The Cultivation and Manufacture of Tea
CHAPTER XXXII.
COUNTRIES OUTSIDE CHINA AND INDIA THAT PRODUCE TEA.
So much has the industry marched since the Third Edition was published in 1878 that I think it well to add the following pages to my book.
I will first consider the countries _outside_ India and China which produce Tea, or wish to do so.
CEYLON.
This is likely to prove a formidable competitor. As far as I can gather, Tea plants (of both the Assam and China kinds) were introduced into Ceylon in 1841, but it is only during the last few years Tea planting has been taken up in earnest. A Mr. Shand, who seems to have studied Tea in Ceylon, estimates 500 lbs. per acre as the produce when in full bearing. This is 6-1/4 maunds, and though less than the best Indian gardens give, it is considerably above the average all over India. Ceylon Tea finds a ready market in London. The parcels vary much, as they do from India, but in the past year (1882) many very desirable lots were sent home. I believe, take it all in all, Ceylon Tea is no better, and no worse, than Indian Tea.
With Tea prices as they are to-day, I would not myself _commence_ Tea cultivation in India, Ceylon, or _anywhere_. I feel sure, therefore, if Ceylon planters rush into Tea, as they did in India in times past, they will regret it. But I hear that made Tea gardens can be bought there cheap, and under these circumstances Tea will probably pay the purchasers well.
JOHORE.
H.H. the Maharajah there has started a small Tea garden, but as there are in it only two acres of Tea, the whole thing is quite an experiment yet. The climate is said to be favourable, and land easily acquired. Cheap labour is the difficulty. May it long continue so! There is too much Tea already; the low prices ruling result simply from supply exceeding demand. Thus I hope Johore will _not_ produce Tea. The following is from the _Tea Gazette_:--
TEA IN JOHORE.
We have lately published several articles on the subject of Tea in Johore and the prospects of Tea plantations in the Malay Peninsula. The soil and climate are all that can be desired for the successful cultivation of the Tea plant; there is abundance of land lying idle which can be obtained on advantageous terms; but all hopes of establishing the Tea industry on a prosperous footing are frustrated by the want of cheap Indian labour. A correspondent writes on this subject to the _Ceylon Observer_ as follows:--
“I was pretty well disgusted with Johore at first. I got such fever as nearly finished me up twice. A new comer from Ceylon says he had Wellawaya fever and all other fevers in Ceylon, but he never felt anything to come near the severity of Johore fever. Liberian coffee does first-class in the low country. Cocoa is being tried with apparent success. Tea is also promising. You may have seen about some samples sold in London, at a high figure. All this is nice enough, but what’s the good of it when we have not a plentiful supply of labour over which we can have complete control? So you see, the burden of my letter is an indefinite supply of labour.”
Strenuous efforts are, however, being made to arrange with the Government for the importation of labourers from this country, which, if successful, will inevitably result in the cultivation on a large scale of the Tea plant in Johore. In another column will be found a description of the Maharajah of Johore’s experimental Tea plantation at Tanjong Putri, Johore.
JAPAN.
Sends its Teas principally to America. The Tea is of a greenish nature, and experiments to manufacture black Tea have not, it seems, been successful. The following should give a hope to Indian Tea planters:--
JAPAN TEA.
To the Editor of the _Japan Herald_.
Dear Sir,--I read your article on Tea contained in last Saturday’s paper, anent the deterioration in quality of one of the country’s principal articles of export, and can fully confirm the chief points contained therein.
But in addition, from my personal experience, there appears to exist a steadily increasing disregard of care in the preparation of the leaf up country, and the evil, though existing for the last three or four years, is much more manifest this season, and is worthy of being brought under the especial notice of parties interested in the welfare of this country’s produce.
I submit for your inspection a sample of coarse leaf sifted out of a parcel of good quality, and the proportion of similar stuff in the chop amounts to fully 3 per cent., very much affecting the good appearance of the fired leaf. This defect no doubt arises from the attempted production of too great an amount of cured leaf for each hand employed per diem in the process, to be attributed no doubt to the enhanced cost of labour in the interior. But the defect is of vital importance for the future of Japan Teas in America. The buyer for distribution amongst consumers in that country is greatly influenced by the “appearance” of the leaf, despite its relative intrinsic quality in infusion, in comparison with a Tea of worse appearance, hence the high facing and colouring at present so much in vogue. If the Japanese producers continue the present style of manufacturing the leaf up country, so surely will Japan Teas decline in favour in America, as the foreign shipper here cannot make up the leaf prepared up country to the standard required by the American buyers, and with the prospect of a possibility of Oolongs and even blacks becoming ere long dangerous rivals with consumers in the United States, it behoves the Japanese Tea growers to turn their attention towards an improvement in production in their own country before they attempt to rival foreign competitors at this side.--Yours faithfully,
YAMATO.
