Part 15

The belfry stage has an opening in each face. Those on the west and north sides (see Fig. 164) consist of large arches, each containing two smaller ones. They are alike, and measure about 3 feet 5 inches wide on the inside by about 5 feet 10 inches high to top of large arch, and about 4 feet 2 inches of daylight. They are divided with a central octagonal shaft, with round responds set well back in the wall. The shafts have all cushion capitals, those of the responds being slightly higher than those of the central shafts. The arches springing from these caps are very rudely formed. Each of these two windows is wider at the springing of the arch

than at the base by about 2½ inches, and the responds taper even more. The latter have no bases, while the centre shafts have only the merest fillet. The south window (Fig. 166) has a square lintel. It is about 3 feet 8½ inches wide by 4 feet 1½ inch high, and has no taper. The opening is divided by a mullion, placed flush with the outer face of the wall. The east window is a single light, about 1 foot 7 inches wide inside, increasing by 2 inches to the outside. It is 3 feet 11 inches high, and is 2 inches wider at the lintel than at the base. We have minutely described these windows, as they are peculiar in their differences, and are undoubtedly original. We know of no reason why the north and west ones should be so much more ornamental than the other two.

This tower appears to have stood quite isolated, like that of Dunblane Cathedral. There is nothing to indicate that it was attached to any building. There are no roof ragglets, but only the faintest mark caused by the pointing where the roof of the present ruin joined the walls. What position the tower occupied in regard to the early church, which

doubtless stood here, cannot now be ascertained. There seems to have been a doorway on the west face of the ground floor (see Fig. 164), about 4 feet wide, formed with a flat arch about 7 feet 6 inches above the present level of the ground; but it is doubtful if the door came to the level of the ground, which seems to have been raised in the course of centuries. A door opened into the church on the east side of the tower. It is about 3 feet wide by 6 feet 2 inches high, and has also a flat arch; but it is not easy to say whether these doors are original or are insertions. In the basement floor on the north and south sides there is a square-headed window, about 7 or 8 feet above the floor. The one on the north side is 12 inches wide by about 1 foot 10 inches high, and is divided by a mullion placed similarly to that in the south belfry window.

From the foregoing description, it seems not unlikely that the same ideas which prevailed with the builders of the round towers actuated the men who built this one. It probably contained the bells, and was used as a place of safety detached from the church.

The tower is enclosed on three sides by the church. From the east face of the tower the nave measures 46 feet 1 inch in length, and, including the tower, the central aisle of the nave measures 58 feet 10 inches in length by 20 feet 6 inches in width, and the total width inside, including the aisles, is 45 feet 5 inches. The total length of the church inside, including the chancel, is 105 feet 5 inches, and the width of the chancel is 16 feet.

The walls of the main nave are wider than the tower. The south aisle (see Fig. 166) is divided into three bays, and the north aisle into two bays. The piers are octagonal, with corresponding responds. There are no capitals on the piers, and the bases have simple splays; the splayed arches of the arcade die against the piers (Fig. 167). From the floor to the springing of the arches is 6 feet 7½ inches, and to the soffit of the arch at the apex is 17 feet 4½ inches. The chancel arch, which is 13 feet 11 inches wide, is treated in a similar manner to the other arches, and is a few feet higher.

The roof of the church is shown on the sketch by Nattes as being in one span; so that there does not appear to have been a clerestory over the nave arcade. Now only the foundation of the north aisle wall remains, and the chancel walls are reduced to a few feet in height; while at the west end they have almost disappeared, showing how badly used the place has been during this century. The entrance to the church was by a square-lintelled doorway in the centre of the south wall of the nave, and there appears to have been a priests’ doorway in the south side of the

chancel. There is a door through the east wall of the north aisle, which possibly led into what may have been a sacristy or vestry. At the west

end of the north aisle there seems to have been a chapel, lighted with a west window.

The windows of the church, of which three remain entire in the south

aisle (Fig. 168), contain three lights in each. They are of good design, and resemble windows in the north side of Dunblane Cathedral. The east window in the south aisle of the nave is completely demolished, and only one jamb remains of the west window of the north-west chapel. Over each of the end windows of the south aisle there are small pointed windows, widely splayed towards the

inside. One of these is shown in Fig. 164. An ambry at the east end of the south aisle, and a roughly-formed recess or ambry on the north side of the chancel, with the remains of a sedilia, complete the ecclesiastical appurtenances of the church, so far as they have been spared, if, indeed, the latter can be said to have been spared. It is situated in the usual place, near the east end of the chancel; but only a portion of the west corner remains. (Fig. 169). It is moulded, having a hollow set in a splay, with a stop chamfer above the seat level. How it was finished along the top nothing remains to indicate. There were three seats, graduated in height--an unusual feature in Scotland. The lowest seat, which is 1 foot 11 inches wide, is the narrowest; the centre one is 2 feet 3 inches; and the east one appears to have been the widest, but, the wall being broken down, the exact dimensions cannot be given.

