Part 4

Wipe the meat, remove carefully all skin and fat, as these impart a rank flavour to mutton broth. Cut the meat into small pieces, or put it through a food chopper. Cover the meat and bones with the water, add the salt, and when boiling put them into a cooker for from nine to twelve hours. If barley is used, soak it over night and cook it in a small pail or pan set into or over the broth in the same cooker-pail. When broth and barley are both boiling, put the pails together and slip them into the cooker. Rice would be over cooked if treated in this way, and should be cooked in the strained broth, or separately, for one hour in the cooker. When the broth is done, strain it and remove every particle of fat as directed on page 59.

Consommé

3 lbs. lower part of round or shoulder of beef 1 lb. marrow bone 3 lbs. knuckle of veal 1 qt. chicken stock ¹⁄₃ cup carrot ¹⁄₃ cup turnip ¹⁄₃ cup celery ¹⁄₃ cup onion 2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon peppercorns 1 teaspoon shaved lemon rind 3 sprigs thyme 1 sprig marjoram 2 sprigs parsley ¹⁄₂ bay leaf 3 qts. cold water

Prepare the meat as directed for making brown stock, using the marrow fat to brown half of the meat. Soak the raw meat and bone in the cold water while browning the remaining meat and preparing the vegetables and seasonings. Prepare the vegetables as directed for making soup stock, and brown them in the butter. Bring all to a boil together, reserving the chicken stock. Boil for ten minutes, and put it into the cooker for from nine to twelve hours. Strain this stock through a wire strainer, add the chicken stock, and, if it is not seasoned sufficiently, add what seasoning it needs. Cool it as rapidly as possible, and when cold, clear it according to the directions on page 59.

It is served, usually, with custard cut into fancy shapes; or with noodles, macaroni, or other Italian pastes, which are first cooked as directed on page 143; or with delicate vegetables, such as peas or string beans, or other vegetables cut into fancy shapes; or with cooked chicken, cut in dice, and green peas. A poached egg is sometimes served in each plate of soup.

Serves sixteen or twenty persons.

Mock Turtle Soup No. 1

1 calf’s head 6 cloves 8 peppercorns 6 allspice berries 2 sprigs thyme ¹⁄₃ cup sliced onion ¹⁄₃ cup carrot cut in dice 1¹⁄₂ teaspoons salt 2 cups brown stock ¹⁄₄ cup butter ¹⁄₂ cup flour 1 cup stewed tomatoes, strained Juice ¹⁄₂ lemon Madeira wine

Clean and wash the calf’s head, reserving the tongue and brains to use for some other dish. Soak it for one hour in enough cold water to cover it. Boil it in a covered pail for twenty minutes with three quarts of salted water and the vegetables and seasoning, and put it into the cooker for from nine to twelve hours. Remove the head; cut off the face meat and reserve it; boil the stock until it is reduced to one quart. Strain and remove the fat from it as directed on page 59; or cool it, and remove the hard fat. Melt the butter, add the flour and stir it until it is well browned; then add the brown stock, one-half at a time, stirring it constantly, and allowing the mixture to boil before adding the second cupful of liquid. To this add the head stock, tomato, one cupful of the face meat cut in dice, and the lemon juice. Simmer for five minutes. Just before serving it add Madeira wine to taste, more salt and pepper, if desirable, custard cut in dice, and egg balls or forcemeat balls. If the soup is prepared, as it may be, some time before it is to be served, slip the pail into the cooker until time for serving. If kept many hours it will need to be reheated.

Mock Turtle Soup No. 2

1 calf’s or lamb’s liver 1 calf’s heart 1 knuckle of veal Water to cover (about 2 qts.) ¹⁄₃ cup onion ¹⁄₃ cup turnip ¹⁄₃ cup celery 4 cloves 1 teaspoon peppercorns 2 teaspoons salt 1 bay leaf 4 yolks of hard-cooked eggs ¹⁄₂ lemon Madeira wine

Wash the meat, cover it with cold water in a cooker-pail. Let it stand in a cold place while the vegetables are being prepared. Wash the vegetables and cut them in small pieces. Put them and the seasonings with the meat, bring all to a boil, and boil it for ten minutes. Put it into a cooker for nine hours or more. Strain it, and add to it one cupful of the heart and liver meat cut into small dice. Pour it into a tureen in which the lemon and the egg yolks, cut in quarters, have been placed. Add Madeira wine to taste. The remaining heart and liver may be used for stew or hash.

Serves ten or eleven persons.

