The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"
CHAPTER XIV.
THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.
"Haste thee, Nymph, and bring with thee Jest and youthful jollity, Quips, and cranks, and wanton wiles, Nods, and becks, and wreathed smiles, Sport that wrinkled Care derides, And Laughter holding both his sides."
MILTON.
Sir Edward Parry, during his first and subsequent winters in the Arctic Regions, fully recognized the importance of not only exercising and improving the minds of those under his command, during the long period of enforced inaction, but also of amusing them, and letting them feel that they also were assisting in the amusement of their shipmates. To do this he instituted an evening school on the lower deck, the officers acting as teachers; and he established periodicals, dramatic and other entertainments, in which he himself joined and took a conspicuous part.
His wise example has been generally followed by the different expeditions that subsequently wintered in the Arctic Regions.
It is, in fact, very necessary to exercise both the physical and mental powers of the men during the dark months, for when once the ship has been safely established in winter quarters little work remains to be done. The officers are constantly employed in taking and working up observations in various branches of science; but the seaman has little to do but reflect on, and possibly brood over, his situation. It is, therefore, absolutely essential that some means should be devised to drive from him all unpleasant thoughts, and to make him feel that it is in his power to relieve the tedium of what would otherwise be a long and monotonous winter.
Each ship had been provided, before leaving England, with a printing-press, and an officer and seaman[1] had been instructed in its use.
As soon as it was set up and in working order, the following prospectus was issued by the "firm."
"THE ARCTIC PRINTING OFFICE.
"Messrs. Giffard and Symons beg to inform the public that they have obtained--at an immense cost and with infinite trouble--possession of the extensive premises, lately occupied by Mr. Clements Markham, situated in Trap Lane, within half a minute's walk of the foremost Quarter Deck Ladder, and easily accessible to all parts of the city.
"They have fitted up their new establishment--_regardless of expense_--with all the _latest inventions_ and _newest machinery_, to enable them to carry on the noble art of printing in a style and with a rapidity hitherto quite unattainable.
"They therefore expect from the public that support and assistance which it always gives to the _truly deserving_.
"Charges moderate. No credit given. All work required to be executed to be paid for in advance.
"N.B. Everything undertaken promptly and correctly executed.
"H.M.S. 'Alert,'
"July 28, 1875."
The "cost" and "trouble" alluded to in this production, that were expended in obtaining a convenient place in which to carry out the "noble art of printing," were caused by the fact that our photographers were equally anxious, with our printers, to possess themselves of the small cabin lately occupied by my cousin, and which is so grandiloquently alluded to as "extensive premises." In fact, for some little time it was a very sore and vexed question between those two celebrated and energetic firms. Trap Lane was so called in consequence of the after-hold being immediately outside the door of the cabin; and it occasionally served as a very disagreeable kind of man-trap when, through inadvertence, the hatch had not been replaced. As this part of the ship was, during the early part of her commission, in total darkness, owing to the piles of stores that were stowed in every available corner, it is no wonder that unsuspecting individuals should occasionally have fallen into the trap!
Our printing-press was, it is almost needless to say, of great use to us during the winter; for, although it never printed very much for the public service, it was constantly called into requisition for the purpose of striking off programmes for our dramatic and other entertainments; and on such important events as birthdays and Christmas-day we indulged in the extravagance of printed bills of fare. On the whole the printing establishment on board the "Alert" tended very materially to beguile the tedium of our long nights, and must therefore be regarded as a decided success.
Our school was opened on the 1st of November; from which date, until the reappearance of the sun, the attendance was regular and constant. It was composed of nearly the whole ship's company, and was divided into classes under the direct superintendence of the officers. Reading, writing, history, arithmetic, and navigation were the principal subjects in which the pupils were instructed.
The school was held on the lower deck between eight and nine o'clock in the evening, the classes occupying the different mess-tables. Only two men out of the entire ship's company were unable to read and write, and these two men were placed in a class with two others, who were unable to read and write English.[2] This class was presided over by the doctor, who kindly volunteered to devote himself to the instruction of the "cripples," as they were facetiously called.
As an illustration of the improvement which has taken place in the education of the men belonging to the Royal Navy during the last half-century, it may be mentioned that, whereas in Parry's time it was quite the exception to find a man that could read or write, with us the exception was entirely the other way, only two men out of fifty-five being ignorant of those accomplishments.
Never were seen such painstaking and willing scholars as our men showed themselves to be. It is impossible to conceive a more orderly or well-conducted school, and it was a pleasure to the masters to devote their time to classes that evinced such an earnest desire of acquiring knowledge as did those on board the "Alert."
Here might be observed a staid old seaman, whose great brawny hand appeared more suited to grasp the marline-spike than the pen, vainly endeavouring, with his elbows squared, his weather-beaten face close down over his work, and his tongue thrust out, to arrive at some satisfactory result in a simple addition sum. As a contrast to this, at the opposite table might be seen a smart young sailor, who had distanced all his competitors in arithmetic, asking abstruse questions in mensuration of such a nature as to make even his tutor feel uncomfortable!
