Part 14

Mix together 4 oz. of oil of almonds, ½ an oz. of English oil of lavender, 2 quarts of spirit of wine, and 10 do. of rose-water. Next, blanch 3 lbs. of Jordan almonds, and pound them in a mortar, with a quarter of a lb. of Spanish oil-soap, half an oz. of spermaceti, and half an oz. of white wax. Put these ingredients into a large jar, with two ounces of pearl-ash, dissolved in an ounce of warm water. Shake the whole well, and then pour it into small bottles for sale.

273. CREAM OF ROSES.

Take 1 lb. of oil of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of spermaceti, 1 oz. of white wax, 1 pint of rose-water, and 2 drachms of Malta rose, or nerolet essence. Put the oil, spermaceti, and wax, into a well-glazed pipkin, over a clear fire, and, when melted, pour in the rose-water by degrees, and keep beating, till the compound becomes like pomatum. Now add the essence, and then put the cream into small pots or jars, which must be well covered up with pieces of bladder, and soft skin leather.

274. COLD CREAM POMATUM, FOR THE COMPLEXION.

Take an ounce of oil of sweet almonds, and half a drachm each, of white wax and spermaceti, with a little balm. Melt these ingredients in a glazed pipkin over hot ashes, and pour the solution into a marble mortar; stir it with the pestle until it becomes smooth and cold, then add gradually an ounce of rose or orange-flower water; stir all the mixture till incorporated to resemble cream. This pomatum renders the skin at once supple and smooth. To prevent marks from the small pox, add a little powder of saffron. The gallipot in which it is kept, should have a piece of bladder tied over it.

275. _Another Method._

Take 4 ounces of clear trotter oil, one ounce of oil of jesamine, 2 ounces of spermaceti, and one ounce of white wax, scraped fine. Melt them together very gently, then pour it into a pan, which must be kept by the fire. Now beat it without intermission, till it becomes one consistent very white body: then put to it 3 ounces of rose or orange-flower water, with about a drachm of spirit of ambergris, or other sweet essence.

Beat the mixture well again, until the water and spirit be properly absorbed. This beating will add greatly to the whiteness as well as the flavour, of the cream, which will now be as white as snow; particularly if care is taken that the utensils and ingredients are quite clean.

In winter, all the utensils, &c. must be kept warm, and the process performed in a warm room. Even the rose water must be warmed, previous to mixture, otherwise the cream will congeal into knobs, so as to cause the whole to be melted again.

In summer every thing must be kept cool after the melting and mixing. More wax must likewise be used in summer than in winter.

When put into pots, the cold cream is to be kept very cool: each having honey water poured on the top, in order to improve the flavour.

276. POMADE DIVINE.

Put a pound and a half of clear beef marrow into an earthen pan of fresh water, and change the same for ten days, then steep it in rose water for 24 hours, and drain it in a cloth till dry. Take an ounce of storax, gum benjamin, odoriferous Cypress powder, or of Florence, half an ounce of cinnamon, two drachms of cloves, and two drachms of nutmeg, all finely powdered; mix them with the marrow, then put the ingredients into a three-pint pewter pot, make a paste of the white of egg and flour, and lay it upon a piece of rag, over that, put another piece of linen to cover the top close. Put the pot into a large copper pot with water, and keep it steady that it may not reach to the covering of the pot that holds the marrow. As the water shrinks, add more, for it must boil four hours without ceasing; strain the ointment through a linen cloth into small pots, and when cold cover them up close with bladder and paper. Don’t touch it with anything but silver.

277. PEARL WATER, FOR THE FACE.

Put half a pound of best Spanish oil soap, scraped very fine, into a gallon of boiling water. Stir it well for some time, and let it stand till cold. Add a quart of rectified spirit of wine, and half an ounce of oil of rosemary; stir them again.

This compound liquid, when put up in proper phials, in Italy, is called _tincture of pearls_. It is an excellent cosmetic for removing freckles from the face, and for improving the complexion.

278. ALMOND BLOOM.

Take of Brazil dust, 1 oz. water, 3 pints, isinglass, 6 drachms, cochineal, 2 do. alum, 1 oz. borax, 3 drachms.

279. ALMOND PASTE.

Take of blanched sweet almonds, 1 lb. ———————— bitter do. ½ lb. sugar, 1 lb. Beat up with orange flower water.

