Part 7

HAD its Original from _Philip_ II. Duke of _Burgundy_, Sirnam’d _the Good_, the 10th of _Jan._ 1429. at his Marriage with _Elizabeth_, Daughter of _Portugal_, in the City of _Bruges_ in _Flanders_, to perpetuate the Memory of his great Revenues raised by Wools with the _Low-Countries_. Some say in Commemoration of _Gideon_, who with Three Hundred Men vanquished a numerous Army of the _Midianites_; or of _Jacob_’s _Fleece_, viz. the Party-coloured and streaked Fleece, after the Example of _Jason_ and his _Argonauts_, whose Expedition to _Colchos_ he intended to make his Patern by a Voyage into _Syria_ against the _Turks_. He founded it to the Glory of the Almighty Creator, and Redeemer, in Reverence of the Virgin _Mary_, and St. _Andrew_ the Apostle, who was Patron thereof, and whose Festival was celebrated on that Day, but afterwards translated to the 1st of _May_, by reason of the shortness of the Days, and the Fatigue aged Knights would find to convene in an intemperate Season. The Knights at first were Twenty Four, beside the Duke, chief and supream, who reserved the Nomination of Six more at the next Chapter; but _Charles_ V. encreased them, 1516. to Fifty. Duke _Charles_ and _Maximilian_, Sons to the Founder, annex’d many Privileges to them, which were confirmed, 1556. For their Habit Three different Mantles were ordain’d them at the grand Solemnity; the first Day, of Scarlet Cloth, richly embroidered about the Lower End, with Flints struck into Sparks of Fire and Fleeces, with Chaperons of the same; and the same Day, after Dinner, to proceed to Vespers in Mantles of Black, and of the Colour of Chaperons; the Day following they were to hear Mass habited as themselves thought fit; but Duke _Charles_ aforesaid prescribed them Mantles of White Damask for that Day’s Ceremony, and changed their Cloth Mantles into Velvet. The great Collar is composed of double Fusils, placed Back to Back, Two and Two together, in form of the Letter B, representing it both Ways, to signify _Bourgoigne_. And these Fusils are interwoven with Flint-stones (in reference to the Arms of the ancient Kings of _Bourgoigne_) seeming to strike Fire, and Sparkles of Fire between them, the Device of the Founder, at the End whereof hung the Resemblance of a Golden Fleece, enamelled proper. To the Flint _Paradine_ ascribes the Motto, _Ante ferit quam Flamma micet_; and to the Fleece, _Pretium non vile laboris_. The Jewel is commonly worn in a double Chainet or Males of Gold, linked together at convenient Distance, between which runs a small Red Ribbon, or otherwise it is worn in a Red Ribbon alone. The Emperors of _Germany_ descended from _Philip_ Archduke of _Austria_, Duke of _Burgundy_ and Count of _Flanders_, were the Sovereigns of it, till _Charles_ V. gave the Guardianship of it to the Kings of _Spain_, which he perform’d on the 25th of _October_, 1556. conferring it on his Son King _Philip_ at _Bruxelles_, when he took the Collar from his Neck, and with his own Hands put it over his Son’s Shoulders in the Presence of divers of the Knights, with this Form, _Accipe, fili mi, quem e collo meo detraho, tibi præcipuum Aurei velleris torquem, quem Philippus Dux Burgundiæ cognomine bonus Atavus noster, monumentum Fidei Sacræ Romanæ Ecclesiæ, esse voluit & hujusce Institutionis ac Legum ejus, fac semper memineris_: Since which the Honour of being Chief of this Order remains at this Day in that Crown.

35. _The Order of St._ George _at_ Genoa,

WAS given by _Frederick_ III. Emperor of _Germany_, in honour of St. _George_ the titular Saint and Patron of _Genoa_. The Ensign is a plain Cross _Gules_, and worn by the Knights at a Chain of Gold about their Neck. The Dukes of _Genoa_ are Chiefs thereof; and in regard their Dignity lasts but two Years, the Order is much impair’d thro the Inconstancy and Alteration of the Times.