Yokohama, _Aug. 19, 1881_.
[We have inspected the sample of coarse leaf referred to in the above letter, and though we cannot pretend to any critical knowledge of Tea, we can confirm the statements of our correspondent, and hold the specimen at our office, where it can be seen by anyone desirous of doing so.--_Editor, Japan Herald._]
I know not where this next extract came from, but it appears they understand adulteration in Japan:--
Mr. Yanagiya might, however, have gone a step farther, and have given particulars of the various analyses, and have mentioned that the “leaf” of the various samples showed a large proportion of leaves quite different to those of the Tea shrub, and for the presence of which not even the astute foreigner--that bugbear of Japanese commerce--can be held accountable.
We have heard this season loud complaints of the presence of leaves entirely distinct from those of the Tea plant amongst purchases. These consisted principally of wisteria, willow and a species of ash, but the native growers were impartial, and several other species of shrubs also contributed their quota to the frauds practised by the Japanese.
The probable reason of the falling off in the quantity of one of the leading articles of export from Japan is not difficult to guess at, nor can the Japanese say that they have not received full and timely warning of the danger threatening the popularity of Japan Tea. A reckless over-production, excessive and close picking of the shrubs, and great carelessness in pruning and manuring the tree--caused, no doubt, in no small degree by the high rate of wages in the interior--is militating against the realisation of a good crop, and the peasant is too intent upon immediate profits to forego the picking of the third crop of a season under existing circumstances. The result of all this has been that--at the close of last season--a quantity of worthless leaf was poured upon the market, finally sold at almost nominal figures, and shipped across to the United States, where it remains an incubus on the figures of stock, and a source of future abhorrence to any unfortunate purchaser towards anything bearing the name of Japan Tea.
The following is from the report of the Japanese Consul at San Francisco. I should have thought the Americans were too sensible “to prefer coloured Teas:”
It has however come to my knowledge that in the Eastern States the Tea was analyzed, and adulteration was discovered; such as the admixture of other leaves and poisonous ingredients which are used for colouring the Tea before it is exported, and that the markets in the Eastern States being overstocked, no Tea, unless of the best quality, can find purchasers. This is a very deplorable state of affairs. The colouring is made by the foreign merchants residing in Japan, for Americans prefer coloured Tea, and a few Japanese merchants may have imitated them, and exported on their own account.
The exports of Japan Tea to America have declined from seventeen to fourteen million in one year! Not strange if all the above is true.
The following from the _Tea Gazette_ bears out what I say above as to Japan black Tea:--
JAPAN BLACK TEA.
Mr. Consul Euslie writes from Kanagawa (Japan) as follows concerning black Tea:--This has, on the whole, proved a failure, although the production continues on a limited scale. The climate and soil of this country appear unfitted to the growth of plants producing a leaf of the quality necessary to make good black. Teas resembling good leaf congous can be made with good and even handsome leaf, several samples being in appearance very similar to Indian Teas of pekoe class, but lacking strength, and not being nearly equal to good Chinese Foochow Teas in that respect. A small amount of these Teas has been shipped to Germany on native account, a German financier providing the necessary funds; but thus far the outcome of these shipments has not transpired. The results generally of 1881 have not proved as satisfactory as those of the preceding year; the whole crop, and more particularly the first picking, shows signs of hasty and careless preparation. The amount of Tea exported from Japan was decidedly in excess of the requirements of the United States and Canada, and a considerable portion of the shipments for the year had to be sacrificed at prices which did not cover laying down cost.
All this is hopeful for our Indian Teas, as we _can_ manufacture the greenish Tea they like--that is, we can do it if they won’t take our black, but they have begun to do so.
The above mode of manufacture in Japan is new to us in India.
The process of steaming the Tea is as follows:--As soon as picked it is at once steamed, all damp or wet leaves being thrown on one side, excepting those that may be a little wet with dew. In order to obtain the proper application of heat, a few leaves are put into a shallow basket, spread out evenly, and the lid put on; the basket is then placed over a charcoal fire box or stove, a perfume is at once perceived. When the greeny smell has subsided, the leaves are removed, spread on a piece of new matting, and fanned briskly so as to draw out the heat. After the lapse of some little time the Tea is placed in a tray, and then undergoes a firing process, the length of which is regulated either by the minute hand of a watch or the beats of a pulse, and depends a good deal on the manipulator’s own ideas.