Vegetable Soup with Stock

2 qts. brown stock ¹⁄₂ cup turnip ¹⁄₂ cup carrot ¹⁄₂ cup celery ¹⁄₂ cup cabbage ¹⁄₄ cup onion ¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons rice or barley

Wash and pare the vegetables. Put all but the celery through a coarse food chopper. Cut the celery in fine pieces. Boil all the ingredients together hard for one minute. Put them into a cooker for three hours or more. If barley is used, soak it over night in cold water and boil it till soft; or cook it in the cooker with boiling salted water for five or six hours.

Cream of Celery Soup

2 cups white stock 3 cups celery, cut small 1 cup water 1 small onion, sliced 2 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour 2 cups hot milk 1 cup hot cream 1 teaspoon salt ¹⁄₈ teaspoon pepper

Cook the first four ingredients together in a cooker for three hours or more. Rub them through a sieve; bind the soup with the butter and flour, as directed on page 59, and add the milk, cream, and seasonings.

Serves six or eight persons.

Asparagus Soup

3 cups white stock, or 3 cups water in which asparagus has cooked 1 can asparagus, or 1 pt. cooked asparagus ¹⁄₄ cup butter ¹⁄₄ cup flour 2 cups hot milk ¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt ¹⁄₈ teaspoon pepper 1 slice onion

If canned asparagus is used, drain and rinse it. Cut off the tips about an inch long, and reserve them. Put the stalks of asparagus, stock or asparagus water and onion into a cooker-pail. When boiling, put them into a cooker for two and one-half hours or more. Rub through a sieve, bind it with the butter and flour, as directed on page 59, and add the remaining ingredients and the tips.

Serves six or seven persons.

Tomato Soup with Stock

1 qt. brown stock 1 can or 1 qt. tomatoes 1 onion 4 tablespoons butter ¹⁄₃ cup flour 1¹⁄₂ teaspoons salt

Cook the first three ingredients for one hour or more in the cooker. Rub through a strainer, bind it with the butter and flour, as directed on page 59, and add the salt. Or bind the soup before putting it into the cooker, and strain it just before serving.

Serves eight or ten persons.

Creole Soup

1 qt. brown stock 1 pt. tomatoes 3 tablespoons chopped green sweet peppers 2 tablespoons chopped onion ¹⁄₄ cup butter ¹⁄₃ cup flour ³⁄₄ teaspoon salt Few grains of cayenne 2 tablespoons grated horseradish 1 teaspoon vinegar ¹⁄₄ cup macaroni rings

Cook the pepper and onion in the butter for five minutes, add the flour, then the stock and tomatoes gradually, and cook all in the cooker for one hour or more. Rub it through a sieve, and add the remaining ingredients. The macaroni rings are made by cutting cooked macaroni into very short lengths. Do not soak macaroni for making rings.

Serves six or eight persons.

Ox Tail Soup

1 small ox tail 1¹⁄₂ qts. brown stock ¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt Few grains of cayenne 2 tablespoons butter ¹⁄₄ cup Madeira wine 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon lemon juice Flour

Cut the ox tail into small pieces, wash it, drain it, and sprinkle it with the salt, pepper, and flour. Brown it in the butter. Add it to the stock with the vegetables, which have been cut small or with French vegetable cutters. Put it into the cooker for two hours or more. Add the seasonings and lemon juice.

Serves six or eight persons.

Julienne Soup

1 qt. brown stock ¹⁄₄ cup carrot 2 tablespoons peas 2 tablespoons string beans ¹⁄₄ cup turnip

Clarify the stock and add the cooked beans and peas and the carrot and turnip, which have been cut into thin strips one and one-half inches long and cooked for two hours in the cooker. When boiling hot, serve it.

Serves four or five persons.

Macaroni Soup

1 qt. brown stock ¹⁄₄ cup macaroni rings

Cook the macaroni in boiling salted water for two hours in the cooker. Drain it in a colander. Cut it into very short lengths to make rings. Heat them in the stock.

SOUPS MADE WITHOUT STOCK

Vegetable Soup

¹⁄₃ cup carrot ¹⁄₃ cup turnip ¹⁄₂ cup celery ¹⁄₂ cup onion 1¹⁄₂ cups potato 1 pt. tomatoes 5 tablespoons butter ¹⁄₂ tablespoon parsley 2 teaspoons salt ¹⁄₄ teaspoon pepper 1 qt. water

Wash the vegetables, scrape the carrot, pare the turnip, potatoes, and onions, remove the leaves and strings from the celery, and cut the vegetables in small pieces, or put all except the potatoes and celery through a coarse food chopper. Measure the vegetables after they are prepared. Put them all, except the potatoes and parsley, into a frying pan with the butter, and cook them for ten minutes; add the potatoes and cook them for two minutes more, then put all the ingredients, except the parsley, together in a cooker-pail, and when they are boiling put them into a cooker for three hours or more. Add the parsley just before serving. “Left-over” vegetables, in pieces, may be added, in place of an equal measure of any of the first five given.

