Chapter 14

The acqusition of the Philippine Islands by the United States has led to a great increase of the literature on the islands, especially in regard to educational and industrial progress. Among the old books that have good sketches of Manila are _A Visit to the Philippine Islands_ by Sir John Browning.

For sketches of the city since the American occupation see Worcester, _The Philippine Islands and Their People_; Landor, _The Gems of the East_; Dennis, _An Observer in the Philippines_; Potter, _The East To-day and Tomorrow_; Moses, _Unofficial Letters of An Official's Wife_; Hamm, _Manila and the Philippines_; Younghusband, _The Philippines and Round About_; Stevens, _Yesterdays in the Philippines_; Arnold, The Philippines, _the Land of Palm and Pine_; and LeRoy, _Philippine Life in Town and Country_.

HONGKONG

Good descriptive sketches of Hongkong may be found in Norman, _The Peoples and Politics of the Far East_; Des Veux, _A Handbook of Hongkong_; Colquhoun, _China in Transformation_; Penfield, _East of Suez_; Treves, _The Other Side of the Lantern_; Ball, _Things Chinese_; Thomson, _The Changing Chinese_; Singleton, _China As Described by Great Writers_; and Liddell, China, _Its Marvel and Mystery_.

SINGAPORE

Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, was one of the British Empire builders who was very shabbily treated by the English government. Unaided, he prevented the Dutch from obtaining exclusive control over all the waters about Singapore and he was also instrumental in retaining Malacca, after the East India Company had decided to abandon it. He was appointed Lieutenant-Governor of Java after the English wrested the island from the Dutch in 1810. His ambition was to make Java "the center of an Eastern Insular Empire," but this project was thwarted by the restoration of Java to Holland. The Raffles Museum in Singapore, one of the most interesting in the Orient, was his gift.

Sketches of Singapore may be found in Sir Frank Swettenham's _British Malaya_, _Malay Sketches_ and _The Real Malay_; Wright and Reed, _The Malay Peninsula_; Belfield, _Handbook of the Federated Malay States_; Harrison, _Illustrated Guide to the Federated Malay States_; Ireland, _The Far Eastern Tropics_; Boulger, _Life of Sir Stamford Raffles_; Buckley, _Records of Singapore_.

RANGOON

There is a large literature on Burma, which seems to have appealed to British travelers. Among the books that have chapters devoted to Rangoon are Cuming, _In the Shadow of the Pagoda_; Bird, _Wanderings in Burma_; Hart, _Picturesque Burma_; Kelly, _The Silken East_; MacMahon, _Far Cathay and Farther India_; Vincent, _The Land of the White Elephant_; Nisbet, _Burma Under British Rule and Before_; Hall, _The Soul of a People_ and _A People at School_.

INDIA

The literature about India is very extensive, so that only a few of the best books may be mentioned here. To the tourist the one indispensable book is Murray's _Handbook for Travelers in India, Ceylon and Burma_, which is well provided with maps and plans of cities. For general description, among the best works are Malcolm, _Indian Pictures and Problems_; Scidmore, _Winter India_; Forrest, _Cities of India_; Kipling, _From Sea to Sea_; Stevens, _In India_; Arnold, _India Revisited_; Low, _A Vision of India_ (describing the journey of the Prince of Wales in 1905-6); Caine, _Picturesque India_; _Things Seen in India_.

For the history of India, some of the best books are Lane-Poole, _Mediaeval India_ and _The Mogul Emperors_; Fanshawe, _Delhi, Past and Present_; McCrindle, _Ancient India_; Rhys-Davids, _British India_; Roberts, _Forty-one Tears in India_; Holmes, _History of the Indian Mutiny_; Innes, _The Sepoy Revolt_; Curzon, _Russia in Central Asia_; Colquhoun, _Russia Against India_.

On the religions of India: Rhys-Davids, _Buddhism_; Warren, _Buddhism in Translations_; Clarke, _Ten Great Religions_; Hopkins, _Religions of India_; Arnold, _The Light of Asia_.

EGYPT

Egypt has changed so much during the last twenty years that books written before that time are practically obsolete. The dahabiyeh is no longer used for Nile travel, except by tourists of means and large leisure, since the tourist steamers make the trip up and down the Nile in one quarter the time consumed by the old sailing vessels. Cairo has been transformed into a European city and even Luxor is modernized, with its immense hotels and its big foreign winter colony.

