Part 18

BY the last Article of King _Henry_ VIII’s. Statutes, it was allowed to be enriched at the Pleasure of the Possessor, (as is the great George) which for the most Part hath been curiously enamell’d, and the Garter about it sett with Diamonds. And of what weight and bigness these lesser _George_’s were, may be gather’d from that sent to the French King _Charles_ IX. being an Ounce and an half and half quarter Weight. The Variety of Workmanship in those Gold Chains whereat this Jewel hung, was usually great, according to the Fancy and Pleasure of the Persons for whom they were wrought. But within a short Space, wearing the lesser George in Silk-Ribbands, as well as Gold-Chains, was promiscuously us’d and _ad Libitum_. (So were the Symbols of Foreign Orders, as divers Coins and Medals declare.) But the Colour of these Ribbands when they came first to be wore, was black. _John Dudley_ Viscount _Lisle_, the Lords St. _John_ and _Parr_, so used them at their Investiture, 35 _Henry_ VIII. and several Pictures of other Knights-Companions about that time confirm the same. That small Chain whereat hung the lesser _George_ transmitted to _Emanuel_ of _Savoy_, _Ann._ 1 & 2 _Ph._ & _Mar._ was formed of twelve Pieces of Gold, in every of which was sett three small Diamonds, and of twelve other like Pieces, wherein were three Rubies and twenty four Pearls.

IT appears by a Letter of Sir _Richard_ St. _George_, Kt. _Clarencieux_, dated _July_ 10th, 1627. that the blue Ribband had some Years before been additional to the Ornament of the Order; and ’tis reported, that _Robert_ Earl of _Essex_ observing in _France_ the Jewels of the Order of St. _Michael_ and St. _Esprit_ worn in blue Ribbands, upon his return was the principal motive those Ribbands whereat the _George_ hung, were exchanged into that Colour. And in a Picture of Queen _Elizabeth_, drawn towards the Declension of her Reign, her lesser George is represented hanging before her Breast in a blue Ribband. And this Colour was more caressed, and grew in great repute, by reason it was the Ground of the Garter, and nearest the Colour of the Mantle of the Order: So that toward the latter End of the Reign of King _James_ I. because the dye of the Ribband had not been peculiarly express’d in any Statute, and the blue and azure accustomed for some Years past, it was decreed, That for the future it should be always of blue, and no other; nor in time of Mourning it self, should be changed.

THE Manner of wearing this Ribband in time of Peace, was of later Times pendant about the Neck, down to the Middle of the Breast, where the lesser George hung; but since, for the more Conveniency of Riding or Action, the same is spread over the left Shoulder, and brought under the right Arm where the Jewel hangs.

BUT where the Pictures of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions are drawn in Armour, there even to this Day the George is represented as fix’d to a Gold Chain instead of a blue Ribband, and worn about the Neck, not brought under the right Arm, as exhibited on the three Pound Pieces of Gold stamped at _Oxford_ by King _Charles_ I. 1643. and a Medal of _Charles_ Count Palatine of the _Rhine_, dated 1645.

AMONG the invaluable Jewels and other Curiosities of King _Charles_ I. which came to the Hands of the Trustees appointed for Sale of his Goods, were these,

_l. s. d._

A George containing 161 Diamonds, Sold for 71 2 0

A George cut in Onyx, with 41 Diamonds } in the Garnish, } 37 0 0

A small George with a few Diamonds 9 0 0

A George with 5 Rubies and 3 Diamonds, } and 11 Diamonds in a Box } 11 0 0

A George cut in a Garnet 8 0 0 ------- Total 136 2 0 -------

THE George King _Charles_ I. had at his Martyrdom, was curiously Engraved in an Onyx set about with twenty One large Table-Diamonds in the Fashion of a Garter. On the reverse of the said George was the Picture of the Queen set in a Case of Gold, the Lid neatly enamell’d with Goldsmith’s Work, and surrounded with another Garter adorned with an equal Number of Diamonds, as was that of King _Charles_ II. also sett with fair Diamonds; and after the Defeat given to the _Scotch_ Forces at _Worcester_, 4 _Car._ II. was strangely preserved by Colonel _Blague_, one of that King’s dispersed Attendants, who resigned it for safety to the Wife of Mr. _Barlow_ of _Blare-Pipe-House_ in _Stafford-shire_, where he took Sanctuary; from whom _Robert Milward_ Esq; receiv’d and gave it into the Hands of Mr. _Isaac Walton_, (all Loyalists.) It came again to _Blague_’s Possession, then Prisoner in the Tower; whence making his escape, he restor’d it to King _Charles_ II.

