Part 28

Before you can possibly become wearied by this rugged panorama, the mountains on the railroad side of the river, losing their foot-hold on the river’s margin, draw back, leaving a wide pleasant valley. The low ranges bend round it in picturesque lines; the French Broad, with majestic sweep, flows through it; the crystal water of Spring creek, liberated at last from its cradling wilderness, passes through bordering groves to empty into the larger stream. The train stops at a railway station. A cluster of small houses stand on one side of the depot, and a little farther down the track are the elegant residences of Major Rumbough and Mrs. Andrew Johnson. Across on the distant heights, can be seen white dwellings--mountain homes in strict sense; but nearer at hand in the center of the valley, almost wholly concealed by the trees which surround it, are visible the outlines of a hotel; it is Warm Springs, the largest watering resort in Western North Carolina.

The main building of three stories, with its side two-story brick wing, is 550 feet long. A new and large addition has been, within a few late years, built on in the rear. The structure presents an imposing front with its wide, high portico supported by thirteen white pillars. A green lawn, with graveled walks and driveways, and set with locust trees, lies before it; and beyond this, in view, flows the river, swift and deep, again, churned into rapids, and at either end swallowed by the mountains.

In the locust grove and near the banks of the French Broad and Spring creek, are the wonderful warm springs. Bath houses are erected over them. The temperature of the water is from 102° to 104° Fahrenheit. The baths are invigorating and contain remarkable curative properties, especially beneficial for rheumatic, gouty, and chronic invalids of all classes. The water, although highly impregnated with minerals, is tasteless. These springs were discovered in 1785, by a company of Tennessee militia, while in pursuit of a band of Cherokee warriors. As early as 1786 invalids came here to try the effect of the water. Now, in the height of the summer, as many as six hundred guests at one time crowd this fashionable resort.

Lately the Warm Springs property has passed into the hands of a company of men well fitted by capital and experience to increase the popularity of the place, both as a summer and winter pleasure resort and sanitarium. Mr. Gudger, the superintendent, was for a number of years in charge of the State Insane asylum, and is consequently well adapted to the business he has entered into. Great improvements are being made in the buildings, and every convenience added for the welfare of guests. This to the votary of pleasure: The next to the largest ball-room in the state is here.

The falls of Spring creek, not far distant up that stream, are cascades of marvelous beauty. A number of the surrounding mountain summits command magnificent prospects. Deer can be started in neighboring fastnesses and driven to the river. As a bridge spans the stream directly before the hotel, the picturesque spots on the opposite bank can be reached. The famous Paint Rock is six miles below. The spot is well worth visiting. It is an immense wall of granite arranged in horizontal layers projecting over each other in irregular order and towering in weird proportions above the road, which lies close at its base between it and the river. The rocks present dark red faces, and it is from the natural coloring that the name is taken. On some of the smooth-faced layers black-lettered names can be deciphered; some left by Federal soldiers who, during the war, swept around this bend and up the river.

Near here Paint creek comes dashing down between bold cliffs to empty into the French Broad. A toll-gate on its banks bars the way, and over-head looms Paint mountain, whose summit, bearing the Tennessee boundary line, is wound round by the road towards Greenville, the old home of Andrew Johnson.

From the railroad between Warm Springs and Wolf creek, in Tennessee, glimpses of some of the wildest scenery of the French Broad can be obtained. Cliffs three hundred feet or more in height lean dizzily over the river. The most noteworthy of these rocky ramparts are termed the Chimneys. They are lofty, piled-up, chimney-like masses of stone standing out before bare walls of the same rocky exterior. At the first bridge below the Springs, Nature has wrought a terrific picture of the sublime. The river runs white-capped and sparkling below; the wild tremendous fronts of rocky mountains, seared with ravines frowning with precipices and ragged with pines, close around. Bending in sharp curves, the railroad penetrates the picture, leaps the long iron bridge and disappears.

TABLE OF ALTITUDES.

SMOKY MOUNTAINS.

