Part 32

Other sources of municipal revenue here, are the _fairs_ and _markets_. Of the former there are only two in the year: one of these is very considerable and celebrated, but was much more so in former times. It is commonly called _the mart_, or the _Lynn mart_, and commences on the 14th. of February, when it is with great formality _proclaimed_ {1157} to last for _six days_, but is generally allowed to continue about a _fortnight_. It is but the shadow of what it was formerly, when most of the town and country shopkeepers were then supplied with goods till the time of _Sturbitch fair_, where they procured a fresh supply. But the latter also is now sunk into great comparative insignificance. Both of them therefore might now be discontinued without any material loss, except to those concerned with their respective revenues. The other Lynn fair is held on the 17th. of October, and is called the _cheese fair_. It was formerly, it seems, a respectable fair, but is now become so inconsiderable and insignificant as not to require or merit here any further notice.

Besides the _Fairs_, there are at Lynn _two weekly markets_, one on _Tuesday_ and the other on _Saturday_. They are kept in two different parts of the town: the former towards the north end, on a spot called the _Tuesday market-place_; which is a spacious area of about three acres, surrounded by very good houses, and having, on an ascent of four steps, a beautiful free stone _Market Cross_, of modern architecture, built in 1710, adorned with statues and other embellishments, with a peristyle round below, supported by 16 pillars of the Ionic order, as also another walk above, encompassed with an iron palisade, enriched with tracery work and foliage, enclosing a neat octagon room, on the outside of which, in niches, were standing four statues, representing the cardinal virtues, and facing the four cardinal points. The upper part is finished with a cupola, in which hangs the market-bell, and the whole is 70 feet high. The foundation having given way on the west side, it is thought the building ere long must be taken down. From the cross, in a semicircular direction on each side, extends a range of covered stalls or shambles, having a small turret at each end. The _fish-market_, which formerly stood behind the cross, has lately been taken down, and since that time the fish-market is in Common-stath-yard, where a convenient building had been previously constructed for that purpose.

[Picture: Market Cross, pub.D Feb.y 1ST 1810, by W. Whittingham, Lynn]

The _Saturday Market_ is kept in a convenient area opened of late years near St. Margaret’s church, where capacious shambles have been erected, over which the Grammar School is kept. Before 1782 it was kept in that part of High Street which is next this church; but which being found inconvenient, the present spot was prepared for that purpose, and it is on the whole a good commodious market-place. It was however, with great reluctance that the market people quitted their former station, and consented to remove to the new one, though it must have been evident to all that the latter was far preferable. But that was only the natural effect of that strange attachment which most people feel for old habits and customs. Both the Lynn markets are plentifully supplied with good and excellent provisions, and at as reasonable a rate as can well be expected in these strange times, when our _guinea_ is of no more value than the _shilling_ of our ancestors. But we will here close this section. {1160}

SECTION VII.

_Present stele of Lynn_, _as to its shipping_, _trade and commerce_, _exports and imports_, _population_, _&c._

In former times, and even at some pretty remote periods, Lynn stood high among our English sea-ports, in regard to its shipping. Hence, as long ago as the year 1374, when Edward the III was fitting out an expedition against France, and required his principal sea-ports to furnish ships to enable him more effectually to accomplish his purpose, he is said to have had from Lynn 19 ships, when London sent only 24, Bristol 25, Plymouth, 26, Sandwich 22, Dover 21, Weymouth 20; and Newcastle only 17, Hull 16, Harwich 14, and Ipswich 12. So that Lynn appears to have been then among the first of our sea-ports, as to the number of its ships, or the extent of its trade and commerce. In after ages it is supposed to have maintained its rank among its sister ports; but we are not able to ascertain the exact degree of its weight and consequence among them during all the subsequent periods.

Of late years our trade and commerce have fluctuated with the times, and our shipping and tonnage have increased or decreased according to the natural operation of a state of peace or of war. In 1776, being the earliest period at which any record appears to have been preserved of them, the number of trading vessels belonging to this port {1161} was 85, and the amount of tonnage 12,700; in 1777 and 1778, ( and probably in 1779,) they continued in much the same state, as appears from a MS. account which belonged to a late shipmaster: but in 1780, or 1781, there was an increase, though we cannot learn how much. But in 1791 the ships were 125, and tonnage 17,000; in 1801, ships 108, tonnage 13,000; in 1806, ships 134, tonnage 15,600; in 1811, ships 106, tonnage 12,000.—From this it would seem, that our trade is not now in a progressive or thriving state; and though our shipping are still considerable in number, yet in point of _tonnage_ they are less than at any former period here referred to, or probably than at any one period since the commencement of the present reign. What effect a peace would have, it is impossible precisely to say, but the probability is, that our trade would then revive, and things revert again into their old channels.

