Chapter 2

"Richard Collier by his will dated Jan 23 1532, benevolently left a small estate, at Stratford le Bow in the county of Middlesex to be sold, and the product to be laid out in the purchase of a school house at Horsham, where he was born." {31} The children enjoying the privileges of this charity, are annually selected by the vicar and churchwardens with eight of the most "honest" inhabitants, they are allowed to remain till the age of 14 and any number may at the discretion of the school wardens, be instructed in the Latin language. It is expressly ordered in the will, that the children elected, should be the offspring of "poor people, in especial of the said parish, and next about the same, to be educated in reading, writing, arithmetic, and the principles of the Christian religion." The charitable founder also bequeathed to the Mercers' Company, a house and premises in Cheapside London, for the support of the master and usher, whose annual salaries are, 120l. for the former, and 80l. for the latter. The school house is situated in a peculiarly delightful and romantic situation, with a pleasant croft in front, extending to the east side of the church yard; the accompanying wood-cut represents the west front of the building.

[Picture: The British Schools]

The National School is held in the church porch, where great numbers of the younger children of the poor are instructed.

A very neat building, denominated Denne School, has been erected in a delightful situation, at the foot of the hill, from which it takes its name, for the education of the girls of the neigbouring indigent persons.

In the back lane, the members of the church of England, have instituted an infant school, which appears a very pleasant object in this hitherto neglected portion of the town.

The Royal British Schools are also well worth the inspection of the visitor: the boys are taught reading, writing, grammar, linear and perspective drawing &c.

To the North of Horsham, on Hurst hill, is Moated House, formerly belonging to the family of the Westons: this mansion was the residence of Robert Hurst ob. 1483, whose monument in the church, the reader will remember.

[Picture: North Chapel]

Nearer the town, is a very ancient building formerly belonging to lord Hoo and de Hastings, whose remains are interred in the church: a farm house at present the property of the duke of Norfolk alone marks the site of this once splendid and princely edifice.

[Picture: Chesworth House]

Chesworth, one of the oldest houses in the county, was formerly as before said, the residence of the noble family of Braose, this truly romantic structure is situated a little to the south east of the town, of which it is one of the chief objects of interest. The unfortunate Thomas duke of Norfolk, who fell a victim to the malignant jealousy of Queen Elizabeth, was apprehended here, A.D. 1571. It is said that the papers concealed by Higford, and which led to his conviction, were discovered under the roof of this building. Several apartments of very spacious dimensions, but of whose existence the inhabitants were totally ignorant, were discovered through accident, by a maid servant about 20 years since. The chapel now used as a wash-house, is still quite perfect, and of great height: several niches for the statues of saints, and receptacles for holy water, may be discovered in the sides: through the falling of part of the wall, a few years ago, several Roman coins were dug up, from which circumstance, it has been by some persons imagined, that the place was originally a Roman villa.

To the west of the town, is Hills place, or rather the remains of an elegant residence, so called; it was formerly the property of the lords Irvine, and was considered a very handsome specimen of the domestic architecture of the age, in which it was erected. It was taken down a few years since, and no vestige left to mark its site, save the remnants of a farm house in existence before the building of the mansion itself, and part of a wing added to the structure, on the marriage of lord William Ingram, one of the family.

[Picture: Hills place, 1787]

In one of the upper rooms, is a venerable escocheon, with the motto "In coelo quies," serving to exclude the wind from the antique chamber.

On a lofty eminence denominated Denne hill, the visitor may obtain a very beautiful view of the town of Horsham, with its adjacent hills behind, the interesting church appears by far the most conspicuous object in the wide extended landscape, while the small and winding branch of the river Arun, which takes its rise in the adjacent forest of of St. Leonard, contributes not a little to heighten the beauty, and diversify the scene, of this truly delightful and extensive prospect.

