Part 16

From the first Falls to the second there were large Levels along Shore, the Mountains at a considerable Distance within Land, especially those on the North Side. The Mountains and Shores thick cloathed with Pine, Spruce, Birch, and Alder, much larger and of better Growth than those Trees nearer the Sea Coast; some Pines measured twenty-five Inches in Diameter. In a Pond, on the North Shore, saw two Beaver Houses, and there were Plenty of Beaver Marks, as Dams, Trees barked and felled by them. The Water was fresh between the first and second Falls. Poles of _Indian_ Tents in many Places along Shore, Lodgments only for single Families, tied together with Strips of Deer Skin, and no Encampments after the _Eskemaux_ Manner, shewed that a different _Indians_ from the _Eskemaux_ resorted into this Part. The whole Country had a pleasant Appearance; but as they came near to the upper Falls, the Verdure of the Woods, barren Points of Rocks that exalted themselves, terminating the View, the Disposition of the Woods which had all the Regularity of Art, joined to the Freedom of Nature, the Gloom of the Evening, the slow steady Course of the Water, and the Echoes of the rumbling Fall, afforded such a Scene as affected even those that rowed; and they said, it was the pleasantest Place they had ever seen. On a level Point, beautifully green, situated at a small Distance from an Opening in the Woods, and in full View of and Hearing of the Falls, there were the Poles of an _Indian_ Tent, which, from the Ashes scarce cold, a Breast-bone of a wild Goose, with some little Meat on it that had been broiled, Pieces of Birch Bark left, seemed to have been not long deserted, and the Situation was such as expressed the late Inhabitants to have the softest Sensations. In coming up the Inlet they had found where there had been a small Fire made, as supposed, to dress Victuals, but put out or covered with Turf, a usual Practice amongst Southern _Indians_ to conceal the Smoke, when they suppose the Enemy is near. The Boats were securely harboured, a Tent erected, with a good Fire before it, and the People rested securely all Night.

The next Day, _August_ the 28th, two Persons were detached to a Summit, in Appearance about twelve Miles off, others went and hung Strings of Beads, Combs, Knives, and other Peltry, on the Trees, some at a Mile, and others at a further Distance, from where they kept their Camp all Day, to invite the _Indians_ to a Converse with them; but no _Indians_ were seen, nor any Thing meddled with. Those who had walked to take the View from the Summit, saw the Water above the Falls extend a great Distance into the Country, but not the Termination of it, passing through Meadow Lands of large Dimensions, and by the Foot of small rising Land, they saw a large high Ridge of blue Mountains at a great Distance, running North and South, which was supposed to be the Bounds of the new discovered Sea in _Hudson_'s Bay: Saw several other Ridges of Land, but seemingly more level than those to Seaward; passed over in travelling several Spots of excellent Soil, the Timber of good Size and Growth. There was a great Plenty of Grass and Herbage; walked a great Way in an _Indian_ Path, and saw several marked Trees, as is practised amongst the Southern _Indians_. They returned in the Evening, much fatigued with the Heat of the Sun, and swelled with the Bites of Musquetoes, and a small black Fly, like those in _England_ called a Midge. Those that staid at the Encampment were also much plagued with these Insects.

The Latitude of the upper Falls was 54 Deg. 48 Min. near the imaginary Line that bounded the _English_ and _French_ Limits in these Parts; and it being supposed that the two Inlets, seen from the Height above the Harbour where they first anchored, would terminate in the _French_ Limits; they therefore had declined making any Search there, and proceeded to search the Inlet to Northward.

The next Morning they set out to return to the Schooner, with a Design to search the other Inlet to Northward, seen from the Mountain at the Back of the first Harbour, but not seen since by Reason of a high Ridge of Mountains, as it was supposed, that covered it. In the Night there had been a sharp Frost, and early in the Morning a thick Fog. About Ten in the Morning they were returned to the Schooner. Several of the People, contrary to the written Instructions which were left, had rambled from the Vessel, got on the Heights, rolled down the _Indian_ Marks, which are Stones that they put up one on another on the Knolls and Summits of Hills, to direct them in their journeying; a Proceeding which was highly dissatisfactory to the Commander, considering the Disposition which it was found the Natives were in, and whom, with the greatest Industry, they could not get a Sight of. The People had shot some few Fowl, which were plentier in this Inlet than any where that they had seen, but very shy and wild. They sailed that Afternoon to the Harbour which they were at when they first entered this Inlet.

