Part 16

THAT Mantle prepared for the Founder against the first Feast of this Order, appears to be fine Woollen Cloth, and it is not improbable this Material was chosen, rather than any other richer, to the Intent the Founder might give the Preference to our native Commodity, altho’ there’s permitted in the Statutes of Institution a permission for the Proxies of Foreign Princes to bring over with them Mantles of Silk and Velvet when they came to receive possession of their Principal Stalls, either because other Countries were better stored with such Commodities than our _English_ Cloth, or that it might be more agreeable to represent the State and Grandeur of Foreign Princes, as accounting Silk or Velvet the nobler Representation.

WHAT Duration the wearing Cloth had, is not directly set down, but the first time we discover their Mantles to be of Velvet, is about the beginning of the Reign of King _Hen._ VI. which Sort of Silk hath thence remained until this Day. About this Period, ’tis observed, that the Mantles of Foreign Princes were made here of Velvet, for so was that transmitted to the King of _Portugal_, elected _Anno_ 1346. Concerning the Mantles of the Knights-Companions, there is no doubt but they were of the same Materials with those made for the Sovereign, _viz._ at first of fine Woollen Cloth, and when the Sovereign exchanged it for Velvet, they followed his Example; but we cannot meet with equal Satisfaction in this Point, because the Knights-Companions provided this Robe at their own Expence; and their private Accounts herein passing thro’ so many Contingences, were of no great Durability. But their Surcoats were of the Sovereigns Donation, and consequently the Particulars of them remain on Record in the Rolls and Accounts of the great Wardrobe.

THE Colour of these Mantles is appointed by the Statutes to be Blue, and of this Colour was the Founders; by which, as by the Ground-work of the Royal Garter, it is not improbable he alluded to the Colour of the Field in the _French_ Arms, which a few Years before he began to Quarter with those of _England_. But the Colour of the Surcoat was changed every Year, as will appear by and by. Of the same Colour were the Velvet Mantles, made _temp. Hen._ VI. who tho’ he altered the Stuff, did not vary the Dye. It is apparent, that the blue Colour was retained to King _Edw._ IVth’s Reign, for when this Sovereign transmitted the Habit and Ensigns of the Order to _Julian de Medicis_, the Mantle was of blue Velvet.

BUT in King _Hen._ VIIIth’s Statutes there’s no mention at all of the Colour of this upper Robe, save only of the _Mantle_, which the Proxy of a Foreign Prince was enjoined to bring with him when he came to assume the Stall of his Principal; which, tho’ it does not come directly up to the Point, yet it is to be observed to be of blue Velvet. And it’s highly probable that the blue Colour remained still to be used; for within a few Months after the compiling the said Statutes, it’s plain, the Mantle sent to _James_ King of _Scotland_, was of blue Velvet, and in the ancient Form of Admonition and Signification appointed to be spoke at the Investiture of Foreign Princes, and then in Plea it is called _the Mantle of celestial Colour_. Likewise the Mantle sent to _Emanuel_ Duke of _Savoy_, 1 and 2 _Ph._ and _Mar._ was of the same Composure.

IN Queen _Elizabeth_’s Reign, upon what Ground History is silent, the Colour of Foreign Prince’s Mantles was changed from Blue to Purple, for of that Colour were the Mantles sent to the _French_ Kings, _Charles_ IX. _Anno._ 6 _Eliz._ and _Hen._ III. _Ann._ 27 _Eliz._ So also to the Emperor _Maximilian_ 9 _Elizabeth_, to _Fredrick_ II. King of _Denmark_, _An._ 24 _Eliz._ to _Joh. Casimire_ Count Palatine of the _Rhine_, _Anno_ 21 _Eliz._ to _Christiern_ IV. King of _Denmark_, _An. J. R._ IV. But that sent to _Frederick_ Duke of _Wirtemberg_ in the same Year, was a mix’d Colour of Purple and Violet.