36. _The Order of the_ Croissant, _or_ Half-Moon _in_ France,

WAS erected in the City of _Anjou_, 1464. or according to the _Saincte Marthes_, _A. D._ 1448. by _Rene_ of the House of _Anjou_, King of _Jerusalem_ and _Sicily_, &c. Duke of _Anjou_, &c. The Intent thereof was the Honour of God, Support of the Church, and Exaltation of Knighthood; over which he declared himself and his Successors, Dukes of _Anjou_ and Kings of _Sicily_, Chiefs. He also chose St. _Maurice_, Knight and Martyr, for Patron, and held the first Ceremonies in the Church of _Angiers_ dedicated to his Name. The Symbol which the Knights wore on the right Side of their Mantle, was a Golden Crescent, whereon in Red Enamel was this Word _L’oz_, signifying _L’oz en Croissant_, whereby they were spur’d forwards to search after the Increase of Valour and Reputation. At this _Crescent_ was fasten’d as many small Pieces of Gold, fashion’d like Columns, and enamell’d with Red, as the Knights had been engag’d in Battels and Sieges; for none could be adopted into this Order, unless he had well trod the Paths of Honour. The Knights were Thirty Six, others say Fifty, in Number. For their Habit they wore Mantles of Red or Crimson Velvet, and a Mantlet of White, with the Lining and Surcoat of the same.

37. _The Order of the_ Ermin _in_ Britanny,

WAS erected by _Francis_ I. Duke of _Bretagne_, to perpetuate the Memory of his Grand-father _John_ the Conqueror, or else in Imitation of other Orders in _France_; and thereupon he new built his Castle of _Ermin_. The Number of these Knights were Twenty Five. Their Habits were Mantles of White Damask lin’d with Carnation, and the Mantlet of the same. The great Collar was of Gold, compos’d of Ears of Corn in _Saltire_, bound above and beneath with Two Circles of Gold, imitating the Crown of _Ceres_, denoting the Care of Husbandry, and was sometimes called _The Order of the Ears of Corn_. At the End of this Collar hung the _Mus Ponticus_, or Ermin, passing over a Turf of Grass diaper’d with Flowers, at the Edge whereof was imboss’d this Epigraph in _French_, _Amaire_, the Device of his said Grand-father, by which he made known his Courage; and rather than fail in the least Punctilio of his Word, he would undergo any Misfortune. This Order ended when the Dukedom of _Bretagne_ became annex’d to the Crown of _France_, by the Marriage of _Anne_, Dutchess of _Bretagne_, to _Charles_ VIII. and _Lewis_ XII. both _French_ Kings.

38. _The Order of the_ Ermin _in_ Naples

OWES its Institution to _Ferdinand_ I. King of _Naples_, at the Expiration of the War which he was engag’d in with _John_ of _Lorain_, Duke of _Calabria_, 1463. being induc’d thereto by the Treason and Confederacy of his Brother-in-law _Marinus Marcianus_, Duke of _Sessa_, who design’d to murder him, and transfer the Kingdom to the Duke of _Calabria_: But the Plot being defeated, instead of bringing him to Justice, he not only pardon’d him, but instituted this Chevalry, admitting therein all the Noblemen of Title and Figure in the Kingdom, and generously appointed him one of the first Knights. The Collar was of Gold, intermix’d with Mud or Dirt, to which depended an Ermin and this Motto, _Malo mori quam fœdari_, alluding to the clean Nature of the Animal.

39. _The Order of St._ Michael _in_ Naples,

HAD its Original from the same King _Ferdinand_, in honour of St. _Michael_ the Arch-Angel, Patron of _Apulia_. The Habit of the Knights was a long White Mantle embroider’d with Ermins, and the Collar of Gold compos’d of the Letter O, to which hung in an Oval the Epigraph _Decorum_. By the Habit it seems to be the preceding Order, if that was dedicated to St. _Michael_.

