Part 4

The culture of the Pine, Mr. Speechly observes, has already been treated of by many persons, who have varied much in the methods they have recommended. Far from meaning to depreciate their labours, he adds, “my advice and pretensions rest solely upon the success which I have met with in my experiments.” He went to serve the Duke of Portland in 1767, and published his book after eleven years’ experience. He continued at Welbeck till about the year 1800.

_Form of House._ The great object of Mr. Speechly seems to have been to combine the culture of the Pine and Vine; and for this purpose he adopted one form both for his succession and fruiting-house; training Vines up the rafters, and on the upper part of the back wall.

In many places small stoves of a particular construction (in the which the Pines stand very near the glass) are erected solely for the purpose of _Fruiting-houses_. These, from their being always kept up to a high degree of heat, are by gardeners usually termed _Roasters_. (fig. 7.) When there is such conveniency, it is customary, when any Pine-plants show fruit in the large stoves, to remove such plants (especially the most promising) directly into the fruiting-house; where, from the high degree of heat kept, they generally swell their fruit astonishingly.

It is observable that Pines always succeed best in stoves that have been newly erected; on which account, some of the more curious in the cultivation of this fruit have judged it expedient to pull down and rebuild their Pine-stoves every ten or twelve years. Although I cannot subscribe to such expensive mode of procedure, I shall here beg to state the many advantages that accrue from keeping Pine-stoves in good and proper repair.

First, by keeping the flues clean from soot, and air-proof, they will heat the house better, and much less fuel will serve.

Secondly, by a due attention to keeping the inside of the roof, &c. duly painted, and by constantly white-washing the walls and flues in every part of the house, the plants will be greatly benefited, both from having a better reflection and from cleanliness.

A further advantage in stoves newly built may also here be remarked. Where tan only is used, the beds are always filled at the first with new tan entire; but afterwards, constantly with new and old tan intermixt.

Lastly, it is probable that stoves, newly erected, derive their greatest benefit from the good condition of the glass-work; for, however well it may be kept in repair afterwards, it is certain that there never is so much light in an old stove as was at the first. Dirt will find its way into the cavities between the squares, &c. which, obstructing the sun’s rays, darkens and gives a gloominess to the stove.

He describes a Pine-stove to be heated by steam, in which the vapour is admitted to a brick vault, over which is the bed of tan or earth; this is surrounded by a path and smoke-flues, exactly as in the common form of hot-house.

He also gives a plan of a furnace for burning lime as well as heating hot-houses, as erected at Billing, in Northamptonshire, and at Lady E. Ponsonby’s, at Bishop’s Court, in Ireland; and, subsequently, at various other places in that country.

In these _kiln-furnaces_, (fig. 8.) the heat, after passing through the limestone in the kiln or crucible (_a_), enters the flue (_e_), and passes through it in the usual manner. The grate on which the fuel burns (_d_) is contrived to draw out by means of a grooved frame (_c_), as soon as the lime in the crucible is burned, which then falls into the ash-pit (_b_), and is removed.

_Soil._ Alter numerous experiments made with mixtures, of cow, deer, sheep, pigeon, hen, and rotten stable dung, with soot, and other manures, in various proportions, with fresh pasture-soil of different qualities, he says, I can venture to recommend the following:

In the month of April or May, let the sward or turf of a pasture, where the soil is a strong rich loam, and of a reddish colour, be pared off, not more than two inches thick: let it then be carried to the pens in sheep-pastures, where sheep are frequently put for the purpose of dressing, which places should be cleared of stones, &c. and made smooth; then let the turf be laid, with the grass-side downwards, and only one course thick; here it may continue two, three, or more months, during which time it should be turned with a spade once or twice, according as the pen is more or less frequented by the above animals; who, with their urine and dung, will enrich the turf to a great degree, and their feet will reduce it, and prevent any weeds from growing.

After the turf has lain a sufficient time, it should be brought to a convenient place, and laid in a heap for at least six months, (if a twelvemonth it will be the better,) being frequently turned during that time; and after being made pretty fine with a spade, but not screened, it will be fit for use.

In places where the above mode cannot be adopted, the mixture may be made by putting a quantity of sheep’s dung (or deer’s dung, if it can be got) and turf together. But here it must be observed, that the dung should be collected from the pastures when newly fallen; also, that a larger proportion should be added, making an allowance for the want of urine.

1. Three wheelbarrows of the above reduced sward or soil; one barrow of vegetable mould from decayed oak-leaves, or leaves of other deciduous trees, and half a barrow of coarse sand, make a compost-mould for _Crowns_, _Suckers_, and _Young Plants_.

