Part 3

These powders will cleanse the blood and give new life and vigor to the animal, its effects will soon be made apparent. They are harmless and can be fed with safety. Take

½ pound gentian root. 1 “ flour of brimstone, 1 “ fenugreek, ½ “ alum, ¼ “ gum asafœtida, 1 “ rosin, ¼ “ angelica root, ½ “ rhubarb, ½ “ columbo, 1 “ copperas, 1 “ cut and dried tobacco, ½ “ cream of tartar, ¼ “ red tartar, 1 “ epsom salts, 1 “ juniper berries, ½ “ garden benedict, ½ “ salts of nitre, 1 “ spice berries, 1 “ antimony, 1 “ ginger,

Mix and pulverize well. The glass should be ground through a fine mill two or three times. If the benedict and spice berries cannot be obtained it will do well without them.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE.

The dose is 1 table spoonful night and morning, with bran mash or oats, which can be increased or diminished to suit the case. By leaving out tobacco it will make an excellent powder for cows, hogs, sheep, &c.

TO CURE GALDS ON HORSES.

Take dry white lead and sprinkle it on the gald twice a day, which will dry it up and cure it in a short time.

ARABIAN OIL FOR HORSES.

This oil is an excellent mixture for sprains, swellings, galds, &c. either for a human subject or a horse. Take

1 quart of linseed oil, 1 pint of turpentine, 4 ounces oil of origanum 6 “ oil of spike, 6 “ spirits of camphor, 1 “ oil of sassafras.

Mix and shake well before using, and keep the vessel that contains it well corked. The spirits of camphor is made by taking 95 per cent. alcohol, adding as much gum camphor as it will dissolve.

FOR THE BOTS.

Dissolve in a pint of milk warm water ¼ lb. of alum and give it as a drench; in ten minutes after give 1 pint of linseed oil.

AN INFALLIBLE LOTION FOR BLOWS, BRUISES, SWELLINGS, SPRAINS, &C.

This lotion is truly astonishing in its effects, and cannot be surpassed for the purposes for which it is intended. Dissolve 2 ounces of gum camphor in 1 pint of 95 per cent. alcohol, and when dissolved add

2 ounces oil of turpentine, 2 “ spirits sal amoniac, 1 “ oil origanum, 2 tablespoonsful laudanum.

This lotion must be well rubbed in with the hand for a full quarter of an hour every time it is used, which should be four times a day.

FOR THE BLACK TONGUE.

Take a handful of fine salt and rub well upon the tongue of the horse that has this disease, which will effect a cure in two applications. It is an infallible, simple and cheap remedy.

LOTION FOR SCRATCHES OR GREASE.

Take white oak bark and make a strong decoction of it by boiling; then dissolve a portion of pulverized alum in the decoction, say ½ pound of alum to a quart of decoction, and it is ready for use. Before applying the lotion, wash the parts with warm soap suds two or three times a day. This lotion has never been known to fail when properly applied. A lotion made of alum and water is said to be good.

TO QUIET OR TAME HORSES.

Take of the oil of roses 4 drops, oil of cummin 4 drops, and a portion of the wart or horney substance that forms on the leg, powder it fine; then drop the oil in and mix it in your hand, put some up the horse’s nostrils, and give him some in his feed. This is said to be a certain remedy for taming horses, so that you may handle them as you please.

TREATMENT OF FOUNDER.

As soon as it is ascertained that the horse is foundered, take from the neck vein from 1 to 2 gallons of blood; then give 1 ounce of pulverized alum, mixed with damp oats; place the horse in a dry stall, ground floor is best, wrap the legs up as high as the knees and hock joints, with woollen cloths, saturate them with cold water for seven or eight hours; give him no food for twenty-four hours, and then let it be a light feed of oats and bran mash mixed. In two or three days turn him out for exercise. If the ankles continue feverish, bathe them at night with equal parts of vinegar, alcohol and sweet oil.

FOR URINE BOUND.

Take dandeline leaves, make a strong decoction and drench freely. A decoction made of water-melon seeds will answer the same purpose. Whiskey will generally accomplish the object.

