The History of the Most Noble Order of the Garter

Part 6

Chapter 63,506 wordsPublic domain

WAS founded _A. D._ 1048. by _Garcius_ VI. King of _Navarre_, in Honour of the blessed Virgin _Mary_, after his Recovery from a languishing Sickness. Others relate, that prevailing against the _Moors_, he made a Feast in Honour of the blessed Virgin, at which he instituted this Order, electing his Brothers and Sons among the first Knights. It was esteem’d the most Illustrious of all _Spain_, and consisted of Thirty Eight Knights, extracted out of the ancientest Blood of _Navarre_, _Biscay_ and _Old Castile_. The Kings of _Navarre_ were their Chief. They promis’d, at their Institution, to expose their Lives and Fortunes in Defence of the Christian Faith, the Conservation of the Crown, and Expulsion of the _Moors_.

9. _The Order of the_ Sword _in_ Cyprus,

WAS erected 1195. by _Guy_ of _Lusignan_, King of _Jerusalem_ and _Cyprus_, after he had purchas’d that Isle of our King _Richard_ I. in Commemoration of so fortunate a Plantation of 15000 Persons whom he brought thither. Some question the Truth of this; however all assent, its Founder was one of the _Lusignan_ Family. The Collar was compos’d of round Cordons of white Silk, woven into Love-Knots, interlac’d with the Letters S and R. Beneath this Collar hung an Oval of Gold, whereon was perfigur’d a Sword, the Blade enamell’d Silver, the Hilt Gold, and about the Oval this _Motto_, _Securitas Regni_. _Micheli_ says, _Pro Fide Servanda_, and _Gothofredus, pro integritate tuenda_. Their Festivity was _Ascension-Day_, whereon the Founder gave it (in the Church of St. _Sophia_, the Cathedral of _Nicosia_ in _Cyprus_) to his Brother _Amaury_, and to Three Hundred Barons establish’d in that his new Kingdom. There were Eight Kings of _Cyprus_ of the _Lusignan_ Line, Great Masters; but when this Isle fell into the Hands of the _Turks_, this Institution ceas’d.

10. _The_ Bear _in_ Switzerland,

WAS instituted _A. D._ 1213. by the Emperor _Frederick_ II. in Favour of the Abbot of St. _Gall_ in _Swaben_, who had assisted him in gaining the Empire. These Knights wore a Collar of Gold, at the End whereof hung a Bear Gold, mounted on an Hillock enamell’d with Black, in Honour of St. _Ursus_ of the _Theban_ Legion, who was martyr’d before the Temple of the Sun at _Soleurre_ in _Switzerland_. It was also call’d _The Order of St._ Gall, from the Name of the Patron (a _Scotch_ Gentleman, and the Apostle of _Swaben_) of the Place where it receiv’d its Appellation. The Abbot whereof, for the Time being, had Power to confer this Honour, which was done by girding with the Military Belt (the Sword being first consecrated) and putting on the Collar. It continu’d ’till the _Switzers_ became a Common-Wealth; and then the Castles of the Nobles being dismantled, it was laid aside.

11. _The_ Broom-Flower _in_ France,

TOOK its Original from _Lewis_ of _France_, to honour the Coronation of his Queen _Margaret_, _A. D._ 1234. Their Habits were Cassocks of White Damask, and Violet Chaperons; the Collar compos’d of Broom-Flowers Proper, interlac’d with Flowers _de Lys_, hanging thereat a Cross _Florence_ Gold, to which was added this Inscription, _Exaltat Humiles_; the Founder accounting the Broom the Symbol of Humility. Their Number was at the Sovereign’s Pleasure, and this Order continu’d till the Death of King _Charles_ V. Some say _Charles_ VI. instituted it, and others deny the being of any such Order.

12. _The_ Ship _and_ Double Crescent _in_ France.

