Part 9

The first foreign newspaper published at Canton was in 1827; it was called the 'Canton Register,' and was printed on a small hand-press lent for the purpose by Mr. Alexander Matheson, of the then house of Magniac & Co.[59] Its size was but a little more than that of a large sheet of foolscap. The editor, who himself was the first compositor, was a young American gentleman named Wood, of Philadelphia, and son of the celebrated tragedian. He was a person of great versatility, mentally and materially; he abounded in wit, was well read, and of no fixed purpose. Having ceased to be connected with the 'Register,' he entered the office of Messrs. Russell & Co. about the same time with young Irving, a nephew of Washington Irving. One day, one of our Parsee friends, Nanabhoy Framjee, came in for bills on London 'in small pamphlets' (moderate amounts each), and it was Wood's business to fill them up. Our office, one of three, was the general rendezvous of Russell & Co.'s captains, and on the day in question five or six of them were present, talking over purchases in carpenter's square of camphor-wood trunks, lacquered ware boxes, writing desks, &c. The bills having been made out were left on Mr. Low's desk for signature. Suddenly from the 'Tai-Pan's' office we heard a great shout of laughter, and that gentleman appeared. 'Wood,' said he, handing him one of the bills, 'I doubt if Baring's will accept this, or even Nanabhoy take it; read it over.' Wood did so, and to his confusion saw that B. B. & Co. were requested to pay to the order of Nanabhoy Framjee, Esq., 'one hundred lacquered ware boxes,' which in his absence of mind he had caught up from the skippers. Not very long after, Wood took up his quarters in the French Factory, and established a second newspaper, called the 'Chinese Courier,' which had but a short existence. Amongst his other accomplishments was that of sketching, for which he had a remarkable talent, and he was, moreover, a maker of verses! One evening at dinner at his house, several being at table, the conversation ran upon poetry, and some impromptu verses having been made, something led to a challenge to Wood to parody Byron's 'Know'st thou the land,' confining the words entirely to local matters and things. He accepted the challenge, and when we again met he read after dinner the following, on which we congratulated him, as being _good_ for Canton!

Know'st thou the land where the nankin and tea-chest, With cassia and rhubarb and camphor, abound? Where oft in the Hongs, by the coolies' foul feet pressed, They pack their Boheas in a way to astound?

Know'st thou the land where in vain you endeavour To sell your fair longcloths or barter your yarn? Where you fidget and fret, be you never so clever, And find all your profits are going 'astarn'?

Know'st thou the land where the drug in its glory, With cotton and betel-nut, govern the day? Where Patna or Malwa's the theme of each story, The life of each anecdote, solemn or gay?

Know'st thou the land where the fair, unprotected By the lords of their destinies, wither alone? Where woman's a slave, by her tyrants neglected, And the only bright jewel they sigh not to own?

Where lips which were formed to breathe of devotion To affectionate spouses or lovers provoke; Instead of confessing their tender emotion, Give forth all their sensitive feelings in _smoke_?

'Tis the land we now live in--the land that would shame The world by its valour, invention, and worth; Where the page of her history glows with the name Of her sage,[60] and her warrior,[61] the pride of the earth;

Where tea is the potion great deeds to inspire, And emperors deign (and if _they_, who will not?) To watch the decoction, themselves, on the fire, And write prosy odes to the 'pride of the pot.'

Tho' fairest Hwâ-Te[62] are thy gardens of flowers, And sweet every blossom that flings to the breeze Its perfume, decks with its tints thy gay bowers, Or clings on its vine to thy moss-covered trees;

Yet fairer the lands we have all left behind us, And gayer the flowers and purer the air. Do we need in our exile this rhyme to remind us Of the hearts that are glowing with love for us there?

Farewell then to tea-chests; the loosened sail flying Expands to the breeze and chides our delay; Now past is the parting, the 'chin-chin,' the sighing Of all the poor 'devils'[63] who _can't_ get away!

Wood and a brother resident, an Irishman named Keating, had at one time a 'little difficulty.' Mr. Augustine Heard acted for him, and Mr. James Innes, an 'old school' and eccentric Scotchman, for the latter. Much correspondence took place between them as to where the question should be washed out in 'blood.' One side chose French Island, at Whampoa; the other Lintin, as being beyond the interference of the Chinese authorities in case of 'accident;' but through the good sense of the '_best_ men,' and to the gratification of common friends, the dispute was arranged--because, as Wood said, 'There was no abbey in which to lay a body.' After a residence of nearly ten years at Canton, Wood removed to Manila, and established himself on a coffee and sugar plantation at Jala-Jala. His letters from this new abode were full of wit and mirthful to a degree, even in describing bad crops caused by visits from Messrs. Taiphoon, Drought, & Co., or the destruction of his fences by wild buffaloes, while he never could get a night's sleep from the many snakes of preposterous dimensions which made themselves 'at home' in his bungalow, and pursued the most 'harmless' of rats across the ceiling, up and down posts, and across the floors 'under his very eyes.' At length he quitted Jala-Jala and joined the office of Messrs. Russell & Sturgis, at Manila. Under their generous auspices and considerate kindness he ever after found there a home.

