Part 7

241. From Pontresina we may walk or drive along a good coach road over the Bernina pass into Italy. At about an hour above the village you would look from the road into the heart of the mountains, the line of vision passing through a valley, in which is couched a glacier of considerable size. Along its back you would trace a medial moraine, and you could hardly fail to notice how the moraine, from a mere narrow streak at first, widens gradually as it descends, until finally it quite covers the lower end of the glacier. Nor is this an effect of perspective; for were you to stand upon the mountain slopes which nourish the glacier, you would see thence also the widening of the streak of rubbish, though the perspective here would tend to narrow the moraine as it retreats downwards.

242. The ice-stream here referred to is the Morteratsch glacier, the end of which is a short hour's walk from the village of Pontresina. We have now to determine its rate of motion and to account for the widening of its medial moraine.

243. In the summer of 1864 Mr. Hirst and myself set out three lines of stakes across the glacier. The first line crossed the ice high up; the second a good distance lower down, and the third lower still. Even the third line, however, was at a considerable distance above the actual snout of the glacier. The daily motion of these three lines was as follows:--

First Line.

Stake 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Inches 8 12 13 13 14 13 12 12 10 7 5

Second Line.

Stake 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Inches 1 4 6 8 10 11 11 11 11 11 11

Third Line.

Stake 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Inches 1 2 4 5 6 6 7 7 5 5 4

244. Compare these lines together. You notice the velocity of the first is greater than that of the second, and the velocity of the second greater than that of the third.

245. The lines were permitted to move down wards for 100 hours, at the end of which time the spaces passed over by the points of swiftest motion of the three lines were as follows:

Maximum Motion in 100 Hours.

First line 56 inches. Second line 45 " Third line 30 "

246. Here then is a demonstration that the upper portions of the Morteratsch glacier are advancing on the lower ones. _In 1871 the motion of a point on the middle of the glacier near its snout was found to be less than two inches a day!_

247. What, then, is the consequence of this swifter march of the upper glacier? Obviously to squeeze this medial moraine longitudinally, and to cause it to spread out laterally. We have here distinctly revealed the cause of the widening of the medial moraine.

248. It has been a question much discussed, whether a glacier is competent to scoop out or deepen a valley through which it moves, and this very Morteratsch glacier has been cited to prove that such is not the case. Observers went to the snout of the glacier, and finding it sensibly quiescent, they concluded that no scooping occurred. But those who contended for the power of glaciers to excavate valleys never stated, or meant to state, that it was the snout of the glacier which did the work. In the Morteratsch glacier the work of excavation, which certainly goes on to a greater or less extent, must be far more effectual high up the valley than at the end of the glacier.

§ 36. _Birth of a Crevasse: Reflections._

249. Preserving the notion that we are working together, we will now enter upon a new field of enquiry. We have wrapped up our chain, and are turning homewards after a hard day's work upon the Glacier du Géant, when under our feet, as if coming from the body of the glacier, an explosion is heard. Somewhat startled, we look enquiringly over the ice. The sound is repeated, several shots being fired in quick succession. They seem sometimes to our right, sometimes to our left, giving the impression that the glacier is breaking all round us. Still nothing is to be seen.

250. We closely scan the ice, and after an hour's strict search we discover the cause of the reports. They announce the birth of a crevasse. Through a pool upon the glacier we notice air bubbles ascending, and find the bottom of the pool crossed by a narrow crack, from which the bubbles issue. Eight and left from this pool we trace the young fissure through long distances. It is sometimes almost too feeble to be seen, and at no place is it wide enough to admit a knife-blade.

251. It is difficult to believe that the formidable fissures among which you and I have so often trodden with awe, could commence in this small way. Such, however, is the case. The great and gaping chasms on and above the ice-falls of the Géant and the Talèfre begin as narrow cracks, which open gradually to crevasses. We are thus taught in an instructive and impressive way that appearances suggestive of very violent action may really be produced by processes so slow as to require refined observations to detect them. In the production of natural phenomena two things always come into play, the _intensity_ of the acting force, and the _time_ during which it acts. Make the intensity great, and the time small, and you have sudden convulsion; but precisely the same apparent effect may be produced by making the intensity small, and the time great. This truth is strikingly illustrated by the Alpine ice-falls and crevasses; and many geological phenomena, which at first sight suggest violent convulsion, may be really produced in the selfsame almost imperceptible way.

§ 37. _Icicles._

252. The crevasses are grandest on the higher névés, where they sometimes appear as long yawning fissures, and sometimes as chasms of irregular outline. A delicate blue light shimmers from them, but this is gradually lost in the darkness of their profounder portions. Over the edges of the chasms, and mostly over the southern edges, hangs a coping of snow, and from this depend like stalactites rows of transparent icicles, 10, 20, 30 feet long. These pendent spears constitute one of the most beautiful features of the higher crevasses.

