Chapter 1

Chapter 13,436 wordsPublic domain

THE CRITIC IN THE ORIENT

GEORGE HAMLIN FITCH

AUTHOR OF "COMFORT FOUND IN GOOD OLD BOOKS" "MODERN ENGLISH BOOKS OF POWER" "THE CRITIC IN THE OCCIDENT"

East is East and West is West and never the twain shall meet, Till Earth and Sky stand presently at God's great Judgment Seat. --Kipling

ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS

PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY PUBLISHERS . SAN FRANCISCO

_Copyright, 1913_ by PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY

The chapters of this book appeared originally in the Sunday supplement of the San Francisco _Chronicle_. The privilege of reproducing them here is due to the courtesy of M. H. de Young, Esq.

The author is greatly indebted to Isaac O. Upham, Esq., for the fine photographs which illustrate the section on Japan and for several photographs of Indian scenes

TO MY FELLOW TOURISTS ON THE MINNESOTA, WHOSE COMPANIONSHIP MADE MANY TEDIOUS JOURNEYS BY LAND AND SEA ENJOYABLE

CONTENTS

PAGE

Introduction IX

The Best Results of Travel in the Orient XIII

Japan, The Picture Country of the Orient 1

First Impressions of Japan and the Life of the Japanese-- The Japanese Capital and its Parks and Temples--The Most Famous City of Temples in all Japan--In Kyoto, The Ancient Capital of Japan--Kobe, Osaka, The Inland Sea and Nagasaki--Development of the Japanese Sense of Beauty--Conclusions on Japanese Life and Character-- Will the Japanese Retain Their Good Traits?

Manila, Transformed by the Americans 49

First Impressions of Manila and Its Picturesque People-- American Work in the Philippine Islands--Scenes in the City of Manila and Suburbs.

Hongkong, Canton, Singapore and Rangoon 63

Hongkong, the Greatest British Port in the Orient--A Visit to Canton in Days of Wild Panic--Singapore, the Meeting Place of Many Races--strange Night Scenes in the City of Singapore--Characteristic Sights in Burma's Largest City.

India, The Land of Temples, Palaces and Monuments 93

Calcutta, the Most Beautiful of Oriental Cities--Bathing, and Burning the Dead at Benares--Lucknow and Cawnpore, Cities of the Mutiny--The Taj Mahal, the World's Loveliest Building--Delhi and Its Ancient Mohammedan Ruins--Scenes in Bombay When the King Arrived--Religion and Customs of the Bombay Parsees.

Egypt, The Home of Hieroglyphs, Tombs and Mummies 135

Picturesque Oriental Life as Seen in Cairo--Among the Ruins of Luxor and Karnak--Tombs of The Kings at Ancient Thebes--Sailing Down the Nile on a Small Steamer--Before the Pyramids and the Sphinx.

Hints for Travelers 167

Some Suggestions That May Save the Tourist Time and Money.

Bibliography 171

Books Which Help One to Understand the Orient and Its People.

