Part 1

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THE CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT

NOTE ABOUT "CURRIES" IN "SATURDAY REVIEW," OCTOBER 22, 1887.

Everybody who likes Curry, and who can get it (the pamphlet, not the Curry), should invest in a little pamphlet by "DANIEL SANTIAGOE, son of Francis Daniel, butler and fiddler, of Colombo, Ceylon, and the Ceylon Court, Royal Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool." It is written in delightful pigeon-English (or whatever other bird may be more appropriate to Ceylon's isle), is quite unpretentious, avows the author's very legitimate, and, indeed, laudable desire to "make a small fortune" by its sale, and contains admirable receipts. Mr. Santiagoe is much less cynical than the apocryphal Mrs. Glasse. He says, after recommending the more excellent way of the Curry Stone, "The best and easy way is to buy from your respected grocers, which, I should say, ought to be of two colours--one is brown and the other is yellow, and the red is cayenne pepper (if required, hot curries)." He is a little plaintive about mulligatawny. "Why English people always spell this word wrong? Everybody knows this--mollagoo, 'pepper;' tanney, 'water.'" So the reformers who call it "mulligatunny" are just as bad as we devotees of mumpsimus and mulligatawny ourselves. We note with special pleasure a receipt for "chicken moley"--evidently the same genus as that "mollet" which puzzled Mrs. Clarke. And all the prescriptions are interesting. "Maldive fish" seems to take the place of "Bombay duck" in these southern regions, and the number of Vegetable Curries is particularly noteworthy. Nobody need think from the specimens we have given that Mr. Santiagoe is unintelligible. His English may be "pigeon," but it is a much more easily digestible tongue than the high and mighty gobble-gobble of some of our own professors of style and matter.

[True copy from "SATURDAY REVIEW."]

THE CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT;

OR

CURRIES, HOW TO MAKE THEM IN ENGLAND _IN THEIR ORIGINAL STYLE_.

BY DANIEL SANTIAGOE, General Servant, SON OF FRANCIS DANIEL, Butler and Fiddler, Trichinopoly, Madras, India, and Colombo, Ceylon

CEYLON TEA HOUSE WAITER

Royal Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool, 1887 International Exhibition, Glasgow, 1888

THIRD EDITION

LONDON KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., 1, PATERNOSTER SQUARE 1889

(_The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved._)

INDEX.

LIST AND NAMES OF CURRIES, Etc.