280. COMMON ALMOND PASTE.

To make this paste, take six pounds of fresh almonds, which blanch and beat in a stone mortar, with a sufficient quantity of rose-water. Now add a pound of finely drained honey, and mix the whole well together. This paste, which is exceedingly good for the hands, is to be put into small pots for sale.

If this paste gets dry, rub it up on a marble slab, with rose-water. To prevent this dryness, put about half a tea-spoonful of this water on the top of each pot, before tying up.

281. ORANGE POMATUM.

Take 5 pounds of hog’s-lard, 1 pound of mutton suet, 3 ounces of Portugal water, ½ an ounce of essence of bergamot, 4 ounces of yellow wax, and ½ a pound of palm oil. Mix.

282. SOFT POMATUM.

Take 25 pounds of hog’s-lard, 8 pounds of mutton suet, 6 ounces of oil of bergamot, 4 ounces of essence of lemons, ½ an ounce of oil of lavender, and ¼ of an ounce of oil of rosemary. These ingredients are to be combined in the same manner as those for the hard pomatum. This pomatum is to be put up in pots, in the usual way.

283. COMMON POMATUM.

Take 4 pounds of fresh and white mutton suet skinned and shredded very fine; which melt in about two quarts of spring water; and whilst hot, put the whole into a well-glazed earthen pan, small at bottom, and wide at the top. Let it stand until the fat is quite cold, and all the impurities fall to the bottom, which carefully scrape off.

Now break the fat into small pieces, which put into a pan, with 2 gallons of spring water, for a whole day; stir and wash often. Next day change the water, and when poured off a second time, at the end of twenty-four hours, dry the fat by rubbing in a clean linen cloth.

Now put the suet with 1½ pound of fresh hog’s-lard, into a large pan, and melt the whole over a gentle fire. When properly combined, put the whole into an earthen pan, and beat it with a wooden spatula, until cold.

Whilst beating, add 6 drachms of essence of lemon, and 30 drops of oil of cloves, previously mixed together. Now continue beating, until the mixture be perfectly white, and afterwards put it up into small pots.

Leave the pots open until the pomatum is quite cold; when cover them by pieces of bladder, &c. In summer, use more suet, and mix in a cool place:—in winter use more hog’s-lard, and make the pomatum in a warm room.

284. HARD POMATUM.

Take 30 pounds of suet, 1½ pounds of white wax, 6 ounces of essence of bergamot, 4 ounces of lemon, 1 oz. of lavender, 4 drachms of oil of rosemary, and 2 drachms of essence of ambergris. Shred and pick the suet clean, and melt in an earthen pan or pipkin. Then stir it well and strain; and when nearly cold, add the perfumes, stirring well as before; when properly mixed, pour it into tin moulds.

285. _Another Method._

Take 6 ounces of common pomatum, and add to it 3 ounces of white virgin wax, scraped fine. Melt them in an earthen pan, immersed in a larger one, containing boiling water; both being placed over a clear and steady fire. When properly incorporated, keep stirring, until it is nearly cold; then put it into small pots, or make it up into small rolls. Perfume it according to taste.

286. ROSEMARY POMATUM.

Strip a large double handful of rosemary; boil it in a tin or copper vessel, with half a pound of common soft pomatum, till it comes to about 3 or 4 ounces; strain it off, and keep it in the usual way.

287. PEARL POWDER, FOR THE FACE.

There are several sorts: the finest is made from _real pearls_, and is the least hurtful to the skin. It gives the most beautiful appearance, but is too dear for common use; still the perfumer ought never to be without it, for the use of the curious and the rich.

288. BISMUTH PEARL POWDER.

The next best pearl powder is made as follows:—

Take 4 ounces of the best magistery of bismuth, 2 ounces of fine starch powder. Mix them well together, and put them into a subsiding glass, wide at top and narrow at bottom; pour over them a pint and a half of proof spirit, and shake them well; let them remain a day or two. When the powder falls to the bottom, pour off the spirit, leaving it dry; then place the glass in the sun, to evaporate the moisture.

Next turn out the white mass, the dirty parts of which form the top, whilst the pure ingredients remain at the bottom. If there be any dirty particles, scrape them off, and again pulverize the remaining part of the cake, and pour more proof spirit over it. Proceed as before; and, if there be any moisture remaining, place the cone on a large piece of smooth chalk, to absorb its moisture.

Cover the whole with a bell-glass, to preserve it from dust, and set it in the sun to dry and whiten it. Next grind the mass with a muller on a marble stone, and keep the powder in a glass bottle, secured, by a ground stopper, from air.

