Category: Travel Writing

The Fair Dominion: A Record of Canadian Impressions

Canada and its wonders might lie before us, yet it was not all joy there at the Liverpool docks, where we waited our opportunity to go on board S.S. _Empress of Britain_. For one thing, the sun on that August day of last year was so unusually warm that standing about with a ba...

Chapters

30. CHAPTER XXX

It was just before sunrise that I first saw Ottawa. I was on my way back from Vancouver, and had spent four successive days in the train, getting out only for minutes at a time...

25. CHAPTER XXV

We got back to Wilmer the following morning, and the problem then was--how to reach Golden again. The boat was due up the river some time in the day, but sandbanks do not encour...

8. CHAPTER VIII

Just as a man who knows mountains can in a little time describe the character of a mountain that is new to him, so a man who knows the country in general will soon find himself...

14. CHAPTER XIV

Any one who knows the plains of Canada is aware that they rise in three tiers, the rise having a westward trend, and that the scenery of them varies as greatly as does the veget...

16. CHAPTER XVI

There is vague talk at times about the Americanisation of Canada. Very dismal people talk about its Americanisation by force of arms. Minor pessimists think the change will come...

26. CHAPTER XXVI

I managed to get that train, and also a half bottle of rye whisky on the way to it, and sank into a seat in the smoking compartment, where I sat all soaked and miserable, suppin...

9. CHAPTER IX

From Montreal to Toronto is a pleasant run through a southern part of Canada. One passes orchards and woods and Smith's Falls, where bricks are made, and Peterborough, which has...

3. CHAPTER III

It was while we were still out to sea that I first realised what Canada might be like, and how different from England. We had been steaming for five days, and hitherto the Atlan...

4. CHAPTER IV

Quebec city is full of charms and memories. I am no lover of cities when they have grown so great that no one knows any longer what site they were built on, or what sort of a co...

7. CHAPTER VII

The second time I made use of this simple compliment I was again being driven by a French Canadian, and again it was on an extraordinarily bad road. But the vehicle was a sulky,...

13. CHAPTER XIII

Winnipeg introduces the West. 'If you like Winnipeg,' I had been told before I got there, 'you will like the West.' I had been somewhat disheartened by this information. I had p...

19. CHAPTER XIX

Everybody stops at Banff. The popular places of the world are not necessarily the most beautiful; and even if they start beautiful, they are not rendered more so by the accretio...

10. CHAPTER X

'You'd better go further than the Muskoka district, then,' he said. 'It's beginning to be rather a fashionable camping-ground--quite pleasant in its way. If you care to see char...

20. CHAPTER XX

Few books are complete nowadays without a chapter on the woman question. Man can be treated of in between; one would not as yet care to write a book without mentioning man in it...

5. CHAPTER V

Almost directly one lands in Canada, one feels the desire to move west. It is not that the east fails to attract and interest, or that a man might not spend many years in Quebec...

29. CHAPTER XXIX

As everybody knows who has been in Canada, there are two hotel systems in vogue there. By the one system you pay for your room and board separately, and this is called the Europ...

22. CHAPTER XXII

Emerald Lake is beautiful, but less beautiful, I think, than Lake Louise. It is more like a lake among mountains, and less like a lake in a dream. I went to it because I wanted...

6. CHAPTER VI

Ste. Anne de Beaupré is usually referred to as the Lourdes of Canada. When a metaphor of this sort is used it usually means that the spot referred to is in some way inferior to...

2. CHAPTER II

Apart from its other merits the steerage has this to its credit--every one is very friendly and affable. No one required an introduction before entering into conversation, and t...

15. CHAPTER XV

Countries, like cities, used to grow up and, if we stick to our metaphor, 'come out' anyhow. It is true there were people called statesmen who had at times bright ideas concerni...

17. CHAPTER XVII

There was a time when Englishmen got a very bad name in Canada. It was not to be wondered at. For a long time English youths, who came to be known as Remittance Men, used to be...

23. CHAPTER XXIII

It would have been harder to leave the Rockies if I had not been bound for the Selkirks, which have this advantage over the Rockies, that they are perhaps less known. That part...

21. CHAPTER XXI

Who thinks the Rockies only of a forbidding magnificence, of a grandeur always dark and fierce? Let him go to Lake Louise. The only phrase I know that fits it is that German one...

18. CHAPTER XVIII

For several days I had seen the Rockies far off--a black and jagged coil of mountains, that seemed at times almost to be moving like some prehistoric great scaly beast on its en...

27. CHAPTER XXVII

A diminutive Japanese who picked up my fairly heavy trunk, slung it over his shoulder and walked down the platform with it as though it were nothing but a shawl, was the first p...

24. CHAPTER XXIV

Behind Wilmer lies a part of the Selkirks which is known only to a few ranchers in the neighbourhood, and is scarcely accessible except from this point. We had spent two days in...

11. CHAPTER XI

Coming away from the French River, we spent a night at Sudbury, which lies in the midst of 'rich deposits of nickeliferous pyrrhotite.' Had I a brain capable of appreciating nic...

28. CHAPTER XXVIII

There are no lotus-lands attached to the Dominion, and will not be, unless we make over to it at some date the West Indies. But because Vancouver Island has a climate excelling...

12. CHAPTER XII

I sat in the tail of the train smoking, while Ontario dropped behind, league after league of thin trees growing out of the rock, of rock growing out of bog or lake, of bog or la...

1. CHAPTER I

Canada and its wonders might lie before us, yet it was not all joy there at the Liverpool docks, where we waited our opportunity to go on board S.S. _Empress of Britain_. For on...