Category: Travel Writing

The Golden Chersonese and the Way Thither

The snowy dome of Fujisan, reddening in the sunrise, rose above the violet woodlands of Mississippi Bay as we steamed out of Yokohama harbor on the 19th, and three days later I saw the last of Japan--a rugged coast, lashed by a wintry sea.

Chapters

15. Chapter 15

The Appurtenances of Civilization--Babu--Characteristics of Captain Murray--An Embodied Government--Chinese Mining Enterprise--A Chinese Gaming-House--The "Capitans China"--New-...

20. Chapter 20

The Dindings--The Tragedy on Pulu Pangkor--A Tropic Sunrise--Sir W. Robinson's Departure--"A Touch of the Sun"--Kling Beauty--A Question and Answer--The Bazaars of Georgetown--T...

12. Chapter 12

Malacca fascinates me more and more daily. There is, among other things, a mediaevalism about it. The noise of the modern world reaches it only in the faintest echoes; its sleep...

25. Chapter 25

A Joyous Welcome--A Severe Mortification--The British Resident--Daily Visitors--Rajah Dris--A Tipsy Ape--Marriage Ceremonies--Marriage Festivities--Malay Children--The Rajah Mud...

28. Chapter 28

However kind and hospitable people are, the process of "breaking in" to conventionalities again is always a severe one, and I never feel well except in the quiet and freedom of...

27. Chapter 27

A Pleasant Canter--A Morning Hymn--The Pass of Bukit Berapit--The "Wearing World" Again!--A Bad Spirit--Malay Demonology--"Running Amuck"--An Amok-Runner's Career--The Supposed...

11. Chapter 11

The Lieutenant-Governor of Malacca--A Charming Household--The Old Stadthaus--A Stately Habitation--An Endless Siesta--A Tropic Dream--Chinese Houses--Chinese Wealth and Ascenden...

24. Chapter 24

Mystification--A Grotesque Dinner-Party--Mahmoud and Eblis--Fun and Frolic--Mahmoud's Antics--A Perak Jungle--The Poetry of Tropical Life--Village Life--The Officials of the Mos...

21. Chapter 21

Province Wellesley--Water Buffaloes--A Glorious Night--Perak Officials--A "Dismal Swamp"--Elephants at Home--An Epigrammatic Description--The British Residency at Taipeng--Sulta...

23. Chapter 23

Novel Circumstances--The Excitements of the Jungle--Eternal Summer--The Sensitive Plant--The Lotus Lake of Matang-- Elephant Ugliness--A Malay Mahout--A Novel Experience-- Domes...

4. Chapter 4

In the week in which I have been here I have given myself up to ceaseless sight-seeing. Almost the first sight that I saw on arriving in this quarter, which is in Canton itself,...

8. Chapter 8

A Cochin China River--The Ambition of Saigon--A French Colonial Metropolis--European Life in Saigon-A Cochin-Chinese Village--"Afternoon Tea" in Choquan--Anamese Children--Anami...

14. Chapter 14

The Tomb of "A Great Prophet"--"Durance Vile"--Fragile Travelers--Our Craft--A Night in the Jungle--Nocturnal Revelations--January in the Perak Jungle--Glories of the Jungle--Ac...

5. Chapter 5

Outside the Naam-Hoi Prison--The Punishment of the Cangue--Crime and Misery--A Birthday Banquet--"Prisoners and Captives"--Prison Mortality--Cruelties and Iniquities--The Porch...

9. Chapter 9

Beauties of the Tropics--Singapore Hospitality--An Equatorial Metropolis--An Aimless Existence--The Growth of Singapore--"Farms" and "Farmers"--The Staple of Conversation--The G...

17. Chapter 17

I was glad to get up at sunrise, when the whole heaven was flooded with color and glory, and the lingering mists which lay here and there over the jungle gleamed like silver. Be...

16. Chapter 16

I am once again on board this quaint little Chinese steamer, which is rolling on a lazy ground-swell on the heated, shallow sea. We were to have sailed at four P.M., but mat-sai...

3. Chapter 3

You will remember that it is not very long since a piratical party of Chinese, shipping as steerage passengers on board one of these Hong Kong river steamers, massacred the offi...

26. Chapter 26

Yesterday afternoon I had an expedition which I liked very much, though it ended a little awkwardly owing to a late start. Captain Walker was going on a shooting excursion to a...

19. Chapter 19

You will certainly think, from the dates of my letters, that I am usually at sea. The Resident, his daughter, Mrs. Daly, Mr. Hawley, a revenue officer, and I, left Klang this mo...

13. Chapter 13

SEMPANG POLICE STATION (At the junction of the Loboh-Chena, and Linggi rivers), Territory of the Datu Klana of Sungei Ujong, Malay Peninsula. January 24, 1 P.M. Mercury, 87 degr...

7. Chapter 7

The year seems already getting old and frowzy. Under these blue skies, and with all the doors and windows open, I should think it midsummer if I did not look at the calendar. Oh...

2. Chapter 2

I like and admire Victoria. It is so pleasant to come in from the dark, misty, coarse, loud-tongued Pacific, and the December colorlessness of Japan to bright blue waters crispe...

1. Chapter 1

The snowy dome of Fujisan, reddening in the sunrise, rose above the violet woodlands of Mississippi Bay as we steamed out of Yokohama harbor on the 19th, and three days later I...

18. Chapter 18

I have had two days of supposed quiet here after the charming expedition to Langat. The climate seems very healthy. The mercury has been 87 degrees daily, but then it falls to 7...

6. Chapter 6

Although I went to the execution ground two days before my visit to the prison, the account of it belongs to this place. Passing through the fruit-market, the "Covent Garden" of...

10. Chapter 10

Yesterday I attended morning service in St. Andrew's, a fine colonial cathedral, prettily situated on a broad grass lawn among clumps of trees near the sea. There is some staine...

22. Chapter 22

Larut province is a strip of land about seventy miles long, and from twenty-five to forty-five broad. It was little known, and almost unexplored till 1848, when a Malay, while b...