289. ORANGE FLOWER PASTE, FOR THE HANDS.

Blanch 5 or 6 pounds of bitter almonds, by boiling in water, and then beat them very fine in a marble mortar, with 2 pounds of orange flowers. If the paste be too oily, add to it some bean flour, finely sifted, but let no water enter the composition.

This paste is made abroad, but comes here very damaged, the sea-air destroying its properties.

290. CORAL TOOTH POWDER.

Take 4 ounces of coral, reduced to an impalpable powder, 8 ounces of very light Armenian bole, 1 ounce of Portugal snuff, 1 ounce of Havannah snuff, 1 ounce of good burnt tobacco ashes, and 1 ounce of gum myrrh, well pulverized. Mix them together, and sift them twice.

291. A GOOD TOOTH POWDER.

To make a good tooth-powder, leave out the coral, and in its place put in pieces of brown stone-ware, reduced to a very fine powder. This is the common way of making it.

292. AN ASTRINGENT FOR THE TEETH.

Take of fresh conserve of roses, 2 ounces, the juice of half a sour lemon, a little very rough claret, and 6 ounces of coral tooth-powder. Make them into a paste, which put into small pots; and, if it dry by standing, moisten with lemon juice and wine, as before.

293. TO CLEAN THE TEETH.

Take of good soft water, 1 quart, juice of lemon, 2 ounces, burnt alum, 6 grains, common salt, 6 grains. Mix. Boil them a minute in a cup, then strain and bottle for use: rub the teeth with a small bit of sponge tied to a stick, once a week.

294. TO MAKE THE TEETH WHITE.

A mixture of honey with the purest charcoal will prove an admirable cleanser.

295. AN EXCELLENT OPIATE FOR THE TEETH.

Well boil and skim 1 pound of honey; add to it a quarter of a pound of bole ammoniac, 1 oz. of dragon’s blood, 1 of oil of sweet almonds, ½ an ounce of oil of cloves, 8 drops of essence of bergamot, a gill of honey water, all mixed well together, and put into pots for use.

296. VEGETABLE TOOTH-BRUSHES.

Take marine marsh-mallow roots, cut them into lengths of 5 or 6 inches, and of the thickness of a middling rattan cane. Dry them in the shade, but not so as to make them shrivel.

Next finely pulverize two ounces of good dragon’s blood, put it into a flat-bottomed glazed pan, with four ounces of highly rectified spirit, and half an ounce of fresh conserve of roses. Set it over a gentle charcoal fire, and stir it until the dragon’s blood is dissolved; then put in about thirty of the marsh-mallow sticks; stir them about, and carefully turn them, that all parts may absorb the dye alike. Continue this until the bottom of the pan be quite dry, and shake and stir it over the fire, until the sticks are perfectly dry and hard.

Both ends of each root or stick should, previous to immersion in the pan, be bruised gently by a hammer, for half an inch downwards, so as to open its fibres, and thereby form a brush.

They are generally used by dipping one of the ends in the powder or opiate, and then, by rubbing them against the teeth, which they cleanse and whiten admirably.

297. _Other Vegetable Tooth Brushes._

There are several cheap sorts of these tooth-brushes which are made in the same manner, except that, as a basis, rattan cane, or even common deal, cut round, is used instead of the marsh-mallow roots.

298. ROSE LIP-SALVE.

Put 8 ounces of the best olive oil into a wide-mouthed bottle, add two ounces of the small parts of alkanet-root.

Stop up the bottle, and set it in the sun; shake it often, until it be of a beautiful crimson. Now strain the oil off very clear from the roots, and add to it, in a glazed pipkin, three ounces of very fine white wax, and the same quantity of fresh clean mutton suet. Deer-suet is too brittle, and also apt to turn yellow.

Melt this by a slow fire, and perfume it when taken off, with forty drops of oil of rhodium, or of lavender. When cold, put it into small gallipots, or rather whilst in a liquid state.

The common way is to make this salve up into small cakes; in that form the colour is very apt to be impaired.

This salve never fails to cure chopped or sore lips, if applied pretty freely at bed-time, in the course of a day or two at farthest.

299. _Another Method._

Beat the alkanet-root in a mortar, until its fibres are properly bruised; then tie it up in a piece of clean linen rag, and put this in a clear pipkin with the oil. When the oil has begun to boil, it will be found of a deep red. The bag is now to be taken out, pressed and thrown away, and then the other ingredients are to be added as above.