40. _The Order of St._ Michael _in_ France.

_Lewis_ XI. King of that Realm, considering how his Affairs were entangled, to re-unite the Affections of his Nobility to himself, instituted these Knights, 1469. giving them their Denomination from St. _Michael_ the Arch-Angel, the titular Angel and Protector of _France_, in Reverence of whom their ancient Kings were wont to solemnize this Feast-day with great Magnificence, and keep an open Court. Their Number at first were to be Thirty Six, whereof the King and his Successors were Chief: But it afterwards proceeded to Three Hundred. The Collar is compos’d of Escallop-Shells of Gold, joyn’d one with another and double-banded, fasten’d on small Chains of Gold, at the End of which is annex’d an Oval of the same; and therein, on an Hillock, is the Figure of St. _Michael_ combating and trampling down the Dragon. The Motto, _Immensi tremor Oceani_. The Habit was a Mantle of White Damask hanging down to the Ground, furr’d with Ermin, having its Cope embroider’d with Gold, and the Border of the Robe interwoven with Escallops of Gold; the _Chaperon_ or Hood, with its long Tippet, was made of Crimson Velvet; but afterwards King _Henry_ II. order’d this Mantle to be Cloth of Silver, embroider’d with Three _Crescents_ of Silver, interwoven with Trophies, Quivers and _Turkish_ Bows, _semied_ and _canton’d_ with Tongues and Flames of Fire; the _Chaperons_ of Crimson Velvet should have the same Embroidery. Their Grand Festival was to be celebrated on _Michaelmas-day_, at the Church of _Mount Michael_ in _Normandy_; but after wards transferr’d to _Bois de Vincennes_ near _Paris_. There is an Herald of Arms to attend this Order, called _Monsieur St._ Michael. Upon the instituting _The Order of the Holy Ghost_, not only Care was taken to preserve this of St. _Michael_, and to rectify it, but the Knights had the Privilege allow’d them, that if they thought fit they were made capable of receiving that of _The Holy Ghost_, which no Stranger or Native could be enroll’d in that had taken upon him any other Order. The Collar of St. _Michael_ may be worn with that of _The Holy Ghost_, and it is now frequently us’d. The Evening before any receive _The Order of the Holy Ghost_, he is admitted into _The Order of St._ Michael.

41. _The Order of the_ Elephant _in_ Denmark.

KING _Christian_ I. being at _Rome_ upon a religious Account, Pope _Sixtus_ IV. among other Honours, invested him with this Order, in Memory of the Passion of our Saviour; and withal ordain’d the Supreme or Chief in his Successors, Kings of _Denmark_.

THIS King founded the magnificent Chapel of the Three Kings in the Cathedral Church of _Roschilt_, (Four Leagues from _Copenhagen_) where the Knights were to assemble upon the Death of any of their Fraternity. He admitted thereunto divers Kings, Princes and Noblemen. Its chief Ensign was the Figure of an Elephant, on whose side (within a Rundle) was a Crown of Thorns, with Three Nails all bloody, in Memory of the Passion. The Knights were oblig’d to Acts of Piety, Alms-Deeds, and certain Ceremonies, especially upon those Days on which they wore the Ensigns. King _John_ valu’d it so highly, that he wore them on every solemn Festival. He advanc’d it to that Pitch of Grandeur, that our King _Henry_ VIII. and _James_ V. King of _Scotland_, accepted it.

_Hertholm_, a learned _Dane_, in a particular Treatise of this _Elephantine Order_, says, The Badge was meerly Military, anciently given as a Memorial and Incitement to the _Danish_ Princes, who took upon them the Defence of Christianity against the _Moors_ and _Africans_.