SUCH an Order was of Old, in Honour of the great Atchievements of that Nation, tho’ by whom founded is unknown. _Favin_ affirms, St. _Lewis_ erected this after he had instituted the _Broom Flower_, to animate the Nobility to accompany him in his Expedition to _Africa_, 1269. Their Badge was alluding to the Name of the Order, the Figure of a Ship Pendant in an Oval of Gold; and expir’d with St. _Lewis_ after the first Class of Knights; but its Honour was kept up by _Charles_, Brother of St. _Lewis_, and flourish’d in _Sicily_ with his Successors, until the Kings of _Arragon_ obtain’d that Kingdom.

13. _Knights of St._ James _in_ Holland.

THIS Order was erected by _Florentius_, Earl of _Holland_ and _Zeland_, and Lord of _Friseland_; and he, _A. D._ 1290. bestow’d the Ensigns of it, in his Palace at the _Hague_, upon Twelve of his chief Nobility, among which was _Lancenot_ Lord _Hamilton_, Embassador from the King of _Scots_. They were invested with a Collar of Gold, or Military Belt of Silver gilt, set off with Six Escallops, whereat was hung the Picture of St. _James_ the Apostle.

14. _The Order of the_ Swan _in_ Cleveland.

IF ever any such was, it has been effac’d long since. Yet _Favin_ says, the Princes of _Cleve_ have born the _Swan_ for their Order, Devise, Crest and Supporters, to preserve the Memory of the _Knight of the Swan_, whose Romance he sets down. And further reports, That _Charles Gonzaga_ of _Cleve_, Duke of _Nevers_, had a Design to re-establish it.

15. _The Knights of_ Jesus _at_ Rome,

WERE instituted by Pope _John_ XXII. at _Avignon_ in _France_, _A. D._ 1320. as a Temporal Prince, being Lord Paramount of St. _Peter_’s Patrimony. _Paul_ V. much augmented it. Their Badge is a plain Cross Gules, inclos’d within a Cross patee Or, hanging at a Gold Chain. Pope _Clement_ IX. 1668-9. treated Three of the Embassadors from the _Swiss Cantons_ with the usual Ceremonies, himself putting on the Chains, and the Captains of his Guards girding their Swords about them.

16. _The_ White Eagle _in_ Poland,

WAS instituted by _Ladeslaus_, King of _Poland_, to honour the Marriage of his Son _Casimire_ the Great, with _Anne_ Daughter of _Gedimer_ Duke of _Lithuania_, 1325. The Ensign was a white Eagle crown’d.

17. _The Order of Knights_ de la Banda _in_ Castile,

WAS set up by _Alphonsus_ II. King of _Leon_ in _Castile_, in the City of _Victoria_, _A. D._ 1332. (or _Palencia_ 1330. or _Burgos_ 1368. according to others) not long before his Coronation, the better to secure himself against his Enemies. Soon after the Solemnity was celebrated at _Burgos_, in the Monastery of St. _Mary Royal_, where the Candidates, conducted by the King to the Altar, and depositing their Arms, spent the Night in Watching and Prayer. The Morrow after Mass, they were invested with a red military Belt or Ribbon, of four Fingers broad, which came a-cross the Body over the right Shoulder, and so under the left Arm, and was the Ensign from whence they took their Denomination. This Order was chiefly to Honour the Nobility; and at first none were admitted but the younger Sons of Noblemen [excluding elder Brothers] or Persons well-descended, or Esquires, who had serv’d in Court or Camp Ten Years at least. It was anciently of great Esteem, and Kings have vouchsafed to take its Ensign; but at length it was disus’d.

18. _The Order_ de la Calza,

INSTITUTED at _Venice_ _A. D._ 1400. from the Example of the _Knights_ de la Banda, in Honour of the Inauguration of Duke _Michele Steno_. It consisted of a Society of particular Noblemen and Gentlemen, who voluntarily met together, and elected a Chief among themselves. They took an Oath to observe their Articles, part whereof was, the Honour of the City, where noble and splendid Regales were made; and with such like magnificent Divertisements did they entertain King _Henry_ III. of _France_, and other noble Personages. It receiv’d the greater Lustre, by the Addition of several Italian Princes; and the most conspicuous Families were receiv’d into it. Their Habit, on Solemn Days, was a Crimson Senator’s Vest appearing very splendid. Their Ensign, a Sun in a Sheild painted in their Banners. It arriv’d to such Profuseness, that in 1590. it was wholly laid aside.

