PART I.
Page 1.--Introductory. 1
Visit to Penrhyn; the Cleavage of Slate Rocks; Sedgwick's theory--its difficulties; Sharpe's observations; Sorby's experiments; Lecture at the Royal Institution; Glacier Lamination; arrangement of an expedition to Switzerland
2.--Expedition of 1856: the Oberland. 9
Valley of Lauterbrunnen; Pliability of rocks; the Wengern Alp; the Jungfrau and Silberhorn; Ice avalanches; Glaciers formed from them; Scene from the Little Scheideck; the Lower Grindelwald Glacier; the Heisse Platte--its Avalanches; Ice Minarets and Blocks; Echoes of the Wetterhorn; analogy with the Reflection of Light from angular mirrors; the Reichenbach Cascade; Handeck Fall; the Grimsel; the Unteraar Glacier; hut of M. Dollfuss; Hotel des Neufchatelois; the Rhone glacier from the Mayenwand; expedition up the glacier; Coloured Rings round the sun; crevasses of the _neve_; extraordinary meteorological phenomenon; Spirit of the Brocken
3.--The Tyrol. 23
Kaunserthal and the Gebatsch Alp; Senner or Cheesemakers; Gebatsch Glacier; a night in a cowshed; passage to Lantaufer; a chamois on the rocks; my Guide; the atmospheric snow-line; passage of the Stelvio; Colour of fresh snow; Bormio; the pass recrossed by night; aspect of the mountains; Meran to Unserfrau; passage of the Hochjoch to Fend; singular hailstorm; wild glacier region; hidden crevasses; First Paper presented to the Royal Society
4.--Expedition of 1857: the Lake of Geneva. 33
Blueness of the water; the head of the Lake; appearance of the Rhone; subsidence of particles; Mirage
5.--Chamouni and the Montanvert. 37
Arrival; Coloured Shadows on the snow; Source of the Arveiron; fall of the Vault; "Sunrise in the Valley of Chamouni;" Scratched Rocks; quarters at the Montanvert
6.--The Mer de Glace. 42
Not a _Sea_ but a _River_ of ice; Wave-forms on its surface; their explanation; Structure and Strata; Glacier Tables; first view of the Dirt Bands; influence of Illumination in rendering them visible; the Eye incapable of detecting differences between intense lights
7. 46
Measurements commenced; the "Cleft Station" at Trelaporte; Regelation of snow granules; two chamois; view of the Mer de Glace and its Tributaries; _Seracs_ of the Col du Geant; Sliding and Viscous theories; Rending of the ice; Striae on its surface; White Ice-seams
8. 57
Alone upon the glacier; Lakes and Rivulets; parallel between Glacier and Geological disturbance; splendid rainbow; aspect of the glacier at the base of the Seracs; visit to the Chief Guide at Chamouni; Liberties granted
9.--The Jardin. 61
Glacier du Talefre; Jardin divides the neve; Blue Veins near the summit; surrounding scene; Moraines and Avalanches; Cascade du Talefre; dangers on approaching it from above
10. 64
Lightning and Rain; Spherical hailstones; an evening among the crevasses; Dangerous Leap; ice-practice; preparations for an ascent of Mont Blanc
11.--First Ascent of Mont Blanc (1857). 68
Across the mountain to the Glacier des Bossons; its crevasses; Ladder left behind; consequent difficulties; the Grands Mulets; Twinkling and change of Colour of the Stars; moonlight on the mountains; start with one guide; difficulties among the crevasses; the Petit Plateau; Seracs of the Dome du Gouter; bad condition of snow; the Grand Plateau; Coloured Spectra round the sun; the lost Guides; the Route missed; dangerous ice-slope; Guide exhausted; cutting steps; cheerless prospect; the Corridor; the Mur de la Cote; the Petits Mulets; food and drink disappear; Physiological experiences on the Calotte; Summit attained; the Clouds and Mountains; experiment on Sound; colour of the snow; the descent; a solitary prisoner; second night at the Grands Mulets; Inflammation of eyes; a blind man among the crevasses; descent to Chamouni; thunder on Mont Blanc
12. 86
Life at the Montanvert; glacier "Blower;" Cascade of the Talefre; difficulties in setting out lines; departure from the Montanvert; my hosts; prospect from the Glacier des Bois; Edouard Simond
13.--Expedition of 1858. 92
Origin and aim of the expedition; Laminated Structure of the ice
14.--Passage of the Strahleck. 93
Unpromising weather; appearance of the glacier and of the adjacent mountains; Transverse Protuberances; Dirt Bands; Structure; a Slip on a snow slope; the Finsteraarhorn; the Schreckhorn; extraordinary Atmospheric Effects; Summit of the Strahleck; Grand Amphitheatre; mutations of the clouds; descent of the rocks; a Bergschrund; fog in the valley; descent to the Grimsel
15. 99
Ancient Glaciers in the valley of Hasli; Rounded, Polished, and Striated Rocks; level of the ancient ice; Groovings on the Grimsel Pass; glacier of the Rhone; descent of the Rhone valley; the AEggischhorn; Cloud Iridescences; the Aletsch glacier; the Maerjelen See; Icebergs; Tributaries of the Aletsch; Grand glacier-region; crevasses; a chamois deceived
16.--Ascent of the Finsteraarhorn. 104
