The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

Part 22

Chapter 223,451 wordsPublic domain

Painting, 13 -- by native races, 272 -- follows the bones of the body, 272 -- of clowns likened to that once in vogue in China and Japan, 276 -- -- the body by cave men, 270 -- practised by civilized men, 280 -- the body among Andaman Islanders, 276 -- -- -- Professor Moseley on, 272 -- -- eyes, practised by the prehistoric Egyptian, 6000 B.C., 271 -- -- face to hide the ravages of time, 278 -- -- -- -- heighten its beauty, 278 -- -- -- deaths due to, 279 -- -- -- of Japanese children, 273 -- -- -- -- -- actors, 273 -- -- feet scarlet by Hindu women, 273

Palettes, slate, in the form of two birds in prehistoric Egypt, 295 -- -- of the New Race, 271

Pall, 197 -- manufacture of, 196

Pallium, 195 -- development of the, 196

Palmerston's, Lord, broad-toed shoes, 335

Panache derived from the horn, 117

Pantaloon, 254, 261, 283, 285 -- Elizabethan costume of, 269, 285, =285=

Pantomimes, 269, 282

Pantomimi, 282

Papoose, swathing of American Indian, 164

Paré, Ambrose, on the suffering caused by the corps piqué, 325

Paris, waistbands, trade in, discarded, 348

Parliamentary officials, wigs of, 132

Parti-coloured dress of Athletic clubs, 313 -- -- -- jockeys, 313

Patches indicating political views, 279 -- of Charles I's reign banned by the Puritans, 278 -- reappear in Charles II's reign, 279

Pattern, pine, origin of, 311

Patterns, breeches of chequered, worn by Gauls and early inhabitants of England, 311

Peasant dress, slight survivals in England, 150; Plate VII, facing page 150

Pelisse obtained from Persia, 344

Pendants, 122

Pensioners, costumes of, 170

People, uncivilized, without pockets, 9

Persian women wear trousers, 81

Pet animals, collars worn by, 298

Perthshire, the bare feet of children in, 333

Petrie, Professor, on Romano-Egyptian portrait models, 132 -- -- -- buttons in Egypt, 120 -- -- -- the origin of a supposed shield-shaped ornament, 296

Petticoat at first not shaped, 73 -- hooped, 337

Petticoats, lengthening of, 166 -- of sailors, 252 -- -- small boys, 165

Pfiferari, cross gartering of, 68 -- leg bandages of, 68

Phallic worship, 122

Pig-tail, grease of, 252

_Pileus quadratus_, 212

Pillion, 140

Pin, safety, 101, 118 -- -- in hat, 104, =104= -- -- -- waistband, =103=, 104 -- -- like an Etruscan brooch, 102, =103= -- scarf, 118

Pinafore, 150

Pinafores now children's dress, 167

Pin-money, 105

Pinner, 150

Pins, bronze, 105 -- Egyptian, 105 -- found in Swiss Lake dwellings, 105 -- gold, 197 -- made of thorns, 125 -- of bone, 105 -- ornamental, 106 -- scarf, 106

_Pithecanthropus erectus_, 7

Plaid, 20, 187 -- belted, 72 -- shepherd's, 312

Plaids, 311

Plastron of Hussars, 148

Plowright, Dr., on the Moorish origin of some horse brasses, 293

Plugs for lips, 111

Plumes, black, of farriers of Life Guards, 242 -- why on left side, 58

Plush, 149 -- breeches, 104, =141=

Pocket flaps, vestiges of, 32, =33=

Pockets, 109 -- in the sleeves of a Corean, 110 -- side, 30 -- uncivilized people without, 9

Points, 98 -- on gloves, =96=, 98

Policeman's coat, buttons on the back of, 26, =26= -- uniform not worn by children, 163

Polly, Miss, in the Punch and Judy show, now extinct, 265

Polypus (= the octopus) changing colour, 206

Porters, livery of, 148 -- railway, waistcoats of, 148

Portugal, Queen of, demonstrates the evils of tight-lacing by means of radiographs, 325

Postilions, buttons on jackets of, 38 -- coats of His Majesty's, 145 -- of Lord Mayor, crest worn upon cap of, 92, =92=

Postulant, veil of, 202

Poupée derived from pupa, 163

Pouter coat, 141, =141=

Powder, 149 -- for hair, 131

Prayer-book, first, of Edward V, ornaments, rubric of, upheld by Act of Uniformity, 199 -- -- second, of Edward VI, 199 -- -- vestments prescribed by the, first, of Edward VI, 198

