Part 1

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The Copeland METHOD

INDEX.

PAGE

Equipment 3

Tools Required and their Use 3

Formula for Cleaning Fluid 6

Formula, how to make 7

Formula for Moth Preventative 7

How to Use Cleaning Fluids 7

How to Prepare Garments to be Cleaned 7

How to Clean Garments 8

To Remove Stains, etc. 13

Repairing 14

Darning a Three-Cornered Tear 20

Alterations 21

Pressing 28

How to Clean Cutaway, Prince Albert, Military and other Uniforms 33

How to Clean and Press Ladies' Jackets, etc. 33

Selection of Materials, etc. 37

Care of Clothes 38

Folding of Clothes 42

Testing Goods 43

Price List for Cleaning and Pressing 44

How to Dress and What to Wear 45

Business Etiquette 55

The Copeland METHOD

A Complete Manual for Cleaning, Repairing, Altering and Pressing all kinds of Garments for Men and Women, at home or for business.

Copyrighted 1908.

BY

VANNESS COPELAND,

BUFFALO, N. Y.

INTRODUCTORY.

High birth and good breeding are the privileges of the few; but the habits of a gentleman may be acquired by any man. Neatness is not an art requiring the study of a life time; on the contrary it's principles are simple, and their practical application involves only ordinary care.

To gain the good opinion of those who surround us is the first interest and the second duty of men in every profession of life. First impressions are apt to be permanent; it is therefore of importance that they should be favorable. Frequently the dress of an individual is that circumstance from which you first form your opinion. It is even more prominent than manner. It is indeed one of the first things noticed in a casual encounter or during the first interview. Chesterfield has said that "He could not help conceiving some idea of the people's sense and character from the appearance of their dress which they appeared when first introduced to him."

In the preparation of this book, it has been the aim of the maker to give in a concise form, all that is properly embraced in a comprehensive work on not only keeping our wardrobes in such a state as to cause us to appear to the best advantage, but also to give a complete instruction in the manipulation of garments and tools used in the process of properly cleaning, pressing and repairing all kinds of garments for men and women.

A few hints may be helpful to the beginner as well as to those in the business.

Observe a well dressed man or woman on the street or elsewhere, note the make up and fitting points of their garments, this will help the student to know good work, and try to do as well when doing the work himself.

When learning the method of cleaning, repairing and pressing all kinds of garments for men and women, it is a good idea, if possible, to have a garment of the same sort as one is studying close at hand, following closely the instructions over all parts of the garment; thereby understanding the teachings better and become more familiar with the work.

Should a garment need repairing of any kind or a button sewed on, do it and charge accordingly.

Never give a customer clothes that are damp from pressing, allow them to dry before wearing or delivering.

LESSON I.

EQUIPMENT.

Introduction: A few hints to the beginner as well as to those now in the business. The tools required and the best method of using same, for work at home or for business.

TOOLS REQUIRED AND THEIR USE:

The tools required for cleaning, repairing and pressing at home, or for business are as follows:

For work at home, use an ordinary kitchen table with smooth top. For use in business, a table eight feet long, three feet wide and thirty inches high (or as high as is convenient for the presser, this may be easily determined by using). This is called a tailor's bench. The balance of the tools are the same for work at home or for business.

The kitchen table or tailor's bench may be used for several purposes; the first of which is to place the iron, press-jack, sponge cloth, and garment while cleaning and pressing. Also for men to sit on while sewing.

THE IRON.

One may use an ordinary laundry iron (but would advise the purchase of a solid iron or tailor's goose, weighing from fourteen to twenty-two pounds, or according to one's strength), one may heat the iron on a coal range, gas or oil stove; or one may use a gas or electric iron, which are being used with great satisfaction, and are easily handled, being of little trouble to operate, also doing the work well. However, it is best to use whatever one considers most convenient, cheapest and best for the locality in which one resides.

The iron is heated and placed on the iron rest, which has been placed on the table for that purpose, to the right of the presser, and is applied to the sponge cloth (that has been wrung out almost dry), causing steam to penetrate that part of the garment being pressed, thereby refreshing the cloth.

