Part 17

§ 5. HAVING finish’d our Discourse concerning the Robes of the Order, we shall speak of the Robes and Hoods assign’d to the Queen, Knights-Companions Wives, and other great Ladies, by the Donation of the Sovereigns, set off and embellished with Minute Garters, and lin’d with Rich Furs, which Robes they were adorn’d with during the Solemnity of the Feast of St. _George_, a Custom almost as ancient as its Institution. The first Mention we find recorded of the Feminine Habit occurs, _Anno_ 7. _R._ II. when the Queen, the Sovereign’s Mother, the Dutchess of _Lancaster_, the Countesses of _Cambridge_, _Buckingham_, _Pembroke_, _Oxford_, and _Salisbury_, the Ladies _Philippa_ and _Catherine_, Daughters to the Duke of _Lancaster_, and the Lady _Mohun_ had such kind of Robes and Hoods provided for them. They were made of Cloth, Violet in Grain, like as the Sovereign and Knights-Companions that Year, the Robes lin’d with Fur, but the Hoods with Scarlet, and both embroidered over with little Garters, and the Proportion of Cloth, Furs, and Garters, were stated according to their several Ranks and Degrees; for the Queen had Eight Ells, and Half an Ell of Scarlet for the Lining of her Hood. The Sovereign’s Mother had allow’d her one whole Piece, and a double Proportion of Scarlet; but from the large Quantity it is conceiv’d she had Two Robes and Hoods made at this time: Besides, the particular Number are but Eleven Persons, and cannot else reach the Total of the Robes that were made up and expressly set down to be Twelve. The Dutchess of _Lancaster_ had the Allowance of Half a Piece, and Half an Ell of Scarlet; the Countess of _Cambridge_ Seven Ells of Cloth and Half an Ell of Scarlet, and the rest of the Ladies the same Proportion of Cloth with the Knights-Companions, _i. e._ each Five Ells a-piece, and Half an Ell of Scarlet. According to their Cloth was also their Proportion of Minever; the Queen’s Allowance was Two Furs, each containing Three Hundred Bellies of pure Minever; the Sovereign’s Mother had twice that Proportion, the Dutchess of _Lancaster_, and Countess of _Cambridge_ had the same Allowance as the Queen; but all the rest of the Ladies had only one Fur of Two Hundred Bellies. Besides the embroidered Garters to deck out the Twenty-four Surcoats of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions, and the Twelve Robes for the Queen, and other Ladies, amounted to the Number of 2900.

AGAINST the Feast of St. _George_, _Anno._ 11. _R._ II. there were prepared Fifteen Robes and Hoods for the Queen and other Ladies, of the same Livery and suit with the Sovereign and Knights-Companions, _viz._ White long Cloth, and Blue Cloth for the Lining of their Hoods, bearing the same Proportion in all Things as the former, _Anno_ 13. _Rich._ II. the Ladies Robes and Hoods were Sanguine Cloth, and the Lining of their Hoods Cloth in Grain. And in the 19th _Rich._ II. they were Blue Cloth, and long Cloth in Grain for Lining their Hoods. In both these Years we find the Dutchess of _Aquitaine_ had double the Proportion of Cloth allow’d her (as had also the Dutchess of _York_) _viz._ Fourteen Ells, (the Queen having then but the former Allowance of Eight Ells) and yet her Proportion of Lining, both for the Robe and Hood, was no more than allow’d the Queen.

BUT _Anno_ 1 _Henry_ V. the same Quantities of Cloth, Minevers, and Garters, were the same to Ladies of all Degrees, and that was to each Five Ells of White Woollen Cloth, only the Queen-Mother had Eight Ells of White Cloth and Eight Ells of Black Cloth, a Fee containing Two Hundred Bellies of Minever, and an Hundred embroidered Garters, and 12 _Henry_ VI. the Master of the great Wardrobe was commanded to make ready the like Livery, both for Colour of Cloth, number of Ells, Bellies of Minever, and Garters, for the Countess of _Suffolk_, against the approaching Feast of St. _George_.

A plainer Narrative is made of these Liveries, _Anno_ 16 _Edw._ IV. when at the Feast of St. _George_ at _Windesor_, the Queen, the Lady _Elizabeth_, the King’s Daughter, and Dutchess of _Suffolk_, the King’s Sister, had for their Livery Murrey Gowns embroidered with Garters.

BESIDES these Robes worn by the Ladies at the Festivals of the Order, there seems to be some Imitation of wearing a Garter also on their Left Arms, as the Knights did on their Left Leg, as it is observ’d on the Countess of _Tankervile_’s Monument, where she is so pourtray’d.