NO. PAGE

1. Home-made Curry Powder 1

2. Beef Curry (Plain) 5

3. Beef Curry (Ceylon Way) 6

4. Beef Curry (Madras) 7

5. Beef Curry (Kabob) Madras 9

6. Beef Curry (Dry) do. 11

7. Beef Curry (Balls) do. 12

8. Chicken Curry do. 13

9. Snipe Curry do. 14

10. Pigeon Curry do. 15

11. Pork Curry do. 16

12. Veal Curry do. 17

13. Mutton Curry do. 18

14. Partridge Curry do. 19

15. Tripe Curry do. 20

16. Liver Curry do. 21

17. Chops Curried do. 22

18. Steaks Curried do. 23

19. Game Curry (Various) Madras 24

20. Rabbit (or Young Hare) Curry 25

21. Egg Curry (Whitish Yellow) 27

22. Egg Curry (Brown) 28

23. Egg Curry (Omelet) 30

24. Egg Curry (Poached) 31

25. Fried Eggs for Curries 32

26. Curry Sauce (Brown), for any Meat 33

27. Curry Sauce (Yellow), for Vegetables and Fish 35

28. Curried Fowl (a Joint) 36

29. Chicken Moley 38

30. Fish Moley 39

31. Fish Curry (Salmon) 41

32. Fish Curry (Various) 42

33. Sardines Curried 43

34. Vegetable Curries 44

35. Potato Curry 45

36. Cabbage Curry 46

37. Bean Curry 47

38. Onion Curry 48

39. Devilled Cabin Biscuits 49

40. Devilled Meats 50

41. Mulligatawny 51

42. Pillau Rice (a Mohammedan Dish) 53

43. Lemon (Hot) Sauce 54

44. Apple Chutney (How to Make it in England) 55

44a. Mint Chutney 56

45. Quickly-made Samball 57

46. How to Fry Red Herrings for Curries 58

47. Toast Curry 59

48. How to Make Rice Powder 60

49. Mushrooms Curried and Served on Toast 61

50. How to Boil Rice for Curries 62

51. A Salad for Dinner, etc., in Hot Weather 64

52. Sundal or Poogathu, made of Cabbage and other Greens 66

53. Vegetables Boiled for Table 67

54. Economical Curry Paste 68

55. Curry Powder (a Recipe) 69

56. Curry Powder (Ordinary Way) 70

57. Curry Powder (a Most Excellent) 71

58. Tomato Curry 73

59. Curries under Various Names 74

60. Chutney Chicken 75

61. When to use Curries 76

Tamil and English Names for Curry Stuffs, Etc. 77

INTRODUCTION BY J. L. SHAND, Esq.

Daniel Santiagoe, who has twice come from his Ceylon home to serve me in England and Scotland, now gives to the world a second edition of a very valuable little book, and has asked me to write him an introduction.

An introduction is generally apologetic, but I depart from custom and congratulate the purchasers of this book upon obtaining a collection of recipes which may add much to their gastronomic enjoyment, and perhaps also contribute to health and longevity.

"I do not care for Curry, it is too hot!!!" is a common but erroneous plaint; and the disciple of Santiagoe will find recipes which provide the full delicacy of Eastern condiments without the discomfort of excessive heat.

Why do old East Indians live so long? is a question often asked.

Because so many of them are pensioners, says the student of finance.

Because so many of them are Curry eaters, says the student of hygiene.

All human nature requires to be occasionally stimulated, and a mild Curry acts upon the torpid liver, reacts upon the digestive organs, and provides the necessary stimulant without injurious consequences.

It is a remarkable fact that nearly all Curry-eating nations are abstainers from strong drinks.

Daniel Santiagoe's English may occasionally provoke a smile, but it is "English as she is spoken" by several millions of Her Majesty's subjects, and its originality often lends it force.

Were excuse necessary it would be found in this, that Daniel Santiagoe is a domestic servant to whom English is a foreign tongue.

JOHN LOUDOUN SHAND.

24, Rood Lane, London, E.C.

PREFACE BY AUTHOR.

With much thankfulness to Mr. A. Egmont Hake for his kindness in writing a preface for my first book on Curries, and great credit is due to _Saturday Review_ and humble respect is due to my two masters, Shand, Haldane & Co., of London, who brought me over to England and Scotland, with four other servants, and allowed me to publish a little book to make my desired little fortune, which is highly creditable. From the first edition of 500 copies I fully sold 400, and another hundred copies presented to friends in England and Ceylon. My intention in publishing this second edition is that I have given too little recipes and information in my first book for sixpence each copy. Though I thought it is worth making it an enlarged and revised edition for same price this time, I should like to give good many recipes for making a Curry, and give the names of all Meat and Vegetable in English and Tamil. In each heading of Curries two sorts of ingredients are given--one to be procured in England, the other in Ceylon; and also each Curry will be properly instructed. I have tasted the Curries made by Bengalee, etc., on board of steamers and on shore. They use proper Curry Stuffs, etc., but they flavour it too much; using plenty of ghee and fat mutton, etc.,--these spoil the taste. Just the same with Bombay Curries, but in Madras is the only place you could taste a proper Curry, and also in Ceylon, as a good many cooks of Madras Presidency came to Ceylon several years ago and spread out the art of general cooking in Ceylon. I believe at first the cooking business was instructed by European cooks. At present there is too many cooks in Ceylon; almost every butler, appoo, second servant, kitchen mate, groom, etc., knows to cook a English dinner!!!