Baedeker's Egypt is the best guide book, but be sure that you get the latest edition, as the work is revised every two or three years. The introductory essays in this volume on Egyptian history, religion, art and Egyptology are well worth careful reading. The descriptions of the ruins and the significance of many of the hieroglyphs are helpful. Of general descriptive works on Egypt, some of the best are Penfield, _Present Day Egypt_ (1899); Jeremiah Lynch, _Egyptian Sketches_, a book by a San Franciscan which gives a series of readable pictures of Cairo and the voyage up the Nile; Holland, _Things Seen in Egypt_.

Of Egypt, before it was transformed by the British, standard works are Lane, _Cairo Fifty Tears Ago_; Lady Duff-Gordon, _Letters From Egypt_ (covering the period from 1862 to 1869). Good historical works are Lane-Poole, _Egypt, and the Story of Cairo_; Ebers, _Egypt, Descriptive, Historical, and Picturesque_.

Of the administration of England in Egypt, the best book is Lord Cromer's _Modern Egypt_. Other works are Milner, _England in Egypt_; Colvin, _The Making of Modern Egypt_. The story of Gordon's death at Khartoum is well told in Stevens, _With Kitchener to Khartoum_ and Churchill, _The River War_.

Several valuable works on Egyptian archeology have been written by Maspero and Flinders-Petrie. Maspero's _Art in Egypt_, which is lavishly illustrated, will be valuable as a guide book. Flinders-Petrie's _Egyptian Decorative Art_ is worth reading.

Index

Agra, East Indian city of interesting features, 111; the Taj Mahal, 112-116

Arjmand, favorite wife of Shah Jehan, for whom the Taj was built, 112

Benares, sacred city of the Hindoos, 100-105; bathing ghats along the Ganges, 100-102; toll levied by priests on all bathers, 103; burning the dead by the river banks, 104-105; funeral ceremonies, 105

Bombay, gateway of India, 123-134; beauty of public buildings, 123-124; the Apollo Bunder, 124; importance of the Parsees in city life, 124-1126; reception to King George V, 127; holiday street scenes, 128; religion and customs of the Parsees, 129-130; wedding ceremonies, 132; "Towers of Silence" where dead are exposed to vultures, 133-134

Buddhism, temples at Nikko, 17; greatest temple, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon, 90; first residence of Buddha at Sarnath, near Benares, 100

Cairo, the capital of Egypt, 137-142; much Europeanized since Ismail's time, 138-139; the Street of the Camel, 138-140; Esbekiyeh Gardens, 140; shopping in the great Muski bazar, 141; Island of Roda, where Moses was found, 142; scenes in the old native city, 142

Calcutta, greatest commercial port of India, 95-99; former capital, 95; the Maidan or Esplanade, 95-96; Eden Gardens, 95; scene of the Black Hole, 96; caste marks, 97; scenes in bathing ghats on the Hoogly, 98; native quarter, 98-99; botanical gardens with great banyan tree, 99; Imperial Museum, 99

Canton, the great business center of China, 72-79; exodus of people during revolution, 73; boat city on the Pearl river, 73-74; "hot-foot" boats, 75; inside the ancient walls, 76-77; deserted stores on main street, 76; Buddhist Temple of Horrors, 77; great rush of refugees, 77-78; scene of the assassination of Tartar general, 78; old Buddhist water clock, 78

Cawnpore, scene of the worst massacre in the Sepoy mutiny, 109-110; fatal mistake of General Wheeler, 109; treachery of Nana Sahib, 110; butchery of women and children, 110

Chator, Sir Paul, who made Hongkong a great city, 81

Delhi, ancient Mogul capital of India, 117-122; tombs of Moslem emperors, 117-118; squalor of common people, 119; Mogul palaces and mosques, 119-120; the Kutab Minar, 120-121; memorials of the mutiny, 121-122; fighting at Kabul gate, 122

Egypt, the land of tombs, pyramids and mummies, 137-164; railroad ride from Port Said, 138; features of the country, 138-139; Cairo and its picturesque life, 138-142; Luxor and Karnak ruins of finest temples of ancient Egypt, 143-149; Thebes, tomb city of the Egyptian Kings, 150-155; sailing down the Nile, 156-160; Pyramids and the Sphinx, 161-164