The trade of this town formerly to different parts of the continent was very considerable, and particularly to the Baltic; but it is now almost totally deprived of all its foreign trade; and except some little intercourse with Spain and Portugal, its trade is at present almost wholly confined to the importation of _Coals_, and the exportation of _Corn_ coastwise to different British ports. The quantity of coals imported these years is said to have been very great, and that of last year has perhaps exceeded any other year: and as that article bears a very heavy duty it has greatly helped to keep up the revenue of the custom-house. Foreigners, under the licence system, bringing the produce of the Baltic, may also be supposed to have contributed considerably to produce the same effect. The tables below will serve to cast some further light upon the subject, and help the reader to judge of the trade of this place for the last fifty years. {1162a}

As to the _Coal-trade_, which now constitutes the chief article or main branch of our remaining commerce, and which of late has employed so large a portion of our shipping, and is thought likely to decline considerably this year (1812,) owing to the price of that commodity having been lately lowered, so as to diminish the profits so much, that it will be no longer worth the while of the private ship-owners, who are pretty numerous, to employ their vessels in the trade: and it is supposed that they will therefore be obliged to lay them up. This seems a great hardship upon them, for which our principal merchants are much blamed, whether justly or not, the present writer will not take upon him to say. Powerful merchants, most certainly, as well as powerful men of other professions, have before now acted very unfairly and oppressively towards their weaker neighbours.

The trade to _Greenland_ and to _Davis’s Straits_, or what is called the _Whale Fishery_, is another branch in which Lynn has been concerned for many years: and as it is still persevered in, it may be presumed to have proved no ungainful concern. The ships fitted out for this trade generally sail in March and return about July. Three or four ships have been usually employed in this trade, and sometimes more, but we understand that there are only two fitted out this year. Some ships also of late years have traded between this town and Canada, chiefly, we believe, for timber: and as we are now quite shut out from the Baltic, this trade will probably increase. On the whole, we presume it may be very truly said, that the trade of Lynn is at this time at a lower ebb than it was ever known to be at any time within the last hundred years or more. When we shall have driven the French out of Spain and Portugal, and obliged Napoleon to restore all his conquests, and allow us a free trade to every part of the continent, it may be hoped it will once more revive and flourish as much as ever.

The _population_ of Lynn is _between ten and eleven thousand_. The census taken in 1801 fixed it at 10,097, and that taken in 1811 at 10,253. But there is no reliance to be placed on the accuracy of either. The real population probably exceeded both these numbers, and it is uncertain at which of the two periods was the most numerous. Some have thought that it must have been in 1801, and the present writer was once of that opinion. What led him to that conclusion was, the great and unusual number of untenanted houses found in different parts of the town in 1810, amounting in all to _above one hundred_. But observing, upon further deliberation, that a still greater number of new houses, of a smaller rent, had lately sprung up in certain alleys and outskirts of the town, and all tenanted, he was induced to relinquish his former opinion, and conclude that our population had not actually decreased. Nor can he now help thinking the real population of the town at each of those periods to have much exceeded the numbers made out by the respective persons employed on the occasion; and moreover, that our present population is not below 10,500 souls.

Of this population, it is a melancholy consideration that the greatest part are still very ignorant and unenlightened, and never frequent any place of worship, and are in fact in a state of mere heathenism, though they are all absurdly considered as members of the established church. It is indeed by such members that this same church is enabled so greatly to outnumber our great body of dissenters, or the nonconforming party throughout the nation. Were only the sober and devout on each side to be numbered, it is highly probable that the established church, with all its vast wealth, and alliance with the state, would be found to be the minor party. As to the regular communicants, it is the opinion of some, that even the very methodists alone could at present muster a number not inferior to those of our establishment. Be that as it may, it must be exceedingly absurd and stupid to consider the ignorant, the irreligious, and heathenish part of the community as belonging to any church at all.