After the classes were dismissed, the men enjoyed an uninterrupted evening to themselves. Games of various descriptions, such as chess, bagatelle, draughts, and cribbage, had been purchased for their amusement before leaving England, and were in constant requisition during the winter. A large space on the starboard side of the deck, abaft the living deck, was allotted to the smokers, and here were held our dramatic and weekly entertainments on Thursdays. On Sundays Divine service was performed in the same place.
Books were also a source of great amusement and interest to many of the men who were studiously inclined, as the well-thumbed volumes in our library soon testified. Several men wrote regular journals, which were even kept up by a few whilst they were sledging. Amongst the officers, chess, backgammon, and a rubber in the captain's cabin, formed the chief amusements. Although gambling is discountenanced (or ought to be) on board every well-regulated man of war, we so far forgot ourselves as to indulge largely in this vice. Seldom was a game played without a stake on the result! The stakes, too, were exorbitant, frequently as much as one lucifer match per game! It must be remembered that matches were very scarce and precious articles with us, and it was therefore a very high and valuable stake. On one occasion, one of my messmates was so rash as to wager a tallow-candle on the result of a game; but this was an offer of such magnitude that no one was sufficiently brave or sporting to accept it.
Among the many valuable gifts showered upon us by kind and generous friends at home was an excellent piano, and fortunately amongst the officers there was a very talented musician, to whose good nature and willing efforts to please must be attributed many a pleasant hour, when our hearts were warmed by well-known airs bringing back happy home memories.
Thursday evenings were always devoted to dramatic entertainments, magic-lantern exhibitions, instructive lectures, reading, and music both vocal and instrumental. These entertainments were kept up with the same spirit, and without a break, during the whole winter. They went by the name of our "Thursday Pops," and afforded much pleasure and amusement. They were announced to the general Arctic public by the following printed notice, which was widely circulated.
H.M.S. "ALERT."
THURSDAY POPULAR ENTERTAINMENTS.
On Thursday, the 11th of November, 1875, will commence a series of popular entertainments, that will consist of lectures, readings, recitations, and music, both vocal and instrumental, etc. No trouble or expense have been spared in obtaining the services of a great number of the most talented men of the day. The entertainment will be given in the airy and commodious hall situated in Funnel Row.
PROGRAMME:
_Astronomical Lecture_ (with discussion) Capt. NARES. _Song_ "I knew that I was dreaming" Mr. GOOD. _Song_ "Watercresses" Mr. SHIRLEY. _Reading_ "The Jumping Frog" Dr. MOSS. _Song_ "An Englishman am I" Mr. CANE. _Song_ "Broken down" Mr. BRYANT. _Glee_ "The Wreath" Messrs. ALDRICH, PULLEN, and RAWSON. _Song_ "The White Squall" Mr. MASKELL.
God save the Queen.
No encores. Doors open at 7.30. Sledges may be ordered at 9 o'clock
Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
This was the first notification issued regarding our weekly entertainments, and, coming out a day or two before the performance, it naturally caused considerable excitement and flutter amongst the Arctic playgoing world!
Except on the evenings exclusively devoted to the legitimate drama, these entertainments were always preceded by a lecture delivered by one of the officers, on some interesting and at the same time instructive subject, adapted to the knowledge and intelligence of the audience. A list of the lectures so delivered cannot fail to be of interest.
1. On astronomy Capt. Nares. 2. A few words on magnetism Lieut. Giffard. 3. On geology Capt. Feilden. 4. A few words on meteorology Lieut. Aldrich. 5. A few words on steam Mr. Wootton. 6. Mock moons under the microscope Dr. Moss. 7. On light Lieut. Parr. 8. An historical lecture Mr. White. 9. A few words on astronomy Com. Markham. 10. Our food in the arctic regions Dr. Colan. 11. A few words on arctic plants Rev. H. W. Pullen. 12. On hydrostatics Lieut. May. 13. Sledging experiences Capt. Nares.
Nearly all the officers took part in these lectures, and I have not the slightest doubt that all would have done so had there been any more Thursdays to spare. They were eagerly listened to by the ship's company, and afforded quite as much pleasure as the readings and songs that followed, in the performance of which they all, with only one or two exceptions, took part.
The first real dramatic entertainment came off on the following Thursday. Our plan was for the men to act one piece and the officers another, and this was found to work very well. But the rehearsals were a difficulty, and we were frequently compelled to shut ourselves up in our own cabins in order to secure the necessary quiet and privacy to enable us to become perfect in our different parts.
The costumes were, of course, a subject of much discussion and deep interest. The making up of dresses, and the manufacture of wigs from musk-ox skins and oakum, sorely taxed our ingenuity and employed minds and fingers that had hitherto been strangers to such occupations. Many were the needles broken, and many were the fingers pricked, before our ideal costumes were realized. Eiderdown quilts had to be converted into the robes of a lovely oriental princess; old uniform coats were beautified with spangles and tinsel, and appeared as the fashionable habiliments of a dandy of the seventeenth century; whilst a wicked magician, of the Hebrew persuasion, appeared in a coat of unmistakeable clerical cut.