Mount Buckley 6,599 Clingman’s Dome 6,660 Mount Love 6,443 Mount Collins 6,188 Road Gap into Tenn. 5,271 Mt. Guyot (Bull-head Group) 6,636 Roan, High Knob 6,306 Beech Mountain 5,541 Elk Knob 5,574

BALSAM MOUNTAINS.

Soco Gap 4,341 Amos Plott (Junaluskas) 6,278 Lickstone 5,707 Deep Pigeon Gap 4,907 Great Divide 6,425 Old Bald 5,786 Devil’s Court-House 6,049 Shining Rock 5,988 Cold Mountain 6,063 Pisgah 5,757

BLACK MOUNTAINS.

Mitchell’s Peak 6,711 Potato Top 6,393 Yeates’ Knob 5,975 Mount Gibbs 6,591 Balsam Cone 6,671 Bowlen’s Pyramid 6,348

LINVILLE MOUNTAINS.

Short Off 3,105 Table Rock 3,918 Hawksbill 4,090

Hibriten (Brushy Mountains.) 2,242 King’s Mountain 1,650

BLUE RIDGE.

Fisher’s Peak, state line 3,570 Blowing Rock mountain 4,090 Blowing Gap 3,779 Grandfather 5,897 Hanging Rock 5,224 Humpback, Mt. Washington 4,288 High Pinnacle 5,701 Swannanoa Gap 2,657 Bald Mountain 3,834 Sugarloaf 3,973 Chimney Rock Hotel 1,059 Saluda Gap 2,300 Jones’ Gap 2,925 Cæsar’s Head 3,225 Rich Mountain 3,788 Great Hogback 4,792 Whiteside 4,907 Black Rock 4,364 Fodderstack 4,607 Chimney Top 4,563 Satoola 4,506 Rabun Gap 2,168

CRAGGY RANGE.

Big Craggy 6,090 Bull’s Head 5,935 Craggy Pinnacle 5,945

Tryon Mountain 3,237

SOUTH MOUNTAINS.

Propst’s Knob 3,022 Hickory Nut Mt. 3,306 Ben’s Knob 2,801

Pilot Mountain 2,435

NANTIHALA MOUNTAINS.

Rocky Bald 5,323 Wayah 5,494 Nantihala Gap 4,158 Picken’s Nose 4,926

VALLEY RIVER MOUNTAINS.

Medlock Bald 5,258 Tusquittah Mountain 5,314

VILLAGES.

Asheville 2,250 Hendersonville 2,167 Brevard (about) 2,150 Waynesville 2,756 Marshall 1,647 Burnsville 2,840 Bakersville (about) 2,550 Boone 3,242 Jefferson 2,940 Murphy 1,614 Valleytown 1,911 Franklin 2,141 Charleston 1,747 Quallatown 1,979 Webster 2,203 Warm Springs 1,326

COWEE MOUNTAINS.

Yellow Mountain 5,133 Cowee Old Bald 4,977 Rich Mountain 4,691

Cheowah Maximum 4,996

RIVERS.

Little Tennessee (Tennessee line) 1,114 Big Pigeon (Fine’s Creek) 2,241 Big Pigeon (Forks) 2,701 French Broad (Tennessee line) 1,264 Watauga (Tennessee line) 2,131 Broad river (Reedy Patch) 1,473 Mouth Little river 2,088 Mouth Valley river 1,514

W. N. C. R. R.

Salisbury 760 Morganton 1,140 Marion 1,425 Swannanoa Tunnel 2,510 Swannanoa Mouth 1,977 Richland Creek (Waynesville) 2,608 Balsam Gap 3,411 Scott’s Creek (mouth) 1,986 Nantihala River 1,682 Red Marble Gap 2,686

From Professor W. C. Kerr’s report of altitudes. The railroad altitudes were obtained from J. W. Wilson. Only those mountain and valley heights of particular interest are given.

AREA OF COUNTIES.

(From State Report.)

Square miles.