19. _The Order of St._ Mark _in_ Venice,

IS here reckon’d, because the Knights are dignify’d with a Title and particular Ensign of Honour at their Creation. The Ceremony is after the Manner of _Knights Batchelors_, by Dubbing with a Sword, and their Title a bare Mark of Honour, having no Laws or Statutes, or particular Obligations enjoyn’d. It had the Denomination from St. _Mark_ the Evangelist, whose Body was translated to _Venice_, 828. and became the Titular Angel and Guardian of that City, his Picture being display’d in their Banners. The exact Time of its Institution is not certainly determin’d. The Badge that adorns these Knights, is, a Gold Chain put over their Shoulders at their Creation, whereat depends a Medal, on one side whereof is the Symbol of St. _Mark_, _viz._ a winged Lyon, holding in his right Paw a drawn Sword, and in his left an open Book, with this Motto, _Pax tibi Marce Evangelista meus_. On the Reverse, the Duke surviving is beautify’d with a particular Impress. Sometimes represented on his Knee, receiving a Standard from the Hands of St. _Mark_. This Medal is worn on a Cross enamell’d Blew. The Duke confers this Honour, either privately in his Chamber, or publickly in a full College. The Senate have the Power of creating this Order; and they who receive it by their Sanction, the Dignity is greater than from the Hands of the Duke himself. Absent Persons are invested by Letters Patents; and to aggrandize their Honour and Title, style themselves _Knights of St._ Mark.

20. _The Order of the_ Seraphims, _or_ Seraphick Knights, _otherwise sirnam’d of_ Jesus,

WAS begun by _Magnus_ IV. King of _Sweden_ 1334. in Memory of the Siege laid to the Metropolitan City of _Upsala_. The Collar was compos’d of Seraphims and Patriarchal Crosses.

21. _The Order of the_ Sword _and_ Military Belt _in_ Sweden.

BY whom or when founded we have no Memoirs. The Collar made up of Swords, with Belts twining round them (the Symbol of Love and Justice) the Swords somewhat inclining towards the Point, and so joyn’d Two and Two, Point to Point, plac’d round in a Circle.

22. _The Order of the_ Knot _in_ Naples.

WHEN _Lewis_, King of _Hungary_, warr’d against _Joan_, Queen of _Naples_; not so much to dispossess her of the Kingdom, as to revenge his Brother _Andrew_’s Death, whom this _Joan_, his Wife, had strangled 1351. On the 26th of _May_, the Queen and _Lewis_ Prince of _Tarantuni_, being crown’d King and Queen of that Realm on the same Day, in Commemoration of so pacifick an Union, and to tear up all their Enmities, the Prince instituted this Order; into which enter’d, at that Time, Threescore and Ten Lords. Their Habit was White, and their Ensign a Knot (the Emblem of Love and Friendship) intermixt with Gold. This Order expir’d in a short Time.

23. _Knights of the_ Annunciade _in_ Savoy.

