Part 3
=When a coat is too large over the chest=, and by setting the buttons back from the edge two and one-half inches (which is only to be done in extreme cases) will not have the desired effect; run a row of basting cotton around arm hole two inches from the sleeve seam, across shoulder to the front end of collar and two inches from the shoulder seam. Rip sleeves and shoulders out and collar off from end to end, press seam out smooth, and mark with chalk the amount shoulder is to be advanced, say from one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch, as the case may be (this may be easily determined when the coat is on the customer, notice the amount of lap and then judge the amount), baste back shoulder to forepart of coat having the top of back even with the chalk mark; seam and press open, baste shoulder and lining together, now baste collar on, then baste sleeve in, and seam and press open seam as before and fix up sleeve head, and cut off end of shoulder amount shoulder was advanced at shoulder point. This will take surplus goods away from the front and allow goods to go back; finish collar, shoulders and sleeves and press.
Double breasted coats are different, the buttons may be set from the edge, according to style and fashion.
When a coat is too large in the back, take part out in the side seams and part out in the center back seam; the best way to determine the amount to be taken out, is to pin each seam a trifle when customer has coat on, then one will get the proper effect of the alteration.
=When a vest is too large around=, it may be pinned on the customer, down the side seams and center back the desired amount to be taken out; this alteration may be done in the following manner: Rip vest across back of neck, rip each side seam, mark with chalk the amount to be taken in on each side seam and center back seams. Baste forepart to that of the back at side seams and baste center back seam together, lining and outside.
Seam on machine, remove the basting, turn vest right side out and fell across back of neck. Press side seams, back and around neck; place on hanger to retain shape.
=When vest is to be made larger=, proceed as follows: Rip side seams and across the back of neck, press out side seams of back, and remove stitches, and if there is an outlet, mark with chalk the amount to be let out on each side, and baste as before and finish the same. If there is no outlet, one must sew a piece of lining to the outside and inside lining; press open the seams or stitch to one side and press. Then mark with chalk the amount to be let out and proceed as explained and finish.
=When trousers are too long=, they may be shortened in the following manner: Mark with chalk (using the tape line for measuring length) the desired length, loosen the bottoms, (if felled, rip with knife or scissors, being careful not to cut the cloth), if there is rubber in the bottoms, wet a piece of cloth with gasolene, and rub over the outside and pull turn up free from the bottoms. Turn trousers inside out, allow to dry after using gasolene before turning up bottoms. If rubber is to be put in the bottoms, cut a piece one inch and a half wide, and baste in the turn up or hem and fasten hem to the side seams with silk, only leave a two inch turn up, cut balance off.
Before pressing, place on the small end of press-jack and press all around as in pressing cuffs or bottom of trousers as explained. (But not with sponge cloth, only with iron and wet bottoms with sponge). Press until rubber is thoroughly melted and set. When one has pressed both bottoms all around, turn trousers right side out and press bottoms as in ordinary pressing.
When bottoms are felled, leave two inches for turn up and cut off the balance. Fell with silk all around, being careful not to let stitches show through on right side. Press bottoms same as explained.
=When trousers are to be lengthened=, loosen them at the bottom measure with tape line, the desired length, from crotch down, making them one inch shorter in the back or according to fashion. Mark with chalk the desired length, and place rubber or fell as the case may be, and press as explained; but if trousers are to be lengthened, all. It will be necessary, to sew a piece of cloth to the bottoms same size and same cloth (or as near as possible), sew on machine and baste edges out even, and place rubber or fell; press bottoms and finish in the usual way by turning trousers right side out, and pressing bottoms and legs. Sew heel protectors on (they may be made of silesia by turning all edges in, or made of cloth, same material as trousers) half inch wide and four inches long, sewn half; each side of the center or crease of back trouser bottom. This must be sewed to the inside of bottom.
=When trousers are too large around the waist=, mark with chalk (or pin on customer), the amount to be taken in, rip back seam down as far as is required. Remove the two back suspender buttons and rip lining back far enough for convenience in working. Baste the back seam together and sew in the chalk mark (by machine or by hand) to within two inches of the top of waist band; press seam open and fasten back seam at waist to the waist band on each side and leave an outlet one inch and a half wide, each side of the back seam at the top, tapering to nothing at the bottom or three inches from the inside leg seam.
Sew back suspender buttons on two inches each side of back seam. Put a good neck on buttons to allow suspender button holes to fit smoothly around button. This may be done by placing a match or pin over the top of button and sewing over it, filling the holes with twisted thread or button cord made for that purpose, as explained in (how to make button cord.)
When holes are filled, remove the match or pin, and wind cord around under button, and fasten by taking two stitches through the neck, and cut thread off. Now fell lining back in place, leaving an opening at top of, say two inches in back seam for ease. Press and finish in the usual way.