Index 175

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

The Taj Mahal at Agra _Frontispiece_

The Yomei-mori Gate, Ieyasu Temple, Nikko _Facing_ 14

The Daibutsu or Great Bronze Buddha at Hyogo 30

Imperial Gate, Fort Santiago, Manila 56

The City of Boats at Canton 74

Hindoos Bathing in the Ganges at Benares 100

Front View of the Taj Mahal, Agra 114

One of the Main Avenues of Bombay 126

The Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak 146

PLATES

PLATE

Japan _Following page_ 48

Street Scene, Asakusa Park, Tokyo I

Entrance Hall of Modern Home of a Tokyo Millionaire II

Bronze Lanterns and Sacred Fountain, Shiba Temple, Tokyo III

Sacred Red Bridge at Nikko IV

Avenue of Cryptomeria to Futaaru Temple, Nikko V

Avenue of Cryptomeria Trees, near Nikko VI

Great Bronze Torii, Nikko VII

Stone Lanterns, Kasuga Temple Park, Nara VIII

Religious Procession, Kyoto IX

Scene on Canal, Kyoto X

Street Scene in Kobe XI

A Group of Japanese Schoolboys XII

Japanese Peasant Group by the Roadside XIII

Scene in Large Private Garden, Kyoto XIV

Iris Bed at Horikiri, near Tokyo XV

Private Garden, Kamakura XVI

Manila _Following page_ 62

A Glimpse of the Escolta, Manila XVII

Old Church and Bridge at Pasig XVIII

The Binondo Canal at Manila XIX

On the Malecon Drive, Manila XX

View on a Manila Canal XXI

A Filipino Peasant Girl on the Way to Market XXII

The Carabao Cart in the Philippines XXIII

The Nipa Hut of the Filipino XXIV

Hongkong, Canton, Singapore, Rangoon _Following page_ 91

Queen's Road in Hongkong. XXV

Flower Market in a Hongkong Street XXVI

Coolies Carrying Burdens at Hongkong XXVII

The Spacious Foreign Bund at Hongkong XXVIII

Chinese Junks in Hongkong Harbor XXIX

View of the Water-front at Canton XXX

The New Chinese Bund at Canton XXXI

A Confucian Festival at Singapore XXXII

A Main Street in the Native Quarter of Singapore XXXIII

The Y. M. C. A. Building at Singapore XXXIV

The Great Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon XXXV

Entrance to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda XXXVI

Burmese Worshipping in the Pagoda at Rangoon XXXVII

Riverside Scene at Rangoon XXXVIII

Trained Elephant Piling Teak at Rangoon XXXIX

Palm Avenue, Royal Lakes, Rangoon XL

India _Following page_ 134

One of the Main Gates to Government House, Calcutta XLI

A Street Scene in Calcutta XLII

The Great Burning Ghat at Benares XLIII

View of the Bathing Ghats at Benares XLIV

A Holy Man of Benares Under His Umbrella XLV

The Residency at Lucknow XLVI

Tomb of Itmad-ul-Daulet at Agra XLVII

The Mutiny Memorial at Cawnpore XLVIII

Detail of Carving in the Jasmine Tower, Agra XLIX

The Jasmine Tower in Agra Fort L

Snap-shot of a Jain Family at Agra LI

The Fort at Agra Which Encloses Many Palaces LII

Kutab Minar, the Arch and the Iron Pillar, near Delhi LIII

Shah Jehan's Heaven on Earth, Delhi LIV

Street View in Delhi LV

A Parsee Tower of Silence at Bombay LVI

Egypt _Following page_ 164

A Typical Street in Old Cairo LVII

An Arab Cafe in One of Cairo's Streets LVIII

Women Water Carriers in Turkish Costume LIX

The Rameseon at Karnak LX

The Avenue of Sphinxes at Karnak LXI

An Arab Village on the Nile LXII

The Colossi of Memnon, near Thebes LXIII

The Great Sphinx, Showing the Temple Underneath LXIV

Introduction

This book of impressions of the Far East is called "The Critic in the Orient," because the writer for over thirty years has been a professional critic of new books--one trained to get at the best in all literary works and reveal it to the reader. This critical work--a combination of rapid reading and equally rapid written estimate of new publications--would have been deadly, save for a love of books, so deep and enduring that it has turned drudgery into pastime and an enthusiasm for discovering good things in every new book which no amount of literary trash was ever able to smother.

After years of such strenuous critical work, the mind becomes molded in a certain cast. It is as impossible for me to put aside the habit of the literary critic as it would be for a hunter who had spent his whole life in the woods to be content in a great city. So when I started out on this trip around the world the critical apparatus which I had used in getting at the heart of books was applied to the people and the places along this great girdle about the globe.

Much of the benefit of foreign travel depends upon the reading that one has done. For years my eager curiosity about places had led me to read everything printed about the Orient and the South Seas. Add to this the stories which were brought into a newspaper office by globe trotters and adventurers, and you have an equipment which made me at times seem to be merely revising impressions made on an earlier journey. When you talk with a man who has spent ten or twenty years in Japan or China or the Straits Settlements, you cannot fail to get something of the color of life in those strange lands, especially if you have the newspaper training which impels you to ask questions and to drag out of your informant everything of human interest that the reader will care to know.

This newspaper instinct, which is developed by training but which one must possess in large measure before he can be successful in journalism, seizes upon everything and transmutes it into "copy" for the printer. To have taken this journey without setting down every day my impressions of places and people would have been a tiresome experience. What seemed labor to others who had not had my special training was as the breath in my nostrils. Even in the debilitating heat of the tropics it was always a pastime, never a task, to put into words my ideas of the historic places which I knew so well from years of reading and which I had just seen. And the richer the background of history, the greater was my enjoyment in painting with words full of color a picture of my impressions, for the benefit of those who were not able to share my pleasure in the actual sight of these famous places of the Far East.

