Part 21

Edward II, beard of, 130 -- III, badge of, 91 -- -- beard of, 129 -- IV, beard of, closely shaven, 130 -- VII, robes worn at the coronation of, 222

Egypt, finger rings in, 114

Egyptian graves, models of servants put into, 268 -- pins, 105 -- rings of blue pottery, 116

Egyptians, ancient, bury amulets with their dead, 122 -- blackening eyelids, 270 -- early, tattooing practised by, 277 -- modern, tattooing practised by, 277 -- prehistoric, beads of, 112

Elizabeth, statute cap of, 168 -- Queen, stocking of, 68

Elizabeth's coronation glove, stitching carried on to the back of, =97=, 98 -- reign, ruffs of, 48

Elsyng, brass in church at, 86, =86=

Elves' arrows as pendants, 123

Elworthy, Mr., on horns of honour, 117

Embroidery carried on to the backs of gloves, 98, =99=

Emeralds always fashionable, 123

Epaulettes, 238 -- worn by the Gentlemen-at-Arms, 238 -- -- -- officers of the Yeomen of the Guard, 238 -- -- -- the Lords-Lieutenant of Counties, 238 -- -- in the Navy, 238

Ermine, 222 -- bands of, indicate rank, 223

Eskimos descendants of the cave men, 10 -- shoes, piece of old, worn by, to ensure fruitfulness, 178

Essex, fish-hooks made of thorns in, 125

Eton, gowns worn by scholars at, 169 -- jacket, 169 -- white tie at, 169

Etruscan brooch, safety-pin like an, 102, =103=

Eutropius, St., ceremony of garters, 71

Evolution, the principles applied to clothes, 1

Ewart, Sergeant, captures a French eagle, 245

Eyelashes, removal of, 128 -- lid, blackening of, by Egyptians, 270 -- sacred on rings, 117 -- stone or opal, 124 -- third in slow worm, 3

Executions, clothes worn at, become unfashionable, 353

Face plate of horse, amulets on, 294 -- sooty, of harlequin, 283

Facings, regimental, abolished in 1881, 238 -- why a different colour from that of the coat, 34

Fairholt on bandaged stockings, 67, =67= -- -- the origin of the mortar-board, 214

Fans called sunshades, 280 -- for blowing up a fire, 280 -- origin of, 280

Farces, Atella, celebrated for Italian, 254

Farthingale, 337

Fashion determines the amount of the body which is to be covered, 14

Fashions due to royal peculiarities, 131 -- gay, follow periods of depression, 345 -- in hair arrangement, 126 -- kept up by superstitions, 349 -- origin of, difficult to trace, 354 -- the killing of, 352

Favours, 192

Fawkes, Guy, 225

Feathers, objections to the wearing of, 121 -- of birds of paradise, 121 -- -- ostriches, 122 -- peacocks', unlucky because of eyes, 124 -- wearing of, 121

Ficorroni, 258

Field-Marshal's baton, 223

Fillet, 175 -- forerunner of the hatband, 52, =52= -- head, 149 -- vestiges of, 52, =52=

Finn, Huckleberry, 341 -- Mrs., on bells derived from flowers, 314

Fireman, helmet of, 60, =60= -- private, badge of, 91

Fisher folk, barefooted, 334

Fish, gold, with several tails, 303 -- hook made of a thorn in Essex, 125

Fitzroy, General, 244

Flaccus, Dr. Louis W., on the effect of clothes on the minds of school-girls, 339, 340 -- -- -- -- -- -- preference of girls for different articles of clothing, 340, 341

Flags, heraldic colours of, still worn as favours, 308

Flap, red, on busby, 59, =59=

Flash on Court dress, 228, =229= -- of Welsh Fusiliers, 133, =134=, 241

Fleshings, pink, of Merveilleuses, 346

Fleur-de-lys, 222, 293 -- on braid of drummers of the Guards, 246 -- removed from royal arms, 246