At a short distance from the spot where this romantic view may be obtained, the ivied tower, and venerable battlements of Denne house, proudly rise upon the sight. The spot upon which this edifice stands, is particularly interesting, being generally supposed by antiquarians to be the site of a Danish encampment, during a conflict with the Picts, who made choice of an opposite eminence, still retaining the name of Pict's hill, while the one we have just described preserves the appellation of Denne (undoubtedly derived from Dane) hill. The estate formerly belonging to the family of Braose, was forfeited to the crown, with other lands, on the attainder of Thomas duke of Norfolk into whose possession it had fallen: in the year 1594, it was awarded by Sir William Covert and Sir John Caryll to James Boath, by whom it was sold five years afterwards to Stephen Barnham of London for 1250l. Shortly afterwards however the two sons of the last mentioned person, parted with it to Sir Thomas Eversfield for the sum of 5500l.

[Picture: Denne House]

After passing through the hands of several of his descendants, it devolved to William Markwick esq, who took the name of Eversfield, and to whose grandson a minor it now belongs.

[Picture: Warnham Church]

Continuing along the London road from Horsham for about 3 miles and then pursuing the road to the left, we arrive at the picturesque, secluded, and delightful little village of Warnham, bounded on the east by Rusper, west by Slinfold, south by Itchingfield, and north by Capel, and containing in 1831, 952 inhabitants. The village is lather extensive, and consists principally of one long narrow street, running N. and S., the church on the west side is particularly neat, though exhibiting a variety of style, and consists of a nave and south aisle, with three chancels: the northern of these latter portions is divided from the south aisle, by a handsome oaken skreen, carved in the Gothic style, and formerly belonged to the Carylls. On the north side is a curious old mural monument, bearing the effigies of a man in armour and a woman kneeling; below are 8 smaller figures intended for their children, with another person armed, in the centre. The inscription informs us that it was erected to the memory of Sir John Caryll Knt., eldest son of Thomas Caryll esq. of Warnham, and Maria his wife, daughter of George Cotton of Warblington, ob. 1613. The south chancel belonged to the Mitchell family of Field Place, and contains monuments to the memory of Mary Mitchell widow, mother of Edward Shelley esq., by Sir Timothy Shelley gent, ob. 1731; John Mitchell gent. 1711: John Shelley esq. 1799; Mary his wife 1759: Edward Shelley esq., of Field place 1747. The centre chancel, formerly belonging to the appropriation, is at present, in conjunction with the other two, the property of Sir Timothy Shelley Bart. In the body of the church are slabs to Samuel Shuckford, 45 years vicar of Warnham and Eartham, Ann his widow, and Matthew Napper gent. In the pavement of the south aisle, the side of an altar tomb, adorned with shields and quatrefoils, and apparently of the time of Edward I, may be discerned: the font is square, and of the same date; the pulpit stands upon a basement of brick, which gives it a particularly singular appearance: the neat embattled tower contains five bells, and is of later construction than the rest of the building.

[Picture: Monument of Sir John Caryl]

Warnham Court, a handsome mansion in the style of Elizabeth, and a very striking feature of the surrounding country, was erected about three years since, by Henry Tredcroft esq.: the house contains about 50 apartments, and is built of brick faced with stone: the grounds are tastefully arranged, and the park, though so recently laid out, assumes a beautiful and verdant appearance.

[Picture: Warnham Court]

To the south of Warnham, is Field Place, the residence for several centuries of the family of Mitchell. The only daughter of the Rev. Theobald Mitchell, married the late Sir Bysshe Shelley, by whose son Sir Timothy, it is now possessed. Percy Bysshe Shelley, the celebrated poet and friend of Byron, was born here: a brief but interesting account of his life, may be found in Horsefield's "History of Sussex" vol. 2nd. under the description of Warnham.

[Picture: Field place]

To the east of Horsham, is a tract of land, containing between eight and nine thousand acres, called St. Leonard's forest: although its nearest point is seven miles from the upper part of Beeding, it is within the limits of that parish: the chief part of the soil is poor, it contained considerable quantities of iron stone, which was smelted, but as the timber became exhausted, the smelting of the iron has been long discontinued, and nothing remains to denote the former manufactory of cast iron, but several large ponds in various parts of the forest, still called Hammer ponds.