The presser should have control of the iron at all times, also see that the iron is not too hot before using by testing it on a piece of light colored woolen material. If it scorches it is too hot for use, wait for a few minutes to cool.

When pressing move the iron from place to place, on the part to be pressed, by lifting it clear each time, instead of shoving it along as some do. (To shove the iron along on the work is apt to stretch garments where not required, and also cause wrinkles). Keep the face of iron smooth by rubbing wax over the surface frequently, thereby removing any lint or dirt that may accumulate from time to time.

THE PRESS-JACK.

A press-jack such as the tailors use, is made of two hardwood boards, thirty-five inches long, one inch thick, planed both sides and edges and cut egg-shape; the wide end being eight inches in width, and the narrow or small end, four inches wide, one forming the top and the other the bottom.

Between the top and bottom are screwed two blocks of solid wood, four by four inches, and six inches high. The first one is screwed to the top and bottom, three inches from the large end, and the second block is screwed to the top and bottom, seven inches from the large end, thereby leaving a space to the small end, of twenty-eight inches, for convenience in handling the garments while pressing.

The top of the press-jack is left perfectly plain and smooth; the bottom, however, is padded for convenience for pressing with ten-ply of wadding, cut the same shape of board or bottom of press-jack. Over this place a piece of white heavy drilling, drawn tight over the wadding to keep in place and tacked all around the edges with brass head tacks. Cut cotton off evenly around the edges beyond the tacks. This completes the press-jack and is ready for use.

The press-jack as tailors term it, is used for the pressing of clothes, and is also useful to lay clothes on while cleaning.

THE BRUSH.

A brush with a plain back and handle. (Never use a whisk broom to brush clothes as it injures the fibre of the cloth.)

The brush is used to brush garments thoroughly before cleaning and is used in connection with the pressing of garments, to slap with the back the part pressed, thereby keeping the steam in, and making the cloth sweat. The face to brush the nap of cloth, thereby refreshing the garment, making it look like new.

THE SPONGE CLOTH.

A sponge cloth is made of heavy unbleached cotton, one yard and a half long, boiled in soap and water for one hour, then rinse in clean water, thus removing the lint.

The sponge cloth should be dipped in warm water, and wrung out almost dry by hand, (or one may use a clothes wringer if preferred) thereby keeping it clean and free from grease and dirt that may stick to it from time to time.

The sponge cloth is used to lay over the "woolen press cloth" that has been placed over that part of the garment to be pressed, also it is the cloth which is to be dampened and when iron is applied causes steam to be forced into the garment thereby instilling new life into the cloth as it were.

THE UNDER WOOLEN PRESS CLOTH.

Is made of a piece of plain light colored unfinished or finished worsted one yard long and eighteen inches wide.

Place this under woolen press cloth over that part of garment to be pressed, then lay the sponge cloth on top of this, and apply the iron.

By using these two press cloths together, prevents glossing the garment to a great extent, and may be used when pressing all kinds of garments for men and women.

COAT AND TROUSER HANGERS, ETC.

Coat and trouser hangers are used to place the several garments on to retain their shape after cleaning and pressing. They are also very essential in the home to place garments on that are not in use or being worn, it is better to place garments on forms than to hang up by loops that are placed on garments by tailors.

Other necessities used in the cleaning, repairing and pressing of garments, are the sponge, tape measure, scissors, tailor's chalk, needles, thimble, bodkin for pulling bastings, a sewing machine, a large mirror, fashion plates, chairs, desk and safe, if one wishes.

Afterward one may add as many tools as necessity requires and their business permits.

LESSON II.

CLEANING.

Consists of several formulas for making Standard cleaning fluids, and the best method of using same, in the cleaning of all kinds of garments. How to prepare garments to be cleaned. How to steam clean. How to dry clean. The secret of success in cleaning. To clean velvet and velveteen. To remove paint, tar, grease and ink from garments. How to wash woolens. How to wash black woolen dresses. How to clean silk, satin and lace. To remove grease from delicate fabrics. To remove stains from linen and cotton goods. A formula for making moth preventative.