=When trousers are to be made larger around waist=, rip lining three inches each side of the back seam at top and remove the two top back suspender buttons. Rip back seam down the required amount and press out the mark made by the seam. Now with the chalk, mark the amount to be made larger, half the amount on each side of seam, baste seam and sew on machine or by hand in chalk mark. Remove basting, and press seam open, fasten to each side of the seam at waist as before, leaving two inches open at the top for ease. Sew two back suspender buttons on; and fell waist band lining. Finish and press in the usual way.
=When trousers are to be made larger at the waist=, and there is nothing to let out, remove back suspender buttons as explained, and waist band lining. Cut a piece of cloth "V" shape as long as is necessary and of the same material or as near as possible; make this piece two seams wider than required. This may be determined by the amount to be made larger, (the larger the piece at the top, the longer the wedge will have to be, as it will not do to have an abrupt slant). Baste right sides of cloth and trousers together, sew on machine and remove basting and press open the seam. Then baste other side and seam, then press open; fasten a piece of canvas across the top of waist where piece has been set in, and stitch with machine across, in keeping with the stitching on the waist band. If no waist seam, just stitch even with the waist stitching. Sew back suspender buttons on, and fell waist band lining at top, and finish as explained, fastening waist band lining to seams to hold it in place; press and finish. When pressing seams, always press on the smooth side of the press-jack, and dampen with the wet sponge, this will make pressing easier; but do not put too much water on seams.
=How to make button cords for sewing on buttons=. Thread a needle with linen thread double, then rub beeswax up and down the thread; then twist, and when one has twisted enough, rub with a piece of cloth. This will help to keep the twist in the cord and make it strong, which is very essential in sewing on buttons; one knows how annoying it is to have buttons coming off; this may be prevented by sewing them on good with twisted thread.
When using silk thread, always draw it through beeswax and rub through cloth to remove excess wax. This will make the silk stronger, and also will slip through the cloth more easily when sewing.
=A good method of hanging a skirt.= Have customer stand on top of the stairs, the fitter sitting on the second step. This is an easy way to see that skirts hang evenly all around, marking the proper length without rising, or getting on the knees or sitting on the floor.
=Ironing over buttons made easy and safe.= Place four ply wadding on press-jack, buttons facing wadding. Iron from the wrong side until dry. This is equally good in ironing embroidery waists. (When ironing embroidery white wadding should be used.)
LESSON V.
PRESSING.
How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods for dressmakers and tailors, before making into garments, also for one's own use at home. How to use the iron and sponge cloths. How to press hard finished worsteds. How to press single and double breasted sack coats, overcoats, rain coats, Tuxedos, motormen and conductors, also fatigue coats, cutaways, morning, dress coats, Prince Alberts, military, clerical, uniforms, footman's liveries, Newmarket, Paddock and Palitot. All kind of jackets, coats and skirts for ladies. How to press single and double breasted vests with or without collars, also clerical and fancy vests. How to press trousers.
How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods for dressmakers and tailors, before making into garments, also for one's use at home.
To prepare a sponge cloth for that purpose, use unbleached cotton four yards long, (or as long as the cloth to be shrunk requires), boil in soap and water for one hour, rinse in clean water to remove any lint, then it is ready for use.
Place woolen goods to be sponged on a table or clean floor, then wet the sponge cloth by dipping it into a pail or basin of warm water so that it will get thoroughly wet, wring out almost dry (but not so dry as when pressing) and place over the goods smoothly, see that the cloth is free from wrinkles. Make a flat roll six inches wide, or as wide as a wrapping board would be (do not roll on a board as it will leave a mark difficult to remove). Roll evenly until cloth to be shrunk is thoroughly covered, sides and ends with sponge cloth.
=Time required for goods to remain in sponge.= Close woven material, such as hard finished worsteds, broad cloth, kerseys, meltons and beavers, require to be left in sponge three hours while open wove goods, such as homespuns, unfinished worsteds, soft overcoatings, and ladies' cloth requires but two hours. When goods is ready to be taken out of sponge, unroll and place over a round pole, (sufficient height to allow cloth to clear the floor), or lay smoothly on a table or floor.
When dry, fold (not roll) double, and so on until you have a fold seven or eight inches wide, and small enough to place in a package.
The wrinkles may be pressed out with a warm iron, being careful not to allow gloss to form, and see that iron is not hot enough to burn or scorch cloth. Also to see that ends are even especially on stripes and checks, and to see that checks and plaids match.
When pressing always have the iron to the right on the table, the edge of the garment facing toward the presser. Start pressing the right side of all garments first. In this way forming a system of doing the work.