FOR THE DISTEMPER.

Give the horse indigo water to drink: feed on bran mash mixed with a small quantity of sulphor or brimstone; or you may use some good horse powders, adding thereto a little of the brimstone. The easiest mode to tincture the water with the indigo is to put it into a common muslin bag; then dip the bag into the water, letting it remain until the water becomes bluish, or until you think it contains a sufficient quantity of the indigo. Give no other water to drink. This is a safe remedy.

HOOF OINTMENT.

Take 1 pound of tar and 1 pound of tallow, mix them with ½ pound of common turpentine in a stone ware dish; stir them until they are thoroughly mixed together. This is an excellent dressing for sore hoofs, for horses and oxen.

EMBROCATION FOR THE THROAT.

This embrocation may be used without taking the hair off. Take

2 ounces spirits of hartshorn, 2 “ oil of turpentine, 2 “ spirits of camphor, 1 “ laudanum.

Mix well and put into a bottle; keep it well corked.

TO MAKE ELDER OINTMENT.

Take the green leaves of elder, if they can be had; if not, take of the inside bark any quantity and lard in proportion to the elder, then fry to a crisp, which will be found very efficacious in healing sores, scalds, burns, sprains, or any humorous swelling. The elder alone fried in the same manner and strained, makes a much better ointment. This is worth making and keeping on hand, as its cost is a mere trifle.

FOR BLOOD OR BOG SPAVIN.

For curing the above disease dress with mercurial ointment two or three times, and then with iodine ointment. To make mercurial ointment, take 1 ounce of quicksilver to 3 ounces of lard, beat both together until thoroughly mixed. Iodine ointment is made by mixing equal quantities of iodine and mercurial ointment well together.

A GOOD HORSE POWDER.

The following prescription will make an excellent powder for ordinary purposes. Take

2 pounds sulphor of brimstone, 2 “ cream of tartar, 1 “ antimonia, 1 “ saltpetre.

The dose of this mixture is 1 table spoonful morning and evening.

ON BLISTERING.

The Spanish fly in its action is intense, yet superficial. It plentifully raises the cuticle, yet rarely injures the true skin and therefore seldom blemishes. The application of other acrid substances is occasionally followed by deeply seated ulceration; but a blister composed of the Spanish fly alone, while it does its duty, leaves, after a few weeks have passed, scarcely a trace behind. The art of blistering consists in cutting or rather shaving the hair close, then rubbing on the ointment at least ten minutes. As soon as the vesicles have risen, which will be in something like 20 hours, you may relieve the animal by the application of olive or neatsfoot oil. In inflammation of the lungs, &c., it should be made to act sooner. The principle of the blister is, that no intense inflammation can exist in the neighboring parts at the same time. An infusion of 2 ounces of the flies in 1 pint of oil of turpentine, for several days, is frequently used, and with good effect. This is a sure and safe remedy. If in the winter blanket the horse to keep him warm until he is over it; put a blanket over the head also if very cold.

TINCTURE OF ALOES AND MYRRH.

This will answer well for dressing either fresh or old wounds. Take

8 ounces of powdered aloes, 1 “ “ myrrh, 1 quart spirits of wine, 1 ounce water,

Put these into a bottle and shake every day for two weeks, when it will be ready for use. This is an excellent preparation, and can be relied on. Any person having horses should never be without this tincture, the cost being but a mere trifle, and will often and in every case save time, trouble and expense, where there is use for it.

TINCTURE OF OPIUM.

To make the above take 2 ounces of powdered opium and 2 pints spirits of wine, put into a bottle and shake well every day for a week, when it will be ready for use.

COMMON BLISTERING OINTMENT.

To make the above ointment which may be used for blistering in inflammation of the lungs, bowels, &c. Take

1½ pounds of lard, 2 ounces venice turpentine, 2 “ rosin, 2½ “ spanish flies, powdered,

Melt the rosin, turpentine and lard in any common vessel, and when the mixture begins to cool put in the powdered flies; mix well by stirring. Before applying the blister clip or shave the hair off and grease, rub well for ten minutes. After it has acted, grease with lard or oil.