Opposite the sedilia are the mutilated remains of two figures. (Fig. 170). They are life-size, and are cut out of one stone. They have

recently been protected by a strong iron hearse, and the following inscription on the wall behind tells who they were, viz.:--“In memory of Ada, daughter of Henry, Seneschal of Strathearn, and of Sir Muriel Drummond, first Knight of Concraig, who died 1362, whose effigies beneath have wasted by the long Lapse of Time. This Tablet has been placed by their Descendants, the Drummonds of Megginch, late of Lennoch, in Strathearn. A.D., 1880.”

The edifice, now in ruins, was built by Michael Ochiltree, who was first Dean, then Bishop of Dunblane. Keith (_Catalogue_) says:--“It is to be supposed that he built the Church of Muthill while he was Dean only, that church belonging to the deanery.” He was Dean in 1425, and Bishop in 1430. When he died is not known, but he was Bishop in 1445, and his successor, Robert Lauder, was Bishop in 1449. Spottiswood says that Ochiltree was “a wealthy prelate, and well esteemed; and so purchased to his see a great part of the forfeited lands of Strathearn, adorned the Cathedral of Dunblane, built the bridge of Knaik and Machant, with the Church of Muthill, and did in his time divers other good works.” He crowned James II. in Holyrood in 1437, and his effigy is shown in the nave of Dunblane Cathedral.

ST. SERF’S, DUNNING,[151] PERTHSHIRE.

The village of Dunning is situated in Lower Strathearn, about 1¾ mile south-east of the railway station of the same name. The following historical facts connected with the church and district are from a scarce “History of Dunning,” by the late Rev. John Wilson, minister of the parish.

“Dunning,” Mr. Wilson says, “when first heard of in authentic history, formed part of the ancient Stewartry or Earldom of Strathearn, and dates back to a remote antiquity,” the Earls or Courts Palatine of Strathearn dating from before the Norman Conquest. When the foreign immigrants arrived in Scotland, in the twelfth century, under David I., “there were families of the ancient Scottish or Celtic blood who held their own, and maintained their native customs amid the new-fangled innovations of the Saxon and Norman chivalry. One of the most famous of these native magnates was Malis, Earl of Strathearn, who acted a prominent part in the disastrous Battle of the Standard.”

In the course of time this reserve on the part of the native nobles wore away, and we find that Gilbert, the grandson of Malis, “took charters from the king for the lands which his fathers had held by their swords. He connected himself by marriage with the new-comers, and rivalled the most zealous of the followers of King David in his munificence to the Church.” He “richly endowed the neighbouring Abbey of Canons Regular at Inchaffray, annexing to it the tithes of many of the surrounding parishes,” as is shown by the foundation charter of the Abbey in the library of the Earl of Kinnoull, “dated in the year 1200 from the incarnation of our Lord, in the thirty-fifth year of the reign of King William.”

In a charter of confirmation, nineteen years later, Gilbert, in addition to his former liberality, grants to Inchaffray, “_Ecclesiam sancti servani de Dunnyne_,” the “church dedicated to St. Servanus, or Serf, at Dunning;” so that we have here proof of the existence of a church at Dunning in the year 1219, and it may be inferred that it did not exist in the year 1200, from its not being mentioned in the charters of that year. The date, therefore, of the erection of this church is narrowed to the early years of the thirteenth century, and there need be no hesitation in assigning to that time the present tower and certain other portions of

the structure. This tower, although similar in general form to those at Muthill and Dunblane, is considerably later in date. It is an example of Norman work continuing to be used in Scotland for some years after 1200, the pointed form of the arch being the only indication of the coming change of style.

The tower (Fig. 171), which is of Norman architecture, is placed at the west end of the church (Fig. 172). It is built in three unequal tapering stages, and without buttresses, to a height of about 75 feet to the ridge. The two stories above the church roof have small square-lintelled windows, but in the belfry stage double windows are introduced (Fig. 173). Both lights are contained within a plain square-edged round arch, without imposts, and the two lights, which have plain round arches, are separated by a central shaft with cushion cap. The crow-stepped gablets of the saddle-backed roof are probably of later date, but they, no doubt, indicate the original style of finishing the tower. The turret stair, shown on plan (see Fig. 172) stops about half-way up, access above being obtained by wooden ladders. The elaborately-carved and pointed archway (Fig. 174), opening from the tower into the church, is a most noteworthy

feature, and was quite concealed from view till disclosed during the course of some recent repairs. Figs. 175, 176, and 177 show the details of this archway.

