Part 15

BESIDES this there is another Book that goes by the Name of the _Black Book_, wherein the Annals of the Order are transcribed in _Latin_, concerning which there pass’d a Decree, _Anno_ 3 _Hen._ VII. that it should be fairly copy’d out, and afterwards that the Sovereign should be put in Remembrance of it; but neither of these Decrees was put in execution, nor was this confirm’d till towards the End of the Reign of King _Henry_ VIII. This Book differs very little from the _Registrum Chartaceum_, for therein is nothing enrolled relating to the Order (except one of the Exemplars of the Founders Statutes, and a Catalogue of the first Twenty-five Knights-Companions) before the 4th Year of King _Henry_ V. the Annals of the Order, until that time, being entirely lost. It hath the same Hiatus or Intervals from 16 to 23 _Hen._ VI. from 7 to 10 of _Edw._ 4. from 4 to 7 _Hen._ VII. and from 10 to 14 _Hen._ 7. It also runs parallel therewith for the most part, and that it was compil’d by Dr. _Aldrydge_, whilst he continu’d Register, is collected from some Passages in the Preface of all the Sovereigns, ending with King _Henry_ VIII. The Transcription of this Book was finish’d _Anno_ 13 _Hen._ VIII. for so far is written, as also the Appendix, with one and the same Hand; (in a middle-siz’d Text) but _Anno_ 32 _Hen._ VIII. another Hand appears, which, with some Variation, is continu’d to the End of 5 _Edw._ VI. where this Book breaks off.

THE Register of the Order was oblig’d to provide Two Books, and therein to enter the Ordinances, Statutes, and Acts of this Noble Corporation, one to be lodg’d at the Chapter House at _Windsor_, and call’d, _Index Windesoriensis_, and the other being a Duplicate of the former, to remain in his own Custody, ready to expose to the View of the Sovereign, whensoever he should demand it; this latter was called _Aulæ Registrum_.

AS to the general Directions for Compiling these Books, and the Particulars they are to consist of, we are inform’d from the said Statutes and Constitutions; for besides the Entry of all the Scrutinies taken in Chapter and Elections made thereupon, it is his Office to record the Penalties inflicted on Knights-Companions, and the Reconciliation of all Delinquents with other Acts, and their Causes appertaining to the Order, all which are decreed to be recited before the Sovereign and Knights-Companions at the Beginning of the Chapter yearly, if Occasion be, to correct and reduce into Method. Moreover he is to record all the Policies in War, Exploits, Transactions, and memorable Atchievements, both of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions, according as he can best attain the Knowledge of them, by his own diligent Search, or the Assistance of Mr. Garter, which having consign’d to Writing from Year to Year, is to be perused at the next Chapter by the Knights-Companions, for their Approbation and Correction; and being reiterated the second time in the Chapter, he is to see that they be fairly engrossed in the said Book, for a perpetual Remembrance.

AND because the time perfix’d for Rehearsal of these Particulars in Chapter, had in succeeding Years been imploy’d in other Affairs. In one of those Articles which the Knights-Companions exhibited to King _Jac._ I. the 19th of _May, Anno Jac._ R. 20. and ratified the 22d of _May_ following, it was decreed that nothing of this Nature, or any other Act in Chapter, should be registred before it had been perus’d and pass’d the Consideration of the then Knights-Companions, or at least Four of them, who when they should set Times apart to consult of the Affairs of this Order (for which they were chiefly commission’d) might then also make Use of such Opportunities as should give this Business Dispatch with more Conveniency. Upon mature Consideration had of those Injunctions, the then Register at a Chapter held 19 _Nov._ 22 _Car._ II. presented the Continuation of the Annals of this Order, which he had ranged in order to register in the _Liber Carolinus_, and submitted them to the Approbation of the Knights-Companions, whom the Sovereign had commission’d to inspect the Affairs of the Order; which Tender, when they declin’d, he propos’d that it might pass the Examination of the Prelate; but they not giving their Assent to it, in regard the Register himself was under the Obligation of an Oath, to deal with the utmost Fidelity in his Reports, it was decreed, That the said Annals should be fairly recorded in the Book, without any further Inspection.

BESIDES the abovemention’d Particulars, there were Materials of another Nature, decreed to be collected by the Chancellor of the Order and Garter King of Arms, to be digested first, and after entred by the Register; for whereas one part of the Chancellor’s Duty was to make a Narration every Year in Chapter, at the Feast of St. _George_, of the illustrious Exploits of the Knights-Companions, as well as the Actions that tend to eclipse their Glory; so the Register was to note these, and record them from a perpetual Æra or Memorial of their Honour or Disgrace.