AFTER a long Disuse of these Robes, _Anno_ 14 _Car._ I. there was an endeavour to restore it; for the Deputy Chancellor sollicited the Sovereign in Chapter, That the Ladies of the Knights-Companions might be granted the Privilege to wear a Garter of the Order about their Arms, and an upper Robe at Festival Times, according to ancient Usage, upon which Motion the Sovereign gave Order that the Queen’s Pleasure should be known herein, and the Affair left to the Ladies particular Request, and the Year ensuing, upon the Deputy Chancellor’s Report at another Chapter at _Windesor_, it was then left to a Chapter to be called by the Knights-Companions, to preponderate of every Circumstance, how it were fittest to be effected for the Honour and Lustre of the Order; which was appointed to be held at _London_ about _All-hollantide_ next; But the unhappy War breaking out, this Matter entirely broke off.

§ 6. THERE remains now the Collar and _George_, brought in by King _Henry_ VIII. And first, of Collars in general, which is an Ornament not of late, but ancient Invention, and the wonderful Consent of most Nations plead for it: Sacred Writ sets down the Collar of Gold for one of the Ornaments _Pharaoh_ conferr’d upon _Joseph_. The Images of _Isis_ and _Osiris_ were represented with such like Collars, in a manner, extending to their Shoulders, as _Kircher_ informs us. Their Workmanship seems wonderfully curious, being intersected with various Lines, and divided with Tablets and precious Stones. The Collar was of an illustrious Original among the _Romans_, and gave Denomination to the Family of _Torquati_, descended from _L. Manlius_, whom the Soldiers surnam’d _Torquatus_, because he fought with a Champion of the _Gauls_, _Anno V. C._ 392. and, having foil’d him in fight, cut off his Head, and then pluck’d off his Collar, bloody as it was, and put it about his own Neck. In further Memory of which Action were found several _Roman_ Coins referring to _L. Torquatus_, Consul with _L. Cotta_, _Anno V. C._ 688. And it’s remarkable that when one of another Tribe was adopted into this Family, he did also assume this Badge of Honour, as in the Coin of _D. Junius Silanus_, tho’ the Fashion of the Work somewhat differ’d from the former.

IN pristine Times none but Kings and Princes wore Collars, and therefore their Use seems of Dignity and Power, as is evident from _Daniel_, where the _Assyrian_ Kings used this Ornament. Afterwards Men famous for Wisdom and Council, had them as a distinguishing Badge, as in the Example of _Joseph_, and from the Proclamation of _Belshazzar_ King of _Babylon_, who proposed it as a Præmium to him that could interpret the Hand-Writing upon the Wall. And Men famous for Military Atchievements had it conferr’d upon them, in Recompence of their Merits; thus Collars were of the Number of the _Dona & Præmia Militaria_ among the _Romans_, and the Honour of receiving them thought worthy to be consign’d to Posterity in Marble Inscriptions. From them the later Emperors receiv’d it, and we read of investing a Knight of the _Holy Sepulchre_ with a Collar at his Creation; where, as soon as the Ceremony of his Ordination is over, the Padre Guardian Kisses the new Made Knight, and puts about his Neck (according to the mode of the Ancients) a Golden Collar, with a Cross hanging at it.

MOST aptly therefore have the Sovereigns of Military Orders annex’d this Ornament of the Collar to their Habit, and conferr’d it on the Fellows and Companions, many of whom have meritoriously deserv’d it for their great Wisdom and valorous Exploits, and for this reason it was instituted in additional Glory to the Ensigns of the Garter, compos’d in a peculiar manner, in Relation to the Name and Title; to the wearing of which the Sovereign oblig’d both himself and Knights-Companions, and his and their Successors.

THIS Collar was ordain’d to be of Gold Thirty Ounces Troy weight, but not to exceed it; howbeit that Collar sent to _Gustavus Adolphus_, King of _Sweden_, weigh’d Thirty-four Ounces and a Quarter, and that of King _Charles_ I. 35 Ounces and an Half; which, after his Sufferings, fell into the Hands of _Thomas Harrison_, one of _Oliver_’s Major-Generals, and was by him delivered to the Trustees for Sale of the King’s Goods: They, 1649. sent it to the _Mint_, with divers of the _Regalia_, to set the Stamp on work for the first Gold that the upstart Common-wealth coin’d.