THUS the Purple Colour came in Request, and continued till about the 12 of King _Charles_ I. when he determining to restore the Colour of the Mantle to the primitive Institution, gave Directions to Mr. _Peter Richaut_, Merchant, to provide himself with a Quantity of rich blue Velvets from _Genoa_; and upon their arrival into _England_, signify’d his Pleasure by Sir _Thomas Rowe_ the Chancellor, That all Knights-Companions should purchase as much of the said Velvet as would furnish them with new Robes against St. _George_’s-Day next ensuing; compliance to whose Will, all the Knights paid Obedience, at the Rate of Thirty seven Shillings a Yard, being the Price the Sovereign paid to Mr. _Richaut_ for the Velvet of his own Robes. And the first Essay of these Mantles was to honour the Installation of the Prince, afterwards King _Charles_ II.

AND because there were many Knights-elect to be installed after the Restoration, it was ordained at the Chapter held at _Whitehall_ the _14th_ of _Jan. Anno_ 12. _Car._ 2. (called to consider of the Preparations of the grand Feast then at hand), That Directions should be given to the Master of the Wardrobe to negotiate Abroad for excellent Velvets of Skie Colour, and Crimson, and other Materials agreeable for the Mantles and Surcoats, both of the old Knights-Companions, and those that were then to be installed; which was accordingly effected, and they were transmitted in time to accommodate them at the said Feast.

THO’ the just Number of Ells of Cloth for the Sovereigns Mantle at the first Institution are not set down, yet in the Total for his Mantle, Hood, and Surcoat, there was allowed ten Ells of long Cloth. The Mantle of King _Henry_ VI. took up one Piece, five Ells and three Quarters of blue Velvet; and those sent to _Frederick_ II. and _Christian_ IV. Kings of _Denmark_; and to the _French_ King, _Henry_ III. contained each twenty Yards of Velvet.

THIS we find to be the Allowance for Foreign Princes, and are the more full and extensive, by reason of their long Train, which being more scanty in the Mantles of Knights-Subjects, eighteen Yards was sufficient to make one of them. The full Length of King _Charles_ II. from the Collar behind to the end of the Train, was three Yards the Length of the foreside, one Yard and three Quarters from the Foot along the bottom to the fixing on of the Train, was two Yards, and from thence the Length or Compass of the Train, two Yards.

THE left Shoulder of each of these Mantles have from the Institution been adorned with a large fair Garter, containing this Motto, _Honi soit qui mal y pense_. These were distinguished from the lesser Garters, anciently embroider’d upon the Surcoats and Hoods of the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, by the Name of _Garters Gross_.

WITHIN this Garter was the Arms of St. _George_, _viz._ Argent a _Cross Gules_, and was heretofore wrought in Sattin, with Gold, Silver and Silk; but in descending Times greater Expence and Magnificence became the Practice of the Order, for it was embordered upon Velvet with Damask, Gold, and sundry Sorts of Purls, Plates, _Venice_ Twists and Silks, and the Letters of the Motto and Borders of the Garter composed of fair Oriental Pearl. The Garter fix’d upon the Mantle of King _Charles_ II. was encircled with large Oriental Pearl, so were the Letters of the Motto and the Cross within the Garter, the Diameter of which was seven Inches, but the Depth from the upper Part to the end of the Pendant, ten Inches.

_Temp. Hen._ VI. it seems to have been the Mode to embellish the Mantle with three or four Velts drawn down the sides, and round the bottom, as it appears by the Monument of _John Talbot_ Earl of _Shrewsbury_ in the South-wall of the Chancel of _Whitechurch in Com. Salop_.

ABOUT that Time the Lining of this Robe was white Damask, and afterwards white Sattin; but of later Date it was lined with white Taffaty, which continues yet in vogue.

FOR exemplary Ornament, the Mantle had fixed to its Collar a pair of long Strings, anciently woven of blue Silk only (called _Cordons_, Robe-strings or Laces); but of later Days, twisted round and made of _Venice_ Gold and Silk of the Colour of the Robe, at each end of which hung a great Knob or Button, wrought over and raised with a rich Caul of Gold, and Tassels thereunto of like Silk and Gold.