The religious functionaries or ministers of this town, both churchmen and dissenters, are allowed to be in general very assiduous in the discharge of their clerical and ministerial duties; and were they at the same time less subject to prejudice, bigotry, and intolerance, and more disposed to believe what their Lord and Master has declared, that _they who are not against us are for us_, they would certainly deserve great commendation. But they and their flocks are, _for the most part_, so deficient in the articles of christian charity, forbearance, and liberality, that they may be said to dishonour the very cause they have espoused, and the service in which they are embarked. The more orthodox and evangelical they pretend to be, the more uncharitable and intolerant they are generally found. Their evil spirit of intolerance and infallibility seems to carry them so far as hardly to allow those who stand without the pale of their respective communions to be worthy of even the name of christians. Sometimes they have been heard to pronounce such as they fancied to be heterodox, as presuming to _teach men to be christians without believing any one principle of that institution_; as if God had endowed them with the infallible knowledge of christian truth, and constituted them judges of the very state and destinies of their fellow professors. It was a saying in the primitive times, “See how these christians love one another;” but here it might rather be said, “See how these christian parties and sects envy, vilify, and hate one another.” In short, they may be said to possess so large a portion of that unworthy spirit of jealousy and rivalry as would disgrace even the meanest tradesmen, or the very lowest orders of shopkeepers and mechanics: and what is still worse, they seem quite incapable of blushing for their absurd and unchristian conduct. There are however some honourable exceptions to this representation, though they seem to be very few. But we will now close this section, and here conclude the regular series of this history.

SUPPLEMENTARY SECTION;

(_containing divers recollections_, _corrections_, _and miscellaneous matters_:)—_defects in the plans and modes of public worship_, _or the usual proceedings in our religious assemblies—our gentry and tradesmen capriciously and absurdly distinguished—shrimp trade—water-works—brief account of certain public buildings previously omitted—additional hints relating to our grammar-school_, _our libraries_, _and present population_.

To what was said of our religious sects and parties in the preceding section, under the heads of rivalry, envy, uncharitableness, &c. it might justly have been added, that they are also very deficient in their modes of conducting public worship, or their way and manner of proceeding in their religious assemblies; and particularly in _neglecting_ as they do the _reading_ and _expounding_ of the scriptures. Things would be likely to come to a much better pass, if, at least, _half_ the time that is now spent in _preaching_ and _singing_ were appropriated to the important duties of _reading_ and _expounding_ the sacred writings. The minds and attention of the people, in that case, would be directed to the meaning and understanding of holy writ, and a spirit of enquiry after scripture knowledge could not well fail of being effectually promoted in our respective congregations. Instead of that, as the case now stands, or as the public ministry is at present conducted, the people seem in general as unacquainted with the scripture at the end of the year, as they were at the beginning of it, and quite unconcerned or indifferent about the matter. They appear to attend for some other purpose—that of mere amusement, or something very short of what they ought to have in view in attending the christian ministry. Most preachers seem, as if afraid to lay the scriptures at large before the people, lest they should attract too much of their attention, so as to induce them by degrees to read, think, and judge for themselves, or become actual searchers of the scripture, and indisposed to take every thing upon _trust_ from their ghostly guides: for notwithstanding our usual outcry against the _papists_, our priests and theirs are more nearly allied than is generally supposed. These hints, it is presumed, are not altogether unworthy of the serious consideration of the different religionists of this town. {1168}

Except these of the learned professions, and _very few_ besides, all the principal families of this town are in fact _tradesmen_; yet even these are here very capriciously and superciliously distinguished into _gentlemen_ and _tradesmen_; though the former retale their goods, or sell their commodities in small quantities, as well as the latter: and surely a man who buys corn by the bushel, the coomb, or the quarter, and sells coals by the chalder and half chalder, and his deals in any small quantity the buyer may wish, and his bottled wine by single dozens, is to all intents and purposes as much a tradesman as a grocer, a linen-draper, an ironmonger, or a druggist. What then is the ground of this distinction? Is it education? No: our tradesmen in general have been brought up at the grammar-school, and the others can seldom or ever pretend to any higher advantage. Nor do they possess minds more cultivated by reading and knowledge of the world; for there is every reason to believe that the tradesmen are at least their equals in those respects, and some of them perhaps very much their superiors. But is not fortune or _wealth_ the ground of this distinction? No: many of those denominated tradesmen are known to be much more wealthy, as well as much more intelligent and respectable, than some of those who have arrogated to themselves the dignified name of gentlemen. On what then can this curious distinction be founded? It may very truly be answered, On pride, arrogance, ignorance, impertinence, and vulgar servility. {1169}

In treating of our trade and commerce, in the preceding section, that remarkable branch or article, the _shrimp-trade_, was quite forgotten; and some perhaps may think that it might as well still remain so: others however will be of a different opinion; at least when they learn that beside what has been consumed in the town and parts adjacent, and up the country, there have been actually sent from hence to London alone, by the stage coaches, in one season, or within a year, no less then between _sixty and seventy tons of shrimps_. {1170} It is a vast quantity to be sent by land, and coach carriage, to the distance of a hundred miles. We have not learnt how long this trade has been kept up on this large scale. It is said to have somewhat declined since the Bostonians have taken it up and become our rivals. But this rivalship can do no harm, as London, no doubt, will readily receive as many shrimps as both these towns can possibly furnish.