Prickers on the shoulder-belt of a Hussar, 239, =239=

Priest, =194=

Profession indicated by costumes, 316

Puggaree of Duke of Cornwall's Light Infantry, 243

Pulicinella, 254 -- means a hen chicken, 264 -- Oscan, of 1731, =256=

Punch, =263= -- a Roman mime, 183 -- and Judy, dress of, 137 -- -- -- show, beadle of, 147, 262, =264= -- -- -- -- doctor of, 263 -- -- -- -- Hector, the horse, extinct in, 267 -- -- -- -- Miss Polly, now extinct in, 265 -- back hump of, 262, =263= -- bronze statuette with face and features of, 258, =258= -- figures worked by wires, 255 -- front hump of, 253, 261 -- gay clothes of, in France and England, 261 -- in religious plays, 266 -- introduced into _Le Malade Imaginaire_, by Molière, 261 -- origin of clothes of, 257 -- -- --, hump of, 253, 261 -- ruff of, 262, =263= -- stick of, 260 -- the behaviour of, changes, 264 -- voice of, 264

Pupa, Greek name for a baby in swaddling clothes, 163

Puppet derived from pupa, 163 -- show of fourteenth century, 259, =259= -- shows in China, 259

Puritans and Quakers, fashions set by, 348

Purple as mourning, 182

Puttees, 66, =66=, 328 -- of Indian Army, 66

Pyjamas, 128 -- worn by ladies, 288

Pym, John, bands of, 46, =46=

Quakers refused to wear buttons, 119

Queued hair, 134

Quiver carried on a baldric, 106

Ra, 122

Rats, white, 302

Rank once indicated by dress, 319 -- indicated by dress in certain professions, 320 -- not usually shown by dress, 319

Ramillies, battle of, 244

Red cap of liberty, 306 -- not universal in the British Army, 308 -- rag of chulos in the bull fight, 306 -- ribbon of engaged girl, 306 -- rose of Lancaster, 306 -- shirt of the followers of Garibaldi, 306 -- tie of platelayer, 306

Regimental badges, 245

Revers buttoned back, 38, =39=

Reynolds, Mr. P. W., on the survival of a button, 248 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- forage cords, 241

Rhead, Mr., on the festal dress of Otaheite, 338

Richard II's time, chaperon of, 157

Rifle Brigade, busby of, 242 -- -- cross belt of, 242

Ring, 195 -- for nose of Hindu ayahs, 111 -- in Ireland, bearing clasped hands, 116 -- of Bishop Agilbert of Paris, 114

Rings, betrothal of Greeks, 115 -- -- -- Romans, 115 -- engagement, 114 -- Egyptian, of blue pottery of faïence, 116 -- Episcopal, 114 -- finger, in Babylon, 114 -- -- -- Egypt, 114 -- for ears, 112 -- gimmal, 115 -- in which the stones stand for letters, 116 -- sacred eye on, 117 -- signet, 83, =85= -- -- in Egypt, 114 -- -- suspended from the neck, 116 -- used as an insignia of rank by Romans, 115 -- wedding, 114 -- -- worn by nuns, 204 -- why worn on third finger, 115

Robe, parliamentary, of the King, 222 -- coronation, eagles on, 222

Robes of companies, 138 -- -- a chancellor of a university, 210 -- -- borough councillors, 138 -- -- the Barons of the Exchequer, 218 -- worn on State occasions, 137

Robinson, Commander, on naval uniforms, 252

Robley, General, collection of Maori heads, 277

Rochet, 199, 221

Roman betrothal rings, 115 -- d'Alexandre, MS. of, 259

Romans cut their beards, 129 -- did not wear trousers, 77 -- shoes of open work of, 62, =63= -- tunic of, 191 -- use rings as insignia of rank, 115

Roses on Queen Victoria's mantle, 222 -- worn by Northumberland Fusiliers, 245 -- -- -- soldiers on St. George's day, 245

Roy and Adami, Professors, on the beneficial use of waist belts and stays, 332

Royalty, fashions arising from deformities of, 344

Rubies always fashionable, 123

Ruff, Elizabethan, of Toby, 253 -- of Toby, 263 -- worn by Punch, 262, =263=

Ruffles, 227

Ruffs of Elizabeth's reign, 48, 351

Russia, boots of bridegrooms removed by brides in, 177

Sackcloth as mourning, 181

Safety-pin, 101, =102=, =103=, =104=, 118

Sailor suit, 162

Sailors, European, tattooing practised by, 277 -- kilt of, 252 -- petticoat breeches of, 252 -- petticoat of, 252 -- trousers, method of buttoning, 252