AND at the Collar was usually fixed an Hook and Eye of Gold for its firmer affixing of it to the Shoulders.

§. 3. THE Third Ensign of the Order is the _Surcoat_ or _Kirtle_, which altho’ we find no Place for it in the Founder’s Statutes, is nevertheless as ancient as the Mantle or upper Robe, that is only taken Notice of there, for such a Vesture King _Edward_ III. then made, together with his Mantle and a Hood to celebrate the first Feast of the Order in.

ITS Original it owes to the _Greeks_ and _Romans_; amongst whom this Garment had its determinated _Tunica_, and was worn next under the _Toga_, but amongst them was both narrower and shorter; it was girt close to the Body with a Girdle, and so fitted, that the Hem of it reached a little below the Knee, or to the middle of the Ham. It was the proper Mode of the _Roman_ Citizens, and by its trimming were the three Degrees among them known; for the Senators Tunicks were embroidered or purfled over with broad purple Studs, the Knights with narrow ones, and the Plebeians plain.

IN setting forth the Surcoat, which was heretofore annually bestowed by the Sovereign or the Knights-Companions, and therefore called his _Livery_, we shall, as in the Description of the Mantle, treat somewhat of the Name, Materials, Colour, Quantity and Garnishing of it.

AS to the Name in the old Rolls of the great Wardrobe, it is stiled _Roba_, but more properly as the Founder’s first Surcoat is called _Tunica_, which Name it bears in the red Book of the Order. In _English_ it is rendred _Gown_, _Kirtle_, _Surcoat_, _Undercoat_ and _Robe_. The Appellation of _Gown_ is attributed to _Surcoats_ of the Sovereigns and Foreign Princes, _Temp. Hen._ VI. _Edw._ IV. and _Hen._ VII. But since, and very lately, it hath been bestowed also on the Surcoats of Knights-Companions; and that of _Kirtle_ sometimes given to those sent to Foreign Princes, as appears by the Books of Warrants in the great Wardrobe, but the rest are Terms of a later Date: As the first Mantles, so the first Surcoats were composed of Woollen Cloth, and tho’ the Cloth of the Mantles was in some space after changed for Velvet, yet the Surcoats continued afterwards to be of Cloth, at least till after the Office of Chancellor of the Garter was erected by King _Edward_ IV. as is manifest by the Precedent of this Livery in the Sovereigns great Wardrobe; but in process of Time they became Velvet, which sort of Silk is yet retained.

THE Colour of this Vesture was anciently changed every Year, commonly into Blue, Scarlet, Sanguine in Grain, or White. But the Colour of the Mantles remained the same as at the Institution, until Queen _Elizabeth_’s Reign, and then it commenced Blue: And ’tis remarkable, that the Surcoats of the Knights-Companions, were always of the same Colour with the Sovereigns.

THE Founder’s first Surcoat was of the same Cloth and Colour with the Mantle, _viz._ Blue, but in the 34th Year of his Reign he altered it to Black, and of the same Colour were those he conferred that Year upon these following Knights-Companions, _viz._ the Black Prince, the Earls of _Ulster_, _Richmond_ and _Salisbury_, _Edmund_ of _Langly_, Sir _Richard la Vach_, Sir _Hugh Wrotesly_, Sir _Reginald Cobham_, Sir _Bartholomew Burghest_, the Lord _Mohun_, Sir _Walter Manney_, Sir _Nele Loring_, Sir _Walter Paveley_, Sir _William Fitz Warin_, Sir _Miles Stapleton_, the Earls of _Stafford_, _Warwick_ and _Suffolk_, and Sir _Thomas Ughtred_: The Motive that induced him to pitch upon this sable Colour, was conceived to be a kind of Humiliation, because the Pestilence began again to spread its Malevolence, which had furiously raged Eleven Years before. The Surcoats which the Sovereign gave the Dukes of _Lancaster_ and _Clarence_, and Fourteen other Knights, _Anno_ 37. _Edward_ III. were of Cloth, Sanguine in Grain. Those Twenty four provided for the Feast of St. _George_, _Anno_ 7 _Richard_ II. were Violet in Grain, whereof one was for the Sovereign, the other Twenty three for the Knights-Companions, following _John_ King of _Castile_, and _Leonard_ Duke of _Lancaster_, the Earls of _Cambridge_, _Buckingham_, _Derby_, _Kent_, _Warwick_, _Stafford_, _Salisbury_, _Northumberland_ and _Nottingham_, the Lords _Nevil_, _Basset_, and _John Holland_, Sir _Guy Bryan_, Sir _William Beauchamp_, Sir _Thomas Percy_, Sir _Nele Loring_, Sir _John Sulby_, Sir _Lodowick Clifford_, Sir _Simon Burley_, Sir _Richard Burley_, Sir _Bryan Stapleton_ and Sir _Soldan de la Trane_.