Flower, Sir William, on deforming of the foot, 334 -- -- -- -- injuries caused by tight lacing, 324 -- -- -- -- the most highly evolved foot, 333

Flowers, chaplet of, used after baptism, 164 -- wearing of, 121 -- worn at Eton on Fourth of June, 171 -- -- by a bride, 175

Folds of robes used as pockets by Arabs, 110

Foot, deforming of the, 334 -- gear, early, 62 -- Guards, drum-major's livery cap, 146 -- Sir William Flower on deforming of the, 334 -- -- -- -- -- the most highly evolved, 333 -- stunted, of Chinese woman, 335 -- the ideal in art, 333, 334

Footman, 140, =141=, 149 -- origin of dress, 139

Footmen, aiguillettes worn by, 240 -- flaps of, 32, =33= -- wig of, 132 -- with powdered hair, 131

Fourchettes of gloves, =97=, 98

Fourragère, 241

Fowls, top-knotted, 303

Fox-hunters, red coat of, 235

Frenchman, dress of, 318

Frills, 227

Fringe of a shawl, origin of, 16

Fringes, Mr. Macalister on symbolism of, on dalmatics, 191

Frock coat, 148

Frontal of nun, =203=, 204

Fruitfulness, superstitious practices to ensure, 179, 180

Funerals, horse trappings still used at, 292 -- painted pasteboard figures burnt in China at, 274

Fur, 11 -- use of, in the army, 247

Fusiliers, Welsh, flash of, 133, =134=

Fylfot, 122; see Plate VII, Fig. F, facing page 129

Gagging, art of, not modern, 254

Gaiters, 70

Garlands, wearing of, signifies virginity, 180

Garment, new, put on over old, 148

Garments, dislike of divided, 359 -- flowing, give an elegant effect, 137, 357 -- -- -- dignity, 187, 357 -- long, of Noah's Ark figures, 268

Garter, 158

Garters as insignia, 71 -- golden, of Merveilleuses, 346 -- of girls, annual ceremony in Haute-Vienne, 71 -- ornamental, 71

Gatty, Sir Alfred Scott, on cockades, 153

Gauntlets worn by masons, 232

Gentleman of George III's time, 141, 143

George II's reign, coachman, coat of, 142, =142= -- -- on naval uniform, 251 -- III, black coats at Eton, mourning for, 169 -- -- gentleman's dress, 141, 143 -- III's reign, the pouter coat of, 141

German, dress of the, 318

Germs of disease disseminated by trailing skirts, 358

Giangurgolo, Calabrian, 1731, 257, =257=

Gimmal rings, 115

Girdle, 73 -- of judge, 217

Girl catching an object in her lap, 341

Girls, colour preferences of, 307 -- in factories, barefooted, 334 -- wearing their hair down, 166

Gladstone, Mr., abolished the serjeants-at-law, 217

Gloucestershire regiment, badges of, 245

Glove of Anne, Consort of James I, 98, =99= -- stitching carried on to the back of Elizabeth's coronation, =97=, 98 -- -- -- down the back of, =97=, 98

Gloves, 94, 195 -- early, without fingers, 94 -- embroidery carried on to the backs of, 98, =99= -- fourchettes of, =97=, 98 -- not worn by nuns, 204 -- points on, =96=, 98 -- with two thumbs in Iceland, 95

God, solar, of Egypt, 123

Gold dust put on the head, 131

Golfers, red coat of, 235

Gordon, Miss Helen, on painting used in the time of Queen Anne, 279

Gorget the badge of an officer on duty, 235

Gorilla, hair of, 6

Gown, 18 -- black, 185 -- Geneva, bands worn with, 44 -- of judge, 217 -- -- King's Counsel, 218 -- -- Master of Arts, 210 -- -- Oxford Undergraduates, 210

Gowns, black, legal mourning for Queen Mary II, 218 -- worn by scholars at Eton, 169