From the mass of newspaper letters written while every impression was sharp and clear, I have selected what seemed to me most significant and illustrative. It is only when the traveler looks back over a journey that he gets the true perspective. Then only is he able to see what is of general and permanent interest. Most of the vexations of travel I have eliminated, as these lose their force once they have gone over into yesterday. What remains is the beauty of scenery, the grandeur of architecture, the spiritual quality of famous paintings and statues, the appealing traits of various peoples.

The Best Results of Travel in the Orient

This volume includes impressions of the first half of a trip around the world. The remainder of the journey will fill a companion volume, which will comprise two chapters devoted to New York and the effect it produced on me after seeing the great cities of the world. As I have said in the preface, these are necessarily first impressions, jotted down when fresh and clear; but it is doubtful whether a month spent in any of these places would have forced a revision of these first glimpses, set in the mordant of curiosity and enthusiasm. When the mind is saturated with the literature of a place, it is quick to seize on what appeals to the imagination, and this appeal is the one which must be considered in every case where there is an historical or legendary background to give salient relief to palace or temple, statue or painting. Without this background the noblest work seems dull and lifeless. With it the palace stamps itself upon the imagination, the temple stirs the emotions, the statue speaks, the painting has a direct spiritual message.

Certain parts of the Orient are not rich in this imaginative material which appeals to one fond of history or art; but this defect is compensated for by an extraordinary picturesqueness of life and a wonderful luxuriance of nature. The Oriental trip also makes less demand on one's reading than even a hasty journey through Europe. There are few pictures, few statues. Only India and Egypt appeal to the sense of the historical, Japan stands alone, alien to all our ways of life and thought, but so intensely artistic, so saturated with the intellectual spirit that it seems to belong to another world than this material, commercial existence that stamps all European and American life. The new China furnishes an attractive field of study, but unfortunately when I visited the country it was in the throes of revolution and travel was dangerous anywhere outside the great treaty ports.

One of the best results of foreign travel is that it makes one revise his estimate of alien races. When I started out it was with a strong prejudice against the Japanese, probably due to my observation of some rather unlovely specimens whom I had encountered in San Francisco. A short stay in Japan served to give me a new point of view in regard to both the people and the country of the Mikado. It was impossible to escape from the fact that here is a race which places loyalty to country and personal honor higher than life, and this sentiment was not confined to the educated and wealthy classes but was general throughout the nation. Here also is a people so devoted to the culture of beauty that they travel hundreds of miles to see the annual chrysanthemum and other flower festivals. And here is a people so devoted to art for art's sake that even the poor and uneducated have little gardens in their back yards and houses which reveal a refined taste in architecture and decoration. The poorest artisans are genuine artists and their work shows a beauty and a finish only to be found in the work of the highest designers in our country.

In one chapter of the section on Japan, I have dwelt on the ingenious theory that it is their devotion to the garden that has kept the Japanese from being spoiled by the great strides they have made in the last twenty years in commerce and conquest. To take foremost place among the powers of the world without any preliminary struggle is an achievement which well might turn the heads of any people; yet this exploit has simply confirmed the Japanese in the opinion that their national training has resulted in this success that other nations have won only by the expenditure of years of labor and study. When you see the reverence which every one in Japan shows at the tombs of the Forty-seven Ronins, you feel that here is a spiritual force which is lacking in every European country; here is something, whether you call it loyalty or patriotism or fanaticism, which makes even the women and children of Japan eager to sacrifice all that they hold most dear on the altar of their country. No less striking than their loyalty is the courtesy of the Japanese which makes travel in their country a pleasure. Even the poor and ignorant country people show in their mutual relations a politeness that would do credit to the most civilized race, while all exhibit toward foreigners a courtesy and consideration that is often repaid by boorishness and insult on the part of tourists and foreign residents of Japan. Another feature of Japanese life that cannot fail to impress the stranger is the small weight that is given to wealth. In their relations with foreigners the governing class and the wealthy people are sticklers for all the conventional forms; but among themselves the simplicity of their social life is very attractive. Elaborate functions are unknown and changes of costume, which make women's dress so large an item of family expense in any European country, are unnecessary. Some of the rich Japanese are now lavishing money on their homes, which are partly modeled on European plans; but in the main the residences, even of rich people, are very simple and unpretentious. These homes are filled with priceless porcelains, jades, paintings and prints, but there is no display merely for the sake of exhibiting art treasures.