_August_ the 29th they sailed out of this Inlet to go to the Northward, keeping within a Ledge of Islands, as they might pass no Part of the Coast unsearched. Met with some Difficulties amongst the Shoals and Rocks; but about Four in the Afternoon were clear of all, and plyed to Windward to enter the third or more Northern Inlet, which they had now open. Saw at the Head of a pretty deep Cove, on the South Side in that Inlet, a strong Smoke arise, and that immediately answered by a lesser Smoke on the Northern Side of the Inlet. The Smoke on the Northern Side the Inlet continued towering and freshening; on seeing which they immediately steered for the Cove, supposing the Smoke to be made by the Natives as a Signal for Trade; but were delayed entering by the Tide of Ebb. At Sunset were surprised with a Squall of Wind, which came on in a Moment, and the Schooner in extreme Danger of being ashore on the Rocks. A hard Gale succeeded, but they fortunately attained a Harbour, which had been before discovered by the Boat, and rode secure.

The 31st of _August_, the Weather being moderate, two Persons went over the Heights to the Head of the Cove, in Pursuit of the Natives; and three Persons went in a Boat to the Head of the Cove, with some trading Goods, and to pass the two who walked, over the Water if it ran up into the Country, and the Natives should be on the opposite Shore; but after rowing up about two Leagues they found a Termination of the Water, landed and ascended the Heights, where they found a very large Plain, without Ponds, and a fine Soil, which they passed over and descended into a Valley, thick Groves, good Grass, and large Ponds. Here they met with a Bear; which one of the People firing too precipitately missed. Several Bears had been seen before, some Foxes, many Tracts of Wolves, both on the Shores and Inland, and in one Place Otter Paths.

Three of the People were sent to return with the Boat aboard, and two set out to go up a Mountain which promised a good Sight of the Country, and seemed possible that they might attain to the Summit of it, and return to the Schooner that Night; but were deceived by the Height of the Mountain as to the Distance they were from it. In the Ascent they found great Declivities and Hollows in the Sides of the Mountain, the Rocks rent in a most surprising Manner, having Rents or Fissures in them from thirty to seventy Feet in Depth; some tremendous to look down, and not above two or three Feet in Breadth. The Dogs that were with them would not, after looking down, jump over them, but howled and took a Sweep round. In the Levels and Hollows on the Side there lay great Heaps of fallen Rock. Some Stones or solid Pieces of ten or fifteen Tons Weight, besides innumerable lesser Pieces. And found a Patch of Snow in one of the Hollows, about forty Feet in Breadth, and fourteen Feet in perpendicular Height, frozen solid, and seemed of the same Consistence with the Islands of Ice. The Persons, though constantly labouring, did not attain to the Top of the Mountain until about Half an Hour before Sunset, where they found a thin Air, and a fresh sharp cold Wind; though below, and in their Ascent, they had experienced pleasant warm Weather, and little Wind. From the Mountain they perceived a Smoke, about ten Miles off more inland, the usual Practice of the _Indians_ in the Evenings, when they form their Camps, to make a Fire to dress their Provisions, and to be by all Night; and it was then suspected that they were flying more inland, and that the Smokes seen the Night before were Signals from one Party to another to retire on seeing the Schooner, supposing us Enemies. It was too late that Night to return to the Head of the Cove, therefore encamped that Night on the Side of the Mountain in the Woods, near to a level Spot without the least Unevenness of above six Hundred Feet in Breadth, and three Hundred over, exactly resembling a Pavement without any Fissure or Opening in it. The next Day got to the Head of the Cove, near twelve Miles from the Mountain; on a Signal made the Boat fetched them aboard, where the People expressed in their Countenances a universal Joy at seeing their Commander safe returned, which was a great Satisfaction to him, as it was an Instance more sincerely expressed than by formal Words addressed to him, that they looked on their Security to depend on his Preservation. The Wind was contrary to their getting out of the Harbour that Afternoon; but the Boats were employed in seeking the best Channel for the Schooner to go out at.

