Part 20

It is the business of this servant to light the fires in the kitchen range, and under the copper or boilers, and stew-holes—to wash up all the plates and dishes—scour and clean all the sauce-pans, stew-pans, kettles, pots, and all other kitchen utensils; and to take care that all the latter are _always kept clean_, _dry_, and _fit for use_. She is to assist the kitchen-maid in picking, trimming, washing and boiling the vegetables, cleaning the kitchen and offices, the servants’-hall, housekeeper’s room, and steward’s room; and to clean the steps of the front door and the area. She makes the beds for the stable men—and generally fetches, carries, and clears away for the cook and kitchen-maid, and otherwise assists in all the laborious parts of the kitchen business, [Wages from 8 to 12 guineas a year.]

TO CLEAN BLOCK-TIN DISH-COVERS, PEWTER POTS, &c.

Mix a little of the finest whiting, free from sand, with the smallest drop of sweet oil; rub the outside well and wipe it clean, with clean, dry soft linen rags.—Do the same to the inside, but wet with water, not oil:—always wiping these articles dry immediately after using them, and drying them by the fire, prevents their rusting, and saves much trouble in cleaning them.

THE LADY’S MAID.

The business of the lady’s-maid is extremely simple, and but little varied. She is generally to be near the person of her lady; and to be properly qualified for her situation, her education should be superior to that of the ordinary class of females, particularly in needle-work, and the useful and ornamental branches of female acquirements. To be peculiarly neat and clean in her person and dress, is better than to be tawdry or attractive, as intrinsic merit is a much greater recommendation than extrinsic appearance. In her temper she should be cheerful and submissive, studying her lady’s disposition, and conforming to it with alacrity. A soft and courteous demeanour will best entitle her to esteem and respect. In fine, her character should be remarkable for industry and moderation,—her manners and deportment, for modesty and humility—and her dress, for neatness, simplicity, and frugality.

It will be her business to _dress_, _re-dress_, and _undress_ her lady; and, in this, she should learn to be perfectly _au fait_ and expeditious, ever studying, so far as it depends on herself, to manifest good taste, by suiting the ornaments and decoration of her dress to the complexion, habits, age, and general appearance of her person. Thus will she evince her own good sense, best serve her lady, and gratify all those who are most interested in her welfare and happiness. She should always be punctual in her attendance, and assiduous in her attention. Her’s will be the care of her lady’s _wardrobe_, and she should make that her _particular_ care; appropriating to each article of dress its proper place, where it always may be found when wanted. It will be her business carefully to examine every part of her dress, when taken off, and if they have sustained an injury, or acquired any spots or stains, immediately to clean and repair them;[17] then fold them up neatly, and put them away.

Her first business, in the morning, will be to see that the house-maid has made the fire, and properly prepared her lady’s dressing-room:—she then calls her mistress, informs her of the hour, and having laid out all her clothes, and carried her _hot water_, to wash, she retires to her breakfast with the house-keeper and other principal servants. When her lady’s bell rings, she attends her in her dressing-room,—combs her hair for the morning, and waits on her till dressed; after which, she folds and puts away her night-clothes, cleans her combs and brushes, and adjusts her toilet-table:—she then retires to her work-room, to be ready if wanted, and employs herself in making and altering dresses, millinery, &c. About one o’clock the family generally take their lunch, and the servants their dinner.—After this, she is again summoned to attend her lady’s toilet whilst dressing to go abroad. When gone, she again adjusts her clothes, and every thing in the room, and lays out and prepares the several articles that may be required for her dinner, or evening dress, and afterwards employs herself at needle-work in her own room, or in her other avocations, till her mistress returns to dress for dinner, perhaps about five, when she attends her for that purpose; and having done this, it may happen that no further attendance on her mistress’ person will be required till she retires to bed: meanwhile she employs herself at needle-work, as in the morning[18]—or else in the various occupations of getting up the fine linen, gauzes, muslins, cambrics, laces, &c. washing silk stockings, taking the spots or stains out of silks, &c. &c. for doing which the best receipts are annexed.

