Part 20

Ambassadors, cockade of Danish, 160 -- -- -- English, 160 -- -- -- Foreign, 160 -- -- -- French, 160

American, dress of the, 318

Amethyst, supposed powers of the, 124

Amice, 200, 221

Amulet, arrow-head, 296

Amulets buried with the head of ancient Egyptians, 122 -- crescent-shaped, 293 -- heart-shaped, 295, 296 -- worn by Egyptian children, 123

Andaman Islanders, painting the body among, 276

André, Messrs., & Co., on cockades, 153

Anglo-Saxon, bandaged stocking of, 67, =67=

Animal actors, clothes of, 301

Animals, colour of, in connection with ceremonials, 303 -- curious variations of, produced under domestication, 302 -- spotted when young, 94 -- mutilation of, 302

Anklets, 9

Anne, apron of Queen, 150 -- Consort of James I, glove of, 98, =99=

Antiquities, Museum of, Copenhagen, 178

Apparel of chasuble called an orphrey, 196 -- on albe, possibly remains of clavi, 193

Appendix, vermiform, 3

Apron, 149 -- of barge-woman, milk-woman, and hospital nurse, 150 -- -- bishop, a vestige of the cassock, 200 -- -- housemaid, 149 -- -- Judy, 263, =263= -- -- masons, 232 -- -- nuns, 202 -- -- Queen Anne, 150

Aprons, tiger skin, of Leicestershire Regiment, 249

Arab women, 122 -- -- ideas of modesty, 207

Arabs use folds of robes as pockets, 110

Archers, Scottish, coats of, 226

Aria, Mrs., on the ancestress of the straight-fronted specialité corset, 337 -- -- on the unwritten laws that rule the wearing of a mask, 281

Armlets conferred on soldiers, 114 -- need for cooling, in some climates, 114

Armorial bearings on ladies' dresses, 84, =85=

Armour, 83 -- a development of dress, 12 -- of chargers, 292

Arms, coat of, 83 -- of England, 86 -- -- schools and colleges, 90 -- -- Thomas à Becket, =198=

Arran murder case, 178

Arrow-head amulets, 296

Arrow-heads, flint, as pendants, 123

Arts, gown of master of, 210 -- hood of bachelor of, 212

Atella, celebrated for Italian farces, 254

Athletic clubs, parti-coloured dress of, 313

Aurelian, distribution of oraria by, 192

Austria, Emperor of, 244

Austrian, dress of the, 318

Axe for killing wounded horses, 242

Ayahs, nose-rings of, 111

Babylon, finger-rings in, 114

Baby's glove without fingers, 94, =95=

Bachelor of Arts, hood of, 212

Badge and crest, difference between, 90 -- broad arrow, 91 -- of Black Prince, 88 -- -- Edward III, 91 -- -- the porters of the Inner Temple, 91

Badges, hereditary, 90 -- signs derived from royal, 91 -- regimental, 243, 245 -- of Gloucestershire regiment, 245 -- -- private firemen, 91

Badges of the Yeomen of the Guard, 224, =224= -- -- Watermen, 91 -- worn by the Marquis of Abergavenny, 91

Bag-wig, vestige of the, 133, =134=, 143, =143=, 228, =229=

Baildon, Mr. Paley, on new garments put over old, 148 -- -- -- -- the coif, 216

Baldric, 106 -- modern use of, 106 -- ornamented with bells, 108, =108=

Ballrooms, bare necks in, 14

Band, black on arm as mourning, 182 -- chin, 202, =203= -- hat, 52

Bandaged stockings of Anglo-Saxons, 67

Bandages, leg, 66, =66=, =67=

Bandbox, 46, =47=

Bandoleer, on baldric, 108

Bands, 44, =45= -- of barristers, 44 -- -- blue-coat boys, 44, =45= -- -- choristers at Jesus College, Cambridge, 45, =45= -- -- Jan Steen, 46, =46= -- -- John Pym, 46, =46= -- -- Milton, 46 -- -- small boys, 47, =47= -- -- the legal profession, 219 -- -- Winchester scholars, 169 -- on a lady's nightgown, 288, =289= -- worn with a black Geneva gown, 44, 185

