Part 7

It was the intention of the Factory to embark on the 1st, but the departure was postponed to the 2nd. A circular was then sent to the members, requesting them to be on board their respective boats by half-past ten the next morning, at which time they were to get under way. Accordingly, my chum and I joined our chop-boat, anchored in the inner harbour with thirteen others, which composed the fleet. Presently a signal was made by the boat of Mr. Davis, Chief of the Select Committee, hoisting its mainsail, and in a few minutes we were sailing in line through the harbour. We numbered, including invited guests, thirty-eight foreigners. Three of the boats (which in foreign measurement would be of, say, 120 tons) were full of Factory coolies, cows, and provisions, the latter in addition to each one having a supply on board sufficient for three days. Our chop is large and comfortable; we have a cabin, by means of partitions, 14 feet by 10 and 7 feet high, and forward of it is another for our servants, the cook, and stores. Two couches, one on either side, serve for beds, added to which are tables, toilette arrangements, and everything complete, with cleanliness the most perfect. We breakfast and dine as regularly and in as good style as on shore. Some boats have four gentlemen and others five, as arranged among themselves. They are chartered by the Factory twice a year, and each one receives one hundred Spanish dollars for the trip up or down. Provisions and furniture--in fact, all things needful--are also supplied by the Company. We have not with us all the members, some remaining awhile longer at Macao; but amongst those now on their way to Canton are Dr. Colledge and Padre Vachell, as well as that other important personage, the Steward Canning! The Company's Compradore also accompanies the fleet, with three or four fast boats under his control for carrying messages, making visits, or distributing fresh milk. So you see everything is as cosy as possible. The crews, numbering about fifteen men to each boat, manage them with surprising dexterity. These Chinese boat people are perhaps unequalled by any others in the world. They are not only active and intelligent, but good-natured and obliging, and seem anxious to get on as quickly as possible.

Now that I have given you a sketch of our accommodation, I will go on with our passage from the inner harbour. While passing through it, volleys of fire-crackers were let off, and gongs were beaten by way of 'chin-chining Joss' for a safe and pleasant passage. A little later dinner was served, and a No. 1 dinner it was. Crab soup to begin with, an ample dessert, Hodgson's pale ale, superb La Rose and sherry, with custard-apples, plantains, and other fruits. We turned in at eleven, but slept little, as the wind was dead ahead after entering the 'Broadway,' so I was up early and on deck. The fleet was hard at it, tack and tack to windward. We found ourselves in the middle of it, those to windward about three miles off, and those to leeward about the same distance. At eight o'clock we passed the Mo-tow, or 'Knife-grinding,' Fort, which was once a stronghold of the celebrated pirate Apotsae, who pillaged all the country round about. Near to it were lying two of His Celestial Majesty's men-of-war junks. The day's supply of fresh milk was brought on board, and at eight breakfast, which was attended with difficulty, from the heeling over of the boat. We entered the 'Heang-Shan'[49] River, but at 11.30 were all obliged to anchor within five miles of the city, as it had begun to blow a violent gale, the rain coming down in torrents. On the morning of the 5th, cloudy and rainy, but the wind abating somewhat and the tide being favourable, we hove up, and at 8.30 passed Heang-Shan. We expected to anchor to receive the customary visit of the mandarin, but he may not have felt inclined to turn out in such weather. It happened that the Compradore, who had gone up in a fast boat the evening before, procured from him his seal to the Company's 'chop,' which allowed us to go on without anchoring; but through all this fuss and his absence we lost the milk for our after-dinner tea! On the morning of the 6th the Compradore was again alongside, and made it 'all right' with _us_ by threatening to come again with mutton for dinner; and, considering what we have 'undergone' since leaving Macao, it will be very acceptable.