JAVA.[89]
Much of this Tea goes to Holland and Northern Germany. I know Tea cultivation in Java is carried out very carefully and very successfully, but this one fact is all I know as to Java or its Teas.
AMERICA.
That the proper climate for Tea can be found there (a huge Continent to choose from!) goes without saying. But equally sure is it that Tea will not pay except labour is cheap.
By the extract below, it appears Georgia has been selected for experimental Tea cultivation, and I doubt not it is a good selection:--
TEA PLANTING IN AMERICA.
Successful experiments have been made in this branch of cultivation in the United States, as is shown by a report just published by Mr. Jackson, a Scotch gentleman now settled in America, who was at one time manager of the estates of the Scottish Assam Company. The Commissioner of Agriculture has, at Mr. Jackson’s advice, selected a tract of land in Georgia for an experimental farm, on which the raising of Tea on an extended scale will be carefully and thoroughly tried. Samples of the Teas already produced by Mr. Jackson have been sent to Messrs. Thompson, tea merchants, Mincing Lane, London, to be examined. The reply was that--“They represented Teas of a high type. The flavour, though not strong, is remarkably fragrant. In appearance they resemble Indian Tea, but the flavour is more like that of the finest Chinese black Tea, or of the hill Teas of India.”
No reason why the Teas should not be good, but the labour difficulty will, I think, prevent Tea paying there, as elsewhere in America, for Mr. Jackson himself, who continues the above, asks further on, “Can we afford to pay our labourers four times as much as they pay in India and still make Tea a success?” He, strange to say, tries to prove “yes.” I say no, a thousand times no, in spite of all Mr. Jackson says. I like, however, to give both sides of a question, and so will let Mr. Jackson speak for himself:--
The stock cry continually raised against Tea culture in this country is, how can you raise Tea in a country where wages are so high? You can cultivate Tea at a profit only in a country where labour is at the lowest possible minimum, and so on. And so it is taken for granted that the Tea culture is to be allowed to retain its antiquated forms and systems for all time, and that the skill and intelligence of a civilized nation can do nothing to raise it to a level with corresponding branches of agriculture, such, for instance, as rice growing. What would the people of South Carolina say if told that the only way to cultivate rice at a profit was to sow all their seed in nursery beds and, when sprouted, to transplant their entire crop, seed by seed, by hand, as is done in India? What would a Minnesota farmer say if told that the only implement with which he could profitably rear a crop of corn was the hoe, wielded by an attenuated skeleton of a man? If the hundreds of wealthy Tea planters in Assam were told that they must return to the original system of manufacturing their Teas by hand, they would throw up their farms in despair. Seventy million pounds of Tea are now annually manufactured by machinery in India and Java, and I have satisfied myself that green Teas, suitable for the American market, can be manufactured at one-third the cost of the black Teas prepared by machinery for the English market. There is but one division of Tea culture into which the labour question would enter at all, and that is the picking of the leaves. Everything else can be carried on with the mechanical precision of the cultivator, reaper, and floutring mill. Is not the real truth of the matter to be found in the fact that the American people know nothing--absolutely nothing--of the modern system of Tea culture and manufacture, and are therefore in no position to form a sound judgment of the possibilities of their country and countrymen in regard to Tea? I say again, as I have often said before, that the question of labour will prove no barrier to successful Tea culture in America. Let any who are interested enough in this subject to feel sceptical about it favour me with a call at No. 229 East Fourth Street and I will take pleasure in showing them what achievements modern skill and mechanical genius have already attained and what may very easily be accomplished in America. I believe that then there is a bright future in store for successful Tea culture.
In another place Mr. Jackson says he has always cultivated with ploughs, and done it successfully. Naturally this would make his cultivation much cheaper, and it is high time, as I say elsewhere, that we in India should try and do the same thing.
We, all the world knows, how ingenious, how inventive the Americans are, and thus it is _possible_ they may by the use of machinery for all branches of manufacture, by improved steam-ploughs and other agricultural instruments which shall dispense with hand labour for cultivation, so cheapen the cost of Tea that its production will pay in spite of the high rate of wages ruling. Only in this way, however, _can_ the industry succeed in America, and if it be done (I hope it may, for we in India shall then benefit by the ideas carried out), the United States will add one more laurel to the many they have achieved already in other branches of commerce.
NATAL.