253. How are they produced? Evidently by the thawing of the snow. But why, when once thawed, should the water freeze again to solid spears? You have seen icicles pendent from a house-eave, which have been manifestly produced by the thawing of the snow upon the roof. If we understand these, we shall also understand the vaster stalactites of the Alpine crevasses.

254. Gathering up such knowledge as we possess, and reflecting upon it patiently, let us found upon it, if we can, a theory of icicles.

255. First, then, you are to know that the _air_ of our atmosphere is hardly heated at all by the rays of the sun, whether visible or invisible. The air is highly transparent to all kinds of rays, and it is only the scanty fraction to which it is _not_ transparent that expend their force in warming it.

256. Not so, however, with the snow on which the sunbeams fall. It absorbs the solar heat, and on a sunny day you may see the summits of the high Alps glistening with the water of liquefaction. The _air_ above and around the mountains may at the same time be many degrees below the freezing point in temperature.

257. You have only to pass from sunshine into shade to prove this. A single step suffices to carry you from a place where the thermometer stands high to one where it stands low; the change being due, not to any difference in the temperature of the _air_, but simply to the withdrawal of the thermometer from the direct action of the solar rays. Nay, without shifting the thermometer at all, by interposing a suitable screen, which cuts off the sun's rays, the coldness of the air may be demonstrated.

258. Look now to the snow upon your house roof. The sun plays upon it, and melts it; the water trickles to the eave and then drops down. If the eave face the sun the water remains water; but if the eave do not face the sun, the drop, before it quits its parent snow, _is already in shadow_. Now the shaded space, as we have learnt, may be below the freezing temperature. If so the drop, instead of falling, congeals, and the rudiment of an icicle is formed. Other drops and driblets succeed, which trickle over the rudiment, congeal upon it in part and _thicken_ it at the root. But a portion of the water reaches the free end of the icicle, hangs from it, and is there congealed before it escapes. The icicle is thus _lengthened_. In the Alps, where the liquefaction is copious and the cold of the shaded crevasse intense, the icicles, though produced in the same way, naturally grow to a greater size. The drainage of the snow after the sun's power is withdrawn also produces icicles.

259. It is interesting and important that you should be able to explain the formation of an icicle; but it is far more important that you should realise the way in which the various threads of what we call Nature are woven together. You cannot fully understand an icicle without first knowing that solar beams powerful enough to fuse the snows and blister the human skin, nay, it might be added, powerful enough, when concentrated, to burn up the human body itself, may pass through the air, and still leave it at an icy temperature.

§ 38. _The Bergschrund._

260. Having cleared away this difficulty, let us turn once more to the crevasses, taking them in the order of their formation. First then above the névé we have the final Alpine peaks and crests, against which the snow is often reared as a steep buttress. We have already learned that both névés and glaciers are moving slowly downwards; but it usually happens that the attachment of the highest portion of the buttress to the rocks is great enough to enable it to hold on while the lower portion breaks away. A very characteristic crevasse is thus formed, called in the German-speaking portion of the Alps a _Bergschrund_. It often surrounds a peak like a fosse, as if to defend it against the assaults of climbers.

261. Look more closely into its formation. Imagine the snow as yet unbroken. Its higher portions cling to the rocks, and move downwards with extreme slowness. But its lower portions, whether from their greater depth and weight, or their less perfect attachment, are compelled to move more quickly. _A pull_ is therefore exerted, tending to separate the lower from the upper snow. For a time this pull is resisted by the cohesion of the névé; but this at length gives way, and a crack is formed exactly across the line in which the pull is exerted. In other words, _a crevasse is formed at right angles to the line of tension_.

§ 39. _Transverse Crevasses._

262. Both on the névé and on the glacier the origin of the crevasses is the same. Through some cause or other the ice is thrown into a state of strain, and as it cannot _stretch_ it _breaks_ across the line of tension. Take for example, the ice-fall of the Géant, or of the Talèfre, above which you know the crevasses yawn terribly. Imagine the névé and the glacier entirely peeled away, so as to expose the surface over which they move. From the Col du Géant we should see this surface falling gently to the place now occupied by the brow of the cascade. Here the surface would fall steeply down to the bed of the present Glacier du Géant, where the slope would become gentle once more.

263. Think of the névé moving over such a surface. It descends from the Col till it reaches the brow just referred to. It crosses the brow, and must bend down to keep upon its bed. Realise clearly what must occur. The surface of the névé is evidently thrown into a state of strain; it breaks and forms a crevasse. Each fresh portion of the névé as it passes the brow is similarly broken, and thus a succession of crevasses is sent down the fall. Between every two chasms is a great transverse ridge. Through local strains upon the fall those ridges are also frequently broken across, towers of ice--_séracs_--being the result. Down the fall both ridges and séracs are borne, the dislocation being augmented during the descent.