AND it is part of Garter’s Duty diligently to enquire after the Valiant, Fortunate, and Renown’d Acts, both of the Sovereign and the rest of the Knights-Companions, and relate them with all Exactness to the Register, for his Engrossing: But how sparingly these are put in execution, the Annals themselves bear witness. However, Sir _Edward Walker_ Garter-King has drawn up an Account of the shining Actions and Characters of the Knights-Companions, beginning with _Thomas_ Earl of _Strafford_, and continuing it down to his Son, which he deliver’d Dr. _Ryves_ the Register, for the Use afore-directed.

AMONG the Articles establish’d at the Feast of St. _George_, 21 _Jac._ I. the last is, That the then Register should compose a Book, wherein should be orderly transcribed the Form and Manner of all the Solemnities, Ceremonies, and Processions, at the Celebration of the Order; as also of taking down and offering the defunct Knight’s Atchievements, that the Knights-Companions might have free Recourse to it; but such Book never was extant.

For the Safety and Preservation of the _Annals_, the Knights-Commissioners determined the 22nd of _May, An. Jac._ I. 20. That a secure and convenient Place within the Castle of _Windsor_ should be appointed, in which all Acts concerning the Order should be reposed, and to which every Knight-Companion at all times might have access. And upon the Remove or Decease of the Register of the Order, the Book, containing the Account of all such Transactions, should be committed to one of the Knights of the Order.

The second of these Books is called the _Blue Book_, so call’d, being bound in Blue Velvet; it begins with the first Year of Queen _Mary_, and ends at the 18th of King _Jac._ I.

The third being bound in Red Velvet, is denominated the _Red Book_; it commences where the _Blue Book_ leaves off, and treats of the like Acts and Entries, and is carry’d down to 14 _Car._ I: having first given a full Account of the Installation of the Prince, afterwards King _Charles_ II. And as to great part of this Work, it was perform’d by the elegant and judicious Dr. _Matthew Wren_, Bishop of _Ely_, and Register of the Order, whose excellent Pattern his Brother and Successor Dr. _Christopher Wren_ hath copy’d in its following Tract. This Bishop compiled a MS. _A. D._ 1631. wherein, by way of Comment upon King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes, he hath compendiously shewn what Alteration there hath passed in the Law of the Garter, a Work performed with great Judgment, and exceedingly useful to the Curious.

The fourth and last Book is, _Liber Carolinus_, and commences 1640. wherein the _Annals_ are brought down to the beginning of 1670. by _Ryves_, then Register. And in a Chapter conven’d at _Windsor_ the 16th of _April, Anno_ 13 _Car._ II. it was decreed, That there should be Two of these Books compiled, the one printed in _Latin_, in the Custos of the Register at _Windsor_; and the other in _English_, to be reserv’d at _Whitehall_, and call’d, _Registrum Aulicum_.

CAP. VII.

_The_ Habit _and_ Ensigns _of the Order_.

THE Habit and Ensigns of this most Noble Order are most eminently distinguishable and magnificent, and consist of these Particulars, _viz._ Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, George, and Collar; for as the _Romans_ were very exact and particular in assigning each Degree a peculiar Habit and Vesture, by which the Quality and Rank of their Citizens might be discernable, the Distinction of Apparel was afterwards taken up by divers other Nations, whence every Military, as well as Ecclesiastick Order of Knighthood, did appropriate to it self a peculiar Dress, Ensign, or Badge, as a Mark of Distinction one from another, to set off the Lustre and Honour of their several Societies.

The four first, _viz._ the Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, and Hood, were assigned the Knights Companions, by the Founder, and the George and Collar by King _Henry_ VIII. and all these together are called the whole Habit or Ensigns of the Order, which we shall treat of succinctly, beginning with the Garter.

The Royal Garter challengeth the Preheminence, for from it this famous Order receiv’d its Denomination: It is the first part of the Habit presented to Foreign Princes and Absent Knights, and that wherewith they, and all other elect Knights, are first adorn’d; and of so great Honour and Grandeur, that by the bare Investiture with this Noble Ensign, the Knights are esteem’d Companions of the greatest Military Order in the World.

The Materials whereof it was compos’d at first, is an _Arcanum_; nor is it described by any before _Polydore Virgil_, and he but in general: As to the ornamental Part of it, it was adorn’d with Gold and precious Stones, and had a Buckle of Gold at the End, to fasten it about the Leg; but there’s no doubt but it was wrought with rich Embroidery, and the Motto rais’d with Gold, Pearl, and sundry Sorts of Silk, as may be guess’d from the Garters anciently plac’d on the left side of the Knights-Companions Mantles, and those other little embroider’d Garters, wherewith their Surcoats and Hoods were heretofore embellish’d.