Bantams, booted, 303 -- frizzled, 303

Baptism, vestments used at, 164

Barbarians wore trousers, 77, =78=

Barge women, apron of, 150; Plate VIII facing page 150 -- -- costume of, 110 -- -- sun-bonnet of, 61; Plate VIII facing page 150

Barme-cloth (apron), 150

Barons of the Exchequer, robes of, 218

Barristers' bands, 44 -- gown, 218, =219= -- wigs, 132

Basquine, 325

Baton of drum-major, 241 -- -- Field-Marshal, 223

Beadle, dress of, 147, =264= -- in Punch and Judy, 147, 262, =264=

Beads as currencies, 113 -- blue popo, worth their weight in gold, 113 -- early used in England, 112 -- from Egypt, 113 -- of the prehistoric Egyptians, 112 -- still fashionable, 112

_Beagle_, H.M.S., voyage of, 11

Beard of Edward II, 130 -- -- -- III, 129

Beards, closely shaved by Normans, 129 -- -- -- in Edward IV's time, 130 -- cut by Romans, 129 -- parted or trimmed by Saxons, 129

Bedford, Duchess of, riding habit of, 251

Bedgown, woman executed in a, 290

Beefeaters, cap of, 168

Bells as ornaments, derived from flowers, 314

Belt of groom, =140= -- -- -- origin of, 139

Belts, Dr. Cantlie on the use of, 356 -- worn by navvies, 329

Bernard, on blowing the nose on the chasuble, 195

Bhurtpore, battle of, 244

Bib, 150 -- of infant, 167

Bibliography, 363-7

Bigg, Mr. Heather, on the erect position of man, 330, 331 -- -- -- -- -- rapid loss of beauty in native girls, 328 -- -- -- -- -- use of stays, 326, 327

Billet, sign of the Crooked, 146

Binder of infant, 163

Biretta, evolution of, 213

Bishop, hat of, 214, =214= -- method of buttoning trousers, 252 -- rochet, chimere, and lawn sleeves of, 199

Black as mourning, 181

Bloomer, Mrs., 81, 356 -- -- dress of, 361

Bloomers, Dr. Bernard O'Connor on, 361

Blouse, blue, of the butcher, 307, 320

Blue blouse of butcher, 307, 320 -- coat boys, 167 -- -- -- bands of, 44, =45= -- favours, 307

Boadicea, dress of, 312

Boar, wild, spotted when young, 94

Bohemians, the King of the, wore no ostrich feathers, 91

Body, clothes used to alter the shape of, 337

Boiler cleaners, combination garments of, 320

Bone inserted into prehistoric skulls, 336 -- pin, 105

Boots, jack, 235 -- of bridegrooms removed by brides in Russia, 177 -- ornamentation of modern, 62, =63= -- top, 65, =65= -- -- upper parts now immovable, 66, =66=

Borough Councillors, robes of, 138

Bouquets carried by coxswains on the Fourth of June at Eton, 171

Bows inside ladies' hats, 57, =58= -- of silk ribbon inside hat, 54, =55=

Boy catching an object in his lap, 341

Boys, blue-coat, 167 -- colour preferences of, 307 -- dressed as soldiers, 163 -- petticoats of, 165

Brace in which the straps are not united, 356

Bracelets, 9 -- need to be cooled in some climates, 114

Brandenburg, Albrect von, with two palls, 197

Brandon, John, brass to, 38

Brasses, 38, Plate IV, 86, =86=, 234, =234= -- chrysome, 164

Brats, 300

Breast cloth of nun, 202, =203= -- plate of horse, amulets on, 294

Breasts, bare, in Ancient Egypt, =74=, 75 -- -- in Korea, 75, =75= -- -- in the time of James I, 76