Serves six or eight persons.

Bean Soup

1 pt. beans 2 qts. water or stock 1 onion ¹⁄₂ lb. lean, raw beef, if stock is not used 2 tablespoons Chili sauce 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 2¹⁄₂ teaspoons salt ¹⁄₄ teaspoon pepper 2 stalks celery

Wash and soak the beans over night, cut the meat small, and pan-broil the pieces in a dry, hot frying pan till brown. Put all the ingredients except the butter and flour into a cooker-pail, and when they are boiling put them into a cooker for from nine to twelve hours. Rub the soup through a strainer, and bind it.

Serves eight or ten people.

Black Bean Soup

1 pt. black beans 2 qts. water 1 small onion 2 stalks celery, or ¹⁄₄ teaspoon celery salt 2 teaspoons salt ¹⁄₈ teaspoon pepper ¹⁄₄ teaspoon mustard Cayenne 3 tablespoons butter 1¹⁄₂ tablespoons flour 2 hard-cooked eggs 1 lemon

Soak the beans over night, drain them and add the two quarts of water. Cook the onion in one-half of the butter; add onion and celery to the beans, and, when boiling, put them into a cooker for from eight to twelve hours. Rub the soup through a strainer, add the seasonings, bind it, and when it has boiled for five minutes pour it over the sliced eggs and lemon in a soup tureen.

Serves eight or ten persons.

Tomato Soup

1 can tomatoes, or 1 qt. raw tomatoes 1 pt. water 12 peppercorns 1 small bay leaf 4 cloves 1 slice onion 2 teaspoons salt ¹⁄₈ teaspoon soda 2 teaspoons sugar 2 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour

Cook the first six ingredients together in a cooker for one hour or more. Strain, add the salt and soda, and bind it. If it is not to be served at once it may stand in the cooker, to keep hot, for an indefinite period.

Serves six or seven persons.

Purée of Lima Beans

1 cup dried lima beans 3 pts. water 2 slices onion 2 slices turnip 1 cup cream or milk 4 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 2 teaspoons salt ¹⁄₄ teaspoon pepper

Wash the beans and soak them over night. Drain them, and, when boiling, cook them with the prepared onion and turnip and the water in a cooker for four hours or more. Rub this through a strainer, add the seasoning and cream or milk, and bind it.

Serves seven or nine persons.

Baked Bean Soup

3 cups cold baked beans 3 pints water 2 slices onion 2 stalks celery 1¹⁄₂ cups tomato 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon Chili sauce 1 teaspoon salt ¹⁄₈ teaspoon pepper

Cook the first five ingredients in a cooker for three hours or more, rub them through a strainer, bind this with the butter and flour, as directed on page 59, and add the seasonings.

Serves eight or ten persons.

Green Pea Soup

1 can marrowfat peas, or 1 pt. shelled peas 2 teaspoons sugar 1 pt. water 1 pt. milk 1 slice onion 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt ¹⁄₆ teaspoon pepper

If fresh peas are used take those which are too old to be good to serve as a vegetable. If canned peas are used, drain and rinse them, add the sugar, water, and onion, and, when boiling, put them into a cooker for two hours or more. Rub them through a strainer, add the hot milk and seasoning and bind the soup with the butter and flour, as directed on page 59.

Bean and pea soups are very nourishing and should not be followed by a rich, hearty meal.

Serves five or six persons.

Potato Soup

3 potatoes 1 pt. milk 1 pt. water 2 slices onion 4 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1¹⁄₂ teaspoons salt ¹⁄₄ teaspoon celery salt ¹⁄₈ teaspoon pepper Cayenne 1 teaspoon chopped parsley

Scrub and pare the potatoes and cut them into small pieces. Cook them in a cooker with the water and onion for one and one-half hours or more, standing the pail or pan in a larger cooker-pail of boiling water. Rub the soup through a sieve, bind it, and add the seasoning.

Serves five or six persons.

Fish Chowder

4 lbs. cod, haddock, or other firm white fish 4 cups potatoes (in ³⁄₄ inch dice) 1 onion, sliced 4 cups scalded milk 1¹⁄₂ inch cube fat salt pork 1 tablespoon salt ¹⁄₈ teaspoon pepper 3 tablespoons butter ²⁄₃ cup oyster crackers

Skin the fish (see page 82), cut the flesh into two-inch pieces, put the head, tail, and bones into a small cooker-pail or pan, add two cups of cold water and bring it to a boil. Set this into a larger cooker-pail of boiling water to which one teaspoonful of salt has been added for each quart of water. Put the potatoes in this lower pail and, when boiling, cook all in the cooker for one hour.