_Ame_ VI. Earl of _Savoy_, instituted this Order, under the Title of _The Collar_ 1362. in Honour of the Fifteen Divine Mysteries of the _Rosary_. _Favin_, on a mistaken Ground, calls it _The Order of the Snares of Love_, in regard its Founder had receiv’d of his Lady, a Bracelet made of the Tresses of her Hair, plaited in Love-knots, and that the four Letters, afterwards interlac’d by the Founder, should signifie _Frappes_, _Entres_, _Rompes_, _Tout_. It is conspicuous enough at the first Erection it was call’d of _The Collar_, and so remain’d till _Charles_ III. or _Le Bon_ Duke of _Savoy_, bestow’d on it the Title of _The Annunciation_, from the Picture of the Annunciation which he annex’d to _The Collar_, 1518. The Founder appointed the Number of his Knights to be Fifteen, among whom Sir _Richard Musard_, an _Englishman_, is recorded 1434. and 1568. their Number was encreas’d to Twenty, that being solely lodg’d in the Breast of their Sovereign. _Riene_ Castle, in _Buger_, was their principal Seat; they had a Chartreuse to entertain Fifteen Priests to celebrate Fifteen Masses to the Honour of the Fifteen Joys of the blessed Virgin, and to the Soul’s Health of these Knights; and here were their Ceremonies and Chapters held, until _Charles Emmanuel_ I. exchang’d it and other Places for the Marquisate of _Saluces_, 1607. on the Anniversary of the Feast and Celebration of the Order (being fix’d upon the Day of the Annunciation) were translated first to the Church of St. _Dominick_ at _Montmeiller_, and afterwards by him to the Hermitage of _Camaldule_, upon the Mountain of _Turin_ call’d _l’Eremo Assis_. The ancient Collar was of Gold, Three Fingers broad; in barbarous Characters were ingraved these Letters, F E R T, and one Knot (commonly call’d the _Savoy Knot_) at the end of each _Fert_; which, with Three other Knots entwin’d one within another, made up the Circumference _pendant_ at the Collar without any Figure. These old Characters were suppos’d to be the Initials of _Fortitudo ejus Rhodum tenuit_, alluding to _Amadeus le Grand_, who so valiantly defended _Rhodes_ against the _Turks_, 1310. But that this was long before the Devise of the House of _Savoy_, is manifest from the Coins of _Lewis de Savoy_, Baron _de Vaud_. who dy’d 1301. the Monument of _Thomas de Savoy_, who dy’d 1233. whereon was lying at the Feet of his Portraiture a Dog with a Collar about his Neck, inscrib’d _Fert_, as an integral Word, and from a Brass Coin of the said Earl’s, on the Reverse whereof are Two Knots of the Model before spoke of, and the Word _Fert_ in the midst. There is the Ectype of a Silver Coin of _Peter de Savoy_, (who erected in _England_ the noble Pile of that Name in the _Strand_, _temp. H._ III.) wherein is represented the Devise _Fert_ in _Gothick_ Characters, the true Interpretation of which Word cannot be explain’d. This ancient Collar is still in vogue and daily worn, but now called _The little Collar_, fashion’d of Gold or Silver gilt, about an Inch broad, and of different weight. The Knights wear it about their Necks, close to the Collar of their Doublet. Duke _Charles_ III. as he much restor’d the Splendor of this Order, _Anno_ 1518. introduc’d the larger one, only worn upon high Days. It weighs about Two Hundred Crowns, and is compos’d of the Word _Fert_, interwoven with Knots, severed with Fifteen Roses of Gold, whereof Seven are enamell’d with White, and Seven with Red, and border’d with Two Thorns. The Figure of the Annunciation is enamell’d in various Colours, _pendant at three Chainets_ to another Rose-colour’d both White and Red. He first appointed the great Mantle of Crimson Velvet, his own being furr’d with Ermines, but the rest of the Knights with Miniver, fring’d and border’d with _Savoy Knots_ in fine Gold; under this Mantle is worn a Surcoat of fine Damask. Duke _Emanuel Philibert_, his Son, alter’d the Colour of the Mantle to Azure, and lin’d it with White Taffaty, of which Silk he made the Surcoats. _Charles Emanuel_ chang’d the Mantle into an _Amaranthus_ or Purple Colour, seeded with Roses and Flames in embroidery of Gold and Silver, and lin’d with Cloth of Silver tissu’d Blue, now in use; under which, instead of the White Taffaty Surcoat, is now worn a White Satin Suit embroider’d with Silk, the Hose gather’d upwards in the fashion of Trouses.