Alleghany 300 Ashe 450 Buncombe 620 Burke 400 Caldwell 450 Catawba 370 Cherokee 500 Clay 160 Cleaveland 420 Forsyth 340 Graham 250 Haywood 740 Henderson 360 Jackson 960 McDowell 440 Macon 650 Madison 450 Mitchell 240 Polk 300 Swain 420 Transylvania 330 Watauga 460 Yadkin 320 Yancey 400

POPULATION OF THE WESTERN COUNTIES, 1880.[A]

Total. Colored. County-seats.

Alleghany 5,486 519 Gap Civil Ashe 14,437 966 Jefferson 196 Buncombe 21,909 3,487 Asheville 2,116 Burke 12,809 2,721 Morganton 861 Caldwell 10,291 1,600 Lenoir 206 Catawba 14,946 2,477 Newton 583 Cherokee 8,182 386 Murphy 170 Clay 3,316 141 Hayesville 111 Cleaveland 16,571 2,871 Shelby 990 Graham 2,335 212 Robbinsville 47 Haywood 10,171 484 Waynesville 225 Henderson 10,281 1,388 Hendersonville 554 Jackson 7,343 752 Webster 107 McDowell 9,836 1,897 Marion 372 Macon 8,064 669 Franklin 207 Madison 12,810 459 Marshall 175 Mitchell 9,435 503 Bakersville 476 Polk 5,062 1,144 Columbus 71 Rutherford 15,198 3,288 Rutherfordton -- Surry 13,302 2,075 Dobson -- Swain 3,784 550 Charleston -- Transylvania 5,340 517 Brevard 223 Watauga 8,160 746 Boone 167 Wilkes 19,181 1,924 Wilkesboro 200 Yancey 7,694 325 Burnsville --

[A] United States Census Report

MONTHLY, SEASONAL, AND ANNUAL MEAN TEMPERATURES FOR A PERIOD OF YEARS AT SEVEN STATIONS, AND THEIR AVERAGE FOR THE WESTERN DIVISION.

+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----+------ | J| F| M| A| M| J| J| A| S| O| N| D| S| S| A| W| Y | O | a| e| a| p| a| u| u| u| e| c| o| e| p| u| u| i| e | N b | n| b| r| r| y| n| l| g| p| t| v| c| r| m| t| n| a | o s | u| r| c| i| | e| y| u| t| o| e| e| i| m| u| t| r | . e | a| u| h| l| | | | s| e| b| m| m| n| e| m| e| | r | r| a| | | | | | t| m| e| b| b| g| r| n| r| | Y v Name of | y| r| | | | | | | b| r| e| e| | | | | | e a Station. | | y| | | | | | | e| | r| r| | | | | | a t | | | | | | | | | r| | | | | | | | | r i | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | s o | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | n | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | s | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | . | °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| ° | ------------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----+------ Asheville |37|39|45|52|63|69|74|71|66|53|43|37|53|72|54|38|54.3| 6½ Bakersville |34|37|38|54|61|66|72|74|65|50|43|36|51|71|52|36|52.5| 1 Boone |33|34|36|49|57|65|69|70|62|47|34|30|47|68|48|32|48.7| 2 Franklin |38|42|45|54|63|70|70|70|65|52|42|41|54|70|53|40|54.4| 2 Lenoir |36|40|45|56|66|73|76|73|67|55|43|37|55|74|55|38|55.5| 3 Murphy |38|42|45|56|65|71|74|72|66|53|41|38|56|72|53|39|55.2| 2½ Highlands |29|33|46|52|58|64|71|69|61|49|48|29|52|68|53|30|50.7| 1 Western | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Division |36|39|41|53|62|69|71|71|64|51|41|36|52|70|52|37|53.1| ------------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----+------

AVERAGE MONTHLY, SEASONAL AND ANNUAL MAXIMA, MINIMA AND RANGE OF TEMPERATURE FOR A PERIOD OF YEARS AT FOUR STATIONS AND FOR THE WESTERN DIVISION.