[Picture: N. E. View of the Kettle Mills or Waterworks]

The _Water-works_ of this town are also among the articles overlooked in the preceding part of this history. It is agreed on all hands that Lynn is supplied with excellent water from the Gaywood river, a stream that takes its rise about Grimston, six or seven miles off. At the Kettle-mills, in the north-east outskirt of Lynn, this water is raised into a reservoir, which is between 30 and 40 feet higher than the surface of the water in the river. Formerly there were two engines used for this purpose. One of them was worked by a fall of water in the river, and the other by horses. This latter was used when the water-engine was under repairs, or in dry seasons when the water-engine had not sufficient power to supply the town. In very dry seasons the hire of horses was very expensive. About the year 1779 or 1780 the water-engine became unfit for further use. A new one being then erected on better principles, had near three times the power of the old one. Thus the town was plentifully supplied with water for some years, and at a small expense, as the horse-engine was seldom used. But unfortunately the corporation came afterwards to a resolution to have the town supplied with water by the force of _steam_. A fire-engine was erected, which afforded an ample supply of water to the town; in consequence of which the horse and water engines were taken down. But the corporation, neglecting to avail themselves of the improvements of Bolton and Watts, erected their engine on the old principle of Newcomen; and it was soon discovered, to the astonishment of the unlearned in hydraulics, that the expense of coals and repairs amounted to a sum so far beyond the calculation of the corporation, that it was absolutely necessary to purchase no more steam at that rate.—The town is now supplied by an engine turned by water; but as it is constructed on old principles, the town, in dry seasons, must be ill-supplied and much distressed: and as the steam engine is become unfit for further use, the town must always be without a drop of water while the water engine is under repairs, which sometimes takes up more than a fortnight. This is an inconvenience which the town is said never to have experienced until the late alterations were made. On the whole therefore, this business appears to have been injudiciously managed; so that it would be very desirable to see it put upon a better footing, which it certainly ought to be, as there has lately been an advance made in the water-rate—for which no plausible reason is known to have been yet assigned, any more than for the unexpected advance in the price of _beer_.

In our preceding account of _the public buildings_, it now appears that divers of them have passed unnoticed, and particularly the _Theatre_, the _Custom-Haute_, and the _Town-Hall_; each of which we shall now briefly describe. The _Theatre_ was originally the Hall of an opulent company, which constituted one of our numerous _Guilds_, that of _St. George_. After the dissolution of the Guilds it was converted it seems into a kind of _Exchange_, and after that into a _court-house_, for holding the county quarter sessions of the peace. Since those sessions were allowed to be held in the town-hall it has been converted into a Theatre, or Play-house, which is said to be very convenient and neat, neither profusely ornamented nor disgustingly plain; and although not free from faults, yet they are, it seems, what resulted from the architect having to fill up the shell of an old building which had been erected for another purpose. The usual time of performing here is in the Spring, when the inhabitants are entertained by the Norwich Company.

The _Custom House_ was erected for an _Exchange_, in 1683, by Sir John Turner, the founder it is supposed of that family. It is a handsome free-stone building, with two tiers of pilasters, the lower of the Doric, and the upper of the Ionic order, with a small open turret, terminating in a pinnacle. In a niche, in front, is a statue of king Charles the second, that _most religious_ king, as his bishops and clergy used to call him, even in their addresses to the deity. This building contains several commodious apartments, well suited for the accommodation of the respectable collector of his majesty’s customs and his numerous underlings.—It has been noticed before that the revenue of this house, in 1806 amounted to 84,200_l._ and the last year (1811,) to 75,300_l._ which is said to exceed the revenue of most houses of the same description in the kingdom. {1173}

[Picture: Custom House, published Oct. 1, 1810, by W. Whittingham, Lynn]

[Picture: The Town Hall, Jail House, published April 1810, by W. Whittingham, Lynn]