In Manila the American tourist has a good opportunity to contrast what has been done by his countrymen with what the British have accomplished in ports like Hongkong and Singapore. Doubtless the English plan will show the larger financial returns, but it is carried out with a selfish disregard of the interests of the natives which stirs the gorge of an American. The Englishman believes in keeping a wide gulf between the dominant and the humble classes. He does not believe in educating the native to think that he can rise from the class in which he is born. The American scheme in the Philippines has been to encourage the development of character and efficiency, wherever found; and the result is that many public positions are open to men who were head-hunting savages ten years ago. Above all other things in the Philippines we have proved, as we have shown at Panama, that a tropical climate need not be an unhealthful one. We have banished from Manila cholera, yellow fever and bubonic plague--three pests that once made it dreaded in the Orient. This, with an ample water supply, is an achievement worthy of pride, when one contrasts it with the unsanitary sewerage system of Hongkong and Singapore.

The small part of the great Chinese Empire which I was able to see gave me a vivid impression of the activity and enthusiasm of the people in spreading the new Republican doctrines. The way old things have been put aside and the new customs adopted seems almost like a miracle. Fancy a whole people discarding their time-honored methods of examination for the civil service, along with their queues, their caps and their shoes. All the authorities have predicted that China would be centuries in showing the same changes which the Japanese have made in a single generation; but recent events go far to prove that Japan will be outstripped in the race for progress by its slow-going neighbor. What profoundly impresses any visitor to China is the stamina and the working capacity of the common people. Tireless laborers these Chinese are, whether they work for themselves or the European. What they will be able to accomplish with labor-saving machinery no one can predict. Certainly should they accept modern methods of work, with the same enthusiasm that they have adopted new methods of government, the markets of the world will be upset by the product of these four hundred million. China is to-day in transformation--fluctuant, far-reaching, limited only by the capacity of a singularly excitable people to absorb new ideas.

In India great is the contrast to China and Japan. Here is an old civilization, founded on caste: here are many peoples but all joined to the worship of a system that says the son must follow in the footsteps of the father; that one cannot break bread with a stranger of another caste lest he and his tribe be defiled. Nothing more hideous was ever conceived than this Indian caste system, yet it has held its own against the force of foreign learning and probably will continue to fetter the development of the natives of India for centuries to come. Some simple reforms the English have secured, like the abolition of suttee and the improved condition of the child widows; but their influence on the great mass of the people has been pitiably small. India bears the same relation to the Orient that Italy does to Europe. It is the home of temples, palaces and monuments; it is the land of beautiful art work in many materials. Most of its cities have a splendid historical past that is seen in richly ornamented temples and shrines, in the tombs of its illustrious dead and in palaces that surpass in beauty of decoration anything which Europe can boast.

In considering India it must always be borne in mind that here was the original seat of the Aryan civilization and that, though the Hindoo is as dark as many of the American negroes, he is of Aryan stock like ourselves. In comparison with the men who carried Aryan civilization throughout the world, the Hindoo of to-day is as far removed as is the modern Greek from the Greek of the time of Pericles and Phidias. Yet he shows all the signs of race in clear-cut features and in small hands and feet.

The journey throughout India is one which calls for some philosophy, as the train arrangements are never good and, unless one has the luck to secure a competent guide, he will be annoyed by the excessive greed of every one with whom he comes in contact. But aside from such troubles the trip is one which richly repays the traveler. If one has time it is admirable to go off the beaten track to some of the minor places which have fine historical remains; but a good idea of India may be obtained by taking the regular route from Calcutta to Bombay, by way of Delhi.

In Benares the tourist first meets the swarms of beggars that make life a burden. Aged men, with loathsome sores, stand whining at corners beseeching the favor of a two-anna piece; blind men, led by small, skinny children, set up a mournful wail and then curse you fluently when you pass them by, and scores of children rise up out of hovels at the roadside and pursue your carriage with shrill screams. All are filthy, clamorous, greedy, inexpressibly offensive. If you are soft hearted and give to one, then your day is made hideous by a swarm of mendicants, tireless in pursuit and only kept from actual invasion of the carriage by fear of the driver's whip.