The scenery on both sides of the river is celebrated for its beauty, and we enjoyed it much. The banks are lined with orange and lemon trees, peaches and lychee. On the summit of a high hill stands a seven-story pagoda. If you ask a Chinaman its object or use, he replies that it is 'Joss pigeon,' and you are as wise as you were before. In reality, the Chinese believe that these buildings bring prosperity on the region and ward off evil influences. The river is crowded with boats crossing from one bank to the other, filled with all sorts of country produce or passengers, who stare their very eyes out in looking at us. Further on we pass another fort, with a curious name, the 'Old Duck,' and on the riverside opposite is another called 'Greatly Excellent.' In the afternoon a fine strong breeze sprang up, and we made rapid progress, passing still another fortification, called the 'Mouth of the Great Gate.' We were compelled to dine on a superb roasted capon, with _et ceteras_ as usual. We just touched at 'Che-nae' for the official formality, and soon after the Western Fort was passed, when we saw the innumerable lights and lanterns of the provincial city; and at 8 P.M. glad enough we were to find ourselves once more in 'Old Canton.'

The Dutch East India Company followed the same programme to and from Macao. The members of this Company were never so numerous as that of the English. There were usually two gentlemen to manage all affairs, with three or four 'writers.'

Under various pretexts, other foreign merchants managed to remain at Canton the year out. One was that their import cargo not having been sold, consequently the tea and other merchandise which they had shipped was unpaid for. This, if not considered reasonable, at all events had the effect of causing the authorities to overlook their presence, and gradually that article of the 'old regulations' became a dead letter.

Having seen the manner in which the great Companies went between Canton and Macao, it will be curious to follow the 'private' individual and the formalities that had to be gone through (which, however, applied to those Companies as well). A linguist was sent for, to whom was given the name and nationality of the person requiring a permit for Macao, and he would take them to the Hong merchants. Three or four of these would then petition the Hoppo that the request might be granted. Amongst these merchants must be included the one who 'secured' the foreigner in question. On the third day after, the linguist would reappear at the Factory and give notice that the luggage, &c. must be examined by an officer from the Hoppo's office, which having been done, the permit would be given to the head boatman, and on the fourth day the boat could proceed on her journey. It must not be supposed that these old 'government regulations' were never infringed, for in my own case, in 1830, being ill, I asked Houqua to use his influence that I might leave at once, and in twenty-four hours my papers were ready and I was off. The boats in which foreigners travelled to and from Macao (except occasionally if a large party, when they took chop-boats) acquired the name of 'inside fast boats.' They were large and commodious, with cabins in which one could stand up, broad raised seats on two sides, covered with clean matting, on which one slept. They were furnished with green Venetian blinds. In the centre of the cabin stood the dining-table, and over it a lamp was suspended. The accommodation was ample for four persons. Abaft the main cabin was a smaller one, for the servants and cook; then came the stern-sheets, occupied by the helmsman and two or three men to work the main-sheet. On one quarter was the kitchen; forward of the principal cabin was a flush deck to the bows; there stood the foremast, and ten to twelve oars could be used. The crew consisted of twelve or fifteen men, always alert, hard-working, and good-natured. The trip down the river or up was particularly enjoyable; the respite from office duties imparted a new sensation; and, if made in the south-west monsoon, nothing so exhilarating after the close hot Factories as this breeze fresh from the sea. The entire cost of the trip was for the boat eighty dollars, and the invariable 'cumsha,'[50] ten or fifteen more, according to one's humour after a quick or tedious passage.

The official papers were four in number, to which on the particular occasion now referred to a fifth was added.

No. 1. The petition from the Hong merchants applying for the pass to Macao, which read thus:--

Whereas it is our duty to petition for permits for Macao, it now appears that the barbarian merchant, H----, having clearly set forth that on a former year he came to Canton to trade, now wishes to visit Macao. Not daring to resort to illegal ways, he has begged us to entreat the favour of an official passport being granted to him, that he may submit it for inspection at the several stations on the route. Such being the barbarian's wishes, we petition that he may be officially permitted to proceed.

_Memorandum._--The barbarian merchant H---- is provided with one sword and one gun for the protection of his person, as well as with clothing and cooking utensils.