_Anno_ 11 _Richard_ II. there were ordered against St. _George_’s Feast Twenty three Surcoats of white Cloth for the Sovereign, and Twenty two Knights-Companions; and the 12 and 19 Year of the same King, the Sovereign bestowed on the same Persons Surcoats of long blue Cloth, after the Original Model. The Twenty two Surcoats made up for the Feast of St. _George_, _Anno_ 1 _Henry_ V. were of white Cloth; _Anno_ —— _Henry_ VI. the Sovereigns Gown or Surcoat was of Scarlet, as was that sent to the King of _Portugal_ in the 13th Year of the same King. _Anno_ —— _Henry_ VI. the Sovereign had white Cloth; and so were the Surcoats given to Twenty Knights-Companions more in the —— Year of his Reign. Afterwards the beforementioned Four Colours began to be disused, for the Surcoat presented to _Julian de Medicis_, _temp. Edward_ IV. was purple Velvet, and towards the latter end of the Reign of King _Henry_ VIII. and since, it is upon Record, the Surcoats of the Sovereign and all the Knights-Companions were Crimson Velvet, nor did the Colour suffer a Mutation in the Surcoat, tho’ King _Charles_ I. restored the Mantle to its first primitive Colour, _Anno_ 12 _Regni sui_.

THERE has been some disproportion in the Quantity of the Cloth allowed in the Provision against one and the same Feast, for _Anno_ 34 _Edward_ III. the Earls of _Stafford_, _Warwick_, and _Suffolk_, as also Sir _Thomas Ughtred_ had then for each of their Surcoats six Ells of Cloth (perhaps the tallness of their Stature required it) when the other Fifteen Knights were allowed but five Ells, being the same Quantity the Sovereign’s Surcoat had contained in it at the same time.

THE Dukes of _Holland_ and _Clarence_, _Anno_ 1 _Henry_ V. with the Earls of _Arundel_, were allowed Eight Ells a-piece, the Dukes of _Bedford_, _Gloucester_ and _York_, the Earls of _Westmorland_ and _Warwick_, the Lords _Grey_, _Fitz Hugh_ and _Roos_, six Ells apiece; the Earls of _Dorset_, with six Barons and five Knights Batchelors, but five Ells apiece. Afterwards, when the Number of Ells of Cloth, Garters and Furrs came to be ascertained for each Degree, all the Knights-Companions (even the Prince of _Wales_) were not to exceed five Ells: But since Velvet came in Plea, the Allowance for Surcoat and Hood hath been eighteen Yards, when the Surcoat reached down to the Feet; but now it being the Fashion to wear it shorter, the Allowance is stinted to Ten. The Length of King _Charles_ II’s Surcoat was one Yard and an half, and of the Sleeve one Yard wanting a Nail.

THE Ornamental Trimmings of these Garments are next worthy of Note, especially at the Time of Instituting this Order, for they were then, and a long time after, powdered all over with little Garters, embroidered with Silk and Gold-Plate, in each of which was neatly wrought the Motto, _Honi soit, &c._ Besides, the Buckles and Pendants to those small Garters, were Silver gilt; of these Garters there were no less than 160 upon the first Surcoat and Hood made for the Founder.