BUT of those wrought in the last Age, we have more particular Satisfaction; for we find the Garter sent to _Emanuel_ Duke of _Savoy_, _Anno_ 1 and 2 _Philip_ and _Mary_, was set with Letters of Goldsmith’s Work, the Buckle and Pendant of the same, and on the Pendant a Ruby, and a Pearl hanging at the End. The Garter made for _Francis_ II. _Anno_ 6 _Elizabeth_, was richly wrought with Letters of Gold, set off and garnish’d with Stones, the Buckle and Pendant weighing Three Ounces and an half-quarter, was richly set with Rubies and Diamonds. The _French_ King _Henry_ IV. had a Garter of Purple Velvet embroider’d with Letters of Gold, and deck’d out with Diamonds and Rubies. And the Garter of _Christian_ IV. King of _Denmark_, was embroider’d with Gold and Pearls: But that Garter sent to _Gustavus Adolphus_ King of _Sweden_, outvied all others conferr’d by former Sovereigns, each Letter of the Motto being compos’d of small Diamonds; and for every Stop, a Diamond within a Range of Diamonds, above and below, on the sides of the Garter, and besides other Diamonds on the Buckle, and about the same, to the Number in all of 411.

THE Garter which King _Charles_ I. wore upon his Leg at the Time of his Martyrdom, had the Letters of the Motto compos’d likewise of Diamonds, which amounted to the Number of 412. It came to the Hands of Captain _Preston_ (one of the Usurper’s Captains) from whom the Trustees, for Sale of the King’s Goods, receiv’d it, and sold it to _Ireton_, sometimes Lord Mayor of _London_, for 205 _l._ But after the Restoration, the King’s Attorney-General proceeding upon an Action of _Trover_ and _Conversion_, Verdict was given for the King against him for 205 _l._ and 10 _l._ costs of Suits, in _Trinity_ Term, 16 _Car._ II.

THE Motto of King _Charles_ II. was set with Diamonds upon Blue Velvet, and the Borders wrought with fine Gold Wire; the Diamonds which framed the Letters of the Motto, were Rose Diamonds, much of a Size or Proportion; but those which framed the Stops, Table-Diamonds; the Total which set each Letter, compos’d the Stops, Ilot Holes, and adorn’d the Buckle; the Table was Two Hundred and Fifty; the Hinge of the Buckle was pure Gold, and on it the Sovereign’s Picture to the Breast, curiously cut in Flat-stitch, crown’d with a Laurel and the military Garb of the first _Roman_ Emperors; the Table or Pendant was Gold, and on the back-side thereof engrav’d St. _George_ on Horse-back encountring the Dragon.

THIS noble Ensign, the Garter, was at the Erection of the Order appointed to be wore on the left Leg, a little beneath the Knee, which Usage still presides: And the placing it thus, on the Sepulchral Portraictures of Knights-Companions, was an early Custom; for on the Alabaster Monument of Sir _William Fitz-warin_, who was interr’d in the North-side of the Chancel at _Wantage_ in _Com. Berks_, 35 _Edw._ III. he lies there with his Surcoat of Arms upon his Breast, and the Representation of a Garter (but without Motto) carv’d upon his left Leg. In the same Posture lies Sir _Richard Pembridge_, elected a Knight-Companion, _temp. Edw._ III. and is portraicted on his Monument in the South-side of the Cathedral of _Hereford_, below the Pulpit, and encompass’d with a Rail of Iron-Spikes.

THE next Monument whereon the Garter was depicted, was that erected for Sir _Simon Burley_, (beheaded _A. D._ 1388.) and rear’d in the North-Wall near the Choir of St. _Paul_’s, _London_. Thence-forward the Practice became more frequent, and then the Motto began to be cut thereon; insomuch that it is now the constant and just Practice to do it, whensoever the Knights-Companions are exhibited in Effigies.

AND altho’ this Ensign was first design’d in Ornament to the left Leg, yet it was not confin’d so solely thereto, but was anciently us’d to incircle the Escutcheon of St. _George_’s Arms, worn by the Sovereign and Knights-Companions on their Mantles, who within a small space after us’d it to surround their own proper Coat of Arms, which their Successors have retain’d as their peculiar Privilege, permitting it to none but to their principal Officer, the Prelate of the Order.