IT was appointed by King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes, that this Collar should be compos’d of Pieces of Gold in Fashion of Garters, the Ground enamelled Blue, and the Letters of the Motto Gold; in the midst of each Garter, Two Roses plac’d, the innermost enamelled Red, and the outermost White, contrarily in the next Garter, the innermost Rose enamelled White, and the outermost Red, and so alternately; but of later Times these Roses are wholly Red.

THE Number of these Garters are so many as be the ordain’d Number of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions; at the Institution they were Twenty-six, being fasten’d together with as many Knots of Gold, and this Mode hitherto has continu’d invariable; nor ought the Collar to be adorn’d or enrich’d with precious Stones, (as the _George_ may be) such being prohibited by the Law of the Order.

AT the Middle of the Collar before pendant, at the Table of one of the Garters in the Collar is to be fix’d the Image of St. _George_ arm’d sitting on Horseback, who having thrown the Dragon on his Back encounters him with a Tilting-Spear. This Jewel is not encompass’d with a Garter or Row of Diamonds, as in the lesser _George_; but in round Relief. It is allow’d to be beautified and sett off with Diamonds and other Enrichments, at the Pleasure of the Knight-Companion who possessed it, and upon that Score it hath been frequently adorn’d with Variety of costly Work, whereon the Diamonds, and other precious Stones, being set to that Advantage as might, upon its Motion and Agitation, dart forth a resplendent Lustre.

BEFORE the Establishment of this Article by King _Henry_ VIII. it appears that the Knights-Companions were invested with Collars at their Installations, for the Black Book makes mention of a Collar among the Ensigns of the Garter, wherewith _Philip_ King of _Castile_ was invested, _Anno_ 22 _Henry_ VII. but whether a Collar of SS’s, or of another Model, is not specifi’d: Nevertheless this Scruple is in part clear’d up by an old Memorial of the Ceremonies, at the Creating _Henry_ Lord _Stafford_ Earl of _Wiltshire_, 1 _Henry_ VIII. where it is said in the Annals, that after he was invested with the Robes of his State and Dignity, the Collar of the Garter was put about his Neck at constituting him a Knight of the Order. And to make it more conspicuous in a Vellum Book of the Statutes sent to _Maximilian_ the Emperor, sign’d 1508. by the Register _T. Rowthale_, and in another of _Edward Stanley_ Lord _Monteagle_, elected _ann._ 6. _Hen._ VIII. the Forty First Article, enjoins a Collar to be worn by each Knight-Companion expresly called the Collar of the Order, which tho’ it be not in all Respects consentient to that prescribed by King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes, yet there is not much Variation, and ’tis reported to be a _Gold Collar coupled together by several Pieces of Links, in Fashion of Garters, with a Vermilion Rose, and the Image of St._ George _hung thereat_. The Reason of the Knights-Companions wearing it at the Times appointed, the License for putting it to mending, the Command not to enrich the Collar, but the _George_ only; and under a Penalty not to sell, pawn or alienate it upon any Necessity whatsoever, are wholly the same as was afterwards enjoyn’d by King _Henry_ VIII. So that he did but only annex to his Body of Statutes a Decree, which for the greatest part had been put in practise before. In the 11th _Hen._ VIII. upon Interpretation of the Eleventh Article of the Statutes, the Collar is there enumerated as part of the entire Robes that a Knight-Companion is oblig’d to wear, for a more convincing Proof, That the Collar of Garters was used before King _Henry_ VIII’s Reign, the Monument of Sir _Giles Daubeny_ plainly Delineates (who departed 22 _Henry_ VII.) in _Westminster-Abbey_, where his Portraicture in the Robes of the Order is adorned with such a Collar as King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes do afterwards describe.

AS the Garter sent to _Gustavus Adolphus_ King of _Sweden_, so the great _George_ (pendant at his Collar weighing Seven Ounces) was set with large and resplendent Diamonds, to the Number of Eighty-Four.

IN what Regard this Noble Ensign of Honour the Collar, hath been with the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, not only of the Order of the _Garter_, but other Military Orders, may be collected from the Pictures of some of them, as well as from their Seals, Coins, and Medals, for in these they have been pleased to exhibit their Effigies and Escutcheons of Arms; and omitting Foreign Examples, the Collars, both of the _Garter_ and _Thistle_, were express’d in the Coronation Medal of King _Charles_ I. in _Scotland_, 1633. tho’ in that of his Coronation at _Westminster_, and afterwards in that of King _Charles_ II. 1661. the Collar of the Order of the _Garter_ are only put over their Royal Robes.