===========+======+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+===== | | J| F| M| A| M| J| J| A| S| O| N| D| S| S| A| W| Y| N o | | a| e| a| p| a| u| u| u| e| c| o| e| p| u| u| i| e| o b | | n| b| r| r| y| n| l| g| p| t| v| c| r| m| t| n| a| . s | | u| r| c| i| | e| y| u| t| o| e| e| i| m| u| t| r| e | | a| u| h| l| | | | s| e| b| m| m| n| e| m| e| | y r | | r| a| | | | | | t| m| e| b| b| g| r| n| r| | e v Name of | | y| r| | | | | | | b| r| e| e| | | | | | a a Station. | | | y| | | | | | | e| | r| r| | | | | | r t | | | | | | | | | | r| | | | | | | | | s i | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | o | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | n | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | s | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | . | | °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| -----------+------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----- {|Maxima|63|65|71|80|82|83|86|85|81|75|68|63|82|86|81|65|86| Asheville {|Minima|10|10|12|30|42|49|61|57|45|29|17| 7|12|49|17| 7| 7|6½ {|Range |53|55|59|50|40|34|25|28|36|46|51|56|70|37|64|58|79| +------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----- {|Maxima|57|58|64|73|75|81|84|82|79|74|55|51|75|82|79|58|82| Boone {|Minima| 4| 6|11|26|38|50|57|53|40|32|30|22|11|50|30| 4| 4| 2 {|Range |53|52|53|47|37|31|27|29|39|42|25|29|64|32|49|54|78| +------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----- {|Maxima|62|66|71|82|85|88|91|87|85|82|67|63|85|91|85|66|91| Lenoir {|Minima|14|15|14|36|47|58|66|52|50|29|18| 9|36|50|18| 9| 9| 3 {|Range |48|51|57|46|38|30|25|35|35|53|49|54|49|41|67|57|82| +------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----- {|Maxima|64|67|73|81|88|88|89|89|84|78|65|74|88|89|86|74|89| Murphy {|Minima| 9|14|15|35|47|59|64|57|44|24|11| 6|15|57|11| 6| 6| 3 {|Range |55|53|58|46|50|29|25|32|42|54|54|68|73|32|75|68|83| +------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----- Western {|Maxima|61|63|69|78|82|84|86|87|82|76|63|63|82|87|82|63|87| Division {|Minima| 8|10|13|30|42|53|61|56|43|28|19|12|13|53|19| 8| 8| {|Range |53|53|56|48|43|31|25|31|39|48|44|51|69|34|63|55|79| ==================+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+=====

COMPARATIVE TABLE OF MEAN TEMPERATURES.

=======================+=========+=========+=========+==========+======== | Year. | Spring. | Summer. | Autumn. | Winter. -----------------------+---------+---------+---------+----------+-------- | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° Western Division | 53 | 52 | 70 | 52 | 37 Asheville | 54 | 53 | 72 | 54 | 38 Bakersville | 52 | 51 | 71 | 52 | 36 Paris, France | 51 | 51 | 65 | 52 | 38 Dijon, France | 53 | 53 | 70 | 53 | 35 Venice, Italy | 55 | 55 | 73 | 56 | 38 Boone, North Carolina | 49 | 47 | 68 | 48 | 32 Munich, Germany | 48 | 48 | 64 | 49 | 32 =======================+=========+=========+=========+==========+========

The tables of temperature given are taken from Dr. Kerr’s State Geological report.

* * * * *

SWANNANOA HOTEL,

ASHEVILLE, N. C.

AVERAGE TEMPERATURE.

+----+----+----+-----+----+----+----+----+------+----+----+-----+ |Jan.|Feb.|Mch.|April|May |June|July|Aug.|Sept. |Oct.|Nov.|Dec. | |38.1|39.8|44.7|53.9 |61.5|69.1|71.9|70.7|63.8 |52.9|43.8|37.3 | +----+----+----+-----+----+----+----+----+------+----+----+-----+

Location 35 deg. 36 min. N. lat. 2,250 feet above the sea.