Now we shall go on with our Curry business. I recommend to try Curry Powders from several grocers. The best Curry Powder is made of coriander seed (which could be got from the chemist's), saffron, dry chillies, cumin seed, few mustard seed, few pepper corns. If the Curry Powder contains all the above, it is a good Curry Powder. Some Curry Powders tastes of acid, flour, and other mixtures, which I believe is unwholesome in every means. The Tamils use tamarind for the acid taste. To every brown Curries the Singalese use Gorakka[1] (a sour fruit), slightly dried, and lime juice to their yellow Curries. There is much different taste between a Singalese Curry and a Tamil Curry--the taste just differs the same as a Madras beef Curry, No. 4, and a potato Curry (vegetable). The Curries should be treated same as a ordinary entree. If one article you had too much, it will spoil the whole Curry. If the meat over done, no taste in it. If you have all Curry stuffs, etc., at hand, could make a Curry Sauce in ten minutes the longest, and can warm up any meat for table in it (I mean the brown). The white Curry Sauce is not suitable, unless for a vegetable or fish.

[1] For Fish Curries, but not fresh fish--the fresh fish could be given acid taste from lemon, or tamarind, or vinegar.

I could give several other recipes to Curries, but the above said sixty will be quite sufficient. If you carefully tried the above said Curries will be found most economical.

A Madras woman can beat any other Indian woman in Curry cooking. In several gentry's houses in Madras, etc., they keep a woman to make Curries and prepare vegetables for table--we call her "Thanney Kareyitchi"--besides the cook and kitchen matey.

The Madras Curry always the best, much different than a Bengal or Bombay Curry, to my opinion.

D. SANTIAGOE.

International Exhibition, Glasgow, 1888.

PREFACE OF MY FIRST EDITION.

By A. Egmont Hake, Esq.

[_TRUE COPY._]

The author of this little work has asked me to write him a Preface, and I gladly do so, especially if it will help to find him buyers, as well as readers, who will put into practice the admirable receipts he offers to gourmets and others. For my own part I can speak with some authority--indeed the best--as to the excellence of Santiagoe's Curries, for I am among the fortunate few who have tasted them in England.

I was particularly struck by a remark which Santiagoe made when I asked him what he would like me to write in his little book. Some authors might have replied "Speak up for my Curries!" others might have said, "Say a good word for my book;" but he, in the fulness of gratitude, said, "Praise my Masters." He then went on to speak of how Mr. Shand and Mr. Haldane had brought him and his fellow-servants all the way from Ceylon to England.

It is only fair to point out that the English of this little book is not "English as she is spoken," but represents the expression of Santiagoe in its native costume--it is Tamil Anglicised by Santiagoe himself. As Santiagoe says, "I like broken English, because ladies gentlemen like that." The author is a native of Trichinopoly. His grandfather and uncle were distinguished drummers in Indian infantry regiments--in other words, they were masters of the tom-tom. He has lived all his life in Ceylon,[2] and for the last seven years--that is, since he was sixteen--has been in the service of English residents, of whom he appears to have nothing but pleasant recollections. It would seem that this will be the case in his experience of England, whither he has come with others as waiter at the Ceylon Tea Rooms in the Liverpool Exhibition--though he told me with much modesty that "people were very kind, but he supposed the Ceylon servants were a novelty."

[2] In 1879 have been to Maldive Island, or Minicoi Island, with my master, to a wrecked steamer of "Bird" Line.--Ed.

Please to read the article of _Saturday Review_ of 22nd October, 1887.

It is, to say the least, highly creditable to Santiagoe that, with many duties to perform, and these amid the distracting influences of our Western civilization, he should have compiled this useful little guide to the art of Curry cooking. The spirit of Brillat-Savarin and of Soyer is stronger than the ephemeral attractions of an exhibition. Let us hope Santiagoe's enterprise will be more lasting than these; that it will achieve its aim in popularizing Ceylon Curries in this country; and that his "Book on Curries" will pass through many editions, and bring him the "little fortune" he deserves.