THESE Ornaments of the Collars, have been affix’d sometimes encircling the Shields of their Arms; and in a Seal of _Charles the Bold_ Duke of _Burgundy_, Sovereign of the Order of the _Golden Fleece_, plac’d to an Instrument dated, 1470. it is worthy of Remark, that Collar adorns the Neck of the Lyon of _Flanders_; but the Sovereigns of the _Garter_ usually encompass’d their Arms, not within the Collar of the Order, but the Royal Garter, that being its principal Ensign; and sometimes, having no Shield of Arms, the void Space within the Garter, exhibits their Arms.

OBSERVABLE is the Seal of _Charles_ Count _Palatine_ of the _Rhine_, wherein is a Shield quarterly of the _Palatinate_ and _Bavaria_, obscuring the Lyon Guardant its Supporter, his Four SS’s only appearing quadrangularly, and his Head a top ensign’d with an Electoral Crown; this Shield is encircled both within the Garter and Collar of the Order, and is the first Example wherein both these Ensigns are jointly together. It is very frequent to express the Collars of different Orders together: Thus I have seen the Arms of _Robert Dudley_ Earl of _Leicester_, entour’d within the Garter, and a Collar of the Order of St. _Michael_, having been Knight of these Orders, and the Funeral Atchievement of the late _James Hamilton Douglas_ Duke of _Hamilton_, had the Garter and a Collar of the Thistle about it. And in a Plate under the Effigies of the Duke of _Aspernons_, a Shield of his Arms quarter’d, is encompass’d with the chiefest Ensigns of those Three Orders, whereof he was a Brother and Companion, _viz._ with the Garter and the Collars of St. _Michael_ and the _Holy Ghost_. And the older the Order is in the Roll of Antiquity, whose chief Ensign is there represented, the nearer ought it to be plac’d to the Escutcheon of Arms, being the more Honourable Post. A Mistake was committed in the marshalling these Collars, when the Duke of _Chevereux_ affixed it over his Stall at _Windsor_, the Collars of St. _Mithael_ and the _Holy Ghost_ are plac’d nearer to his Escutcheon than that of the Garter.

§ 8. AND whereas we have spoke of another kind of Collar, call’d a Collar of SS’s, worn as Badges of lower and inferior Honour, it will not be amiss to inform our Judgment in other Affairs concerning them. _Wicelius_ informs us from a Book in the Library of _Fulda_, where (in the Life of the Two Brothers _Simplicius_ and _Faustinus_, both Senators, and suffer’d Martyrdom under _Dioclesian_) there is a Description of the Society of St. _Simplicius_, consisting of Noble Personages in their own Families, and describing the Collar wore as the Badge of it says, thus: _It was the Custom of those Persons to wear about their Necks Silver Collars, compos’d of double SS’s, which denote the Name of Saint_ Simplicius, _between these double SS’s. The Collar consisted of Twelve small Plates of Silver, in which were engraven the Twelve Articles of the Creed, together with a single Trefoil: The Image of St._ Simplicius _hung at the Collar, and from it Seven Plates, representing the Seven Gifts of the Holy Ghost. As to the manner of their Martyrdom, they were bound together by the Neck to a Stone, and thrown over the Bridge into the River_ Tyber.

AT what Time the Collar of SS’_s_ came into _England_ is not fully determin’d, but it will appear at least Three Hundred Years since, and worn as an Ornament for Women, as well as Men; for on a Monument in the Collegiate Church of _Warwick_, the Figure of _Margaret_, Wife to Sir _William Peito_ (said to be interr’d _Temp. Edw._ III.) hath a Collar of SS’_s_ drawn about, and set close to her Neck, which the Sculpture in _The Antiquities of_ Warwickshire, by mistake, represented like a Ruff. There was also a Collar of SS’_s_ about the Neck of Sir _Simon Burley_’s Statue in St. _Paul_’s _London_.

IN the ancient Creation of an Esquire in _England_, part of the Ceremony was the King’s putting about his Neck a Silver Collar of SS’_s_. And _Selden_, in his Titles of Honour contemns not the old Ballad, _The Tanner of_ Tamworth, to prove the Creation of Esquires in King _Edw._ IV’s Reign, by conferring such Collars on them. But that the Golden one was the undoubted Badge of a Knight, as may be instanc’d by many undeniable Examples, deduc’d from the Monuments of such Persons, _Temp. Hen._ VI. _Ed._ IV. _Hen._ VII. _Hen._ VIII. and since, and so legally appropriate thereto, that in the Act 24 _H._ VIII. made for Reformation of Apparel, there is a Proviso entred, That Knights, notwithstanding, might publickly wear a Gold Collar of SS’_s_, tho’ since it is grown obsolete and useless. _Favin_ tells us that our _Hen._ V. instituted an Order surnam’d Knights of the SS’_s_ on the Day of the Martyrs St. _Crispine_ and _Crispianus_; which tho’ he found nothing of it in our _English_ Historians, yet from the Chronicle of _Juvenal des Ursins_, where he treats of the Battle of _Agincourt_, he collected this following Relation.