24. _The_ Thistle _in_ France,

WAS instituted on _New-Year’s Day_ 1370. by _Lewis_ II. Duke of _Bourbon_, upon his Marriage with _Anne_, Daughter to the Count _Daulphine_ in _Auvergne_. The first Solemnities of this Order were perform’d at _Nostre Dame de Maulins_ in _Bourbonnois_, where he founded a College of Twelve Canons, in Honour of the blessed Virgin; the Intent was, to corroborate his Interest for the Aid of the Duke of _Orleans_, against the Faction of the House of _Burgundy_, and by joyning of Flowers _de Lys_ and Thistles (the Symbols of Hope and Courage) emblematically to express the Nobleness of his Spirit against all the Power of Fortune. He ordain’d the Number of Knights to be Twenty Six, comprehending himself and his Successors, Dukes of _Bourbon_, as Chiefs, and oblig’d them to wear daily a Belt, a Girdle of Watchel coloured Velvet, lin’d with Crimson Sattin embroider’d with Gold, and therein the Word _Esperance_ curiously wrought. The Girdle was fasten’d with a Buckle and Thong of Gold, bearded and chequer’d with Green, enamel’d in Form like the Head of a Thistle. On the Anniversary of the Festival (the Conception of our Lady) the Knights wore Cassocks or Surcoats of Carnation Damask with White Sleeves, girded as before; the Mantle of the Order was sky-colour’d Damask with broad Welts of Gold Embroidered on the Collar, and lined with Red Satin, but the Mantlet of Green Velvet, the Bonnet was also of Green Velvet; at the Point of the Band hung a Tassel of Crimson Silk and Threads Gold, the Lining of Crimson Taffaty, and turn’d up after the antique manner, whereon they had embroided the Golden Shield with the Word _Allen_; the great Collar was of Gold, of the weight of Ten Marks, enamelled with Green, distended like Network, which was filled with Flowers _de Lys_ (together with the Letters of the Impress) plac’d in a Lozenge of Red Enamel; at the Bottom of the Collar, in an Oval of Gold (the Circle whereof was enamelled with Green and Red) appeared the Figure of the Patroness, the Virgin _Mary_, irradiated with Gold, and crowned with Twelve Silver Stars, a Crescent of the same under her Feet, enamell’d with Purple and Sky-colour; at the End of the Oval depended the Head of a Thistle enamelled Green, but bearded White. The Founder took an exact Patern for the Order of the _Garter_, with which he acquainted himself while he was Prisoner in _Windsor_ Castle.

25. _The Order of the_ Dove

WAS begun by _John_ I. King of _Castile_ in _Segovia_, 1390. or, as others, 1379. to encourage his Nobles to prosecute the Noble Acts of his Grandfather King _Henry_ III. but the Founder dying the same Year, before it had taken root, it became of small Continuance.

26. _The Order of the_ Argonauts _of St._ Nicholas

WAS instituted by _Charles_ III. King of _Naples_, 1382. to preserve Amity among the Nobles, to compose Enmities and suppress Seditions. If any of these Knights, upon a Variance, refused a Reconciliation, the Ensigns were to be forfeited. Others say the Design was to advance Navigation, to which their Ensign alludes, being a Ship floating upon the Waters in the midst of a Storm, having this Motto, _Non credo tempori_. In the Convent of that sumptuous Church which St. _Nicholas_, Bishop of _Smyrna_, erected, was the grand Feast held on the Anniversary of that Saint. This King appointed a White Habit for the Knights, and prescribed them laudable Constitutions; but for want of a settled Revenue, their Splendor expired with their Founder.

27. _Knights of St._ Anthony _in_ Hainault.

ALBERT of _Bavaria_, Earl of _Hainault_, _Holland_, and _Zeland_, designing an Expedition against the _Turks_ and _Moors_, instituted this Order, 1382. The Ensign thereof was a Golden Collar wrought after the Fashion of an Hermit’s Girdle, at which hung a Walking-Staff, and a little Golden Ball.