This forest has ever been the subject of the legends of neighbouring peasants, woe (according to their account) to the luckless wight, who should venture to cross it alone on horseback during the night, for no soon will he have entered its darksome precincts, than a horrible decapitated spectre in the shape of a former squire Paulett, disregarding all prayers or menaces, leaps behind him on his good steed, and accompanies the affrighted traveller to the opposite boundaries.--The celebrated St. Leonard also, through whose efficacious prayers

"The adders never stynge, Nor ye nyghtyngales synge,"

in its gloomy mazes is often the theme of the cottagers fire side conversation.

But neither ghost, nor cast iron, nor saint Leonard himself, have gained for this forest so much celebrity as its famous DRAGON, or serpent! This venemous reptile, which some persons have rendered into some obnoxious proprietor, has been honoured with a long and minute description in the following account.

"True and wonderful, A discourse relating to a strange monstrous serpent or dragon, lately discovered, and yet living to the great annoyance and divers slaughters both of men and cattle by his strong and violent poyson, in St. Leonard's forest, and thirtie miles from London, this present month of August, 1614, with the true generation of serpents. Printed at London by John Trundle 1614.

In Sussex there is a pretty market towne, called Horsam, neare unto a forest called St Leonard's forest, and there in a vast unfrequented place, heathie, vaultie, full of unwholesome shades and overgrown hollowes, where this serpent is thought to be bred; but wheresoever bred, certaine and too true it is, that there it yet lives. Within three or four miles compass are its usual haunts, oftentimes at a place called Faygate, and it hath been seene within half a mile of Horsam, a wondre no doubt most terrible and noysome to the inhabitants thereabouts. There is always in his tracke or path, left a glutinous and slimy matter (as by a small similitude we may perceive in a snail) which is very corrupt and offensive to the scent, in so much that they perceive the air to be putrified withall, which must needs be very dangerous: for though the corruption of it cannot strike the outward parts of a man, unless heated into blood, yet by receiving it in at any of our breathing organs, (the nose or mouth) it is by authority of all authors writing in that kinde, mortal and deadlie; as one thus saith,

'Noxia serpentum est admixto sanguine pestis.--LUCAN.'

The serpent, or dragon as some call it, is reputed to be nine feete or rather more, in length, and shaped almost in the forme of an axle-tree of a cart, a quantitie of thickness in the middest, and somewhat smaller at both ends. The former part which he shootes forth as a necke, is supposed to be about an ell long, with a white ring as it were of scales about it. The scales along his backe, seeme to be blackish, and so much as is discovered under his bellie, appeareth to be red: for I speak but of no nearer description than a reasonable ocular distance; for coming too neare, it hath already been too dearely paid for, as you shall heare hereafter. It is likewise discovered to have large feete, but the eye may be deceved, for some suppose that serpents have no feete, but glide along upon certain ribbes and scales, which both defend them from the upper part of the throat unto the lower part of their bellie, and also cause them to move much the faster. For so this doth, and rids away as we call it, as fast as a man can run. He is of countenance very proud, and at the sight or heareing of men and cattle, will raise his necke upright, and seem to listen and looke about with great arrogancie. There are likewise on either side of him discovered two great bunches, so big as a large footeball, and as some think will grow to wings, but God I hope will so defend the poor people in the neigbourhood, that he shall be destroyed, before he growe so fledge.--He will cast his venome about 4 roddes from him, as by woeful experience it was proved on the bodies of a man and woman coming that way, who afterwards were found dead, being poysoned and very much swelled, but not preyed upon. Likewise a man going to chase it and as he imagined to destroy it with two mastiff dogs as yet not knowing the great danger thereof, his dogs were both killed, and he himself glad to returne with haste to preserve his own life: yet this is to be noted that the dogs were not preyed upon, but slaine and left whole, for his food is thought to be for the most part in a conie warren, which he often frequents, and it is found to be much scanted and impaired, in the encrease it had wont to afford.--These persons, whose names are here under printed, have scene this serpent, besides divers others, as the carrier of Horsam, who lieth at the White Horse, in Southwark, and who can certifie the truth of all that hath been herein related.--

"John Steele, "Christopher Holder, "And a widow woman dwelling at Faygate."