264. What must occur at the foot of the fall? Here the slope suddenly lessens in steepness. It is plain that the crevasses must not only cease to open here, but that they must in whole or in part close up. At the summit of the fall, the bending was such as to make the surface convex; at the bottom of the fall the bending renders the surface concave. In the one case we have _strain_, in the other _pressure_. In the one case, therefore, we have the _opening_, and in the other the _closing_ of crevasses. This reasoning corresponds exactly with the facts of observation.

265. Lay bare your arm and stretch it straight. Make two ink dots half an inch or an inch apart, exactly opposite the elbow. Bend your arm, the dots approach each other, and are finally brought together. Let the two dots represent the two sides of a crevasse at the bottom of an ice-fall; the bending of the arm resembles the bending of the ice, and the closing up of the dots resembles the closing of the fissures.

266. The same remarks apply to various portions of the Mer de Glace. At certain places the inclination changes from a gentler to a steeper slope, and on crossing the brow between both the glacier breaks its back. _Transverse crevasses_ are thus formed. There is such a change of inclination opposite to the Angle, and a still greater but similar change at the head of the Glacier des Bois. The consequence is that the Mer de Glace at the former point is impassable, and at the latter the rending and dislocation are such as we have seen and described. Below the Angle, and at the bottom of the Glacier des Bois, the steepness relaxes, the crevasses heal up, and the glacier becomes once more continuous and compact.

§ 40. _Marginal Crevasses._

267. Supposing, then, that we had no changes of inclination, should we have no crevasses? We should certainly have less of them, but they would not wholly disappear. For other circumstances exist to throw the ice into a state of strain, and to determine its fracture. The principal of these is the more rapid movement of the centre of the glacier.

268. Helped by the labours of an eminent man, now dead, the late Mr. Wm. Hopkins, of Cambridge, let us master the explanation of this point together. But the pleasure of mastering it would be enhanced if we could see beforehand the perplexing and delusive appearances accounted for by the explanation. Could my wishes be followed out, I would at this point of our researches carry you off with me to Basel, thence to Thun, thence to Interlaken, thence to Grindelwald, where you would find yourself in the actual presence of the Wetterhorn and the Eiger, with all the greatest peaks of the Bernese Oberland, the Finsteraarhorn, the Schreckhorn, the Monch, the Jungfrau, at hand. At Grindelwald, as we have already learnt, there are two well-known glaciers--the Ober Grindelwald and the Unter Grindelwald glaciers--on the latter of which our observations should commence.

269. Dropping down from the village to the bottom of the valley, we should breast the opposite mountain, and with the great limestone precipices of the Wetterhorn to our left, we should get upon a path which commands a view of the glacier. Here we should see beautiful examples of the opening of crevasses at the summit of a brow, and their closing at the bottom. But the chief point of interest would be the crevasses formed at the _side_ of this glacier--the _marginal crevasses_, as they may be called.

270. We should find the side copiously fissured, even at those places where the centre is compact; and we should particularly notice that the fissures would neither run in the direction of the glacier, nor straight across it, but that they would be _oblique_ to it, enclosing an angle of about 45 degrees with the sides. Starting from the side of the glacier the crevasses would be seen to point _upwards_; that is to say, the ends of the fissures abutting against the bounding mountain would appear to be _dragged down_. Were you less instructed than you now are, I might lay a wager that the aspect of these fissures would cause you to conclude that the centre of the glacier is left behind by the quicker motion of the sides.

271. This indeed was the conclusion drawn by M. Agassiz from this very appearance, before he had measured the motion of the sides and centre of the glacier of the Unteraar. Intimately versed with the treatment of mechanical problems, Mr. Hopkins immediately deduced the obliquity of the lateral crevasses from the quicker flow of the centre. Standing beside the glacier with pencil and note-book in hand, I would at once make the matter clear to you thus.

272. Let A C, in the annexed figure, be one side of the glacier, and B D the other; and let the direction of motion be that indicated by the arrow. Let S T be a transverse slice of the glacier, taken straight across it, say to-day. A few days or weeks hence this slice will have been carried down, and because the centre moves more quickly than the sides it will not remain straight, but will bend into the form S' T'.

273. Supposing T _i_ to be a small square of the original slice near the side of the glacier. In its new position the square will be distorted to the lozenge-shaped figure T' _i'_. Fix your attention upon the diagonal T _i_ of the square; in the lowest position this diagonal, _if the ice could stretch_, would be lengthened to T' _i'_. But the ice does not stretch; it breaks, and we have a crevasse formed at right angles to T' _i'_. The mere inspection of the diagram will assure you that the crevasse will point obliquely _upwards_.

274. Along the whole side of the glacier the quicker movement of the centre produces a similar state of strain; and the consequence is that the sides are copiously cut by those oblique crevasses, even at places where the centre is free from them.

