Part 25

When the small holdings had been left far in the rear and rocky hills rose beyond the fertile fields, his assumed composure vanished. He became frankly excited, eagerly watching the lonely road and scanning the fields for sign of familiar forms and faces.

As the coach made a momentary pause while the driver delivered a loaf and an amorphous parcel to a road-mender, the Exile, thrusting his head from the back window, shouted greeting. And the roadman, recognizing an old friend, ran after the already receding coach to grasp him warmly by the hand.

The driver was wide-awake now, and evidently determined to make up for lost time. And the cigars our Exile wished to give the _caminero_ had to be thrown on the road, from which with grateful nods and smiles he picked them up.

As he drew near his old home the Exile, though even more keenly alert, became silent. When the little _taverna_ by the wayside came in sight the driver, rising to the occasion, put on pace and pulled up before the door in grand style.

The unusual sight of the coach stopping brought the old _tavernero_ and his wife to the wide doorway. From my perch on the box I saw their expressions change from surprise to amazed delight. It was the father--a typical Majorcan with a hale spare figure and shrewd kindly face--who, advancing first, seized his exultant son in his arms. The mother held back a moment, quivering with joyous emotions, her lips parted in speechless welcome. Then, running forward, she fell upon his neck.

The host and hostess of the Fonda Marina gave us hearty welcome, and, as before, heaped benefits upon us. In our three months of absence young Cristobal had grown perceptibly. He was at school now, and had already learned to recite in Spanish sing-song the days of the week and the months of the year.

Our former rooms overlooking the bay were vacant, and for three long summer days we wandered as we listed--over the white sands, which were now rich with the rare shells and scarlet coral for which, on our previous visit, I had looked in vain; or among the pines, whose sun-distilled fragrance mingled with the sea air. One radiant morning we took a luncheon basket and wandered as far as the Albufera, but at all other times the excellent cooking of the mistress of the _fonda_ lured us back in time for meals.

The few people we encountered looked pleasantly at us. And the Captain of the Port--a retired naval officer who spent much of his time fishing from a boat moored at his own front door--most courteously called, and presented me with a bouquet sent by the ladies of his house.

Monday evening saw us back at the Casa Tranquila. With Tuesday began the uncongenial labour of dissolution; for the little house that during the never-to-be-forgotten months had been our headquarters had to be emptied of its contents. Our belongings were few in number, but our manner of living had brought us into such intimate relations with them that we felt personal interest in each article. We had developed quite an affection for our yellow cups and saucers with their crude bunches of red and blue flowers; and our chocolate-pot of brown and yellow native ware, with its perforated lid and wooden pestle, ranked as a family friend.

The great vine that during the first months of our stay had converted the veranda into an airy bower was again covered with foliage and with embryonic clusters of grapes that some more lucky tenants would enjoy. The rose-bushes that had bloomed all winter were sending out an abundance of bud-laden shoots. Ripe lemons still clung to the higher branches of the tree, though the new fruit was already formed.

There was scant time for all we had to do. Yet we managed to pay good-bye visits; to take final peeps at our favourite haunts; to secure on behalf of a poultry-fancying friend a setting of the eggs of certain Moorish-looking fowls whose jet black bodies were topped by huge white feather turbans; to dig up bulbs of the most curious kinds of fly orchis for another friend who is so fortunate as to possess a "wonder garden."

Our final day, which rushed upon us before we had steeled ourselves to meet it, was deplorably wet. It seemed as though the climate that had treated us so generously was weeping at the thought of our departure.

We lunched daintily at the home of our good friends the Consul and his wife. Then came the moment when, for the last time, the bells of Bartolomé's chariot jingled at the door of the Casa Tranquila, and the neighbours came out to wish us God-speed. None of them came empty-handed. Pepe brought his finest carnations. The Andalusian lady, her entire brood clinging to her matronly skirts, also offered flowers, and the retired gentleman who lived in the lordly mansion across the way hastened to cut his choicest roses.

So with the carriage full of fragrant evidence of good will, we drove off, to pause a moment at Apolonia's door to bid her farewell. At the distribution of odds and ends a rug and a hat had been allotted to Apolonia. And when she seized this opportunity of thanking us for the trifles sent her, Apolonia spoke appreciatively of the rug, but there were tears in her bright eyes when she referred to the _sombrero_. And that makes one wonder how it is that the utterly useless and incongruous gifts are often the most valued. The dear old soul had never worn a hat in her life and certainly never would. The article could be of no possible use to her, but perhaps, like Jess in the _Window in Thrums_ with her mantle, she "would aye ken it was there."