(Signed) A. EGMONT HAKE,

_Author of "General Gordon's Journal at Khartoum;" Editor of "The Story of Chinese Gordon," etc., etc.; Commissioner of War Trophies, Royal Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool, 1887._

COPY OF THE NOTE OF MY FIRST EDITION ON CURRIES.

I beg to bring the following Receipts to Curries, etc. I hope it will be handy to ladies, housekeepers, cooks, etc. I only mention the easy way of making it in England, for scarcity of fresh and pure Curry stuffs none procurable. Still, it is very troublesome to grind the Curry stuffs without a Curry stone, which is very common to a native Cooly of India. No native houses without a Curry stone. The way the native girls, etc., grind the Curry stuffs will be an astonishment to European ladies. The best way to grind the Curry powder in England, by hard stone made mortar or pounder, but the best and easy way is to buy from your respected grocers, which, I should say, ought to be of two colours, one is brown and the other is yellow, and the red is cayenne pepper (if required hot Curries).

With regard to above, if care should be taken and make the Curries with any of the following meat:--Beef, mutton, chicken, fish, etc., etc., and vegetables, you will find it an economical dish for an English meal to have an Indian dish; if little care and attention is given to it, will find it as a relish. The same time I must say, many parties visited our Indian continent will know the taste of a Curry as well as my own experience. I have been instructed by several head cooks of India and Ceylon. My own people are cooks under several respected gentry of Ceylon and India. Now, I must say, it is a national food to natives of India and Ceylon as beef and bread to Europeans. With attention to this I myself am a servant of gentlemen as approved cook, second boy, dressing boy, house and general servant, and will answer to several other capacity, as clerk, store-keeper, etc., etc. I only thought of publishing this little work by request of several parties requiring me to write some good Curries.

So just the same time I may have the chance of printing it and make a small fortune by the favour of customers, and by their favouring me to sell these few hundred copies, will be highly thankful; but I regret to say that I should have written large and more recipes, but my time is very little to spare to attend to this work.

With regards I hope the lovers of Curry will be satisfy with these accompanying recipes, which, I should say can be made in England with Curry stuffs and provisions procurable here. The fact is I myself have tried several of these Curries in England during my short visit in England, and found to be a good result, in fact, not in its original taste, but only second to it in my opinion. If carefully prepared will find it as a economical dish for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Only little time and attention is required. I wish the reader will have the pleasure of reading this book right through first.

Another matter to point out, that in Madras cooks make Curries with or without cocoanut, but in Ceylon no Curries without cocoanut, neither any vegetable Curries without Maldive fish. For this point I have given recipes to make with milk, cream, and gravy; and to every vegetable Curry add a spoonful of chopped ham or corned beef; this for imitation of Maldive fish.[3] Still it is much richer to vegetable Curries than Maldive fish.

[3] Dried shark, prepared in the Maldive Islands.--Ed.

D. SANTIAGOE.

Ceylon Court, R.J.E., Liverpool, England, 1887.

THE CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT.

No. 1.--HOME-MADE CURRY POWDER.

In England.

1 lb. Coriander Seed. 1/2 oz. Saffron. 1 Eggspoon Cumin Seed. 1/2 doz. Pepper Corns. Small bit of Cinnamon (1 in. square). 8 Dried Chillies Capsicums. 4 Tablespoons good Rice.

In Ceylon.

Coriander. Saffron and Cumin Seed. Pepper Corns. Cinnamon. Dried Chillies--Rice. Curry Leaves, and few other things of which cannot be procured in England.

N.B.--I only mention this home-made Curry Powder, if you can procure the above said Curry Stuffs separately from the chemists or grocers. As I heard from a gentleman in Liverpool, "Everything the world produces can be bought in London"!!!