2. Three wheelbarrows of swarth, reduced as above, two barrows of vegetable mould, one barrow of coarse sand, and one-fourth of a barrow of soot, make a compost-mould for _fruiting plants_.

The above composts should be made some months before they are wanted, and very frequently turned during that time, that the different mixtures may get well and uniformly incorporated.

It is observable, that in hot-houses, where Pine-plants are put in a light soil, the young plants frequently go into fruit the first season, and are then what gardeners term _runners_; on the contrary, where plants are put in a strong rich soil, they will continue to grow, and not fruit even at a proper season: therefore, from the nature of the soil from whence the sward was taken, the quantity of sand used must be proportioned; when the loam is not strong, sand will be unnecessary in the compost for young plants.

I conceive that the _urine_ of sheep contains a greater quantity of mucilage, or oleaginous matter, than the _dung_ of those animals: and this opinion is founded upon observations made in sheep-pastures; where, during the summer months, the effects of both are easily distinguished. I also presume that the reduced sward in the pens receives a very considerable degree of fertility from the feet of the sheep.

Where oak-leaves are not used in hot-houses instead of bark, the vegetable-mould may be made by laying a quantity of them together, in a heap sufficiently large to ferment, as soon as they fall from the trees: they should be covered for some time at first, to prevent the upper leaves from being blown away. The heap should afterwards be frequently turned, and kept clean from weeds: the leaves will be two years before they are sufficiently reduced to be fit for use.

I shall just observe, that it will be proper to keep the different heaps of compost at all times clean from weeds, to turn them frequently, and to round them up in long rainy seasons. If covered, the better: but they should be spread abroad in continued frosts, and in fine weather.

_General Management._ The pots he recommends are:

_Inches diameter _Inches_ at the top._ _deep._

1. Pots for full-sized crowns and suckers 6 5½

2. Pots for plants to fruit the following season when shifted in March 8½ 7

3. Pots for fruiting plants 11½ 10

I wish it to be understood that the above dimensions are only used for full-sized plants, at their different periods: plants below the standard must have less-sized pots in proportion.

Sometimes, he observes, hot-beds are made for the suckers. When that is the case, they should be prepared at least fourteen days before the suckers are taken off, in order that the violence of the heat may be over: after the bed has been made ten days, it should be levelled, and covered eight or ten inches with tan; and after this has lain four or five days, in case the heat of the bed should not be violent, the pots may be plunged into it.

In respect of temperature and water, he advises only a moderate heat, and not much water, during the winter months; but an increase of both, accompanied with more air, as the season advances.

There is nothing, he says, so prejudicial to the Pine-apple plant, (insects and an over-heat of the tan excepted,) as forcing them to grow by making large fires, and keeping the hot-house warm at an improper season; which is injudiciously done in many hot-houses. It is inconsistent with reason, and against nature, to force a tropical plant in this climate in a cold dark season, such as generally happens here in the months of November and December; and plants so treated will in time show the injury done them: if large plants for fruiting, they generally show very small fruit-buds with weak stems; and, if small plants, they seldom make much progress in the beginning of the next summer.

As the length of the days, and power of the sun increases, the plants will begin to grow, and from that time it will be absolutely necessary to keep them in a regular growing state; for if young plants receive a check afterwards, it generally causes many of them to go into fruit. From the time they begin to grow they will demand a little water: once in a week or ten days, as the weather may prove more or less favourable, will be sufficient till the middle of March, which is the most eligible season to shift them in their pots. If that work is done sooner, it will prevent the plants from striking freely; and if deferred longer, it will check them in their summer’s growth.

In this shifting I always shake off the whole of the ball of earth, and cut off all the roots that are of a black colour, carefully preserving such only as are white and strong. I then put such plants as are intended to fruit the next season into second-sized pots with fresh mould entire.

The bed at this time should be renewed with a little fresh tan, in order to promote its heating, and the pots plunged therein immediately. The hot-house should be kept pretty warm till the heat of the tan begins to arise, as it will be the means of causing the plants to strike both sooner and stronger. As soon as the heat of the bed begins to arise, it will be proper to give the plants a sprinkling of water over their leaves; and as soon as they are perceived to grow, they will require a little water once a week for a short time, and afterwards twice a week till the next time of shifting them in their pots.