IT is worthy of Remark, that besides the Sovereign of the most Noble Order of the Garter, other Princes of Christendom have assumed the bearing St. _George_ encountring the Dragon in like Posture, tho’ not so anciently, nor upon the same Grounds and Foundation as they; probably having elected him Patron and Guardian of their Countries or Families; such as the Emperors of _Russia_, the Dukes of _Mantua_, and the Counts _Mansfield_ in _Germany_, as their Seals and Coins plainly demonstrate.

IN the Great Seal of _Borice Feodorwicke_, Emperour of _Russia_ affixed to his Letter sent to Queen _Elizabeth_, dated at _Mosco_, _June_ 12th, 1602, was a double Headed Eagle displaid, having each Head crowned, and bearing an Eschutcheon with the Representation of St. _George_ upon its Breast. There is another of this Emperour’s Great Seals, fixed to his Letter, dated _May_ 31st. 1594. which he also sent to Queen _Elizabeth_. On one side is the above-said Eagle, having on his Breast an Escutcheon charged with an Horse currant; the Reverse the Figure of St. _George_ encountring the Dragon with his Spear. The Great Seal of _Alexie Michaelowich_, Emperour of _Russia_, affixed to his Letters sent King _Charles_ II. 1660. hath a like Eagle with a third Crown situated between the two Heads, and bearing in a Cartouch-Compartment upon his Breast, the Figure of St. _George_: Which Representation of St. _George_ and the Dragon, we find assigned for Arms, to _Anne de Russie_, Daughter to _Jarislaus_ King of _Russia_ and _Muscovia_, given in Espousal to _Henry_ I. King of _France_, 1051. and thus Blazon’d, _D’in St._ Marthe _de Gueules, a un homme a Cheval, d’argent, tenant une Lance en la main, qu’il darde en la gueule d’un Dragon renverse_.

THE Counts of _Mansfield_ have frequently stamp’d it on their Coin. On one side is St. _George_ encountring the Dragon with his Sword, with this Circumscription, _Sanct. Geo. Co. do. de Man._ on the reverse, his Arms circumscribed, _Mon. de Arc. Co. do. de Man._ Of those of the Dukes of _Mantua_, we may see one of _Vincentius_ Duke of _Mantua_ and _Montferat_, a Knight of the Order of the _Golden Fleece_, wherein is his Effigies to the Breast, _Vinc. D. G. Dux MANT._ III. _MONTFERU._ on the Reverse St. _George_ and the Dragon, Motto, _Protector nostra aspic._ 1591. and _Casal_ at the Bottom.

§ 10. _When the Habit or part of it ought to be worn is the next thing we shall speak of._

THE more solemn Days and Occasions which require a fuller conformity, and the wearing the whole Habit, _i. e._ the Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, Collar, Great George, and Cap, are first, The High Festival of the Order, commonly called St. _George_’s Feast, whether it be solemnized on the 22d, 23d or 24th of _April_, annually, or any other Days within the Year by Prorogation, as is apparent by all the Bodies of the Statutes.

FOR, First it is ordained, That the Knights-Companions should be Arrayed in the whole Habit on the Eve of St. _George_, before the Sovereign proceeded to the Chapter to hear Divine Service, and being so Robed, should attend on the Sovereign to the Chapter-House, thence to the Chapel, and return with him back in the same manner, until after Supper, as well those that minded to Sup, as those that should not Sup; nor might they disrobe, until the Sovereign or his Deputy had put off his, or declar’d it seasonable for his or their doing so.

BY the same Statute they were enjoined to wear the whole Habit on the Feast of St. _George_, both at their Progression in the Morning to the Chapter-House or Chapel, at their return to Dinner from thence to the Second Vespers, and back to Supper, as also till Supper was over, and until the Sovereign or his Lieutenant took leave of the rest of the Knights-Companions.