(Signed) HOUQUA MOUQUA PWANKEIQUA PWANHOYQUA.

Taou-Kwang: 19th year, 4th moon, 15th sun.

No. 2. The Hoppo's answer:--

The request is granted. He may go to Macao. This must be shown at the several custom-houses on the route, and on arrival at Macao it is to be surrendered to the collector there.

(Seal of the Hoppo.)

_Note._--To be countersigned at the West Fort and at Che-Nae.

No. 3.

This pass is to be countersigned along the whole route to Macao. Yu, by Imperial decree Acting Hoppo for the Port of Canton. Raised two degrees! Whereas it is evident that, to ensure safety and uninterrupted travelling between Canton and Macao, barbarians should be furnished with passports for exhibition at the custom-houses on the way, that they may be allowed to proceed, and the time of arrival and departure at each is to be noted on them. All difficulty thus removed, and no excuse for loitering or wandering, how can disturbances arise? On arrival at Macao the pass must be delivered to the custom-house there, to be returned to this office and cancelled. It is highly important that they (to whose hands it shall come) attend to this injunction.

_Memorandum._--One boat, containing one barbarian named H----, who in the 4th moon, 16th sun, starts from the capital.

(Seal and date.)

Countersigned at the

West Fort 16th, arrived evening, left evening. Che-Nae 17th, " daylight, " daylight. Hiang-Shan 18th, " midnight, " " Macao 18th, " evening.

(I fill in the dates with arrivals and departures as they took place.)

No. 4.

Yu [as above].

Whereas, by the will of the Great Emperor, he controls all matters relating to the trade of the Outer Ocean, now grants the merchant H----, by means of the boat belonging to Yip-Paou-Chang, liberty to proceed with fine teas, &c., to Macao for sale. Herein are registered the articles he takes with him on which the duties have been collected, viz.:--

63 catties[51] of tea, in five boxes. 4 large silver spoons. 8 small silver spoons. 45 catties of oil, in two jars. 10 " pictures. 36 " preserves, in one box. 27 " salt fish, in one package. 612 " wooden ware, in eight boxes. 30 pairs of shoes, in one box. 270 catties of iron ware, in three boxes. 18 " hams, in one package. 1 wooden table. 27 catties of white sugar, in one package. 3 small oil paintings.

The barbarian merchant H---- also takes the following personal stores:--

524 bottles of foreign wine. 30 foreign knives, with 30 forks. 30 " glass cups and bottles (decanters). 1 trunk of woollen clothing. 2 boxes of shaving-head implements (razors). 250 catties of foreign clothing. 30 " fragrant water. 200 " lead. 70 " divers eatables. 1 glass mirror. 1 large glass lamp. 20 catties of foreign crockery. 10 " copper ware. 30 " candles. 10 pieces of foreign fragrant soap. 1 foreign gun and 1 sword. 1 hat and 1 spyglass. 270 catties of foreign white paper. 5 pictures with glass fronts. 40 catties of rolled tobacco-leaves (cheroots). 1 foreign white woollen blanket.

As my departure for Macao on this occasion took place a month or two after the surrender of the opium, unusual strictness was observed for fear that some of the nine foreign merchants selected by the 'Kinchae'[52] as hostages might escape. The following extra document was therefore issued:--

No. 5.

An extra permit granted by the officer appointed by the Imperial Commissioner, occasioned by the opium affair, and stationed in front of the foreign Factories, to take cognisance of all foreigners arriving at and leaving Canton. Le, waiting preferment, specially appointed, now reports to the Kwang-Chow-Heĕ.[53] It having been brought to my knowledge that the boat owned by Chang, having on board the barbarian H----, leaves this 16th sun of the 4th moon for Macao, no delay must take place. Moreover, as neither of 'the nine' forbidden to leave are on board, custom-houses will permit her to pass.

No. 196. (Signature of the Kwang-Chow-Heĕ), and endorsed, 'To be returned and cancelled.'