Breeches, knee, 79 -- of Lord Darnley, 286 -- origin of the word, 311 -- petticoat, of sailors, 252 -- plush, 140, =141= -- stuffed, 337 -- Venetian, of pantaloon, 284

Bridesmaids, origin of presents made to, by bridegroom, 175

Bristol, Red Maid School of, 168

Broad arrow badge, 91

Bronze Age chieftains, dress of, 18, =19= -- -- people wore deerskin cloaks retaining horns, 117 -- pins, 105

Brooch, 122 -- safety-pin like an Etruscan, 102, =103= -- the buckle, a, without hasp, 125

Brooches, pin ring, 125 -- to fasten tunic, 17, =17=

Buckle, 125

Bulgaria, shoe money in, 177

Burden, primitive method of carrying a, 106, =107=

Busbies, caricatures of, 247, 248

Busby, 238 -- development of, 59 -- of Rifle Brigade, 242 -- origin of the, Sir George Darwin on, 58, =59= -- red flap on, 59, =59=

Buskins, 195

Bust, padding used to improve the, 338

Butcher's blue blouse, 320

Butterman, white clothes of, 320

Button, 118 -- covered with crape, 243 -- Mr. P. W. Reynolds on the survival of a, 248

Buttonholes, exaggerated on uniforms, 40 -- knotched, 146 -- laced, 146 -- on the backs of coats, 27, =27=, 28, =28=

Buttons, 24, 248 -- antiquity of, 120 -- as chronicles, 25 -- done up differently by men and women, 21, =23= -- horizontal row of, on sleeve, 36, =36= -- meaningless, on ladies' dresses, 120 -- numerous, on sleeve of undervest, 38; Plate IV, facing page 38 -- of brass on Dutch skeleton dress, 145, =145= -- -- Legion of Honour, 158 -- -- man's coat on right side, 20, =20= -- -- page boys, 144, =145= -- -- woman's coat on left side, 20, =21= -- on coats of Grenadier Guards, 29 -- -- cuffs, 35, =35= -- -- overcoats of Commissionaires, 30 -- -- postilion's jackets, 38 -- -- sleeves of clergy, 36 -- -- the back of coats, 26, =26=, =27=, =28=, =29=, =31=, =32=, =33=, =34= -- -- the back of tramway driver's coats, 30, =31= -- problematical, 15

Buttons replaced by knobs in the East, 20 -- vertical row on sleeve, =37=

Calthrop, Mr., on survivals of the chaperon, 158 -- -- -- the costume of Harlequin, 283 -- -- -- -- evolution of the cockade, 156 -- -- -- -- origin of the cockade, 159

Camels, cowry shells on the trappings of, 297, =299=

Cameron Erracht tartan, 242 -- tartan, 242

Canaries, yellow, 303

Cane of drill sergeant, 241

Canes, be-ribboned, 124 -- tasselled, 125

Cannibalism, probable origin of, 337

Canterbury Cathedral, shield, helmet, and surcoat of Black Prince in, 87, =88=, =89=

Cantlie, Dr., on short jackets, 356 -- -- -- the effect of insufficient clothing, 355, =357= -- -- -- -- use of belts, 356

Cap, college, 47, 169, 212, =214= -- Hungarian, 238 -- judge's sentence, 217 -- line of Lancers, 241 -- livery, 146 -- of Beefeaters, 168 -- -- dignity, ecclesiastical, 213 -- -- housemaid, 149 -- -- Hungarian peasant, 59, =59= -- -- nuns, 201, =203=, 204 -- -- the Lancers, a Polish head-dress, 239 -- Scotch, streamers of, 53, =54= -- statute, 168, 348 -- Tudor flat, 214