He was the first person to introduce the art of photography in Manila, and through his teaching many Mestizos[64] became proficients, and practise it now as a profession. He made one short visit to Europe, from which he returned delighted, and one to myself at Macao (thirty years after we first met at Canton). At length for poor Wood the 'tolling of the bell' was heard; he died, full of years, after an extraordinary life of great personal worth, great unsteadiness of purpose, and, as far as worldly success went, a great unsuccess.

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Under certain circumstances foreign residents could 'offer up' petitions at the city gates! It was a privilege that had its origin a long while ago. At the same time it was discouraged by the authorities, while strict orders were given to the guards at the gates to keep a sharp look-out and close them if any number of barbarians were known to be approaching. This old custom originated in some question, such as praying for a diminution of duties (all duties being more or less arbitrary), or for permission to ship off an extra weight of silks, which was fixed at a certain number of piculs per vessel,[65] and called the 'silk privilege,' or on some matter affecting their personal comfort. The Co-Hong frequently co-operated with us, recommended our petitioning, and even themselves made a draft paper. Answers to these petitions were invariably received, when the Hong merchants would prepare for us a rejoinder, if necessary.

Great precautions were taken to keep the intention as quiet as possible, consequently all who were disposed to join a party in presenting a petition were advised in time. None were more anxious to accompany it than the younger members of the community, who considered it great fun! To refer to a particular case, directly in front of the American Factory, at the river side, there existed a huge mound of earth and rubbish that had its origin with the great fire of 1822. While the new Factories were going up and the damaged ones being repaired the workmen and coolies threw all sorts of rubbish on the spot. Subsequently it became a depository of refuse of all sorts, and finally a resort of loathsome beggars, of whom many died on it; but beyond obtaining the carrying away of the dead bodies, all efforts by the foreigners to get the whole thing removed had proved ineffectual.

The Hong merchants now and then sent a number of coolies, but they made small impression upon it; and at length, mostly at their suggestion that it was 'Mandarin pigeon,' it was resolved to present a petition at the city gates, which they themselves prepared and we copied.

On the day agreed upon, therefore, the party going were quietly advised and informed at which gate to meet. Taking different streets in small numbers of three or four, all drew towards the 'petition gate,' as we called it, and suddenly with a rush entered it. The surprise of the guards was complete. They hastily closed the ponderous outer gate to prevent the Chinese entering and possibly creating a row. Seeing the petition on red paper held up above our heads, they knew from experience the object of our visit, and forthwith despatched a messenger to the Hoppo's 'Ya-Mun.'[66] Any annoyance caused us by Chinese lookers-on or by any who tried to crowd about us called for prompt 'whipping' by the soldiers, as was always the case, letting foreigners have their own way, and laying it well over the shoulders of their own countrymen who attempted any interference or who did not 'move on' fast enough. It happened that on a previous occasion of petitioning an unpleasant incident occurred, which arose from a fancied insult; blows had been exchanged, and certain words used by an excited member of the foreign party in reference to the soldiers became a tradition, 'Knock them down, friend Olyphant, they are only tea and rice,' and the best of the joke was that the speaker was a Quaker and Mr. Olyphant one of the quietest men in the world, and the last person to strike any one.

Such exhibitions were much to be deplored as encouraging the belief that foreigners were indeed 'unruly devils'--a pugnacious, wild, boisterous people. Presently we heard the sound of the gong and the loud cries of lictors preceding the Mandarin calling out his rank and office as well as keeping the street clear. The space between the large outer and inner gate is the thickness of the wall, about thirty feet, and twelve to eighteen feet broad, the quarters of the guard, about twenty or twenty-five in number, being in recesses on either side, and in this space petitions are received. The Ta-Yin[67] (great man) having entered with other Mandarins and attendants, after salutations and surprise at seeing so many foreigners, they seated themselves on chairs brought by their followers. He then commenced by telling us of the extreme impropriety of entering the gates in opposition to the will of the 'Son of Heaven,' cautioned us to be wary how we did the like again, lest we might check the flow of Imperial benevolence towards all coming from a distance, &c. &c., which was the usual opening formula, when a Linguist being found cut and dried on the spot (sent privately by the Hong merchants), stepped forward, knelt on both knees, and 'handed up' the petition. In the meantime it was a strange sight to see the houses, shop doors, and windows inside the city full to overflow of Chinese, intently looking on in profound stillness and curiosity.