Cut the pork into small pieces, try out the fat in a frying-pan and fry the onion in it. When the fish and potatoes are cooked, drain off the fish-liquor, add all the ingredients except the milk and crackers to it, bring it to a boil and place it in the cooker for one-half hour. Add the milk and pour the chowder over the crackers in a tureen.

Serves twelve or sixteen persons.

Connecticut Chowder

Make this in the same manner as fish chowder, substituting two and one-half cups of stewed or canned tomatoes for the milk. The tomatoes may be added to the other ingredients when they are put together. If desired, crumble the crackers and add them just before serving.

Serves ten or twelve persons.

Clam Chowder

¹⁄₂ pk. clams in the shell or 1 qt. clams 1 qt. potatoes, cut in ³⁄₄ inch dice 1 cup water 1¹⁄₂ inch cube fat salt pork 1 tablespoon salt ¹⁄₈ teaspoon pepper 4 tablespoons butter 1 qt. scalding hot milk, or 6 or 8 soda crackers, broken or crumbled 2¹⁄₂ cups stewed tomatoes

Wash the clams in a strainer, pick them over, to see that there are no bits of shell with them, and cut off the soft parts. Chop the hard parts or cut them into small pieces. Cut the pork into pieces, try out the fat, and fry the onion in it. Put all the ingredients together, except the crackers and the milk, if that be used, into a cooker-pail. Bring them to a boil and put them into the cooker for from one to two hours. Reheat the soup and add the milk and crackers.

Serves ten to sixteen persons.

Split-pea Soup

1 pt. split peas 1 soup bone (2 lbs.) 2 qts. cold water 2³⁄₄ teaspoons salt ¹⁄₄ teaspoon pepper

Soak the peas over night and drain them. Wash the bone, boil it for ten minutes in the water and skim it, add the peas and seasoning, bring all to a boil and put it into the cooker for four hours or more. Take out the bone and serve the soup without straining it. The peas must be cooked until they fall to pieces easily when well beaten. If desired, the meat may be taken from the bone, cut into small pieces and served in the soup.

Oyster or Clam Stew

1 qt. oysters or clams 1 qt. milk ¹⁄₄ cup butter 1¹⁄₂ tablespoons salt ¹⁄₆ teaspoon pepper

Heat the milk till it boils. Heat the oysters or clams in their liquor which has been strained through cheese-cloth. Add the pepper and the hot milk and put the stew at once into a cooker for one-half hour or more. Oysters will keep for some hours without curdling if they do not boil after the milk is added and if the salt is put in just before serving. It will be safer to keep the clams and milk separate while in the cooker and combine them just before serving. Less salt will be needed for clams than for oysters.

SOUP GARNISHES

Noodles

1 egg ¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt Flour to make a stiff dough

Beat the egg until it is evenly mixed, add a little flour, through which the salt has been mixed. Gradually add more flour until a dough is made that can be rolled out very thin. Knead it a few minutes, then roll it as thin as possible. Let it stand for fifteen or twenty minutes covered with a towel, then roll it like jelly-roll and cut, from the end of the roll, very narrow slices. Unroll these strips and lay them on a board, covered lightly with a towel or clean cloth, to dry. When perfectly dry they are ready to use, or may be put away in covered cans or boxes and kept in a cool place.

If noodles are used as a vegetable they should be prepared as macaroni, except that they must not be soaked before cooking.

Egg Balls

4 eggs, cooked 1 egg, raw ¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon butter ¹⁄₈ teaspoon pepper

Put the eggs into enough cold water to more than cover them (at least one quart for every four eggs), bring this to a boil and put it into a cooker for twenty minutes. Drop the eggs into cold water, take off the shells and when they are cold carefully remove the whites, leaving the yolks whole. These may be dropped into soup as they are, or they may be mashed, mixed with the butter and salt and enough egg yolk, or egg white or whole egg, beaten, to moisten them, so that they may be moulded into balls about the size of a hard-cooked yolk. Roll these in flour and sauté them in butter.

Forcemeat Balls

¹⁄₄ cup fine, soft crumbs ¹⁄₄ cup milk 1 teaspoon salt 1 egg ²⁄₃ cup raw fish or meat 1 tablespoon flour 1 tablespoon butter

Cook the bread and milk to a paste, cool it, add the beaten egg and fish or meat, forced through a fine meat-chopper or chopped and then ground fine with a mortar and pestle. Mould it into balls, lay them in a pan with the flour and shake it until the balls are floured; then sauté them with the butter, shaking the pan carefully from time to time, till the balls are browned on all sides. Or the balls may be dropped into boiling soup and put into the cooker for one-half hour.

