The History of the Most Noble Order of the Garter
Part 29
We pass on now from the removal and translation of a _Knight-Subject_, after he had been installed, to the assignment of his Stall, at the Time of the Installation it self; where it is worthy of Remark, That on the 24th of _April_, _Anno_ 6 _Elizabeth_, in lieu of the ancient Law, which appointed each elect Knight to succeed in the Stall of his Predecessor, a new one was introduced, being composed, as was conceived, upon a more just level than the former, and as far as was possible, to extinguish all danger that might arise from Emulation. The Words are: _That all Knights, who for the future were admitted into the Society of the Order, should take and be installed in the lowest Stall, according to the Course and Seniority of their Election, except only Stranger Kings and Princes_.
Upon which it chanced, that when a _Knight-Subject_ elect was to be installed, all the _Knights-Companions_, between him and the vacant Stall, were removed higher, that the space might be supplied: And if two or more were to be installed together, they possessed the lowest Stalls, according to the Seniority of their Election. And though the manner and order in removals, is become a thing of course, and rendered familiar and easy; yet it cannot be effected, or the Atchievements, Banners, or Plates, displaced, unless by a Warrant issued from the Sovereign, to justify the Garter for such his removals; which will plainly appear by the insertion of these Schemes.
The Order of Stalls, as they stood at the Feast of St. _George_, _Anno_ 29 _Eliz._
_ELIZABETH Regina._
1. _The Sovereign_ 1. _Void_ 2. _The_ French _King_ 2. _The King of_ Spain 3. _The King of_ Denmark 3. _Void_ 4. _Duke_ John Casimire 4. _Void_ 5. _Viscount_ Mountague 5. _Earl of_ Leicester 6. _Earl of_ Shrewsbury 6. _Earl of_ Warwick 7. _Lord_ Hunsdon 7. _Void_ 8. _Void_ 8. _Earl of_ Worcester 9. _Earl of_ Huntington 9. _Lord_ Burleigh 10. _Lord Grey_ 10. _Earl of_ Derby 11. _Earl of_ Pembrook 11. _Ld._ How. _of_ Effingh. 12. _Void_ 12. _Lord_ Cobham 13. _Lord_ Scroop 13. _Void_
A Translation of Stalls made against the Feast of Installation, _Anno_ 30 _Eliz._
_ELIZABETH Regina._
1. _The Sovereign_ 1. _Void_ 2. _The_ French _King_ 2. _The King of_ Spain 3. _The King of_ Denmark 3. _Void_ 4. _Duke_ John Casimire 4. _Void_ 5. _Viscount_ Mountague 5. _Earl of_ Leicester 6. _Earl of_ Shrewsbury 6. _Earl of_ Warwick 7. _Lord_ Hunsdon 7. _Earl of_ Worcester 8. _Earl of_ Huntington 8. _Lord_ Burleigh 9. _Lord_ Grey 9. _Earl of_ Derby 10. _Earl of_ Pembrook 10. _Ld._ How. _of_ Effingh. 11. _Lord_ Cobham 11. _Lord_ Scroop 12. _Earl of_ Essex 12. _Earl of_ Ormond 13. _Sir_ Christop. Hatton 13. _Void_
The first of these Schemes plainly evince, how the Stalls were ranked on St. _George_’s-_Eve_, _Anno_ 29 _Elizabeth_, and the other how modelled against the Installation of the Earls of _Essex_ and _Ormond_, and that of Sir _Christopher Hatton_, the 23d of _May_, _Anno_ 30 _Elizabeth_, which demonstrates those three elect Knights appear to be installed in the lowermost Stalls, (as the last mentioned Decree enjoyns,) and by reason the Earl of _Essex_, and Sir _Christopher Hatton_, were settled on the Sovereign’s side, the vacancy in the eighth and twelfth Stalls of the same side became filled up; the Earl of _Huntington_ being advanced into the eighth, the Lord _Grey_ in the ninth, and the Earl of _Pembrook_ in the tenth Stall, by the advance of the Earl of _Worcester_ into the seventh on the Prince’s side, the vacancy is there supplyed, and the other Knights seated below him, by a like removal, left the twelfth Stall for the Earl of _Ormond_, and the thirteenth void.