IN King _Richard_ II’s Reign, the little Garters that adorned the Surcoats of the Sovereign, and the other Knights were wrought in Embroidery upon blue Taffaty with Cyprus, and Soldat Gold and Silk of divers Colours, and the Letters Gold. And as the Sovereign was not limited in the Proportion of Cloth or Velvet for his Surcoat, no more was he confined to the Number of Garters, wherewith to adorn it; nor do I find that any of the Knights-Companions were, until the Precedent of the Livery of the Garter was settled, for _Anno_ 1 _Henry_ V. the Dukes of _Holland_ and _Clarence_, the Earl of _Arundel_, the Dukes of _Bedford_ and _Gloucester_ had each of their Surcoats adorned with 120 Garters, but the Duke of _York_, and the rest wore but 100. The Settlement in the Precedent of the Livery was, in relation to Degrees of Honour, a greater or less Number of Garters: Thus,

A Duke 120 } A Marquis 110 } An Earl 100 } A Viscount 90 } Garters. A Baron 80 } A Baronet 70 } A Knight-Batchelor 60 }

ABOUT the Reign of King _Henry_ VI. the Sovereigns Number of Garters did not much exceed those which the Founder allow’d to himself at the Institution; for the Surcoat and Hood of the said King consisted of 173; and the King of _Portugal_, _Anno_ 13 _Henry_ VI. 120 Garters. But this Drapery of their Robes became at length quite obsolete, perhaps when Cloth was altered to Velvet, and the plain Surcoat hath to this Day continued in Use.

WHILE these Surcoats remained of Cloth, they were lined with Bellies of pure Minever Fur, only the Sovereigns was purfled with Ermin; and of these, it seems, a like Proportion was at first stated to all the Knights-Companions, _viz._ 200 Bellies. Yet in the Reign of King _Richard_ II. some Difference began in the Allowance to the Knights-Companions, for a Baron, and all Degrees upward had 200 Bellies; but under a Baron 120 only. However, _Anno_ 1. _Henry_ V. the Barons were tantamount to the Knights-Batchelors, for all Degrees above a Baron were allow’d, a Fur of 200 Bellies. But the Barons and Knights-Batchelors Furs were only 120 Bellies.

AFTERWARDS, by the Precedent of the Garter, there was another Proportion limited, the Prince, a Duke, a Marquis, an Earl, had each of them Five Timber of pure Minever allowed to a Surcoat; but the Viscount, Baron, Baronet and Batchelor-Knights but Three Timber apiece. In time these Furs were disused, and the Surcoats came to be lined with white Sarcenet, to which, _temp. Eliz._ white Taffaty succeeded, and that still continues.

WHAT became of the old Surcoats, since the Knights-Companions had new ones every Year, the Black Book of the Order informs us, That on the Eve of the Feast of St. _George_, the Knights wore to Vespers, the Sovereigns Livery or Surcoats, used by them the preceding Year, which after that Night they threw off, (for the new Surcoats were worn on the Feast-Day); but the Ensigns and Ornaments of this Kind were disposed of to the Use of the Colledge.

THE Hood and Cap comes in the next Place to be spoken of, which Hood in King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes, and the Black Book of the Order is called _Humerale_; but in the Rolls of the Great Wardrobe, _Capucium_. In the _French_ it is _Chaperon_, a Word used in the Statute, _Anno_ 1. _Richard_ II. _C._ 7. and also retained in the Old _English_ Copy of _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes made of his Reign, and annexed to this Treatise. They were anciently wore for Defence of the Head against the Inclemencies of Weather, but of later Times Caps and Hats have supplied their place. How they sat upon the Head, may be observed in the Portraitures of the first Founders; as also with some Variety of Fashion in succeeding Ages: Yet is not the Hood quite thrown by, since ’tis still kept reclining upon the Back, almost like a Pilgrim’s Hat.