As we turned the corner we got a glimpse of Mr. and Mrs. Pepe carrying a gaily coloured handkerchief containing the discarded suit of the Boy's that had fallen to Pepe's share. Waving the bundle, they indicated that they were already on their way to the tailor's to have the suit altered.

The Angelus was ringing as the _Miramar_ steamed out into the mist. Standing at the stern, we looked back while the rain-clouds gradually blotted out the town, and thought of the little house at Son Españolet standing empty and forlorn.

We had hoped that when the inevitable hour of parting came we might leave in one of those magnificent sunsets under which we had so often watched the mail-boat start for Barcelona. But though our last sight of Majorca was veiled with rain and tears, we will always remember it as a land of sunshine and of smiles.

INDEX

Afterglow, 251

Alaró, 204 Castle of, 211 Children of, 213

Albufera, the, 173

Alcudia, 169, 175 Port of, 170

Almudaina Palace, 27, 149

_Almudaina, La_, 265

Aloes, 184, 188

Amphitheatre, Roman, 176

Amusements, 277

Andalusia, family from, 22, 332

Andraitx, 111 Port of, 117

Aquarium at Porto Pi, 282

Archduke Luis Salvador, 66, 82

Arracó, 123

Artá, 227 Caves of, 232

Asparagus, wild, 288

Asphodel, 286, 298

Astronomers, British, 55

Banners, Hall of the, 235

Barbarossa, 198

Barcelona, 1

Barnils, Hotel, 5, 6

Barranco, the, 100

Basket-making, 238

Begonias, 240

Bellver, Castle of, 4, 51

Biniaraix, 100, 249

Birthday party, 102

Boot-brushing, 190

Borrow, 49

Breeches, baggy, 64, 159, 164, 282

British Consul at Iviza, 297, 321 " " " Mahón, 200 " influence in Minorca, 186

Bull-fighting, 277

Butterflies, 284

Byng, Admiral, 195

Cabo Blanco, 211

Cabo de Pera, 182, 237

Cabrera, 169, 211

Cabritt and Bassa, 209

Cactus (prickly pear), 21, 122, 124, 160, 189, 205

Cala Fonts, Minorca, 198

Cala Retjada, 238

Calvario at Pollensa, 160

Candelabra, silver, 149

Capdepera, 231, 237

Cape Vermay, 238

Carabineros, 77

Carthusian Monastery, 71

Cas Catalá, 109

Castle of Alaró, 211 " " Bellver, 4, 51 " and fortifications, Iviza, 294

Catalans, Cave of the, 218

Cathedral, Palma, 134, 143, 147 " Iviza, 294

Cave at Genova, 282 " of the Holy Well, 139 " " Ramon Lull, 86 " " Santa Inés, Iviza, 316 " Smugglers', 87

Caves of Artá, 232 " the Dragon, Manacor, 217

Chaperonage, 5, 239, 268

Charcoal stove, 45

Charioteer, our, 67, 74, 152, 277, 332

Chopin, 12,70

Christians, early, 115

Christmas Eve, 134 " market, 132

Church of Jesus, Iviza, 324

Ciudadela, Minorca, 181

Clubs, 275

Cobbler and his wife, 21, 333

Coinage, 49

Columns, Queen of the, 236

Commercial travellers, 182, 200

Conquistador, the, 4, 10, 52, 83, 109, 139, 144, 181, 194, 232 " Feast of, 143

Conscripts, 166, 280

Consell, 204

Consul, our friend the, 15, 43, 131, 202, 332

Consumos, 46, 127, 133

Cookery, 11, 33, 65, 93, 113, 156, 171, 206, 227, 236

Coral, 331

Cost of living, 276

Courtship, 268, 304, 318

Customs, 5, 130

Dances, religious, 213

Dancing at San Antonio, Iviza, 317

Delights, Cave of, 218

Deyá, 91, 254, 259

Diligence, travelling by, 105, 126, 225, 283, 329

Dogs for hunting, 239

Dress, fashionable, 266

Dress, native, 10, 61, 63, 159, 226, 265, 293, 312

Dromios, the two, 165, 168

Eagles, 71, 211, 260

Electric light, 17, 136, 206

Enciamada, the, 6

Esglayeta, 68

Exile, returned, 330

Fairy, the Good, 245, 250, 252, 255

Ferrer, 3

Firewood, 45

First communicants, 248

Flowers, wild, 99, 121, 141, 192, 220, 240, 258, 285, 286, 298

Fonda de Mallorca, Palma, 5 " " Rande, Artá, 227 " Central, Mahón, 185 " Feminias, Manacor, 216 " Marina, Alcudia, 170, 331 " at Iviza, 291