FOR RING BONE OR SPAVIN.

The following will be found very useful for removing ring bone or spavin, or any other bony substance. Take

8 ounces of spanish flies, 1 pound of lard, 1 “ rosin, 6 ounces of venice turpentine,

Melt the lard, rosin and turpentine over a slow fire, and when beginning to cool add the spanish flies. Apply three mornings in succession; and in twelve hours after the last application dress with lard; keep out of the water while blistering, which may be reduced with oil and used for the purpose of irritating and removing inflammation, lameness, &c. The horse should not get wet while blistering.

SPIRITS OF PIMENTO.

To make spirits of pimento take

½ pound of ground allspice, 1 quart of alcohol. 1 “ of water,

Put these into a bottle and shake well before using. It is now ready for use though it is better to let it stand several days. This is a good lotion for the wind colic after the gas has been removed.

TINCTURE OF IODINE.

To make this tincture take 1 ounce of iodine, 1 pint of spirits of wine, and mix well. It is very good for enlarged glands of the neck, joints and muscles, and may be used twice a day without taking the hair off.

LINIMENT FOR SPRAINS, SWELLINGS, &c.

To make this liniment, which will never fail in curing sprains, swellings, &c. &c. Take

2 ounces hartshorn, 2 “ spirits camphor, 1 “ oil of turpentine, ½ “ laudanum.

Mix well together and put into a bottle, being careful to keep it well corked.

COOLING LOTION FOR INFLAMMATION

This is an excellent lotion for wounds of the eyes, &c. to be used after bleeding freely. Take

2 drachms sugar of lead, 1 “ white vitriol, 1 pint lime water.

Put them into a bottle and shake often, so as to dissolve the ingredients. Apply it as a wash, bathing the parts affected two or three times a day.

FOR THE SWEANEY.

This is a troublesome disease, and is very common amongst horses. It can easily be detected by examining the withers, which will be slightly sunk, and the skin becomes very tight to the muscles and flesh; and if suffered to run on, the horse will get very lame and the skin tight, and the withers much sunken. I have seen horses frequently have it on the rump or near the hip bone; it would cause the horse to become very lame. This disease should be attacked when first discovered, and never suffer it to run on until the horse becomes very lame and the parts much sunken.

REMEDY.

Take 1 pint strong vinegar, “ 1 gill spirits turpentine, “ 1 oz. pulverized saltpetre.

Put all into a bottle, shake, mix and dissolve well, and it is fit for use. Rub the liniment on the sunken parts with the hand as much as will soak in twice a day, until it becomes sore, and the skin gets loose; then apply once a day until all is used. This liniment will never fail in curing if applied properly, and is the only safe and sure remedy for sweaney. I have never known it to fail; you may grease with sweet oil 1 day after using the last time. This liniment will take off the hair, but it will do no harm, as the hair will come out in a short time as fine as ever, and will not leave the least blemish. The liniment must act on the skin, and if it does not make sore or act on the skin, add more spirits turpentine. If you have a horse that has the sweaney, do not put yourself to the trouble of getting any person to cure it for you, or purchase any quack medicine for it; but go to work and cure it yourself, which can be done for 12½ cents. The horse should not be worked while using it. I have known it to be cured whilst working the horse, but the animal should not be punished in that way. In case the first dose does not entirely relieve, use the second time: this you will have no need for if you do not work the horse.

HOW TO THROW OR MAKE A HORSE LAY DOWN.