It is her business to see that the house-maid, or chamber-maid, empties the slops, keeps up the fires, both in this and the bed-room, (if wanted) and keeps the rooms in perfect order.—Previous to her mistress’ retiring for the night, she will have looked out her night-clothes, and aired them well; and she will, not only now, but at all times when she goes to dress, carry up _hot water_, for washing, &c. and when she is gone to bed, she will carefully examine all her clothes, and do all that is necessary to be done to them, before she folds them away. If her lady be elderly, infirm, or unwell, she will sometimes be required to bring her work, and sit with her, to administer her medicines, and sometimes to read to her. To qualify herself for this latter purpose, and to acquit herself with propriety, she will, at her leisure, practise reading aloud, from the best authors; as it is important to acquire a proper style and manner of reading, in all the varieties of poetry or prose, ode or epistle, comedy, or sermon; avoiding, alike, the dull monotony of the school girl, and the formal affectation of the pedant; but following nature as her guide, in all that appertains to emphasis, modulation, and delivery.

If acquainted with the superior branches of needle-work, she might afford her lady much gratification, in presenting her, occasionally, with such trifles as will be acceptable, and suitable ornaments for her person.—This will evince her disposition to be grateful and to oblige; and this, combined with a feminine sweetness of temper, and suavity of manners, cannot fail to be her sure recommendation to the esteem of her superiors and others, through all the various circumstances of life.—Wages, from 18 to 25 guineas per annum, with tea and washing.

As the duties of the lady’s-maid include the personal ornament, dress, and decoration of her mistress, we have availed ourselves of a work recently published, under the title of “_The Art of Beauty_,” and in the subsequent pages have introduced some important receipts and observations from that work; together with various approved receipts on other points of the lady’s-maid’s duty.

ROMAN BALSAM FOR FRECKLES OF THE SKIN.

Take one ounce of bitter almonds, one ounce of barley flour, a sufficient quantity of honey. Beat the whole into a smooth paste, spread it thinly on the skin at night, and wash it off in the morning.

The skin being thus prepared for the chemical remedies, you may select any of the following, or try them in succession.

FRECKLE WASH.

Take one drachm of muriatic acid, half a pint of rain water, half a tea spoonful of spirit of lavender. Mix, and apply it two or three times a day to the freckles, with a bit of linen, or a camel-hair pencil.

PURIFYING WATER FOR THE SKIN.

Take one tea-spoonful of liquor of potass, two ounces and a half of pure water, a few drops of eau de Cologne. Mix, and apply as before.

DR. WITHERING’S COSMETIC LOTION.

Take a tea-cupful of soured milk, cold, scrape into it a quantity of horse-radish. Let this stand from six to twelve hours, and strain, when it may be used to wash the parts affected, twice or thrice a day.

PREVENTIVE WASH FOR SUNBURN.

Take two drachms of borax, one drachm of Roman alum, one drachm of camphor, half an ounce of sugar candy, a pound of ox-gall. Mix, and stir well for ten minutes, or so, and repeat this stirring three or four times a day for a fortnight, till it appears clear and transparent. Strain through blotting paper, and bottle up for use. Wash the face with it every time you go into the sunshine.

GRAPE LOTION FOR SUNBURN.

Dip a bunch of green grapes in a basin of water, and then sprinkle it with alum and salt, powdered and mixed. Wrap it in paper, and bake it under hot ashes. Then express the juice, and wash the face with it, and it will remove sunburn, tan, and freckles.

LEMON CREAM FOR SUNBURN AND FRECKLES.

Put two spoonsful of sweet cream into half a pint of new milk, squeeze into it the juice of a lemon, add half a glass of good brandy, and a little alum, and loaf sugar. Boil the whole, skim it well, and when cool, put it aside for use.

THE WORM PIMPLE WITH BLACK POINTS.

This sort is very common and very annoying to females, from the age of fourteen and upwards, as they give the skin a dirty greasy appearance, which no washing will remove. The vulgar opinion that such pimples are caused by worms or grubs, is quite erroneous. The best means of removing the worm pimple, is by squeezing out all the thickened matter of each; for, unless you do this, it is impossible to get rid of them, as no wash nor other application will remove them, nor will they ever disappear of their own accord. Several things may be useful in preventing their return. Of these, the Roman balsam, is a safe and excellent application, and daily rubbing the parts very gently with a soft glove, or with the warm hand.