The Morning of _September_ the 2d, the Wind proved favourable, and that Evening they got a good Way up the third Inlet. When they were some Way up the Inlet, they discovered a Smoke upon an Island at the Entrance of the Inlet, and, when at Anchor, a Smoke also on the North Shore. Therefore by Day-light, _September_ the 3d, the Time when Smokes are most discernable and looked out for by the _Indians_, a Person was sent to fire the Brush on an Eminence ashore, to answer that Smoke seen on the North Shore the Night before. Then the Schooner proceeded up the Inlet, and by Ten o'Clock was come to the Extremity of it, which terminated in a Bay of very deep Water, surrounded by very steep Mountains, with Groves of Trees on them; but they found a good Anchorage in a Cove, and an excellent Harbour. The Heights being ascended, it was perceived there was a narrow Streight out of this Inlet, which communicated with Ponds. And that there was a fourth Inlet to Northward, and which extended further to Westward than the Inlet which the Vessel was now in, and about four Miles off, beyond the Hills there appeared a towering Smoke, upon the Sight of which the Persons who went to take the View returned aboard to get some Provisions, and a Parcel of trading Goods, and set out again with an Intention to seek the Natives, and spend the Night amongst them. The Boat put them ashore where it was thought most convenient and nearest Place to the Smoke, but it proved otherwise; for after travelling about three Miles they fell in with a Chain of Ponds, which they were forced to go round. Hot sultry Weather, the Woods thick, without the least Breath of Wind, infinite Number of Musquetoes and Midges. But by being thus to go round the Ponds, had the Satisfaction of seeing several Beavers Dams made to keep out the Tide Waters. They saw a Continuance of the Smoke, and shaped a Course for it; but when on the Heights perceived that the Smoke was on an Island about two Miles off the Shore in the fourth Inlet, therefore returned to the Vessel that Night.

The 4th of _September_, in the Morning, they towed out of the Harbour they were in, the Wind soon after sprung up, and by Night they go out of the Inlet, and anchored amongst some Islands, just at the Entrance of the fourth Inlet.

The next Morning, _September_ the 5th, entered the fourth Inlet; but being becalmed a small Time catched above fifty Cod, much such as they had before taken. By Twelve o'Clock were abreast of the Island where they had seen the Smoke on the 3d, and which was four Leagues from the Entrance: Could perceive no Natives, but several Fires, and that there had been a great burning of the Brush; soon after saw a Snow lying at an Anchor, which hoisted _English_ Colours, and fired a Gun. They hoisted the Colours aboard the Schooner, fired a Swivel, and bore away for the Snow. The Wind was fresh, and, as the Schooner was entering the Harbour, two People came running over the Rocks, hailed, but it could not be well understood what they said; but it was a friendly Precaution as to some Rocks which lay off there. The Snow's People then took to their Boat, and made a Trip to view the Schooner as she was coming to an Anchor, and then returned aboard. A Whaleboat was hoisted out, and a Person sent in it to go aboard the Snow, and know where she was from, and to let the Captain know they would be glad to see him aboard the Schooner.