St. Clement on women covering their heads in church, 205, 207 -- George, cross of, 158 -- Gregory the Great, costume of, 188, =188= -- John of Jerusalem, dress of Knights of, 321 -- Lucia, 244 -- Nicholas, dress of, 137 -- -- figure of, shows old dress, 267 -- Patrick, hood of the Order of, 230

Sapphires always fashionable, 123

Saragossa, battle of, 243

Sashes meant to be used as slings, 241 -- of officers, 249 -- worn over the left shoulder by sergeants of the Twenty-Ninth Foot, 249

Satchel carried on a baldric, 106

Savage, the female--a Merveilleuse dress, 346

Savages, colour preferences of, 307

Saxons parted or trimmed their beards, 129 -- wore trousers, 79, =79=

Scapular of nuns, 202

Scaramouch, 254, 261 -- a pantomimist, 286

Scarf, 191, 199 -- on ladies' hats, 149 -- pin, 106, 118

Scarves, 192

Sceptre, 221, 304

School, Blue-coat, 167 -- Bristol Red-Maids, 168 -- Wells Grey-Maids, 168

Schools, Green-coat, 168 -- Grey-coat, 168

Scotland, dress of heads of churches in, 200

Scottish Rifles, chaco of, 241

Scots Greys, 245 -- -- take their name from their horses, 303 -- -- Grenadier, caps of, 244 -- Guards, 248

Seal of Solomon, 293

Serapis, crown of, 117

Serjeant-at-law, Lord Lindley, last, 217 -- coif of, 216 -- robes of, 218 -- wig of, 215

Sergeants of Twenty-Ninth Foot wear sashes over their left shoulders, 249

Servant, clothing of master becomes that of, 5, 139

Servants' dress, 139

Sex idea, 165

"Shabbies," 268

Shamrock, 222

Shapka, 239

Shaving carried out with flint knives or pieces of shell, 127 -- of heads by Egyptians, 128 -- -- -- -- East End Jewesses, 127 -- -- the whole head, 127

Shawl, 16 -- as a head-dress, 61 -- the ancestral, 15 -- used as kilt by Danish chieftain, 72, =73=

Shells as ornaments, 112 -- cowry, on trappings of camels, 297, =299= -- -- -- -- -- donkeys, 297 -- -- -- -- -- Hussars, 297, =298= -- -- -- -- -- mules, 297, =299=

Shepherd, plaid of, 312

Shield, 83 -- heart-shaped, derived from a double bird, 296 -- of Black Prince, 87, =89= -- -- David, 293

Shirt front, origin of the, 44 -- survival of the, as an outer garment, 288

Shoe made from a flat piece of hide, 65 -- money in Bulgaria, 177 -- of raw hide, 64, =64=

Shoes, broad toed, of Henry VIII's reign, 335 -- gift of, by bridegroom to bride, 177 -- high heels of, 335 -- old, thrown at weddings, 176 -- ornamentation of modern, 62 -- part of wages, 177 -- pieces of old, worn by Eskimos to ensure fruitfulness, 178 -- removed from dead bodies to lay ghosts, 178 -- with preposterously long toes, 350 -- thrown over the heads of the O'Neils by the O'Cahans, 177 -- -- to ensure fruitfulness, 177

Shoulder knot, use of, 238

Siamese women wear trousers, 81; see Plate V, facing p. 81

Sicily, triskele in the coat-of-arms of, 119

Sign of the "Crooked Billet," 146

Signs derived from Royal badges, 91

Silk, forbidden, 351 -- stockings, 140, =141=

Simkin, Mr. R., explanation of the flash, 133

Sisters, lay, 204 -- Kilburn, 201, 202 -- of Mercy, 201

Skeleton dress, Dutch, 145, =145=

"Sketch, The," on cockades, 158

Skirt, long, dangerous nowadays, 358 -- -- disseminates germs, 358

Skirts, short, a recognized feature of children's costume, 163 -- simple, of a Danish chieftainess, 73 -- of lady gardeners damaged the plants, 358

Skull on head-dress of Hussars, 146

Skulls, bone inserted into prehistoric, 336

Sleeves, costume dated by, 210 -- detachable, of nuns, 202 -- hanging, 209, =209= -- hanging, of a chancellor of Oxford University, =211= -- slashed, prohibited, 350 -- velvet, of a Proctor, 321