HERETOFORE the Knights wore a Collar of Gold compos’d of castellated Elephants and Crosses, something like the _Crosses ancrees_ (_Menenius_ calls them Spurs) at which hung the Picture of the Virgin _Mary_ to the Middle, holding Christ in her Arms, and surrounded with a Glory of Sun-beams. But that long since laid aside, they now wear only a Blue Ribbon, at which hangs an Elephant enamell’d White, adorn’d with Five large Diamonds set in the Middle. These Elephants, in the Reign of King _Christian_ IV. had in the same Place, within a Circle, the Letter C, and in the Center of it the Figure 4, denoting _Christianus Quartus_.

THIS Honour is usually conferr’d on the Days of the King’s Coronation. _Frederick_ III. brought into use, in Imitation of _The Garter_, an embroider’d Glory of Silver Purple wrought upon the left Side of their Cloak or Vest, on which was embroider’d Two Crowns within a Rundle, bearing this Motto, _Deus providebit_. The late King, his Son, chang’d the Motto to, _Pietate & Justitia_; but all the Knights created by his Father are oblig’d to continue the former Motto.

42. _The Order of the_ Burgundian Cross _at_ Tunis,

WAS instituted on St. _Mary Magdalen_’s Day, 1535. by _Charles_ V. Emperor of _Germany_ and King of _Spain_, after he had restor’d _Mulleasses_, King of _Tunis_, to his Kingdom, to reward those Commanders who had behav’d themselves well in the Victory. It was the Day wherein he made his pompous Entry into _Tunis_, when clad in the Coat he usually wore in Battle, whereon was embroider’d a _Burgundian Cross_, which Cross he made the Badge, and added a Steel striking Sparks of Fire out of a Flint, with this Inscription, _Barbaria_; and for a more ornamental Decoration, gave a Collar of Gold, whereat hung this Badge.

43. _Knights of the_ Holy Ghost,

WERE instituted by the _French_ King, _Henry_ III. 1578. to unite his Nobles more firmly in their Obedience, to encourage them to persevere in the _Romish_ Religion, and to illustrate the State of his Nobility. It was so call’d by reason he was born on _Whitsunday_, 1550. elected that Day, 1573. King of _Poland_; and on that Day, 1574. came to the Crown of _France_. It was to consist of One Hundred Knights, besides the Sovereign or Great Master, which Office is inseparable from the Crown of _France_. A long Mantle of Black Velvet turn’d up on the left Side, and open’d on the right, was also appointed for the Habit, being at first embroider’d round with Gold and Silver, consisting of Flowers _de Lys_ and Knots of Gold, between Three sundry Cyphers of Silver; and above the Flowers _de Lys_ and Knots, were thickly powder’d Flames of Fire. This great Mantle was garnish’d with a Mantle of Cloth of Silver, cover’d with Embroidery made after the same Fashion, excepting only, that instead of Cyphers there were wrought Doves of Silver, and both these Robes double lin’d with a Satin of Orange-Tawney. The great Collar worn over the Mantle, was at first compos’d of Flowers _de Lys_, canton’d or corner’d with Flames of Fire, interwoven with Three Cyphers and divers Monograms of Silver; one was the Letter _H_ and a _Greek Lambda_, both double, for the King’s Name and the Queen’s, _Lovisa de Lorain_; the other Two were reserv’d in the King’s own Mind. But these Cyphers were taken off the Colour and the Embroidery of the Robes by King _Henry_ IV. and for a Mark of his Victories, Trophies of Arms were interlac’d instead thereof, with the Letter _H_ crown’d (the Initial of his Name) whereout arose Flames and Sparks of Fire; and for the like Reason the _H_ has been chang’d into _L_, both by _Lewis_ XIII and XIV. At this Collar hung a Cross richly enamell’d in the midst, whereon was figur’d a Dove in a flying Posture, as descending down from Heaven with full spread Wings: And that an Epigraph might not be wanting, some have attributed to it this, _Duce & Auspice_. Besides these Ornaments, the Knights wear a Black Velvet Cap, with a White Plume; their Breeches and Doublets are of Cloth of Silver, and their Shoes White ty’d with Roses or Knots of Black Velvet. The Badges ordain’d to be ordinarily worn, are a Cross of Yellow or Orange-colour Velvet, like a _Malta_ Cross, fix’d on the left Side of their Breast, except in military Expeditions, and then they are permitted to wear them of Cloth of Silver or White Velvet, having a Silver Dove, and at the Angles or Corners, Rays and Flowers _de Lys_ of Silver. They have a Cross of the Order made of Gold (like the _Malta_ Cross) with a Flower _de Lys_ in each Angle, to be worn about their Necks in a Blue Ribbon, and to be enamell’d White about the Sides, but not in the Middle. Such as are Knights both of St. _Michael_ and _The Holy Ghost_, are to bear the Figure of St. _Michael_ on one Side, and of a Dove on the other. The Anniversary is held on the first Day of the New-Year, but the first Part of the Ceremony begins always on the last Day of the Old, when it was instituted; and the Place for celebrating thereof is the Church of _Augustin_ Fryars in _Paris_.

