Dautli and Selemli, which were much nearer to the enemy’s advanced posts than our own. To reach these villages and search them was about the limit of our adventures. The Bulgars were far too strong at this point, for here the Selemli Dere could be crossed by tracks which the enemy jealously guarded. Fortunately, though shots were sometimes exchanged no serious fighting occurred to the 2/15th London patrols. On the return journey towards daylight it was considered part of the scheme to halt at the village of Sejdelli, near our lines, and break down the woodwork in the houses already damaged by shell fire and bring doorposts, window frames and so on back into our lines for the cooks’ fire. It was most amusing to hear the patrols heralding their safe return by loudly hammering on the woodwork of Sejdelli. Never a Bulgar fell into the hands of our patrols, but they always returned with plenty of wood.

Although in daytime it was not advisable to wander across “No Man’s Land,” on one occasion our Intelligence Officer, Lieutenant Andrew, and his batman, Private Joines, spent a day searching the village of Dautli. They walked to the village during the night and hid themselves at dawn in an empty house to watch the movements of the enemy near the fords across the Selemli Dere near by. Great was their surprise, however, when a party of eight Bulgars appeared from the other side of the village carrying some rabbits and hares. Discretion was the better part of valour and Andrew and his batman decided to keep quiet. After a few exciting minutes and by quietly sneaking around the houses they were able to evade the enemy shooting party, and spent the rest of the day quietly enough locating and sketching the enemy forward posts. They returned to our lines in the evening.

Life under these conditions was very pleasant and the Battalion thoroughly enjoyed its stay in this part of the line. The only interruption beyond the casual shelling of our trenches and camps was the occasional visit of a flight of enemy aeroplanes which crossed over and dropped small bombs near our bivouacs. Usually they passed right over and made targets of the horse lines and dumps in rear of the Kolonovan Heights, and only when they were driven off by our anti-aircraft guns did they attempt to expend their efforts on our small hillside camps. Aerial activity on this front was very persistent, and practically every day our bombing planes sailed over and bombed the railways and dumps behind the Bulgar lines.

Occasionally a fight in the air took place, but the commoner sight was the repeated attacks of the enemy airmen on our observation balloon at Kolonova. On one or two occasions it was brought down in flames, but more often the attacker was driven off by our anti-aircraft guns, and on one occasion a direct hit by an “Archie” shell brought down the offending airman. The plane fell in flames near our battalion transport lines, and curiously when the wreck reached the ground the machine gun was still spitting out bullets and a few men of a neighbouring regiment were wounded by them.

The enemy infantry troubled us very little, and only an occasional cross fire between patrols made us aware of their presence, and fortunately they made no endeavours to reach the Battalion front; although at Bowls Barrow, a few hundred yards on our right, they made a determined raid on the 1st of April on a British post and inflicted casualties.

About the middle of April, however, our artillery became extremely active, and on the 20th the “Nose” and “P” ridge were heavily bombarded. This was the opening of an offensive on our part which was undertaken with a view of capturing the whole of “P” ridge. The bombardment was continued for three whole days with the intention of cutting the fields of wire which protected the Bulgar positions and to destroy his forward entrenchments. On the 23rd of April the volume of artillery increased considerably and continued until the night of the 24th, when the 2/20th Battalion of the London Regiment raided the stronghold of the “Nose.” Under cover of this heavy bombardment the Blackheath Battalion approached the enemy wire, and although our artillery had damaged it considerably, it still formed a great obstacle to the raiders. Heavy machine-gun fire was encountered, and the front slopes of the “Nose” were heavily barraged by the enemy, who also used strong search-lights from the crest of the “Nose” which swept the forward part of the position. Only a few gallant fellows ever reached the Bulgar trenches and the casualties were very heavy. For several nights afterwards search parties were out bringing in wounded. For the actual raid there was little direct success, but it served its purpose and acted as feint attack which drew a great deal of the enemy’s artillery fire, and thereby assisted the main attack which commenced that same night on the “P” ridge. This was successful, and Pip 4 and Pip 5 were captured after heavy fighting. The Battalion actually took no part in this general offensive, and fortunately the enemy’s artillery was so deeply engaged in combating the two serious attacks on their lines at the “Nose” and on “P” ridge that most of us were able to look from our trenches and watch the pyrotechnic display on either side. There can be no doubt that the British suffered heavy casualties in the minor attacks and counter-attacks which followed this initial success on the “P” ridge, but any attack on such strongholds as the “Pips” must of necessity be at great expense. The battle raged for about four days, but gradually subsided, and on the 27th of April the Battalion was taken out of the line and marched back to Tetre Verte, just over the ridge of the Kolonovan Heights, “D” Company remaining at Mektoub in immediate reserve to the London Scottish, who were holding the line east of Bekerli. Of all the camps in the Salonican area Mektoub was undoubtedly the safest, as it lay behind the cover of the hill, and consisted of tiers of dug-outs built into the very steep side of the hill. While out of the line the Battalion found fatigues even harder than in the line, for as far back as Tetre Verte one could wander about unobserved by the enemy, and, therefore, people who were seen very little in the front line were now very much in evidence.