Sling jacket of the Hussars, =81=, 239

Smock-frock, 18, =19=

Socks, 66

Soldiers, armlets conferred on, 114 -- boys dressed as, 163 -- dress previous to the Restoration, 236

Solicitor of Guards, uniform of, 247 -- -- -- cocked hat of, 247

Solomon, seal of, 293

Somersetshire Light Infantry, cavalry mess jacket of, 242

Soul remaining in shoes, 178

Spaniard, dress of the, 318

Spatterdashes, 70

Spencer, Herbert, on fashions, 343

Spire, Siamese head-dress compared with a votive, 50, =51=

Sporran, =76=, 77

Spur leathers, 235

Staff, cross, 195 -- pastoral, 195

Star, 158

Statuette, bronze, of Punch, 258, =258=

Statute cap of Elizabeth, 168

Stays, original intention of, 323 -- Professors Roy and Adami on the beneficial use of, 332 -- theory that they are derived from swaddling clothes, 332

Steen, Jan, bands of, 46, =46=

Stick of camel driver survival of a sceptre, 304

Sticks, walking, 124

Stitching carried down the back of gloves, =97=, 98

Stoat, 222

Stockings, 66, 195 -- embroidered, 69, =69= -- leather, worn by William Penn, 70 -- of cloth, 68 -- open work, 69, =69= -- silk, 140, =141= -- yellow, of blue-coat boys, 167

Stocks of leather, 200

Stole, 193, 221

Stoles of deacons, 192

Stone Age, ornaments of, 112

Stones, precious, fashions in, 123 -- -- supposed attributes of, 123

Straps, shoulder, =74=, 75

Straw wisps on horses, 297

Streamers of sailor hat, 53, =53= -- -- Scotch cap, 53, =54= -- on barristers' gowns, 219 -- -- hats, 52, =52= -- -- head-dress of twelfth century, 53, =53=

Strings, cap, 149 -- on mitres, 54, =54=

Stripe on trousers, vestige of a row of buttons, =81=, 82

Stripes on sleeves of non-commissioned officers, 114

Stud, 118, =119=

Suit, sailor, 162

Sumptuary laws, 349, 350, 351 -- -- a hindrance to trade, 351 -- -- usually a failure, 349

Sun-bonnet of barge women, 61; see Plate VIII, facing p. 150

Sun-bonnets of horses, 300 -- -- -- market-garden women, 61

Surcoat, 83 -- of Black Prince, 87, 89 -- -- Henry Duke of Lancaster, 86, =86=

Surgeons of the Life Guards wear cocked hats, 247

Superstitions keep up fashions, 349

Surplice, 185, 195, 199 -- academical hood worn by clergy on a, 212 -- Mr. Macalister on the, 185 -- slit in front in order to go over big wigs, 185

Survivals of trade costumes (butchers), 308 -- supposed in naval dress, 252

Suspenders, 71

Surtout, 148

Swaddling clothes still used in the Holy Land, 333 -- -- theory that stays are derived from, 332 -- -- swallow-tail coat, evolution of, 33, =34= -- tails at Harrow, 170

Swastika, 119, 122; see Plate VII, fig. F, facing p. 129, 311 -- the forerunner of the cross, 311

Sword belt, not worn outside the coat, 26 -- handle, opening for, in coat, 30 -- in Court dress, 227 -- ivory hilted, worn by Eleventh Hussars, 244

Tab on soldier's coat, =29=, 30 -- -- side of coat, =31=, 32

Tabards of heralds, 83

Tags, metal, 100, =101= -- ornamental, 101, =101= -- useless on top boots, 66, =66=

_Tailor and Cutter_, Editor of, on clothes and nationality, 317

Talismans, wearing of, by ancient Egyptians, 122

Talith, 205

Tannin preserves woven material, 18

Tapir, spotted when young, 94; see Frontispiece

Tartan, Cameron, 242 -- wearing of, forbidden, 351

Tartans, Royal Stuart, 312 -- of Scotch clans, 312 -- dyes for, obtained from native plants, 313 -- clans with several, 312

Tattooing, 13 -- and mittens, 99 -- destroys the effect of nakedness even in Europeans, 277 -- effect of, produced by open-work stockings and blouses, 70 -- of the Maoris, 277 -- practised by early Egyptians, 277 -- -- -- European sailors, 277 -- -- -- modern sailors, 277 -- -- -- Jews, 277 -- -- -- practised by old inhabitants of this country, 277 -- scar, as a means of recognition, 276