Fondas, country, 274

Footgear, 10

Fornalutx, 100

French influence, 98

Frogs at Iviza, 311

Furnishing, 17

Gardening, 21, 45

_General Chanzy_, wreck of, 182

Genova, 282

Governesses, 268

Governor of Iviza, 321, 326

Grand Hotel, Palma, 4, 204, 214, 274

Gymnesias, 11

Holy Thursday, procession on, 260

Hoo-poo, 243

Hospederia, 67, 72, 90, 260

Hospitality, 15, 325

Hotel Barnils, Palma, 5, 6 " Grand, 4, 204, 214, 274 " Marina, Sóller, 92, 97, 105, 244

Hot months, the, 273

House-hiring, 16

Housekeeping, 23

Ilex, forest of, 239

Inca, 63

Iviza, 289 British Consul at, 297, 321, 322 Castle and fortification, 294 Cathedral, 294 Cave of Santa Inés, 316 Church of Jesus, 324 Cost of living, 327 Courtship, 304, 318 Dress, 293, 302, 308, 312 Driving, 314 Early occupation of, 289 Fonda, 291 Frogs, 311 Hospitality, 325 Market, 293 Museum, 304 New Governor, 321, 326 Noria, 308, 312, 324 Phoenician catacombs, 298 Roman wall and statues, 292 Salinas, 323 San Antonio, 314 San Rafael, 314 Santo Domingo, 295 Small holdings, 308 Wild flowers, 298

King Alphonso IV, 209 " Jaime, el Conquistador, 4, 10, 52, 83, 109, 139, 144, 181, 194, 232 " Jaime II, 149 " Sancho, 69, 84

Kitchen, farm, 103, 258

Language, 48, 121, 196, 200

Laundress, our, 49, 332

Lavender, sweet, 141

Locusts, 284

Lonja, the, 56

Lull, Ramon, 83

Mahón, 184

Mallorquin antiquities, 81, 150, 177, 240 " prices, 7, 43, 44, 112, 155, 168, 170

Manacor, 216

Marketing, 7, 63, 80, 132, 159, 164, 189, 225, 283

Martel, French expert, 219

Mas, Juan, 167

Masked penitents, 263

Military service, 280

Minorca, 181 Athenæum at Mahón, 189 Barbarossa, 198 Boot-brushing, 190 British Consul, 200 " influence, 186 Byng, Admiral, 195 Cala Fonts, 198 Ciudadela, 181 Commercial travellers, 182, 200 English words, 196 Fonda Central Mahón, 185 Market at Mahón, 189 San Luis, 195 Talyots, 190 Taula, 192 Villa Carlos, 198 Whitewash, 185 Wreck of the _General Chanzy_, 182

Miramar, 75

Monastery, Carthusian, 71

Montjuich, 3

Moorish oppression, 144 " refugees, 232 " tower, 173

Mosquitoes, 118, 285

Music, 31, 102, 140, 145

Navidad, 128

Nightingales, 245

Noria, 174, 308, 312, 324

Offerings, votive, 162, 297

Olive-oil factory, 103

Operations in church, exciting, 220

Orchis, fly, 220, 286

Our Lady of the Peak, 164 " " " Refuge, 209

Palma de Mallorca, 4 Almudaina, 27, 149 Body of Jaime II, 150 Cathedral, 134, 143 " treasures of, 147 Consumeros, 46 Customs office, 5 First impression, 4 Grand Hotel, 4, 204, 214, 274 Hotel Barnils, 5, 6 Lonja, the, 56 Markets, 7, 132 Port, 27 Post-office, 129 San Francisco, church of, 85 Social life, 266 Tavern at the port, 32