_Secondly_, IT is manifest from King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes, That the Eve, the Day of St. _George_, and Morrow following, were to be observed with solemn Service, and holding of Chapters wheresoever the Sovereign was resident; tho’ the Grand Feast were Prorogued to a longer Duration; and when by reason of such Prorogation, they should convene in any Place besides _Windsor_ to attend the Sovereign for the Solemnization of St. _George_’s Day, they then must Adorn themselves with the whole Habit from beginning of the first Vespers, until the last Evening Service of the same Day.

_Thirdly_, ON such other Days of the Year whereon the Grand Feast is held by Prorogation, and during such Part of the Eve and Day of the Feast, as is before appointed when it is held on its proper Day.

_Fourthly_, BY absent Knights, whensoever the Grand Feast of St. _George_ should be celebrated, and wheresoever they should happen at that time to reside, (if at Liberty, and not under restraint) to keep it in like manner as if then present with the Sovereign, or his Deputy in the Place where he should Celebrate the Feast. The time of wearing the whole Habit in this Point extends but to the End of the second Vespers, as in the second Instance above.

_Fifthly_, THE Knights-Companions are to wear the entire Habit at the Feasts of Installation when they assist at that Ceremony; where, if it commence in the Evening, they are not to disrobe themselves till after Supper; and being the next Morning habited as before, then to proceed to the Chapter-House or Chapel, and not to devest themselves till Dinner is ended.

THE less solemn Occasions are those, which require the wearing the Mantle or Collar of the Order only.

AND they are first, upon the Morrow after the Grand Feast-Day, when the Sovereign and Knights-Companions proceed to the Chapel, and make their Offering; then it sufficeth, that they barely put on the Mantle, which, Service being Finished, they were wont to leave it at the Chapter-House-Door as they retired out of the Chapel.

_Secondly_, AS often as Chapters are called, and in what Place soever assembled, either for Elections, or other Causes, as it shall please the Sovereign to nominate: And as often as it is requisite for the Sovereign, or any of the Knights-Companions to enter into the Chapel of St. _George_ at _Windsor_; and in reference hereunto, is the Article 15 _E._ 3. was that their Mantles should remain in the Vestry at _Windsor_, that upon any sudden emergency, they might be in readiness: for in the Inventory of the Chapel taken 8 _R._ 2. we find remaining at that time in the Vestry, a Mantle appertaining to the Sovereign, another to _John_ Duke of _Britain_, a third to _John Holland_ Earl of _Huntington_, another to _Edmund Langley_ Earl of _Cambridge_, and one to _Thomas Holland_, Earl of _Kent_, all of them then surviving: And by a Decree past at the Grand Feast 1 _H._ 6. the Mantle of the young Sovereign was appointed to be left at _Windsor_, as the Statutes required; and this Article was confirmed by King _Henry_ VIII. by Virtue whereof, the Mantles of the Emperor _Charles_ V. and _Anna_ Duke of _Montmorency_, were left in the Custody of the Dean and Canons of _Windsor_. And heretofore in the Bill of drawing up Matters necessary for the Installation of a Knight-Companion, there were usually two Mantles set down; one expressed to be left in the College, and the other for all other Occasions that might intervene.

THESE Mantles thus ordered to be reposed in the College upon emergent Occasions, were anciently committed to the Custody of the Black-Rod, as granted by Letters Patent with the Office 1 _H._ 5. And after the Death of the Owners, devolved to the Dean and Canons of _Windsor_, either for the publick Use of the Knights-Companions when they casually came to _Windsor_, or else sold sometimes to the Heirs of the Deceased, or others who succeeded in the Order, as that of _Charles_ V. was to the Earl of _Bedford_, and that of the Constable of _France_ lent to the Earl of _Warwick_, _Ann._ 7 _Eliz._ which appears from the Accounts of the Chanter of the College, _temp. H._ 4. _H._ 5. _H._ 8. Q. _Eliz._ and _Jac._ 1. who in all times answered the full Benefit thereof to the College, as being a certain Perquisite to the Dean and Canons, which they accordingly had and enjoyed.