The same Order was observ’d by King _James_, as appears by another Scheme of the Stalls settled on the 3d of _July_, _Anno_ 1 _Jac._ I. at the Election of the Duke of _Lenox_, the Earls of _Northampton_, _Marr_, and _Pembrook_.
Stalls altered at a Chapter held at _Windsor_, the 3 _July_, _Anno_ 1 _Jac._ I.
_JAMES Rex._
1. _The Sovereign_ 1. _The_ French _King_ 2. _The Prince_ 2. _Void_ 3. _Earl of_ Nottingham 3. _Void_ 4. _Earl of_ Ormond 4. _Lord_ Buckhurst 5. _Earl of_ Salop 5. _Earl of_ Cumberland 6. _Earl of_ Northumberl. 6. _Earl of_ Worcester 7. _Lord_ Sheffeild 7. _Ld._ How. _of_ Walden 8. _Lord_ Hunsdon 8. _Lord_ Montjoy 9. _Sir_ Henry Lea 9. _Earl of_ Sussex 10. _Lord_ Cobham 10. _Lord_ Scroop 11. _Earl of_ Derby 11. _Lord_ Burleigh 12. _Duke of_ Lenox 12. _Earl of_ Southampton 13. _Earl of_ Marr 13. _Earl of_ Pembrook
From hence it is evident, that these elect Knights were installed in the lowest Stalls, and so continued throughout the series of his Reign, and since, except the Prince of _Wales_, and _Charles_ Duke of _York_, Sons to the said Sovereign: For the Prince was installed on the second on the Sovereign’s side, and upon that Election of the Duke of _York_, _Anno Jac._ I. the second Stall on the Prince’s side was assigned him, and the Morrow after St. _George_’s _Day_, upon which he was elected, he made a solemn Progression to the Chapel, in order to take Possession of it. Upon _Whitsunday_ following, at a serious Debate, it was determined in Chapter, that notwithstanding he was the Sovereign’s Son, yet he shou’d have no more Preheminence than other _Knights-Companions_, and that his Atchievements, which had been set up over the second Stall on the Prince’s side, shou’d be removed to that Stall next above the Viscount _Rochester_’s, and to be conserted with the Earl of _Montgomery_, before whom he had the Preference, on _Whitsun-Munday_, as they proceeded to the Chapter-House, in order to their Installation. And where it was farther Decreed, _That all Princes not Absolute, shou’d be installed thenceforth in the Prince’s Place_. But after this had passed, Endeavours were used to advance the Duke into the Stall he was first appointed to, and the Kings of Arms were consulted upon this Point; who certified, that _Richard_ Duke of _York_, second Son to King _Edward_ IV. was installed in the fourth Stall on the Prince’s side, and had Precedence of the Duke of _Suffolk_, and the Earls of _Dowglass_ and _Essex_, who were elected long before him: That _Henry_ Duke of _York_, second Son to King _Henry_ VII. was installed in the third Stall on the Sovereign’s side, and had the Preference of the Duke of _Buckingham_, and the Earls of _Oxford_ and _Derby_, his Seniors; and in the last Place, that _Henry Fitz Roy_, Duke of _Richmond_, base Son of King _Henry_ VIII. had Place and Precedence before the Dukes of _Norfolk_ and _Suffolk_, and other _Knights-Companions_. Upon which Grounds it was thought requisite that the Issue of the Sovereign should enjoy the same Privileges in this Affair, as those Princes that were Strangers; and therefore at another Chapter assembled at _White-Hall_, on _Easter-Monday_, being the 13th of _April_, _Anno_ 10 _Jac._ I. the Order which passed the Year before, for making the Duke a Puisne, was abrogated, and he was translated to the second Stall on the Prince’s side, and paired with Prince _Henry_, as may be seen by the Stalls then settled, and entered into the Blue Book of the Order.