Considerable portions of the old church still remain. The building,

as it now stands, is 68 feet long by 25 feet wide on the outside at the east end, and 26 feet 9 inches at the west end. The total length, including the tower, is 82 feet, the height of which to the ridge is 75 feet.

The church has been greatly altered at various times; an aisle has been added on the north side, and the ancient north doorway (Fig. 178) has been disfigured and almost concealed by an outside staircase being built across it. The west gable wall of the church, however, and a good part of the north wall and the east wall are original. The ancient corbels at the north parapet still survive (see Fig. 178), and the raggle of the original roof is seen against the east side of the tower (see Fig. 173). It is thus quite evident that the existing building is in great part on the site of the _Ecclesia_

_sancti servani de Dunnyne_. There appears to have been a chancel, as Mr. Thomson informs us that during alterations about twenty-five years ago the bases of the pillars were found _in situ_.

CRUGGLETON CHURCH, WIGTONSHIRE.

The parish of Cruggleton now forms part of the parish of Sorbie, with which it was united in the seventeenth century. The old church of Cruggleton is situated near the coast about three miles from Garleston,

and about the same distance from Whithorn, to the priory at which it belonged before the Reformation. The church of Cruggleton, being abandoned, fell into decay. The view (Fig. 179), for which we have to thank Mr. Galloway, shows its condition before it was recently restored by the Marquis of Bute, under Mr. Galloway’s careful superintendence. The building is still surrounded by its burial-ground. The plan (Fig. 181) shows a simple oblong church, 34 feet in length by 20 feet in width, with an oblong chancel 20 feet 3 inches long by 16 feet wide. The side walls were considerably damaged, but enough of them remained

to enable the outline to be distinctly traced. The best preserved and most important feature was the chancel arch, which was 8 feet in width. Its architecture, which was extremely simple, was of the early Norman style. It had three orders on the side next the nave (see Fig. 179), each side having two nook shafts, built in courses and provided with cushion caps. The inner jambs were plain, and the aperture in the wall was simply faced with a square ingoing of ashlar, and enclosed on the side next the chancel (Fig. 180) with a single square-edged arch springing from a very plain impost.

Mr. Muir points out that when he visited the church the walls, “except the west one, which wants the gable, are at about their full height; but

most of the dressed stones have been torn from the corners of both compartments, the chancel arch and other parts easily got at.” He could not discern traces of there having

ever been more than two windows, “that on the east a small and very plain round headed one, widely splayed within, and the west one of the same shape, but much broader, and set square in the wall.” In the restoration carried out by Mr. Galloway great care has been taken to restore every part (so far as precedent could be obtained) to its original condition. As an example of Mr. Galloway’s patient research we may quote his account of the steps by which the original design of the south doorway was ascertained. “To begin with, a stone or two of the internal sconsions remained _in situ_. This gave the position and size internally of the long demolished doorway. Part of the paving and massive rubble steps at the outside also remained. Of the external features there seemed at first to be no trace. The discovery of one stone threw a flood of light on it. This was the base of a column which had never been shifted out of its position, but simply lifted and laid on its side, with the bottom bed outwards, so as to look like an ordinary courser. I also found about the same place several plain arch stones, also a capital of simple form, and from these materials, and especially the base found _in situ_, there could be no doubt that the external features were a plain ring like that of the chancel arch carried on engaged columns. In taking down some of a dry stone dyke a large rybat and an arch stone checked and chamfered were found, which could only be part of the actual doorway. The only uncertainty is the height; the original may have been lower, but we cannot be certain. I adhered to the proportions usual in other examples.” Fig. 182 shows the restored doorway, “a recovery out of the long forgotten past.”

MONYMUSK CHURCH, ABERDEENSHIRE.