THIS Hood was ordained, and is yet retained as part of the Habit of this most Noble Order. And tho’ neither it nor the Surcoat is mentioned in the Statutes of Institution, or in either its Exemplars, nor doth King _Henry_ V. lay any Stress upon it, yet it is of equal Antiquity with the rest, as appears from the Rolls of the great Wardrobe, and _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes have made remarkable Observation of it, for the Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, and Collar are called the Habit of the Order: And in the Black Book, _Anno_ 22. _Henry_ VII. at the Investiture of _Philip_ King of _Castile_, the Mantle, Kirtle, Hood and Collar are expresly called _Whole Habit_.

IT was heretofore, and now is generally made of the same Materials as the Surcoat, and was anciently trimmed and set off with a small Proportion of Garters lined with Cloth of a different Colour, and such as would best strike the Sight; but now with Taffaty, as is the Lining of the Surcoat.

AS to the Cap, which was instituted to succeed the Hood; it hath been, and yet is, fashioned of black Velvet lin’d with Taffaty; but the Figure hath several Times varied; for _Temp. Henry_ VIII. it was flat, in Queen _Elizabeth_’s Reign it was a little raised in the Head; but in King _James_’s Time they were much more high-crown’d. This Cap hath been usually adorn’d with Plumes of White Feathers, and Spriggs, and bound about with a Band set thick with Diamonds; so was the Cap for the Installation of King _Charles_ II. and sometimes the Brims have been tack’d up with a large and costly Jewel.

THIS Custom of wearing Caps and Feathers at the Grand Solemnities of the Order, had, for some Time, about the Beginning of King _James_ I. Reign, been omitted, and thereupon, in a Chapter held the 13th of _April_, _Anno_ 10. _Jac._ I. this commendable Custom was re-establish’d.

TO these may be added the Cross of the Order encompass’d with a Garter, which by the Sovereign was ordain’d the 27th of _April_, 2 _Car._ I. to be worn upon the Left Side of the Cloaks, Coats, and riding Cassocks of the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, of the Prelate and Chancellor at all Times, when they were not adorn’d with their Robes, and in all Places and Assemblies (but not embellish’d with Pearls and Stones) that the wearing thereof might be a sufficient Indication to the World, of that Height of Honour they arriv’d to from the said most Noble Order, instituted for Persons of the greatest Merit and Worth.

AND it was not long after e’er the Glory or Star, as it was usually call’d, having certain Beams of Silver, that shot out in Form of a Cross, was introduc’d and annex’d to it, in Imitation (as thought) of the _French_, who after the same manner wore the chief Ensign of the Order of the _Holy Ghost_, being the Representation of a Dove irradiated with such like Beams.

AND whereas some Painters affirm the Symbol of the Holy Ghost to be thus adorn’d congruous enough, yet censure it improper for a Garter, let them consider that King _Edw._ IV. erected his White Rose with the like Glory, whereof both the Stone Work and Wood Work of St. _George_’s Chapel in _Windsor_, manifestly illustrate, whose Antiquity makes a Precedent for it long before the Institution of the Order of the _Holy Ghost_; but this King assum’d this Device upon appearance of three Suns, which suddenly united together into one immediately, before his successful Victory at _Mortimer_’s-_Cross_, a happy _Æra_ he thought himself oblig’d to perpetuate. And they mistake who suppose it to be the Garter that is thus irradiated, whereas it is something else more worthy of the Glory, for from it, not the Garter, do the Rays diffuse, _viz._ the inclos’d Cross of the Order, celebrated as glorious, since it darted its bright Beams from Heaven, when it appear’d to _Constantine the Great_; as the same is represented on a Silver Medal: On the one Side whereof was a _Bust in profile_, or side Face of King _Charles_ I. and on the Reverse, this Badge of the Order, within a Garter, inscrib’d, _Honi_, &c. a Cross irradiated, dispersing its Beams in a Rhombular Form of Eight Angles, beyond the Orbit or bounding Lines of the said Garter, having for Circumscription, _Prisci decus Ordinis Auctum_, 1629.