Chapter 2

Although the western white pine is not a common tree in the park, it is often noticed on account of its abundance of slender, pendant cones, 6 to 10 inches long. They mature every two years and shed their seed early in September. The seed are provided with long wings and are often carried by the wind for a great distance from the parent tree.

The wood is light, soft, free from pitch, and the most valuable of any of the pines of the Cascades. It is used for interior finish, pattern making, and other purposes. The supply of this tree is so limited that it is not of great commercial importance in the Mount Rainier region.

AMABILIS FIR (ABIES AMABILIS).[2]

Amabilis fir (figs. 9 and 10) ranges from southern Alaska to Oregon. It is abundant in the park at elevations from 2,500 to 5,000 feet on level bench lands, and gentle slopes with a northern exposure. It is rarely found in unmixed stands, but is usually associated with western hemlock, Douglas fir, and noble fir. The largest trees are 150 to 180 feet high and 3 to 5 feet in diameter. In dense forests the stem is free from branches for 50 to 100 feet.

At altitudes over 4,000 feet, small amabilis firs often occur in clusters and open groves. The trunk is covered with branches which grow to the ground, turning downward and outward in long graceful curves, admirably adapted to withstand the pressure of the frozen snow. The foliage is a deep and brilliant green, forming a strong contrast to the dark-purple cones. The seeds ripen each year early in October. Like the seed of the other alpine species of trees that grow in the cold and humid climate of the high Cascades, they soon lose their vitality when stored in dry places. The amabilis fir is grown in Europe as an ornamental tree. Under cultivation it loses much of the natural grace and beauty which it acquired in adapting itself to the deep snows and long winters of its native environment.

The bark is thin and the tree is easily killed by fire. The wood is straw colored, compact, and straight grained. It is not strong and splits easily. It is sold to some extent under the name of larch or mixed with inferior grades of fir and hemlock. The lumber is of little value commercially.

NOBLE FIR (ABIES NOBILIS).

The noble fir (figs. 11 and 12) is a common mountain tree in the western parts of Washington and Oregon. Like amabilis fir, it is usually called larch by lumbermen. About Mount Rainier it grows at elevations of from 3,500 to 5,000 feet in dense stands associated with amabilis fir, western hemlock, and Douglas fir. The noble fir avoids steep side hills and exposed situations. In moist soils on flats and gentle slopes it often reaches a height of from 150 to 200 feet. The tall and upright trunk supports a rounded crown of bluish green foliage, which is very noticeable among the purer green leaves of its associates. The branches are short, thick, and crowded with stiff, flattened leaves, which turn upward and outward. The light-green bract-covered cones are sometimes 6 inches long and nearly 3 inches thick. They ripen early in September. Seed is borne every year, although in some seasons it is much more abundant than in others.

The wood is strong, close grained, and elastic. It is used for lumber and particularly for inside finishing. The noble fir is a slow-growing and long-lived tree. Old trees in mixed forests are easily distinguished from the associated species by the ashy-brown outer bark broken into large irregular plates.

ALPINE FIR (ABIES LASIOCARPA).[3]

The alpine fir (fig. 13) ranges from Alaska to New Mexico. It is a common tree in the park at elevations above 4,500 feet. It is a tree of the high mountains and with the white bark pine and the mountain hemlock, is found up to the limit of arborescent life. It demands moisture and is generally restricted to regions of deep snowfall.

The alpine fir occurs in unmixed stands, but is often associated with the mountain hemlock. At the lower levels of its range it is a fair-sized tree 50 or 60 feet high. The crown of deep-green foliage is broad at the base and tapers to the top, where it terminates in a slender, pointed tip. At its upper limit it becomes a stunted shrub, with wide extended branches resting on the ground.

The alpine fir bears upright clusters of deep-purple cones. It seeds sparingly each year. The seasons of heavy seed production occur at intervals of three or four years. The wood is soft and splits easily. It is of no commercial value. The tree is easily killed by fire, which blisters the thin bark and frequently springs into the drooping lower branches.

GRAND FIR (ABIES GRANDIS.)[4]

The grand fir (fig. 14), like several other species, is generally given the name of white fir on account of its smooth, light-colored bark. It is a common tree in the river bottoms from British Columbia south to northern California. In the Mount Rainier National Park it occurs up to 4,000 feet. The grand fir is a moisture-loving tree and is usually found firmly rooted in deep alluvial bottom lands along the banks of streams. With the Douglas fir, hemlock, and red cedar it forms the dense forest characteristic of the lower mountain valleys.