The Person sent, and Capt. _Elijah Goff_ the Commander of the Snow, returned aboard in a short Time; and the Particulars of what the Captain related were, That the Snow was fitted out by Mr. _Nesbit_, a Merchant in _London_: That he, the present Captain, had been the Year before Mate of the same Vessel on this Coast: That she was then fitted out by _Bell, Nesbit_ and Company; the intended Voyage kept a great Secret. They had, the Year before as a Captain, a _Dane_ who had used the _Greenland_ Trade, and could talk the _Eskemaux_ Language. That the Snow had been at _Newfoundland_, and afterwards came on the _Labrador_ Coast; but being Strangers to the Coast, and the Captain very obstinate, the Vessel was several Times in Danger, which raised a Mutiny amongst the People, who had formed a Resolution of seizing the Ship, and bearing away for _Newfoundland_; which Mutiny was appeased, and the People consented to go to the _Labrador_, where they harboured _July_ the 20th, in the same Harbour which the Schooner first entered this Year. They brought with them four of the _Unitas Fratrum_, or _Moravian_ Brethren, who were to remain during the Winter, to attain an Acquaintance with the Natives, and lay a Foundation of Trade: That the House, the Ruins of which the Discoverer saw, was built for the Residence of these Brethren; and, being compleated by the Beginning of _September_, the Snow left them in Possession of it, and set out to make Discoveries, and pursue a Trade to Northward: That they had some Trade in _Nesbit_'s Harbour, the Name they had given to the Harbour where the House was, and also on the Coast before they arrived at the Harbour: That when they went to Northward; in about Lat. 55° 40´ off the Islands, amongst which the Schooner had harboured the preceding Night, some _Eskemaux_ came aboard, and told the _Dane_ Captain there were some trading Boats come from the Northward, with Plenty of Trade, and advised the Captain to come where they were. The Captain asked, Why they would not come along Side? The _Eskemaux_ said, It was dangerous on Account of the Surf. The Captain and six others went in the Ship's Boat, with a Quantity of Goods to trade, but had no Fire Arms with them, though advised to take them; but the Captain said, No, they were very honest Fellows. Captain _Goff_ saw the Boat go round an Island, upon which there was a Number of Natives; but the Island hindered him from having any further Sight of the Boat. After the Boat had been gone about an Hour, he saw one or two of the _Eskemaux_ with his Glass peep over the Rocks; but never after saw any more of the Boat, the Snow's People, or the _Eskemaux_. That the Snow lay at a League Distance from the Island; he had no other Boat, one being left with the _Moravian_ Brethren. Capt. _Goff_ waited three Days, and then returned with the Snow to the Harbour where the House was. The Snow being short of Hands, he took the _Moravian_ Brethren aboard, leaving a Quantity of Provisions sufficient to subsist the unhappy People who were missing should they come there, until his Return. They put the Key of the House and a Letter in a Hole of a Tree; but on his Return this Year found the House in Ruins, the Casks and Hogsheads broke to Pieces, and the Key and Letter gone. That what was sowed there was by Way of Experiment.

Capt. _Goff_ judged that the _Eskemaux_ traded with the _French_, as their Fishgiggs, Knives, and Boats, were _French_; and the _Eskemaux_ told them there was a Settlement of twenty _Europeans_ to Southward, which they supposed to be somewhere to Southward of Lat. 55, the Latitude of the Cape they had named Cape _Harrison_, which is the Southermost Cape that forms the Bay in which is _Nesbit_'s Harbour, and the high Saddleback Land within, which is first seen off at Sea they named _St. John_'s. He said that one of the _Eskemaux_ offered a Quantity of Whalebone for a Cutlass, which they are very fond of; the _Danish_ Captain insisted on having more, the _Eskemaux_ answered, If he would not take it that Capt. _Saleroo_ would; alluding, as supposed, to the Captain or Factor at the _French_ Settlement. The Boats the _Eskemaux_ had were _French_: They spoke many _French_ Words. And the Women worked the Boats, turned them to Windward, and were very expert in the Management of them.

The Account given by the Master who went in the Schooner's Boat to fish for Cod (Capt. _Goff_ not having yet got any) to the People in the Boat was, That Mr. _Nesbit_ was only, in this Case, an Agent or Factor for the _Moravian_ Brethren, who aimed at a Settlement in these Parts, and to attain a Propriety by a prior Possession, but that no Propriety would be allowed of by our Government: That Petitions had been flung into the Board of Trade for Patents for the _Labrador_, but were rejected, and a free Trade would be permitted to all the Subjects of _Great Britain_; which open Trade was the original Design on which this Discovery was undertaken by the People in _America_; the Execution of which was not only interrupted by private Persons stealing the Scheme, and being before hand, but hath been a great Hindrance to the Fisheries being carried on in those Parts, a Trade established with the inland _Indians_ and the _Eskemaux_, and further Advantages which will be known, on our being better acquainted with those Parts. For as to this Severity of the _Eskemaux_, inexcusably barbarous, yet there were some Provocations which might have been avoided, and which incited those _Eskemaux_ to this Act, whose Hatred and Revenge, the Character of most _Indians_, are rouzed at the slightest Causes. It appears from a Journal of the Boatswain, wherein he makes a Valuation of the Trade, that they had bought a Hundred Weight of Whalebone for Six-pence. The _Eskemaux_ were also treated with great Contempt and Rudeness. A Person aboard had bought a Pair of _Eskemaux_ Boots; and carrying them into his Cabbin, an _Eskemaux_ followed claiming the Boots as his, saying that he who sold them had no Right to sell them; and the Buyer settled the Matter by presenting a Pistol at his Head. On which the _Eskemaux_ cried out in the _French_, _Tout_, _Comerado_, and retired.