44. _The Order of_ The precious Blood of our Saviour Jesus Christ _of_ Mantua,

WAS instituted, 1608. by _Vincentio de Gonzago_ IV. Duke of _Mantua_, and II. of _Montferat_, for Defence and Propagation of Christianity, and in Honour of Three Drops of Blood of our Redeemer; as also to set forth more nobly the Nuptials of his eldest Son _Francisco_. It was confirm’d by Pope _Paul_ V. and consisted of Twenty Knights, the Founder and his Successors to be Great Masters. The Collar is compos’d of Ovals of Gold, some extended in Length, others in Breadth, alternately, and interlink’d with small Anulets: Those in Length have these Words rais’d in White Enamel, _Domine probasti_; on the other in Breadth is a Grey Crucible fill’d with small Rods of Gold, and placed on a Trevet of Black Enamel over Flames of Fire, intimating, that they who incorporated in this Society, should hold inviolable Faith and Concord in the greatest Trials and Emergences of Life; at the End of the Collar is _pendant_ a larger Oval of Gold, in which are figur’d two Angels standing upright, holding between them a Chalice crown’d, in the Table whereof are painted Three Drops of Bloods enamell’d Red, and round the Oval, _Nihil isto triste recepto_.

45. _The Order of the_ Amaranta,

OWES its Institution to _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_, about the Year 1645. in honour of a Lady of that Name, of great Beauty, Courage, Modesty and Charity. The chief Ensign is a Jewel of Gold compos’d of Two _A_’s, adorn’d with Diamonds on both Sides, and join’d together by reversing one of them, being set within a Circle of Laurel Leaves wreath’d about with White, and on the Four Sides this Motto, _Dolcenella memoria_; which Jewel the Knights wear either in a Gold Chain, or a Crimson or Blue Ribbon, as they best like of. His Investiture is with this Ceremony: The Queen being seated under her State, an intended Knight kneels before her, when she acquaints him with her Inducements to confer on him this Honour, enumerating his Services and Merits: This done, he takes an Oath, still kneeling and holding his Hands between the Queen’s, to defend her Person from Harm, and the Persons of his Brother Knights; to incite Justice, Vertue and Piety, and discountenance its Opposers; after which the Queen puts about him (in the manner of a Baudrick) a Crimson Silk Scarf with the Jewel fasten’d thereto. To an absent Prince or Personage, she sends the Jewel, accompany’d with her Letter, which supplies the Place of a personal Investiture. Among many others have been several Kings and Princes. Sir _Bulstrode Whitlocke_ has been elected Knight of this Order.

46. _The Order of the_ Black Eagle,

WAS instituted by _Frederick_ King of _Prussia_, and Elector of _Brandenburgh_, soon after he had the Title of King conferr’d upon him.