Whatever you may intend the horse to do, it is always necessary to give him some idea what you wish him to do, and repeat whatever it may be until the horse is sure to remember it. To make a horse lay down, bend the left fore leg until the hoof is nearly bottom upwards; then fasten a loop over his leg above the pastern joint firmly, so that he cannot get the foot down: next fasten one end of another strap around his right foot above his hoof; place the strap through the left leg where it is bent; keep the strap in your right hand; keep on the left side of the horse; let the bridle have a strap to it; bring this up over the opposite-side of his neck, grasp it with your left hand, drawing the strap steady, so as to draw his head to the right; pull steady with the right hand strap, bearing against the shoulder to cause him to move; when he does move, he will come on his knees; keep the strap tight, so that he cannot straighten his leg; keep him in this position, turning his head towards you; bear against his side slightly with your shoulder with an equal pressure; in ten minutes or so, he will be down. As soon as he is down, he will be conquered; and you can handle as you please; keep his head up, now you may take off the straps, straighten out his legs, rub him about the face, head and neck with your hand the way the hair lays; handle all his legs gently, and he will soon learn that you won’t do him any harm. After he has laid some 15 or 20 minutes, let him get up again. Rest him a short time, and make him lay down again as before: repeat the operation three or four times which is sufficient for one lesson; give him 3 or 4 lessons, and he will lay down by taking hold of one foot, and tapping him on the other leg with a stick while you have hold of his foot--finally he will lay down from the motion of the stick. Before you attempt to make a horse lay down, place a thick bed of hay on the floor or ground, so that he cannot hurt himself in the least. If your horse is very scarry, fretful or skittish after you have given him one or two lessons, take something that will rattle or any thing that is calculated to frighten him, rattle it and pass over his head and about him; he may be much frightened at first, keep his head up, and he cannot get up, and by continuing with this, he will soon get used to it and not mind it. It will be the same with a kicking horse after you pass over him with harness, chains, &c. he will soon become accustomed to it, so that you can hitch him up and work him with safety.--In all cases where horses have been broke of bad habits, you should be cautious not to show him opportunities to learn his old tricks over. The most gentle horse can be spoiled and brought into bad habits; so you should be careful with the one that has just been broke from his bad habits.

The above is the only safe and sure course which you can pursue with a horse with bad habits. I would here again press upon you when you have him on his knees, to commence patting him under the belly--continue with gentle strokes upon the belly. You will in a few minutes bring him to his knees behind: continue the process and he will lay down and submit himself to your treatment. By proceeding gently you may handle his feet and legs any way you choose. By practising this process a few times, you will find him perfectly gentle and submissive, and will generally follow you, and is unwilling to leave you unless he be very wild; the first treatment will answer.--Should you have a very wild horse, and cannot manage him, take the button or horney substance which grows on the back part of the horse’s leg; dry this, pulverize it fine, drop a few drops of oil of roses and a few drops oil cummin; put some of this up his nostrils: this is best done by putting it in a large quill and blowing it up the nostril; feed him with a small portion of it from off your hand, with a little oats; also breathe your breath into his nostrils; by doing this, he will permit you to handle his feet, legs, &c. or permit you to get on his back, or suffer you to handle as you please. By pursuing these courses, and handling occasionally, always letting him know what you want him to do, you will be able to quiet and tame a horse to become perfectly gentle.

RULES FOR A HORSE THAT SHYES.