Tax on elegant dress, 350

Teeth blackened by Hindu women, 273 -- -- -- Japanese women on marriage, 273

Thistle, hood of the Order of the, 230

Thistles, 222

Tie, white at, Eton, 169

Tierra del Fuegians, 11

Tights, 70 -- of acrobats, 286 -- a survival of Florentine hose, 286 -- -- knightly orders, 231

Tippet, 192, 212

Tippets of Doctors of Divinity, scarlet, 212 -- for ministers who are not graduates, 199

Tobit, dog in the Book of, suggested by Toby, 267

Toby, Elizabethan ruff of, 253 -- represented in China by a dragon, 267 -- -- -- France by a cat, 267 -- ruff of, 263 -- suggests the dog in the book of Tobit, 267

Toga, 187 -- replacement of, 192 -- when worn, 187

Toledo, Fourth Council of, 192

Tonsure, 217 -- of priests, 127

Topaz as a detector of poison, 124

"Toothpick" collar of dress coat, 43, =43=

Top-coat, 149

Trades, characteristic dresses of, 320

Trajan, trousers shown on the column of, 78

Tramway drivers, buttons on back of the coats of, 30, =31=

Treble, cockade, large, =152=

Trencher, 47, 213, =214=

Triangles, mystic interlaced, 293

Trimmings of judge's gown, altered in colour by Lord Coleridge, 218

Triskele in the coat-of-arms of the Isle of Man, 119 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Sicily, 119

Trousers, bell-bottom, 347 -- evolution of, 77 -- method of buttoning bishops', 252 -- not worn by Romans, 77 -- of labourers, method of buttoning, 252 -- -- sailors, method of buttoning, 252 -- shown on Trajan's column, 78 -- worn by barbarians, 78, =78= -- -- -- lady gardeners at Kew, 358 -- -- -- Normans, 79 -- -- -- Saxons, 79, =79= -- -- -- women in Siam, 81; see Plate V, facing p. 81 -- -- -- -- -- Persia, 81 -- -- in riding dress by ladies, 358

Trumpeters, State, uniform of, 242

Trumpington, Sir Richard de, brass of, showing chain mail, 234, =234=

Trunk hose of clown, 269 -- -- of Knightly Orders, 231

Tudor dresses, shown by playing cards, 231 -- flat cap, 214

Tunic, 16, 17, =17=, 187 -- developed from the shawl, 17, =18=

Tunic, Egyptian, 16 -- Greek, 16, =17= -- of monks, 201 -- sleeved, 17 -- survival of the Anglo-Saxon, 288

Tunica alba, 189

Tunicle, 195, 221

Tunics, black, of farriers of Life Guards, 242 -- of Anglo-Saxons compared with a shirt, 288 -- -- Lacedæmonian girls slit down the side, 346

Turban like the dome of a mosque, 50, =50=

Turquoises always fashionable, 123

Twenty-Ninth Foot, sergeants of, wear sashes over their left shoulders, 249

Twain, Mark, 341

Tylor, Dr., on finger-rings, 114 -- -- -- painting in war time by civilized races, 273 -- -- -- the tendency to give up savage ornaments, 111

Underclothes, lack of, 360

Ulster, 149

Uniforms, naval, 251 -- of Hussars, 272 -- -- Navy, date from 1767, 251 -- -- sergeant worn by extra drummer, 244 -- military, regular adoption of, 235 -- -- solicitor of Guards, 247 -- service, protectively coloured, 236 -- gay, only used in times of peace, 236

Union Jack on King's colours of Coldstream Guards, 246

Ushabti, models of servants put into Egyptian graves, 268

Veil of a bride, 175 -- -- novice, 202 -- -- nun, 202, =203= -- -- postulants, 202

Vergers, costume of, 218

Vermiform appendix, 3

Vestments, adoption of, by English High Church clergy, 192 -- baptismal, 164 -- ecclesiastical, 184 -- of High Church clergy, coloured, adopted by, 305 -- ornaments of, gradually acquired, 187 -- prescribed by the first Prayer Book of Edward VI, 198 -- prohibited by second Prayer Book of Edward VI, 199 -- of Presbyterian clergy, professional, 185 -- worn at the celebration of the Eucharist, =194=

Vestige of a row of buttons, stripe on trousers, =81=, 82 -- -- the coif from wig of a sergeant-at-law, 216, =217=