When pressing all kinds of coats, vests, ladies' jackets and coats, have the neck, collar, or waist seam lying on the small end of the press-jack, and start from the center back seam of all coats and vests, and press forward on the right side, toward the front edge.
To press the left side of all coats and vests, reverse the press-jack and garment so that neck, collar waist seam or band is lying to the left. Commencing as before, from the center back seam of garment, and continue pressing left side, and around to the front edge, which must be facing the presser.
Coats, vests, jackets and coats, should be placed on hangers to retain their proper shape.
A good iron rest for the table, is made by nailing a smooth horseshoe to a block of wood, a trifle larger than the shoe.
When using the under woolen press cloth, cotton sponge cloth and iron, lay the under woolen press cloth, and sponge cloth on that part of the garment to be pressed, and apply the iron until sponge cloth shows signs of drying. Then remove the cloths and iron, and slap with the back of the brush that part just pressed, to refreshen same, and brush the part pressed, with the thread or nap of the fabric; thus making the garment look like new. Go over the entire garment (and all garments) in this manner until the whole garment has been pressed.
When trousers have been pressed, place them over a round pole, suspended from the ceiling, or fastened to the wall with brackets. A still better way is to place them on individual hangers.
Do not give customers garments damp from pressing, place them on hangers and allow them to remain for one hour before wearing or delivering.
Do not try to press clothes that are damp from cleaning or otherwise. Allow them to thoroughly dry, when they will press more easily, and customers better satisfied, by giving them first-rate work.
When a garment has been pressed all over, examine it thoroughly for gloss, and where any appears, remove it as explained (in how to press hard finished worsteds.)
This process should be followed carefully when pressing all kinds of garments.
When pressing, the iron should never be shoved or pushed, as in ironing, as before explained; as it is apt to stretch where not required. Only heavy materials require heavy pressing or great strength. Whatever the material, pressing is work that requires to be done carefully and slowly. When pressing seams, allow the iron to touch only the center of the seam, then the edges of the seam will not be outlined on the outside of the garment. This however, is only intended for light weight goods, as when pressing seams in heavy material, it is necessary to press more solid.
=How to press hard finished worsteds.= When pressing hard finished worsteds, place under woolen press cloth, and sponge cloth over the part to be pressed, (wring sponge cloth as nearly dry as possible), and apply the iron, not too hot, allowing it to rest until sponge cloth is entirely dry. (This is termed by tailors, as dry pressing or glossing). Now remove iron, and press cloths and place a damp part of the sponge cloth over that part just pressed, to remove the gloss, if any, by applying the iron lightly, and slap with the back of the brush while steaming. Also brushing the nap of the cloth.
Avoid stretching while pressing especially the edges and collar, unless it is required, (and the presser understands where to stretch, and is familiar with the fitting qualities of the garment.) When pressing around the pockets, have flaps on the outside, and turn pockets inside out before cleaning, that all dust and dirt may be removed, then return the pockets to their proper place before starting to press.
When a coat or vest is placed on the table or press-jack, to be pressed, and one notices fullness along front edges and bottom, press fullness away by laying under press cloth and sponge cloth over part to be pressed and leave iron until sponge cloth is entirely dry, then remove cloths and apply a damp part of the press cloth, and iron again to remove gloss as explained before. Always have edge of garments pointing toward the presser. This may be learned and accomplished in a short time with little practice.
=How to clean and press single and double breasted sack coats, motormen and conductors, also fatigue=: Brush thoroughly, and if necessary whip with cane, being careful not to break the buttons on the garment. Turn all pockets inside out, and have flaps on the outside. Remove all spots; special care must be taken to remove grease and dirt from the collar, also the fronts, with the cleaning fluid. Place on coat hangers and when dry, proceed to press as follows:
Have coat lying on the table or tailor's bench to the right, draw the right cuff over the small end of the press-jack which should be pointing to the right. Lay the sponge cloths over that part of the garment to be pressed, (which you have prepared by wetting in a pail or basin of warm water used for that purpose and wrung until almost dry), then apply the iron until the sponge cloths shows sign of drying. Then remove the sponge cloths and iron, and slap with the back of brush (as has been explained.)
Continue this around the right sleeve cuff, and also the left. Then with the coat in the same position, reverse the press-jack and place the right sleeve, top side up on the large end of the press-jack, being careful to have the sleeve smoothed out nicely, then lay sponge cloths over and apply the iron, pressing full length and width, up and down the sleeve, (being careful to see that no wrinkles are pressed in the sleeve.)
Remove the cloths and iron as before, slapping with the back of the brush, then brushing the nap to refreshen the cloth.
Turn sleeve over and press under side of sleeve the same.