During the summer months give the plants plenty of air whenever the weather is warm, and water properly, as has been described: let the pots be kept in a regular constant heat, and clean from weeds; but above all, avoid an over-heat of the tan. Some persons plunge a thermometer in the tan, with the ball of its tube as deep as the bottom of the Pine-pots; and by repeated observations, a point is fixed for the spirits in the part of the tube above the surface of the tan, to show when the pots should be raised. Whether the above, or the putting _watch-sticks_ in the tan (which is the most common method) is practised, too much attention cannot be had whenever there is the appearance of too violent a heat in the tan.

If the above directions are strictly attended to, the plants will be grown to a large size by the beginning of August; when they should be shifted into the largest-sized fruiting-pots, with their roots and balls entire.

But it will be proper here to observe, that in some hot-houses it is found difficult to get plants of the Antigua and Sugar-loaf kinds to fruit at a proper age; and, in that case, I advise the shaving off the roots on the outside, and reducing the balls of _them_ at this shifting. A greater proportion of sand should also be added to the compost, which will be the means of bringing them into a fruiting state at a proper season.

The disproportion of the second-sized and fruiting-pots is so great, as to admit of a good quantity of fresh mould at this shifting, which is absolutely necessary to support the plants till their fruit becomes ripe: it also affords an opportunity of performing the operation of shifting the plants without injuring their roots. As there will be a large space between the ball and the side of the pot, the mould may be put round the ball with great ease; whereas, when plants are shifted into pots only a small size larger than those from whence they were taken, they are generally much injured by the operation of shifting: besides, even with the greatest care, there will frequently be spaces left hollow between the ball and the side of the pot.

A little fresh tan should be added, and the bed forked up, but not to the bottom of the pit, as the tan is liable to heat violently at this season of the year; of which when there is the least appearance, the pots should be raised immediately. The delay of doing it one day may be attended with very bad consequences.

The plants will continue to grow very fast this and the following month, and should therefore be watered pretty plentifully, at least twice a week; and, in the summer waterings, it should be observed, that it will be of great service to the plants to be watered once a fortnight all over their leaves. If the month of October be wet and cold, the plants should not be watered above twice in that month; but if fine and clear, once a week: and here ends the watering of the fruiting plants for the season. I never give them any water in the months of November and December; and during that time I keep the hot-house in a cold state, but a bottom heat is always required; therefore the tan should have been renewed, and the old part of it screened about the end of October or beginning of November: from which time the bed will generally retain a moderate warmth till the beginning of January, when the tan should again be renewed. From that time the hot-house should be kept a few degrees warmer; and, as soon as the tan begins to ferment, the plants may have a little water given them.

In this month (January) some of the plants will appear set for fruiting, which may be distinguished by the short leaves in their centres; and from that time they should be moderately watered (till the middle of March) and the hot-house should be kept pretty warm; a little air should, however, be admitted, whenever the weather will permit.

About the middle of March it will be proper to renew the tan-bed, and, at the same time, the plants should be divested of a few of their bottom leaves; the mould on the top of the pots should be taken off as deep as can be done without injuring the roots, and the pots filled up with fresh compost-earth, which will add to the vigour of the plants, as well as give a neatness to the whole when finished.

It is very injurious to the plants, and greatly retards the swelling of the fruit, to remove them after this season; therefore, in case the heat of the bed should decline, a fresh heat may be got without moving the plants, by taking out the tan betwixt the pots as deep as possible, and filling that space up with fresh tan.--This method is practised by some even at an earlier season.

The plants at this season will demand a kind, lively bottom heat; and whenever the weather will permit, a great quantity of air should be admitted into the hot-house, the want of a due proportion of which would cause the stems of the fruit to draw themselves weak, and grow tall; after which the fruit never swells kindly.

As the fruit and suckers begin to advance in size, the plants will require plenty of water to support them, which may be given them at least twice, and sometimes three times a week; but too much should not be given them at one time; it is better to give them less at a time, and oftener.

Sticks should be provided to support the fruit before it is grown too large; and, in tying them, care should be taken to leave bandage-room sufficient, making allowance for the swelling of the fruit.

When the suckers are grown to about one foot in length, they should be taken off in the same manner that has been described; and from that time the fruit will swell very fast. As soon as the fruit appears full swelled, the watering such plants as produce them should cease: but it is too general a practice (in order to have the fruit as large as can be got) to continue the watering too long; which causes the fruit to be filled with an insipid, watery, and ill-flavoured juice.

It is easy to know when the Pine becomes ripe by its yellow colour; yet they do not all change in the same manner, but most generally begin at the lower part of the fruit. Such fruit should not be cut till the upper part also begins to change, which sometimes will be many days after, especially in the Sugar-loaf kinds. Sometimes the fruit will first begin to change in the middle, which is a certain indication of its being ripe: such fruit should be cut immediately.