On the eighth of May the line from the village of Krastali to Waggon Hill was slightly advanced in order to straighten the line which had been pushed forward by the partial success of the forward movement on the “P” ridge. Of course, this operation amounted to “peaceful penetration,” and no attack was necessary. The actual advance was made by the London Scottish and the Westminsters on that part of the line north-east of the Bekerli village, and was of course continued towards Krastali by the division on their right. Only “D” Company from Mektoub was engaged in this operation, having been brought up in support of the London Scottish as far as Piton 5, in rear of Middle Hill, and not to be mistaken for Pip 5 on the “P” ridge. On the 179th Brigade front the movement was performed without obstruction by the enemy, though further north-west near the village of Krastali strong opposition was met by the Division advancing from the Whaleback, and heavy artillery support had to be given to assist this section of the advance. Unfortunately one of the supporting batteries was firing from the dip in rear of Piton 5 and inflicted several casualties on “D” Company owing to their shells bursting at the muzzle of the guns. Lieutenant Miles and Private Cutchee were badly wounded, while Lieutenant F. W. Lewis and Lieutenant Martin received minor wounds and remained on duty.

The original line ran from Bekerli village north-west along the forward slopes of Mamelon Vert, Bastion Hill, Piton 6, Hill 275, Scratchbury Hill, Bowls Barrow, along Whaleback to Horse Shoe Hill, but after the advance the new line ran through Pitons 1, 2, 3 and 4, Basin Hill, Single Tree Hill, Tomato Hill over Krastali Nullah forward of Whaleback, and on the Pip ridge. After the night’s operation on the 8th, “D” Company returned to Mektoub under the cover of a heavy fog, the rest of the Battalion having remained at Tetre Verte during the advance.

The next night, the 9th of May, “D” Company left Mektoub as local reserve for the Westminsters, who pushed forward on to Goldies Hill, thus forming a salient in our new line between Basin Hill and Tomato Hill. The taking of Goldies by the Westminsters was resented by the Bulgar, who made a strong attack on the position with the assistance of a heavy artillery preparation. However, the Queen’s Westminsters held on and drove off the attack after heavy local fighting. On the 10th the Battalion moved from Tetre Verte and took over the new line from the London Scottish and also Goldies from the Westminsters.

The advance was comparatively a bloodless victory as far as the 179th Brigade was concerned, nevertheless it was of great importance on our front. From the new line the Selemli-Dautli plain was now under our direct observation from Pitons 3 and 4, Basin Hill, Goldies, and these hills therefore became positions from which an attack on the Selemli Fords could be attempted. Furthermore, it denied the Bulgar of the freedom of manœuvre over the captured part of “No Man’s Land,” while facing north from Goldies and Tomato Hill we were in closer touch with the enemy’s advanced posts near Devedzili on the slopes of White Scar and Flat Iron Hills. It had been impossible for the British forces to push forward before as we had only captured Pips 4 and 5 on the “P” ridge a few days previously. The capture of these two pips enabled our men to occupy more advanced positions without being under the direct observation of the Bulgar. The enemy resented very much the aggression on our part, and constantly shelled the newly-taken hills.

For the first fortnight of this period in the line the Battalion was employed in consolidating the new positions, and on the forward slopes of Tomato Hill, Single Tree Hill and Goldies, trenches were dug and each night miles of barbed-wire entanglements were erected. All this work was carried out under the protection of strong fighting patrols which took up their positions on the ravine in front of Flat Iron Hill. In daytime the hills were left in charge of a single sentry group and one signaller, while the remainder of the garrison retired for the day into the small nullahs on the rear of each hill ready to counter-attack should a message be received from the sentry group. Throughout the day the enemy ranged in the new-cut trenches, and with the exception of an unfortunate shell which wounded Lieutenant Hounsell, our forward groups had a charmed life. Only a minimum force was left behind the hills during the day; the remainder of the men returned to the old camps on Hill 275 and Piton 6. At night time, however, when large working parties were engaged in consolidating the positions, the enemy’s artillery became very active and many casualties resulted.