Greek betrothal rings, 115

Gremial, 202

Grenadier, caps of Scots Greys, 244

Greys, Scots, 245

Grenadier Guards, 248

Groom, =140= -- origin of belt, 139 -- -- -- dress, 139

Guards, drummers of, fleur-de-lys on braid of, 246 -- formation of, by Charles II, 246 -- Grenadier, 248 -- -- buttons on coats of, 29 -- Irish, 248 -- Life and Horse, survival of cord for priming powder horn, 108 -- Scots, 248 -- white jackets of, 243

Guignol, 255 -- French punch, 257 -- the name derived from Giangurgolo, 257

Guild liveries, 232

Guinea, New, women wear no clothes, 9

Habit, black of clergy, 308

Habits, monastic, 198

Hackle feathers of Northumberland Fusiliers, 244

Hair, clubbed, 134 -- curly, imitated, 130 -- dedication of, 128 -- dishevelling of, as mourning, 181 -- down, girls wearing their, 166 -- early man covered with, 6 -- great value attached to a profuse head of, 128 -- long, not necessarily effeminate, 127 -- not correlated with cold climate, 6 -- of women dressed differently from that of men, 128 -- powder, 131 -- -- coloured, 131 -- putting up of, by girls, 166 -- queued, 134 -- Roman modes of doing the, 132; Plate VII, facing page 129 -- use of others, 130

Halberds of Yeomen of the Guard, 225

Handkerchief in general use in Henry VIII's time, 195 -- used for wrapping up dinners, 195 -- -- -- -- -- presents, 195

Hanover, cockade of House of, 153

Harem, 13

Harlequin, 261, 267 -- coat of, worn by the Lord of Montbron, 283 -- modern dress of, 283, =284= -- origin of the character, 282 -- patched coat of, 283 -- shaven head of, 283 -- sooty face of, 283 -- wand of, 283

Harlequinade, 269, 282

Harlequinne, 285

Harrow, coats at, 169 -- swallow tails at, 170

Hat band, 52 -- -- origin of, 52 -- cocked, development of, 60, =60= -- Cranmer's, 214, =214= -- for hunting with lacing, 56, =56= -- how made from a disc of material 57, =57= -- of a bishop of the Stuart period, 214, =214= -- sailor, streamers of, 53, =53= -- tall, used in the Army, 248

Hats with the underside painted green, 271 -- women in church without, 206

Haweis, Mrs., dressing to suit her surroundings, 310

Hawaiian Islands, hut of, 49

Haybands forerunners of leg bandages, 67

Head, distortion of, 336

Head-dress of French lawyer, 158 -- -- -- Henry II's reign surviving in that of nuns, 201, =203= -- -- shawl as a, 61 -- -- Siamese, compared with a Votive Spire, 50, =51= -- shaven, of harlequin, 283 -- shaving, 127 -- strap, =203=

Heads, deforming of children's, by Chinook Indians, 335

Hearse cloths, 232

Heart-shaped amulets, 295, 296, =296=

Hector the horse extinct in Punch and Judy show, 267

Helmet of Black Prince, 87, =88= -- fireman's, 60, =60= -- plate, 158

Helmets, metal, 60

Henna used for staining fingers and toes by Egyptians, 271

Henry VIII's reign, handkerchief came into general use in, 195

Heppel, Mr. George, on Punch and Judy, 253 -- -- -- -- figures worked by wires, 255

Heraldry, Handbook of, by Cussan, 159

Heralds, tabards of, 83

Hereditary badges, 90

Hide, raw, shoe made of, 64, =64=

Highland corps, white jackets of, 243 -- dress, 162

Hindu ayahs, nose rings of, 111 -- women, painting of the feet scarlet by, 273 -- -- teeth blackened by, 273