THE SMALL RED PIMPLE.

In this species, the pimples appear singly, and are not very numerous, and the intermediate skin is unaffected. They are most liable to appear upon the cheeks, nose, and forehead, though they sometimes spread over the shoulders and upper part of the breast. Gowland’s Lotion, Kalydor, Cold Cream, and all such nostrums, ought to be used with great caution, but prefer the three following.

BATEMAN’S SULPHUR WASH.

Break one ounce of sulphur, and pour over it one quart of boiling water. Allow it to infuse for twelve or fourteen hours, and apply it to the face twice or thrice a day, for a few weeks. It is excellent for removing the roughness of the skin which usually succeeds pimples.

KNIGHTON’S LOTION.

Take half a drachm of liquor of potass, three ounces of spirit of wine. Apply to the pimples with a camel’s-hair pencil. If this be too strong, add one half pure water to it.

DARWIN’S OINTMENT FOR PIMPLES.

Take six drachms of mercury, six grains of flour of sulphur, two ounces of hog’s lard. Mix them carefully in a mortar.

THE LIVID BUTTONY PIMPLE.

The pimples, even when they do not suppurate, but especially while they continue highly red, are always sore and tender to the touch; so that washing, the friction of the clothes, &c. are somewhat painful. In its most severe form, this eruption nearly covers the face, breast, shoulders, and top of the back, but does not extend lower than an ordinary tippet in dress.

Mr. Plumbe recommends the pimples to be pricked with a needle or a lancet, in order to irritate them, and spur them on to suppuration. When this has been accomplished, the matter is to be squeezed out, and if any blueness or hardness remain, sponge the part slightly, three or four times a day, with the following lotion.

Dissolve two grains and a half of oxymuriate of mercury in four ounces of spirit of wine. Keep it in a close-stopped phial for use.

BARDOLPH PIMPLE OR ERUPTION.

A careful examination of the parts, in the earlier stages of the disease, will, in most cases, lead to the detection of small and deep-seated collections of matter, which, upon being let out with a needle, or the point of a lancet, will cause the swelling and redness of the skin to disappear; and, if the fomentations of warm water, and frictions with mild soap and a soft brush be persevered in, along with plain diet, and abstinence from high-seasoned dishes, pickles, cayenne, mustard, and strong liquors, a cure may, in time, be effected.

POMADE FOR REMOVING WRINKLES.

Take two ounces of the juice of onions, the same quantity of the white lily, the same of Narbonne honey, and an ounce of white wax; put the whole into a new earthen pipkin till the wax is melted; take the pipkin off the fire, and, in order to mix the whole well together, keep stirring it with a wooden spatula till it grows quite cold. You will then have an excellent ointment for removing wrinkles. It must be applied at night, on going to bed, and not wiped off till the morning.

LOTION FOR WRINKLES.

Take the second water of barley, and strain it through a piece of fine linen; add a few drops of balm of Mecca; shake the bottle for a considerable time, till the balm is entirely incorporated with the water, when it will assume a somewhat turbid and whitish appearance.

This is an excellent wash for beautifying the face, and preserving the freshness of youth. If used only once a day, it takes away wrinkles, and gives surprising brilliancy to the skin. Before it is applied, the face ought to be washed with rain-water.

PERSPIRATION OF THE HANDS AND FEET.

The temporary removal of disagreeable perspiration in the hands or the feet, may sometimes be useful. The hands may be dipped in cold water, and if rose-water is at hand, it will be still better. Washing the hands with the infusion, or the tincture of galls, or oak bark, into which a little eau de Cologne, or any other perfume, may be put, is an excellent application of the same kind in bad cases. With respect to the feet, dusting them with very fine powder of galls, or of alum, or, what is, perhaps, still better, soaking the stockings with any perfumed soap till they are quite saturated, and then allowing them to dry thoroughly before putting them on, may be safely and effectually tried.

COLOURS IN DRESS.