Cape, combined with hood, =156=, 157

Caps not to be worn by married women, 350

Cards, playing, show Tudor dresses, 231

Carolines, haircombs of West, 118

Cases of brass for waiters' buttons, 144

Cassock, 200 -- of Benedictines, 198 -- once generally worn, 186

Casula, forerunner of the chasuble, 192

Cater cap, 212

Cattle, hornless, 303

Cavalryman, modern, compared with Cromwell's Ironsides, 237, =237=

Cave men, drawings of, 8, =9=, 10 -- -- painting of the body by, 270 -- -- wore ornaments but no clothing, 8

Ceremony, primitive dress worn on occasions of, 5, 135

Chaco of Highland Light Infantry, 241 -- -- Scottish Rifles, 241

Chain mail, 233, 234, =234=

Chains for the neck in Richard II's time, 113 -- of Mayors, origin of, 113

Chancellor of a University, robes of a, 210

Chapel keeper at Wellington Barracks, top hat of, 248

Chaperon, 152 -- development of, =156=, 157, =157= -- of Richard II's time, 157 -- survival of, 228 -- vestige on gowns of City Livery Companies, 231 -- -- -- mantles of knights, 158, =230=

Chaplet of flowers used after baptism, 164

Charles I regulates clerical costume, 185 -- II, formation of Guards by, 246

Chasuble, 193, =194= -- casula, the forerunner of, 192

Chauffeurs' cockades, 160

Checks, 311

Chemise, 288 -- gauze, of Merveilleuses, 346

Chevasse, Mr., on individuality shown by clothes, 316

Children carried on the left arm, 22 -- dressed like their parents, 162 -- sucking the left breast, 24

Chimere, 199

Chimpanzee, hair of, 6

China, painted pasteboard figures burnt at funerals in, 274 -- puppet-show in, 259 -- the use of paint by women in, 275

Chin band, 201, 202, =203=

Chinese women, stunted foot of, 335

Chinook Indians, deforming the heads of children, 335

Chiton, 187

Choker, 200

Choristers at Jesus College, Cambridge, bands of, 45, =45=

Chrism cloth, 164

Christians, dress of ancient, 187 -- early, wore the same costume at worship as at home, 189

Christ's Hospital, 167

Chrysalis, 163

Chrysolite as a detector of poison, 124

Chrysome, 164 -- brasses, 164

Chulos in bull fight, red rag of, 306

Churches, Gothic, compared with hennin-like head-dress, 50, =51=

Clans, tartans of Scotch, 312 -- with several tartans, 312

Claremont, Mr., on opals and bad luck, 124

Clark, Professor E. C., on college caps, 213

Clavi, 191

Clement, St., on special dress for worship, 205

Clergy, adoption of vestments by English High Church, 192 -- black habit of, 308 -- buttons on sleeves of, 36 -- condemnation of dress by, 344 -- criticized for gorgeous apparel, 345 -- in Holland, dresses of, 200 -- wear academical hood over surplice, 199, 212

Cloaks, deer skin, of Bronze Age people, retaining horns, 117

Clock, meaning a gusset, 68, =68= -- origin of, 68

Clocks of clowns, 269

Cloth, breast, 202, =203= -- chrism, 164 -- pied, 313 -- parti-coloured, 313

Clothes, adopted for æsthetic reasons, 14 -- -- -- reasons of coquetry, 14 -- adoption of, for ornamentation, 8 -- -- -- -- reasons of modesty, 8 -- -- -- -- warmth, 8 -- dispensed with on ceremonial occasions, 136 -- distortions caused by, 322 -- effect upon action, 341 -- -- of, upon the outsider, 315 -- everyday, worn at night, 287 -- first worn by women, 12 -- in their development subject to the same laws that act upon the bodies of animals, 362 -- made from the bark of trees, 11 -- mental effect of, 339 -- minimum of, worn at sports, 6 -- not necessarily worn in cold climates, 11 -- -- worn at night, 287 -- of animal actors, 301 -- -- dolls, 137 -- -- monkeys, 301 -- -- Punch, origin of, 257 -- represented among animals, 291 -- Sunday, 205 -- swaddling, 163 -- the principles of evolution applied to, 1 -- used to alter the shape of the body, 337 -- useful characters always retained, 15 -- why worn, 8 -- worn at executions, become unfashionable, 353 (See also under the headings of _Costume_ and _Dress_)