Croûtons

Cut slices of bread one-half inch thick, spread thinly with butter. Cut the slices into strips one-half inch wide, and these into dice one-half inch thick. Put them into a baking-pan, and brown them in a hot oven, stirring them about frequently that they may be brown evenly. Add them to the soup just before serving, or pass them after serving.

Soup Sticks

Prepare the bread exactly as for croûtons, except that the strips of bread are not cut into dice. If desired the strips may be sprinkled with grated cheese after they are cut. Lay them side by side with enough space between them to allow them to brown on the sides. Serve them as an accompaniment to soup.

Crisp Crackers

Split plain, thick crackers; spread the rough sides slightly with butter, and brown them delicately in a hot oven.

XI

FISH

_To tell fresh fish._ The flesh of fresh fish is firm, and will rise quickly if pressed with the finger; the eyes are bright, and the gills red. Frozen fish may be kept for a long time, but must be used at once when thawed, as it spoils more quickly than fresh fish. Thaw frozen fish in cold water.

_Care of fish._ Clean it and wipe it, inside and out, with a cloth dipped in strongly salted water. Do not put steaks or cutlets of fish into the water. Lay it on a plate on cracked ice, or in a cool place. It must not be kept in an ice-box unless wrapped in two thicknesses of brown paper, or it will impart an odour to milk, butter, and other foods.

_To clean a fish._ Before opening it remove the scales by scraping slowly from the tail toward the head, holding the knife nearly flat on the fish. Rinse the knife frequently in cold water. Open the fish on the under side, cutting a slit from the gills half-way down the body. Remove the entrails clear to the backbone, scraping the inside if necessary.

_To skin a fish._ Cut a slit down the back to the tail, on both sides of the dorsal fins, deep enough to take them out. Insert a sharp-pointed knife under the skin as near the gills as possible. Holding the head by the bony part near the gills, work the knife down toward the tail.

_Cooking of fish._ Fish is sufficiently cooked when the flesh will easily flake away from the bones. If boiled too long, it becomes soft and watery. An acid flavour is palatable with fish, and for this reason slices of lemon or an acid sauce are often served with it.

Left-over boiled fish may be served in a variety of ways, as creamed fish, scalloped fish, fish soufflé, croquettes, casserole of fish, etc.

TABLE OF THE SEASONS, ETC., OF FRESH-WATER FISH

NAME OF FISH WEIGHT IN SEASON Salmon 5 or 6 lbs., or more May to Sept. Shad 3 lbs., or more Jan. to June White fish 4 lbs. Winter Bass 3 to 8 lbs. Always Perch Average 8 to a lb. Summer Pickerel 1 to 4 lbs. Always Brook Trout Apr. to Aug. Lake Trout 4 to 9 lbs. Apr. to Aug. Pike Summer

TABLE OF SEASONS, ETC., OF SALT-WATER FISH

NAME OF FISH WEIGHT IN SEASON Cod 3 to 20 lbs. Always Haddock 5 to 8 lbs. Always Black Bass 3 lbs. Aug. to Mar. Cusk 5 to 8 lbs. Winter Halibut Always Flounders ¹⁄₂ to 5 lbs. Always Red snapper 4 lbs., or more Late winter Bluefish 4 to 8 lbs. June to Oct. Tautog July to Sept. Sturgeon Summer Swordfish July to Sept. Weakfish 3 to 5 lbs. Winter Mackerel ³⁄₄ to 2 lbs. May to Sept. Turbot Jan. to Mar. Herring 6 or 8 to a lb. Mar. and Apr. Smelts Average 8 to a lb. Sept. to Mar. Lobsters 1 to 2 lbs. Always Oysters Sept. to May Clams Always Crabs Summer

Boiled Fish

Put a three-pound fish, or three pounds of small fish, into four quarts of boiling water to which four teaspoonfuls of salt have been added. Set it at once into the cooker for one hour. Larger fish may be cooked in the same way if more water is used. For instance, a four-pound fish should be put into five or six quarts of water. Or, with large fish, put them into boiling water to cover them, let them come to a boil, and put them into the cooker for three-quarters of an hour or more, according to the size of the fish. Fish when overcooked will be watery, but will not break to pieces, unless very much overdone, if cooked in a hay-box or cooker.

Creamed Salt Codfish No. 1

1 lb. fish 3 or 4 qts. water