In favorable conditions the grand fir grows to a height of from 100 to 200 feet and is a noble and stately tree. The trunk tapers rapidly and bears a rounded pyramidal crown. In dense forests the trunk is clear for half its height, but where the trees stand in the open it carries its branches nearly to the ground. The leaves are a bright and shining green. The large light-green cones mature early in the fall. The wood is soft and very heavy before it is seasoned. It rots in a very short time when laid on the ground. When dry it is white, coarse-grained, light, and odorous. It is used for interior finish and for crates and packing boxes, but is of little value commercially.

ENGELMANN SPRUCE (PICEA ENGELMANNI).

The Engelmann spruce (fig. 15) is a mountain tree ranging from British Columbia to Arizona and New Mexico. It is common along the summit and on the east side of the Cascade Range and occurs on the northeastern and eastern slopes of Mount Rainier at elevations of from 3,500 to 6,000 feet.

This tree requires a moist soil and prefers cool northern exposures. Up to 5,000 feet it commonly grows in sheltered basins at the head of canyons and in stream valleys. At its upper limits it is common on flats and depressions and about lakes on level summits. It avoids steep mountain sides and exposed situations.

The Engelmann spruce is easily distinguished from its associates by its stiff, bluish-green pointed leaves, which prick the hand when they are grasped. In the mountain parks it is a handsome tree 50 to 60 feet high. When it stands apart from other trees the lower branches are thick and long and extend to the ground. The crown is very broad at the base, but narrow and spirelike at the top. The Engelmann spruce reaches its best development at low elevations, where it often grows in dense, pure stands. Under these conditions it reaches a height of 100 feet. The bole is straight and free from limbs and the top is short and compact.

The young cones are massed in upright green and purple clusters at the tips of the upper branches. They are notable for the purity and brilliance of their coloring. As they mature they become pendant and fade to a light brown. The seed is produced in abundance nearly every year, although small and seedling trees are not usually numerous.

The wood is soft, white, compact, and even grained. It is free from pitch and odor. It is valuable for boxing, cooperage, and certain kinds of finish. It is also an excellent material for the tops of violins and other stringed instruments. The Engelmann spruce is, however, of little importance as a timber tree on account of its scarcity and the scattered stands in which it grows. It is a long-lived tree unless attacked by fire, to which it is very vulnerable.

YELLOW CYPRESS (CHAMAECYPARIS NOOTKATENSIS).

Yellow cypress (fig. 16) ranges from the seacoast of southern Alaska south to the mountains of Washington and Oregon. It occurs in the park up to the elevation of 7,000 feet. It is common on northern exposures, along streams, and in basins at the head of canyons. It also grows on crests and ridges, where the frequent showers and fogs supply the moisture which it demands. In sheltered localities it grows to a height of 75 or 80 feet, but it is commonly a small tree with, a bent and twisted stem, which, with its pendulous branches, presents a somewhat scrubby appearance. The foliage is green, sometimes with a bluish tinge. It resembles that of the common western red cedar, but the leaves are sharper, more pointed, and rougher to handle. The small, rounded, inconspicuous cones are produced somewhat sparingly. The bark of the young tree is red. On the mature tree it becomes gray and fibrous. The wood is yellow, close grained, and aromatic. Unlike that of the western red cedar, the trunk is usually sound to the center. The wood is used for boat building and cabinetwork. It is very durable.

The yellow cypress grows very slowly, particularly at high elevations. The number of annual rings on trees 15 to 20 inches in diameter indicate that they are over 200 years old.

LODGEPOLE PINE (PINUS CONTORTA).

Lodgepole pine (fig. 17) is widely distributed from Alaska to Lower California and eastward through the Rockies to Dakota and Colorado. It occurs sparingly in the park up to 5,000 feet above sea level. It adapts itself easily to the different conditions of soil, moisture, and exposure.

This tree varies greatly in the different regions where it is found. About Mount Rainier it does not often exceed 20 to 40 feet in height and is often a much smaller tree. It produces cones at the age of 5 to 7 years. The foliage is a yellowish green. At high elevations the leaves have a peculiar whorled appearance which gives it a different aspect from that of the other pines. The short, heavily limbed trunk bears no resemblance to the tall and slender shaft of the lodgepole pine of the Rocky Mountains. The root system is shallow and the tree is easily fire killed. The wood of the variety which grows in the park is of no commercial value.

MOUNTAIN HEMLOCK (TSUGA MERTENSIANA).