275. It is curious to see at other places the transverse fissures of the centre uniting with those at the sides, so as to form great curved crevasses which stretch across the glacier from side to side. The convexity of the curve is turned _upwards_, as mechanical principles declare it ought to be. (See sketch on opposite page.) But if you were ignorant of those principles, you would never infer from the aspect of these curves the quicker motion of the centre. In landslips, and in the motion of partially indurated mud, you may sometimes notice appearances similar to those exhibited by the ice.

§ 41. _Longitudinal Crevasses._

276. We have thus unravelled the origin of both transverse and marginal crevasses. But where a glacier issues from a steep and narrow defile upon a comparatively level plain which allows it room to expand laterally, its motion is in part arrested, and the level portion has to bear the thrust of the steeper portions behind. Here the line of thrust is in the direction of the glacier, while the direction at right angles to this is one of tension. Across this latter the glacier breaks, and _longitudinal crevasses_ are formed.

277. Examples of this kind of crevasse are furnished by the lower part of the Glacier of the Rhone, when looked down upon from the Grimsel Pass, or from any commanding point on the flanking mountains.

§ 42. _Crevasses in relation to Curvature of Glacier._

278. One point in addition remains to be discussed, and your present knowledge will enable you to master it in a moment. You remember at an early period of OUT researches that we crossed the Mer de Glace from the Chapeau side to the Montanvert side. I then desired you to notice that the Chapeau side of the glacier was more fissured than either the centre or the Montanvert side (75). Why should this be so? Knowing as we now do that the Chapeau side of the glacier moves more quickly than the other; that the point of maximum motion does not lie on the centre but far east of it, we are prepared to answer this question in a perfectly satisfactory manner.

279. Let A B and C D, in the diagram opposite, represent the two curved sides of the Mer de Glace at the Montanvert, and let _m n_ be a straight line across the glacier. Let _o_ be the point of maximum motion. The mechanical state of the two sides of the glacier may be thus made plain. Supposing the line _m n_ to be a straight elastic string with its ends fixed; let it be grasped firmly at the point o by the finger and thumb, and drawn to _o'_, keeping the distance between _o'_ and the side C D constant. Here the length, _n o_ of the string would have stretched to _n o'_, and the length _m o_ to _m o'_ and you see plainly that the stretching of the short line, in comparison with its length, is greater than that of the long line in comparison with its length. In other words, the strain upon _n o'_ is greater than that upon _m o'_; so that if one of them were to break under the strain, it would be the short one.

280. These two lines represent the conditions of strain upon the two sides of the glacier. The sides are held back, and the centre tries to move on, a strain being thus set up between the centre and sides. But the displacement of the point of maximum motion through the curvature of the valley makes the strain upon the eastern ice greater than that upon the western. The eastern side of the glacier is therefore more crevassed than the western.

281. Here indeed resides the difficulty of getting along the eastern side of the Mer de Glace: a difficulty which was one reason for our crossing the glacier opposite to the Montanvert. There are two convex sweeps on the eastern side to one on the western side, hence on the whole the eastern side of the Mer de Glace is most riven.

§ 43. _Moraine-ridges, Glacier Tables, and Sand-Cones._

282. When you and I first crossed the Mer de Glace from Trélaporte to the Couvercle, we found that the stripes of rocks and rubbish which constituted the medial moraines were ridges raised above the general level of the glacier to a height at some places of twenty or thirty feet. On examining these ridges we found the rubbish to be superficial, and that it rested upon a great spine of ice which ran along the back of the glacier. By what means has this ridge of ice been raised?

283. Most boys have read the story of Dr. Franklin's placing bits of cloth of various colours upon snow on a sunny day. The bits of cloth sank in the snow, the dark ones most.

284. Consider this experiment. The sun's rays first of all fall upon the upper surface of the cloth and warm it. The heat is then conducted through the cloth to the under surface, and the under surface passes it on to the snow, which is finally liquefied by the heat. It is quite manifest that the quantity of snow melted will altogether depend upon the amount of heat sent from the upper to the under surface of the cloth.

285. Now cloth is what is called a bad conductor. It does not permit heat to travel freely through it. But where it has merely to pass through the thickness of a single bit of cloth, a good quantity of the heat gets through. But if you double or treble or quintuple the thickness of the cloth; or, what is easier, if you put several pieces one upon the other, you come at length to a point where no sensible amount of heat could get through from the upper to the under surface.

286. What must occur if such a thick piece, or such a series of pieces of cloth, were placed upon snow on which a strong sun is falling? The snow round the cloth is melted, but that underneath the cloth is protected. If the action continue long enough the inevitable result will be, that the level of the snow all round the cloth will sink, and the cloth will be left behind perched upon an eminence of snow.