His Excellency, having read the paper, said in placing it in the hands of an officer that a communication would be sent to the Hong merchants, 'that we must return to our Factories, be henceforth reverently obedient, when all would be well, otherwise His Sacred Majesty, Ruler of all under the Sun, notwithstanding that he was the incarnation of consideration for all beyond the Western Ocean, might be provoked to withdraw his beneficent,' &c. &c. 'That the laws of the Celestial Empire must be obeyed,' and this was the closing formula.

Business being thus ended, a disposition was shown for a little conversation. Acting as interpreter, I was invited to speak of the distance of our countries from the 'Celestial Flowery Land,' how many moons it took to come and to return; all which was done in laying great stress upon the clear light of day into which we emerged as we left our own gloomy shores and approached the 'Middle Kingdom'! Questions were asked as to our respective nationalities, our names also; and in their attempts to repeat such as Zacharia, Krieroffski, Burr, and Brown, they turned to one another and laughed heartily at their unsuccessful efforts. The teapot and servants to prepare the infusion being indispensable in the suite of Mandarins (as well as pipe-bearers), tea was presently offered to us; we in exchange 'offered up' Manila cheroots. No one exhibited the slightest impatience, no matter how many hundreds of Chinese were obliged, outside or inside, to make great détours to reach other gates.

The Mandarins being provided with two watches each, next began a comparison of time; they asked our ages, how long we had lived within the benign sway of that 'Almighty Ruler' under whose protecting wings we found ourselves; and being assured, in reply to other enquiries, that in our distant countries now and then a sun, very occasionally two or three moons, with a rare glimmer of a star, might be seen, they rose from their seats, took leave, and were soon out of sight. The great gate was then opened after a violent effort, with a loud grating of its enormous hinges, and the 'foreign devils' returned to the Factories, after an hour or two agreeably passed. The petition in question resulted in the Hong merchants receiving orders for the immediate removal of the unsightly mound, of course at their expense. They were effectually carried out and the ground was levelled off. It then became the favourite resort of the Indian servants of Parsee and Moormen residents.

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Until the summer of 1829 the most important of the American houses was that of Perkins & Co. It was the oldest one existing, without change of name, of all the foreign firms, having been established soon after a visit made by Mr. Thomas H. Perkins with two vessels to Canton in 1798. The house was represented until 1807 by Mr. Bumstead, who was then succeeded by Mr. Cushing. For comparison with the size of merchant ships at the present day, it may be noted that this gentleman came out in the ship 'Levant' (Captain Proctor), of 264 tons! Mr. Cushing became a partner in the Boston firm of J. and T. H. Perkins, and managed that of Perkins & Co., of which he was also a partner continuously until 1828, without leaving Canton, when he returned to Boston in the ship 'Milo,' arriving there on September 17.

To Mr. Cushing succeeded Mr. Thomas T. Forbes, who, on returning from a visit to Macao in his yacht, was unfortunately drowned in a taiphoon on August 9, 1829, together with Mr. S. H. Monson, the book-keeper of Russell & Co. On this sad event taking place, amongst his papers was found a sealed letter addressed to Russell & Co. It requested them, in case of accident to himself, to take charge of the local business of his own firm, as well as that of J. and T. H. Perkins. They did so, and naturally came with it that of Houqua, who had been the intimate personal friend of Mr. Cushing during his unbroken residence of over twenty years in Canton.

When the news of Mr. Forbes's death reached him, Mr. Cushing was in England, where the 'Bashaw' (Captain Pearson), one of the ships of his Boston firm, was loading for Whampoa. He returned to Canton in her, arriving in the month of August 1830. Arrangements were then definitely concluded by which Russell & Co. were officially appointed sole agents for the Boston house, that of Perkins & Co. being wound up, while the important foreign business of Houqua was then also definitely secured to them.

Towards the close of 'ante-treaty' days, the house met with a serious loss in the violent death of another book-keeper, Mr. George C. Perkins, of Boston. He entered the office as assistant book-keeper,[68] and subsequently took charge of that important branch of the business. He was about thirty years of age, very systematic and methodical, a well-read man, and of most agreeable manners. He left Macao on a visit to the United States, and was returning by the way of San Francisco to resume the duties of his office. Having arrived near Hong Kong, he left the ship in which he had crossed the Pacific, for Macao in a fast boat with all his baggage. Supposing it to contain gold, coming from the 'Gold Hills' (by which name California is known to the Chinese), the cupidity of the boatmen was excited. They threw Perkins overboard in the Lantao Channel, and he was drowned. On the event being made known to the Canton authorities, their search for the boatmen was so energetic that they were soon discovered in the midst of a number of fast boats anchored in Anson's Bay, and beheaded.