The mountain hemlock (figs. 18, 19, and 20) is found on the Pacific coast from the Sierras of California to the northern part of Alaska where it grows at sea level. On Mount Rainier it occurs at altitudes of from 3,500 to 7,500 feet. It forms dense forests under 4,500 feet, where it is often a fair-sized tree 50 to 90 feet high. With the ascent of the mountain it diminishes in height and the branches become gnarled and twisted. Near timber line the trunk is dwarfed and bent at the base and the crown becomes a flattened mass of branches lying close to the ground (fig. 20).

The mountain hemlock is abundant on high, rocky ridges, but the best stands are on cool, moist soil at the heads of ravines, on flats, and on gentle slopes with a northern exposure.

This tree seeds every year. In good seed years the upper branches are laden with a profusion of beautiful, deep-purple cones, often in such abundance as to bend down the branchlets with their weight. The reproduction is slow. In the high mountains the trees are buried in snow from October to late in June, and the growing season is very short.

WHITE-BARK PINE (PINUS ALBICAULIS).

The white-bark pine (fig. 21) grows close to timber line in the mountains of the Pacific coast from British Columbia to southern California. In the Canadian Rockies it extends north to the fifty-third parallel. It is the most alpine of all the pines. Its lower limit on Mount Rainier is about 5,000 feet above sea level. In sheltered places where the soil is deep the trees are sometimes 30 to 40 feet high and 20 inches in diameter. The trunks are free from limbs for 8 or 10 feet. The outer bark, from which the tree derives its name, consists of thin, light-gray scales.

As the white-bark pine advances up the mountain its habit changes rapidly. The stem shortens and becomes gnarled and twisted. The tough, flexible branches reach the ground and spread over it to a great distance from the tree. On rocky summits and the bleak crests of wind-swept ridges the twisted trunk and branches are quite prostrate and the crown is a dense flattened mass of foliage.

The roots of the tree are deep, long, and tenacious. They spread wide and deep and cling so firmly to the rocks that the tree is rarely overthrown by the violent winds that sweep over the mountain.

The thick, purple cones require two years to mature. They ripen early in September and produce chocolate-brown seeds a little larger than a grain of corn. They are much relished by the Klickitat Indians, who go to considerable pains to secure them. The wood is close grained and resinous. It makes excellent fuel for the camp fires of sheep herders and mountain travelers.

WESTERN YEW (TAXUS BREVIFOLIA).[5]

The western yew is found from southern Alaska to northern California. It occurs in the park up to 4,000 feet, growing in rich, gravelly soil on moist flats and benches and in deep ravines. It is a small branching tree, rarely over 20 feet high. The bark is purple or reddish brown. The branches extend almost to the ground. It bears a small, bright, amber-red berry.

The dark-brown or red heartwood is very tough, hard and heavy. It takes a fine polish and is used for fancy cabinetwork. The Indians use it for spear handles, bows, and fishhooks.

DECIDUOUS TREES.

The silva of the Western Cascades is rich in evergreens remarkable for their size and beauty. The deciduous trees are few and insignificant. The forests of the park are almost wholly coniferous. Vine maple and willow are found as undergrowth. On the margins of rivers there are occasional groves of alders and cottonwoods. The lighter hues of the branching trunks and the changing tints of the foliage in these patches of broad-leaved woodland present a pleasing diversity to the evergreen forest.

Broadleaf maple (_Acer macrophyllum_) (fig. 22), the largest of the Pacific coast maples, ranges from Alaska to southern California. Near sea level it often attains a height of 50 or 60 feet. In the park it is a short-stemmed, branching tree, occasionally found on the borders of streams. It grows at elevations under 3,000 feet.

Vine maple (_Acer circinatum_) (fig. 23) is abundant from British Columbia to northern California. On rich river bottoms it is sometimes 15 to 20 feet high and 6 inches in diameter. In the park it is usually a bush or low shrub with a bent and curiously crooked stem, growing along streams and as undergrowth in the forest. It is very common up to 3,000 feet. In autumn the leaves are a bright scarlet. The wood is tough and elastic and makes a hot and lasting fire.

Red alder (_Alnus oregona_) (fig. 24) occurs from Alaska to southern California. It is common about Mount Rainier, in river bottoms, on the banks of large streams, and in swampy places. It usually grows to a height of 30 or 40 feet. The bark varies from nearly white to light gray. It is the most abundant of all the deciduous trees in the park.

Black cottonwood (_Populus trichocarpa_) (fig. 25) is common from Alaska to southern California. It is occasionally found in the park up to 4,000 feet. It grows along streams and on sandy river bottoms often associated with the alder. The leaves are almost always in motion, very gentle winds being sufficient to make them twinkle and turn.

The wood is soft, but tough and compact. It is used for staves, woodenware, wood pulp, trunks, barrels, and for drawer bottoms.