The House Compradores were always glad to avail themselves of such an opportunity to send to Macao a lot of 'Chow-chow' cargo on their own account, a privilege we never refused. This accounts for the sentence in No. 4--'proceeding to Macao with fine tea for sale.' Whence came the 200 catties (266 pounds) of lead was a mystery to me, but the 270 catties of 'iron ware' were iron chests, and 270 catties of foreign white paper certain office books of accounts and stationery, removed from the Canton offices in consequence of the unsettled state of affairs, with a quantity of house stores, &c. The details of everything is peculiarly a Chinese idea, and as similar documents are now no longer issued, and the _inside_ passage to Macao never taken under former circumstances, they are curious in their way. The _outside_ passage, by the way of the Bogue and in splendid steamers, is now the order of the day.

* * * * *

The word _tea_ is of Chinese origin, being a corruption of _tay_ in the Fuh-Keen dialect, the province from whence it was first exported to Europe. The leaf has always retained its name of tea in the West, notwithstanding that in Canton, from which port it has been shipped for nearly 250 years, it is called _chā_. This word means the _infusion_, while _chā-yip_, analogous to 'leaves for infusion,' is the tea of commerce. The varieties are very numerous, and are classed under the heads of _black_ and _green_. It is only within fifty-five years that _Oolongs_ and _Ankoys_ have been shipped, and chiefly to the United States. These are of a light brown colour. _Blacks_ consisted of _Bohea_, _Congo_, _Souchong_, and _Powchong_. The first derives its name from the celebrated _Woo-E_ Hills of Fuh-Keen; the second signifies _Workmen's_ tea; the third 'small seeds;' and the fourth 'seeds in bundles,' it having been always done up in paper packages. _Greens_ were, 1, 'Young Hyson,' 2, 'Hyson,' 3, 'Hyson Skin,' 4, 'Gunpowder,' and 5, 'Imperial.' The first means in Chinese 'before the rains' (when it was gathered), the second the 'opening of spring,' and the third the 'refuse or end of the crop.' The Chinese name of the fourth signifies 'small pearls' and of the fifth 'large pearls.'

In addition to these were formerly shipped Campoi, Hung-Muy, Sung-Lo, Caper, and Woping; but they have now lost their distinctive names, and if shipped at the present day are merged into other kinds more popularly known.

The choicest of all teas, and which we saw only on special occasions, when it came with the annual New Year presents from the Hong merchants, was 'Padre Souchong,' so called from its having been grown by the priests of a famous monastery. The whole quantity was small; it was put up in canisters of two or three ounces, and was currently supposed to be sent to the Emperor. His Celestial Majesty deigned as a rare favour to present some of it to the most favoured of the high officers of Government at Pekin, and they in their turn, as a great compliment, forwarded a portion to the Hong merchants. This was in return for valuable watches set with pearls, for clocks, musical snuff-boxes, or 'smellum water' (as the Chinese call lavender-water and eau de cologne), which foreign objects it was customary to send to influential mandarins for favours in the past and those in prospective.

The following tradition exists as to this peculiar tea. In spite of the assertion that the entire annual crop is 'offered up to the reigning Emperor,' it is brought to Canton, but in a very limited quantity.

In a deep recess of the Woo-E (Bohea) Hills, surrounded by shrubbery and trees, almost impenetrable to the human eye, stands the Temple of the 'Silver Moon.' Its antiquity is so great that all traces of its origin are lost. The temple has been inhabited from time immemorial by a family of the 'Tea Sect,' which, at the period of the year coinciding with the maturity of the leaves, makes offerings to its patron saint of fine tea. Close by the temple stand three small tea trees, which are tended by the family. They produce but _one_ catty each. These trees were originally planted thousands of years ago by divine hands, and they have never been known to yield more nor less than three catties (4-1/3 pounds).