Hodgson, Miss, uses a doll to show costume, 174

Hogarth's engravings of children, 162

Holland, dress of clergy in, 200

Holy Land, swaddling clothes persist in, 163, 333

Hood, 198 -- academical, 210 -- -- wearing of, by clergymen, 199, 212 -- combined with cape, 156, =156=, 157 -- enlargement of the peak, =156=, 157 -- of a Knight of the Garter, 229, =230= -- -- Bachelor of Arts, 212 -- -- nuns, 202, =203= -- -- the Order of the Thistle, 230 -- -- -- -- -- St. Patrick, 230 -- -- undergraduates, liripipe of, 211 -- peak of prolonged, to form liripipe, 157 -- tiny, on barrister's gown, 218, =219=

Horn for priming powder, survival of cords for suspending, 108

Horns of honour, 117

Horse amulets, 293, 294, =294=, 295, =296= -- clothing, 292 -- brass, crescent shaped, derived from boar's tusks, 294, =294= -- brasses, English, the counterpart of those shown on Trajan's column, 295 -- -- Dr. Plowright on the origin of some, 293 -- -- Miss Lina Eckenstein on, 293 -- -- heraldic, 295 -- identified as a corn spirit, 297 -- trappings, 292 -- -- still used at funerals, 292 -- white, of Hanover, 243

Horses, black, used at funerals, 303 -- circus, 303 -- grey, carry the kettledrums, 303 -- hats of, 300 -- killing of, at harvest time, 297 -- sun-bonnets, 300 -- white carry the kettledrums, 303

Hose, Florentine, 70, 286 -- tights, a survival of Florentine, 286 -- trunk, 269 -- -- of acrobat, 286 -- -- -- clown, 269 -- -- -- knights, 231

Household cavalry, bandsmen's livery caps, 146

Housemaid, apron of, 149 -- cap of, 149

Hounds, Dalmatian, as carriage dogs, 303

Howard of Effingham, hat of Lord, 248

Hump of Punch, back, 262, =263= -- -- -- front, origin of, 253

Hungarian, dress of the, 318 -- peasant's cap, 59, =59=

Huntsman, livery cap of, 146

Hussars, 59 -- cowry shells on trappings of horses of, 297, =298= -- dolman of, 81, 239 -- Eighth, wear sword-belts over their shoulders, 243 -- Eleventh, wear ivory-hilted swords, 244 -- Fifteenth, wear Austrian imperial lace, 244 -- lacing of, 146 -- prickers on shoulder belt of, 239, =239= -- sling jacket of, 81, 239 -- Third, extra drummer of, 244 -- uniform of, 272

Hut of Hawaiian Islands, 49

Iceland, glove with two thumbs, 95

India, lotus flowers on king's mantle, symbolical of, 222

Indian Army, puttees of, 66

Infant, bib of, 167 -- binder of, 163

Infants, deformities caused by bandaging, 164 -- powdered, 162 -- patched, 162

Inner Temple, badge of the porters of, 91

Ireland, pin-ring brooches in, 125

Irish Guards, 248

Ironside of Cromwell compared with a modern cavalryman, 237, =237=

Italian women age rapidly, 329

Jacket, Cardigan, 18 -- Eton, 169 -- smoking, suggests relaxation, 340

Jackets, rainproof, for cows, 300 -- white, of Guards, 243 -- -- -- Highland corps, 243

Japan, use of paint by women in, 275

Japanese actors paint the face, 273 -- children, painting the face of, 273 -- women, teeth blackened by, on marriage, 273

Java, earliest man in, 7. See Frontispiece

Jerome, St., on special dress for worship, 205

Jesson, Mr. W. H., a performer of Punch and Judy, 262

Jesus College, Cambridge, choristers' bands, 45, =45=

Jewesses shave their heads, 127

Jews, 205 -- rending their garments, 42 -- tattooing practised by, 277

Joan the old name of Judy, 266

Jockey, livery cap of, 147 -- parti-coloured dress of, 147, 313

Johanna, 301

Judge, girdle of, 217 -- gown of, 217 -- sentence cap of, 217 -- wig of, 132, 216, =216=