Havelock, English General who fought his way into Lucknow and helped defend the city against hordes of mutineers, 108

Hideyoshi, Napoleon of Japan, his memory revered, 19; his castle, 29

Hongkong, greatest British port in the Orient, 65-71; its fine public buildings and spacious water-front, 66; splendid shops on Queen's road, 67; picturesque street crowds, 68; mixture of races, 68; night scenes in native quarter, 69; cable railway to the peak, 70; costly residences on mountain side, 70; Kowloon City, 71

India, the most interesting country of the Orient, 95-104; Calcutta, most beautiful of Indian cities, 95-99; Benares, the sacred city of the Hindoos, 100-105; Lucknow and Cawnpore, cities of the mutiny, 106-110; Agra and the Taj Mahal, 111-116; Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital and now the British capital, 117-122; Bombay, the European gateway of India, 123-134; the Parsees and their curious customs, 129-134

Japan, Yokohama, 3; aspect of rural life, 4; bull, the beast of burden 5; the jinrikisha, 5; great courtesy of all classes, 6; women as field hands, 8; Tokio, the picturesque capital, 10-15; Nikko, city of temples, 16-21; Kyoto, the ancient capital, famous for gardens and art work, 22-27; railway travel, 22-23; Kobe,28-33; Osaka, chief manufacturing city, 29; Inland Sea, 30; Nagasaki, 30-32; development of sense of beauty, 34-37; influence of the garden on artistic sense, 34-35; are the Japanese honest? 28-39; influence of Christianity, 41-42; the sampan, 43; influence of military training, 45-46; loyalty to country, 46-47

Karnak, the greatest temple of ancient Egypt, 147-149; its enormous size, 147; its hypostile hall, one of the wonders of the world, 147-148; hieroglyphs of Seti and Rameses, 148; obelisks erected by Queen Hatasu, 148; colossal statues and columns, 148; cost in human life, 149

Kobe, greatest commercial seaport of Japan, 28-29; its many foreign schools, colleges and missions, 28

Kyoto, ancient Japanese capital, 22-27; richly decorated temples, 24; satsuma, cloissone and damascene work, 24-25; attractive shops, 26; great bronze Daibutsa, 26; oldest Buddhist temple in Japan, 27

Lawrence, Sir Henry, to whose wise precautions the British in Lucknow owed their lives during the mutiny; he was killed in the early days of the siege, 107.

Lucknow, scene of the most famous siege in the Indian mutiny, 106-109; ruins of the Residency, 106; story of the siege, 107-108; memorial tablets to British heroes, 108

Luxor, with ruins of the finest temple in Egypt, 143-146; built by Amenophis III; restored and enlarged by Rameses II, 143-144; plan of the temple, 144-145; Rameses exposed by Egyptologists, 146; temple of Karnak, 147-149

Manila, capital of Philippines and American naval base in Far East, 51-62; hospitality of Americans, 52; reenforced concrete favorite building material, 52; its splendid docks, 52; the Escolta, 52; the Bridge of Spain, 53; the carabao or water buffalo, 53; old walled city, 54; historical gates, 54; famous churches, 55; doors open to the ambitious Filipino youths, 56; influence of American schools, 56-57; Dr. George W. Wright on religious work in Philippines, 56-57; sanitary reforms which have made Manila healthy port, 57; work of the Constabulary Guard, 58; scenes on the Luneta, 60; nipa huts of natives, 61-62; fondness of people for music, 62; American gramophones in native huts, 62

Nana Sahib, the evil genius of the Indian mutiny, who broke faith with prisoners at Cawnpore, shot the men, and ordered 125 women and children butchered and cast into a well, 109

Nara, seat of oldest temples in Japan, 26-27; tame deer in park, 26

Nicholson, John, Brigadier-General, the ablest man the Indian mutiny produced, 121; he led the British march on Delhi and fell at the storming of the Lahore gate, 122

Nagasaki, great Japanese seaport, 30-33; girls coaling steamers, 31-32; trip to Mogi, 33