_Mode._--Place a frying-pan (not an enamelled one) on fire; soon as it gets hot put in the coriander; when nice and gold colour take it off and put on a plate again. Set the frying-pan on fire and add the cumin seed, pepper corns, dry chillies. Just give a shake, and take it off and give it two or three more shakes and put on a plate, but don't put the saffron in the frying-pan. Now wipe the frying-pan, and set on fire again; when hot, put in the rice, and keep on shaking till each grain gets goldish brown; do not let it burn. The rice on board of ships will answer to this better than you buying from your grocer's; but in the scarcity of above any rice will do.

Now when all these are done we shall have to grind it to a smooth powder. These cannot be done unless you have a stone-made pounder or Curry stone and grinder. The latter I have not seen in England, still there is the finest strong metal stones in England. The Curry stone and grinder is bought for no money in up country of Ceylon, but in Colombo, the chief city here, we pay 50 cents, to Rs. 2 50 cts. each. Curry stone and grinder will last for generations. It is better to grind all Curry stuffs separately and keep each in its own bottle, then you will be careful of what you are about, and you will know how much you are using of each stuff.

For any meat Curry (per lb.) add one tablespoon coriander seed, a saltspoon of saffron, a pinch of cumin seed, dash of pepper, small bit of cinnamon, one-half tablespoon of rice powder; if preferred hot, add a bit of cayenne. For white Curries, only one-half teaspoon of saffron to be added. If at hand, just cut a young capsicum in quarters and add to the Curry. You can add a green chillies to Meat Curries also. If the above home made Curry Powder cannot be done, you shall have to buy three sorts of Curry Powder. Coriander, rice, cumin seed, and pepper (one mixture); cayenne and saffron each separately bottled. Other things can be got from your respective grocers. If you buy a mixed Curry Powder or Paste, it will taste everything too much, as following:--Heat! hot? bitter, sour flour, spice, and too much of yellow colour of saffron, and too much of a nice Curry smell. The fact is, I have tasted several Curry Powders and Paste in England, and also in Scotland, but nothing equal to separate Curry stuffs. If the Curry stuffs, etc., are imported from India to Europe it will keep good for a long time, and will have a good market, except the dry chillies, because there is plenty of cayenne in England. Garlic ginger (green), used for any Meat Curry, it is very healthy and helps to digest the Curry and rice sooner, as parties think Curries are not easily digestible. The Curries must not be prepared too rich, as richness takes away all flavour, and the meat will taste like stewed Curry. The butter you add to fry the Curry stuffs will be quite sufficient to richen the Curry without using fat meat.

No. 2.--BEEF CURRY (Plain).

1 lb. Beef (Fresh or Cooked Meat will do). 1 Tablespoon Curry Powder (not hot). 1 Pint good Milk or strong (Beef) Gravy. 1 Large Onion or few small ones. 1 Young Capsicum and 1 Tablespoon Rice Powder. Small piece of Cinnamon. Pinch of Cumin Powder; Salt to taste.

N.B.--In Ceylon we use Cocoanut Milk (the juice), Curry Leaves, and some other Leaves for Spices.

_Mode._--Cut the meat in half-inch squares; put into a clean stew-pan, then slice the onions, and add the onions, Curry stuffs, chillies, cinnamon, milk, cumin seed, etc., and salt. Mix all well together, and set on fire for 15 to 20 minutes; do not let it burn. When serving add a few drops of lemon juice. If required hot add a pinch of cayenne when preparing.

No. 3.--BEEF CURRY (Ceylon).

For a Pound of Good Beef (I mean lean).

1 Tablespoon Coriander Powder and 1 of Rice Powder. 1/2 Eggspoon Saffron Powder and Pinch of Cumin Powder. 1 Pint good Milk or Gravy. 1 Large Onion or few small ones. 2 Young green Chillies (Capsicum). A bit of Cinnamon (if you like spices); Salt to taste.

N.B.--In Ceylon all the Curry stuffs are freshly grinded. Cocoanut Juice, Curry Leaves, etc., are used. This is a very delicious Curry to eat with rice boiled or bread toasted.