Previously to the reformation, St. Leonard's forest contained two chapels, one of which is mentioned as early as the year 1320. No traces of either remain at the present day.

* * * * *

Proceeding from Horsham along the London road, and passing Thornton ville, a collection of houses lately erected by the person resident at Springfield, we arrive at Coolhurst, the delightful and elegant mansion of the Marchioness of Northampton: the vicinity of this seat was lately rendered particularly interesting by a romantic and beautiful glen called Dubbin's Green, one of the wildest and most secluded spots in the district, but it is greatly to be lamented, the enclosing of the adjacent common, has almost entirely destroyed the beauty of the scenery, and robbed the visitor of a truly rural and picturesque treat. Continuing along the turnpike road for some distance, and then inclining to the right, the pretty little village of Nuthurst, with its modest spire peeping amidst the lowly cottages which constitute the single street is display before the sight. To the east of the parish is a portion of St. Leonard's forest, and a part of the parish of Cowfold: to the west Horsham, and part of Broadwater; to the north another portion of the forest; and south Cowfold. The district is peculiarly rich and beautiful, abounding in springs of excellent water in every direction. The church, of the time of Edward III, and dedicated to St. Andrew, is in the early style of English architecture, with a low tower, containing 3 bells, and surmounted by a low shingled spire, at the west end. The roof is pannelled in a similar manner to the church at Horsham; the ribs and knots of two pannels are gilt and painted. The communion window contains remnants of stained glass, representing the Salvator Mundi, and two angels scattering incense. The monumental inscriptions are to the memory of Joseph Tuder esq. of Sedgewick park, 1774: Rebecca Nelthorpe his niece, 1784; William Nelthorpe esq., 1791: Elizabeth Nelthorpe 1801; Eliza Sarah wife of James Tuder Nelthorpe esq. of Nuthurst lodge, died at Paris 1826, and was interred in the cemetry of Pere la chaise; John Aldridge of New Lodge, 1803: John Warburton Aldridge son of the above, 1801: Samuel Aldridge 1773: Sophia Aldridge 1769. The font is plain and octagonal.

[Picture: Nuthurst Church]

Near Nuthurst in a very delightful situation, commanding extensive views of the sea and south downs, is Nuthurst Lodge, the residence of James Tuder Nelthorpe esq.: at a very short distance from the mansion, are the remains of an ancient castle or hunting seat, surrounded by an oute and inner moat, of a circular form, and traceable everywhere; the foundations of the walls are quite visible, and one apartment of a sexagonal shape is entirely perfect. About 40 yards farther on, surrounded by copse wood, and over hanging trees, is a small well of a circular form, and surrounded by cut stone overgrown by moss: a flight of winding steps, leading to it, from an adjacent eminence, adds a peculiarly romantic and pleasing effect to this venerable work of antiquity, which is known by the name of the Nun's Well. No account is to be found of its history, though it may perhaps have belonged to the neighbouring castle. The traditions among the inhabitants affirm, that a subterraneous passage connects this castle with the nunnery at Rusper, which is 8 miles distant, but no attempt has been undertaken to ascertain the truth of this conjecture. Passing over Tower Hill, an eminence near Horsham, we arrive at the village of Itchingfield, or Hethinfield as it was formerly called. The earliest notice of this place, is to be found in an ancient deed A.D. 1233, when "Hugh de Mabel and Susanna his wife, sold to Robert atte Feching, one messuage and half a carucate of land, at Hethinfield." The parish is bounded on the east by Horsham, south by Shipley, west by Shipley, and north by Slinfold, and contained in 1831, 349 inhabitants. The church dedicated to St. Nicholas is of the time of Henry III, or Edward the I. Its exterior is particularly rustic especially the low tower at the west end, which is formed of entire trunks of trees fastened together by wooden bolts. Against one of the walls of timber in the belfry is an ancient painting representing Moses receiving the ten commandments on mount Sinai, it was most probably used as a kind of altar piece.