Judith, 267

Judy, dress of, =263= -- apron of, =263= -- mob cap of, 262, =263= -- once known as Joan, 266 -- origin of the name, 266

Kamarband worn by officers, 249

Kayans of Borneo, clothes of bark worn by, as mourning, 181

Kefiyeh fastened with a fillet of camel's hair, 53

Kersey, 351

Kettledrums, silver, 244

Kilburn Sisters, 201, 202

Kilt of sailors, 252 -- short, 76, =76=

Kimono brought from Japan, 344

King's Counsel, dress of, 218 -- -- gown of, 218 -- -- white lawn cuffs used as mourning by, 220 -- footmen, red coats of, 235

Kirkudbrightshire, pin-ring brooches of blacksmiths in, 125

Knee-breeches worn when speeches are made at Eton, 170

Knickerbocker suits, jersey, 165

Knickerbockers, 80 -- of blue-coat boys, 167 -- a recognized feature of children's costume, 163

Knights of the Garter, 229 -- -- -- -- chaperon on robes of, 158 -- -- St. Patrick, 229 -- -- the Thistle, 229

Knobs in the East take the place of buttons, 20

Kohl, 271

Label to difference arms, 86, =86=, 88

Labourers' method of buttoning trousers, 252

Lace, Austrian imperial, worn by Fifteenth Hussars, 244

Lacedæmonian girls, tunics of, slit down the sides, 346

Lacerna, 198

Laces, 100, =101=

Lacing inside a hat, =55= -- of Hussars, 146 -- tight, banned by Charles IV and Henry III, 326 -- -- in England, 326 -- -- made compulsory by Catherine de Medici, 326

Ladies, armorial bearings on dresses of, 84, =85= -- married with flowing tresses, 166 -- wear pyjamas, 288

Lady gardeners at Kew wear trousers, 358

Lake dwellings, pins found in Swiss, 105

Lamb, Persian, used for making spots on miniver, 222

Lambs that supply the wool for the pallium, 196 -- waterproof coats of, 300

Lancaster, Henry Duke of, crest and surcoat of, 86, =86=

Lancers, 39

Lap, boys and girls catching objects in their, 341

Lawn sleeves of a bishop, 199

Laws for the good of trade, 348

Lawyer, head-dress of French, 158

Leech, caricatures the busbies of the Guards, 247

Leg bandages, 66, =66=, =67= -- -- derived from haybands, 67 -- -- of pfiferari, 68

Leggings, survival of the wearing of skins, 70

Legion of Honour, buttons of, 158

Leicestershire Regiment, tiger-skin aprons of, 249

Leopards on Arms of England, 86

Life Guards, black plumes of farriers of, 242 -- -- -- tunics of farriers of, 242

Light Infantry, Duke of Cornwall's puggaree of, 243

Lindley, Lord, last surviving serjeant-at-law, 217

Linen, strip of, round head as mourning in Egypt, 182 -- the showing of, 44

Lion spotted when young, 94

Lions on Arms of England, 86

Liripipe, =156=, 157, =157=, 210, 230 -- of undergraduates' hoods, 211 -- peak of hood prolonged to form, 156, =156=

Lip plugs, 111

Liveries of the City Companies, 231

Livery cap, 146 -- -- of bandsmen of the Household Cavalry, 146 -- -- -- drum-major of the Foot Guards, 146 -- -- -- jockeys, 147 -- -- -- huntsmen, 146 -- Companies, chaperon, vestige on gowns of, 231 -- of page-boy, 145, =145= -- -- porters, 148

Locket, 122

Loom combs, 117, =118=

Lord Mayor's coachman, wig-bag of, 134, 143, =143= -- -- postilion, crest worn upon cap of, 92, =92=

Lotus flowers symbolical of India, on Edward VII's mantle, 222

Louis XVI, hair of, gave rise to wigs, 131

Louterell, Sir Geoffrey, figure showing armorial bearings, 84, =85=

Lovett, Mr. Edward, on dolls in swaddling clothes, 268 -- -- -- -- origin of pin-ring brooches, 125 -- -- -- -- patterns derived from tattooing, 278