When you have a horse that shyes or scares at a stump, log or any object that may come in his way, never whip him for it, or attempt to force him up to it or by it. But be easy with him, try and get him up to the object by gentle handling; patting and rubbing him on the neck, shoulders, &c. Finally you will get him up to the object, and he will smell or feel it with his nose. If you pursue this course he will finally forget and give up the habit of scaring. If you wish to satisfy yourself about this course, take a buffalo robe or a red blanket, place your horse in a yard and hold up the robe, moving towards him; he will soon throw up his head, snort and run. Then throw the robe down in the centre of the yard; if frightened he will not rest until he has touched it with his nose; he will soon begin to walk toward the robe and snort, getting a little closer until he touches it with his nose, he will see that it will do him no harm, and finally he will pick it up with his teeth and care nothing about it. This will show you at once that if you can get him up to the object and let him feel it with his nose, he will care nothing about it, and soon forget his scaring, &c.--When you try the robe experiment step up to one side and watch his motions, and he will soon give you the principle upon which he acts. The same course must be pursued in breaking wild colts; go up to it cautiously and by degrees, never rush up to it all at once; be cautious, watch the colt, and if you see that he is frightened at your approach stop a little, and when he becomes quiet approach a little nearer, and so on until he will suffer you to touch his face, then rub him gently the way the hair lays; continue doing this until he will permit you to feel him pretty near all over; then place your halter on him, gently rubbing and feeling him over the face and head. When you have the halter on lead him over the yard cautiously; do not frighten him or whip him. Never whip unless he is very stubborn and does not fear you, then you should give him a few sharp cuts with the whip about his hind legs so as it will crack sharp and cause him to fear you. After you have him started feel his face, fore legs, &c. a good deal more than you have whipped him, then he will soon become fond of you again. After you have learned him to move off, you may put on the bridle and learn him by gentling him as you did with the halter; you may now put on the saddle, but do it cautiously, feeling him by degrees, then get yourself a block about eighteen inches high, place this by his side and when he gets used to this get up on the block, then put your foot in the stirrup, putting a little of your weight in it by degrees; as soon as you find he will bear it you can get on the saddle and make him move off, but do it all cautiously so as not to frighten him. When you have learned him all this you may next put on the harness, carefully feeling him first, and give him to understand what you want him to do; as soon as he finds out you will not hurt him he will suffer the harness to be put on; now you may hitch him to a light log, and learn him to pull this first; when he does this well use a heavier one, and when he does this all well you can hitch him up in a wagon or sulky, but do it all carefully, and do not frighten him or you may make a bad job of it. The above principle should always be carried out in every thing you wish the horse to learn. You cannot expect a man to do any piece of work for you unless he understands it, or has learned the principle of it, much less can you expect a horse to do something he knows nothing about. If you pursue this course you can soon get the horse to understand what you want him to do, and he will become very fond of you. I will here state that if you have a very stubborn colt or horse, you may use the oil of roses and oil of cummin with the powdered button, which should be blown into his nostrils.

HOW TO DRIVE OR BREAK A KICKING HORSE.

Or horses with bad habits. First take up one fore foot, bend his leg till his hoof is bottom upward, then slip a loop over his knee above the pastern joint to keep it tight. This should be done with a leather strap, forming a loop around the one, and so fixed as to buckle around the other; be careful so as to fasten it so as it cannot slip down or come loose, or you may pass a loop over the leg, and with another strap tie the loop close together, between the leg, so as to prevent it from coming down. This will leave the horse on three legs. You can handle now as you wish, as it is impossible for him to kick whilst his leg is up. This will conquer the horse quicker than any other course which you can pursue, and especially a kicker or one that runs off when he has the chance so to do.

The surest plan for a horse that will attempt to run off as soon as you hitch him up, is to fasten up his leg as directed above or learn him to hop along on three legs awhile, which he will soon learn to do. Exercise him two or three times, in this way fifteen or twenty minutes at a time, or until conquered, allowing his leg to be loosed. When you have learned him to walk in this way, fasten up his leg and put the harness on him and hitch up to sulky. Now you may drive off and need not be fearful of the horse kicking or doing any damage while one foot is up, nor can he kick or run fast enough to do any harm. But you can now drive him as you please. Should he want to run let him have the lines and whip too, with perfect safety; by doing this two or three times you will cure him at once of running off. The horse will be frightened at first, but he will soon see that you do not want to hurt him and will not care anything more about it. You can finally let down the leg and drive off gently without any further trouble.

I will here give you another plan to break or prevent a horse from kicking whilst working him. Loop a strap or rope around the horse’s hind leg, with one end and with the other end fasten around the foreleg, allowing it just long enough for him to make a step, in order to keep the strap from dragging on the ground or being in his way while walking. Pass a strap around his back, letting it pass under his belly and fasten it up in this way; this properly done will soon conquer him, as it is impossible for him to kick whilst the strap is to his legs.

I will still give you another plan to prevent a horse from kicking. Loop a strap around the hind leg; let it pass through between the fore legs, thence through the ring of the bridle bit, allowing the strap just long enough for him to make the step, now fasten the strap. You can now drive off with safety, as it is utterly impossible for him to kick or to do any harm. You should pass a strap around the horse’s back and fasten up the strap or rope to prevent it from dragging on the ground.