CLEANING FLUID.

(Formula.)

2 ounces Chloroform. 3 ounces Wood Alcohol. 2 ounces Sulphur Ether. 2 ounces Spirit of Wine. 10 ounces Ammonia. 3 ounces Oil of Turpentine. 2 ounces Glycerine. Place all seven chemicals in one bottle. 3 ounces Borax. 3 ounces French Castile Soap.

DIRECTIONS TO MIX:

Cut the French Castile Soap in fine shavings, dissolve them together with the Borax, in four quarts of boiling water, cool this solution, being careful that all the soap is dissolved, then strain through muslin or thin woolen cloth, to remove any sediment. Then add the other seven chemicals, mix and shake well. This will make five quarts Cleaning Fluid.

This cleaning fluid may be used on any garment with good results, as it will not injure the fibre of the cloth. Always rinse spot good with clean water and sponge, after using cleaning fluids.

HOW TO PREPARE A SIMPLE CLEANING FLUID.

(Formula.)

4 ounces Ammonia. 4 ounces Bay Rum. 1-6 ounce Salt Peter.

To this add one pint of clean water, pour in a small neck bottle, keep well corked to avoid evaporating.

This preparation will remove fresh or hard paint, tar, grease, oil and in fact any spots from clothing, dress goods, carpets, rugs, and all woolen goods without injury to the fabric. The above may be obtained at any drug store.

HOW TO PREPARE MOTH PREVENTATIVE.

(Formula.)

4 ounces Powder Borax. 4 ounces Powder Alum. 4 ounces Powder Camphor.

Mix all three chemicals together thoroughly. This will make a white powder. Sprinkle freely around and under carpets before laying, also over clothing not in use. This powder will not leave a stain, and is easily brushed off. Use freely wherever moths appear.

HOW TO USE THE CLEANING FLUIDS.

Dampen a sponge or woolen cloth (white flannel is the best as there is no color to come out) by dipping it in the cleaning fluid, which has been poured into a basin for that purpose and convenience. Rub the spot to be cleaned with the dampened sponge, woolen cloth (or flannel) with the thread or nap of the cloth until the grease and dirt is loosened, then rinse with clean water, (always rinse sponge, cloth or flannel in clean water before cleaning the stain a second time with pure water) until stain entirely disappears.

Always clean garments before repairing or relining.

HOW TO PREPARE GARMENTS TO BE CLEANED.

Turn all pockets inside out. Brush thoroughly and whip with cane if necessary, being careful not to break the buttons on the garment.

See that the dust and dirt is thoroughly removed from the pockets, then return pockets to their place. This is a very important part and one which is very often neglected and overlooked. The garment is then ready to be cleaned. Proceed as above explained. If one application is not sufficient to remove the spots, repeat until spots are thoroughly removed.

Coats are usually very dirty and greasy around the collar also down the fronts, great care should be taken to clean thoroughly and rinse often, thereby removing all stains.

All coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies' jackets, coats, waists, and all kinds of skirts should be cleaned by this same method.

HOW TO STEAM CLEAN.

To steam clean coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies jackets and skirts and all wool garments:

Place each garment in a basin of warm water first, and with soap and a brush go over the entire garment thoroughly, including sleeve lining.

Second--pour water off and fill basin again with warmer water than at first, and wash with stiff brush and soap as before, using three waters or until garment is thoroughly cleaned.

Remove soap water (do not wring garments but allow to drip, or squeeze water out) and rinse in hot water, then warm, then cooler, and so on until cold, adding one tablespoonful of coarse salt. (Dissolve salt in cold water before placing in basin). This will prevent garment from shrinking. Place on hanger to retain their shape, allowing water to drip out. Straighten out wrinkles as much as possible when drying, thus making the pressing easier, and when thoroughly dry, proceed to press as explained. If any spots remain after this process, remove with ammonia.