§ 2. 1. In the _West-Indies_, _Montezuma_, King of _Mexico_, set Knighthood in the highest Splendor, ordaining certain military Orders, with several Badges and Ensigns. The most honourable among the Knights were those that carry’d the Crown of their Hair ty’d with a little Red Ribbon, having a rich Plume of Feathers, from which did hang Branches and Rolls of Feathers upon their Shoulders. They carry’d as many Rolls as they had done gallant Exploits in the Wars; and the King himself and his Sons were of this Order; which _Purchas_ calls _Eagle Knights_.

2. THERE was another Order, call’d _Of the Lyons and Tygers_. These Knights being commonly the most valiant in the Wars, always bore with them their Badges and Armories.

3. OTHER Knights there were, as _The Grey Knights_, not so much respected as the rest. They had their Hair cut round about the Ears: They made War upon their Enemies with Ensigns like other Knights, and were only arm’d to the Girdle, while the most Honourable were _Cap-a-Pee’d_. All Knights might carry Gold and Silver, be array’d in rich Cotton, have the use of painted and gilt Vessels, and wear Shoes; but the common People only the earthen sort; neither might they carry Shoes nor Attire themselves, but in a gross Stuff. Every Order had their Lodging assign’d them in the Palace, distinguish’d by their proper Ensigns: The first was the Lodging of the Prince, the second of _Eagles_, the third of _Lyons and Tygers_, and the fourth of _Grey Knights_.

THE Province of _Cinaloa_ (near _New Mexico_) created their Knights by giving a Bow, and setting them to encounter a Lyon or some other wild Beast.

THE _Inguas_, or Lords of _Peru_, dedicated their Children to Honour, by adorning them with _Guarras_ or Ensigns. They pierced their Ears, whip’d them with Slings, smeared their Faces with Blood, in order they should be true Knights to the _Ingua_. Those of Royal Extraction, before they received the Order of Knighthood abstained Seven Days from all manner of Nutriment, except a little raw Grain and Water, and after being heartned and brisked up again, performed some Military Exercises, also Racing, Wrestling, Leaping, Shooting, Slinging, throwing the Dart and Lance, _&c._ and enduring to be beaten on the Hands and Legs with Wands; these being as it were the Tests whether they could endure the Hardships of War or no; for if they did not sustain them manfully, they were denied Knighthood. The Ceremonies being performed by boaring an Hole in the Ears, putting on gallant Shoes, and wearing of the Breeches, which before they were restricted, adorning their Heads with Flowers, and having the Privilege of an Herb that none but themselves cou’d make use of, and lastly giving an Axe into their Hands. _Menenius_ calls these Knights _Oreiones_, from the _Spanish Orejas_, flop or loll-eared, in the _Latin Auriculares_, from the Leaf which they bore hanging in their Ears, or because they only negotiated Affairs with the Emperor, and had his Ear at all times.

IN _Japan_ there’s an Order of Knights called _Mengoras_, part of whom are called _Bonzees_, living in Fraternities, as our Religionists in _Europe_. Some of these have the Charge of their Idols, and the Service relating to their Temples, others follow the Wars. They profess Chastity with such Severity, that no Woman is allow’d to enter their Cities. They govern the Kingdoms they conquer, and are so very opulent that some of them possess 60000 Duckets _per Annum_; and have a publick Armory well stored to make use of upon any Exigence, which is maintain’d by a daily Contribution. Women have been excluded their Share in this Way of Honour, tho’ their Courage and Valour have equalized the _Amazons_ of old; the Example is of the noble Women of _Tortosa_ in _Spain_, or the _Femme_ Cavaliers of the _Torchi_. _Micheli_ barely calls them _Chavalleros_, or rather _Chavalleras_, seeing the _Latins_ have had the Words, _Equitissæ & Militissæ_, to express, _Virago’s_ and _Heroines_.