[Picture: Itchingfield Church]

In the chancel is a mural monument to the memory of Richard Wheatly gent, ob. 1668, and some members of his family, who were nearly allied to the Mitchells of Field place. There is also another inscription to the memory of the Rev. Alexander Hay, former rector of the parish, 1724, also several of his children. Dallaway mentions that after the Scotch rebellion in 1715, some of the attained persons took refuge in the woods of Itching field, and were permitted to reside with their countryman Alexander Hay; indeed we can hardly imagine a more suitable place for concealment, than the parsonage house, situated as it was at that time, in the centre of a dense forest, through which there was hardly any passable road.

The last monumental inscription is for the Rev. Thomas Lavender a most exemplary minister of this parish, for upwards of 60 years, he died in the year 1776, at the age of 86.

The font is modern, but particularly neat and handsome; one of a very ancient description, was lately dug up in the churchyard.

[Picture: Farthing Bridge]

Proceeding along the turnpike road to the west of Horsham and passing Farthing Bridge, of which the annexed wood-cut is a representation, we reach Broad-bridge Heath, a delightful, picturesque, and salubrious plain, so called: by pursuing the centre road, the visitor will arrive at Stroud, a small hamlet about 3 miles from Horsham; it is chiefly remarkable for the elegant residence denominated Stroud park, belonging to --- Commerell esq.: the grounds around the house particularly deserve attention, and the sweetly retired situation of the fishing house, erected upon the banks of a lake surrounded by the majestic and noble trees for which this district is so justly celebrated, whilst the deep silence which pervades the whole, interrupted only by the rippling stream beneath, and the delightful choir of the feathered songsters, combine to render it, in every sense of the word, a most enchanting and delightful scene.

[Picture: Slinfold Church]

By taking the road to the left hand, on Broad-bridge heath, and again turning to the right at Lion's Corner gate, the village of Slinfold, to which the hamlet of Stroud belongs, soon appears in sight. "Fold" observes Mr. Dallaway, "is a termination frequently belonging to parishes within the weald and in distinction to Hume seems to be applied to those which were first cultivated in square inclosures, after the removal of timber and underwood. This observation belongs to the early Saxon aera; and it is evident that the name of almost every vilor or farm within the district is derived from them." The church build at the end of the village, was erected at the formation of the parish by bishop Ralph in 1230. It has a nave and north aisle with a small sepulchral chapel appendant. In this portion of the church which belongs to the manor of Dedisham, is a curiously sculptured female figure, destitute of any inscription, but traditionally said, to belong to a member of the family of Tregoz.--There are also two other mural monuments, with small painted alabaster effigies of women in the ancient dress of their times. The first of which we give a sketch, appears particularly "en bon point," and is represented kneeling on a cushion, in the act of prayer. The following inscription, now almost illegible, appears beneath.

[Picture: Tregoz monument] HERE LIETH KATHARINE BLOUNT, YOUNGEST DAUGHTER OF RICHARD BLOUNT ESQ., OF DEDISHAM, (DESCENDED FROM SIR WALTER BLOUNT KNT. LORD MOUNTJOY) AND MARY WIFE TO THE SAID RICHARD, DAUGHTER TO SIR WILLIAM WESTE, KNT., LORD DE LA WAR, WHICH KATHARINE DECEASED MARCH 1, 1617, IN THE 27TH. YEAR OF HER AGE. SHE LEFT HER ESTATE TO HER 4 SISTERS, VIZ. ELIZABETH, ANN, MARTHA, AND JANE, TO WHOSE PIOUS MEMORY THEY ERECTED THIS MONUMENT.

The remaining monument is to the memory of mistress Jane Blount, ob. 1614.

[Picture: Blount monument]

In the pavement is a large slab of Sussex marble, with an inscription to the memory of Richard Bradbridge gent., and Denys his wife, with their children, ob. 1633.

The tower is massive, and like all those in the Weald, surmounted by a spire of shingles, supported upon four upright beams of a length and diameter very seldom seen.