The recent additions and improvements to the “Swannanoa Hotel” have made it complete in all its appointments, and the owners and proprietors, Rawls & Carter, are determined that it shall always maintain its rank as the leading and largest hotel in Asheville. The Swannanoa is now kept open the year round. Northern visitors to Asheville for the winter and spring months, as well as for the summer, who stop at the Swannanoa, have their wants carefully studied and attended to. The rooms and halls are large and well ventilated for the summer, and yet arranged to be well heated in the winter. Superb views of surrounding mountains from the rooms and porches. Mountain, Well, and Cistern Water, Hot and Cold Baths, Electric Annunciator, Laundry, Barber Shop, Billiard Rooms, and Telegraph Office across the street are some of the comforts of this popular resort. In the summer, a band of music is engaged for the entertainment of the guests. Headquarters also for capitalists seeking investments, and other business men visiting Asheville. For cut of hotel see page 211.

For further particulars, apply to the owners and proprietors.

RAWLS & CARTER.

* * * * *

EDWARD J. ASTON,

REAL ESTATE AND INSURANCE AGENT,

_Asheville, North Carolina_.

+-----------+----------------------+------------------+ |GRAIN, { ADDRESS } MINES. | |STOCK AND { WALTER B. GWYN, } MILL PROPERTY, | |TOBACCO { _LAND AGENT_, } TIMBER | |FARMS, { ASHEVILLE, } LANDS | | { North Carolina. } | +-----------+----------------------+------------------+

MARTIN & CHILD,

_REAL ESTATE AGENTS_,

ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA.

For the sale of farming, grazing and timber lands, mines, mill property, city property, &c.

_Strict attention given to titles._

All properties placed with this agency for sale fully advertised free of cost in this country and in Europe. Parties wishing to buy or rent property of above description, write for descriptive circular and price list.

* * * * *

FRED. C. FISHER,

ATTORNEY-AT-LAW,

WAYNESVILLE, HAYWOOD COUNTY, NORTH CAROLINA.

* * * * *

For fine Stereoscopic Views of

“THE LAND OF THE SKY”

OR

THE BEAUTIES OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA, EAST TENNESSEE AND NORTHEAST GEORGIA SCENERY,

SEND TO

NAT. W. TAYLOR,

Photographic Artist and Publisher of Steroscopic Views.

One dozen mailed to any address for $1.50, post paid.

Send for Catalogue.

SILVER SPRINGS HOTEL.

J. L. HENRY, ESQ., Proprietor.

(ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE FRENCH BROAD, NEAR THE ASHEVILLE DEPOT.)

This Hotel possesses all the conveniences and advantages of a suburban location, and complete appointments.

The verandas afford pleasing views in every direction. Within the large lawn are several mineral springs--Iron, Sulphur, and Magnesia. See illustration on page.

ARDEN PARK HOTEL.

10 miles from Asheville, 12 miles from Hendersonville.

Supplies all the attractions and conveniences of

A RURAL HOME,

Reached by daily stages from both Asheville and Hendersonville. For particulars address

ARDEN PARK HOTEL, ARDEN, NORTH CAROLINA.

FLEMING HOUSE,

JOHN T. PATTERSON, MARION, PROPRIETOR. MCDOWELL, CO., N. C.

The largest and best hotel in McDowell county arranged for the accommodation of summer boarders. Good livery attached. Sample rooms and other conveniences for business men.

* * * * *

SPARKLING CATAWBA SPRINGS,

CATAWBA COUNTY, N. C.

THIS FAVORITE WATERING-PLACE WILL BE

OPEN MAY FIRST, TO SELECT GUESTS.

Situated 55 miles northwest of Charlotte, 60 miles west of Salisbury, and 6 miles from Hickory, on the Western N. C. Railroad, in the shade of the Blue Ridge. The location has special advantages, being surrounded by a beautiful and extensive woodlawn of native growth and carpeted with green. The bracing mountain atmosphere, with the health-restoring properties of their waters, render these Springs a most desirable resort for INVALIDS and PLEASURE SEEKERS.

The Mineral Waters embrace

BLUE AND WHITE SULPHUR AND CHALYBEATE,

and from the known benefit derived by well attested cures in their use as an alterative and tonic influence over the lymphatic and secretive glands, they are unsurpassed, and never fail to increase the appetite, the digestion and assimilation, thereby imparting tone and health to the person.

_BY THE USE OF THESE MINERAL WATERS_,