Egerton was an indefatigable stage manager, and the scenic arrangements under the direction of Moss, who was also the artist, could not be excelled. Aldrich at the piano (as our orchestra) was a host in himself, adding materially to the success of the entertainments. In fact, officers and men vied with each other in their endeavours to promote amusement and hilarity, and if their histrionic abilities were not of the highest order, the zeal and energy of the actors fully compensated for this deficiency.
We enjoyed a rare freedom from harsh ill-natured critics. These pests do not venture across the Arctic Circle. All who visited the Royal Arctic Theatre (re-opened after a lapse of twenty-one years) came with a firm resolve to please or be pleased. Acting upon this determination, our entertainments were bound to be successful. The following prologue, composed for the occasion by Pullen, was spoken at the opening of our theatre, on Thursday, the 18th of November, 1875.
"Kind friends, with kindly greetings met to-day, We bid you welcome to our opening play: You, whose indulgent smile forbids the fear Of scornful wit or captious critic here. To-day we welcome you, and not to-night, For all is noon with us--all summer bright; And though the southern sun has ceased to pour His glittering rays upon our ice-bound shore-- Has ceased awhile to touch with drops of gold The crystal corners of our hummocks bold; We bear a warm soft light that never fades-- A lustrous light amid these Greenland shades; All trustful of each other's love, we learn With steady flame our lamp of Hope to burn; And suns may set, and twilights disappear-- They shall not rob us of our Christmas cheer; Nor blinding drift, nor frozen wave, shall chill Our laughter glad--for laugh, brave boys, we will; Kindling yet once again the genial glow Of happy English homes on Arctic floe.
"Yet once again; for none would here forget We are but sons of fathers living yet; In work and play alike, we but renew The deeds of men who taught us what to do. And though, more favoured than the rest, we soar To loftier flights than theirs who went before; Though ours the boast, by skilful guidance led, In virgin climes our shifting scene to spread; We love to read on history's faithful page, Of ancient triumphs on our Northern stage, And boldly for our brave forerunners claim An Arctic 'cast' already known to fame.
"Now let the tell-tale curtain rise, and say What we have done to while your hours away. Such as we have, we bring you of our best, And to your kind forbearance leave the rest. One only grief is ours, and you shall share With us the burden of that gentle care. One cherished form we miss--one touch alone-- One glance of love--one tender, thrilling tone. Ah! in the sweet homes of our native isle The dear ones move, and minister, and smile. We would not wish them here, but this we know, Their thoughts are with us every step we go: Their life sets northward o'er the cold, grey sea: They live in wondering what our life may be; And heart draws near to heart, and soul to soul, Till each has found its true magnetic pole.
"God bless and keep them in His mighty hand-- Our wives and sweethearts, and the dear old land!"
The prologue was warmly applauded. At its conclusion the curtain rose, and the following programme, showing the plays that were acted and the cast of characters, was proceeded with.
THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE
Will be re-opened on Thursday next, the 18th instant, by the powerful dramatic company of
HYPERBOREANS!
Under the distinguished patronage of Capt. Nares, the members of the Arctic Exploring Expedition, and all the nobility and gentry of the neighbourhood.
The world-wide reputation of this company is quite unrivalled. The manager has spared neither trouble nor expense in forming this company, and has selected none but the very best _artistes_--the ladies being from England--who, having numerous other engagements, can remain for a short time only.
The scenic arrangements, under the control and manipulation of that celebrated artist, Professor Moss, _must_ be acknowledged to be unparalleled in the experience of ages and of the highest order.
The orchestra, under the management of Signore Aldrichi (lately from Milan) cannot fail to be appreciated by the audience.
At 7.30 will commence the celebrated nautical farce
THE CHOPS OF THE CHANNEL.
CHARACTERS:
Leander Hellespont Mr. Stuckberry. Mr. Counter Balance Mr. Woolley. Gratings (Steward) Mr. Burroughs. Mrs. Hellespont Mdlle. Francombi. Mrs. Veneer Mdme. Maskelli.
Time The present day. Scene Saloon of a Boulogne steamer.
Interval of ten minutes.
During the interval the renowned vocalist, Mr. Stone, will sing THE IRISH BARBER.
After which will be performed the screaming tragico-comico burlesque entitled
VILIKINS AND HIS DINAH.
CHARACTERS:
Master Grumbleton Gruffin, a rich (soap) merchant of London, the original parient Com. Markham.
Baron Boski Bumble, ancestor of the celebrated beadle, the original lovier so gallant and gay Mr. Egerton.
William Wilkins, socially and convivially known as Vilikins, a young apprentice, in desperate love with Mr. Rawson.
Dinah Gruffin, the sole feminine offspring of the above-mentioned soap-merchant, in love with the aforesaid Vilikins Mdlle. Blanc.