We need not bring any more corroborating Circumstances of the Observation of the Chapter Act, made _Anno_ 6 _Elizabeth_, as it relates to _Knights-Subjects_, which has been punctually performed; but since Strangers are therein excepted, it will not be amiss to note, that the Rule and Practice continued as was established by King _Henry_ VIII. _viz._ that they were installed in Seats next to the Sovereign, according to the illustriousness of their Dignity and Birth.
We shall mention one Instance, of the manner of placing both Strangers and Knights-Subjects at one and the same Time. At the first coming of King _Charles_ I. to the Crown, there were of both Conditions to be installed in one Day, to wit, the Duke of _Brunswick_ a Stranger Prince, the Earls of _Salisbury_ and _Carlisle_, _Knights-Subjects_, elected by King _James_ I. in the 22d Year of his Reign, and on the 15th of _May_ following, the Earls of _Dorset_ and _Holland_ were elected with the Viscount _Andover_, and the Duke of _Chevereux_ the 4th of _July_ after. And when the removal of Stalls was propounded for the Admission of these seven elect Knights, it was agreed too, that the Dukes of _Brunswick_ and _Chevereux_ shou’d be installed in the uppermost Stall among Strangers, as King _Henry_ VIII. had before ordained, but the _Knights-Subjects_ in the lowermost Stalls, according to the pristine Practice, as appears from the Decree, _Anno_ 6 _Elizabeth_, and from the settlement of Stalls then made, and thus intituled. ·
A remove of _Banners_ and _Stalls_, at the Feast of St. _George_, and Installation holden at _Windsor_, the 13, 14, 15 Days of _December_, _Anno_ 1625. At which time were installed the Dukes of _Brunswick_, and _Chevereux_, the Earls of _Salisbury_, _Carlisle_, _Holland_, _Dorset_, and the Viscount _Andover_, as follows.
_CHARLES Rex._
1. _The Sovereign_ 1. _The King of_ Denmark 2. _The Prince Palatine_ 2. _The Duke of_ Brunswick 3. _Duke_ Chevereux 3. _Earl of_ Northumberl. 4. _Earl of_ Worcester 4. _Lord_ Sheffeild 5. _Earl of_ Suffolk 5. _Earl of_ Sussex 6. _Earl of_ Darby 6. _Earl of_ Marr 7. _Earl of_ Pembrook 7. _Earl of_ Montgomery 8. _Earl of_ Arundel 8. _Earl of_ Somerset 9. _Earl of_ Kelly 9. _Viscount_ Wallingford 10. _Earl of_ Rutland 10. _Duke of_ Buckingham 11. _Earl of_ Leicester 11. _Earl of_ Salisbury 12. _Earl of_ Carlisle 12. _Earl of_ Dorset 13. _Earl of_ Holland 13. _Viscount_ Andover
After the Restauration of King _Charles_ II. to his Crown and Kingdoms, when several _Knights-Companions_, both Strangers and Subjects, were to be installed, a Debate arose in the Chapter held at _White-Hall_, the 10th of _April_, _Anno_ 13 _Car._ II. about placing their Atchievements over their Stalls; upon which the following Order was issued out.
CHARLES Rex.