300. WHITE LIP-SALVE.

This may be made as above, except in the use of alkanet root, which is to be left out. Though called lip-salve, this composition is seldom applied to the lips; its principal use consisting in curing sore nipples, for which it is an excellent remedy.

301. TO SWEETEN THE BREATH.

Take two ounces of Terra Japonica, half an ounce of sugar candy, both in powder. Grind one drachm of the best ambergris with ten grains of pure musk; and dissolve a quarter of an ounce of clean gum tragacanth in two ounces of orange-flower water. Mix all together, so as to form a paste, which roll into pieces of the thickness of a straw. Cut these into pieces, and lay them in clean paper. This is an excellent perfume for those whose breath is disagreeable.

302. TO PERFUME CLOTHES.

Take of oven-dried best cloves, cedar and rhubarb wood, each one ounce, beat them to a powder, and sprinkle them in a box or chest, where they will create a most beautiful scent, and preserve the apparel against moths.

303. PERFUMED BAGS FOR DRAWERS.

Cut, slice, and mix well together, in the state of very gross powder, the following ingredients: 2 oz. of yellow saunders, 2 oz. of coriander seeds, 2 oz. of orris root, 2 oz. of calamus aromaticus, 2 oz. of cloves, 2 oz. of cinnamon bark, 2 oz. of dried rose leaves, 2 oz. of lavender flowers, and 1 lb. of oak shavings. When properly mixed, stuff the above into small linen bags, which place in drawers, wardrobes, &c., which are musty, or liable to become so.

304. EXCELLENT PERFUME FOR GLOVES.

Take of ambergris one drachm, civet the like quantity; add flour-butter a quarter of an ounce; and with these well mixed, rub the gloves over gently with fine cotton wool, and press the perfume into them.

305. _Another._

Take of damask or rose scent, half an ounce, the spirit of cloves and mace, each a drachm; frankincense, a quarter of an ounce. Mix them together, and lay them in papers, and when hard, press the gloves; they will take the scent in 24 hours, and hardly ever lose it.

306. TINCTURE OF MUSK.

This excellent spirit requires 6 drachms of China musk, 20 grains of civet, and 2 drachms of red rose buds. Reduce these ingredients to powder with loaf-sugar, and pour over them three pints of spirit of wine.

307. A PERFUME TO PREVENT PESTILENTIAL AIRS, &C.

Take of benjamin, storax, and galbanum, each half an ounce, temper them, being bruised into powder, with the oil of myrrh, and burn them in a chafing-dish, or else take rosemary, balm, and bay leaves; heat them in wine and sugar, and let the moisture be consumed; likewise burn them by the heat of the pan, and they will produce a very fine scent.

308. PASTILS FOR PERFUMING SICK ROOMS.

Powder separately the following ingredients, and then mix, on a marble slab, 1 lb. of gum benzoin, 8 oz. of gum storax, 1 lb. of frankincense, and 2 lbs. of fine charcoal. Add to this composition the following liquids: 6 oz. of tincture of benzoin, 2 oz. of essence of ambergris, 1 oz. of essence of musk, 2 oz. of almond oil, and 4 oz. of clear syrup. Mix the whole into a stiff paste, and form into pastils, of a conical shape, which dry in the heat of the sun. If more liquid should be required for the paste, add warm water.

309. AROMATIC PASTILS.

Beat and sift fine a pound of the four gums left after the making of honey-water, one pound also of the ingredients left from the spirit of Benjamin, one pound of the best sealing-wax, and one pound of genuine gum benzoin.

Dissolve some clear common gum arabic in a quantity of rose-water, of a pretty thick consistency, and add to it sixty drops of spirit of musk.

Mix the whole together, so as to make a pretty stiff paste, which make up into small cones or balls. Dry them thoroughly before they are put away, otherwise they will become mouldy.

These pastils are particularly useful for burning in rooms, where the sick or the dead have lain. They are used in very considerable quantities in the two Houses of Lords and Commons; also in various halls, assembly-rooms, &c.

310. HAIR POWDER PERFUME.

Take half a pound of pulvil powder, made from apple-tree moss, half an ounce of grey ambergris, thirty grains of musk, and twenty grains of civet.