Tea here too! Where, alas! is it not? The following is in a report from Natal:--
We have glanced at the past and seen the present condition of the Tea enterprise. The most important matter is still before us--the future of Tea in Natal. It must be remembered that an industry may be profitable to encourage for local consumption, and yet fail when it comes to be exported. This production (Tea) must be looked at as one which, if it progresses, must shortly be exported. Three hundred acres of Tea in full bearing will supply to the full the present need of the Colony and its surroundings, _i.e._, taking the import returns as our guide; and even with increasing demand, that demand can soon be met. Therefore the importance attaching to the question, “Can we in Natal grow Tea to pay, so as to compete with other countries in the markets of the world?” The Tea-growing districts of India, till lately confined to Assam, Cachar, and neighbourhood, have now been extended to the Neilgherries and Ceylon, and these places, till lately confining themselves to coffee, are leaving that most precarious crop and growing Tea and cinchona. Both these districts at present export Tea to England. It is said that Tea is to be introduced into Queensland and the northern territory of Australia; and that the Southern States of the Union and California contemplate Tea growing. Are we justified, then, in believing that Tea may be profitably exported from Natal? Before considering this, we have to bear in mind that Tea is placed in the London market in large quantities at a very low price; China Teas as low as 5-1/2_d._ per lb. in bond, and Indian Teas as low as 8_d._ per lb. in bond; but again the price extends to 3_s._ and even 4_s._ per lb. in bond. All these things have to be weighed and well considered by anyone before embarking in this enterprise to any great extent. In all matters of agriculture the labour question is the foremost, after it is known that the plant will flourish. To attempt to base the success of this particular industry upon any other than that of coolie labour would be foolish, as we all know that Kafirs are not to be relied upon; therefore the cost of labour has to be considered. We well know that all the Tea estates of India have to be supplied with imported coolies--the natives of the districts concerned will not work unless casually--but the cost of coolies in Natal must be more than the cost of coolies in Assam--therefore in that item the advantage must be in favour of the Indian planter. Countries such as Queensland and the United States of America must either import labour, or pay a much higher rate than we do; hence so far as these countries are concerned, Natal will hold its own.
I have not done yet. Here is another place where it seems they mean to try Tea. I do hope that climate, soil, labour, something will be found unsuitable.
FIJI TEA.
Mr. J. E. Mason, of the Alpha Tea and Coffee Estate, Taviuni, Fiji, has forwarded to Mr. J. O. Moody, the expert, of Melbourne, samples of the first Fijian Tea produced in his part of the world; at the same time writing that early next year he hoped to pluck off 30 acres planted with Tea, and that the samples sent were hastily made in a barrel with a frying-pan of charcoal. Mr. J. O. Moody reports:--“Fiji Pekoe leaf: Handsome, small, even, golden tipped, evenly and well fermented. Fiji Pekoe liquor: Very strong, full, rich, and pungent pekoe flavour, thick, with deep red infusion. An invaluable Tea for mixing, and worth about 2_s._ 6_d._ per lb. in bond. Fiji Pekoe Souchong leaf: Well made, wiry, twisted, rich, black tippy leaf, evenly and well fermented Fiji Pekoe Souchong flavour, with good, bright, red infusion. A fine Tea to drink alone, and worth about 1_s._ 9_d._ per lb. in bond. These Teas have the character of good Ceylon growths, and are in every respect suitable Teas for general consumption, and such samples are sure to meet with ready sale in Australasia or Great Britain.”
Here again, I am told, the labour question is the doubtful point. Tea cannot be made to pay without cheap labour, and the sooner all these new Tea countries learn the lesson the better for the pockets of the projectors. I may add, the better for the Indian planter’s pocket too, for _any_ increase in the supply is hurtful.
In closing this chapter, I would give one word of advice to intending Tea planters in India, or indeed anywhere. There is too much Tea already, why plant more? If you must “go into Tea” you may do so and probably make money, but it will not be by _planting_ it. If you look about you can buy a plantation ready made for far less than you could make such, and in doing so there is no reason why it should not pay, and pay well. If you make a garden you will have five or six years to wait for any return; you attempt what requires knowledge and experience to succeed in, and begging your success, who can say what the market will be then?
I have far from exhausted the subject of these new Tea fields, but my space is limited, and several other points demand attention.
FOOTNOTE:
[89] Much about Java and its Teas can be found in a book entitled “Java, or How to Manage a Colony,” by J. W. B. Money. Crown 8vo, 2 vols. Hurst and Blackett.