Palmettos, 160, 238

Palm Sunday, 245

Peak, Our Lady of the, 164

Penitents, masked, 263

Phoenician catacombs, Iviza, 298 " village, 239

Pigs, 134, 181, 183

Plants, the rarer Balearic, 287

Plum pudding, 130

Pollensa, 155 Port of, 157 Town hall of, 165

Port of Palma, 27

Porto Pi, 4, 15, 273, 276, 285

Post-office, Palma, 129

Prices, Majorcan, 7, 43, 44, 112, 155, 168, 170

Puebla, La, 154, 329

Puerto Cristo, 217

Puig Mayor, 100, 105, 244, 245, 249, 256, 257

Queen of the Columns, 236 " of Spain, birthday of, 14

Rain, 10, 92, 203, 271

Ramon Lull, 83

Refuge, Our Lady of the, 209

Refugees, Moorish, 232

Relics, sacred, 147

Rent, house, 19, 250

Road-mending, 252

Roman amphitheatre, 176 " gateway, 169 " graves, 177 " statues, Iviza, 292

Salinas, 323

Saloon accommodation, first, 2, 194, 197 " " second, 180, 194, 197, 202

Salt, shipping, 323

Samphire, 207

San Antonio, Iviza, 314

San Francisco, church of, 85

San Lorenzo, 226

San Luis, Minorca, 195

San Rafael, Iviza, 314

San Roch, Feast of, 213

Sand, George, 12, 70

Santa Catalina, 15, 18

Santa Maria, 62

Santo Domingo, Iviza, 295

Scots visitors, 278

Secoma, 125

Sereno, the, 12

Servants, 276

Shells, 172, 282, 331

Smugglers' cave, 87

Snow, 271

Social life, 266

Sóller, 94, 243 Port of, 96, 257 Fiesta at, 283

Son Españolet, 15, 18, 46, 166, 273

Son Mas, Andraitx, 115

Son Moragues, 82

Son Puigdorfila, 138

Son Rapiña, 138, 273

Son Servera, 230

Sponges, 282

Squire and Lady, 204, 272, 278

Steamer _Ancona_ of Leith, 30 _Balear_, 1, 3 _Cataluña_, 321 _Isla de Menorca_, 197 _Lulio_, 290 _Miramar_, 34, 333 _Monte Toro_, 180 _Vicente Sanz_, 194 _Villa de Sóller_, 97

Sunshine, 270

Talyots, 190

Taula, 192

Taylor, Bayard, 69

Tea, 6, 81, 241

Temple, the white, 76

Terreno, the, 15, 51, 273, 276

Tobacco, 32, 119, 317

Torrentes, 94, 117, 140, 249

Tourists, 28, 281

Tower, Moorish, 173

Town Hall, Pollensa, 165

Train, travelling by, 61, 153

Travellers, commercial, 182

Travelling by diligence, 105, 108, 126, 154

Valldemosa, 69, 80, 260

Vegetable man, our, 25, 50

Vermay, Cape, 238

Vigilante, our, 39, 277

Villa Carlos, Minorca, 198

Votive offerings, 162, 297

Wells, chain (norias), 174, 308, 312, 324

Whitewash, 185

Wild asparagus, 288

Wild flowers, 99, 121, 141, 192, 220, 240, 258, 285, 286, 298

Wind at Minorca, 191

Windmills, 122

Wine shop, 65, 112

Winter climate, ideal, 270

Yachting, 275

Yacht of the Czar, 28

The Gresham Press UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, WOKING AND LONDON.

* * * * *

Transcriber's note:

Times are shown using a period notation e.g. 7.40, these have been left unchanged.

Changed quatro to cuatro in the second repetition of "Onza reals, _cuatro_ centims, dos centims". (Ch. IV Housekeeping.)

Changed jewelry to jewellery in "conjunction with handsome _jewelry_" for consistency with the rest of the book. (Ch. VI THE FAIR AT INCA.)

_En el nombre del Padre, y del Higo, y del Espiritu Santo_ was left unchanged, but this is normally written _En el nombre del Padre, y del =Hijo=, y del Espiritu Santo_. (Ch. VI THE FAIR AT INCA.)

Changed biscochos to bizcochos in "crisply toasted _bizcochos_". (Ch. VIII MIRAMAR.)

Changed 'were' to 'was' in "Even in its natural state it _was_ difficult". (Ch. IX SÓLLER.)

"made his money in Buenos Ayres" was left unchanged, although more commonly known as Buenos Aires. (Ch. XV THE PORT OF ALCUDIA.)

"Muchos gracias, señor." was left unchanged, but this is correctly said - "Muchas gracias, señor." (Ch. XXVI AN IVIZAN SABBATH.)

There is quite a lot of inconsistency in the book with words that are hyphenated or spaced and/or joined. These have been left unchanged.

Likewise, accents and indication of foreign words (using italics) are inconsistent. These have been corrected for placenames without comment; all others have been left unchanged.