AND yet we find some of the College made over-bold with the Robe of _Sigismond_ the Emperour, and sold it while he surviv’d. But the Archbishop of _York_, who, as Chancellor of _England_, visited the College, 1431. secured the Money from being distributed among those that sold it, and reserved the Dividend to the Dean and Chapter that should chance to be living at that Emperour’s Expiration; and commanded for the Future under Pain of Excommunication, That no Dean and Canon should imbezil or aliene any Knights-Companion’s Mantle while he was alive, but the same should be decently and faithfully kept and preserved. But we are informed, that this Statute was altered, _Ann._ 9 _Eliz._ and one drawn up to this effect, _That the Knights-Companions should be bound by Oath to take care by their Wills, that after their Decease, all the Ornaments which they had received should be restored, the Robes to the College, and the Jewels to the Sovereign that gave them_.

IN the last Place, the Times of wearing the Collar of the Order, with the Great _George_ appendant, which is not only enjoined to be worn (as part of the Habit) at the grand Feasts and Feasts of Installation, but also at other times when not any of the rest of the Habit is ordered (saving the Garter) is to be worn, as in special, _at the principal and solemn Feasts of the Year_, and other Feast-Days: To which a particular Order in Chapter, _Ann._ 4 _Eliz._ thus directs,

The Holy-days and Sundays within the twelve Days. St. _Matthias_ Day. Holydays in _Easter_-Week. St. _Mark_’s Day. St. _Philip_ and _Jacob_’s Day. Holy-days in _Whitsun_-Week. St. _Peter_’s Day. St. _James_’s Day. St. _Bartholomew_. St. _Matthew_. St. _Luke_. St. _Simon_ and _Jude_. St. _Andrew_. St. _Thomas_.

BESIDES these, the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions have been accustomed to wear this Ensign upon the Anniversary of the Sovereign’s Coronation, of the _Gun-Powder Treason_, and, of later Times, on the Sovereign’s Birth-day: So formerly upon some occasional Ceremonies not relative to the Order; as when a Knight-Companion hath been created into Titles of Dignity and Honour, he had the Collar of the Garter added to his Investiture, as appears in the Case of _Henry Stafford_, created Earl of _Wiltshire_, _Ann._ 1 _Hen._ 8. And at a Chapter held _May_ 22d. 1622. That such Knights-Companions as should afterwards assist at the Funeral of any Knight-Companion, should wear the Collar _apert_ at the said Funeral. And it was so observed by the Dukes of _Ormond_ and _Richmond_, the Earls of _Manchester_ and _Sandwich_, at the Obsequies of _George Monk_ Duke of _Albemarle_.

Howbeit, the Custom is otherwise as to wearing the Garter, the principal Ensign of the Order; for tho’ it be injoyned to be wore at the grand Festivals, _&c._ yet it does not imply that it might be left off: For indeed it ought daily to be worn both by the Sovereign and Knights Companions. And therefore was it decreed even in its Institution, That if any Knight-Companion should in publick be found without one buckled about his Leg, upon Challenge he should be mulct a Noble to the Dean and College of _Windsor_. By King _Henry_ VIII. the Fine was raised a Mark, payable as before to any of the five Officers of the Order, or to the Dean; besides which Fine, the Knight lies liable to a Check. But to alleviate the Strictness, and obviating other Inconveniencies, King _Henry_ V. admitted of a Qualification; and in case of riding with Boots, ordained, That it might suffice if the Knight-Companion wore some Ribband or Silk-Lace to represent the Garter; tho’ in this very Article there is a Proviso, That no Knight-Companion should enter into Chapter, without his Garter buckled about the Leg.

In short, King _Henry_ VIII. ordained, That the Gold-Chain whereat the lesser _George_ (in that Age) hung, should be worn all other days in the Year, except the Principal and Solemn Feasts, whereon the great Collar was ordained to be worn, and except in time of War, Sickness, or long Voyage, in any of which Cases, a Silk-Lace or Ribband, with the Image of St. _George_ thereat, was sufficient; and the blue Ribband having since succeeded in Place of the Gold Chain, the Injunction of this Statute extends to it in all particulars.

CAP. VIII.

§ 1. CONCERNING the Officers appointed for the service of the Order, to give it a greater degree and augmentation of Honour, the Founder constituted a _Prelate_, _Register_ and _Usher_, assigning them several Duties. Some of his Successors added the _Chanchellor_ and _Garter_, and all of them Sworn to be of the Council of the Order; among these the _Prelate_ and _Chanchellor_ are usually nominated the Principal, the other three the inferiour Officers of the Order.