Clothing, not worn by cave men, 8 -- preferences of girls for different articles of, 340, 341

Clown, 283 -- clocks of, 269

Clowns, painting of, likened to that once in vogue in China and Japan, 276 -- paint of face of, 269

Clubbed hair, 134

Coachman, coat of, 142, =142= -- Lord Mayor's, wig-bag of, 143, =143= -- origin of dress, 139 -- red coat of royal, 235 -- wig of, 132, 142, =142=

Coastguard, revers of, buttoned back, =39=

Coat, blue in sixteenth century, 168 -- buff, 235 -- development of the modern, 15 -- evolved from the shawl, 16 -- lapels, nicks in, 41, =41=, =42= -- patched, of harlequin, 283 -- pouter, 141, =141= -- red, a best, 235 -- -- origin of, 249 -- -- survived for a long time in Cornwall, 235 -- skirts buttoned back for riding, =33= -- swallow-tail, evolution of, 33, =34=

Coats at Harrow, 169 -- -- Westminster, 169 -- of arms, 83 -- -- Scottish Archers, 226

Coats, waterproof of, lambs, 300

Cobbett, criticisms on Quakers, 119

Cock of a hat, 61

Cockade, 61, 152, =152= -- black, 153 -- bow of ribbon on, 156 -- evolution of, 153, =156=, =157= -- for mourning, 154, =154=, 159 -- jagged edges of, 158 -- material of, 154 -- of Chelsea pensioners, =155=, 156 -- -- Danish ambassadors, 160 -- -- French ambassadors, 160 -- -- of various colours, 158 -- regent, =155=, 156, 159 -- royal, 154, 155, =155=, 159 -- treble, =152=, 156

Cockades, not under the jurisdiction of Heralds' College or Lord Chamberlain, 153 -- of foreign ambassadors, 160 -- -- chauffeurs, 160 -- those entitled to use, 153, =159= -- worn by gentlemen, 152

Cocking, 200

Coffins, Bronze Age, 18

Coif of Serjeant-at-law, 216 -- Order of the, 215 -- vestige of, 215, =217=

Coin, custom of breaking, upon engagement, 115

Coldstream Regiment, motto of, 246

Collar, broad lace, at Eton, 169 -- silver worn by additional drummer, 244

Collars, high, keep the head at a wrong angle, 356 -- metal of Padaung women, =114=; Plate VI, facing page 114 -- of Court ushers and vergers, 218 -- -- ladies' mantles standing up, 48 -- -- nuns, 202 -- worn by pet animals, 298

_Colobium sindonis_, 221

Colonial, dress of the, 319

Colour, craving for, shown by the gorgeous dress of Masons, 308 -- -- -- -- -- green scarfs of the Foresters, 308 -- -- -- -- -- pageants, 306 -- of academical dress, 309

Colours, 192 -- gay uniforms come under the category of courtship, 250 -- heraldic, derived from flags, still worn, 308 -- house, 171 -- of ancient drawings due to caprice of artists, 131 -- -- Naval uniform, 251 -- -- regiments, 309

Columbine, ballet dress of, 285

Comb as an ornament, 117, =118=

Combs, hair, 118, =118= -- loom, the origin of the ornamental comb, 117, =118=

Combination garments of boiler cleaners, 320 -- -- -- Normans, 320

Coombe Hill School, Westerham, dress worn by girls at, 172, =172=

Commissionaires, buttons on overcoats of, 30

Companies, Livery, robes of, 138

Complexions, false, of Roman ladies, 278

Convicts' dress, 91

Cope, 197, 199 -- of fifteenth century, 212

Cornish, Mr. C. J., on animals' clothes, 300

Corps piqué, Montaigne and Ambrose Paré on the suffering caused by the, 325

Corroboree, paint used at a, 272

Corset, misspelling of the word, 323 -- of Greece, 328 -- -- Rome, 328

Corsets, crusade against, 325

Cosmetics used by Roman ladies, 278

Costermongers, dress of, 319 -- trousers of, show progress of wearer's courtship, 347

