Category: Adventure

The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea

The Start--Swans and Spectators--The First Weir and First Luncheon--Society for the Preservation of the Banks of the Danube--Tuttlingen and Max Schneckenburger--First Public Performance at a Weir--First Night in Camp and a Spoiled Breakfast--Monastery of Beuron and its Monks--...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I

2. CHAPTER II

The Start--Swans and Spectators--The First Weir and First Luncheon--Society for the Preservation of the Banks of the Danube--Tuttlingen and Max Schneckenburger--First Public Per...

3. CHAPTER III

4. CHAPTER IV

Lauingen; Its Architecture and its People--Blenheim and Höchstädt--Donauwörth--Lumber-rafts and our Narrow Escape--Virtuous Vohburg--Roman Remains and one of the Scenes in the “...

5. CHAPTER V

6. CHAPTER VI

Fourth of July at Passau--The Austrian Frontier--Through the Gorge in Rainy Weather--A Curious Ferry--A Brief Halt at Linz and a Camp at the Mouth of the Traun--Shooting the Rap...

7. CHAPTER VII

8. CHAPTER VIII

9. CHAPTER IX

Pressburg and the River below--Monotony of Landscape and our Introduction to Dust and Mud--Gran; Its Situation and Attractions--Visegrád--Our Hospitable Reception--General Görge...

10. CHAPTER X

Budapest almost our Capua--The Bridges and Baths--The Great Hungarian Plain--Cheery River Folk--Duna Földvár--A Surprise Picnic and a Severe Storm--In the Heart of Hungary--Mohá...

11. CHAPTER XI

12. CHAPTER XII

A Watermelon Metropolis--Our Fleet taken for Torpedo-boats--A Gypsy Queen--Peterwardein and Carlowitz--Busy Life on the Banks--In Sight of Belgrade--Evening in Camp--The Servian...

13. CHAPTER XIII

Semendria and its Great Castle--Our Passports are Useless--Bazias and the Entrance to the Carpathians--The Emperor’s Birthday on a Gunboat--Castle of Golubáç--Drenkova and the F...

14. CHAPTER XIV

Improvements to Navigation--Rapids of the Jur--The Kasan Defile--Remarkable River Scenery--Trajan’s Tablet and Old Roman Roadway--Orsova and the Herkulesbad--Ada Kaleh, the Turk...

15. CHAPTER XV

16. CHAPTER XVI

17. CHAPTER XVII

18. CHAPTER XVIII

19. CHAPTER XIX

20. CHAPTER XX

21. CHAPTER XXI

We reach Vilkoff and Renew our Struggles with the Custom-house--A Remote Town--The Sturgeon Fishery and Caviar--We Push on to the Black Sea--A Gale is Blowing, and We make a Lan...

22. CHAPTER I

At the head of a pleasant little valley high up among the bristling mountain-tops of the Black Forest, a tiny stream of clear water comes tumbling down the rocks, and, gathering...

23. CHAPTER II

The final preparations for our cruise occupied more time than we anticipated, and it was quite eight o’clock before the canoes touched water at the foot of the slippery stone st...

24. CHAPTER III

Our camp was pitched very near the boundary line between Baden and Hohenzollern, and a short distance above Sigmaringen, the residential town of Prince Hohenzollern. We were pre...

25. CHAPTER IV

It was on Saturday, June 27th, at about five o’clock in the afternoon that we left Ulm, and the following day about noon we reached Lauingen, having spent most of the forenoon i...

26. CHAPTER V

The busiest part of Ratisbon is the twelfth-century stone bridge which, from daybreak until dark, resounds to the tramp of heavy-footed peasants, and to the clatter of farm wago...

27. CHAPTER VI

The poplars of Passau came in sight early on the morning of the Fourth of July, but we had no intention of celebrating the day, particularly as one-third of our party took only...

28. CHAPTER VII

The harmonizing mists of early morning silvered the tawny surface of the Danube, and softened the jagged outlines of Dürrenstein, on the crowning pinnacle of the rocky spur whic...

29. CHAPTER VIII

Vienna offers an unsightly water-front to the Danube navigator. A succession of huge passenger and railway bridges span the river, and but for the constant busy traffic seen upo...

30. CHAPTER IX

Sturdy girls, returning from market with veritable Eiffel towers of empty tubs on their backs, strode up the steep banks from the landing as we fled from the enervating luxuries...

31. CHAPTER X

There is the same indefinable charm about Budapest that there is in the gypsy music. This charm is a spiritual one. The situation of the city is delightful, the streets are clea...

32. CHAPTER XI

A few miles below Mohács is the upper mouth of the Franzens Canal which joins the Danube with the Theiss, giving an easy outlet for the produce of the great fertile plain, facil...

33. CHAPTER XII

We had crossed the line of active melon consumption soon after leaving Budapest; we had for days revelled in a superabundance of them, and, indeed, had quite become accustomed t...

34. CHAPTER XIII

From the heights of Belgrade we had seen the blue summits of mountains far away to the south--the outlying spurs of the great Carpathian range--and having threaded a tortuous wa...

35. CHAPTER XIV

The rocky shoulder of Greben is all scarred and torn by the cuttings which are gradually eating off its rugged and dangerous spur. Farther down-stream a breakwater is in course...

36. CHAPTER XV

At noon of the day following our introduction to the system of keeping the frontier in Roumania, we heard the sound of rifle-firing and the beating of drums in the Servian villa...

37. CHAPTER XVI

On one of the pleasantest reaches, a short way below the mouth of the magnificent stream which marks the Bulgarian frontier, the Roumanian town of Kalafat, with its great church...

38. CHAPTER XVII

Between Lom Palanka and Sistova, a stretch of about 150 miles--which, by-the-way, we paddled in less than two days and a half--there are only three towns on the river, Cibar Pal...

39. CHAPTER XVIII

Ten miles below Silistria the Roumanian frontier crosses the river, and the district of the Dobrudscha begins. To our surprise, the line of pickets still continued along the lef...

40. CHAPTER XIX

The navigation of the Danube from Galatz to the mouth is controlled and regulated by an international commission, which was called into existence by the importance of the commer...

41. CHAPTER XX

We did not hesitate to follow the left-hand branch at the Chatal d’Ismail, and, rounding the sharp bend to the north, we soon entered a great wilderness of reeds and willows. Fo...

42. CHAPTER XXI

For the next two hours we paddled steadily between banks covered with tall reeds, waving and rustling in the wind, occasionally startling broods of young ducks out of their hidi...