“THE King of _England_ exhorted his Men, and commanded, That if any had trespass’d against another, they should be reconcil’d and confess’d to the Priests, otherwise no good Success wou’d accrew to them in their Attempts. He advis’d them to be civil in their March, and to do their Duty well, and agreed upon these Conditions, That those of their Company who were not of gentle Extraction he wou’d make so from the Fountain of Honour, and give them Warrants, that for the future they should enjoy the Privileges the Gentlemen of _England_ had; and to the End they might be distinguish’d from others, he granted them leave to wear a Collar powder’d with the Letter S.”

AMONG the Variety of Collars of SS’s now in vogue, there are these following: The Lord Mayor of _London_’s Collar is compos’d of Gold, having a Knot (like one of those that tye the Garters together in the great Collar of the Order) inserted between Two SS_s_, and they again situated between Two Roses, _viz._ a White Rose within a Red, and in the Middle before the Breast is a large Portcullis, whereat hangs a most rich Jewel sett with large Diamonds.

THE Collars of the Lords Chief Justices of both the Benches, and the chief Baron of the _Exchequer_, are (in Memory of the said St. _Simplicius_, a Senator, and consequently a Gownman) form’d of the Letter S, and a Knot alternately, having a Rose set in that part of it which falls out to be in the Middle of their Breasts, and another on their Backs; the Five Flowers of these Roses are constituted of Five large Pearls.

THOSE Collars, which appertain to the Kings and Heralds of Arms, as well as to Serjeants at Arms, having been bestow’d by former Kings, and renew’d to them by King _Charles_ II. to be worn upon Days of solemn Attendance, are compos’d of SS’s link’d together. In the Middle of the Breast is a Rose, at each of which hangs Three small Drops of Silver; but the SS’s in the Collars worn by the Kings of Arms are made somewhat larger than the other, and in that part lying on either Shoulder, is a Portcullis taken in between the SS’s, which are wanting in the rest.

THE general difference of the Collars appropriate to the before-named Degrees, is this; Knights have allow’d them Collars of Silver gilt, but Esquires only Silver; and therefore in the Creating of an Herald, in part of that Ceremony, he is made an Esquire, by putting on him a Collar of SS’s of Silver; and so is a Serjeant at Arms.

THE Kings of _England_ have sometimes been pictured with a Collar of SS’s about their Arms, in like manner as the Garter doth surround them, as appears from an Impression of King _Henry_ VIII’s Privy Signet; whereon his Royal Arms crown’d are encircled with a Collar of SS’s, to the lower End of which are affix’d Two Portcullisses.

§ 9. WE come now to the lesser _George_ of the Order; and we do not find that the Effigies of St. _George_ was at any time worn by the Sovereign or Knights-Companions, before the Breast or under the Arm, as now used till the 13th of _Henry_ VIII. But then that King decreed in a Chapter held at _Greenwich_, the Morrow after St. _George_’s Day, That every Knight should wear loosely before his Breast the Image of St. _George_ in a Gold Chain, or otherwise, in a Ribband, the same to be fasten’d within the ennobled Garter, for a manifest Distinction between the Knights-Companions, and others of the Nobility and Knights, who, according to the Mode of those Times, wore large Gold Chains, the ordinary Ensigns of Knighthood. And thus the wearing the Medal or Jewel, usually call’d the lesser _George_, to distinguish it from the other Work at the Collar of the Order, first receiv’d the Injunction, and hath since been frequently used.

THIS _George_ was, for the most part, pure Gold curiously wrought, but divers of them were exquisitely graved in Onyx’s and Agats, and with such a happy Collection of the Stones, that heightned and received their Beauty by the Skill of the Artificer, in contriving the Figures and History, the natural Tincture of the Stones have so fitted them with Colours for Flesh, Hair, and every thing else, even to Surprize and Admiration. In this Jewel is St. _George_ represented in a Riding Posture encountring the Dragon with his drawn Sword.