Females of fair complexion ought to wear the purest white; they should choose light and brilliant colours, such as rose, azure, light yellow, &c. These colours heighten the lustre of their complexion, which if accompanied with darker colours, would frequently have the appearance of alabaster, without life and without expression.

On the contrary, women of a dark complexion, who dress in such colours as we too frequently see them do, cause their skin to appear black, dull, and tanned. They ought, therefore, to avoid wearing linen or laces of too brilliant a white; they ought to avoid white robes, and rose-colour, or light-blue ribbons, which form too disagreeable a contrast with their complexions.

Fair women cannot be too careful to correct, by light colours, the paleness of their complexions; and dark women, by stronger colours, the somewhat yellow tint of their complexion.

Crimson is extremely handsome at night, when it may be substituted for rose-colour, which loses its charms by candle-light; but this crimson, seen by day, spoils the most beautiful complexion; no colour whatever strips it so completely of all its attractions. Pale yellow, on the contrary, is often very handsome by day, and is perfectly suited to people who have a fine complexion; but at night it appears dirty, and tarnishes the lustre of the complexion, to which it is designed to add brilliancy.

Green is the only colour which should be worn as a summer veil.

USE OF PAINTS.

The vegetable substances which furnish rouge, are red sandal-wood, root of orchanet, cochineal, Brazil wood, and especially the bastard saffron, which yields a very beautiful colour, when it is mixed with a sufficient quantity of talc. Some perfumers compose vegetable rouge, for which they take vinegar as the excipient. These reds are liable to injure the beauty of the skin; it is more advisable to mix them with oily or unctuous matter, and to form salves. For this purpose, you may employ balm of Mecca, butter of cacao, spermaceti, oil of bhen, &c.

The red powders, above described, are best put on by a fine camel-hair pencil. The colours in the dishes, wools, and green papers, are commonly laid on by the tip of the little finger, previously wetted.

The Spanish wool, the papers, and the English-made Portuguese dishes, are all made from a moss-like drug, from Turkey, called safflower, well known to scarlet dyers, &c.

WHITE PAINTS.

White paints are extracted from minerals, more or less pernicious, but always corrosive. They affect the eyes, which swell and inflame, and are rendered painful and watery. They change the texture of the skin, on which they produce pimples, and cause rheums; attack the teeth, make them ache, destroy the enamel, and loosen them.

TO MAKE TALC WHITE.

Take a piece of the talc white, known by the name of Briançon chalk; choose it of a pearl grey colour, and rasp it gently with a piece of dog’s skin; after this, sift it through a sieve of very fine silk, and put this powder into a pint of good distilled vinegar, in which leave it for a fortnight, taking care to shake the bottle or pot several times each day, except the last, on which it must not be disturbed; pour off the vinegar, so as to leave the chalk behind in the bottle, into which pour very clean water that has been filtered; throw the whole into a clean pan, and stir the water well with a wooden spatula; let the powder settle again to the bottom; pour the water gently off, and wash the powder six or seven times, taking care always to make use of filtered water. When the powder is as soft and as white as you would wish, dry it in a place where it is not exposed to the dust; sift it through a silken sieve, which will make it still finer. It may be either left in powder, or wetted and formed into cakes, like those sold by the perfumers. One pint of vinegar is sufficient to dissolve a pound of talc.

This white may be used in the same manner as carmine, dipping your finger, or a piece of paper, or what is preferable to either, a hare’s foot, prepared for the purpose in ointment, and putting upon it about a grain of this white, which will not be removed, even by perspiration. If the ointment with which it is applied is properly made, this white does no injury to the face. The same ingredients may be used for making rouge.

COSMETIC JUICE.

Make a hole in a lemon, fill it up with sugar candy, and close it nicely with gold leaf, applied over the rind that was cut out; then roast the lemon in hot ashes. When desirous of using the juice, squeeze out a little through the hole already made, and wash the face with a napkin wetted therewith. This juice is said to cleanse the skin, and brighten the complexion marvellously.

BALSAM FOR CHAPPED LIPS.