Costume, clerical, regulated by Charles I, 185 -- connected with religion, 184 -- ecclesiastical, similar to civil in early times, =188= -- of barge-women, 110 -- -- the clown, Elizabethan, 269, =270= -- -- dolls, 267 -- -- milk-women, 110 -- -- nuns and abbesses resembled that of widows, 198 -- -- servants', derived from that of masters, 139 -- indicating the profession of the wearer, 316

Costumes adopted in girls' schools, 171 -- of hospitals for pensioners, 170 -- ugliness of bloomers, 81, 360 (See also under the headings of _Clothes_ and _Dress_)

Coulton, Mr. G. C., on the evolution of the maniple from a pocket-handkerchief, 194

Courier bags carried on a baldric, 106, =107=

Court dress, mistakes made in, 227 -- ushers, collars of, 218

Coventry, Lady, death due to painting the face, 279

Cowboy's long hair, 127

Cows, clothing of, 300 -- rainproof jackets of, 300

Cradle of American Indian papoose, 164

Cranmer, hat of, =214=

Crescent as an amulet among the Romans, 293 -- made by joining two boars' tusks, 294 -- worn on a special strap by German horses, 295

Crest and badge, difference between, 90 -- -- surcoat of Henry Duke of Lancaster, 86, =86= -- on helmet, 83 -- -- signet ring, 85 -- worn upon cap of Lord Mayor's postilion, 92, =92=

Creel carried on a baldric, 106

Crinoline, 337 -- devised to hide the shape of a princess, 344 -- of the young women of Otaheite, 338

Croft School, Betley, dress worn by girls at, 173, =173=

Crombie, Mr. James, on superstitions connected with weddings, 176

Crook, shepherd's, 195

Crosier, 221

Cross of nuns, 202 -- older than Christianity, 122

Cross-belt of Rifle Brigade, 242

Crown, 158, 221 -- bridal, 180 -- Tudor, superseded that of St. Edward, 224, =224=

Crusaders, 344

Cuff, turned back, 35, =36=, =37=, 38

Cuffs, 35 -- of widow, 183 -- white lawn, used as mourning by King's Counsel, 220 -- worn by the legal profession as part of mourning, 183

Cuirass of Household troops, 233

Culloden, battle of, 249

Currencies carried on the person, 113 -- ornaments as, 112

Cussan's "Handbook of Heraldry," 159

Custom of breaking a coin upon engagement, 115

Dalmatic, 190, 195, 221 -- compared with a shirt, 288 -- of Bishop, fringes on, 190 -- -- deacon, fringes on left side only, 191 -- symbolism of fringes, 191

Damascus, damask takes its name from, 313

Damask takes its name from Damascus, 313

Dane, dress of the, 319

Darnley, Lord, breeches of, 286

Darwin, Charles, on the loss of hair by man, 7 -- -- theory of evolution, 2 -- Sir George, on buttons, 30 -- -- -- -- evolution in dress, 3 -- -- -- -- the origin of busbies, 58, =59= -- -- -- -- top boots, 65, =65= -- -- -- -- why plumes are on the left side, 58, =58=

D'Aubernoun, Sir John, brass of, showing chain-mail, 234

David, shield of, 293

Dawkins, Professor Boyd, on the origin of the hair comb, 117

Deacons, stoles of, 192

Deaths due to painting the face, 279

Decoys, dogs dressed as duck, 301

Deformities caused by bandaging infants, 164

Demeter, 297

Denmark, dress of Bronze Age chieftains, 18, =19=

Depression in a judge's wig, 215, =216=

Diamond, supposed powers of the, 124

Diamonds, always fashionable, 123

Diaper appeared in reign of Henry II, 313 -- derived from D'Ypres, 313

Dinners, handkerchief used for wrapping, 195

Diodorus on the plaid of, 312

Distortion of the head, 336

Divorce, Bedouin form of, 178

Djibah, =172=, 173

Doctor in the Punch and Judy show, 263, =264= -- of Divinity, scarf of, 192 -- round cap of, 213