Capt. _Goff_ came this Year in Hopes to recover the People who were missing with the Boat, and to make a further Essay as to the Trade, but brought no Settlers with him, intended immediately for the Coast, which he could not attain to on Account of the Ice, and went to _Trinity_ Bay in _Newfoundland_, where he staid some Time. Sailed from thence the 27th of _June_; the 2d of _July_ saw _French_ Ships in the Streights of _Belle Isle_, retarded by the Ice; and the 9th of _July_ joined Capt. _Taylor_ in a Sloop of about 35 Tons, fitted out from _Rhode Island_ to go in Pursuit of a _North-west Passage_; and if not successful to come down on the Coast of _Labrador_. Capt. _Goff_ said he had learned by Capt. _Taylor_ that the _Philadelphia_ Schooner would be out, and he should have suspected this to be her, but she entered the Inlet so readily, and came up with that Boldness as could not but think that the Schooner was a _French_ Vessel acquainted with the Coast; and he had received Orders to avoid any Harbour in which a _French_ Ship should appear. Capt. _Taylor_ had seen a large _French_ Sloop in Latitude 53, and to the Northward three hundred _Eskemaux_, who had nothing to trade but their old Cloaths, and who were going further to Northward, but were hindered by the Ice. Capt. _Goff_ and _Taylor_, who had entered into an Agreement to associate, were eight Days grappled to the Ice, and did not arrive at _Nesbit_'s Harbour until the 20th of _July_. But had traded with some of the _Eskemaux_ before, though for small Matters, and had some of these _Eskemaux_ aboard for three successive Days, who then left them, and came no more aboard the Vessels. Capt. _Goff_ suspected, though he had altered his Dress, that they had then recollected him. The 1st of _August_ they sailed from _Nesbit_'s Harbour, and attained to this Inlet where he now was; and on the 11th sailed to the Northward, when Capt. _Taylor_ left him; and on the 25th returned here again. That the Smoke which the Persons saw on the Island when they travelled over Land, and which the Schooner passed that Day, was made by his Order, but that he had not made any other Smoke, and this was for a Direction for his Longboat, gone to the Northward to trade, and to signify to Capt. _Taylor_ his being in the Harbour, whose Return he expected.

Capt. _Goff_ said he had been in no Inlet but _Nesbit_'s Harbour, and in this where the Snow was; and that Capt. _Taylor_, in the Snow's Longboat, had searched the Head of this Inlet, shewed a Draught of the Coast, which was defective, as he knew nothing of the intermediate Inlets. Had no Account of the inland Country; of there being any Beaver or other Furs to be acquired there; or of there being any Mines, of which the Schooner's People had seen many Instances, and had collected some Ore. Capt. _Goff_ had two _Dutch_ Draughts of the Coast, made from late Surveys; but they were very inaccurate, the Views taken from Sea, and there the Land appeared close and continued; the Inlets, excepting that in which they now were, appearing like small Bays, their Entrance being covered by Islands. They had, this Year, found the Corpse of one of those who went in the Boat, stripped and lying on an island.

It being rainy Weather, and the Wind contrary to the Schooner's going up the Inlet, they were detained, and on _September_ the 8th the Snow's Longboat returned, after having been out fourteen Days, with some Whalebone, and a Quantity of _Eskemaux_ Cloathing, which being examined to find out if the _Eskemaux_ wore Furs, there was only seen a small Slip of Otter Skin on one of the Frocks. And Capt. _Goff_, being asked, said he never saw any Furs amongst them. It is pretty evident the _Eskemaux_ only pass along this Coast, to go and trade with the _Eskemaux_ in _Hudson_'s Streights, and occasionally put in as Weather or other Occasions may make it necessary, which keeps the Native or inland _Indians_ from the Coast, as they are their Enemies. The _Eskemaux_ go up to Latitude 58, or further North; there leave their great Boats, pass a small Neck of Land, taking their Canoes with them, and then go into another Water which communicates with _Hudson_'s Streights. Carry their Return of Trade into _Eskemaux_ Bay, where they live in Winter; and the _French_ made considerable Returns to _Old France_, by the Whalebone and Oil procured from these People. And this Account is agreeable to the best Information that could be procured.