Press left sleeve in the same manner. Crease sleeves front and back, if requested by customer.
Reverse the press-jack and draw right shoulder of coat over the small end of the press-jack in a convenient manner, and press around the armholes, by laying the sponge cloths on the part to be pressed. Apply the iron as before, and then slap with the back of the brush. Now press around left shoulder and arm hole in the same manner.
Next place the coat so that the collar points to the right on the large end of the press-jack. Lay the sponge cloths on the back of the coat, applying the iron as before, and press down back and around right side of coat to the front edge; always having the edge of the garment toward the presser. Reverse press-jack and coat, then as before, commence pressing at the center back seam, and forward to the front edge. This completes the left side.
Place the coat on table or tailor's bench, and reverse press-jack; lift coat and place collar or press-jack in a convenient way, so that the collar and lapel, when pressed, will be creased the same as when worn.
Commence pressing from the center of collar to the right side of lapel, being careful not to stretch the edges of lapel or collar. Then from the center of collar at the back, press forward on left side as before. Turn coat inside out, and smooth lining with cool iron, and with an almost dry sponge cloth. This will remove any wrinkles, and leave the lining smooth.
Now press the right side of facing and lapel, by laying four-ply of wadding on the press-jack, and place right forepart of coat so that the buttons face toward the wadding, and press on the wrong side, the buttons will sink into the wadding thereby avoiding the breaking of same, which is very easily done if great care is not taken. Now remove the wadding and press left side on the padded side of press-jack in the usual manner. Now turn the coat right side out, place right shoulder in a convenient manner on the small end of the press-jack, and if any wrinkles appear on top of the right sleeve head, press them out. Do the same with the left side.
Look coat over thoroughly for gloss, if any appears, place coat on press-jack in a convenient manner and remove as explained.
When pressing coats, be careful to have the flaps on the outside, the pockets returned to their proper place inside, before starting to press.
Roll fronts of coats to the inside, so that they will retain their proper shape, also to give to them that chesty effect, which is very essential, in the pressing of all kinds of coats, and vests. One will soon become familiar with the work by a little practice.
Place coats on hangers to dry before wearing or delivering. Sack overcoats, rain-coats and Tuxedos, are pressed in the same way.
=How to clean and press cutaway dress, Prince Albert, military, clerical, uniforms, footman's liveries, Newmarket, Paddock and Palitot.= The above garments are cleaned and pressed the same as other garments, but with this difference:--Coats with skirts are pressed from the collar or neck to the waist line or seam, then moved up to the waist line or seam, and pressed from that to the bottom of skirt, and around to the front, having the edge of the garment pointing toward the presser. All coats lined with silk are pressed very lightly, especially lapels and facings (as the mark of the iron shows easy; and on silks is difficult to remove.)
Silk should look fluffy in a garment, and therefore does not require much pressing. Great care must be taken when cleaning, pressing, and repairing dress suits, Tuxedos, Prince Alberts, and any garment that is silk lined. The price to charge for such work may only be figured by the amount of silk, and time required to do the work. Silk facings may be had by mailing samples to this office, and we will send price list.
=How to clean and press ladies' jackets and coats=: Brush thoroughly, and if necessary, whip with cane to remove all dust and dirt. Remove all spots with the cleaning fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as follows: Ladies' jackets and coats are pressed the same as men's, but with the following differences: Press around cuffs, sleeves and shoulders on the small end of the press-jack, then start at the center back seam and press forward to the front edge, having the collar or neck pointing to the right. Always have the edge of the garment facing the presser. Reverse the press-jack, coat or jacket, and commence pressing as before, down the back seam and around left side to front edge. Lay sleeves on the press-jack and press as before, being careful to have plaits in the right creases and the gatherings in their proper place. Do not allow more plaits or wrinkles to form on the top of the sleeves than is needed.
=How to clean and press all kinds of skirts for ladies=, Brush thoroughly and whip if necessary, turn the skirt inside out, and brush dust and dirt, from the seams and bottom. Clean all grease spots, if any, with the cleaning fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as follows: Draw skirt on press-jack with the waist band pointing to the left, on the small end of the press-jack; the skirt to be drawn on the press-jack to the left. Use the sponge cloths and iron the same as when pressing other garments. Press around the top of the skirt and as far below as the press-jack will allow. If skirt is plaited, be careful to have the plaits lying smooth on the press-jack, either pin or baste plaits in their proper creases before starting to press.
When pressing thin skirts, it is not necessary to press very hard, only until the steam arises, then slap with the back of the brush to keep steam in the goods, also to refreshen the garment. Place on skirt hangers to dry before wearing or delivering. Always look for gloss, and if any appears, remove as explained.