_Whereas divers elect Knights and Companions of our most Noble Order of the Garter are, by our special Appointment, to be installed in the Chapel of our Castle of_ Windsor, _upon the 15th Day of this Instant; and that some of them who are Strangers, do not as yet, nor are likely to appear, either in their own Persons, or by their sufficient Proxies at the said Instalment, and so might run the hazard to lose the Benefit and Advantage of their Pre-election, in Point of Rank and Precedency, in respect of some of our Subject-Knights, who, though since elected, will be first installed, without some Expedient taken therein to prevent it. There being no reason, (nor is it our intention) that those noble Persons shou’d suffer that prejudice, for want of that usual formality, and for which they are not in the fault, but others, who, according to the Statutes and ancient Custom, were to give timely Advertisement to the said Foreign elected Knights, and to Summon them by themselves or Proxies, to assist at the said Instalment: Our Will and Pleasure is, you proceed forthwith to the placing of the Hatchments of all the respective Knights and Companions of our said Order, whether installed or elect, Subject or Stranger, over the Stalls, which we do in manner as followeth assign, and appoint them in our aforesaid Chappel._
1. _The Sovereign_ 1. _Void_ 2. _The Duke of_ York 2. _The Elector Palatine_ 3. _Prince Elector of_ Brand. 3. _Prince of_ Orange 4. _Prince_ Rupert 4. _Prince_ Edward 5. _Earl of_ Salisbury 5. _Earl of_ Barkshire 6. _Earl of_ Northumberl. 6. _Duke of_ Espernon 7. _Duke of_ Ormond 7. _Duke of_ Buckingham 8. _Earl of_ Southampton 8. _Marquiss of_ Newcastle 9. _Earl of_ Bristol 9. _Prince_ Tarente 10. _Count_ Marshin 10. _Duke of_ Albermarle 11. _Earl of_ Sandwich 11. _Earl of_ Oxford 12. _Duke of_ Richmond 12. _Earl of_ Lindsey 13. _Earl of_ Manchester 13. _Earl of_ Strafford
_And for so doing, this shall be your sufficient Warrant, any Statute, or Custom, to the contrary notwithstanding: Given under the Signet of our said Order, at our Court at_ White-Hall, _the_ 10th _of_ April, 1666.
To our Trusty and Well-beloved Servant, Sir _Edward _By the Sovereign’s Command_ Walker_, Kt. Garter, and Principal King of Arms, Hen. de Vic. of our most Noble Order of the Garter.
By which we find the Stranger Princes are placed in the upper Stall, nearest the Sovereign, according to their Dignities and Degrees, and all the _Knights-Subjects_ as to the Time of their Elections. It is to be observed upon this Settlement, that though the Earl of _Southampton_ did not receive his Garter and George, till the Sovereign, upon his happy arrival in _England_, conferred it upon him with his own Hand; yet, according to the Time of the Election, Place and Precedency were allowed him; which was in _January_, _An. Dom._ 1649. in the Isle of _Jersey_, some few Days before Duke _Hamilton_ and the Marquiss of _Newcastle_ were elected.
It was ordered by the Sovereign and _Knights-Companions_, convened in Chapter on the 10th of _January_, _Anno_ 14 _Car._ II. _That thenceforward all Princes Strangers, of what Condition soever, shou’d have Precedence among themselves, according to the Seniority of their Elections and Installations_. Upon which the Sovereign, under the Signet of the Order, authorized the Garter, upon the 30th of _March_, to set up their Atchievements in St. _George_’s _Chapel_, in the Order here exhibited.
_CHARLES Rex._
1. _The Sovereign_ 1. _Void_ 2. _Duke of_ York 2. _Prince Elector Palatine_ 3. _Prince_ Rupert 3. _Prince of_ Orange 4. _Elector of_ Brandenbur. 4. _Prince of_ Denmark 5. _Earl of_ Salisbury 5. _Earl of_ Barkshire 6. _Earl of_ Northumberl. 6. _Duke of_ Ormond 7. _Duke of_ Buckingham 7. _Earl of_ Southampton 8. _Marquiss of_ Newcastle 8. _Earl of_ Bristol 9. _Prince_ Tarente 9. _Count_ Marshin 10. _Duke of_ Albermarle 10. _Earl of_ Sandwich 11. _Earl of_ Oxford 11. _Duke of_ Richmond 12. _Earl of_ Lindsey 12. _Earl of_ Manchester 13. _Earl of_ Strafford 13. _Duke of_ Monmouth
But upon mature Consideration of a Law made by _Henry_ VIII. for placing of Strangers, and for another founded by Queen _Elizabeth_ for _Knights-Subjects_; the Sovereign, by the consent of the most Noble Companions present, at a Chapter held the 19th of _November_, 1699. was pleased to Ordain, first, _That the Prince of_ Wales, _and such Emperors and Kings that shou’d be of the Order, shou’d be placed in the nearest Stalls to that of the Sovereign, according to their Elections and Installations_.