Character of my Guide; iridescent cloud; evening on the Faulberg; the Jungfrau and her neighbours; a Mountain Cave; the Jungfrau before dawn; contemplated visit; the Gruenhorn Luecke; Magnificent Corridor; sunrise; neve of the Viesch glacier; halt at the base of the Finsteraarhorn; Spurs and Couloirs of the mountain; Pyramidal Crest; scene of Agassiz's observations; a hard climb; discipline of such an ascent; Boiling Point; Registering Thermometer, its fate; daring utterance; descent by glissades; the Viesch glacier; hidden crevasses; a brave and competent guide
17. 119
Subsequent days at the AEggischhorn; Afloat on the Icebergs; Bedding and Structure; Ancient Moraines of the Aletsch; Scratched Rocks; passage of the mountains to the end of the glacier; a wild gorge; arrival at Zermatt; the Riffelberg
18.--First Ascent of Monte Rosa. 122
The ascent new to myself and my guide; directions; Ulrich Lauener; Ominous Clouds; passage of the Goerner Glacier; Roches Moutonnees; Avalanche from the Twins; gradual advance of clouds; bridged chasms; Scene from a cliff; apparent atmospheric struggle; Sound of the snow; Dangerous Edge; Overhanging Cornice; staff driven through it; increased obscurity; Rocky Crest; loss of pocket-book; Summit attained; Boiling Point; fall of snow; exquisite forms of the Snow Crystals; a shower of frozen blossoms; the descent; mode of attachment; Startling Avalanche; Blue Light emitted from the fissures of the fresh snow; Stifling Heat; return to the Riffel
19. 133
The Rothe Kumm; pleasant companions; difficult descent; temperatures of rock, air, and grass; Singular Cavern in the ice; Structure and Stratification
20.--The Goerner Grat and the Riffelhorn; Magnetic Phenomena. 137
Formation and Dissipation of clouds; Scene from the Goerner Grat; Magnetism of the Rocks; the Compass and Sun at variance; ascent of the Riffelhorn; Magnetic effects; places of most intense action; Scratched and Polished Rocks; Exfoliation of crust produced by the sliding of ancient glaciers; Magnetic Polarity; Consequent Points; Bearings from the Riffelhorn; action on a Distant Needle
21. 145
Fog on the Riffelberg; its dissipation; Sunset from the Goerner Grat; Cloud-wreaths on the Matterhorn; Streamers of Flame; grand Interference Phenomenon; investigation of Structure; the Goernerhorn glacier; Western glacier of Monte Rosa; the Schwarze, Trifti, and Theodule glaciers; welding of the Tributaries to parallel Strips; Temptation
22.--Second Ascent of Monte Rosa (1858). 151
A Light Scrip; my Guide lent; a substitute; a party on the mountain; across the glacier and up the rocks; the guide expostulates; among the crevasses; the guide halts; left alone; beauty of the mountain; splendid effects of Diffraction; Cheer from the summit; on the Kamm; climbers meet; among the rocks; Alone on the Summit; the Axe slips; the prospect; the descent; serious accident; a word on climbing alone
23. 160
The Furgge glacier; thunder and lightning; the Weissthor given up; excursion by Stalden to Saas; Herr Imseng; the Mattmark See and Hotel; ascent of a boulder; Snow-storm; cold quarters; the Monte Moro; the Allalein glacier; a noble vault; Structure and Dirt-bands; stormy weather; Avalanches at Saas; the Fee glacier; Frozen dust on the Mischabelhoerner; Snow, Vapour, and Cloud; curious effect on the hearing; "a Terrible Hole;" singular group; a Song from 'The Robbers'
24. 168
Need of observations on Alpine Temperature; Balmat's intention; aid from the Royal Society; Difficulties at Chamouni in 1858; the Intendant memorialised; his response; the Seracs revisited; Crevasses and Crumples; bad weather; thermometers placed at the Jardin; Avalanches of the Talefre; wondrous sky
25.--Second Ascent of Mont Blanc (1858). 177
Shadows of the Aiguilles; Silver Trees at sunrise; M. Necker's letter; Birds as Sparks and Stars against the sky; crevasse bridged; ladder rejected; a hunt for a _pont_; crevasses crossed; Magnificent Sunset; illuminated clouds; Storm on the Grands Mulets; a Comet discovered; start by starlight; the Petit Plateau a reservoir for avalanches; Balmat's warning; the Grand Plateau at dawn; blue of the ice; Balmat in danger; Clouds upon the Calotte; the Summit; wind and snow-dust; Balmat frostbitten; halt on the Calotte; descent to Chamouni; good conduct of porters
26. 192
Hostility of Chief Guide; Proces Verbal; the British Association; application to the Sardinian authorities; President's Letter; Royal Society; Testimonial to Balmat
27.--Winter Expedition to the Mer de Glace, 1859. 195
First defeat and fresh attempt; Geneva to Chamouni; deep snow; Desolation; slow progress; a horse in the snow; a struggle; Chamouni on Christmas night; mountains hidden; Climb to the Montanvert; Snow on the Pines; debris of avalanches; Breaking of snow; Atmospheric Changes; the mountains concealed and revealed; colour of the snow; the Montanvert in Winter; footprints in the snow; wonderful frost figures; Crystal Curtain; the Mer de Glace in Winter; the first night; "a rose of dawn;" Crimson Banners of the Aiguilles; the stakes fixed; a Hurricane on the glacier; the second night; Wild Snow-storm; a man in a crevasse; calm; Magnificent Snow Crystals; Sound through the falling snow; swift descent; Source of the Arveiron; Crystal Cave; appearance of water; westward from the vault; Majestic Scene; Farewell