Vestiges, buttons on postilions, 38 -- of the fillet, 52, =52= -- in the animal kingdom, 3

Vickery, Dr. Alice, on children's dress, 165

Villiers-en-Couche, battle of, 244

Voice of Punch, 264

Vowesses, 183

Waist, wasp-like, 323

Wales', Prince of, feathers a hereditary badge, 90

Waistbands, trade in discarded, in Paris, 348

Waistbelts, Professors Roy and Adami, on the beneficial use of, 332

Waistcoat, 148

Waiter, 144

Waiters, evening dress of, 144, 151

Wand of harlequin, 283

Warp, 16 -- of hand loom, 117

Waterloo, battle of, 245

Watermen, badges of, 91

Wearing of talismans by ancient Egyptians, 122

Weddings, superstitions at, 176

Weights, leaden, used by women to flatten their chests, 338

Weeds, old meaning of the word, 182 -- widows, 182

Weft of hand loom, 117

Wells, Blue schools at, 168

Welsh Fusiliers, flash of, 241

Westminster, coats at, 169

Whips, fashions in, 303

Whiskers, effect of bushy, 130

White as mourning, 182 -- clothes of butterman, 320 -- -- -- man cook, 320

Widows, costume of, 198

Wig of coachman, 142, =142= -- of judge, 215, =216= -- -- -- depression in, 215 -- -- doctor in the Punch and Judy show, =264=

Wig-bag of Court dress, 227, =229= -- remnant of, 133 -- on liveries of servants, 134, =143= -- of Lord Mayor's coachman, 134, 143, =143=

Wigs, barristers', 132 -- coachmen's, 132 -- imitating curly hair, 130 -- footmen's, 132 -- judges, 132 -- legal, 215 -- of East End Jewesses, 127 -- -- Egyptians, 128 -- -- Parliamentary officials, 132 -- -- Serjeants-at-law, 215 -- value of, 228

Wilhelmstahl, battle of, 244

William Rufus, hanging sleeves of the time of, 209

Wimple, 175, =203= -- of Norman ladies, 202 -- of the time of the Plantagenets, 202

Winchester scholars, bands of, 169

Wolfe, General, black worm worn as mourning for, 242

Women, Arab, 122 -- -- ideas of modesty, 207 -- barge, apron of, 150; see Plate VIII, facing p. 150 -- colour preferences of, 307 -- covering their faces, 13, 206 -- dress of, varies little, 16 -- in church without hats, 13, 206 -- -- many places wear trousers, 357 -- married, not to wear caps, 350 -- milk, 150 -- -- yokes of, 110 -- Padaung, metal collars of, 114; see Plate VI, facing p. 114 -- rational dress for, 361 -- riding astride, 359 -- the first to wear clothes, 12 -- Welsh and Italian, age rapidly, 329

Wood, Mr. Walter, on white jackets for soldiers, 243

Woodville, Mr. Caton, on aiguillettes, 240

Worm, black, of East Yorkshire regiment, 242 -- -- mourning for Sir John Moore, 242 -- -- of North Lancashire regiment, 242 -- -- of Somersetshire Light Infantry, 242 -- -- worn as mourning for General Wolfe, 242 -- slow, third eye in, 3

Wristbands, 24

Yellow as mourning, 182 -- a favourite colour of gipsies, 306 -- mourning colour in Oriental countries, 307 -- worn by mediæval Jews, 307

Yeomen of the Guard, badges of, 224, =224=, 225 -- -- -- -- dress of, 223 -- -- -- -- duties of, 225 -- -- -- -- officers, dress of, 225 -- -- -- -- -- of, wear the uniform used in the Peninsular War, 225 -- -- -- -- original uniform of, 225

Yoke, =109=, 110 -- of milk woman, 110

Yoxall, Mr., on wearing of yellow by Jews, 306

PRINTED BY WILLIAM BRENDON AND SON, LTD. PLYMOUTH

Transcriber's note

Words in italics were surrounded by _underscores_ and in bold by =signs=.

Anchors for footnote 33 and 34 were added, after careful consideration where they should have been.

Some illustrations were slightly moved for reader convenience, but the bold numbers in the index, leading to the original pages, were not changed.

In the Index, errors in the alphabetical order were not corrected. Also in the Index, the item "Moseley" seemed to contain a footnote, which has been removed because it did not refer to anything. The original said: "see Plate X, fig. C1".

A few punctuation errors have been corrected silently. Also the following corrections were made, on page