Then, _That all other Sovereign Princes, and Princes of the Blood, shou’d be placed in their Stalls next_ unto the King’s, _according to the Seniority, in the Order_. And thirdly, That all other his Majesty’s Subjects and Strangers, not of the Dignity above-mention’d, shou’d be installed in the lowest Stalls, according to their Antiquity in the Order, and the ancient Practice.
And whereas the Stall termed the Prince’s had been long vacant, the Sovereign King _Charles_ II. by the advice of the most Noble Companions, at the same Chapter, was pleased to order, _That the present King of_ Sweden _shou’d, by his Proxy, be placed in that Stall, and his Atchievements hung up thereon accordingly, in convenient Time_. Which order was strictly put in Execution, and the Stalls at the Feast of St. _George_, _Anno_ 23 _Car._ II. were thus ranged.
_CHARLES Rex._
1. _The Sovereign_ 1. _The King of_ Sweden 2. _King of_ Denmark 2. _The Duke of_ York 3. _Prince Elector Palatine_ 3. _Prince_ Rupert 4. _Prince of_ Orange 4. _Elector of_ Brandenbur. 5. _Pr. Elector of_ Saxony 5. _Duke of_ Ormond 6. _Duke of_ Buckingham 6. _Duke of_ Newcastle 7. _Earl of_ Bristol 7. _Prince_ Tarante 8. _Count_ Marshin 8. _Earl of_ Sandwich 9. _Earl of_ Oxford 9. _Duke of_ Richmond 10. _Earl of_ Strafford 10. _Duke of_ Monmouth 11. _Duke of_ Albermarle 11. _Void_ 12. _Void_ 12. _Void_ 13. _Void_ 13. _Void_
§ 7. Having dispatch’d the ancient Law of Succession into void Stalls, and of Translation from one to another; we come now to consider what is farther to be prepared for the Knight elect, against the Day of the great Solemnity, at his own Expence; the chief of which are;
1. A Mantle or upper Robe, with its Appurtenance. 2. A Collar of the Garter and Great George. 3. A Cap of black Velvet, adorned with Plumes. 4. A Helmet, Crest, Mantlings, and Sword. 5. A Banner of his Arms. 6. A Plate of his Arms and Stile. 7. A Cushion, to carry his Robes and Collar upon. 8. Lodging Escutcheons.
Though the Kirtle on the Surcoat was anciently given by the King to the _Knights-Subjects_, yet we do not find the Mantle of the Order was, nor indeed of a later Date, unless now and then, as a distinguishing mark of Favour. But the Sovereign always bestows the Mantle upon Strangers, as well as the whole Habit, when he has elected them into the Society of the Order. And upon sending of the whole Habit over by Garter to the King of _Portugal_, _Anno_ 13 _Hen._ VI. the Mantle, Surcoat, and Hood, were accompted for in the Great Wardrobe, and is to this Day practised.
However of late the Sovereign hath been pleased, now and then, to confer the Mantle upon a _Knight-Subject_. Witness King _James_ I. _Anno_ 21. did to _James_ Marquiss of _Hamilton_; and King _Charles_ I. _Anno_ 4. to _Theophilus_, Earl of _Suffolk_, and the Year ensuing to _William_, Earl of _Northampton_: And _Anno_ 14. Sir _James Palmer_, by his Sovereign’s Direction, paid for the Velvet and Taffety of the Earl of _Kelly_’s Mantle and Surcoat, to Sir _Peter Richaut_, and put it upon the Account of the extraordinary Expence of the Order.
King _Charles_ II. as a signal Mark of his Favour, caused seventeen Mantles (with the usual Liveries of Surcoat and Hood,) to be made ready against the grand Feast of St. _George_, _Anno_ 13. which he confered not only among the new elect Knights, but upon the Earls of _Salisbury_, _Barkshire_, and _Northumberland_, that were three Senior _Knights-Companions_.