FOOTNOTES

[1] This species is known as arbor vitæ in Glacier Park.

[2] This species is known as silver fir in Crater Lake Park.

[3] This species is known as balsam in Glacier and Yellowstone Parks.

[4] This species is known as silver fir in Yellowstone and Glacier Parks.

[5] This species is known as Oregon yew in Crater Lake National Park and as yew in Yellowstone and Glacier Parks.

INDEX TO SPECIES DESCRIBED.

[Roman numerals indicate pages containing descriptions; italic numerals indicate pages containing illustrations.]

_Abies amabilis_ 15-16, _15_, _16_ _grandis_ 20, _21_ _lasiocarpa_ 19-20, _19_ _nobilis_ 17-19, _17_, _18_

_Acer circinatum_ 30, _30_ _macrophyllum_ 29, _29_

Alder, red (_Alnus oregona_) 30, _31_

_Alnus oregona_ 30, _31_

Alpine fir (_Abies lasiocarpa_) 19-20, _19_

Amabilis fir (_Abies amabilis_) 15-16, _15_, _16_

Arbor vitæ. _See_ Western red cedar.

Balsam. _See_ Alpine fir.

Black cottonwood (_Populus trichocarpa_) 30-32, _31_

Broadleaf maple (_Acer macrophyllum_) 29, _29_

Cedar, western red (_Thuja plicata_) 9-11, _10_

_Chamaecyparis nootkatensis_ 23-24, _23_

Cottonwood, black (_Populus trichocarpa_) 30-32, _31_

Cypress, yellow (_Chamaecyparis nootkatensis_) 23-24, _23_

Douglas fir (_Pseudotsuga taxifolia_) 6-8, _7_, _8_, _9_, _10_, _12_, _13_

Engelmann spruce (_Picea engelmanni_) 20-23, _22_

Fir, alpine (_Abies lasiocarpa_) 19-20, _19_ amabilis (_Abies amabilis_) 15-16, _15_, _16_ Douglas (_Pseudotsuga taxifolia_) 6-8, _7_, _8_, _9_, _10_, _12_, _13_ grand (_Abies grandis_) 20, _21_ noble (_Abies nobilis_) 17-19, _17_, _18_ silver. _See_ Fir, amabilis; Fir, grand.

Grand fir (_Abies grandis_) 20, _21_

Hemlock, mountain (_Tsuga mertensiana_) 25-27, _25_, _26_, _27_ western (_Tsuga heterophylla_) 11-13, _12_, _13_, _16_

Larch. _See_ Noble fir; Amabilis fir.

Lodgepole pine (_Pinus contorta_) 24-25, _24_

Maple, broadleaf (_Acer macrophyllum_) 29, _29_ vine (_Acer circinatum_) 30, _30_

Mountain hemlock (_Tsuga mertensiana_) 25-27, _25_, _26_, _27_

Noble fir (_Abies nobilis_) 17-19, _17_, _18_

Oregon yew. _See_ Western yew.

_Picea engelmanni_ 20-23, _22_

Pine, lodgepole (_Pinus contorta_) 24-25, _24_ western white (_Pinus monticola_) 13-15, _14_ white-bark (_Pinus albicaulis_) 27-28, _28_

_Pinus albicaulis_ 27-28, _28_ _contorta_ 24-25, _24_ _monticola_ 13-15, _14_

_Populus trichocarpa_ 30-32, _31_

_Pseudotsuga taxifolia_ 6-8, _7_, _8_, _9_, _10_, _12_, _13_

Red alder (_Alnus oregona_) 30, _31_ cedar, western (_Thuja plicata_) 9-11, _10_

Silver fir. _See_ Amabilis fir; Grand fir.

Spruce, Engelmann (_Picea engelmanni_) 20-23, _22_

_Taxus brevifolia_ 28-29

_Thuja plicata_ 9-11, _10_

_Tsuga heterophylla_ 11-13, _12_, _13_, _16_ _mertensiana_ 25-27, _25_, _26_, _27_

Vine maple (_Acer circinatum_) 30, _30_

Western hemlock (_Tsuga heterophylla_) 11-13, _12_, _13_, _16_ red cedar (_Thuja plicata_) 9-11, _10_ white pine (_Pinus monticola_) 13-15, _14_ yew (_Taxus brevifolia_) 28-29

White-bark pine (_Pinus albicaulis_) 27-28, _28_

White pine, western (_Pinus monticola_) 13-15, _14_

Yellow cypress (_Chamaecyparis nootkatensis_) 23-24, _23_

Yew, Oregon. _See_ Yew, western. western (_Taxus brevifolia_) 28-29