Nikko, the Japanese city of temples, 16-21; eighth century Buddhist temple, 17; Sacred Red Bridge, 17; imperial tombs, 17-19; school pilgrimages, 19; famous cryptomeria avenue to Imaichi, 20-21

Nile, sailing down the, 156-160; importance of river to Egypt, 156; ancient method of irrigation by shadouf, 157-158; poor pay for hard work, 158; prevalence of eye diseases, 159; squalid homes of the natives, 160; beauty of views along the Nile, 160

Osaka, Japan's chief manufacturing city, 29; Hideyoshi's castle, 29

Parsees, importance in municipal life of Bombay, 129; religion that of Zoroaster, 129-130; gifts by rich Parsee merchants, 131; quaint marriage customs, 132; towers of silence where dead are exposed, 133-135

Pyramids, among the oldest human work on earth, 161-163; size and cost of construction, 162-163; ascent of Gizeh, 163; features of the Sphinx, 164; rock tombs of Sakkara, 164

Raffles, Sir Stamford, the maker of Singapore and founder of great Malayan museum, 81

Rangoon, Burma's largest city, 89-92; elephants piling teak, 89-90; Shwe Dagon Pagoda, center of the Buddhist faith in Orient, 90-91; splendid decoration of shrines, 91-92

Shah Jehan, the greatest builder among the Mogul Emperors of India, who immortalized his name by erecting the Taj Mahal, 112

Singapore, gateway to the Far East, 80-88; humidity of atmosphere, 80; world's largest dry dock, 81; Sir Stamford Raffles, 81; great mixture of races, 81-82; traits of the Malay, 83; importance of Chinese, 84-85; night scenes in Malay and Chinese quarters, 85-87; large opium dens, 87; fine botanical gardens, 88

Taj Mahal, the world's most beautiful building at Agra, India, 111-116; built by Shah Jehan as memorial to favorite wife, 112; cost in money and human life, 112; its perfect architecture, 114; lavish decoration, 115; restoration by Lord Curzon, 116

Thebes, tomb city of the ancient Egyptian kings, 150-155; desolate site across the Nile from Luxor, 150-151; electric-lighted tombs, 151; rock-hewn tomb of Rameses IV, 152; tombs of other monarchs, 152-153; only one contains royal mummy, 154; fine temple of Queen Hatasu, 153; the Ramessium, with largest statue found in Egypt, 154; Colossi of Memnon, 154; why one of the statues was musical, 155

Tokio, the Japanese capital, 10-15; its splendid parks, 11-13-14; imperial palace, 13; tombs of six shoguns, 14; night work in shops, 15

Wheeler, General, whose confidence in his native troops, cost the lives of all the garrison of Cawnpore, 109

Yokohama, much Europeanized Japanese city, 3; good tourist outfitting point, 4

AND SO ENDS THE CRITIC IN THE ORIENT, CONTAINING THE IMPRESSIONS OF GEORGE HAMLIN FITCH ON THE FIRST HALF OF HIS TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. PUBLISHED IN BOOK FORM BY PAUL ELDER & COMPANY AND SEEN THROUGH THEIR TOMOYE PRESS BY JOHN SWART DURING THE MONTH OF APRIL, MCMXIII, IN THE CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO

TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES:

Inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words retained. (hotfoot, hot-foot)

In the original text, captions of plates and illustrations did not have terminating punctuation except for the caption of Plate XXXVII. This caption had a terminating period which has been retained.

In the original text, italic typeface was used for the entire text and headings of the chapters "Introduction" and "The Best Results of Travel in the Orient". In the plaintext version of this ebook, the usual underscore markup has not been used to indicate italic type in these chapters. Elsewhere in the text, occasional words in italic typeface have been marked up with underscores.

Pg. 12, unusual spelling of "embassadors" retained.

Pg. 12, duplicated word "of" removed. (mansions of the Japanese")

Pg. 112, duplicated word "on" removed. (little trace on its walls)

Pg. 161, "hugh" changed to "huge". (as huge as the pyramid)

Index. In the original text, the last sub-item of an index entry did not end with any terminating punctuation except for the index entry "Lawrence, Sir Henry". This entry had a terminating period which has been retained.

End of Project Gutenberg's The Critic in the Orient, by George Hamlin Fitch