IN this Chapter we shall give some account of their Institution, Oath, Habit, Ensigns, Privileges and Pensions; for as to the nature of their Offices and their Duties, they are for the general, Recorded in the Black Book, under the Title _Constutiones ad Officiales Ordinis [Garterij] peculiariter attinentes_, &c. Upon the Establishment, _Anno_ 13. _Hen._ VIII. 1521. and annex’d to his Statutes, and more particularly their Duties, will occur in several places of the ensuing Discourse, where they properly fall in to be Treated of, as follows;

THE Prelate is the first and primier Officer, and in the Founders Statutes, call’d _Prælatus Ordinis_; and that the then Bishop of _Winchester_, _William de Edyngton_ was the first Prelate is very obvious from thence; he is an Officer of Honour only, and hath neither Pension nor Fees allowed him by the said Constitutions; this Office is vested in the Bishop of _Winchester_, for the time being; and from the Annals of the Order it’s manifest his Successors have continued Prelates to this Day, except the interruption only of a few Months, _Anno_ 7. _Ed._ 6. immediately after the publishing this King’s Statutes; wherein the other Four Officers were constituted anew, to attend the Order, but the Prelate wholly laid by.

WHAT high reputation this See hath been favour’d with, may be collected from an Act of Parliament, 31. _Hen._ VIII. concerning the Placing of the Lords in Parliament Chamber, and other Assemblies and Conferences of Council, whereby this Bishop had Place assigned him next to the Bishop of _Durham_, who hath place by that Act, next the Archbishop of _York_; tho’ before in respect of the prehemenence of this noble Order, he had precedence and Place granted above all Bishops, and next unto the Arch-Bishops. At that Officers admittance he is oblig’d to take an Oath in the presence of the Soveraign or his Lieutenant, which consists of these particulars.

1. _To be present in all Chapters, whereunto he is Summoned._

2. _To report all things truly without Favour or Fear._

3. _To take the Scrutiny faithfully, and present it to the Sovereign._

4. _To keep secret, and not disclose the Councils of the Order._

5. _To promote and maintain the Honour of it._

6. _To withstand and reveal what is designed to the contrary._

THIS Oath is read in Chapter, by the Register of the Order, the Gentleman-Usher of the Black-Rod, holding the Book, whilst the Prelate Kneels between the Sovereign’s Knees.

Of the ROBE.

AS the Knights-Companions had their Surcoats bestowed on them, at the Sovereigns charge, and therefore called the Kings Livery, so had the Officers of the Order their Liveries or Robes out of the Sovereign’s Wardrobe, and in particular the Prelate of the Order: For in the Rolls of the great Wardrobe, we find that _William de Edyngton_ had allow’d him for his Robe of the Sovereign’s Livery, against the Feast of St. _George_, Anno 37. _Ed._ III. one Cloth of Sanguine grain, and a large quantity of Furs for trimming it up: And we find this Robe so assigned the Prelate to be of the sute or colour of the Knights-Companions Surcoats the same Year, _viz._ Sanguine in grain, and that he had a great allowance of Furr; for his being a Mantle was larger than any of the Knights Surcoats, tho’ they are both call’d by the same name _Roba_ in the Rolls of the Wardrobe, _Anno_ 7. _Rich._ II. _William de Wyckham_ then Prelate had the same allowance, one Cloth of Violet in grain and other Materials. But the Discrimination was in the Bellies of Minevers, whose Number was now much encreased, and that the same allowance was bestowed on him in the 11th and 19th Years of the said King. But in these three Instances the Colour of the Cloth was different, and suitable to the Knights-Companions Surcoats, those very Years, _viz._ Violet in grain, White and Blue, and _Anno_ 12. _Hen._ VI. the Robe of _Henry Beaufort_, Cardinal and Prelate was White, as then were the Surcoats of the Knights-Companions, whence it is evident the Livery formerly allowed the Prelate annually varied in Colour, as did the Knights-Companions Surcoats.

IN that ancient Precedent of the Liveries of the Garter, remaining in the great Wardrobe, wherein the Surcoats of the Knights-Companions are reduced to a Stated proportion in the measure of the Cloth, number of Furs and Garters, modeled out according to their state degrees, there the Prelate hath the following allowance for his Livery,

24 Yards of Woollen Cloth. 18 Timber pur } Minever. 18 Timber gross.} 3 Timber de Biss.