THE first Example that occurs, is the before-mention’d of Sir _Francis Burley_, where, on the Front, towards the Head, is his own Arms empaling his first Wife’s, set within a Garter, (wanting the Impress;) but another having the same Empalement, (plac’d below the Feet) is surrounded with a Collar of SS. of the same Form with that about his Neck.

THE Monument also of _Joan_, Wife of _Ralph Nevil_, Earl of _Westmoreland_, on the South-side of the Choir, in the Cathedral of _Lincoln_, bears the Arms of _Nevil_, empaling those of _Joan_, his Wife, (who dy’d _A. D._ 1410.) Incircled within a Garter, and fix’d on this Lady’s Monument, Daughter to _John_ of _Gaunt_, Duke of _Lancaster_, is there such a Collar of SS. placed about a Square; but the Paint being faded, was render’d unintelligible.

ANOTHER antique Instance is that Escutcheon, _Sable, Three Ostrich Feathers Argent_, surrounded with the Garter, affix’d in the Glass-Windows of _Greenwich_-Church in _Kent_, by _Humfrey_, Duke of _Glocester_, and Supported with a Greyhound and an Antelope. It is reported, these Three Feathers were the Ensign of King _Henry_ IV. which were conferr’d by _John_ of _Gaunt_, his Father, who bore them for his Device, and placed in a _Field Sable_, as here, but the Pens were powder’d with _Ermin_, for a difference from the Black Prince’s Feather, which were _Argent_, as the King’s Pen was _Or_, and the Duke of _Somerset_’s Compony _Argent_ and _Azure_.

THE Arms of Sir _Lewis Robessart_, Lord _Bourchier_, Knight-Companion, _temp. Hen._ V. we find encompass’d with a Garter on each side his Monument, in _Westminster-Abbey_.

AT the Interment of _Richard_ Duke of _York_, Father to King _Edw._ IV. at every Corner of the Majesty-Escutcheon (set over the Image of the Defunct) was an Escutcheon of the Arms of _France_ and _England quarterly_, and _Four Angels Gold_, holding the same within a Garter. And so some of the Funeral Escutcheons of _John_ Viscount _Wells_, (who dy’d 14 _Hen._ VII.) were surrounded with the Garter, as others bearing his Lady’s Arms.

AT the Interment of _Thomas_ Duke of _Norfolk_, in _Thetford-Abbey_, (who dy’d 16 _Hen._ VIII.) there was provided a Shield of his Arms within a Garter, and a Coronet affix’d over it; a Target also of the Arms of _George_, Earl of _Shrewsbury_, within a Garter, was born at his Funural, _Anno_ 33 _Hen._ VIII.

IT was the Custom, (begun about the Reign of _Hen._ VII.) when the Obsequies of any Foreign Prince were celebrated in _England_, to paint an Escutcheon of such Prince’s Arms within the Collar of the Order, whereof he was Sovereign or a Fellow-Companion; as those of the _French_ King, _Charles_ VIII. celebrated at St. _Paul_’s, _London_, had Escutcheons of the Arms of _France_, within the Collar of the Order of St. _Michael_, at each End of the Hearse; and when the Obsequies of _John_ King of _Portugal_ were solemniz’d at St. _Paul_’s, there was, among others, one large Escutcheon of his Arms within the Collar of the _Golden Fleece_. The Funeral Rites of the Emperor _Charles_ V. being perform’d in _Westminster-Abbey_, 22 and 23 _Dec._ 1558. there were Ten great Escutcheons compass’d with Garters, to shew he was a Fellow of this Order: And upon the same Account, where Princes were Sovereigns of one, and Companions of another Order, their Hearses were hung with Escutcheons of their Arms, surrounded with the Collars or principal Badges of both those Orders; as at the Interment of _Francis_ I. the _French_ King, celebrated at St. _Paul_’s, _London_, 1 _Edw._ VI. the Escutcheons were the Arms of _France_, encompass’d within the Garter of St. _George_, and Collar of St. _Michael_. At the Obsequies of _Hen._ II. of _France_, _Anno_ 1 _Eliz._ at St. _Paul_’s also, there were some Escutcheons of his Arms, incircled both with the Garter and Collar of the _Golden Fleece_, having been a Knight-Companion of both these Orders: Under the Joysts was a Majesty Escutcheon of Black Taffaty of this King’s Arms, within a Garter crown’d with an Imperial Crown, and in several Places of the Hearse were fasten’d other Escutcheons of his Arms within this principal Ensign of the Garter.

KING _Hen._ VIII. was the first that introduc’d into his Great Seal the Eschutcheon of his Arms incircled within a Garter, as may be seen placed on either side his Portraiture sitting on his Royal Throne; since him, all succeeding Sovereigns have born their Arms after that Manner, not only in their great and Privy-Seals, but in those other appertaining to their Courts of Justice, and generally in all Matters where their Arms were visible (except Coins); in Imitation of whom, the Knight-Companions have done the like.