Grind the musk and civet with loaf sugar, to a very fine powder; melt the ambergris, with 6 drops of the oil of behn nuts, over a gentle fire, in a clean vessel, not brass or copper; add, as it melts, a few drops of the juice of green lemon, and about 4 drops each of oil of rhodium and lavender.

When the ambergris is melted, put the above powder into it, stir and mix it well. Add, by degrees, the powder of apple-moss; and when the whole is combined, pulverize and sift it through a very fine hair sieve; what will not pass through, return into the mortar, again pound it with loaf-sugar, until the whole is reduced to fine powder.

311. AMBERGRIS PERFUME.

Melt 2 penny-weights of fine ambergris, in a brass mortar, very gently, stir in quickly, 8 drops of green lemon juice, and the same of behn-nut oil.

Add, ready powdered with fine loaf-sugar, 12 grains of musk, 12 grains of civet, and 24 grains of residuum from the making of spirit of ambergris.

Add 1 ounce of spirit of ambergris—mix and incorporate them well, and add 16 pounds of fine dry hair-powder. Pass the whole, twice, through a fine hair sieve; then lay it open for three days, in a dry room, stir it often, that the spirit may entirely evaporate, otherwise it may turn sour, which, however, will go off by keeping. Bottle and stop it close.

312. MUSK AND CIVET PERFUMES.

Take 2 penny-weights of pure musk, 12 grains of civet, and 1 penny-weight of the residuum of spirit of ambergris. Make this into a paste, with 2 ounces of spirit of musk, made by infusion. Powder it with loaf-sugar and mix in 16 pounds of fine hair powder.

313. ORRIS PERFUME.

Take best dried and scraped orris roots, free from mould. Bruise or grind them: the latter is best, as, being very tough, they require great labour to pound. Sift the powder through a fine hair sieve, and put the remainder in a baker’s oven, to dry the mixture. A violent heat will turn the roots yellow.

When dry, grind again, and sift; and repeat the same until the whole has passed through the sieve; mix nothing with it, as it would mould and spoil it.

314. VIOLET PERFUME.

Drop twelve drops of genuine oil of rhodium on a lump of loaf-sugar; grind this well in a glass mortar, and mix it thoroughly with three pounds of orris powder. This will, in its perfume, have a resemblance to a well-flavoured violet. If you add more rhodium oil, a rose perfume, instead of a violet one, will be produced; the orris powder is a most agreeable perfume, and only requiring to be raised by the addition of the above quantity of the oil.

Keep this perfume in the same manner as the others. What is sold at the druggist’s shops is generally adulterated.

315. ROSE PERFUME.

Take two pecks of fresh, dry damask rose-leaves; strip them from their leaves and stalks; have ready 16 pounds of fine hair-powder. Strew a layer of rose-leaves, on sheets of paper, at the bottom of a box, cover them over with a layer of hair-powder; then strew alternately a layer of roses and powder, until the whole of each has been used.

When they have lain 24 hours, sift the powder out, and expose it to the air 24 hours more. Stir it often. Add fresh rose-leaves, twice, as before, and proceed in the same way; after this dry the powder well by a gentle heat, and pass it through a fine sieve. Lastly, pour ten drops of oil of rhodium, or three drops of otto of roses, on loaf-sugar, which triturate in a glass mortar, and stir well into the powder, which put into a box, or glass, for use. This hair-powder perfume will be excellent, and will keep well.

316. BERGAMOT PERFUME.

Take sixteen pounds of hair powder, and forty drops of Roman oil of bergamot, and proceed in all respects as before, but do not leave the compound exposed to the air; for in this case the bergamot is so volatile that it will quickly fly off.

317. AMBERGRIS HAIR-POWDER.

Take twelve pounds of fine starch-powder, add three pounds of the ambergris perfume: mix them well together, and run it twice through a fine hair sieve. Put it into a well closed box, or glass, for use.

This is the first and best sort of ambergris powder: but for a second, or inferior sort, put only a pound and a half of the perfume, to the above quantity of starch-powder.

318. MUSK AND CIVET HAIR-POWDER.

Mix twelve pounds of starch-powder, and three pounds of musk perfume, as before. A second sort of this hair-powder may be made by using half the quantity of perfume.

319. VIOLET HAIR-POWDER.

Mix twelve pounds of hair-powder with three pounds of the violet perfume, and lay it by for use.

320. ROSE HAIR-POWDER.

Mix well twelve pounds of starch powder, with three pounds of the rose perfume. Sift; put it up in a cedar box, or glass bottle.

321. _Another._