A few remains of the ancient church of Monymusk still survive and are incorporated with the modern church now erected on the old site. The village is situated in the valley of the Don, about one mile from the station of the branch railway to Alford, and is about seven miles up the valley from Kintore Junction. Monymusk is a place of great antiquity, being one of the oldest seats of the Culdees in the North of Scotland. A church is said to have been founded here by Malcolm Canmore, who

vowed it to St. Andrew, and marked off the tower with his spear before engaging in battle against the Mormaer of Moray. Dr. Skene[152] points out that the community of Keledei at Monimusc were connected with St. Andrews, having probably been founded by the Bishop of St. Andrews. The church here, like that at St. Andrews, was dedicated to St. Mary. The Culdees first appear at Monymusk in 1170, and it is said that Gilchrist, Earl of Mar (1199-1207), built them a convent on condition that they should subject themselves to canonical rule. Disputes having arisen between the Culdees and the Bishop of St. Andrews, an arrangement was finally come to, by which the Keledei were allowed to retain their lands and dues, they promising to do nothing to the prejudice of the church of St. Andrews or the parish church of Monymusk. They were thus brought under the more direct control of the Bishop who is called the

founder of their house, and they were thus assimilated to the state into which the Keledei of St. Andrews had been brought. Like them, they consisted of a prior or head, with twelve members, and, like them, were excluded from all parochial functions. In 1245 the Keledei of Monymusk had entirely disappeared, and instead we have a confirmation by Pope Innocent II. to the “prior and convent of Monymusk of the Order of St. Augustine.”

The remains of the ancient Norman church establish the antiquity of the foundation. These consist of the lower part of the tower and the chancel arch. The church, as it now stands (Fig. 183), is a plain oblong modern structure 45 feet in length by 20 feet 3 inches in width internally, with a north wing or aisle, and galleries in the north, west, and east divisions entered from outside stairs. The ancient tower at the west end and the ancient chancel arch at the east end clearly fix the length of the original structure, and the modern side walls probably mark the position of the original side walls. To the east of the chancel arch there is an apartment about 15 feet square, used as a vestry, and in continuation of this structure to the eastward are the roofless walls of a building 34 feet in length. This enclosure is used as a burial-place. It has a modern doorway in the north wall, and all the walls are so covered with ivy that no traces of ancient work, if such exist, can be discovered.

The west tower (Fig. 184) is 22 feet by 23 feet externally. It appears to have been almost entirely rebuilt, except the doorway in the west wall, which seems to be ancient. It has plain square jambs and round arch head, with hood mould enclosing the arch stones. The opening in the west wall of the tower leading into the church has been by a round archway 9 feet in width, now built up. This wall has been much altered, but there appear to have been Norman imposts to the arch. The chancel arch (Fig. 185) is 8 feet 6 inches wide. It has had a large attached centre shaft and two smaller side shafts in each jamb. The north centre shaft has been removed and a wooden substitute introduced. The shafts have all had Norman caps of the cushion pattern (see enlarged sketch in Fig. 185), but they are now so battered as to be scarcely distinguishable. The arch is much concealed under the east gallery. To the right of it is a monumental tablet of the seventeenth century, which bears the arms of Leslie and Forbes impaled.

From the style of the architecture of the Norman remains, it seems most probable that they form part of the convent erected by the Earl of Mar in the beginning of the thirteenth century.

ST. BRANDON’S, BIRNIE, MORAYSHIRE.

Birnie is believed to have been the original seat of the Bishop of Moray before he migrated, in the first place, to Kineddar, then to Spynie, and finally to Elgin. Simeon, the fourth Bishop, was buried here in 1184. The church is situated about three miles south from Elgin, near the river Lossie, and the road to it from Elgin passes through a pleasant, well cultivated country, diversified with numerous undulations and woods.

The church, which is dedicated to St. Brandon, stands on the top of a small alluvial hill and is conspicuous from a distance. It is evidently ancient, and, although perfectly plain externally, impresses one at sight, from the nature of its masonry, as being of Norman workmanship. The stone work is all of square dressed freestone ashlar, both externally and internally. The west wall was rebuilt in 1734 (the date on the belfry), when the church was shortened by a few feet, and although the old materials were reused, the inferiority of the new workmanship to the old is very apparent.

As it now stands, the edifice (Fig. 186) consists of nave and chancel, without aisles. The former measures 42 feet long by 18 feet 6 inches wide internally, and the latter is 16 feet long by 13 feet wide. The nave has a doorway in the south wall, and another immediately opposite it in the north wall. The chancel has a small round-headed window in each of the north and south walls, and it is remarkable that there is no window in the east wall. There is also a doorway in the south wall of the chancel, which has evidently been added or enlarged at a comparatively late period. Every part of the building, both externally and internally, is perfectly plain. The only portion which presents the smallest approach to ornament is the chancel arch (Fig. 187). The opening is 7 feet 6 inches in width, and is flanked at each side by a substantial semi-circular attached shaft, which has a moulded base and a heavy Norman cap of the pattern founded on the cushion, with