For those who perspire under the arms freely, dress shields placed in the bottom of the arm holes of coats will be of great benefit.

HOW TO DRY CLEAN.

Use a basin large enough to hold one gallon of gasolene and the garment to be cleaned. (Being careful to keep gasolene away from the stove or a lighted candle, lamp, or gas.)

Place one gallon of gasolene in the basin with the coat, and swash up and down until all grease and dirt has been loosened, then place on hangers in the open air, allowing to dry and gasolene to evaporate.

Before dipping the coat in the basin, see that all dust and dirt is removed from the pockets by turning them inside out and brushing, also brush all seams.

Use half a gallon for the vest, and one gallon for the trousers. The more gasolene used, the better will be the results.

Gasolene may be used a second time on black goods, after filtering or settling, but never on light colored materials, ladies' jackets, coats, wool waists, and skirts may be cleaned in the same way.

Gasolene, benzine, naptha, turpentine and ammonia should be of the best and purest, when used for cleaning purposes.

The secret of success in cleaning, is by dipping the garment in a large quantity of the liquid. Not less than a gallon of gasolene, benzine or naptha should be used for a coat, jacket or skirt. Two gallons will do the work better. One should remove all spots if possible before dipping in the liquid. It is a good idea to surround each spot with a basting thread as when wet, some spots do not show. Soak each garment in the clear liquid, then soap all spots thoroughly, rub gently between the hands until spots disappear. Then wash and rinse garment in clear liquid. Place on hangers in the open air, or drying room, allowing odor to pass away.

Soap may be used for cleaning in connection with gasolene with good results. One may use a little ammonia with the gasolene and soap. The goods should be well shaken, and pull all folds out straight with the threads of the goods. Velveteen, velvet and corduroy may be cleaned with gasolene, when pile or nap is not much worn.

When cleaning velvet, or any other fabric, the most important part is to have all the dust and dirt removed, by brushing the garment or fabric thoroughly.

To clean a velvet collar that is not too greasy, and the nap not worn off: Wet a piece of woolen cloth or flannel in gasolene and rub lightly, until the grease and dirt is loosened. Then apply more gasolene with a clean woolen cloth, and remove all grease and dirt. Place on hanger in the open air to dry and to evaporate before steaming. When much gasolene is used hang coat so that the collar hangs down, to allow the gasolene to drip out and evaporate, before steaming. Always being careful not to use gasolene near a stove, lighted candle, lamp or gas.

When using gasolene for cleaning purposes, have it in a gasolene or benzine safety can, used for that purpose, which may be had at any hardware store.

To remove old hard paint or tar, apply the cleaning fluid freely and place the sponge cloth over spot and press with the iron, as there is nothing that will loosen paint or tar as well as steam or heat. If one application is not sufficient repeat until loosened, then scrape off; after that use more cleaning fluid to remove any stains that may remain, then rinse in clean water.

To remove ink stains from woolen materials:

Apply cleaning fluid, two or three times, washing spots each time with clean water, and sponge until stain disappears.

HOW TO WASH WOOLENS.

Place four ounces of soap bark in a gallon of water in a kettle on a stove to boil, then add two more gallons of water. Throw this over the goods, that has been placed in another basin for that purpose and rub with the hands. Rinse in warm water, and hang up to dry. Iron on the wrong side when damp, until dry, (this will remove all wrinkles and make goods look like new). This is especially good for worn garments, that are to be cut and made over.

Woolens should be squeezed, and not wrung, and the wrinkles straightened out while drying.

HOW TO WASH BLACK WOOLEN DRESSES.

Have the dress ripped apart, brushed, and all dust and dirt removed from the seams, also all the old stitches. Pour four gallons of water in a pail or basin, adding four ounces of ammonia. Dip each piece of the garment into the liquid, and swash up and down, and squeeze as dry as possible, then hang over a pole, and when almost dry, iron from the wrong side until dry, with an iron not too hot.

Woolen dresses, that are much soiled, may be washed in soap and water, and rinsed out before dipping in the ammonia water, which will improve the color to a great extent.