The original paper of which this is a translation was given to me by Pwan-Suy-Lan, with a small canister of this famous tea; but on asking him if he considered it to have been originally planted by 'Joss,' he answered, he thought not, but that 'he own come'--that is to say, 'it sprang from the ground spontaneously.' It was known that the senior Hong merchant received the greatest quantity of it. As with Pwan-Suy-Lan and Pwankeiqua, Houqua's family had long been tea planters in the Bohea Hills, and were so when they first came to Canton, soon after foreign trade was confined to that port (as he frequently observed to me), about the year 1750.

Well-to-do Chinese drink black tea, but not usually _new_ tea. They keep it in closely-shut earthen jars for a couple of years before using it. This moderates the acrid or pungent quality which new tea possesses more or less, and renders it softer and more acceptable to the taste.

* * * * *

As if to make all things work comfortably, the setting in of the south-west monsoon brought foreign ships to Whampoa to receive cargoes of teas, which were meanwhile arriving from the interior, from August to November; and the north-east monsoon, as the ships loaded and left the port in succession, blew them down again. The only exceptions were known as 'out-of-season ships,' of which there were rarely over two yearly. These came east about _viâ_ Gilolo or Dampier's Straits, and they took away the last teas of a season. An occasional ship, trusting to good weatherly qualities, would take the Palawan passage _late_ in the year, beat up under the coast of Luconia to Cape Boleno, and then stretch across the China Sea; but it was dangerous from its numerous shoals, and a vessel would be dreadfully knocked about, even if successful. About 1830 or 1831 a bold and successful attempt to set the north-east monsoon at defiance was made by the _first_ opium clipper. She was called the 'Red Rover,' and was commanded by Captain Clifton, owned at, and from Calcutta. It was considered a most extraordinary performance.

The earliest shipments of a season were made from Whampoa by the East India Company, in November usually. They consisted of contracts made at the end of the previous year. They could be seen in large quantities stored in the Hongs, waiting the first ships to come in. These teas were currently known as 'winter teas,' and went to keep up the quantity of one year's supply which the Company was bound by its Charter to keep on hand in London at all times. Continuous shipments followed, so that by the end of the year or a little later their vessels were all away. To the United States green teas were exported almost solely until about 1828, when the first blacks were shipped; after that date they became a feature in the trade. Contracts were made for the new season's teas, either at fixed prices, or, if it was an object to get a ship off quickly, then the prices were governed by those of the opening of the market. The 'opening' of the tea season was eagerly looked forward to; and such was the contrast between the busy and the dull season that during the former we were repeatedly in the offices until two o'clock in the morning. The seasons of 1830 to 1838 were particularly active ones, and besides business with India, England, and the West Coast of America, our own house had frequently at Whampoa at one time ten to fifteen ships (in the year 1833 twenty-two), every one loading teas and silks for the United States, and, after 1833, vessels loading for England as well. It was during one of these years--I think 1834--that we despatched the _first_ English vessel from Whampoa that had yet carried a full cargo of free teas to New South Wales; she was named the 'Royal Saxon,' and was commanded by Captain Robert Towns.

The final loading of a ship consisted of all sorts of odds and ends reserved for the last moment, and shipped off by what was called the 'chow-chow chop.' More valuable cargo, not ready in time for the regular cargo boats, could also be sent to Whampoa by this conveyance. It was a great convenience, while all other shipping off was conducted on the strictness of the laws of the Medes and Persians, with documents without flaw.

When the market had been cleared of teas, the vessels despatched and the business of the season over, contracts were made with the Hong merchants for the next season. These contracts were often of great pecuniary value. They consisted of teas of certain qualities and kinds, in packages of chests and half-chests, sometimes at fixed prices, at others at the opening prices after they should have arrived, and deliverable at the customary time. No other record of these contracts was ever made than by each party booking them. No written agreements were drawn up and signed, nothing was sealed or attested. A wilful breach of contract never took place, and as regards quantity and quality, the Hong merchants fulfilled their part with scrupulous honesty and care. I am speaking of the first twenty years of my own personal experience.