However, the hill which received the greatest strafe at nights was Goldies; the occupation of this point annoyed the Bulgar very much. The hill consisted of three distinct peaks one in front of the other, and were known as Goldies I, II, and III. Trenches were sited on II and III, while on Goldies I a strong patrol went out each night. For the first week of our occupation the hill was constantly shelled, and no less than ten distinct batteries showered their offerings on our heads. Fire came from White Scar direction in the north, from Pip 1 and 2 on the right, and from the Ouvrage de Trapeze on the left. In time we became acquainted with the direction of each battery and special sentries were posted who shouted “No. 6,” and then all the men on Goldies II bobbed down to the shelter in the shallow trenches, the occupants of Goldies III taking no notice; but when the sentry shouted, “No. 4 battery” it was the men on Goldies III who bobbed down while No. II men carried on with their work as though nothing had happened. Throughout the night the hill received a constant bombardment, and in one hour alone 600 shells fell near Goldies II and III.

Like the garrisons of the other hills the night garrison on Goldies retired for the day to the nullah in rear of the hill, leaving a small sentry group on Goldies II and III. The only approach to the top of Goldies from our lines was up a small ravine, and the Bulgars were apparently aware of its existence, the place was shelled both day and night, and was christened Pip Squeak Alley. At night, large working parties were sent up from the support battalion of the Brigade and dug a communication trench up the rear of the hill, and also one connecting Goldies II and III, but considerable casualties were incurred while the work was in progress.

The patrol on Goldies I pushed out scouts at night to the ravine in front, and one night a patrol, under Lieutenant Lewis, met a strong force of 20 Bulgars and a short sharp fight ensued. Our losses were only slight, chiefly wounds from bombs, but several Bulgars were killed, Lieutenant Lewis gallantly rushing the post and shooting two of the enemy with his revolver. The next night it was decided to raid the post with artillery support, but the patrol found that the Bulgar had fled. A special watch on this ravine was therefore kept, and Lieutenant Andrew and his batman Joines (“D” Company) spent the next day hidden in the bushes at the foot of Goldies I. A strong post of Bulgars came up to the ravine at daylight and settled themselves comfortably in the ravine, unaware of the watching couple. After a time a Bulgar N.C.O. wandered away from his comrades and approached the hiding place of Andrew and his batman, which was only 25 yards from the enemy. Suddenly the Bulgar’s attention was attracted by a walking stick on the ground which had been left by Andrew just before dawn when they took cover in the bushes. The Bulgar picked it up and examined his souvenir, but before he had taken full details of his find Lieutenant Andrew and Private Joines rushed at him and captured him. Whether the other Bulgars near by were struck motionless or whether the N.C.O. was particularly unpopular it is not known, but in broad daylight and in full view of the enemy Andrew and his batman chased their prisoner towards our lines and soon got under the cover of the hill. No attempt was made to follow them, and the Bulgar N.C.O. was soon on his way to Brigade Headquarters. It was an amusing adventure, but the brilliant daring of our two representatives cannot be over-estimated. Surprise had beaten numbers.

The Battalion held these new positions until the end of May When the whole Brigade was taken out of the line and concentrated at Dache near Kolonova. Rumours floated around that Pip 3 on the “P” ridge was to be our objective, but on the 5th of June orders were received to march back as far as Hadji Junas, about 10 miles behind the line. The march was carried out on the night of the 5th of June, and rain poured down making the route over the soft marshy ground near Lake Ardzan slippery and treacherous. The Battalion remained here for three days in hot weather and had an enjoyable rest.

On the 8th of June the march was continued south via Janis and Kukus as far as Sargol. By this time it was apparent that Salonica was to be our destination, and on the 11th of June we arrived at Uchanter, not far from Dudular, our first camp in Salonica, having stayed one day at Nares and another day at Ambarkoy on the route. This trek from the line was much pleasanter than the trek to the line in the previous March. Marching was done at night under the silvery rays of a bright moon, each night’s journey being about 15 miles. The weather was now becoming hot and marching at night was far more enjoyable than toiling along under the hot rays of the midday sun; after leaving Hadji Junas the roads were good, and I think the march was enjoyed by most of us; even the company mules behaved themselves and gave a minimum of trouble.

For the rest of the week the Battalion, in company with the remainder of the 60th Division, spent its time doing what the authorities were pleased to call “intensive training,” which meant field work from morn to night. During the night of the 19th of June the Battalion packed up its home and marched to the docks at Salonica. Great secrecy was made of the destination, and even the Commanding Officer and his staff who went down to the ship earlier in the evening were not allowed to return to the camp in case the news leaked out. On the morning of the 20th of June the Battalion boarded the _Abbasieh_, and learning that the boat was one of the Khedival Line, Egypt was soon on every lip. The sea journey was pleasant, and on the 22nd of June, while at sea, dinners celebrating the anniversary of our departure from England, twelve months previously, were held in all parts of the ship.