Dogs, dress of, as duck decoys, 301 -- hairless, 303

Dolls, clothes of, 137 -- costume, 267 -- in swaddling clothes, Mr. Edward Lovett on, 268

Dolman of the Hussars, =81=, 239

Donkeys, cowry shells on trappings of, 297

Drawings of cave men, 8, =9=, 10

Dress, academical, 208 -- -- Druitt on, 210 -- bridal, 175 -- characteristic of trades, 320 -- children's, Dr. Alice Vickery on, 165 -- colour in academical, 309 -- condemnation of, by the clergy, =344= -- Court, 226 -- -- mistakes made in, 227 -- does not usually show rank, 319 -- Dutch skeleton, 145, =145= -- evening, black and white, 308 -- -- suggests correct behaviour, 340 -- Highland, 162 -- League, Rational, 354 -- monastic, 198 -- more primitive, worn on occasions of ceremony, 135 -- naval, supposed survivals in, 252 -- of acrobats, 286 -- -- ancient Christians, 187 -- -- animals, 291 -- -- beadles, 147, 262, =264= -- -- coachmen, origin of, 139 -- -- convicts, 91 -- -- costermongers, 319 -- -- footmen, origin of, 139 -- -- girls at Coombe Hill School, Westerham, 171, =172= -- -- -- -- the Croft School, Betley, 173, =173= -- -- grooms, origin of, 139 -- -- harlequins, 283 -- -- heads of churches in Scotland, 200 -- -- jockeys, coloured, 147 -- -- King's Counsel, 218 -- -- Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, 321 -- -- monks, 201 -- -- Mrs. Bloomer, 81, 361

Dress of Norwegian bride, 180 -- -- nuns, 201, =203= -- -- particular trades, 149 -- -- peasants, gay, 309 -- -- Punch and Judy, 137, 253 -- -- Romans, 187 -- -- servants, 139 -- -- the American, 318 -- -- -- Austrian, 318 -- -- -- Colonial, 319 -- -- -- Dane, 319 -- -- -- Frenchman, 318 -- -- -- German, 318 -- -- -- Hungarian, 318 -- -- -- Norwegian, 319 -- -- -- Spaniard, 318 -- -- St. Nicholas, 137 -- -- soldiers previous to the Restoration, 236 -- -- Yeomen of the Guard, 223, =225= -- once indicated rank, 319 -- origin of, 6 -- parti-coloured, came into fashion in Edward II's time, 313 -- profession often not indicated by, 315 -- rank indicated in certain professions by, 320 -- rational, 81, 361 -- reform, 354 -- simplification of Court, 226 -- special, for worship, 205 -- tax on elegant, 350 -- to be according to station, 350 -- ugliness of evening, 208 -- Union, Healthy and Artistic, 354 -- used in special occupations, 320

Dresses, bridal, often survivals, 180 -- special school, 168 -- with trains to be kept for ceremonial occasions, 358

Dressing-gowns, 138, 358

Drops for ears, 112

Druitt, Mr., on academical dress, 210 -- -- -- boys dressed in petticoats, 165 -- -- -- the coif, 216

Drummer, extra of Third Hussars, 244

Dutch settler's wife, Miss Alice Morse Earle on the dress of, 359 -- skeleton dress, 145, =145=, 272

Dyes for tartans obtained from native plants, 313

Eagles on coronation robe, 222

Ear drops, 112

Ears, perforated for rings, 112

Earle, Miss Alice Morse, on the costume of the wife of a Dutch settler, 359

Eckenstein, Miss Lina, on horse brasses, 293