Having thus laid down the culture of the Pine-apple plant, whether raised from seed, by crowns, or suckers, to its final perfection in the fruit, I shall now subjoin some hints and observations; most of which, I hope, will be of use.

In treating of the culture of the Pine-apple plant, some persons have recommended the shifting of the plants, from first to last, with their balls entire; also the shifting of them oftener than I have here recommended. These methods I disapprove, for the following reasons:

First, it is observable that the Pine-plant begins to make its roots at the very bottom of the stem; and, as the plant increases in size, fresh roots are produced from the stem, still higher and higher, and the bottom roots die in proportion: so that, if a plant in the greatest vigour be turned out of its pot as soon as the fruit is cut, there will be found at the bottom a part of the stem, several inches in length, naked, destitute of roots, and smooth. Now, according to the above method, the whole of the roots which the plant produces being permitted to remain on the stem to the last, the old roots decay and turn mouldy, to the great detriment of those afterwards produced.

Secondly, the first ball, which remains with the plant full two years, by length of time will become hard, cloddy, and exhausted of its nourishment, and must therefore prevent the roots afterwards produced from growing with that freedom and vigour which they would do in fresher and better mould.

Thirdly, the old ball continually remaining after the frequent shiftings, it will be too large, when put into the fruiting-pot, to admit of a sufficient quantity of fresh mould to support the plant till its fruit becomes ripe, which is generally a whole year from the last time of shifting.

It is an object of emulation amongst gardeners to try to excel their neighbours in the size of their Pines. In order to produce very large fruit, I recommend the following method, which I have often practised with great success.

In the month of April or May, it is easy to distinguish, in a stove of Pines, which plants promise to produce the best fruit: this is not always the case with the largest. A few of the most promising being marked, a small iron rod, made with a sharp angular point, may be thrust down the centre of the sucker; which, being turned two or three times round, will drill out the centre, and prevent its growing. This must be performed on all the suckers as fast as they appear. Thus the plant being plentifully supplied with water, and having nothing to support but the fruit, will sometimes grow amazingly large. But this method should not be practised on too many plants, as it is attended with the entire loss of all the suckers.

It being a practice with some to fruit the Pine by setting the _pot_ in water; while others produce the fruit by setting the _plant_ only in water, (in a similar manner to what is often practised with Hyacinths and other bulbous roots,) the passing over these methods in silence may, by some, be deemed an omission: but as neither of these methods can be reduced to practice with any kind of success, except on fruiting plants, and just in the hot summer months, when the situation of the plant ought to be very near to the glass, they do not seem calculated for general practice.

However, as some persons are inclined to suppose that Pines raised by these methods are generally of superior quality, I shall just beg to say, that the first method, of setting the _pot_ in water, is greatly to be preferred, and that the best time for adopting it is immediately after the plants have shown fruit in the spring.

Mr. Speechly is minute in his directions as to air, water, the use of leaves instead of bark, the application of fire, heat, &c.; but as all these instructions are more to be considered as applicable to the general management of the hot-house, than the particular treatment of the Pine-apple, we do not think it advisable to trouble the reader with their perusal.

_Insects._ Those which more immediately infest the Pine, were first described in Speechly’s book. They are all species or varieties of the Linnean order Hemiptera, and genus Coccus. The first is the _brown turtle bug_, _Coccus hesperidum_ (_Fig. 9._) The female has at first the appearance of a flat scale (_a_); afterwards, when depositing its eggs, it becomes fixed and turgid (_b_); these eggs (_c_) are hatched under the mother, who soon afterwards dies; the young insects, seen under a magnifier, appear like turtles in miniature (_d_). Only the males, (_e_), which are few in proportion to the females, have wings; these devour nothing, and having performed the office of impregnation, die.

The _white scaly bug_, _C. hesp. var._ α (_f_ to _l_) bears a considerable resemblance to the above; but the scale (_f_) is somewhat smaller; the colour is white, and the males or flies (_l_) not so large as those of the brown.

The _white mealy crimson-tinged bug_, _C. hesp. var._ ϐ (_n_ and _m_) differs from the former in being larger and crimson-coloured. Speechly considers it as viviparous. This and the former species are much the most pernicious.

Mr. Speechly’s mode of destroying these and other insects, being much too elaborate for modern practice, it would be a waste of time to repeat his processes. Simple modes are always the most effectual, and nothing can be more so than M’Phail’s mode of applying the steam of water; or Baldwin’s, that of horse-dung.