Lyman, Dr., explanation of buttons being differently arranged on the clothes of the two sexes, 22

Macalister, Mr., on fashions, 189 -- -- -- symbolism of the fringes on dalmatics, 191 -- -- -- the pallium, 196 -- -- -- -- surplice, 185 -- -- -- there being no distinctive garments for the ministers, among early Christians, 190

Macphersons, tartan of the, 312

Magnin, M., on the origin of Punch's hump, 261

Mail, chain, vestige of, on shoulder of Imperial Yeoman, 233, =233= -- plate, 235

Malachite used for painting by prehistoric Egyptians, 271

Man cook, white clothes of, 320 -- Isle of, triskele in the coat-of-arms of, 119 -- once hairy, 7. Frontispiece -- skin of, originally reddish, 13 -- primitive, 5

Manche, 146

Maniple, 221 -- once a napkin, 194

Manning, Mrs., hung in a black satin dress, 353

Manservant, modern, 143

Mantle, imperial, 221 -- of Edward VII, lotus flowers on, 222 -- -- Queen Victoria, roses on, 222

Mantles of ladies, collars standing up, 48

Maoris, tattooing of, 277

Mare, the last uncut ears of corn, 297

Marken, women of, floral designs on the bodice, 278

Market woman, sun-bonnet of, 61

Marines, Royal, mourning of, 243

Marionettes, 255

Marriage by capture, 175

Marriott, Mr., on the colour of early vestments, 190

Martingale of horse, amulets on, 294

Mask, unwritten laws that rule the wearing of, 281

Masks of the 5th of November a reminder of primitive face-painting, 280 -- worn by savages, 280

Mason, Mr. Otis T., on pockets, 110

Masons, aprons of, 232 -- insignia of, 231

Master, clothing of, becomes that of servant, 5, 152

Maud, 20

Maundy Thursday, 226

Mayhew, Mr. Henry, on Punch and Judy, 265

Medical officers, volunteer, wear cocked hats, 247

Men, colour preferences of, 307

Merveilleuses, 345, =345=

Mess jacket of Somersetshire Light Infantry, 242

Meyer, Dr., on the padding of sleeves above the shoulder to prevent weapons from slipping off, 338

Mice, piebald, 302

Milk-women, apron of, 150 -- -- costume of, 110 -- -- with yokes, 110

Milton, bands of, 46

Mimes, Roman, 183, 282, 283

Mimi, 282

Miniver, 222 -- rows of black spots on, indicate rank, 223

Mitten, open work, 99

Mittens and tattooing, 99

Mitre, 221 -- strings of, 54, =54=

Mizpah rings, 116

Mob cap worn by Judy, 262, =263=

Modesty a habit, 12 -- different ideas of, in various regions, 12 -- ideas of, Arab women, 207

Molière introduces Punch into _Le Malade Imaginaire_, 261

Monk, General, 246

Monkeys, clothes of, 301

Monk, dress of, 201 -- scapular of, 201 -- tunic of, 201

Montbron, Lord of, harlequin's coat worn by, 283

Montaigne on the sufferings caused by the corps piqué, 325

Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, and painting, 279

Montem at Eton, 171

Moore, Sir John, black worm as mourning for, 242

Mortar-board, 47, 169, 212, =214=

Moseley, Professor, on face-painting in China, 273, 274, 275; see Plate X, fig. C facing p. 270 -- -- -- painting the body, 272 -- -- -- the use of paint by women in Japan, 275

Mosque-like turban, 50, =50=

Mourning bands of barristers, 219 -- black as, 181 -- black band on arm for, 182 -- -- worm for Sir John Moore as, 242 -- clothes of bark worn by Kayans of Borneo as, 181 -- cuffs worn by the legal profession as part of, 183 -- dishevelling of hair as, 181 -- for death of Nelson, 252 -- -- General Wolfe, black worm as, 242 -- of Royal Marines, 243 -- purple as, 182 -- sackcloth as, 181 -- strip of linen round head in Egypt as, 182 -- white as, 182 -- white lawn cuffs used by King's Counsel as, 220 -- yellow as, 182