BUT there were _An._ 21 _Car._ 1. certain Half Crowns stamp’d in the West of _England_, containing the Sovereigns Arms, so encompassed, regally crowned and supported; and this was the first Money whereon the Royal Garter appeared. After him King _Charles_ II. having an Eye to the Advancement of the Honour of this Order, caused the irradicated Cross of St. _George_ encompass’d about with the Royal Garter to be publickly stamp’d in the Center of his Silver Coin, struck upon the Recoinage of it, _Anno_ 14. _Car._ 2.

THERE were other Medals heretofore stamp’d upon several Occasions, wherein the Garter was designedly express’d, and enclosing Shields of their Arms; as that in the Year 1619. _Frederick_ Prince _Palatine_ of the _Rhine_, was crowned King of _Bohemia_, and _Robert Cecil_ Earl of _Salisbury_ created Lord Treasurer, both Knights Companions of this Noble Order: Moreover, Gold Rings have been cast into the Figures of Garters; the Ground on the outside enamell’d with a deep Blue, through which the golden Letters of the Motto appearing, set them off with an admirable Beauty. And it seems such Rings were in vogue since the Preface to the black Book of the Order makes mention of wearing the Garter on the Leg and Shoulder, and sometimes likewise subjoins the Thumb, _interdum Pollice gestare_; by which we may naturally conjecture, that Gold Rings were formed into the Fashion of Garters, and bestowed by some new installed Knights upon their Relations and Friends to wear in Memorial of so great an Honour conferred upon them.

AMONG the Officers belonging to the Order the Prelate is permitted to bear his proper Arms (impaled with those of his See) within the Garter, and the rest only to wear the Badges of their Offices, surrounded with the same to express their peculiar Relation.

BESIDES the Manner of bearing Arms, within the Garter of this Order, the Garter either in whole or part, hath been by Way of Armory, but without the Motto; as in the Seal belonging to the Office of Garter King of Arms, where the Garter (enclosing a Crown) is placed on a Chief, between a _Lyon_ of _England_ and a _Flower de Lys_ of _France_. And to instance in Family, we find Argent Three _Demy-Garters Azure_, buckled and garnished, _Or_, granted by King _Hen._ VII. to his Servant _Peter Nerborne_, and sable a Garter, _Or_, between Three Buckles of the Second, to be born by _Buckland_ or _Bowland in Com. Northampton_.

§. 2. THE second Ensign of the Order is the _Mantle_, which is the Chief of those Vestments which the Sovereign and Knights-Companions make use of upon all solemn Occasions relating to the Order. That this Pattern was derived to us from the ancient _Greeks_ and _Romans_, is not at all to be disputed, since it so little varies in Fashion from their _Pallium_ or _Toga_; for the _Grecian_ Pallium was a sort of long Cloak, which only wanted a Collar or Cape, and the _Roman Toga_ as proper to them, as the _Pallium_ to the _Grecians_, and the Custom as Antique as _Romulus_ himself; for he is recited by _Plutarch_ to have worn it. The Pallium is more fully described to be a kind of upper Robe that covered the whole Body, made fast on the right Shoulder with a Fibula or Clasp. It was usually worn over the Tunica or short Coat, whence the Proverb _Tunica Pallio propior_, and is more particularly observed to have been a Garment fashioned without Sleeves, that reached down to the Ancles.

IN describing this upper Robe, called the _Mantle_, (the Sovereigns being distinguished from the Knights-Companions, only by a long Train) we shall first set down its various Appellations it is mentioned by in the Records of the Order; Secondly, the Materials whereof it consists; Thirdly, the Colour; Fourthly, the Quantity; and last of all the Ornamental Trimmings, that nothing be omitted to satisfy any curious Enquirer.

NAME.

IN the Founder’s Statutes it is called _Mantellum_, and in _Hen._ V. _Manteau_, both which we render _Mantle_. But the Exemplar of the Founder’s Statutes entred in the black Book, and the Statutes of King _Henry_ VIII. call it _Trabea_, which _Rosinus_ reckons among the different Kinds of _Mantles_ or _Gowns_. And in 20 _Art._ of King _Hen._ VIIIth’s Statutes, it is applied both to the _Mantle_ and _Surcoat_; sometime it is stiled _Chlamyda_; sometime _Stola_; but in other Places more pertinently, _Pallium_ and _Toga_.

MATERIALS.