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The year 1830 was an unprecedented one in the annals of foreign life at Canton, by reason of the coming to the Factories of several English and American ladies from Macao, in 'direct opposition to old regulations.' The Mandarins were thoroughly at their wits' ends by so extraordinary an occurrence. 'Chops' began to circulate freely. The ladies were ordered to leave forthwith, and without one moment's delay, otherwise the 'Son of Heaven,' 'so considerate for all beyond the sea,' would withdraw his compassion, and, and--in fact, had the world been coming to an end, the authorities could not have been more thoroughly alarmed. In a letter written at the time, I find the following, dated April 8, 1830:--

Went in the morning to the 'Company's' chapel with several Americans to hear the Rev. Mr. Vachell preach, and to see the 'foreign devil females,' as the Chinamen call them. They were Mrs. Baynes, wife of the Chief of the Factory, Mrs. Robinson, and Mrs. Fearon, but _she_ is the beauty of the party! Mrs. B. was dressed in true London style, which, much admired by us, is considered 'frightful' by the Chinese. It was quite a strange thing to see foreign ladies in the 'Celestial Empire,' an occurrence which had never before taken place! After a few days they left, but not until the mandarins threatened to stop all trade!

On November 12 of the same year I find the following:--

What will Canton turn into, and where will bachelors find rest? Nowhere. Mrs. and Miss Low and other ladies are at this moment here! The second day after they arrived several old codgers were seen in immense coats, which had been stowed away in camphor trunks for ten or fifteen years, and with huge cravats on, and with what once were gloves, on their way to make visits!

_13th._--Called on the Tai-Pan's wife and niece, and entertained them with descriptions of local worthies such as 'Houqua,' 'Mouqua,' and 'Gowqua,' 'Man-Hop,' 'Wa-Hop,' and 'Tung-Hop'--a jumble they had never heard of, and names that amused them immensely.

_22nd._--Evening Church service at Talbot's, the Consul, at No. 1 American Hong. The ladies and a good number of gentlemen present. At half-past nine we accompanied the former to show our fashionable street, Old China Street, its shops shut at that hour; but some Chinamen passing began to cry out, 'Foreign devil women!' when instantly every door was opened and lanterns appeared. In less than ten minutes we were completely surrounded, and had to beat a hasty retreat. We were not at all molested; it was simply surprise and curiosity; and on arriving at the gate of the Hong everyone quietly dispersed.

_24th._--The Chinese are not so far out in calling us barbarians. Two or three from No. 2 Suy-Hong called on the ladies. Coats, gloves, and cravats--such cravats! I heard one say when he returned, 'Thank God that is over!' and then call for jacket and black neck-ribbon! He next lighted a cheroot, and looked as if a great burthen were off his mind. In the evening dined at Charles N. Talbot's; all bachelors, of course! A fine little party; but I dissipated too much, and the sooner bedtime comes the better. Bad habit of dining out in this country; I think I shall swear off, no getting home without being observed! I hope the ladies in No. 1 did not see me come in!

_30th._--The ladies took their departure this evening. They went on board the boat that was to convey them, escorted by all the American gentlemen. While returning from Jackass Point an inveterate bachelor said, 'I hope we shall never be _bothered_ with ladies in Canton again!' but he was a notoriously crusty old fellow.

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Having lost a fine retriever named Rover, and an English friend a small pug named Bop, I caused a 'reward-card' to be posted on the walls of Chungqua's Hong. As these 'cards' have a peculiar phraseology, I give a translation of the one in question:--

On the 10th day of the 1st moon of the present year two foreign dogs strayed, one from the Suy-Hong and one from the Dutch Hong, and have not been seen to return. Long ears and a long tail adorned the one, which had also a brown star on its breast, the body being of the colour of 'fragrant ink.' The other was a small dog, with cropped ears and a tail of no length. His body was spotted in variegated colours of brown and white. The larger dog was named 'Lo-Wā,' and the smaller 'Pŏ-Pā.'

This is to give notice that should any 'superior man' know where they are, or if they have been 'misled,' and will inform, he shall be rewarded with _flowered red money--two great rounds_[69] for the big one, and one great round for the little one. Even should they have been _stolen_ (_an inconceivable thing!_), if the person who took them will bring them to Suy-Hong No. 2 he Shall still be rewarded, and clemency used towards him. This placard is real; its words will not be eaten.

Taou-Kwang: 14th year, 15th day, 1st moon.

The poor dogs were never found, and the Compradore insisted upon it that 'some man hav chow-chow he,'[70] and we supposed so too.

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