28. _The_ Porcupine _in_ France,

WAS erected by _Lewis_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, 1393. to honour the Solemnization of the Baptism of his eldest Son _Charles_, by his Wife Daughter to the Duke of _Milain_. He chose the Porcupine for his Devise, with this Epigraph, _Cominus & Eminus_; not only out of the aspiring Hopes conceived of this Child, but also to intimate something of Revenge against _John_ Duke of _Burgundy_, his mortal Enemy; the Porcupine being an Emblem both Offensive and Defensive. Others make _Charles_ aforesaid the Founder of this Order, 1430. in Imitation or Emulation of the Golden Fleece, instituted by _Philip_ Duke of _Burgundy_. Their Number, including the Founder, was Twenty Five; their Habit, Surcoats of Violet Velvet, and over them Mantles of Watchet Velvet lin’d with Carnation Satin; the Collar was formed of Gold Chains, at the End whereof hung a Porcupine of Gold upon an enamelled Hillock of Grass and Flowers, which Creature was also embroidered on the Knights Belts.

29. _The Order of the_ Lily _or_ Lilies _in_ Arragon _or_ de la Jarra de S. Maria, _of the Vessel of St._ Mary,

WAS erected by _Ferdinand_ King of that Country, called the infant of _Antiquera_, 1403. and dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. _Favin_ ranges it under the Denomination of the Title of the _Looking-glass of the Blessed Virgin in_ Castile, instituted in Memory of a Victory King _Ferdinand_ obtained in that Kingdom against the _Moors_, 1410. whence he transplanted them with him into _Arragon_, 1413. when he received the Crown, where it flourished under the Sons of that King, and then the Line was extinct.

30. _The Order of the_ Dragon overthrown _in_ Hungary,

WAS instituted, _A. D._ 1413. by the Emperor _Sigismond the Glorious_, 1418. for the Defence of the Christian Religion, and to crush or oppugn all Hereticks and Schismaticks, and for the Satisfaction he receiv’d in conferring Peace to the Churches of _Hungary_ and _Bohemia_, by the Aid of the Council of _Constance_. It was in high esteem shortly after in _Germany_; but the Order and Founder had very near the same Period. The Knights wore daily, as their Ensign, a _Green Cross flory_, on solemn Days, a Scarlet Cloak, and on the Mantlet of Green Silk a double Chain of Gold (others say a Green Ribbon) at the End of which hung a Dragon dead with broken Wings, in posture of being overcome (the Symbol of Heresy) enamelled with Variety of Colours.

31. _The_ Equites Tusini _in_ Bohemia, _or else both in_ Bohemia _and_ Austria.

THIS Order had its Name from _Toca_, a Cap or Coif. The Archdukes of _Austria_ were its Founders; which they enacted to engage their Subjects in Defence of the Christian Faith against _Turks_ and _Hereticks_, conferring upon the Knights towards their Support whatsoever they acquired in the Wars, which was a respite to themselves, after almost Two Hundred Years Charges, and Military Expence; indeed the Encouragement proved so good a Bait, that they cleared their Provinces almost of all _Turks_ and _Schismaticks_ that infested them. Their Badge was a plain _Green Cross_, and their Habit Red.

32. Ordo Disciplinarum,

WAS instituted by the _Bohemian_ Kings, or rather the _Austrian_, to be a Curb upon the _Turks_ and _Hereticks_, at least to prescribe the Confines of the Kingdom. The Collar of the Order had a White Eagle. These Knights flourished in _Germany_, in the Reigns of _Sigismond_ and _Albert_ Emperors.

33. Orde de la Scama, _in_ Castile,

WAS instituted by _John_ II. King of that Realm, about the Year, 1420. to excite his Nobility to fight against the _Moors_, which produced so good Effect, that in a short time the _Moors_ were shamefully overthrown. That King granted them Privileges, gave them their Statutes and Rules; but upon his Death the Splendor hereof was greatly eclips’d. Their Ensign was a Cross composed of the Scales of Fishes. They were obliged to defend _Castile_ against the _Moors_, to dye in Defence of the Faith, and when the King went to War they marched before him. Their Ensign was a Cross composed of the Scales of Fishes, the _Spanish Scama_ bearing the same Signification as the _Latin Squama_.

34. _The Order of the_ Golden Fleece,