Any material, such as worsted, and wool garments should be sponged with ammonia and water.

When cleaning with gasolene, benzine or naptha, to remove the odor, the article should be placed as near a steam radiator as possible, or in a drying room heated by steam or otherwise, this removes the odor, the steam heat dries out whatever of the fluid may have remained in the material, and does so without the danger of explosion which makes it impossible to dry a garment cleaned with the above near a lighted stove, lamp, candle or gas.

HOW TO WASH CHAMOIS VESTS.

Wash with white soap and warm water, making a good lather and rubbing well between the hands. Lay flat on a table, and rub with a dry, clean cloth; rinse; then roll in another cloth and wring as dry as possible. Unroll and stretch well; hang up, and when nearly dry press with a warm iron, being careful not to have the iron too hot or it will spoil the chamois.

HOW TO CLEAN SILK.

Use hot gasolene, heated in a double boiler (never put gasolene on a stove) place the gasolene in the double boiler, after it has been removed from the stove and while the water is still boiling, place the silk to be cleaned in the boiler, and swash up and down until it is thoroughly cleaned, then remove and place in the open air to dry and evaporate.

TO CLEAN BLACK SILK.

Brush and wipe with flannel cloth, lay on a table with the side to be worn up; then sponge with hot coffee (strain coffee through muslin before using). When damp, lay cloth on and iron until thoroughly dry.

TO REMOVE GREASE FROM SILK.

Use a lump of magnesia (moistened), rub on the spot and allow to dry; then brush powder off. Repeat if necessary.

Silks and satins should be sponged with ammonia and water. It is not necessary to soak ribbon, unless they are very dirty. Only black material should be cleaned with strong ammonia as a difference in the dye stuffs may cause the material to turn red, wherever the ammonia touches it.

To clean a colored silk dress, mix together four ounces of soap, six ounces of honey, and a pint and a quarter of gin, rub in well with small brush, rinse each piece at once in cold water thoroughly, drain and iron while wet. This is especially good for black, also black and white silks.

Silks may be stiffened by adding two or three lumps of sugar, or half a teaspoonful of gum Arabic to the water. Place over a round pole and while damp place a piece of muslin over the silk and iron until dry.

TO CLEAN BLACK LACE.

To a cup of strong tea, add one-half teaspoonful of gum Arabic. Dip the lace into the liquid, and squeeze it dry, two or three times (do not wring). Roll in a cloth and when almost dry, straighten out all the scallops carefully by hand, being careful to have it of universal width, and place on a soft cloth or padded board and lay a piece of muslin over it, then iron until dry. This is suitable for ordinary lace. But real lace should be pinned or tacked to a board, being careful to draw out all loops of the edge, and not drag the lace out of shape.

All stains and spots should be removed as soon as possible. Ink stains may be taken out of clothing by dipping the spot in milk, and squeezing the blackened milk into a basin, dipping in clear milk again. Repeat this process until the ink stain has entirely disappeared; then wash the cloth in warm water, to remove the fat in the milk.

Some inks are very difficult to remove but with a little patience, one of the processes will remove any ink stain.

To remove grease spots from delicate fabrics, requires great care. When the color and fabric will not be injured, use the cleaning fluid. Otherwise use French chalk or magnesia powder. Place upon the spots, allow to remain for a short time. This will often absorb the grease. If one application is not sufficient, brush off and apply again until the spot disappears.

When water may be used on the cloth, the chalk may be made into a paste and spread on the spot and left until dry then brush off.

When color of a piece of goods has been accidentally or otherwise destroyed by acid. Apply ammonia to neutralize the same after which an application of chloroform will in almost every case restore the spot to its original color.

TO REMOVE STAINS FROM COTTON AND LINEN GOODS.

To remove stains from linen and cotton, wet spots with luke warm water, then squeeze the juice of a lemon over the stain, sprinkle with salt, then place in the sun to hasten bleaching. If one application is not sufficient to remove the stains, repeat until thoroughly cleaned.

To remove scorch from cotton, place in the hot sun until scorch disappears.