Take two tea-spoonsful of clarified honey, and a few drops of lavender-water, or any other agreeable perfume. Mix, and anoint the parts frequently. If the hands are affected, anoint them all over on going to bed, wearing your gloves all night, and wash with tepid milk and water in the morning. A night or two will effect a cure.

Another excellent preparation is,

LADY CONYNGHAM’S LIP-HONEY.

Take two ounces of fine honey, one ounce of purified wax, half an ounce of silver litharge, the same quantity of myrrh. Mix over a slow fire, and add milk of roses, Eau de Cologne, or any other perfume you may prefer, and keep for use.

EXCELLENT TOOTH-BRUSH.

Procure two or three dozen of the fresh roots of marsh-mallows, and dry them carefully in the shade, so that they may not shrivel. They must be chosen about as thick as a cane, and cut to five or six inches long, then with a mallet bruise the ends of them very gently, for about half an inch down, in order to form a brush. Then take two ounces of dragon’s blood, four ounces of highly rectified spirit, and half an ounce of fresh conserve of roses, and put them in a glazed pipkin or pan, to dissolve over a gentle fire. When dissolved, put in your prepared mallow-roots, stirring them to make them take the dye equally. Continue this till no moisture remains in the vessel, when the roots will be hard, dry, and fit for use. If you take care of them, they will last you a considerable time. When you use this toothbrush, it may be dipped in the following:

WASH FOR THE TEETH AND GUMS.

Take the juice of half a lemon, a spoonful of very rough claret or port wine, ten grains of sulphate of quinine, a few drops of Eau de Cologne, or oil of bergamot. Mix, and keep in a well-stopped phial for use.

LOTION FOR TOOTH-ACHE.

Put two drams of camphor into an ounce of the oil of turpentine, and let it dissolve; when it will be fit for use.

Cajeput oil is another valuable remedy for allaying the pain, when put into the hollow of the tooth. The most effectual, however, of all the remedies for destroying the sensibility of the nerve, is the putting of a red hot wire into the hollow, which will destroy the nerve, and prevent the return of the pain.

MUCILAGE FOR TOOTH-ACHE.

Take one dram of the powdered leaves of pyrethrum, and a sufficient quantity of gum arabic mucilage. Make a mass, divide it into twelve portions, and take one into the mouth, and let it lie till dissolved, as occasion requires.

If an external application is preferred, the following may be rubbed on the outside of the jaw.

LINIMENT FOR TOOTH-ACHE.

Take an ounce of spirit of camphor, three drams of liquid ammonia, ten drops of essential oil of bergamot. Mix them in a phial for use.

A blister placed behind the ear, or burning the lap of the ear with a cloth dipped in boiling water, will often remove the pain entirely.

TO PREVENT THE TOOTH-ACHE.

Rub well the teeth and gums with a hard tooth-brush, using the flowers of sulphur as a tooth powder, every night on going to bed; and if it is done after dinner it will be best: this is an excellent preservative to the teeth, and void of any unpleasant smell.

A RADICAL CURE FOR THE TOOTH-ACHE.

Use as a tooth powder the Spanish snuff called Sabella, and it will clean the teeth as well as any other powder, and totally prevent the tooth-ache; and make a regular practice of washing behind the ears with cold water every morning; the remedy is infallible.

REMEDY FOR BAD BREATH.

Take from five to ten drops of muriatic acid, in an ale glassful of barley-water, and add a little lemon juice and lemon peel to flavour. Mix for a draught, to be taken three times a day, for a month or six weeks at least, and, if effectual, it may be continued occasionally.

Another medicine of this kind, which has often proved beneficial when the stomach has been wrong, and the bowels costive, is, the

DRAUGHT FOR BAD BREATH WITH COSTIVENESS.

Take one dram of sulphate of magnesia, two drams of tincture of calumba, an ounce and a half of infusion of roses. Make a draught, to be taken every morning or every other morning, an hour before breakfast, for at least a month.

PALMA CHRISTI OIL FOR THICKENING THE HAIR.

Take an ounce of Palma Christi oil, a sufficient quantity of oil of bergamot or lavender to scent it. Apply it morning and evening for three months, or as long as it may be necessary, to the parts where you want the hair to grow thick and luxuriant.

MACASSAR OIL.