The Collar of the Order, and the great George, the elect Knight is to provide himself, unless where the Sovereign is pleased to bestow the Mantle, which is always accompanied with the Collar, and then a like Warrant issues to the Master of the _Jewel-House_, as was used for providing the seventeen Collars, _Anno_ 13 _Car._ II.
The black Velvet Cap before-mentioned and described, with the Helm, Crest, and Mantlings, together with a Sword and Girdle, are to be got in readiness by the care and direction of the Garter, but at the Expence of the Knights elect; all which are to be set over his Stall, as soon as his Installation Fees are paid.
This Honour, that every _Knight-Companion_ shall have his Helm, Crest, and Sword, affixed over his Stall at the Chappel of St. _George_, is particularly provided for in all the several Bodies of Statutes; and are ordained to remain there during the Lives of the Possessors, _In Memory of him that bears them, and a Testimony of the Defence of the Church, as the Oaths of Military Orders require_.
The Helms upon this Occasion are composed of Steel, and of a more than ordinary proportion; those for Sovereign Princes are framed open, with large Barrs; but those for the _Knights-Subjects_ are made close. About King _Henry_ VIII’s Reign, the _Knights-Subjects_ Helms were parcel gilt with fine Gold in Oil, wrought with curious Works, and burnished with fine Gold. But in the Reign of Queen _Elizabeth_, and since that Time, it hath been the Custom to gild their Helms all over, and place the Arms of St. _George_ in the Middle before the Vizors.
The Mantlings that hang down on either side of the Helm, together with the Wreath, are in some places called Appendixes, and are all of Tissue, or Cloth of Gold, and formerly lined with Sarcenet; but in the Reign of Queen _Mary_ they were exchanged for white Satin, for so were the Mantlings of _Anthony Brown_, Viscount _Montague_, and _William Howard_, Lord Admiral, lined.
At the bottom of these Mantlings hang a pair of gilt Knobs burnished with Gold, from which spring out Tossels either of Gold or Silver, (consentaneous to the Metal in the Knights Court of Armour) mixed with Silk of the chief Colour in his Arms.
Upon the Helm and Mantlings, is placed a Wreath of corded Silk, of the Knight’s Colours, which was formerly of Sarcenet, but now of Taffety.
The Crest of the Knight is placed either upon these Wreaths, or Issuant out of a Crown, or Ducal Cap, turned with Ermin; and of what kind soever the Crest is, the same is neatly carved in Wood, and either gilt, or wrought in; Directly before the Helm, an armed Sword hangs down, the Pomel, Cross, and Chape are gilt; the Scabbard is made of the same Tissue or Cloth of Gold as the Mantlings are, as is the Girdle that belongs to it; but the Buckles and Pendants are of Copper Gilt.
The Custom of setting up the Helm, Crest, and Sword, over the Stall of the Knights, is as ancient as the Institution of the Order; but when the Banners were first hung up, we have not so clear a Conviction; for neither the Statutes of Institution, nor those of _Henry_ V. make mention of them.
The first time they occur to us, we find to be in _Anno_ 2 _Hen._ VI. in the black Book of the Order, where the Banners of the King of _Portugal_ is particularly spoke of, among the Atchievements then set over the Stall. But they are more particularly mentioned in the Body of King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes.
The Fashion of the Sovereign’s and all the _Knights-Companions_ Banners are square; yet it does no where appear what the exact Standard was; yet we find them in the Reign of Queen _Elizabeth_ to be two Yards and a Quarter Long, and a Yard and three Quarters Broad, besides the Fringe, which is composed of Gold, or Silver and Silk, of the Colours in the Wreath; and on them are wrought, upon Taffety-Sarcenet, double Sarcenet, or rich Taffety, with fine Gold Colours on both sides, the Paternal Coat of the _Knights-Companion_, together with his Quartering, or so many of them as he pleases to use, and the Garter is to take care they be warrantably Marshalled.