Moustache, 129

Mules, cowry shells on trappings of, 297, =299=

Mutes at children's funerals, 182

Nail, horseshoe, as part of a pin-ring brooch, 125

Nakedness, effect of, destroyed by tattooing even in Europeans, 277

Napkin, 194, 195

Naval uniforms, 251

Navvies wear belts, 329

Neapolitan, the, as an actor, 254

Neck chains, 113 -- -- of Richard II's time, 113

Nelson, mourning for death of, 252

Neuville, M. Lemercier de, on Punch's stick, 260

Newcombe, Allan Poe, on hats and habitations, 49

Nicks in coat lapels, 41, =41=, =42=

Nightcap of man, 290, =290= -- -- woman, 289, =290=

Nightcaps, elaboration of, restricted in the reign of Mary, 290 -- of Tudors, 289 -- still worn, 289

Night-dresses worn by ladies in the street in Anne's reign, 290

Nightgown, the bands on a lady's, 288, =289=

Night rails, 290

Nightshirt cut like a day shirt, 288

Noah's Ark figures, long garments of, 268

Norman chin-band, 201, =203=

Normans closely shaved their beards, 129 -- combination garments of, 320 -- wore trousers, 79

Northumberland Fusiliers, hackle feathers of, 244 -- -- wear roses, 245

Norwegian, dress of the, 319

Nose rings of Hindu ayahs, 111

Novice, veil of, 202

Nuns, 201, 203 -- aprons of, 202 -- breast cloth of, 202, =203= -- cap of, 202, =203=, 204 -- collar of, 202 -- costume of, 198 -- cross of, 202 -- frontal of, =203=, 204 -- hood of, 202, =203= -- not allowed to wear gloves, 204 -- scapular of, 202 -- veil of, 202, =203= -- wear wedding-rings, 204

Nurse, hospital, uniform of, 150

Nurses, domestic, imitating hospital nurses' dress, 150

O'Connor, Dr. Bernard, on bloomers, 361 -- -- -- -- woman's dress for active exercises, 361

Officers, commanding, choice of uniform, 242, 243 -- non-commissioned, stripes on sleeves of, 114

Opal, supposed powers of the, 124

Opals, always fashionable, 123 -- and bad luck, 124

Openwork mittens, 99 -- of Roman shoe, 62, =63= -- stocking, 69, =69=

Ophal, 124

Orange blossom, 180

Orang-utan, hair of, 6

Oraria, distribution of, by Aurelian, 192

Orarium, 191, 195

Order of the Coif, 216

Origin of fashions difficult to trace, 354 -- -- mayoral chains, 113 -- -- the clock, 68

Ornament, love of, among simple races, 8

Ornamentation of modern boots, 62, =63= -- -- -- shoes, 62

Ornaments as currencies, 112 -- of Stone Age, 112 -- serve for identification, 10 -- shells as, 112 -- why they survive, 111 -- worn even if there are little clothes, 9; see Plate II, facing page 9

Orphrey, the apparel of the chasuble, 196

Ostrich feathers, 122

Oxford University, Chancellor of, hanging sleeve of, 210, =211= -- -- undergraduate's gown, 210

Overcoat, 149

Pads in hair dressing, 131

Padding, 338

Page-boy, buttons of, 144, =145= -- -- livery of, 145, =145=

Pageants, success of, a sign of the craving for colour, 306

Paint on face of clowns, 269 -- use of, by women in Japan, 275 -- -- -- -- -- -- China, 275 -- -- -- at a corroboree, 272 -- -- -- in war to terrify, 273

Painted pasteboard figures burnt at funerals in China, 274